Have you spliced a rope out on the tracks? What did you use? Oh and correction :) 6:14 700mm = 70cm = 27.5 inches. Fat typing fingers. Thanks @Colin Richardson
Another magic robe trick, love it. It’s things like this when you know will definitely be very useful for many different situations. Thanks for another great video 👍👍
Thanks for the lesson. I've been going back and forth trying to decide between rope and steel for my first winch. Being able to splice the rope has influenced my decision a lot.
@@MadMatt4WD Unless you normally park in a gravel parking lot where the rope will get filled with grit and cooked by the summer sun. How long will it last is a serious issue when you're poor.
There is zero reason to run steel anymore, when comparing synthetic to steel, sure abrasion resistance comes into play, but good quality synthetic (Amsteel, Plasma, etc) is actually very abrasion resistant. The synthetic, floats, weighs 7x less (or more), doesn't developed those nasty steel cable hairs that can rips your hands apart, and IF it fails, won't decapitate you. And of course, per the video, you can splice it back together.
As a splicer of ropes for yacht racing, I’d suggest that your technique could be refined.. When you first passed the blue twice thru the grey line, what I’d suggest is passing the blue thru the grey and then the grey thru the blue.. the two then lock off against each other. Pull that tight-ish, then start your burying. I find it’s as easy to taper the lines after the bury and just before you milk back the loose cover.
I was about to say something along this line Matt, I believe it's called a "Brummel lock splice" and usually is used for loops, but will work fine joining two ropes without access to both ends of the rope. There is a trick for doing it on a loop with one end. I'm not a fan of this "lock stitch" thing you do here and in other videos, not just yours. It's not symmetrical, although, it's fast and easy the way you show.
Actually, now that I think about it, although this method forms a Brummel, it's not a locking Brummel. You will need access to one end to form a proper locking Brummel that locks in the direction of pull. I just tried it. Thus, you can just unsplice the hook, do the join, and re-splice the hook using a McDonald Brummel (easy trick to do locking Brummels on loop ends).
$2.50 size #17 knitting needle cut off the blunt end, taper the end of the rope after doing the deep bury not before. Do NOT! use a hot knife or grinder to cut the rope as it will melt the rope causing sharp edges.
I didn't have much luck with the fast fid. The fibers from the dyneema will grab anything that's not perfectly smooth like the basket. One little fiber will stop progress because the stuff is so strong. I use a length of fencing wire slightly longer than the deep bury. The wire exits out before the rope enters at the other end of the bury. Now you have the advantage of pulling instead of trying to push it through
Matt We call the “cage “ a sock in our electrical Industry We use the “ sock “ to capture aerial bundle cable onto a long rope and pull it through rollers along the street on each pole when run new conductor . Same principle
I would leave the loop in and use it like the Freedom winch Line, Hell consider some testing to see how well it works or not. Play safe from Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada.
I am old school I drove a 1975 K5 Blazer and I installed a Ramsey DC - 200 winch with 5/16” aircraft cable on the front. It didn’t get much use during the summer but you were happy to have it during our winters. I put 386K miles on it but the frame was too rusty to repair. I now drive a 2022 RAV4 Trail no winch yet I just haven’t found a front mount I like. I like to drive the fire access roads hear in northern Ontario. You can find some awesome fishing and camping locations.
The splice on Hollow braid is a minimum of 2 tucks 3 to 4 being best followed burying the tail. The actual HOLD is the through tucks not the tail that's almost irrelevant to the hold
Hiya Matt. Nice one mate, excellent and invaluable training. I can't find the tool on a247 you used and I'm buggered if I can make out what you call it. (My brain gets in some kind of knot when I hear you say the word I'm afraid).
Lol. My accent is a bit of a thing. Its called a fast fid. Factor 55 have them. A247 had them last week. Maybe email them and they can back order one. Thanks mate.
Two years later... Normally I'm very good at this kind of technical stuff, but after three tries and countless rewinding I still haven't gotten it right. It's definitely an art, and my hands are as black as night. Again. Perhaps not skipping the crucial bits would help a ton...
Have you spliced a rope out on the tracks? What did you use? Oh and correction :) 6:14 700mm = 70cm = 27.5 inches. Fat typing fingers. Thanks @Colin Richardson
That was one of he best tutorials I've seen because it was simple no bs explaing just to the point.
Cheers
Awesome and simple.
Teaching us the ropes once again.
Keep up the good work Matt. 👍👏👏
Cheers mate
Thanks Matt, I appreciate your effort to educate us.
Nice video. I used steal for decades. It’s dangerous and can draw which can be a real painful hazard. I went full synthetic a few years ago. Love them
Same
I really like your tutorials even though I do not do any off-roading of trucks.
Thanks man. So long as you’re getting out bush one way or the other.
Another magic robe trick, love it. It’s things like this when you know will definitely be very useful for many different situations. Thanks for another great video 👍👍
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thanks for the lesson. I've been going back and forth trying to decide between rope and steel for my first winch. Being able to splice the rope has influenced my decision a lot.
That question is a no brainer. Run rope it’s so much better than wire.
@@MadMatt4WD Unless you normally park in a gravel parking lot where the rope will get filled with grit and cooked by the summer sun. How long will it last is a serious issue when you're poor.
Mine have lasted years. I don’t think you have anything to worry about.
There is zero reason to run steel anymore, when comparing synthetic to steel, sure abrasion resistance comes into play, but good quality synthetic (Amsteel, Plasma, etc) is actually very abrasion resistant. The synthetic, floats, weighs 7x less (or more), doesn't developed those nasty steel cable hairs that can rips your hands apart, and IF it fails, won't decapitate you. And of course, per the video, you can splice it back together.
@@DarkSoulBaja I already gave reason.
As a splicer of ropes for yacht racing, I’d suggest that your technique could be refined..
When you first passed the blue twice thru the grey line, what I’d suggest is passing the blue thru the grey and then the grey thru the blue.. the two then lock off against each other. Pull that tight-ish, then start your burying. I find it’s as easy to taper the lines after the bury and just before you milk back the loose cover.
Thanks heaps. I’m no expert here so happy for quality input. Thanks
I agree. Matt's splice will work in tension, but when compressed can come apart, Geoff has the idea, it will lock together doing it like he suggests.
I was about to say something along this line Matt, I believe it's called a "Brummel lock splice" and usually is used for loops, but will work fine joining two ropes without access to both ends of the rope. There is a trick for doing it on a loop with one end. I'm not a fan of this "lock stitch" thing you do here and in other videos, not just yours. It's not symmetrical, although, it's fast and easy the way you show.
Actually, now that I think about it, although this method forms a Brummel, it's not a locking Brummel. You will need access to one end to form a proper locking Brummel that locks in the direction of pull. I just tried it. Thus, you can just unsplice the hook, do the join, and re-splice the hook using a McDonald Brummel (easy trick to do locking Brummels on loop ends).
Very helpful, just got my fast fid from f55 gonna do this once or twice in case I ever need it on the trail! Thanks!
Great to hear!
$2.50 size #17 knitting needle cut off the blunt end, taper the end of the rope after doing the deep bury not before. Do NOT! use a hot knife or grinder to cut the rope as it will melt the rope causing sharp edges.
awesome that was worth a subscribe and thumbs up
Awesome, thank you!
I didn't have much luck with the fast fid. The fibers from the dyneema will grab anything that's not perfectly smooth like the basket. One little fiber will stop progress because the stuff is so strong. I use a length of fencing wire slightly longer than the deep bury. The wire exits out before the rope enters at the other end of the bury. Now you have the advantage of pulling instead of trying to push it through
That’s interesting. I’ve had fibres catch but I’ve just started again. Anyway great you found a work around.
Matt
We call the “cage “ a sock in our electrical Industry
We use the “ sock “ to capture aerial bundle cable onto a long rope and pull it through rollers along the street on each pole when run new conductor .
Same principle
Nice.
We call it a hoarsecxxk, I know it’s not politically correct
@@lewy1 Lol
Jim Lewandowsky ya ha ha
Names fir gear and tools vary across states and companies don’t they 👍😁
I would leave the loop in and use it like the Freedom winch Line,
Hell consider some testing to see how well it works or not.
Play safe from Elliot Lake, Ontario, Canada.
I am old school I drove a 1975 K5 Blazer and I installed a Ramsey DC - 200 winch with 5/16” aircraft cable on the front. It didn’t get much use during the summer but you were happy to have it during our winters. I put 386K miles on it but the frame was too rusty to repair. I now drive a 2022 RAV4 Trail no winch yet I just haven’t found a front mount I like. I like to drive the fire access roads hear in northern Ontario. You can find some awesome fishing and camping locations.
Have you tried a hammer and sharp chisel to cut the rope? You could tape the rope to a pen or pencil and use that like a needle and thread ..
Some good points there
Great video! What's the purpose of tapering the blue rope in the beginning? Why can't you just bury the ropes without separating the braids?
Well from the testing others have done it has a significant impact on strength.
Great video
Very nice 👍
The splice on Hollow braid is a minimum of 2 tucks 3 to 4 being best followed burying the tail. The actual HOLD is the through tucks not the tail that's almost irrelevant to the hold
Hiya Matt. Nice one mate, excellent and invaluable training. I can't find the tool on a247 you used and I'm buggered if I can make out what you call it. (My brain gets in some kind of knot when I hear you say the word I'm afraid).
Lol. My accent is a bit of a thing. Its called a fast fid. Factor 55 have them. A247 had them last week. Maybe email them and they can back order one. Thanks mate.
@@MadMatt4WD Cheers, and thanks Matt.
@Benny just tape your rope to a sharpie or punch or pen or whatever. No need to buy on a fid.
Great video! Where can I purchase a fid like the one you're using? Thanks
Link in the description.
i love it but just me being overcomplicated I would have done the same on the white rope at 11 minutes as you did at 8 minutes for a double lock
Interesting
You could avoid the tape by tapering after burying the rope, just after removing the fid.
May be sometime tonight.
Chinese finger cuffs lol . I’ve always done this with all braided ropes.
By the way I’m from North Texas in the USA.
Ok cool
Two years later... Normally I'm very good at this kind of technical stuff, but after three tries and countless rewinding I still haven't gotten it right.
It's definitely an art, and my hands are as black as night. Again.
Perhaps not skipping the crucial bits would help a ton...
So it’s not working for you? That’s the first time I’ve heard of it not working. Not sure what crucial bits I skipped.
6:14 70mm = 70cm = 27.5 inches
I will let you figure out what went wrong there.
Whoops haha typing error, dratz!
Make sure you do NOT use Gorilla tape. Speaking from experience. lol
That tapering was a bit over complicated. Just unravel about a foot then start cutting strands in about an inch increments, don’t have to be perfect.
Fair enough