Matt mate, you are strengthening your position as one of Australia's 4WD legends by always delivering high end premium content without the hubris or arrogance mate. Seriously Matt, I bloody love your channel. Cheers, Kev!
Good video passing the end thru the line twice actually locks the end so it cannot pull back thru after end is buried. Another method is to not put in the locks but to bury the end. Then use sail twine to sew in the locks. Tapered end; failure to do so allows the buried end to chafe the outer strands under strain creating a week point.👍
Another awesome vid Matt. I’ve been splicing rope for years. Your way is quick and easy. A good tip on tapering the rope. Thanks I hope your getting spoiled for Father’s Day. Keep up the good work 👏👏👏
Matt, I found your channel through watching Matt's Off-road recovery. I have searched through and watched several of your videos now. picking and choosing what I think can benefit me. I had spent 26 years in the US Marine Corps before retiring. Knots and rope work were nearly a daily thing for me. I have joined many ropes and cables, and learned to used methods requiring almost no tools. However, thank you, thank you for this video. Not so much for the 'how to' aspect for me. But for showing that "Factor 55 Fast Fid". What a game changer. After watching this, I immediately ordered one. I had the opportunity a couple weeks ago to finally use it to put a new loop at the end of my extra synthetic winch line (making an extension, so to speak). That tool is a game changer. It cuts the time and process down way to easily. Keep the videos and tips coming.
It’s like watching a magic trick 😂😂 I need to seriously switch to rope on my winch so many benefits and greater safety. Thanks for another great video 👍👍
Great video. Took an old cable and made a winch extension out of it. As for cutting, I took a single edge razor blade and, with a light sawing motion, it goes thru like butter.
Matt, I have been a sailor for the past 40+ years and I have learnt after years of doing rope splicing that there are 2 ways to cut rope either with the strand or across the strand, the easiest is to cut small pieces at a time and either a very very sharp knife with the rope folded over the rope cutting a bit at a time or a pair of EMT safety scissors (which I use only for splicing and cutting away ropes when in dangerous situations, yes that has happened). I personally do not find stanley knives to be very sharp even when brand new or after removing a section of the blade. I have made a very very sharp knife from an industrial hacksaw blade cut into 2, gound down the teeth on my grinder and one a 90deg angle blade and the other approx, 25-30deg angle blade and sharpening each on my Grandfathers dual grit wet sharpening stone (this blade material seems to keeps it's edge very well). The other thing people could get is a sailor knife/rigging knife, it has a small marlinspike, shackle key, and combination straight and serrated blade which is and can be quite useful in 4wding. I have one and use it often and it fits in a pocket or pouch on your belt. Keep up the great content.
Interesting video. Those rope thimbles look great lovebthe rubber stop on it. Hot tip for you guys out there, if u dont wanna spend the hundred or so bucks for the factor 55 fid, a biro with the ink removed and electrical tape and tape measure will do the job. Just have to be a little more careful when burying the rope, not to damage the fibres.
There are expensive Kevlar scissors that will cut, or a sharp cold chisel with hammer on a blacksmith anvil. I use both. A cold chisel on an anvil is how I cut metal rope. I have Kevlar scissors because I work with fiberglass layups that sometimes include Kevlar fiber. Both methods are great.
If you tape the strands tightly that you are cutting then cut through the tape with your knife it will keep the strands from shifting and they will cut easier.
I cut rope strands easily. I use either my serrated scissors (that are typically used for cutting kevlar). That is best $20 I've yet spent on Amazon. Keeping the strand straight and under tension helps too a lot. Think of how easy a rope under tension is to cut, unlike a limp rope. Ideally you hold the strand on one hand, and pull while pulling the rope with a second hand and cut it with your third hand. :D In real life you probably tie the rope onto something, sit on it, keep your leg on it or whatever. Bending the strand in U-shape works with my sharp knives but I tend to polish them usually up to 10 000 grit and perhaps strop too. You could really shave a beard with some discomfort. With a new Stanly knife blade you will have no such luck. Learning to sharpen and keeping your knife extra sharp is some work but has it benefits. A well polished unserrated knife cuts ropes better than often recommended serrated ropes, at least with my kind of sharpening.
Dyneema is very had to cut with a regular knife blade. I have found that if you use SK2H high carbon steel blades in your utility knife, it will perform much better. Better yet, and you have to try this to even believe it... buy a cheap ceramic blade paring knife, and try that. You can literally just apply pressure and it will make a clean cut right through Dyneema rope. No sawing needed... just downward pressure. Seriously. Try it!
If you already have duct tape or electrical tape I don't see a need for a $50 fid. A smooth whittled stick, piece of coat hanger, or pen/pencil will do. I think the advantage of that fid is that you wouldn't need to use tape which reduces a step. I've never used that fid, but if it still requires tape use then I'm really not sure what the value is.
I believe the square end creates a stress rise in the rope at this point because the rope has to step down in size in a very short distance. This stresses the fibres.
In the field with just using 5 weaves without the fid the rope will be around 90%, I am a lineman and we have used eyes made this way to pull out line trucks, mind you the rope is bigger.
Easy way to cut it is with a hot knife but most will not have one You can also hit the knife with a hammer will chop cleaner If you don’t have a fast fid you can just use a bit of wire
Hey Matt, two questions... 1. Can you use this same technique to splice two ropes together, or rejojn your rope if it snaps?? 2. Do you have to have some kind of splicer on there as you shoeed, or can you simply make a loop in the rope and connect a shackle to that, or hook it straight onto a recovery hook??
Q1 Wait till this Sunday and I'll show you. :) Q2 Yes you can, the only challenge is how to stop it disappearing into the winch drum and sun affecting the rope integrity.
@2:32 Marking certain strands @2:34 All (6) specific threads are pulled aside to then be cut shorter. @4:54 Cut ends get tucked back into the core @5:29 He trims two more. Q:This rope is apparently woven of how many threads? @5:47 He began wrapping the loose ends in tape (electrical, but could have been any other variety) @6:32 Proportion scale: rope diameter to bury length
@@MadMatt4WD Hi, I was taking notes for myself and figured I'd share. I do have a question though, please. How did you identify those pairs of strands, if that matters? I'm trying this for the first time now with some discarded 10-strand synthetic.
Would putting the rope through the splicer first, and THEN doing the tapering and taping it up work better? Or is it just the rope is bad no matter when you do it?
Lol. As you know doubt know we all learn from multiple sources. I have a number of experts in different fields who I go to for advice and council. If I’m not sure I always say so.
Hey Matt, this may be a dumb question, but is there a way to end the winch rope or winch extension rope with a shackle end ? Would it be beneficial or hindrance ? Just thinking along the elimination of extras line.
9:48 it absolutely will NOT retain 100% of its original strength as shown, this is covered at length any in any maritime rigging guide. The only way you're going to reach close to 100% if you have a taper which is 50+ diameters. Your splice is extraordinarily short, you're going to get 80% or 85% out of it at most because of that abrupt taper.
The "standard" for dyneema based ropes (Amsteel, Plasma, etc) for bury splices is 3 fids, a fid being 21x the diameter of the rope (so for a 1/2" rope, that's 31.5" or 2.6' of buried ropes to keep its total strength. That is for a straight eye splice, NO Brummell, or anything like that. However, there is a fair amount of data that shows with a locked Brummell eye splice, if you can get around 1.5-2 fids worth of bury, it wil do fine. (Per Sampson ropes qualification courses)
Don't use masking tape , too hard to get off. Cut the rope or tales with a sharp wood chisel , wrap a bit of tape around it and give it a wack , I use the vice flat . Not good for the chisel but cuts the rope a treat .
@@MadMatt4WD And I always wrap the tapered tail from the bottom up as it makes removing the tape sooo much easier as you are unwrapping with the grain , so to speak .
Hot knife if I could get your mailing address I'll send you a pocket knife with a dimond hone that will cut that rope like butter and just a quick note if you don't have a sharpener you can always use the edge of your door glass
Matt your videos are great, talk about free education. Just my personal opinion, mate your obviously a fairdinkum Aussie, but the Americans say Trail, and at the risk of being proved wrong most Aussies say Track. Cheers Dennis
@@Matthew_Australia I'm not old enough to remember a time before cars. :) Thanks for the info. I really don't think it matters as people know what i mean.
Matt mate, you are strengthening your position as one of Australia's 4WD legends by always delivering high end premium content without the hubris or arrogance mate. Seriously Matt, I bloody love your channel. Cheers, Kev!
Very kind words, thank you for the support!
@3:37 - "That's not a knuuiife...... that's a knuuiife!"
Sorry..... I had to. Great video!
Love it. We have do to do what we have to do
good quality side cutters seem to work well for cutting Dyneema
Thanks mate!
I watched several videos on this but was still apprehensive. Yours finally showed how to do it in a simple way for a dummy like me 😂 thank you
Good video passing the end thru the line twice actually locks the end so it cannot pull back thru after end is buried.
Another method is to not put in the locks but to bury the end. Then use sail twine to sew in the locks.
Tapered end; failure to do so allows the buried end to chafe the outer strands under strain creating a week point.👍
Another awesome vid Matt.
I’ve been splicing rope for years. Your way is quick and easy. A good tip on tapering the rope. Thanks
I hope your getting spoiled for Father’s Day. Keep up the good work 👏👏👏
Thanks mate!
There are scissors made especially for cutting seems and Kevlar. I got some from Amazon and they work great
Matt, I found your channel through watching Matt's Off-road recovery. I have searched through and watched several of your videos now. picking and choosing what I think can benefit me. I had spent 26 years in the US Marine Corps before retiring. Knots and rope work were nearly a daily thing for me. I have joined many ropes and cables, and learned to used methods requiring almost no tools. However, thank you, thank you for this video. Not so much for the 'how to' aspect for me. But for showing that "Factor 55 Fast Fid". What a game changer. After watching this, I immediately ordered one. I had the opportunity a couple weeks ago to finally use it to put a new loop at the end of my extra synthetic winch line (making an extension, so to speak). That tool is a game changer. It cuts the time and process down way to easily. Keep the videos and tips coming.
Well thanks for letting me know. I would think you could teach me a thing or too about knots. I really don’t know much on that front.
It’s like watching a magic trick 😂😂 I need to seriously switch to rope on my winch so many benefits and greater safety. Thanks for another great video 👍👍
Cheers mate!
Great video. Took an old cable and made a winch extension out of it. As for cutting, I took a single edge razor blade and, with a light sawing motion, it goes thru like butter.
Sweet as. Thanks.
Good tips Matt thanks
Black Panther snips would cut that like a hot knife through butter. They cut almost anything.
Matt, I have been a sailor for the past 40+ years and I have learnt after years of doing rope splicing that there are 2 ways to cut rope either with the strand or across the strand, the easiest is to cut small pieces at a time and either a very very sharp knife with the rope folded over the rope cutting a bit at a time or a pair of EMT safety scissors (which I use only for splicing and cutting away ropes when in dangerous situations, yes that has happened). I personally do not find stanley knives to be very sharp even when brand new or after removing a section of the blade. I have made a very very sharp knife from an industrial hacksaw blade cut into 2, gound down the teeth on my grinder and one a 90deg angle blade and the other approx, 25-30deg angle blade and sharpening each on my Grandfathers dual grit wet sharpening stone (this blade material seems to keeps it's edge very well). The other thing people could get is a sailor knife/rigging knife, it has a small marlinspike, shackle key, and combination straight and serrated blade which is and can be quite useful in 4wding. I have one and use it often and it fits in a pocket or pouch on your belt. Keep up the great content.
Fantastic comment
Awesome video Matt. Thank you for the demonstration.
Cheers
Interesting video. Those rope thimbles look great lovebthe rubber stop on it.
Hot tip for you guys out there, if u dont wanna spend the hundred or so bucks for the factor 55 fid, a biro with the ink removed and electrical tape and tape measure will do the job. Just have to be a little more careful when burying the rope, not to damage the fibres.
Good point
There are expensive Kevlar scissors that will cut, or a sharp cold chisel with hammer on a blacksmith anvil. I use both. A cold chisel on an anvil is how I cut metal rope. I have Kevlar scissors because I work with fiberglass layups that sometimes include Kevlar fiber. Both methods are great.
Thanks for the info
Good job. Very helpful, from the U.S.
Happy to help
Thanks, that was good. Also the tip on how to undo the whole process!
I’m glad to help
Another excellent educational video Matt. Thanks. I'll be buying a Fid and learning how to use it. Cheers!
Glad to help.
If you don’t have a tool (rope fid) I just took apart a ball point pen and taped the rope inside it and fed it through quite easily.
Great tip
A great video Sir well explained and was a pleasure to watch !!!You also have a new sub !!! to your channel !!! Take care !!
Thanks very much
I just did it! Thanks for the info!
Fantastic.
A Razor sharp chisel and a heavy hammer work well also
HA!!!! How awesome is that. Subscribed big man🤘that factor 55 thingy majiggy is great. I’m gettin one 💪
Ha Ha thanks for the sub.
Great one mad 👍👍
Lake Havasu-🔥 Az.
Cheers
U teach me hella stuff dude thank you 👍
Very happy to help
Penny cutters/medical shears seem to do good in most ropes I have cut.
I've heard that.
hi Matt, not cutting winch rope, but cutting abseiling rope i find a serrated knife works well in a sawing motion.
Thanks, will experiment.
nice thanks
Pleasure.
In the US that red thing is called a thimble . True it is a fancy one but thimble nonetheless. It in itself does no splicing.
Taking the same wood block you are using and turning it on end and using the end grain surface will make it easier.
Oh ok. I use end grain if i'm using a hole punch say but hadn't thought of that in this situation. Thanks
Thanks matt
The way I’ve always cut dynema rope is with a die grinder. Makes very short work of it. Of course, you don’t always have a die grinder handy.
I use a grinder if I can it works well.
They make scissors know specifically for cutting dyneema, Kevlar, and other exotic ropes, they basically have micro serrations, and work well.
If you tape the strands tightly that you are cutting then cut through the tape with your knife it will keep the strands from shifting and they will cut easier.
Ok cheers
I read 12 inches of bury is fine for the typical 8000-12000 lbs winches
Keep a pair of butchers scissors or meat scissors as some would call them. Very handy indeed.
Those really heavy duty ones?
I cut rope strands easily. I use either my serrated scissors (that are typically used for cutting kevlar). That is best $20 I've yet spent on Amazon.
Keeping the strand straight and under tension helps too a lot. Think of how easy a rope under tension is to cut, unlike a limp rope. Ideally you hold the strand on one hand, and pull while pulling the rope with a second hand and cut it with your third hand. :D In real life you probably tie the rope onto something, sit on it, keep your leg on it or whatever.
Bending the strand in U-shape works with my sharp knives but I tend to polish them usually up to 10 000 grit and perhaps strop too. You could really shave a beard with some discomfort. With a new Stanly knife blade you will have no such luck. Learning to sharpen and keeping your knife extra sharp is some work but has it benefits. A well polished unserrated knife cuts ropes better than often recommended serrated ropes, at least with my kind of sharpening.
Some really good tips there. Thanks
Dyneema is very had to cut with a regular knife blade. I have found that if you use SK2H high carbon steel blades in your utility knife, it will perform much better. Better yet, and you have to try this to even believe it... buy a cheap ceramic blade paring knife, and try that. You can literally just apply pressure and it will make a clean cut right through Dyneema rope. No sawing needed... just downward pressure. Seriously. Try it!
Cheers. Will do. I’ve been using my grinder with a 1mm blade.
Good vid, thanks
My pleasure.
If you already have duct tape or electrical tape I don't see a need for a $50 fid. A smooth whittled stick, piece of coat hanger, or pen/pencil will do. I think the advantage of that fid is that you wouldn't need to use tape which reduces a step.
I've never used that fid, but if it still requires tape use then I'm really not sure what the value is.
It doesn’t need to be used with tape and I often don’t.
a decent pair of industrial shears such as the sterling brand ones would work better and safer. also cut slow and gentle it will cut easier.
A sharp wood chisel
EMT shears. They will cut just about everything
Matt Australia, I have more of them than I can shake a stick at mate. I have a titanium set on my dive gear too.
I will have to get myself a pair and try them out!
How does the theory of a tapered end being stronger than a square end work?
I believe the square end creates a stress rise in the rope at this point because the rope has to step down in size in a very short distance. This stresses the fibres.
@@MadMatt4WD cheers Matt, that makes sense now
In the field with just using 5 weaves without the fid the rope will be around 90%, I am a lineman and we have used eyes made this way to pull out line trucks, mind you the rope is bigger.
Thanks for the info
MadMatt 4WD you can even join 2 ropes by weaving them into each other the same way
Easy way to cut it is with a hot knife but most will not have one
You can also hit the knife with a hammer will chop cleaner
If you don’t have a fast fid you can just use a bit of wire
I like the hot knife idea but alas I don't have one. :)
MadMatt 4WD next time let me know you can borrow my one
Hey Matt, two questions...
1. Can you use this same technique to splice two ropes together, or rejojn your rope if it snaps??
2. Do you have to have some kind of splicer on there as you shoeed, or can you simply make a loop in the rope and connect a shackle to that, or hook it straight onto a recovery hook??
Q1 Wait till this Sunday and I'll show you. :)
Q2 Yes you can, the only challenge is how to stop it disappearing into the winch drum and sun affecting the rope integrity.
@2:32 Marking certain strands
@2:34 All (6) specific threads are pulled aside to then be cut shorter.
@4:54 Cut ends get tucked back into the core
@5:29 He trims two more.
Q:This rope is apparently woven of how many threads?
@5:47 He began wrapping the loose ends in tape (electrical, but could have been any other variety)
@6:32 Proportion scale: rope diameter to bury length
Not sure what your point is? Or are you just helping viewers?
@@MadMatt4WD Hi, I was taking notes for myself and figured I'd share. I do have a question though, please. How did you identify those pairs of strands, if that matters?
I'm trying this for the first time now with some discarded 10-strand synthetic.
An anvil cutter with a razor blade in it works best, but I've always used a good pair of fiskar scissors. Like steinproductsdotcom
Thanks. Will explore this.
If you heat up an old blade and use it to cut the rope its really easy
Good tip
Would putting the rope through the splicer first, and THEN doing the tapering and taping it up work better?
Or is it just the rope is bad no matter when you do it?
You would have to play around to see what worked better for you.
Bien, mais ca prends aussi une surliure pour serrer le câble, parce que l'épissure peut glisser quand le câble est lâche.
That’s never slipped and is still on the vehicle.
Do you know if you could just remove the winch hook off the rope and just use a soft shackle instead of having the hook.or splicer on the end?
Yes you can but you have to make sure it doesn’t get drawn into the winch.
@MadMatt4WD thanks for that. Does the steel inner band from the loop need to be removed or can it stay there when doing this
@@timothyschulz4730 It can stay if you wish but you'll find it deforms. I'd take it out.
@@MadMatt4WD thanks for that!
I would like to know who teaches the teacher?
Lol. As you know doubt know we all learn from multiple sources. I have a number of experts in different fields who I go to for advice and council. If I’m not sure I always say so.
Hey Matt, this may be a dumb question, but is there a way to end the winch rope or winch extension rope with a shackle end ?
Would it be beneficial or hindrance ?
Just thinking along the elimination of extras line.
You can just splice an eye into the end
Yeah just splice an eye in.
Do they make those hooks smaller for atv's?
Yes they do. Go to the Factor55 website to check them out
@@MadMatt4WD thanks!! Greatly appreciated!
9:48 it absolutely will NOT retain 100% of its original strength as shown, this is covered at length any in any maritime rigging guide. The only way you're going to reach close to 100% if you have a taper which is 50+ diameters. Your splice is extraordinarily short, you're going to get 80% or 85% out of it at most because of that abrupt taper.
Thabks
The "standard" for dyneema based ropes (Amsteel, Plasma, etc) for bury splices is 3 fids, a fid being 21x the diameter of the rope (so for a 1/2" rope, that's 31.5" or 2.6' of buried ropes to keep its total strength. That is for a straight eye splice, NO Brummell, or anything like that. However, there is a fair amount of data that shows with a locked Brummell eye splice, if you can get around 1.5-2 fids worth of bury, it wil do fine. (Per Sampson ropes qualification courses)
Scissors
Cut it with a hot knife it's the same thing U use on kermatial 😎😎😎
Ok thanks.
heat up an old chisel or knife if you've a torch or a fire
Don't use masking tape , too hard to get off.
Cut the rope or tales with a sharp wood chisel , wrap a bit of tape around it and give it a wack , I use the vice flat .
Not good for the chisel but cuts the rope a treat .
Thanks for the tips
@@MadMatt4WD And I always wrap the tapered tail from the bottom up as it makes removing the tape sooo much easier as you are unwrapping with the grain , so to speak .
Tapper way too short. Follow manufacturers specifications. 72 x rope diameter. 12mm rope + 864mm taper. Massive error. Sorry mate.
wire cutter
Hot knife if I could get your mailing address I'll send you a pocket knife with a dimond hone that will cut that rope like butter and just a quick note if you don't have a sharpener you can always use the edge of your door glass
Yeah right. Wow! Would you mind emailing me at Madmatt@madmatt4wd.com.au
A knife with a ceramic blade will cut it
I’ve not heard of such a knife.
sheet metal shears
I have a set of those they dont work over time. also you'd be surprised how useful the shears can be. the one im talking about look like scissors
Matt your videos are great, talk about free education.
Just my personal opinion, mate your obviously a fairdinkum Aussie, but the Americans say Trail, and at the risk of being proved wrong most Aussies say Track.
Cheers Dennis
Hehe I call them both
Haha no worries understand, wasn’t having a cheap shot, just hate seeing the Australian language being taken over by another countries.
Cheers Dennis
@@Matthew_Australia I'm not old enough to remember a time before cars. :) Thanks for the info. I really don't think it matters as people know what i mean.