2013 Mazda 3 Coolant Change
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- Опубліковано 7 бер 2020
- Although I'm doing this job a bit early, I have a free Sunday afternoon to get some work done on the Mazda. The coolant flush is a pretty simple process in this car, and even if there is an airlock in the system I had no difficulty getting it out.
Tools Required:
- Phillips head screwdriver - amzn.to/3qiCWhs
- Metric Socket Set - amzn.to/3mjeXMz
- Mazda FL-22 Coolant - From Mazda Dealership
- Oil Catch Pan - amzn.to/35H2PPG
- Vinyl mechanic gloves - amzn.to/3mgdZke
- Shop Towels - amzn.to/38SnX7D
- Funnels - amzn.to/36eIIIY
- Deionized Water - www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/tu...
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of DIYNorth, DIYNorth cannot guarantee against improper use or unauthorized modifications of this information. DIYNorth assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. Use this information at your own risk. DIYNorth recommends safe practices when working on vehicles and or with tools seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of DIYNorth, no information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage, or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or from the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not DIYNorth. - Авто та транспорт
Was happy to recognize your voice from your spark plugs tutorial; was equally as helpful. Great work!
Thanks for checking both of them out
Coming back to refresh up on this video again but wanted to mention how great this video is. $225 is a ton of money for this job. Haha. Thank you.
Thanks for watching, thanks for the feedback.
Dope 2hrs later and 50 in tools and coolant i got it done. Thanks alot bro!
glad it worked out for you. $50 is a pretty good deal.
Excellent video! You really explained everything well and even included savings breakdown.
Thanks for checking it out
I was so glad to see this tutorial that didn't use flushing it out with de-ionized water. It really makes me nervous messing with the mixture and what not. I have heard about getting some kind of hydrometer or whatever the magical wondrous device is called, but I still would feel like I didn't know what I was doing, lol. At first it seemed kinda wasteful to just use all 50/50 to flush, but it makes complete sense especially to a novice like me! Thank you for making this, your videos are to the point and make sense.
Thanks for the feedback. You will still save money doing it yourself even if you just run 50/50 through it.
You're my hero doing this outside when there's snow on the ground. I'm from edmonton and it'd be way too cold to do that outside. Good job
lol. I recorded that on 7 March 2020. High of -12, low of -15. Edmonton can be a bit on the cool side between November and April. Thanks for watching.
@@DIYNorth yeah we had snow till may this year. Anyways keep the content coming especially for mazdas
After you unscrew that petcock, you use a flat head to pop it out further and then you will get full stream.
Thanks for the recommendation.
I watched one of these that was horrible. He called hose clamps C clamps and filled his whole system with demineralized water and ran it up to temp with only that in it; and I am pretty sure that is a mistake. I think you did very well not running water through the entire cooling system. I'm about to do my wife's 2012 mazda 3. Thank you.
its much easier to keep the water to coolant ratio correct if you never dilute it in the first place. when i did the math, you really don't save much by running a jug of water through it.
Great video. So helpful, thanks!! I love being able to DIY my maintenance and not depend on some misogynistic a-hole to overcharge for basic maintenance. Couple of differences on my 2013 (SV, not SA, and standard trans): I had to take the entire bottom splash plate off because everything was linked. And maybe it’s just me but the lame plastic petcock screw stripped out instantly with a regular large size Philips. Went to my local hardware store, found a wood chisel that was the exact right size and shape to fit the stupid giant screw and victory.
I'm glad you overcame the problem.
Thanks for checking out my video
For sure! Looking at that fastener I'm certain I don't have a Phillips head that's going to work. The edges are too shallow on that screw. A wood chisel is a great hack! I'm so happy to know so many women do their own vehicle maintenance on their cars nowadays. In 1982, I and my female cohorts were enrolled with one male student in Grade 10 Home Economics. Meh! I grew up on a farm and could probably have taught our teacher a thing or two about preserving food, cooking, baking, etc., but I was resigned to do what was expected of me. At least I thought I was! In the first week our teacher had us prepare sauerkraut sandwiches. Disgusting! When she tried to insist that I eat this vile thing, that was it. After class I marched down to the school office and requested a transfer to Introduction to Motor Mechanics. Ha! What a scandal! Dr. S attempted to give me the boot and in the days' long hullaballoo that followed, I was joined by two other of my female friends who thought it was all pretty funny, and that was that. We kicked ass. And all these years later, I still take care of my vehicles, I save money by doing alot of the maintenance myself, and I don't get ripped off when I contract for repairs. :)
loosening the petcock gave me a small stream as well and im in the warm US south. i bought too much coolant too.
Hopefully you can return some.
Better too much than too little
So how much coolant came out of the rad during the water flush? Just trying to figure out how much is left in the system so I can adjust the ratio. Great vid. Thx
I found it to be about 4 liters to refill the rad and expansion tank.
I agree with your procedure of using the FL22 instead of water to keep the same percentage. Great video. Question, how much is the FL22? I been thinking of suing Zerex Asian anti-freeze, costs about 12 bucks.
Obviously it depends on how many times you drain the radiator. I found that each time you drain the radiator you need about 4 Liters to refill it. If you drain and fill twice, then 8 Liters should be enough.
"If the "FL22" mark is shown on or near the coolant reservoir cap, Mazda recommends use of Mazda Genuine FL22 coolant. Cooling systems have become more refined and the chemical composition of coolants can vary widely. FL22 coolant was designed for this engine cooling system. Its use will optimize the operation of the cooling system, thereby preventing freezing, corrosion and extending the life of your engine. Engine coolant is not where you want to go for the cheap. I mean, really, saving 24 bucks and change does not make sense when you consider the potentially catastrophic costs involved in using the wrong mix. The engine in my Mazda 3 has aluminum parts that must be protected by an ethylene-glycol based coolant to prevent corrosion and freezing. The Owner's Manual quite emphatically states, "DO NOT USE coolants containing alcohol, methanol, borate or silicate. This could damage the coolant system. DO NOT MIX alcohol or methanol with the coolant. This could damage the cooling system. Don't use a solution that contains more than 60% antifreeze. This would reduce effectiveness." I used upper case text as it appears in my Owner's Manual. :)
So I see that you still used some de-ionized water but an extra flush with FL22. This means the ratio will not be 50/50 (but much better than a full water flush. Thoughts?
I really just used it to rinse the expansion tank. I doubt that very much remained in the radiator.
If you can get 100% coolant than you can adjust for the use of Deionized water. If all you can get is 50/50 it is hard to get back to a true 50/50 mix.
That is why I sometime just flush with coolant.
nice use of the holes in the top of the engine cover haha. Seriously tho great video helped me change my own and save some $$. Thanks bro.
There is a coffee holder in the engine bay of every vehicle if you look hard enough. Glad you saved some cash.
You flushed with new coolant? Why not use use deionized water?
It's because I could only get 50/50 mix at the time and I need to maintain a 50/50 ratio in this climate. Using straight water would drop the ratio down to 75 water 25 coolant (ish) and I would need straight coolant to bring it back to 50/50 ratio. If I use water, flush, and refill with 50/50 mix my ratio would still be too low and I would have to do everything again with another cycle of 50/50 mix.
Where does it say it needs fl22? I cant find it
its stamped into the reservoir tank very close to the overflow cap. Otherwise look at what it says in your user manual.
@@DIYNorth it's not there. My user manual is in german, there is no way i can find it there xD
@@TheMaverickq oh, when in doubt you can always call a mazda dealer parts department with your vin.number and let them figure it out
@@DIYNorth i figured, i wonder if fl22 does anything bad for non fl22
You forgot to turn on the heater!
lol. It was cold as hell out, I don't think I ever turned the heater off.
TFS
Thanks for watching
Manual has coolant capacity at 7.8 qts. So 8L will refill it. Didn’t the intermediate rinse/run consume another 8L? And why not rinse/run with just deionized water to save money?
So if you drain just the radiator as I did in this case you will only get about 4 L of coolant out, not the full 8 L. You would have to drain the engine block to get the other 4 L. Since I live in a climate that needs 50/50 water/coolant ratio to prevent freezing doing a run up with just water would bring the ratio to 25/75 coolant to water (ish), I would then need to fill it back with 100% concentrated coolant to get it back to 50/50. Since I only had 50/50 mix if I refilled the radiator my ratio would be off and to get it back to about the correct ratio I would have to do 2 cycles of the 50/50 mix after doing it once with the water. If you have the 100% concentrate, then yes it might save a bit of money ($15 or so), but if all you have is 50/50 it will cost more to get a correct ratio as the water would be a bit of an extra step. If you live in an area that never freezes and can run higher water content then it doesn't matter.
@@DIYNorth Ahh, yes, I see. Only about half is draining out. I didn’t pay attention to that before my post. So in the end, you would expect about 1/4 of the original fluid to be remaining in the system.
@@donaldslowik5009 Yes that sounds correct, basically draining the radiator will never achieve 100% new fluid in the system.
@@DIYNorth Does a shop/dealership perform the coolant flush and replacement more thoroughly than this? Would they have a means for draining the engine coolant out 100%?
It drained slow because you didn't pull the plug out. You just unscrewed it. There's still an o ring in there
Thanks for the feedback
So my issue is that the drain plug is out as far as it will (just spins) and almost nothing is dribbling out. Using a flat head in the lower drain groove to pry it seems a bit precious. Yours just came all the way out?