Great info, if there are several glow plug codes popping on scan tool. Will truck still start? If we spray starting fluid in air cleaner, truck starts right up.
They’ll usually start with 2-3 glow plugs dead. Fire maker in a can could mask even a small hpop leak as well. Got to look at data, icp,ficm voltage,sync, fuel supply etc during a crank no start.
I found the best way to check I there is a under valve cover leak is when u pull the icp sensor out before cranking the oil in the rail will be below the hole.
Wow I wish I had one of those scanners. So i purchased a 04 6.0 had to replace starter and batteries to get a crank then no start I started with Ipr no change then I replaced hpop with tube no start then Icp and pig tail I was able to start it but then dies shortly After I’ll be replacing Ficm module. Just want to see what your thoughts are? Haven’t done Icp pressure test yet.
Nope, no need, pull bedplate and lift crankshaft enough to slide cam gear past adapter. You can also replace the bedplate seals. You can get all of your specs @ AllDATA DYI for cheap. You can lift crank with a floor crane, just keep an eye on piston to cooling jet clearances. I’ve replaced cranks for bad tone rings and camshafts many times this way.
I would lay it in the block and put a dial indicator on the seal surface, also check it at the flexplate side. Bolts should torque to around 65-70 ft lbs
Good video buddy
Love my x431 have a autel as a backup but only really use that one when I’m dealing with tpms sensors.
I just updated the launch last week, been using and loving the hell out of it since.
Great info, if there are several glow plug codes popping on scan tool. Will truck still start? If we spray starting fluid in air cleaner, truck starts right up.
They’ll usually start with 2-3 glow plugs dead. Fire maker in a can could mask even a small hpop leak as well. Got to look at data, icp,ficm voltage,sync, fuel supply etc during a crank no start.
I found the best way to check I there is a under valve cover leak is when u pull the icp sensor out before cranking the oil in the rail will be below the hole.
Wow I wish I had one of those scanners. So i purchased a 04 6.0 had to replace starter and batteries to get a crank then no start I started with Ipr no change then I replaced hpop with tube no start then Icp and pig tail I was able to start it but then dies shortly After I’ll be replacing Ficm module. Just want to see what your thoughts are? Haven’t done Icp pressure test yet.
Bad injectors will cause it to stall shortly after cranking. i have went through that before.
Have you ever removed a rear crank flange? I need to replace a cam & lifters and don't really want to take the crank out.
Its a 2010 6.0
Nope, no need, pull bedplate and lift crankshaft enough to slide cam gear past adapter. You can also replace the bedplate seals. You can get all of your specs @ AllDATA DYI for cheap. You can lift crank with a floor crane, just keep an eye on piston to cooling jet clearances. I’ve replaced cranks for bad tone rings and camshafts many times this way.
@@northwestlighttruckservice278 but can you remove & reinstall without issues? I mean installing it in exactly the same position of course.
I would lay it in the block and put a dial indicator on the seal surface, also check it at the flexplate side. Bolts should torque to around 65-70 ft lbs
@@northwestlighttruckservice278 I’ll put an indicator on it before I take it off. Bed plate is dry. I don’t wanna take all the rod caps off either.