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This is actually scotty’s version of his “educational” genre. He’s told us he’s information for the truth and helping people understand their cars. Yes, i agree, it is different.
When I was a kid, the push lawnmower I was going to use didn't have a drop of oil in it. Not having any engine oil, I filled the crank case with cooking oil my mom had fried some fish in. After I cut for about 5 minutes, I looked back and there were about 20 cats following me.
My problem with synthetic-blends is that the ratio is not dislosed. It could be 2% synthetic and 98% conventional. Most people assume it's 50-50. I doubt it is though.
@@02hreblue30 Yes & check the difference in price between SuperTech full synthetic and Super Tech conventional. It's a no brainier to use the full synthetic. It protects better and is good for a longer change interval.
You're right... and I don't see the point of a blended oil. If you want longer oil change intervals, or live in an area of temperature extremes just go full synthetic. If that's not so important and you already know you are going to change at more frequent intervals (half the mileage the car maker says is a good guide) why not use the cheaper conventional oil.
I think when some body first time his /her life want self cahnge oil is better ask at good service how and find on local dealer what kind oil. I found that diesels "love" more first number is bigger and "petrol" enigne needed first number is lower. I self use my tiny 1,0L enigne 5 W -40 . Yes that "eat " of course 10 W -30 too but I live are wheres winter is cold -20 until minus30 Celsius ( 0 until minus 12 F ) .
I found it interesting. Still don't understand why anyone would still use conventional oil? Its maybe 5 bucks cheaper at my Wal Mart. Who on earth would use regular oil?
@@kevinbradley9601 cars built pre 95 tend to run better with conventional as the oil molecules in synthetic oil are smaller than in conventional oil and the smaller molecules are more likely to pass thru the seals as machining back pre 95 wasn't to as fine of a finish nor to as fine of tolerances.
@@kevinbradley9601 I used conventional valvoline in my dodge dakota and drove it 437,000 miles until it was totaled in a wreck. No minor or major engine work, it just kept going and going and I changed it every 5000 miles.
Am a woman, and back some 30 yrs ago, I had bought my first car. After putting 3,000 miles on it. I switched to synthetic 100 % oil. The car lasted for 10 yrs. Then I bought another vehicle, and to this day still use synthetic oil. My vehicle takes 5W30. This 2nd car has 184,000 miles and is still running in 2021! I hope to take it up to another 16,000 miles or more. I check my own oil!
Years ago NYC taxicabs would last for 500,000 miles using conventional oil. The main thing is to change it on time and avoid short trips where the engine never fully warms up. Those NYC cabs were running constantly. Cold starts are the biggest contributor to engine wear.
I have a car that we bought with 20k on it. I have used only conventional oil its whole life, always a good name brand. I change it every 3-5 thousand miles as well as the filter. It now has 220k on it and runs like a top. I think changing it means more than the type of oil you use, just my 2 cents.
@@MrNota500 I change mine frequently (5000k max miles on an oil change) and I use full synthetic pennzoil. I noticed with cheaper oil my truck would make a knocking sound on startup when cold and with the better oil it didn’t. Just my opinion
Years ago a guy at work started promoting amsoil. He even insisted it doesn't wear out it just gets impurities in it from the fuel. He bought a new 1968 Dodge and he was changing the filter at 5,000 miles, then the oil and filter at every 10,000 miles. The last time I spoke with him was about 1998. His engine had almost 300,000 miles on it and was still running great. Also, he was using amsoil in the transmission and it had NOT needed an overhaul.
@@ernestt4969 Good point. We need to fully trust that it is better and extend the mileage between oil changes. That way it is not so expensive. The Amsoil site is so bold as to suggest 20,000 miles between changes. I'm not that brave as yet. Long ago a friend from work was changing oil filter at 5,000, then oil and filter at 10,000. He had cars from the 60's up to 180,000 miles with no problems. So it really IS better. For the future I'm going with change at 10,000. Then I'm going to send the oil to a facility that tests it for breakdown. That can also let you know if the engine is beginning to show wear by the chemicals they detect in the used oil. A friend has been changing the oil and filter on his 2000 Harley at 5,000 since it had about 10,000 miles on it. It now has 88,000 miles and it's as quiet as a really low mileage engine.
Something else worth mentioning with thinner oils is that they flow really well immediately upon start up and can reach the top end of the motor sooner. Most of the engine wear occurs in the first few minutes upon start up, so getting oil where it needs to go as soon as possible it very important
Ya, too bad that 5w20 loses it ability to do its job over 70f. Find me one link that supports 5w20 at 95f or summer temperature. And no links to owners manuals as they have been falsified.
@@lonniebeal6032 It doesn’t lose its ability to do its job. It just becomes diminished. Obviously a higher viscousity heavier weight oil is going to be better at lubricating since it is going to be harder for the moving parts to push out of the way. Every oil has its advantages and disadvantages, no doubt about that.
@@lonniebeal6032 70F ? Go look up some viscosity vs temperature graphs that compare 5W20 all the way up to 20W50. Even at 260F 5W20 is in 5 percent max of 5W30, which is about within 10 percent of 5W40, which is within 13 percent or so of 5W50. When your in operating temp 5W20 is only slightly off of 5W30 when it comes to synthetic oils. Actually the hotter you go the closer the variance is, up the temps to 300F and the difference is even smaller. XW20 weight oils have been out since 2002, and started getting used regularly in 2011 or so. If they did not do their job above ambient temperatures of 70F, Toyota, Honda, Chrysler-Fiat and Ford would be having a lot more in warranty issues and updated oil recommendations for older vehicles. Honda and Toyota have been using 0W20 in pretty much all of their 4 and 6 cylinder engines since 2012. 9 years later and there is still no updated oil ratings for those vehicles. This is as silly as everyone arguing 20 years ago about 5W30 being too thin and how all the engines calling for it were going to die of oil related issues, and going against the manufacturer ratings and running 5/10W40 instead. Meanwhile every car our family owns runs 5W30 and have anywhere from 90K to 550K miles with no oil related engine issues whatsoever. Unless you are making modifications that change engine requirements, or are in an unusually severe service tier, your best off using the recommendation in terms of viscosity that the manufacturer built the engine too. Engines are usualy being developed around the newest current oil standards. Or in some cases, a new oil standard is being developed around a new engine that has new requirements.
I knew it was Scotty when the animation showed the crank throws running through the oil in the sump. Only an imbecile (like Scotty) would try to show knowledge with such a ludicrous example.. Reminds me of the cracked laminated door glass in the Charger video he made a while back.
Awesome video as always Scotty! With so many people using full synthetic now days in their vehicles I always wondered how many of those quick oil change places rip people off and put conventional oil in when they require full synthetic! This is why I try to change my own oil.
Yeah of course, they buy in bulk and find the cheapest stuff they can get. If that was the only problem it would not be bad. Its when they forget to put oil in it at all.
Also they might not allow enough time for the old oil to drain out,or they might use a very cheap substandard oil filter. Or use the oil filter they just removed from a car that they serviced before yours.
I learned a lot here. As a kid, I watched my dad change oil all the time. I know how to do it, but never stopped to think of all the other things pointed out in this video. Thanks!
I've changed to Pennzoil full synthetic(ultra platinum 5w30) in my 2014 XLT F150 and i still change it every 5-6k miles. Prior, i used semi-synthetic blend... it was ok, but after 3k miles or so i would hear knocking and slight skipping every once in a while. Since the change over to the Pennzoil full synthetic, it hasn't skipped a beat. Better gas mileage and it's running smoother and quieter in all season months here in NC. Also, put in my wife's 2020 Jeep Rubicon and that even makes a world of difference. Maybe her Jeep will make it past 100k. ;)
You can get full synthetic from Costco called Kirkland Sgnature full synthetic. $12.50 for 5 quarts comes with 10 QTS in a box. Cheaper than conventional oil and made by a reputable company as well.
@@Brandon-uy1uv I work at autozone. We don't have a bundle deal for $23 and we don't sell bosh filters. We especially don't have oil deals with name brand filters so not sure what you are talking about buddy
@@smallbeans101 He's in Mexico. What a company does in one country can be a little different in another. For example, last time I was in Canada, you could get a pizza at McDonald's. McDonald's in America does not serve pizza.
Magnets attached to the outside of the new oil filter after a change works great too!. Collects minute particles metal preventing them from going through your engine!
I love this style of video Scotty! Please keep making them! I am more confused now about the oil in my car than before. I will get it eventually! Awesome video!
You might have also added on the "higher viscosity is better" myth, Scotty, that use of a "thicker" oil than recommended can impede flow throughout the engine, especially where these exotic, by standards of a few generations ago, "twin-cammer" engines with the OHCs and extensive valvetrains. There's a difference between viscosity and lubricity, although they're related. Oil has to GET to the parts in order to lubricate them!
Also some of these engines have limited angle rotational joints on their camshafts that can advance and/or retard the actual working part of the camshaft a calibrated amount relative to the driven end of the shaft,this thing is operated by putting oil under pressure into one or another port/chamfer feeding the limited angle actuator and the oil needs to be of very low viscosity to flow fast enough and also the tiniest amount of varnishing could totally mess the thing up
@@0penEyesAndMind51 If the engine has enough wear that a more viscous oil makes a difference, it's a "tired" engine that's in need of a rebuild. But, if it's not going to be driven a lot, subjected to severe conditions, or taken where a breakdown could be disastrous, then 40W oil is CHEAP.
@@selfdo actually the theory his a higher viscous or thicker oil is better for old engines. If you are left with only oil on the pistons you want a lower viscosity oil so there is more left on all moving parts
@@0penEyesAndMind51 but the oil recommendation isnt about the heat of the climate. Once the engine is up to temp it doesnt matter how hot it gets outside. What matters is that the oil is able to effectively get between components. This means the recommended viscosity at temp is determined by the tolerancing and design of the engine, whereas the recommended viscosity on cold starts is determined by the climate.
I've always been sceptical about additives. I THINK that the dura-lube regiment that was used in my '97 Sierra 1500 with the 5.7 Vortec that I was the second owner of and continued with, worked. As I sold it at 430000km still going strong. I KNOW that the Amsoil AR9100 did absolute wonders for my '06 F-350 6.0 Powerstroke.
Older guy I worked with said " if the additive worked so well don't you think it would have been added from the refinery " . My wife had a dodge caliber , little disposable car . Used whatever 5-20 synthetic oil that was on sale at Canadian tire , had 525,000 kilometers when sold . I am sold on synthetic oil
My 2012 Sienna is at 479,000 km, always used 0-20W synthetic and for much of its's life I changed every 15,000 km because it was 90% hwy driving. Then about 300,000 km, Toyota said change every 8,000 km anyway, because we get cold winters in Alberta so I do. It doesn't use any oil, runs smoothly.
Well, there you go Judy..... TV is for people who need entertaining without calling on brainpower..... Watching youtube is for those who WANT to exercise their brain cells. Use 'em or lose 'em, I always say. Welcome aboard!
Knowledge is power! Also I haven’t had cable tv for at least 5 years now. No point. Netflix, UA-cam, and Tubi is all I use. Football is the only thing on live tv I still watch so I have a digital antenna for that and if the game is on espn my parents still pay for cable and I’ll just use the login for their Comcast account to stream it on the espn app! Also cable has nothing that great anymore since most people use streaming services now, therefore all the money to make a show or to pay actors is mostly in the streaming companies, oh and commercials suck and are annoying. Never realized how short the shows on mtv actually were until they started appearing on Netflix.
I got High Milage / Synthetic oil, and it seems to work the best out of these three basic engine oil types. No leaks, and no evaporation. And it's viscosity has not degraded. I usually have these problems with other oils.
Some people claim that one brand or another makes their engine run quieter. I think with the spooky low viscosities like 0w-20 or this newfangled 0w-16 it is likely that such oils can only be made stable and evaporation resistant enough to be practical by using synthetic base material.
@@tjlee9901 Some viscosity modifiers "viscosity index improvers" (thickeners) as were used in some popular 10w-40 oils during the 1970s and'80s were adjudicated by Tecumseh Engine engineers to have been unsuitable for use in internal combustion engines and I think later GM engineers decided this was true of GM Car and Truck engines--remember the revision made to the 1980 Chevrolet Citation owner's manual
Where do you get your oil viscosity tested, and how often? How much oil evaporates over what period of time? Oil leaks aren't caused by oil, they're a result of inferior gaskets or seals or poor installation practices.
Years ago I got hooked on Castrol 20W50 for 4 cyl summer driving and Castrol 10W40 for winter. I had a Ford Ranger once that was a 6 cyl. Changing the tranny at 170,000 miles we noticed a rear main seal leak and decided to replace it, which meant dropping the oil pan and taking out the oil pump because it was in the way of removing the pan. Since it was out, and a pump had to be put back in, I decided to save the labor costs and at $130 replace the pump. Smart move. My point...the oil pan looked like it had just come from the factory with 0% sludge. Not even slighty discolored. I had to run my finger down the bottom of the pan and look it at in the light to see the shine of any oil evidence. CHANGE THE OIL became my new mantra. Good video Scotty.
As a tech I always recommend people to change their oil 1000-2000 miles earlier than what the manufacturer recommends if they drive their cars hard. Last thing you want is worn out dirty oil trying to lubricate a high power motor at its top end power
J Thomas. A lot of filters these days are good for 10k miles so I can see that. For me, since they are so cheap I change it with every oil change I do for my cars and my customers. At the end of the day it wont hurt anything.
My ‘21 RAV4 gets 0w16 (either Toyota brand or Mobil1) and the oem Toyota filter. I let it go 5k-7k miles between changes, change the filter every change, and do it myself. I just don’t trust anyone to do it right, and with ramps and a creeper it takes me maybe 15 minutes.
An aircraft engineer once told me oil is cheaper than engine parts, and/or having the engine repaired....I use a motorcycle that is recommended oil specific to its engine...ie: full synthetic...a wet cutch is also factored into the equation. I always change the oil and filter long before the recommended period...
I would believe all this but.... Over seas they don't have near the selections of motor oil to choose from. They just run what's available. They also don't have near the brakedowns and those motors over there just hum along.
Hey Scotty, How about a video for Classic Muscle Car oil that should be used with the older - non-roller cams. I bet people would enjoy a video on that too!
I'm impressed, never would I have thought I'd hear you talk in a near normal voice AND talk sense at the same time. Would the real Scotty please stand up.
@@slurryz No reason to change unless the oil consumption has gone up but even then I would try switching brands or switching to high mileage oil before I would play around with changing the viscosity.
I agree all I've ever used was regular conventional oil in all the cars i've had and knock on wood my engines have lasted and on my ranger i used regular oil and i drove that thing hard with stop and go driving delivery and i've changed my oil every 3,000 miles sometimes i've gone more than that but usually 3,000 miles
Agreed. Liqui-Molly makes excellent products. Can’t go wrong. Made in Germany. Especially made/aimed for European car brands. Porsche, VW, BMW, Merc....but equally suitable for any brand.
AMSOIL I put 325K on my 1985 B2000 Mazda pick-up. Bought it new. Installed a bypass filter that completely filters the oil. I only changed the oil 5 times over 13 years and 325,000 miles. The truck ran like a top and was clean as a whistle inside the engine. Spotless when I would adjust the valves. AMSOIL👍 Sold truck because I got tired of driving it.
I'm a car, yes I'm only a car.. and I'm sitting in the driveway..oh my now..My oil's low and it's dirty too. Oh I hope and pray that today I will get my oil changed... Nah, doesn't lend itself well to that.
Hello Scotty, that was interesting, but how about doing a similar video for the many Diesel car drivers here in the UK and The rest of the world. The newer Euro 5 and 6 emission standards , can lead to slight oil dilution when the DPF self cleans. We have all been doing less miles during lock down so how do we stand doing only a few short journeys per month. The oil looks fine ( Dexos 2} but the condition reading on my car is now at 17% . Thank You 👍👍
The number after the "w" is not the summer viscosity. It denotes how the oil behaves at the engine operating temperature. There are other statements by Scotty that are somewhat out-dated.
Bravo. You answered my question about how often to change my 2021 accord oil filter. Dealer recommend every other oil change but after watching this. I will change every oil change.
Although the W number is for cold weather. It still is thicker than running temp of any viscosity. Meaning, it's not just for winter. The 0w40 oil for instance will protect engine from cold start (95% of wear is cold start up) whether in cold climate areas or hot. 10w40 for instance will still cause more cold start wear than a 0w40, whether in Russian winter or Chicago summer. lower is always best no matter ;)
Yeah im confused as to why he was talking about hot ambient temperature. The hot viscosity is based on the engine being hot, not the weather being hot. Lower cold viscosity means it will protect your engine better on cold starts, hot viscosity is just the viscosity that your particular engine needs when its running at regular operating temp, which is always hotter than the ambient temp.
Mine use full synthetic and they have been really good for 10k mile before another full oil change. I ditch conventional oils for full synthetic oil on all my cars.
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621 Good point. My opinion is no. I do at least one drain and fill a year cause I know my transmission runs 15⁰ to 20⁰ higher than it should during the summer.
@@masterofnone1808 thank you for your reply. I own a grand cherokee and I've seen here on UA-cam transmission maintenance interval but I see that it is very specialized and detailed procedure.
This Truck Just Delivered My Dream Car: ua-cam.com/video/KWJHCWyLFxc/v-deo.html
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⬇️ Things used in this video:
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Scott is it ok to start using full synthetic oil in my truck if its over 150000 miles even if it only requires regular oil
Why do you say all the time ( Stupit People)?
They are not stupit, Not all people are mecanic like you, don't say Stupit People again ok?
What is the best injector cleaner on the market and why ?
Hi scotty...
What kind of oil do you recommend for my2008 lexus is250 ..?
He's the most genuine ❤
So weird to hear scotty being calm and not seeing him wave his hands...
👋
It's not Scotty....it's an imposter!😆
He actually sounds sane and mature.
If Scotty were to get arrested and handcuffed, he wouldn't be able to talk to the police to explain what he was doing when he was arrested.
This is actually scotty’s version of his “educational” genre. He’s told us he’s information for the truth and helping people understand their cars. Yes, i agree, it is different.
When I was a kid, the push lawnmower I was going to use didn't have a drop of oil in it.
Not having any engine oil, I filled the crank case with cooking oil my mom had fried some fish in.
After I cut for about 5 minutes, I looked back and there were about 20 cats following me.
Thank you for the laugh!
Dang!😂😂😂
@RepentandbelieveinJesusChristshut up
Bahahahaha
It wasn’t the oil, baby. Same thing as the flies that you attract.
This guy can turn anyone into a car expert by watching all of his in depth videos! Simple and informative! Keep up the great work Scotty!
Scotty,
The soothing, helpful way you explained things this time actually lifted me out of a very down mood. Thank you
My problem with synthetic-blends is that the ratio is not dislosed. It could be 2% synthetic and 98% conventional. Most people assume it's 50-50. I doubt it is though.
there is now zero advantage to using it also, as its the same price as comparable synthetic
@@02hreblue30 Yes & check the difference in price between SuperTech full synthetic and Super Tech conventional. It's a no brainier to use the full synthetic. It protects better and is good for a longer change interval.
You're right... and I don't see the point of a blended oil. If you want longer oil change intervals, or live in an area of temperature extremes just go full synthetic. If that's not so important and you already know you are going to change at more frequent intervals (half the mileage the car maker says is a good guide) why not use the cheaper conventional oil.
I think when some body first time his /her life want self cahnge oil is better ask at good service how and find on local dealer what kind oil. I found that diesels "love" more first number is bigger and "petrol" enigne needed first number is lower. I self use my tiny 1,0L enigne 5 W -40 . Yes that "eat " of course 10 W -30 too but I live are wheres winter is cold -20 until minus30 Celsius ( 0 until minus 12 F ) .
In such a case I'd either just buy dino or full-synthetic. A blend is not really giving you any of the advantages of either type.
Instead of 7 myths, he gave us a full lecture. You are the best Scotty
This is basic oil change talk, nothing new or interesting.
I found it interesting. Still don't understand why anyone would still use conventional oil? Its maybe 5 bucks cheaper at my Wal Mart. Who on earth would use regular oil?
@@kevinbradley9601 Some older cars just run better on conventional
@@kevinbradley9601 cars built pre 95 tend to run better with conventional as the oil molecules in synthetic oil are smaller than in conventional oil and the smaller molecules are more likely to pass thru the seals as machining back pre 95 wasn't to as fine of a finish nor to as fine of tolerances.
@@kevinbradley9601 I used conventional valvoline in my dodge dakota and drove it 437,000 miles until it was totaled in a wreck. No minor or major engine work, it just kept going and going and I changed it every 5000 miles.
Hope all is well scotty! Thank you from all of us for the great content over the years, much appreciated
Is this Scotty on various accounts complimenting himself again.! LOL.
Am a woman, and back some 30 yrs ago, I had bought my first car. After putting 3,000 miles on it. I switched to synthetic 100 % oil. The car lasted for 10 yrs. Then I bought another vehicle, and to this day still use synthetic oil. My vehicle takes 5W30. This 2nd car has 184,000 miles and is still running in 2021! I hope to take it up to another 16,000 miles or more. I check my own oil!
How frequently do you change?
Years ago NYC taxicabs would last for 500,000 miles using conventional oil. The main thing is to change it on time and avoid short trips where the engine never fully warms up. Those NYC cabs were running constantly. Cold starts are the biggest contributor to engine wear.
I have a car that we bought with 20k on it. I have used only conventional oil its whole life, always a good name brand. I change it every 3-5 thousand miles as well as the filter. It now has 220k on it and runs like a top. I think changing it means more than the type of oil you use, just my 2 cents.
@@MrNota500 I change mine frequently (5000k max miles on an oil change) and I use full synthetic pennzoil. I noticed with cheaper oil my truck would make a knocking sound on startup when cold and with the better oil it didn’t. Just my opinion
@@masterofnone1808 taxis are always running also. On off cycles wears it out quicker.
I'm not used too listening to Scotty at this level. I feel relaxed. Thank you Scotty I appreciate all you're vídeos.
Years ago a guy at work started promoting amsoil.
He even insisted it doesn't wear out it just gets impurities in it from the fuel.
He bought a new 1968 Dodge and he was changing the filter at 5,000 miles, then the oil and filter at every 10,000 miles. The last time I spoke with him was about 1998. His engine had almost 300,000 miles on it and was still running great. Also, he was using amsoil in the transmission and it had NOT needed an overhaul.
Amsoil is the best but only makes sense to use if you keep your vehicle for a very long time. It’s expensive.
@@ernestt4969 Good point.
We need to fully trust that it is better and extend the mileage between oil changes. That way it is not so expensive. The Amsoil site is so bold as to suggest 20,000 miles between changes. I'm not that brave as yet. Long ago a friend from work was changing oil filter at 5,000, then oil and filter at 10,000. He had cars from the 60's up to 180,000 miles with no problems. So it really IS better. For the future I'm going with change at 10,000. Then I'm going to send the oil to a facility that tests it for breakdown. That can also let you know if the engine is beginning to show wear by the chemicals they detect in the used oil.
A friend has been changing the oil and filter on his 2000 Harley at 5,000 since it had about 10,000 miles on it. It now has 88,000 miles and it's as quiet as a really low mileage engine.
Something else worth mentioning with thinner oils is that they flow really well immediately upon start up and can reach the top end of the motor sooner. Most of the engine wear occurs in the first few minutes upon start up, so getting oil where it needs to go as soon as possible it very important
When starting my car (regardless if the engine is a hard cold or hot), I always wait a minute or two before putting the car in gear.
Ya, too bad that 5w20 loses it ability to do its job over 70f. Find me one link that supports 5w20 at 95f or summer temperature. And no links to owners manuals as they have been falsified.
@@lonniebeal6032 It doesn’t lose its ability to do its job. It just becomes diminished. Obviously a higher viscousity heavier weight oil is going to be better at lubricating since it is going to be harder for the moving parts to push out of the way.
Every oil has its advantages and disadvantages, no doubt about that.
@@lonniebeal6032 70F ? Go look up some viscosity vs temperature graphs that compare 5W20 all the way up to 20W50. Even at 260F 5W20 is in 5 percent max of 5W30, which is about within 10 percent of 5W40, which is within 13 percent or so of 5W50. When your in operating temp 5W20 is only slightly off of 5W30 when it comes to synthetic oils. Actually the hotter you go the closer the variance is, up the temps to 300F and the difference is even smaller. XW20 weight oils have been out since 2002, and started getting used regularly in 2011 or so. If they did not do their job above ambient temperatures of 70F, Toyota, Honda, Chrysler-Fiat and Ford would be having a lot more in warranty issues and updated oil recommendations for older vehicles. Honda and Toyota have been using 0W20 in pretty much all of their 4 and 6 cylinder engines since 2012. 9 years later and there is still no updated oil ratings for those vehicles.
This is as silly as everyone arguing 20 years ago about 5W30 being too thin and how all the engines calling for it were going to die of oil related issues, and going against the manufacturer ratings and running 5/10W40 instead. Meanwhile every car our family owns runs 5W30 and have anywhere from 90K to 550K miles with no oil related engine issues whatsoever.
Unless you are making modifications that change engine requirements, or are in an unusually severe service tier, your best off using the recommendation in terms of viscosity that the manufacturer built the engine too. Engines are usualy being developed around the newest current oil standards. Or in some cases, a new oil standard is being developed around a new engine that has new requirements.
@@CondoreComputing You are quite the tribologist.
Wow, Scottie really stepped up the production on his videos :)
I've been a fan for a long time and its good to see him evolve.
Scotty is one of the most useful people on UA-cam out there. You cant change my mind.
Agreed 100%
He does lots of great video's. I've leaned so much from him.
@@louishumphreys5451 bro i I have to agree with that
Absolutely!! 👍
bingo.
I'm retired now, but if I still had my shop this channel would have been perfect to run on out TV in the waiting room lol..
Every time I watch Scotty I learn stuff.
Imposter! The real Scotty Kilmer would never need such a high quality produced video to put his point across!
*"NO CHEESE FOR YOUR WHINE!!"*
🤣 I admit it, it was a good pivot for him.
I knew it was Scotty when the animation showed the crank throws running through the oil in the sump. Only an imbecile (like Scotty) would try to show knowledge with such a ludicrous example.. Reminds me of the cracked laminated door glass in the Charger video he made a while back.
@@danielfennell4264 So, your watching videos of someone ‘you’ consider to be an imbecile? 😂😂😂🤪
Not sure if you were kidding. But I am pretty sure this is really Scott.. . The site has over 4 million subscribers.
Awesome video as always Scotty! With so many people using full synthetic now days in their vehicles I always wondered how many of those quick oil change places rip people off and put conventional oil in when they require full synthetic! This is why I try to change my own oil.
Yeah of course, they buy in bulk and find the cheapest stuff they can get. If that was the only problem it would not be bad. Its when they forget to put oil in it at all.
Also they might not allow enough time for the old oil to drain out,or they might use a very cheap substandard oil filter. Or use the oil filter they just removed from a car that they serviced before yours.
@@davidpowell3347 l
@@MrNota500 As if. Every place I've ever gone shows me the dipstick level after changing.
A totally different Scotty when he’s narrating these informative videos. (I especially liked his video on the history of Lexus) Nice job as always!
I learned a lot here. As a kid, I watched my dad change oil all the time. I know how to do it, but never stopped to think of all the other things pointed out in this video. Thanks!
Scotty done come a long way, with graphics and everythang. Good stuff!
I've changed to Pennzoil full synthetic(ultra platinum 5w30) in my 2014 XLT F150 and i still change it every 5-6k miles. Prior, i used semi-synthetic blend... it was ok, but after 3k miles or so i would hear knocking and slight skipping every once in a while. Since the change over to the Pennzoil full synthetic, it hasn't skipped a beat. Better gas mileage and it's running smoother and quieter in all season months here in NC. Also, put in my wife's 2020 Jeep Rubicon and that even makes a world of difference. Maybe her Jeep will make it past 100k. ;)
PUP is FANTASTIC oil
you talk like a commercial lol
2020 jeeps are supposed to use full synthetic oil, read your wife's owners manual, u not so bright person
Scotty, you are no doubt the most informative channel on UA-cam..
Scotty is my dad
I've used full synthetic in my cars for the last 2 decades or so. Sure, it's expensive each time, but new engines aren't cheap!
You can get full synthetic from Costco called Kirkland Sgnature full synthetic. $12.50 for 5 quarts comes with 10 QTS in a box. Cheaper than conventional oil and made by a reputable company as well.
@@900Yugo I use the autozone brand as there is no costo nearby here in mexico. $23 usd for 4 quarts of synthetic oil and a Bosch "premium" filter.
@@Brandon-uy1uv I work at autozone. We don't have a bundle deal for $23 and we don't sell bosh filters. We especially don't have oil deals with name brand filters so not sure what you are talking about buddy
@@smallbeans101 He's in Mexico. What a company does in one country can be a little different in another. For example, last time I was in Canada, you could get a pizza at McDonald's. McDonald's in America does not serve pizza.
@@smallbeans101 Autozone has stores in Mexico. So selection can be different between countries.
Magnets attached to the outside of the new oil filter after a change works great too!. Collects minute particles metal preventing them from going through your engine!
Thank you, thank you, thank you. This answered every question I had and gave me confidence in explaining my cars oil issues with a mechanic.
I love this style of video Scotty! Please keep making them! I am more confused now about the oil in my car than before. I will get it eventually! Awesome video!
You might have also added on the "higher viscosity is better" myth, Scotty, that use of a "thicker" oil than recommended can impede flow throughout the engine, especially where these exotic, by standards of a few generations ago, "twin-cammer" engines with the OHCs and extensive valvetrains. There's a difference between viscosity and lubricity, although they're related. Oil has to GET to the parts in order to lubricate them!
Also some of these engines have limited angle rotational joints on their camshafts that can advance and/or retard the actual working part of the camshaft a calibrated amount relative to the driven end of the shaft,this thing is operated by putting oil under pressure into one or another port/chamfer feeding the limited angle actuator and the oil needs to be of very low viscosity to flow fast enough and also the tiniest amount of varnishing could totally mess the thing up
He explained pretty clearly to me which cases thicker oil is better, hotter climates and higher milage
@@0penEyesAndMind51 If the engine has enough wear that a more viscous oil makes a difference, it's a "tired" engine that's in need of a rebuild. But, if it's not going to be driven a lot, subjected to severe conditions, or taken where a breakdown could be disastrous, then 40W oil is CHEAP.
@@selfdo actually the theory his a higher viscous or thicker oil is better for old engines. If you are left with only oil on the pistons you want a lower viscosity oil so there is more left on all moving parts
@@0penEyesAndMind51 but the oil recommendation isnt about the heat of the climate. Once the engine is up to temp it doesnt matter how hot it gets outside. What matters is that the oil is able to effectively get between components. This means the recommended viscosity at temp is determined by the tolerancing and design of the engine, whereas the recommended viscosity on cold starts is determined by the climate.
Synthetic oil may cost more but lasts longer & does a much better job. Well worth the cost .
I've always been sceptical about additives.
I THINK that the dura-lube regiment that was used in my '97 Sierra 1500 with the 5.7 Vortec that I was the second owner of and continued with, worked. As I sold it at 430000km still going strong.
I KNOW that the Amsoil AR9100 did absolute wonders for my '06 F-350 6.0 Powerstroke.
Older guy I worked with said " if the additive worked so well don't you think it would have been added from the refinery " . My wife had a dodge caliber , little disposable car . Used whatever 5-20 synthetic oil that was on sale at Canadian tire , had 525,000 kilometers when sold . I am sold on synthetic oil
My 2012 Sienna is at 479,000 km, always used 0-20W synthetic and for much of its's life I changed every 15,000 km because it was 90% hwy driving. Then about 300,000 km, Toyota said change every 8,000 km anyway, because we get cold winters in Alberta so I do. It doesn't use any oil, runs smoothly.
When I bought my new (used) car, a Volvo S60, I decided to only use full synthetics. I want this car to last.
Really digging the new video you’re trying looked and sounded great keep up the great works Scotty!
I’m female...learning to s of info about cars & maintenance from Scotty. I’m spending more free time on UA-cam then I am watching TV nowadays
ditch the tv, its no longer required .... havent had it in 15 years.
Well, there you go Judy.....
TV is for people who need entertaining without calling on brainpower.....
Watching youtube is for those who WANT to exercise their brain cells.
Use 'em or lose 'em, I always say. Welcome aboard!
Knowledge is power! Also I haven’t had cable tv for at least 5 years now. No point. Netflix, UA-cam, and Tubi is all I use. Football is the only thing on live tv I still watch so I have a digital antenna for that and if the game is on espn my parents still pay for cable and I’ll just use the login for their Comcast account to stream it on the espn app! Also cable has nothing that great anymore since most people use streaming services now, therefore all the money to make a show or to pay actors is mostly in the streaming companies, oh and commercials suck and are annoying. Never realized how short the shows on mtv actually were until they started appearing on Netflix.
When I car pool I find there are 3 dipsticks in the car, not including the one in the engine.
@@666dynomax TV? Oh, that screen I cast You Tube videos on.
Good lubrication... all of my vehicles have clean oil in them ...oil is cheap a new engine is expensive 💩🤘
Exactly, seen cars that shouldn’t run as good as they do because the owners do their maintenance religiously
@@V8dadmartin **religiously**. Never thought about using a word religious like that lol!
I guess I was fortunate. I started using Mobil 1 when it was first available. Never had an issue in my 1971 240Z, even with 150,000 miles!
One of the most informative and best videos on UA-cam regarding anything mechanical. Fantastic, Scotty! 🖖✌️🤘🏎️
Finally a nice video where Scotty ISN"T yelling. Keep it up
It’s not the first time
I got High Milage / Synthetic oil, and it seems to work the best out of these three basic engine oil types. No leaks, and no evaporation. And it's viscosity has not degraded. I usually have these problems with other oils.
i read that even 5w-20 conventional oil is quite stable because it doesnt need so much viscosity modifiers to give the 5-----20 viscosity spread .
Some people claim that one brand or another makes their engine run quieter. I think with the spooky low viscosities like 0w-20 or this newfangled 0w-16 it is likely that such oils can only be made stable and evaporation resistant enough to be practical by using synthetic base material.
@@tjlee9901 Some viscosity modifiers "viscosity index improvers" (thickeners) as were used in some popular 10w-40 oils during the 1970s and'80s were adjudicated by Tecumseh Engine engineers to have been unsuitable for use in internal combustion engines and I think later GM engineers decided this was true of GM Car and Truck engines--remember the revision made to the 1980 Chevrolet Citation owner's manual
Where do you get your oil viscosity tested, and how often? How much oil evaporates over what period of time?
Oil leaks aren't caused by oil, they're a result of inferior gaskets or seals or poor installation practices.
Why isn't this content on Discovery.. like always another great video from Scotty..
Because it’s common sense that’s in your owners manual.
Are people that dumb that this needs to be on discovery?? Change your damn oil man
😂... discovery???? Wtf
@@tonyz6421 crazy! Isn’t it. All the self congratulatory comments are Scottys team, look at every video and you’ll see it’s like clockwork. L O L
@@spaceexplorer6636
Woke!
Years ago I got hooked on Castrol 20W50 for 4 cyl summer driving and Castrol 10W40 for winter. I had a Ford Ranger once that was a 6 cyl. Changing the tranny at 170,000 miles we noticed a rear main seal leak and decided to replace it, which meant dropping the oil pan and taking out the oil pump because it was in the way of removing the pan. Since it was out, and a pump had to be put back in, I decided to save the labor costs and at $130 replace the pump. Smart move. My point...the oil pan looked like it had just come from the factory with 0% sludge. Not even slighty discolored. I had to run my finger down the bottom of the pan and look it at in the light to see the shine of any oil evidence. CHANGE THE OIL became my new mantra. Good video Scotty.
Yet another great video, thank you for clearing up the difference of the oils!!
I love this new educational format Scotty. The animations are great. Keep it up please.
Except he's teaching things that are wrong and outdated lol
@@Danielsyoutubechannel5 Like what?
As a tech I always recommend people to change their oil 1000-2000 miles earlier than what the manufacturer recommends if they drive their cars hard. Last thing you want is worn out dirty oil trying to lubricate a high power motor at its top end power
Would using 5w30 in an engine that calls for 5w20 hurt it?
One of my Owner's Manuals specifically recommends changing the filter every other oil change.
J Thomas. A lot of filters these days are good for 10k miles so I can see that. For me, since they are so cheap I change it with every oil change I do for my cars and my customers. At the end of the day it wont hurt anything.
@@vigilantemotors To me it's a waste, but then my vehicles rarely even see dirt roads so there isn't much dirt on/around the engine.
@@jthomas3773 I can appreciate that lol. Most last close to 10K so yeah all is good
Changing the filter only at the second change is the same as changing a baby's diaper and using the original diaper because it wasn't full yet...
My ‘21 RAV4 gets 0w16 (either Toyota brand or Mobil1) and the oem Toyota filter. I let it go 5k-7k miles between changes, change the filter every change, and do it myself. I just don’t trust anyone to do it right, and with ramps and a creeper it takes me maybe 15 minutes.
Good Evening Scotty !!!
evening!
Thank you, Scotty. For sharing all the knowledge!
Same knowledge that’s in your owners manual
I always was taught that the multi-viscosity oils was pour weight (w) viscosity after it warms up
Ie: 10w40 is 10 weight that becomes 40 viscosity.
Your correct, Scotty has no idea what he's talking about and he says dumb things all the time
I came across some full syntenic motor put it in 3 2000-year model cars Mercedes SLK, Ford Cobra. and a SVU AND ALL 3 SUDDENLY HAD OIL LEAKS.
Love your videos Scotty
dont forget to put oil in your car before you rev up your engines 😁
No, no!! Put the oil in your ENGINE before you rev it! Pouring the oil all over the interior really won't help. :)
@No Turbo , Tell that to the guys at Walmart that forgot to put oil in the car lol!
Put oil in your gas tank you simpleton
replace the oil with gas and put oil in the gas tank
I love your videos Scotty, always so well put together and you’re always just being yourself.
Is this Scotty?
@@spaceexplorer6636 no.
Yo the production quality in this is phenomenal. Great job Scotty!
3:27 That bee just drowned itself... with honey...
An aircraft engineer once told me oil is cheaper than engine parts, and/or having the engine repaired....I use a motorcycle that is recommended oil specific to its engine...ie: full synthetic...a wet cutch is also factored into the equation. I always change the oil and filter long before the recommended period...
Myth Number 8: Scotty Kilmer's videos get to the point without a dawn-of-time backstory.
Without Scotty waving his hands everywhere, I didn't understand any of it.
Great video, Scotty! Very informative and to the point. No unnecessary chit chat. Best video on motor oil I’ve ever seen. Great job!
You must be a family number! LOL
I would believe all this but....
Over seas they don't have near the selections of motor oil to choose from. They just run what's available. They also don't have near the brakedowns and those motors over there just hum along.
Fit top quality filter and you are fine to change it every other change .If it's good for Toyota recommendation it's good for me .
Hi Scotty. I really like this style of video. Excellent!
Hell yeah. New episode!!!
Your life complete now! Lol
Hey Scotty, How about a video for Classic Muscle Car oil that should be used with the older - non-roller cams. I bet people would enjoy a video on that too!
I'm impressed, never would I have thought I'd hear you talk in a near normal voice AND talk sense at the same time. Would the real Scotty please stand up.
Keep up the good Work on your Vid‘s Scotty … it‘s all
comprehensible
and fun to watch !
This is a priceless information right here. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻❤️
Same information that’s in your owners manual, LOL.
Their is an "Automotive Oil Change Association"? Let me guess, they recommend changing your oil every 37 miles. LOL!
Another brilliant education video by Scotty that I enjoy watching with undivided attention. Professor. Scotty Kilmer
Great information
Name brand oils give us a sense of security. $3-5/gallon does not make-or-break a purchase! We spend that on a cup of coffee and we don't bat an eye!
Would have like scotty to talk realistically about what oil weights are more useful for old, high mileage engines (regardless of what the manual says)
Old engines were designed for use with conventional oil. So that what I'd stick to.
Scotty is not a engineer he’s just a old mechanic. So your owners manual is your guide not someone’s opinion that may be inaccurate.
So my 98 Camry with 230,000 miles should still run 5w-30 and not worry about excessive oil getting past the rings?
@@slurryz, as long as it's synthetic.
@@slurryz
No reason to change unless the oil consumption has gone up but even then I would try switching brands or switching to high mileage oil before I would play around with changing the viscosity.
I don't know but I've got over 390,000 miles on my 98 Chevy v8 with conventional oil. I don't think this new style oil will do better.
I agree all I've ever used was regular conventional oil in all the cars i've had and knock on wood my engines have lasted and on my ranger i used regular oil and i drove that thing hard with stop and go driving delivery and i've changed my oil every 3,000 miles sometimes i've gone more than that but usually 3,000 miles
You likely changed oil every 3 to 5k Miles....a waste of time and oil...generally 2 to 3x the cost of synthetic oil
You taught me in 11 minutes what my dad has been trying to teach me for the past 5 years
Lol
Probably because Scotty is wrong and you can't listen to your dad
honestly my car run's way smother & better using all these tips & especially the car maintenance videos! Very educational
Thanks for the update on the oil and old changes. I will have to get my done promptly and will use the correct oil for my 2004 Honda CR-V.
What happened to the " rev up your engines " did not seem like a scotty video without that intro
GrowMaster - As loyal followers of Scotty we really need "rev up your engines".
He didn't have a low viscosity oil for cold rev ups
Maybe this was a bootleg video......
Anyone notice he showed coolant pouring into a coolant tank when he talks about viscosity lol. Damn it scotty
Hey Scotty, do you have a video production company as well? This video is very professionally done. Splendid job!
I use liquid Moly. And also a quart of Lucus engine oil stabilizer. Been using for years. Change it every 7k
Agreed. Liqui-Molly makes excellent products. Can’t go wrong. Made in Germany. Especially made/aimed for European car brands. Porsche, VW, BMW, Merc....but equally suitable for any brand.
He said a mouthful! You can never go wrong listening to Scotty.
Great to have you up here in New England!
AMSOIL
I put 325K on my 1985 B2000 Mazda pick-up.
Bought it new.
Installed a bypass filter that completely filters the oil.
I only changed the oil 5 times over 13 years and 325,000 miles.
The truck ran like a top and was clean as a whistle inside the engine.
Spotless when I would adjust the valves.
AMSOIL👍
Sold truck because I got tired of driving it.
Because Amsoil is pure synthetic - not what are the oils on store shelves that labeled as synthetic but in reality not
Scotty is the influencer of the century 👏 for the smart drivers
Scotty needs to convert this video into a full "Schoolhouse Rock" production...
I'm a car, yes I'm only a car.. and I'm sitting in the driveway..oh my now..My oil's low and it's dirty too. Oh I hope and pray that today I will get my oil changed...
Nah, doesn't lend itself well to that.
A mechanic once told me in late 80's that you only need a pint of oil for your engine 😮
Thanks God Scotty! Finally you slowed down on your narration. This is high level and make your image a lot better! Bravo!!
Very nice presentation Scotty. Hope this becomes one of your most viewed videos.
Hello Scotty, that was interesting, but how about doing a similar video for the many Diesel car drivers here in the UK and The rest of the world.
The newer Euro 5 and 6 emission standards , can lead to slight oil dilution when the DPF self cleans. We have all been doing less miles during lock down
so how do we stand doing only a few short journeys per month. The oil looks fine ( Dexos 2} but the condition reading on my car is now at 17% . Thank You 👍👍
I do all my own work on my car and love scottys videos. Helps DIY ers like me out alot
Does Scotty have dirt on you! Or are you just kissing up? LOL.
Awesome video Scotty, well done!
calm and informative, a pleasant and surprising change. More videos in this style please!
I love your channel. I learn a lot from you and appreciate your knowledge.
The number after the "w" is not the summer viscosity. It denotes how the oil behaves at the engine operating temperature.
There are other statements by Scotty that are somewhat out-dated.
Awesome video and it was actually very pleasant to hear your voice at a lower more calm tone.
Blessings.
Bravo. You answered my question about how often to change my 2021 accord oil filter. Dealer recommend every other oil change but after watching this. I will change every oil change.
You did a great job on this one!
Although the W number is for cold weather. It still is thicker than running temp of any viscosity. Meaning, it's not just for winter. The 0w40 oil for instance will protect engine from cold start (95% of wear is cold start up) whether in cold climate areas or hot. 10w40 for instance will still cause more cold start wear than a 0w40, whether in Russian winter or Chicago summer. lower is always best no matter ;)
Yeah im confused as to why he was talking about hot ambient temperature. The hot viscosity is based on the engine being hot, not the weather being hot. Lower cold viscosity means it will protect your engine better on cold starts, hot viscosity is just the viscosity that your particular engine needs when its running at regular operating temp, which is always hotter than the ambient temp.
Mine use full synthetic and they have been really good for 10k mile before another full oil change. I ditch conventional oils for full synthetic oil on all my cars.
Your crazy, oil needs to be changed sooner, trust me your not saving money
@@Danielsyoutubechannel5 wrong. I easily get 8k according to Blackstone, and they say I can easily go 10. Totally false information buddy
use what a manufacturer specifies...same as gasoline octane. ENGINEERS of your vehicle engine know more than you do... so do not guess.
Is that why I can't replace a camshaft sensor without removing the entire engine? XD
So what is the automatic atf in my 2020 car manual says it never needs to be changed? Do I comply to that indication?
@@tomorrowcomestoday1621
Good point. My opinion is no. I do at least one drain and fill a year cause I know my transmission runs 15⁰ to 20⁰ higher than it should during the summer.
@@masterofnone1808 thank you for your reply. I own a grand cherokee and I've seen here on UA-cam transmission maintenance interval but I see that it is very specialized and detailed procedure.
Searching for some info about low engine oil pressure on my Iveco Daily ex prison truck, I stumbled upon this video. So brilliantly well explained 👏