FRONT Brake Pad & Rotor Replacement - 2014 Acura MDX
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- Not a Mechanic...Not a Professional. Just an average contributor to UA-cam. My attempt at Front/ Pads & Rotor job. Please share your thoughts.... Keep the comments comin' and...... Enjoy!!
2014 Acura MDX:
Front Brake Pads- OEM Honda Part# 45022-TZ5-A01
Front Brake Rotor- Raybestos Part# 981063
Rotor Screw- OEM Honda Part# 93600-06014-0H
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Nice work and you make it look easy. Going to attempt all 4 on my RDX. I see a kit on Amazon for all the rotors and pads to do my whole truck. Where did you get your parts from?
Thanks Cliff. All 4 rotors are "Raybestos" brand which got good reviews and are about half the price of Honda OEM rotors. I purchased them online at FindItParts.com and as for the pads...Honda/Acura OEM, which I also purchased online...from AcuraOemParts.com . I put all the part numbers in the description but I doubt they are the same for an RDX. Do some homework first.
No sir wait! That’s a different model than the one in the video. You’re going to blow up your ca-- .. I’m probably too late aren’t I
My man!
Outstanding brake pads & rotor replacement video!
I too own a third gen MDX.
I too am not a mechanic but I’m a DIY kind of guy so when the Acura service agent gave me the estimate of $630.74 before taxes to Replace my Pads & Resurface my Rotors.
I told him not a bad price,
and decided to go on Amazon where I found a new 2014 Acura MDX pads & rotor kit for under $300. I purchased it. As soon as my parts arrive I too will be diving in on the same project myself and your video will be right next to me as a guide. And I will be picking up new rotor screws from Honda as well. Thanks!
I live in the state of fruits and nuts California. Mechanics here most of them very dishonest. Tired of getting jack, I decided to do took matter into my own hands. To do brakes and rotors on my own. Came across your video is very informative and helpful. Now I do oil change, transmission fluid, brakes, and rotors on my own. I have save a lot of moneys on labor cost. Thanks a lot man!
Thank You! My son and I just changed our first rotors and pads on our 2014 Acura MDX. Your video was accurate and easy to follow. Thanks again.
You should be teaching yo son and got another man teaching yall. Thx
The best video for changing Acura rotors and pads on the internet!!!! Not sure why not enough views & likes.
Nice job. You said you are not a Mecanic;yet you do a better job than most of them.Congrats.
Real nice job Brooklyn! quick tip when you're buttoning up after rotor and pads are on, try putting the 17mm bolts in the caliper body, top and bottom, thread it to barely connect, then pull one out at a time to flip the caliper body up or down like a clam shell to place those "wishbone" spreader springs one at a time. Takes a minute longer but, here's your third hand. Great job. Gotta love Brooklyn. Torques should be: 17mm - 53 ftlb 19mm 101 ftlb., lugs 80 ftlb (graduate 50-70-80) Please verify.
Front Caliper Bracket torque spec=101 lb-ft. Caliper Slider Pin=53 lb-ft.
Lug bolts torque spec=92 lb-ft.
Wow. Where were you when I needed you 6 months ago..lol. Thanks for the info. People will find it useful.
Thank you.
IMPORTANT NOTE: The rotor screws are NOT phillips just so you know. They are JIS #3's heads. Honda and Toyota and some other manufacturers use JIS Screws (Japanese Industrial Screw). You need a special bit or screw driver and they will come out easily. Vessel makes a impact screw driver for these. Link: www.amazon.com/Vessel-125943-P3x150-Impacta-Screwdriver/dp/B003BGTTSE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=vessel+screwdriver+%233+brake+rotor+screws&qid=1579872990&sr=8-1 Hope this helps. I bought this driver and you can use the hammer on the end of it. Works great! No more swearing on that screw!
Because of this video, I change the front rotors and pads on my 2015 MDX today! Appreciate you Brooklyn!
Good work. The threaded holes in the rotor are there to help you pull the rotor off. Screw in two bolts of the proper thread, they will push against the rear flange pulling the rotors off
Yeah, I know that now Jim. Unfortunately I found that out 2 days after performing this brake job. I felt extra silly about it. well....Ya live and you learn..
Add the M8 1.25 x 30mm flange bolts to your shopping list when taking on the brake job. I got mine from Autozone, cost me $4. It is a godsend, works like a charm.
Nice job! Not enough people take the time to change camera angles for the best view. You do and shade tree mechanics will really appreciate that. You’re giving a lot of people the courage to do this themselves. A couple tips from my own experience: get an 8M x1.25 bolt (that’s what my TL and my Ridgeline take) to screw into the holes in the rotor hat. That’s what the additional holes are for - as you tighten the bolts, it forces the rotor off the hub. Works like a charm. Take the cap off the brake reservoir before you push the pistons back into the bore. Use a mechanic impact screw driver (some part stores will loan them or rent them for nothing) to remove that rotor retainer screw. Finally, change the metal pad retainer clips in the notches of the caliper bracket. Use only stainless steel.
At my local shop $400 parts and labor to put pads and rotors on my TL. You’re saving people a LOT of money nice work!
Nice work! I love to see someone taking the time to do a relatively simple job the right way.
Thanks. Much appreciated!!
you are right, you are the first that I have seen on this model yo!!!!!!!
Thank you for the video. It helped me greatly and gave me the courage to replace the brake rotors and pads at home.
Fantastic video. Great work! Thank you for making it and for sharing with us!
You are a pro now cuz, you are worthy to be hired to perform these services in your community!!!!!!!
Awesome job my man. Brake job on the street no-less! Thanks for the tips throughout. Gonna tackle this job today here in Ottawa, Canada!
Nice work. a couple of comments...I think that is a lot of anti-seize you put on the hub and also the brake line looked twisted when you bolted the calipers back on.
Anyone who wants to make this job infinitely easier, first of all get yourself a $20 hand impact driver. Put the biggest Phillips head bit on it get it in that screw, turn and whack the end of the hammer and it'll be right out of there. Best to give a little squirt of penetrating oil on that screw and also in the two holes on the rotor. Now let's get to those two holes on the rotor. Those are threaded screw holes. Find you the right size bolt and thread bolts into both of those holes. Get them hand tight and then proceed to tighten them about a quarter to half a turn each alternating back and forth between each bolt. Also alternate with giving the rotor a couple of whacks with a hammer every now and then and they'll pop right off.
Good job..no need to locktie , looks like flex brake hose is twisted on install. Also remove antirattle rubber bushing on lower sliding pin they sell an seize pin causing uneven pad ware. Good luck my friend.
Aheyyyooo being from NY and not seeing the pause is crazy 22:57
Nice job!! Congrats.. fort your first time. I was going to pay $160 just for labor I like your video.. and you explain everything there are some videos that they don’t show you details and you do.. keep the good job 👍🏼.. thanks for helping me.. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Thank You for watching. Your Welcome.
Next time you can hold the pads in place with a C clamp. Install the springs, partially lower the caliper over the pads, then remove the C clamp.
My man you do good work. 2 notes sir. 1 you need to use clean gloves when installing the née rotor. You got dirt and grease on the rotor. Said you were gonna clean it again but forgot. The dirt and grease will cause improper heating and wearing and will warp your rotor all over again. 2. If you have a warped rotor you should replace the pads as well even if newer because the rotors have Mis shaped the pads with the rotor wobble and with the groves in the rotor. So when you put those pads on the new rotor they are not making flat perfect contact as they are supposed to and that too will cause the new rotors to warp. How do I know yup been there done that. Again you do a great job just trying to help a brotha out.
Awesome video
Very helpful!
Great Job Man!! Love your videos! I wouldn't hesitate to buy one of your cars. You take great care of them and you know how to make a car last! suggestion: You could lube the brake caliper bracket mating surfaces with the never seize also... (where your big 19mm bolts go).... mating surface on the knuckle and the caliper bracket. Like you, I've never had one come loose! Always rusted on. LOL.
Thank you míster, I was having a issue starting minute 49:00, the bolt 🔩 keeps turning now i know why. Thanks😊
Thank you for making this video, very helpful.
Get an impact screwdriver where you hit it with a hammer. Also, if you remove that 12mm brake line bolt you can use that to screw into the rotor to release it off the hub.
Its recommended to change pads with rotors cause the impurity of the pads (grooves) off the older rotor will mess up the pads...thts why they always recommend resurfacing rotors when changing pads or replacing them doing the job once
Yes. I've herd that before, and I agree. But these pads were just a couple months old.. practically new -with no visual wear whatsoever. What happened was I just purchased the car this year and noticed the pads were running low. About a month after the pads were installed.. I started to notice a slight vibration when braking..this is why the rotor change was necessary (maybe not all 4 but why not). There's no way I was going to buy another set of OEM Acura pad$$$ with a set this fresh. I think the rotor and pads will be fine. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks for your feedback.
you need to use a 3 or 4 lb sledge put the lug nuts back on so you dont miss and hit a stud and hit it very hard with a 3 or 4 lb sledge hammer also be carefull where you are hitting the rotor if you are replacing the rotor then it does not matter where you hit it but if you are keeping the rotor and reusing them dont hit the face
I'm not a mechanic - I just have portable battery powered impact driver - hahaha - love it!
Thank you very much for sharing. it
Good video. How did the rotors and pads combo workout for you?. I have to perform the same job, but for all four. Thanks in advance.
very good video invest in a impact driver tool for removing the screw that holds the rotor on. they are not to pricy and work fast in removing the screw even the one at hft is good enough they even make impact screw drivers now i bought mine on amazon and they were called vessel
Thanks for the tip. I learned about that Impact Driver tool about 2 weeks after I did this video. I was upset.You live and you learn....I guess
Struggling to remove that rotor stud, Take the Philip bit put it on the stud and give it some heavy blow with a hammer, Then attempt to loosen it
Thanks
Thank you!
Good job man..but I would never put used pads on new rotors..just saying maybe they might kill ur rotors..
2015 acura rdx just replaced all pads and resurfaced rotors and now I have a low whine just before stopping It sounds like its coming from the rear.........HELP....
Gonna attempt thia shit on my 2015 rlx thanks brother
GO GET IT!!.....this is lite work..
penetrating lub would have helped and let that screw soak a bit before any attempts at loosening.
Yea. The next time I perform this brake job, i'm gonna do a couple of things differently. First, I will use a manual "Impact screw driver tool w/hammer" on the rotor screws. I think this tool will do the job way more aggressively and faster than the impact drill. The BIGGEST thing I would do differently is to use two 8mm screws inside those blank rotor holes to raise the rotor off of the rusty hub assembly..ie NO HAMMERING on the rotor for 10hrs.!!! These things I learned days "AFTER" completing this job. I was PISSED!! Oh well...You live...You Learn!!
Auto Shop always said "oh you need to cut the disk everytime you changed the brake pad" and also told me "Acura MDX has always defective disk brake that braking hard will bend the disk" I was like ....come on mannn,,,thousands of Acura MDX has this problem??? BS Auto shop!
Anti sieze on the caliper bolts not loctite
I don't see a need for a set screw on rotor when the 5 wheel stud is more than enough!
Jimmy
why the fuck the car company don't use anti c when they assembled
Hammer lol
Great video brother. I too have a '14 MDX and I think this is the first video for this job. Actually not too many videos out there for the 3rd gen MDX. I was worried there for the rotor screw but you got it! Have you checked the videos by Eric the Car Guy. Tons of useful videos that would apply to our car. This one lines up perfectly with yours ua-cam.com/users/EricTheCarGuysearch?query=brake
Keep the videos coming man! Ruben from Los Angeles
Yea...I definitely watched a bunch of Eric's videos to gather up the balls to perform this job on my own..lol. Don't use a hammer drill like I did in this video, I think a Manual Impact Driver is the way to go. I got one for about 15 bucks on Amazon. And don't you dare place uncoated rotors on your vehicle. Either buy em' coated or paint them yourself before putting them on. Thanks for watching.
Talking too much!