That was great - thanks. The details is what will get me - the tow car side and the towed side...trimming the ends to a taper AFTER you feed it through with the fib.
In some cases, my Dyneema rope is too long so what I do is leave the remaining extra length unburied outside the rope (after inserting the required 50X of the diameter as the bury length). It seems to work but the load I'm using is only 1/8 of the rated load.
If you push the winch end through the eye end first (opposite to what you did) then instead of having the un-spool the winch rope you can just pass the eye end through. Therefore you can either just cut the eye off or pick the splice apart and re-splice it back on. Still end up with a mobius Brummel just without having to un-spool. If I had to go through all the un-spooling process I'd be just replacing the winch rope. Still, an easier permanent and stronger splice would be a straight long bury with some lock stitching. The Brummel is only there to stop it working apart un-loaded, like the lock stitch.
The long bury is great for a track side repair, fine under load, though needs a lock stitch as a permanent solution. I didn't have any cord for the lock stitch handy, therefore the brummel is my goto.
You can always use some of the cut offs from the taper to lock stitch, although not the best as there is next to no stretch in dyneema. I think where my point is, sailors and arborists have been using ropes, including synthetics for far longer than we have in the 4wd community and they will always recommend and go to a direct long bury with stitching. I think having the locking Brummel might compromise the ropes integrity and not get the full 90-100% of the breaking strength that we know I straight bury is good for. I haven't got any information on how a Brummel will go. I'd like to see a Brummel with both long and short buries (because some recommend you can) pipped against a straight bury.
Well, a quick search indicates a Brummel is only good for 40-60% of breaking strain, so still needs the long bury to work correctly, so something I think others need to be careful of when suggesting a Brummel doesn't need a long bury. There was a sailor that was killed (Andrew Ashman) who used Brummel splices without long enough buries due to his mistake.
I think it's now down to the US and Guam still using imperial measurement. And freedom is a big theme in the US. Interestingly, most of the imperial standards are now based on SI (Metric) units. Not that I dislike imperial units, it's just that metric units using a base of 10, usually make much more sense.
Have you even done a winch rope repair out on the tracks?
That was great - thanks. The details is what will get me - the tow car side and the towed side...trimming the ends to a taper AFTER you feed it through with the fib.
I've seen some people taper, then tape it up and then use the fid, just seems like a waste of time to me.
Now I know how to fix that winch rope thanks for the video 👍
No worries mate, now back to the bush! :)
In some cases, my Dyneema rope is too long so what I do is leave the remaining extra length unburied outside the rope (after inserting the required 50X of the diameter as the bury length). It seems to work but the load I'm using is only 1/8 of the rated load.
What I'm not sure of, is if that would unevenly load the rope around where the tail is bulging out.
Excellent video. Thanks for making it.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent job.
Thanks Mike!
If you push the winch end through the eye end first (opposite to what you did) then instead of having the un-spool the winch rope you can just pass the eye end through. Therefore you can either just cut the eye off or pick the splice apart and re-splice it back on. Still end up with a mobius Brummel just without having to un-spool. If I had to go through all the un-spooling process I'd be just replacing the winch rope.
Still, an easier permanent and stronger splice would be a straight long bury with some lock stitching. The Brummel is only there to stop it working apart un-loaded, like the lock stitch.
The long bury is great for a track side repair, fine under load, though needs a lock stitch as a permanent solution. I didn't have any cord for the lock stitch handy, therefore the brummel is my goto.
You can always use some of the cut offs from the taper to lock stitch, although not the best as there is next to no stretch in dyneema.
I think where my point is, sailors and arborists have been using ropes, including synthetics for far longer than we have in the 4wd community and they will always recommend and go to a direct long bury with stitching.
I think having the locking Brummel might compromise the ropes integrity and not get the full 90-100% of the breaking strength that we know I straight bury is good for. I haven't got any information on how a Brummel will go.
I'd like to see a Brummel with both long and short buries (because some recommend you can) pipped against a straight bury.
@@spencerm106 I think factor 55 have done the testing.
Well, a quick search indicates a Brummel is only good for 40-60% of breaking strain, so still needs the long bury to work correctly, so something I think others need to be careful of when suggesting a Brummel doesn't need a long bury. There was a sailor that was killed (Andrew Ashman) who used Brummel splices without long enough buries due to his mistake.
Where can i buy that red pin you are used , what it call that pin?
thank you sir
Thankyou for your efficient teaching especially how to taper. But I will remind you that Aus went metric in 1974😀
I love the SI system, I even run decimal time on my watch!
Have you got a link for your Fid?
factor55.com/product/fast-fid-new/
Should be tapering both ends before burying fir a smoother transition
Great suggestion!
!!!!Spyderco!!!!!
Well spotted!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing hard to miss the thumb hole
Why do you refer to imperial measurements as "freedom units"? I've never come across anyone else doing so.
I think it's now down to the US and Guam still using imperial measurement. And freedom is a big theme in the US.
Interestingly, most of the imperial standards are now based on SI (Metric) units.
Not that I dislike imperial units, it's just that metric units using a base of 10, usually make much more sense.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing It might be a big theme for them but they've only ever given it lip service.
Two by two, hands of blue