That is fantastic!! Yeah, it's been working perfectly ever since I first did it and I love it because I can easily adjust the stretch simply by adjusting where the collar is locked on the horizontal rod.
Mine didn't work properly however, after I blew out the dirt from the actuators / rubber boots, and lubed with silicone spray, they have worked perfectly ever since. Very good video, Thanks.
Thank you very much! Yeah, I tried everything.. I had brand new actuators but still they wouldn't last all that long... To this day, these new door locks using that idea is STILL rock solid in it's powerful OPEN/CLOSE! LOVE IT!!!! Also I like it because I can't EASILY adjust it more or less.
My driver's side door lock began doing this last year. In the 36 years I've owned my IROC, the only thing that I had to replace (twice) was the rear hatch pulldown motor assembly.
I've had my camaro since 1998 (32 years). I keep all my receipts and do recall when I first got the car there were many electrical issues... Windows motor replaced nearly every year for like 3 years, door actuators probably 3 times. Soon as I changed the actuator to this new system, I've not had a single power door lock issue.
As far as the door clips are concerned I had luck at the junk yard. When I go I stock up on clips and all those hard to find screws not only for door panel cluster but also for the radio , instrumentation panels and on top of the air intake manifold. Those torx screws are a mother to find. Dealer couldn't even tell me what size they were... what a bunch of nuts. Thanks for video. I thought I was having issues with the relay on my door locks. But right now both sides are weak as hell. Have to hit them 3 or 4 times to open and to close from both sides as well.
Yeah for YEARS I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Took it into multiple shops and each time they just changed the relay or actuator and a few months later I would discover my power locked, especially the passenger, didn't actually lock.. so I found if I accidentally hit the unlock button remotely, I would need to go to the car to ensure when I hit lock that it fully locked... was so aggravating and since this change, I've not had a single issue since!! 😀
That is awesome to hear! I was dealing with this issue for YEARS and really couldn't believe how easy and so far how it's been a 100% cure for my door lock issue. Not had a single issue since so I'm happy to see that it's worked and helped another person.
Thanks for the comment. Yeah I did these years ago (didn't compile the video till later on) and i've not had a single issue since! What's great about this way is that if you feel it's not working as strong, you can EASILY adjust the collar and the position of the rods so that it extends more or less.. I dealt with this issue with my door for YEARS.. Took it to countless repair shops and NO one could figure it out.. I'd pay like $200-$400 to buy new lock actuators because each shop would say they were weak, or had a weak signal, or bent, or defective, or relay was defective... replaced them all and all were just GUESSES... This way has been amazing! And al I am happy to see that it's working for other people! :-)
@@thecamarogarage everyone I show says it's brilliant. I laid them on the back of the panel, covered them in duct tape to keep I place, and then the panel goes right.
The headlamps on the car are from Octane Lighting, and the Headlight LED's are Motormoto 2 Stroke 3.0. I have done UNBOXING, REVIEW, and INSTALALLATION VIDEOS for both but need to compile them. Stay tuned for those :-)
Hello. Actually the Mechanism that mechanically locks/unlocks the door is an actuator not a solenoid. A solenoid is an electromagnet. Both the OEM Actuator (A motor with gears that operators the actuator arm) and the Universal Door Lock Actuator that I installed here are similar to a point. Both are mechanical motors but different in how I mounted the universal. Rather than running the OEM door Actuator VERTICAL and attaching to a 90degree bent hinge to pivot on and then attach to the HORIZONTAL rod that leads to the inner door lock knob as well as the actual Door lock mechanism. The issue I found is that there is flex of not only the door panel sheet metal, but the pivoting arm reduces some of the power that comes from the actuator. Mounting it (the universal) HORIZONTALLY which connects DIRECTLY to the rod by passes the flex and the distance. This has been a 100% fix for my weak doors which were getting worse year by year. Plus you can adjust the stretch of the push/pull simply by changing either the angle of the custom bent rod attached to it, or the slider itself.
While I appreciate the offer, I honestly don't have the extra time. It's really not hard to do. Just follow my video and you shouldn't have an issue. The actuator kit you could get on Amazon Canada www.amazon.ca/Install-Essentials-524N-Power-Motor/dp/B0009SWLE6
Finally someone notice this issue after so many years. Thanks alot for pointing this out.
Thanks very much. Mine is still working strong! :-) Be sure to share it abroad ;-)
Great suggestion. Just did it on my 89 IROC and they work great.
That is fantastic!! Yeah, it's been working perfectly ever since I first did it and I love it because I can easily adjust the stretch simply by adjusting where the collar is locked on the horizontal rod.
Mine didn't work properly however, after I blew out the dirt from the actuators / rubber boots, and lubed with silicone spray, they have worked perfectly ever since. Very good video, Thanks.
Thank you very much! Yeah, I tried everything.. I had brand new actuators but still they wouldn't last all that long... To this day, these new door locks using that idea is STILL rock solid in it's powerful OPEN/CLOSE! LOVE IT!!!!
Also I like it because I can't EASILY adjust it more or less.
My driver's side door lock began doing this last year. In the 36 years I've owned my IROC, the only thing that I had to replace (twice) was the rear hatch pulldown motor assembly.
I've had my camaro since 1998 (32 years). I keep all my receipts and do recall when I first got the car there were many electrical issues... Windows motor replaced nearly every year for like 3 years, door actuators probably 3 times. Soon as I changed the actuator to this new system, I've not had a single power door lock issue.
As far as the door clips are concerned I had luck at the junk yard. When I go I stock up on clips and all those hard to find screws not only for door panel cluster but also for the radio , instrumentation panels and on top of the air intake manifold. Those torx screws are a mother to find. Dealer couldn't even tell me what size they were... what a bunch of nuts. Thanks for video. I thought I was having issues with the relay on my door locks. But right now both sides are weak as hell. Have to hit them 3 or 4 times to open and to close from both sides as well.
Yeah for YEARS I couldn't figure out what was wrong. Took it into multiple shops and each time they just changed the relay or actuator and a few months later I would discover my power locked, especially the passenger, didn't actually lock.. so I found if I accidentally hit the unlock button remotely, I would need to go to the car to ensure when I hit lock that it fully locked... was so aggravating and since this change, I've not had a single issue since!! 😀
I just bought an iroc and the locks are weak. I searched for a solution and your video was it! Thanks for making it easy!
That is awesome to hear! I was dealing with this issue for YEARS and really couldn't believe how easy and so far how it's been a 100% cure for my door lock issue. Not had a single issue since so I'm happy to see that it's worked and helped another person.
Great video! Just the kind of mod that make life easier for third gen Camaro owners. Thanks and keep on doing what you do!
Thank you so much for your kind words :-)
Definitely going to do this on my firebird, I have to hit the lock switch multiple times before it actually locks/unlocks
Thanks for the comment. Yeah I did these years ago (didn't compile the video till later on) and i've not had a single issue since! What's great about this way is that if you feel it's not working as strong, you can EASILY adjust the collar and the position of the rods so that it extends more or less..
I dealt with this issue with my door for YEARS.. Took it to countless repair shops and NO one could figure it out.. I'd pay like $200-$400 to buy new lock actuators because each shop would say they were weak, or had a weak signal, or bent, or defective, or relay was defective... replaced them all and all were just GUESSES... This way has been amazing! And al I am happy to see that it's working for other people! :-)
Cool video.
Glad you enjoyed it
Get rid of those stupid plastic pins holding the panel on. I used magnets on mine. They stay in place just as well and make removal a breeze.
That's an interesting idea.
@@thecamarogarage everyone I show says it's brilliant. I laid them on the back of the panel, covered them in duct tape to keep I place, and then the panel goes right.
@@RonSavage01BRILLIANT
I got rid of my plastic pins as well. Now I use velcro (with the adhesive backing). Using magnets is a good idea too though.
Yeah, I've had a few people suggest using magnets. Could be something to try sometime... :-)
what headlights do you have in your car?
The headlamps on the car are from Octane Lighting, and the Headlight LED's are Motormoto 2 Stroke 3.0.
I have done UNBOXING, REVIEW, and INSTALALLATION VIDEOS for both but need to compile them. Stay tuned for those :-)
Nice video. What did you use to lubricate the door moving parts? Thanks.
I used mayonnaise. Lol kidding 🤣 no, it was a white lithium grease in an aerosol can.
@@thecamarogarage I have some put mine is squeeze tube so more difficult. I thought so. I will have to remember when I open my door cards.
What did you use to keep the plastic moisture barrier back on?
I don't actually have the barrier anymore... That was removed many years ago.
that's a much more modern actuator. The OEM is just a solenoid. These are motor driven it i am correct.
Hello. Actually the Mechanism that mechanically locks/unlocks the door is an actuator not a solenoid. A solenoid is an electromagnet.
Both the OEM Actuator (A motor with gears that operators the actuator arm) and the Universal Door Lock Actuator that I installed here are similar to a point. Both are mechanical motors but different in how I mounted the universal. Rather than running the OEM door Actuator VERTICAL and attaching to a 90degree bent hinge to pivot on and then attach to the HORIZONTAL rod that leads to the inner door lock knob as well as the actual Door lock mechanism.
The issue I found is that there is flex of not only the door panel sheet metal, but the pivoting arm reduces some of the power that comes from the actuator.
Mounting it (the universal) HORIZONTALLY which connects DIRECTLY to the rod by passes the flex and the distance.
This has been a 100% fix for my weak doors which were getting worse year by year. Plus you can adjust the stretch of the push/pull simply by changing either the angle of the custom bent rod attached to it, or the slider itself.
Nice video are you in the Vancouver Bc area? If so how much would you charge to do Mines
While I appreciate the offer, I honestly don't have the extra time. It's really not hard to do.
Just follow my video and you shouldn't have an issue. The actuator kit you could get on Amazon Canada
www.amazon.ca/Install-Essentials-524N-Power-Motor/dp/B0009SWLE6
Sounds gd buddy I will give it a try I live in surrey bc if I have any issues I will let you know. And nice car buddy looks great 👍
Sounds good! :-)
Why not buy a gm pig tail for the door locks so you can plug everything in?
Im not sure what you mean ?
Link to actuator kit?
It can be purchased on Ebay or even Amazon: www.amazon.ca/Install-Essentials-524N-Power-Motor/dp/B0009SWLE6