not sure if you've tried, but I fill the oil rail with a syringe by removing the small plug in the top of the rail. Takes a little time, but fires up first crank. Great content!!
2004 early style HPOP Suspect HPOP failing 165k miles, original HPOP Long crank cold and long crank hot. New FoMoCo standpipes and dummy plugs IPR test good, screen clean, went ahead and Replaced screen anyways Oil psi gauge goes to zero when the oil gets warm, oil Guage swings to normal any rpm above idle Filter removed low psi pump fills oil resevoir relatively quickly. Checkked the shuttle valve and spring on the bottom side they are good Next test is shop air at IPR port
I have a 2005 6.0 had a hot not start and eventually became a stall when hot(I assume that's what it's called died after getting real warm) tested it and could tell it was leaking driver side standpipe where it goes into the long tube. After opening the system and waiting a week or 2 it started getting some air out of # 4 or 6 injector. Only leaks really bad when I crank the air to about 100 psi but under 75 doesn't seem like it does at all. Should I go ahead and replace orings in nipple cups or what would you do. Oh yeah and new o rings in injectors about 2 months before this happend at a reputable shop. Sorry about the long comment but I sure do appreciate your time and as always a great video!
So, I get this question alot “it’s leaking air from the top injector oring or nipple cup”. So often times you will have some air leak from the upper injector seal, I stress “some”. If it’s just seeping air or you a a small amount of oil gurgling your more than likely good. If it’s leaking so bad that as soon as you shut the air valve off all the air is gone from within the system you have a problem. It’s acceptable if your turn off the air and it’s holding enough that you hear the air leak for another 20-30 secs after shutting it off. It’s hard to explain what “acceptable” I’ve kinda just learned to trust my ears. Hope that helps some.
OK, so I will defenitely be installing them on this tear down, I still have NOT pressure checked the rails, but very sure the nipple cups and injector o-rings moved or are leaking on the passenger side. Since I removed that side rail to fit or to remove the OLD standpipe. So, with that being said, got P/N's for NEW o-rings and back seals on the standpipes and dummy plugs?
OK, YES, I have the OEM "upgraded" standpipes and dummy plugs from FORD. What I am looking to get is the "NEW" seals and o-rings for them? Thought you might have some part numbers.
@@AutomedicGarage OK, so I finally got my tools and did a pressure check through the IPR port. Thank GOD, only found a torn screen on the IPR with chewed up o-ring and back ring. Pressure check was good and solid. Thanx again for the videos!!
@AutomedicGarage thank you! I'm also dealing with another issue. When I start my truck and drive I have full power for a short period of time, from a minute to 5. Boost goes above 20 psi and can go to higher rpm. Then I loose some power and boost is below 20 psi and barely goes up to 3500 rpm. If I turn off my truck and turn it back on, full power again. My speedometer doesn't work yet but I don't think that should do anything with it. Truck was stolen so some wires are cut and ignition is still busted. I think I had full power when I got the truck back but not sure now. It just feels like if it's getting flooded. Hopefully that makes sense.
The idea behind their design is when and if you develop a leak, and they all will leak some at some point, it prevents the high pressure oil from eroding the upper injector oring seal which will end up cause a crank no start hot or even a crank no start once it’s totally gone. I like them, they are pricey but I like the idea.
I have 2003 6.0 and starts right up, then once the oil get up to temp it shuts off like you turned the key off. Then once it cools off after hour or 2 so it will start. Thinking hpop? Your video is great!
I enjoy your videos, thank you. What is the scanning tool that you are using ? I am full timing in a 2007 6.0 power stroke . Earth roamer I am handy, but I am not a mechanic. I need something that is intuitive. That can get me out of trouble. needs to do data, logging and reading and clearing codes. any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Autoenginuity with enhanced ford, GM and Chrysler package. Only thing it doesn’t do well on the 6.0s is power balance graph. I’ve been told by autoenginuity that it has to do with the FICM
I had pretty much the same issue including the leaking injector when air testing after replacing the standpipe and dummy plug (passenger side). I have read a couple of posts that said not to take much stock in air testing immediately afterward since there’s no oil pressure to seat the o-rings. Have you had any experience with that happening? Where maybe it leaks with the air test but doesn’t bleed off the oil pressure? I’m going to go ahead and order the injector seals but I am gonna put it back together and see what happens.
I think I mentioned that in this video, if not it was another 6.0 video but yes. The system is designed to seal and hold oil pressure. Often times you will get bubbling or gurgling at the upper injector oring. Minimal is acceptable if it excessive then replace. Also sometimes the upper seal can be mistaken for a nipple cup oring leaking because it shoots the oil/air directly down at the upper injector seal. Hot that helps some.
@@AutomedicGarage Yes sir thank you for the reply! Pretty sure that’s the first time I’ve ever asked a question on UA-cam since it’s seems most questions I read in the comments never get an answer (on other channels). You’ve given me some hope at least. Unless it was something I damaged when putting the oil rail back in place then I’m hoping it’s just the air getting by with no oil pressure. When I initially did the air test it wasn’t leaking in that spot. Although…I suppose it’s possible that since my main issue was a split o-ring on the lower section of the standpipe maybe it wasn’t allowing enough air pressure to get to the front injector to be noticed during the test and only showed itself after installing the new standpipe.
@@jgp9290 if you had a torn oring on the standpipe and it’s a 04.5-07 then I’d almost guarantee that was it. If it was a early 6.0 then it could be the injector seal or bad pump or a bad hpop feed line
@@AutomedicGarage thank you for your thoughtful response. I had a somewhat slow start up on my late 2004, so I air leak tested it heard a very small leak from both valve covers. Now when I go to start it takes 20 seconds or so to build to 500psi. If I shut it down and start it back up within a few seconds it fires up instantly. Kinda discouraging. But better now then when I'm towing something. Hoping it's just a stand pipe. Tearing into it tomorrow. Thanks for your great video.
Good diagnosis and repair. That stuck and then broken IPR valve was a bear. China strikes again! Don't let Gary sell that truck after all the blood sweat and tears. 😂
What’s the computer or diagnostic tool that you were using for the initial inspection? What’s the cost to own ? is it a yearly subscription paying for updates and software upgrades year over year?
It’s an old tough book running Autoenginuity. I have the enhanced ford, GM and Chrysler packages. Each package is about $300 I think. Don’t have to use a toughbook, I do because my gets beat up daily. You get 1 update a year. Customer service is excellent with them also.
Heres a question. My trucks got a new hpop,icp,ipr,motor harness, ficm,ficm harness, new fuel pickup, new fuel pump/filters. My truck starts up nice. But once its warm it shuts off. I cycle the key a couple times and it starts back up. But theres ONE green and red wire coming from the fuse box under there dash on the driver side. You so much as wiggle that wire while the trucks running it shuts down and will not start until you wiggle it for awhile.
$200 labor per side. Oem stand pipe and dummy plug set is around $100 but you gotta factor in $150 diagnostic fee for figuring what’s leaking and doing a air test through the ipr.
I have a 2004 (late model) in my f250. I crank it it builds oil pressure the low oil pressure is 389 and the desired is over 1500. It cranks but will not start. It will start if I give it a lil shot of ether and as long as I don't turn it off. It will run all day. But if I turn it off. I will have to use ether and it fires up. What is your thoughts?
That’s your high pressure oil , low pressure doesn’t get that high. You have a weak pump or a Hpo leak somewhere. Air test the system see what you find. You kinda at the line of a hot crank no start and a crank no start.
I have a f350 6.0 05 that won’t start cold. My scan tool is showing 0-3 for icp and ipr is 85% when cranking. I removed oil filter and oil boil is filling when cranking. I checked ipr valve and the screen looked good. I ended up replacing the ipr. No change in scan tool readings. I am thinking my hpop is no good. I feel if I had a leak I would have some pressure build up on start. Oh and great video. Gained a sub. Also curious to why you air test through ipr and not icp?
Never thought about it that way. What do you think about the other part of my comment? Do you think I am correct going to the hpop since I am getting no pressure at all?
Good job. But I have a problem with mine. So sounds like you want to crank but it won't stop. I think I gotta leak in the system Ic p. Isn't building 500 PS in? Direct. Me in the right place, please.Thanks
My Icp going 84.99 under full load it is asking for 3600psi it is only getting 935 psi hpop bad? Also forgot to mention my fuel pressure drops to 46 psi then it goes back up to 58psi. Both fuel filters are brand new. Do i go after the hpop or low pressure fuel pump.
@@tinok.8149 according to ford anything above 45 psi is acceptable on fuel pressure but it sounds like you need a blue spring or your HFCM is getting weak. Are you sure the 84.99 isn’t your IPR cause that what ipr maxes out at. If it is ipr it’s doing all it can to produce the 935 Hpo. Depending on your year if it’s a early 6.0 03-early 04 I’d say hpop if it’s 04.5-07 I’d say some other Hpo leak such as standpipes, dummy plugs, nipple cups or upper injector orings
I personally as well as others have been having issues with motorcraft dummy plugs and stand pipes. I think it has something to do with supply chain issues and changing suppliers.
I havent had any issues. Installing with assembly lubes and being careful are a lot of the problems with them also a lot of folks don’t torque them either.
@@AutomedicGarage Any tricks or tips for getting the bottom piece of the stand pipe in and out on the passenger side without pulling the oil rail off? My evaporator box is too close and it won't clear it. I have not seen any videos addressing this.
I ordered ford for the stan pipes. I have to go to work so not sure when i will be getting to mine. I need to order a ipr socket and the air line... where can i get them from? Do i need an expensive scan tool to get readings i need?
I working on HPOP 6.0 with oval O ring or one sensor…. The hpop is on engine and mount torque spec with 2 new O rings … and I ask my helper to hear any air leak with tube n hear leak by gear front seal … is that normal or need replace pump …
Small amount of air through pump seal is normal long as it it’s excessive.what year truck? 03-early 04 are problematic pumps. 04.5-07 usually never fail.
My 06 was no crank when hot, then just long crank no start, i changed the ipr and both issues went away.... for 3 days, then no start when hot again...
So I made my own tester. Doesn't have the on off valve but it still works. My hpop is bad. But have you ever seen the screen of the ipr break off and stay in the hpop??
@AutomedicGarage 03...sent the air. I could hear it coming thru the oil filter housing. I already bought an oil cooler because the truck wasn't maintained...so I took the oil cooler out. Sent air through and it was spitting air at the oil filter screen No air coming out of any valve covers.
@AutomedicGarage the videos help extremely. Question though...I am replacing the injectors...now is it OK to go with 155s and should I replace the oil rail cups or nipples whatever they call them...since I'm gonna be that far into it? It's been studded and egr deleted as well.
Ah…it ain’t bad. I did a oil cooler job today old out and new in at 5 hrs. Now I just gotta flush all the chocolate syrup out of the system. Just make sure you live everything, check everything and torque everything appropriately. 6.0s are great they just need the attention to detail to be right.
@@AutomedicGarage Hello, I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the 6.0L engine. I'm having trouble with my radio, gauges, and windows shutting off at the same time frequently. I know that this is a common issue with this model truck but I can't seem to find the problem, but when I wiggle my gear shift everything starts back working again. By the way, the gear shift is new, I thought that was causing the problems but I was wrong. Do you have any idea what could be the cause of the problem?
@@AutomedicGarage mine’s having the hard to start when hot and it even dies if i dont keep it at 1200 rpm. Someone’s been in there. Found 4 valve cover bolts stripped on the hvac box side. And noticed the ipr was new.
@@Srt8brian hook it up to the ipr first with the hpop cover on. It will be harder to hear the leak from the pump but if you don’t hear it anywhere else. Remove the pump cover hook the tool back up and retest.
Hello, I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the 6.0L engine. I'm having trouble with my radio, gauges, and windows shutting off at the same time frequently. I know that this is a common issue with this model truck but I can't seem to find the problem, but when I wiggle my gear shift everything starts back working again. By the way, the gear shift is new, I thought that was causing the problems but I was wrong. Do anyone have any idea what could be the cause of this problem?
Your have a short somewhere in your gauge assembly. Autotechrescue.com is who I send all my gauges out to for repair. Usually have them back in a week to 10 days.
@@AutomedicGarage So a short in the gauges would cause the windows and radio not to work too? It all stops working at the same time and comes back on at the same time.
@AutomedicGarage I ordered new Motorcraft standpipes, I will get new icp, and the computer for injectors... they have a rebuilt one with lifetime warranty for $200
Easier as in take the other side apart that has no leaks? You could maybe say preventative but I wouldn’t say easier. It’s not a hard job but why replace it if it isn’t leaking?
I was going more along the lines of preventative. Not disagreeing it was legit question not trying to be sarcastic. Just thinking while you were in there why not but maybe it isn’t feasible
@@AutomedicGarage damn planning on moving east tennessee area soon. So can u answer me this what will cause a tow haul light to flash on the dash but not on the shifter
I really appreciate the 6.0 powerstroke content you make it’s very helpful! Keep up the great work!
Gary is so lucky to have a friend like you around to save his ass!
not sure if you've tried, but I fill the oil rail with a syringe by removing the small plug in the top of the rail. Takes a little time, but fires up first crank. Great content!!
“Gary’s gonna put a dip in and calm down” 😂
Messing with my raggedy truck 🤣🤣
I always hate when I get aggravated when i already have a dip in or a smoke burnin cause then I can't use those two things to make me happier 😂😂
The face Gary makes when you say " youve got a high pressure oil leak"
I've definitely made that face as a 6 litre owner multiple times but they're so good when they're good that I keep getting em lol
very very good job on the video ...very helpful ..make sum more on 6.0 power stroke problems and repairs ...be safe
You're a good friend.
Gary has to go make some money.
I'm having the same issue with my 2005..... Brutal
2004 early style HPOP
Suspect HPOP failing
165k miles, original HPOP
Long crank cold and long crank hot. New FoMoCo standpipes and dummy plugs
IPR test good, screen clean, went ahead and Replaced screen anyways
Oil psi gauge goes to zero when the oil gets warm, oil Guage swings to normal any rpm above idle
Filter removed low psi pump fills oil resevoir relatively quickly. Checkked the shuttle valve and spring on the bottom side they are good
Next test is shop air at IPR port
Your videos are the best. Thanks for what you do. I was considering an excursion with a 6.0 but I’m thinking it’s a lot of work
Thanks for the compliment and commenting.
I have a 2005 6.0 had a hot not start and eventually became a stall when hot(I assume that's what it's called died after getting real warm) tested it and could tell it was leaking driver side standpipe where it goes into the long tube. After opening the system and waiting a week or 2 it started getting some air out of # 4 or 6 injector. Only leaks really bad when I crank the air to about 100 psi but under 75 doesn't seem like it does at all. Should I go ahead and replace orings in nipple cups or what would you do. Oh yeah and new o rings in injectors about 2 months before this happend at a reputable shop. Sorry about the long comment but I sure do appreciate your time and as always a great video!
So, I get this question alot “it’s leaking air from the top injector oring or nipple cup”. So often times you will have some air leak from the upper injector seal, I stress “some”. If it’s just seeping air or you a a small amount of oil gurgling your more than likely good. If it’s leaking so bad that as soon as you shut the air valve off all the air is gone from within the system you have a problem. It’s acceptable if your turn off the air and it’s holding enough that you hear the air leak for another 20-30 secs after shutting it off. It’s hard to explain what “acceptable” I’ve kinda just learned to trust my ears. Hope that helps some.
@@AutomedicGarage good deal thank you sir, plan to pull the rail as soon as weather and work permits thanks again ive learned alot by watching you
@@codyfowler3384 glad to hear it. Keep watching.
23:52 is that an 2003 Ten-blade turbo? Sounds great!! The truck is for sure newer than 03... Great video!!!
It’s a 05. It’s a 10 blade QuickTime turbo
OK, so I will defenitely be installing them on this tear down, I still have NOT pressure checked the rails, but very sure the nipple cups and injector o-rings moved or are leaking on the passenger side. Since I removed that side rail to fit or to remove the OLD standpipe. So, with that being said, got P/N's for NEW o-rings and back seals on the standpipes and dummy plugs?
I usually buy the updated OEM stand pipes and dummy plugs.
OK, YES, I have the OEM "upgraded" standpipes and dummy plugs from FORD. What I am looking to get is the "NEW" seals and o-rings for them? Thought you might have some part numbers.
No I’ve never replaced just the orings. I always buy a new set of pipes. Sorry.
@@AutomedicGarage OK, so I finally got my tools and did a pressure check through the IPR port. Thank GOD, only found a torn screen on the IPR with chewed up o-ring and back ring. Pressure check was good and solid. Thanx again for the videos!!
@@curlyelp7530 did you run her yet?
@@AutomedicGarage Waiting on my IPR parts, tomorrow, do you have the IPR torque value? Thanx !!
@@curlyelp7530 usually don’t torque, pointless using a universal and multiple extensions.
Thanks for your videos! What about a longer cold start but fast hot start? What could cause that?
Glow plugs
@AutomedicGarage thank you!
I'm also dealing with another issue. When I start my truck and drive I have full power for a short period of time, from a minute to 5. Boost goes above 20 psi and can go to higher rpm. Then I loose some power and boost is below 20 psi and barely goes up to 3500 rpm. If I turn off my truck and turn it back on, full power again. My speedometer doesn't work yet but I don't think that should do anything with it. Truck was stolen so some wires are cut and ignition is still busted. I think I had full power when I got the truck back but not sure now. It just feels like if it's getting flooded. Hopefully that makes sense.
Appreciate the diagnostic and fix! what tools do you use for the passenger side valve cover bolts next to the A/C box?
Ratchet wrench.
@@AutomedicGarage reminds me of nurse ratchet .in the movie one flew over the co cos.nest.. jack nicholson..in a nut house...
Ok, Thanx for the quick reply, appreciate it. What do you think about their "Nipple Cups, No Leaks", is it for real?
The idea behind their design is when and if you develop a leak, and they all will leak some at some point, it prevents the high pressure oil from eroding the upper injector oring seal which will end up cause a crank no start hot or even a crank no start once it’s totally gone. I like them, they are pricey but I like the idea.
I have 2003 6.0 and starts right up, then once the oil get up to temp it shuts off like you turned the key off. Then once it cools off after hour or 2 so it will start. Thinking hpop?
Your video is great!
That would be my best guess without hooking my Autoenginuity up to it.
I enjoy your videos, thank you. What is the scanning tool that you are using ?
I am full timing in a 2007 6.0 power stroke .
Earth roamer I am handy, but I am not a mechanic.
I need something that is intuitive. That can get me out of trouble.
needs to do data, logging and reading and clearing codes.
any help would be appreciated. Thank you.
Autoenginuity with enhanced ford, GM and Chrysler package. Only thing it doesn’t do well on the 6.0s is power balance graph. I’ve been told by autoenginuity that it has to do with the FICM
I had pretty much the same issue including the leaking injector when air testing after replacing the standpipe and dummy plug (passenger side). I have read a couple of posts that said not to take much stock in air testing immediately afterward since there’s no oil pressure to seat the o-rings. Have you had any experience with that happening? Where maybe it leaks with the air test but doesn’t bleed off the oil pressure? I’m going to go ahead and order the injector seals but I am gonna put it back together and see what happens.
I think I mentioned that in this video, if not it was another 6.0 video but yes. The system is designed to seal and hold oil pressure. Often times you will get bubbling or gurgling at the upper injector oring. Minimal is acceptable if it excessive then replace. Also sometimes the upper seal can be mistaken for a nipple cup oring leaking because it shoots the oil/air directly down at the upper injector seal. Hot that helps some.
@@AutomedicGarage
Yes sir thank you for the reply! Pretty sure that’s the first time I’ve ever asked a question on UA-cam since it’s seems most questions I read in the comments never get an answer (on other channels). You’ve given me some hope at least. Unless it was something I damaged when putting the oil rail back in place then I’m hoping it’s just the air getting by with no oil pressure. When I initially did the air test it wasn’t leaking in that spot. Although…I suppose it’s possible that since my main issue was a split o-ring on the lower section of the standpipe maybe it wasn’t allowing enough air pressure to get to the front injector to be noticed during the test and only showed itself after installing the new standpipe.
@@jgp9290 if you had a torn oring on the standpipe and it’s a 04.5-07 then I’d almost guarantee that was it. If it was a early 6.0 then it could be the injector seal or bad pump or a bad hpop feed line
@@AutomedicGarage thank you for your thoughtful response.
I had a somewhat slow start up on my late 2004, so I air leak tested it heard a very small leak from both valve covers. Now when I go to start it takes 20 seconds or so to build to 500psi. If I shut it down and start it back up within a few seconds it fires up instantly. Kinda discouraging. But better now then when I'm towing something. Hoping it's just a stand pipe. Tearing into it tomorrow.
Thanks for your great video.
@@patrickwelch620 is your early or late 04
Good diagnosis and repair. That stuck and then broken IPR valve was a bear. China strikes again! Don't let Gary sell that truck after all the blood sweat and tears. 😂
What’s the computer or diagnostic tool that you were using for the initial inspection? What’s the cost to own ?
is it a yearly subscription paying for updates and software upgrades year over year?
It’s an old tough book running Autoenginuity. I have the enhanced ford, GM and Chrysler packages. Each package is about $300 I think. Don’t have to use a toughbook, I do because my gets beat up daily. You get 1 update a year. Customer service is excellent with them also.
Is there a part number for the air tester?
@@Bwoodjr1228 I’m sure there is just go to accurate or prosource diesel and look up 6.0 ipr air tester
Heres a question. My trucks got a new hpop,icp,ipr,motor harness, ficm,ficm harness, new fuel pickup, new fuel pump/filters. My truck starts up nice. But once its warm it shuts off. I cycle the key a couple times and it starts back up. But theres ONE green and red wire coming from the fuse box under there dash on the driver side. You so much as wiggle that wire while the trucks running it shuts down and will not start until you wiggle it for awhile.
What brand harness? Sounds like similar problems I have with the Amazon and eBay harnesses
@@AutomedicGarage the new harnesses were both off ebay. Theyre not the best but not the cheapest. Definitely better that the ones that were on it.
I’m having the same issues with my truck. Out of curiosity, what does a job like this cost, roughly?
$200 labor per side. Oem stand pipe and dummy plug set is around $100 but you gotta factor in $150 diagnostic fee for figuring what’s leaking and doing a air test through the ipr.
I have a 2004 (late model) in my f250. I crank it it builds oil pressure the low oil pressure is 389 and the desired is over 1500. It cranks but will not start. It will start if I give it a lil shot of ether and as long as I don't turn it off. It will run all day. But if I turn it off. I will have to use ether and it fires up. What is your thoughts?
That’s your high pressure oil , low pressure doesn’t get that high. You have a weak pump or a Hpo leak somewhere. Air test the system see what you find. You kinda at the line of a hot crank no start and a crank no start.
I have a f350 6.0 05 that won’t start cold. My scan tool is showing 0-3 for icp and ipr is 85% when cranking. I removed oil filter and oil boil is filling when cranking. I checked ipr valve and the screen looked good. I ended up replacing the ipr. No change in scan tool readings. I am thinking my hpop is no good. I feel if I had a leak I would have some pressure build up on start. Oh and great video. Gained a sub. Also curious to why you air test through ipr and not icp?
Testing through ipr is more accurate, takes ipr out of loop and if you test through icp you dont get even flow through both sides.
Never thought about it that way. What do you think about the other part of my comment? Do you think I am correct going to the hpop since I am getting no pressure at all?
@@daddydubbs never had a bad pump on 04.5-up. You got a massive leak somewhere. Air tester will tell you where the leak is.
Good job.
But I have a problem with mine. So sounds like you want to crank but it won't stop. I think I gotta leak in the system Ic p. Isn't building 500 PS in? Direct.
Me in the right place, please.Thanks
@@marianomachado3631 crank but won’t stop? Are you saying you started is getting stuck and it keeps cranking?
What program/ software are you using in your laptop?
@@danzcustomchit7915 autoenginuity
Hello , Thanx for the video , I just tried the website you quoted "OR" maybe I heard wrong. HAC DIESEL ?? Thanx, Raul PHX
If I was referring to the nipple cups it would have been HHC Diesel www.hhcdiesel.com/
My Icp going 84.99 under full load it is asking for 3600psi it is only getting 935 psi hpop bad? Also forgot to mention my fuel pressure drops to 46 psi then it goes back up to 58psi. Both fuel filters are brand new. Do i go after the hpop or low pressure fuel pump.
@@tinok.8149 according to ford anything above 45 psi is acceptable on fuel pressure but it sounds like you need a blue spring or your HFCM is getting weak. Are you sure the 84.99 isn’t your IPR cause that what ipr maxes out at. If it is ipr it’s doing all it can to produce the 935 Hpo. Depending on your year if it’s a early 6.0 03-early 04 I’d say hpop if it’s 04.5-07 I’d say some other Hpo leak such as standpipes, dummy plugs, nipple cups or upper injector orings
I personally as well as others have been having issues with motorcraft dummy plugs and stand pipes. I think it has something to do with supply chain issues and changing suppliers.
I havent had any issues. Installing with assembly lubes and being careful are a lot of the problems with them also a lot of folks don’t torque them either.
@@AutomedicGarage Any tricks or tips for getting the bottom piece of the stand pipe in and out on the passenger side without pulling the oil rail off?
My evaporator box is too close and it won't clear it. I have not seen any videos addressing this.
@@eric91780 remove the oil rail, takes 15 min
Thread a bolt in and pull it out
I ordered ford for the stan pipes. I have to go to work so not sure when i will be getting to mine. I need to order a ipr socket and the air line... where can i get them from? Do i need an expensive scan tool to get readings i need?
Accurate diesel has the air tester and ipr socket. You do need a scan tool that is able to read live data. I use autoenginuity
@@AutomedicGarage I have one for my semi truck, I need to call them and see if I can use it
I working on HPOP 6.0 with oval O ring or one sensor…. The hpop is on engine and mount torque spec with 2 new O rings … and I ask my helper to hear any air leak with tube n hear leak by gear front seal … is that normal or need replace pump …
Small amount of air through pump seal is normal long as it it’s excessive.what year truck? 03-early 04 are problematic pumps. 04.5-07 usually never fail.
Great job!
My 06 was no crank when hot, then just long crank no start, i changed the ipr and both issues went away.... for 3 days, then no start when hot again...
So I made my own tester. Doesn't have the on off valve but it still works.
My hpop is bad.
But have you ever seen the screen of the ipr break off and stay in the hpop??
Yea on occasion. What year is yours? Never had a bad pump 04.5 and up.
@AutomedicGarage 03...sent the air. I could hear it coming thru the oil filter housing.
I already bought an oil cooler because the truck wasn't maintained...so I took the oil cooler out. Sent air through and it was spitting air at the oil filter screen
No air coming out of any valve covers.
@@nuffsaid6807 makes sense. Sounds like your on the right trac. Hopefully the videos helped some.
@AutomedicGarage the videos help extremely. Question though...I am replacing the injectors...now is it OK to go with 155s and should I replace the oil rail cups or nipples whatever they call them...since I'm gonna be that far into it? It's been studded and egr deleted as well.
@AutomedicGarage wish I could give you the work but I'm not close enough to pay the tow bill. Lol
Where can i get that scanning system? Their are 6 of those darned 6.0 junkers that i need to get fixed.
Riff raff, full force or autoenginuity.com
@@AutomedicGarage thank you.
Chinese dorman standpipes on the passenger side. Did you look at the driver side yet?
We went on and did them that day also
thx for showing me the torture i am about to receive ;)
Ah…it ain’t bad. I did a oil cooler job today old out and new in at 5 hrs. Now I just gotta flush all the chocolate syrup out of the system. Just make sure you live everything, check everything and torque everything appropriately. 6.0s are great they just need the attention to detail to be right.
did you replace the valve cover gasket?
Negative. They looked very new still and weren’t dry and crispy. Gary’s truck had studs done not to long before he bought it.
@@AutomedicGarage Hello, I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the 6.0L engine. I'm having trouble with my radio, gauges, and windows shutting off at the same time frequently. I know that this is a common issue with this model truck but I can't seem to find the problem, but when I wiggle my gear shift everything starts back working again. By the way, the gear shift is new, I thought that was causing the problems but I was wrong. Do you have any idea what could be the cause of the problem?
@@mauricematthews5065 your instrument cluster is going bad, I had the same problem. Just replace the gauge cluster and it’ll fix everything.
@@ODIIN636 Thanks for the info!
What program are you using
Autoenginuity
Well done.
Thanks bud.
Are you located in Texas Dallas area?
@@brucestovall874 west tennessee
Is that a racin Gary?
Yea, Racin Gary got his racin truck back.
Is there updated standpipes for the 03 6.0 as well, or does this only comply to 04 and up?
There are not stand pipes in 03-early 04. They have a high pressure line that feeds the rail with a quick connector on it.
@@AutomedicGarage mine’s having the hard to start when hot and it even dies if i dont keep it at 1200 rpm. Someone’s been in there. Found 4 valve cover bolts stripped on the hvac box side. And noticed the ipr was new.
@@Srt8brian I’d bet a wooden nickle it’s your hpop. Those aluminum pump get weak and fail.
@@AutomedicGarage will i be able to tell with the pressure tool? Or how do I test for a bad hpop
@@Srt8brian hook it up to the ipr first with the hpop cover on. It will be harder to hear the leak from the pump but if you don’t hear it anywhere else. Remove the pump cover hook the tool back up and retest.
Hello, I have a 2005 Ford F-350 with the 6.0L engine. I'm having trouble with my radio, gauges, and windows shutting off at the same time frequently. I know that this is a common issue with this model truck but I can't seem to find the problem, but when I wiggle my gear shift everything starts back working again. By the way, the gear shift is new, I thought that was causing the problems but I was wrong. Do anyone have any idea what could be the cause of this problem?
Your have a short somewhere in your gauge assembly. Autotechrescue.com is who I send all my gauges out to for repair. Usually have them back in a week to 10 days.
@@AutomedicGarage So a short in the gauges would cause the windows and radio not to work too? It all stops working at the same time and comes back on at the same time.
@@mauricematthews5065 yes, radio, door locks, windows, dome light, etc all run through the gauges. It’s a common 6.0 problem.
@@AutomedicGarage Thanks a lot for the info.
My icp was unplugged when I got it... now 2 months later I have crank, no start. I was out and had to hit with either to get home
DO NOT USE EITHER!!!
@@AutomedicGarage I just did 1 time to get it home
@AutomedicGarage I ordered new Motorcraft standpipes, I will get new icp, and the computer for injectors... they have a rebuilt one with lifetime warranty for $200
thank you
Thanks for watching.
747 heavy, ready for takeoff.
How much does a job like this usually cost?
$300 labor per side
Thanks
I just did this on my 04 and when I applied air I have a whistle coming from the passenger side
Pull that valve cover and do some more digging. The air will point you in the right direction. Thanks for watching.
I could use your help
Bring it to me
Seems like it would be easier to just replace the stand pipes and dummy plugs on both sides
Easier as in take the other side apart that has no leaks? You could maybe say preventative but I wouldn’t say easier. It’s not a hard job but why replace it if it isn’t leaking?
I was going more along the lines of preventative. Not disagreeing it was legit question not trying to be sarcastic. Just thinking while you were in there why not but maybe it isn’t feasible
@@bullitt5337 you can but they are more likely perfect, they blow when they blow. Correct installation and torque is what matters most
While you were cranking the engine, I heard a faint skip.
Probably was trying to hit getting close to but not at 500 psi. That motor is mint only problem was the high pressure oil leak.
The same thing you did with the china part do the same thing to the box of bud lights.
I didn’t have any bud lights. Busch was my beer but not anymore
That same girl China haha
I need u as my mechanic like dead ass where r u located
Arlington tn
@@AutomedicGarage damn planning on moving east tennessee area soon. So can u answer me this what will cause a tow haul light to flash on the dash but not on the shifter
Bud light ???REALLY MAN ???
When someone brings you free beer it’s usually not the most polite thing to turn it down. I’ve never bought nor plan to buy BL