Is this the FIX for Fanatec Shifter Mis-shifting?
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- Опубліковано 21 лип 2024
- thread: forum.fanatec.com/discussion/...
00:00 intro
01:13 the problem
02:30 the solution
03:42 solution at work
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If it works or not, let us know below
100 percent works ive tried every other fix and it always worked for a little while but this straight up fixed it your a legend thank you!!!!
Didn't work it's stuck in reverse I need help.
Tried a new RJ12 cable and does not work. Still experiencing mis-shifts :(
I had this problem a couple years ago, and this abslutely fixed it. So strange that the plug in the CSL elite, and apparently many other wheelbases have this issues. No problems with my handbrake whatsoever, which is attached to the wheelbase I should mention.
So what do you do if you use a console😂
Can confirm changing the cable works. Had my shifter for 3 years, had mis shifts after about 12 months tried all the fixes with the isolation of the small PCB to no avail. Replaced the RJ cable with zero miss shifts for 2 years
Bro on forza horizon 5 when I shift the game shows sometimes the rev hitting and showing neutral. Same issue as u? U recon?
@@misterpacha1 Sounds similar to what I was getting in Automobilista 2 (AMS2). Usually shifter works normally, occasionally I would shift to 4th and sometimes AMS2 would register neutral. I had a 2nd monitor, was able to monitor what the Fanatec control panel was saying, when this happened it was saying I was in 2nd. Other times I would shift to 3rd and Fanatec control panel showed 1st gear (game was actually shifting to 1st when this happened, race over). If you have a way to monitor the Fanatec control panel on the shifter page while you drive, that should help identify the issue.
@@bosnebdamn. Now it says reverse sometimes when I go to 3rd. Will change cable and try.
I had a similar issue when I first set up my rig and couldn't calibrate it either. The fix that worked for me was quite simple: I removed the shifter from the rig, performed the calibration while holding it in my hands, and then remounted it. Since then, I haven't experienced any mis-shifting problems. It's definitely worth a try if you're facing similar issues. Hope this helps! 👍😊
Bro what
Oh woow that actually worked!!!! Thank you 🙏🏻
Mine was the PCB. Changed the screws to nylon + washers and not had an issue in 2 years.
Currently i had also the miss-shifting problem. I taped some kapton tape behind the two pcb's. This fixed my problem for now. Now it works flawlessly.
yep, that's how I solved mine years ago. sticking it into the wheelbase literally blew my wheelbase PCB from my experience. the cost for RMA from Malaysia was really really expensive even though it was still under warranty at the time. been using the USB ever since.
This simple solution worked for me - thanks so much!
Had this issue off and on and I put plastic washers to block the CSL DD from direct metal to metal contact on my rig and this has been working flawlessly when connected to the CSL DD shifter port.
Mine has been flawless for about 4yrs but suddenly started doing this last night. I changed cable, recalbrated and sure enough it has fixed it.
I tried the tape fix and new lead but still had no r 1 3 5 7 but 2 4 6 worked fine on inspection the inner micro switch was out of alignment I carefully straightened the roller lever to match the other switch checking it’s operation for all gears. Rebuilt back into case and worked 1st time. I can say the new rj12 lead definitely made a difference that gave me the 2 4 6 gears back straight away. I am going to contact Fanatec to see if I can get the micro switch board. Mine is one of the first with a potentiometer fitted. I hope this helps its 10 years old and still works like a dream now.
I had a cable issue with Clubsport V3 pedals when I used them on a CSL DD. Every now and then it would start registering a little bit of constant braking (looking really like a noise signal), and I'd need to unplug/replug the cable on the wheel base.
Later I upgraded my base to a DD1, and it came with a new cable with a ferrite choke for the pedals (and they state "use this one, not the old one!"). The issue never happened again.
I had the same issue!! What I found at the time said to unbolt the top of the shifter to unplug and plug back in a small connector inside as silly as it sounds. I haven't had an issue since it doesn't make sense, but it's been working😅
It did work for me too. It's connected to the PC, not the base and it works like a charm. Thanks!
Oh, I'm still using the same cable. Only added the adapter.
i had the same problem out of the box. Swapped the cable with the one that came with my CSL peddles and problem fixed. I then made my own cable and I've never had an issue since
I bought the complete Fanatec Ecosystem DD CSL , CSL Elite V2 pedals the handbreak and the shifter.
My shifter never has worked more than 2 weeks faultlessly .
It went in for repair twice and after 2 Weeks, we were back again having miss-shifts.
I did all they asked me to do, even grounding the rig.
I even tried using ferrite cores on all the cables possible.
Nothing helped.
And it didnt matter if I used the USB adapter or I used it on the wheelbase.
Finally I bought a Moza shifter, and my pain is gone.
For the rest of the fanatec products I have, I'm very happy with them, but the shifter was a nightmare.
excuse me. hows your moza shifter? my moza shifter have the same issue like this. miss shifting
i'll absolutely try this when i get home. i've tried every fix i could find and ive always had mine randomly selecting reverse when i want 1st, 3rd, or even 5th. i JUST got my new moza shifter and its not bad but if i can actually fix the fanatec one then ill be selling the moza
Did it work?
@@Cyan._.gt. oh i forgot about this lol. i ended up finding a broken wire inside the shifter. its been good since then.
@@ICKY427 ok
My fix was to re align the magnet on the inside. It shifts after a few years and needs re alignment. It is very small rod about 1/16 dia x about 1/4 long. There is a video about this that is a few years old.
Six years using the Fanatec shifter and really happy with it, even tough i've experieced some problems. It hapoens again from time to time, but after trying everything i've discovered a really silly fix: turn it onto sequential shifting, moving the stick back and forth a pair of times and returning to H, aaaaaaand... Magic! 🤦🏻♂️😂😂
So I tried that and now it flashes and stays in reverse even in neutral
The tape solution worked for me.
I just remove the top of the shifter, then put it back and it solves this strange static issue. Once in three-four years. Not regarding it this shifter is a beast. I have used it for 8 years now and this is the only issue sometimes.
Same. Shifter went back to fanatec for repair for a mis shift. Comes back with a new cable the shielding on it. Zero issues now.
I will be interested to see how this ages. I just ordered myself a ClubSport shifter and I'm anxious to try it out.
Same, I was about to order mine later this day, but now I am scared of it😭😂, but idk, I am not going to use it with a fanatec wheelbase, and I am gonna use the clubsport usb adapter, I really hope I won't run into this problem..
been using it for a month, not having this issue
@@moncimoov i have been using it for a month as well now, i have just started seeing this proble, but i heard it was because of some electricity or smth inside the shifter, so remove the four screws on the top and lift it up for a minute or so, and put it back.
Im surprised it worked :))
I purchased my Clubsport shifter and my CSW 2.5 wheelbase secondhand and haven't had the issue. It could also be because I don't have any Fanatec pedals because I have the Thrustmaster T-LCM pedals plugged directly into my pc.
I had no problem so far with the Fanatec shifter, I had it for over a year mounted on a Playseat and connected to a wheelbase (no usb, working on console).
Now is mounted on a proper profile rig, I used nylon washers for the rig mount, then a ground wire on the shifter body. Plus the whole rig has another ground wire, as the DD wheelbase and the seat fitting too. Everything is bolted on an exposed end of the profile and from here goes a ground wire attached to a wall plug… the plug is obviously stripped of the power terminals. One and half year, zero issues.
Fanatic is great, sadly they are plagued with some minor issues.
I couldn't (still can't) update my engine driver and my Wheel update. I think the issue is my pedal V3, as soon as I disconnect it I can do it, but connected, my program for the update freezes without successing. I had sent my Wheel Base and Wheel to Fanatec about 4 times. They couldn't find the problem and my pointing to the Pedals did nothing. They just said I should send them the wheelbase again and after that I was feed up with the customer service. Next Wheel will mostly be like Moza or Logitech again. Maybe even Trustmaster.
Thx for the video. I just bought the fanatech shifter 5 minutes ago and was looking on youtube : fanatec shifter calibration / installation found your video ! I hope I will not experience this problem (the shifter will be connected to the wheelbase and did not buy the adapter). So in any case, if happening, I will buy a rj12 cable on amazon.
Finger crossed but thx for the info !
Your shifter working ok I’ve ordered mine coming tomorrow hope there’s no issues thanks
@@wayneworstenholme2454 yes shifter working perfectly. Just be advised , if you have a wheel stand to install it, do not do it directly.
Install the shifter on your knee to make the calibration. It will work 100%. Then fix the shifter to the chassis. If you do it the other way (first chassis then calibration , you will maybe get problems with static electricity ... And calibration will not be able completely)
@@xtadeus4777 good advice thank you I’ll be trying that tomorrow. 👍
Just started having this issue last weekend and been looking for a solution (I was gonna try the electrical tape) but I’m about to replace my CSL DD pedals to the V3’s so I’ll use that cable and report back even though I know this video is now 9 months old.
IT DOES WORK!
@@BrownJedi87thanks for checking and reporting back!
The Fanatec shifter adapter seems to have fixed all of the problems that I have had with this shifter. Aside for trying to get the shifter centering spring (that broke) from #Fanatec customer service. I've been trying to get spare springs for two months now.
Have you tried ferrite around cables?
This is quite an easy fix. Unscrew the 4 bolts on the top of the shifter. Then disconnect the 4pin connector, and reconnect it, it should fix it sence it resets the board. This "shuffle" issue is due to static build up in the shifter, this is caused because metal on metal friction. Ive had the fanatec shifter for 3 years now, had this issue once. I hope this helped! Its an well known issue.
This fixed it for me !
@@tapatsos Glad to hear!
tried that didnt work
Worked for me seen it in one of Karl’s videos
This did not fix for me. If anything, after reassembling I had more frequent mis-shifts. Fanatec is sending me a new cable.
Can also confirm that this works tried it works perfectly since a week
Could you please recommend a shifter handbrake combo? I have two setups with fanatec csw 2.5 and csl dd wheels. One at a desk and one on an old obutto ozone rig. Flexible on price and brand but leaning towards value. Would like 3 devices H, sequential and handbrake for use on pc. I have a th8 shifter but that's it.
I just ordered shifter and handbrake to complete my fanatec setup... yep me again the recent subscriber catching up on your content lol. Is this still an issue if so I'm thinking a snap on ferrite that goes on cable should help with electric interference.
my problem is when shifting into 5th, unless i actually hold the shaft to the right, it thinks that it is in 3rd, then flickers between 3rd and 5th? its strange and now i can only use it with damage off, otherwise it just fries the clutch
Mine is similar. I have to be very careful when re-calibrating, giving the shaft some pressure to keep it from misregistering the gear. 1st & 5th are the worst. Am not using the wheel base since I have other brand of DD, so using the little USB adapter for pedals & shifter.
I can't remember if it was the shifter or the pedals but the manual for one had a weird message about using a very specific cable (that came with the add-on or the wheelbase, I forget which). I thought it was odd because why would it matter which RJ12 to RJ12 cable you used? And why would they be supplying some that were different/better than others, instead of all the same? Wonder if it's something related to this.
i remember that too, i think it was with my csl load cell kit
I just made a custom cable and they don't use all the pinouts available. I don't recall if the pins are switched from normal though.
My whole DD set is very sensitive to EMI. FFB jumps, miss shifting, buttons random not working. Probably because I have open bench for my PC. There is no shield of PC case to cover all high power components. I redo the cable management of DD to avoid PSU and monitor power cords. Plug into the usb port that is far away from PSU. Untie all cables, separate them. Put wi-fi antenna to the opposite side. Then everything is good. $0 spent.
I've had so many problems with all my fanatec gear that I can't remember but I believe I had a problem with my shifter it would not calibrate tried a bunch of tricks on the internet nothing worked I think I changed the cable and problem fix. I haven't had a problem since.
I hope I didn't just jinx myself.
The Fanatec shifter adapter has fixed all three of my #Fanatec shifters, no missed shifts in four years.
I believe it has something to do with bypassing the wheel bases and going directly in to the PC.
I get this problem every few months, will try a cable next time.
My Fanatec gearbox worked without a problem, a few days ago it started to fail, when I engage gear 1 it enters R, if I engage gear 2 it flashes between 1 and 2 constantly.
I have tried everything I have seen on UA-cam:
1: open the gearbox, clean the two plates with isoprolytic alcohol.
2: put insulating tape behind the plates.
3: check that the magnet is centered.
4: change the rj12 cable.
5: isolate chais with ground connection.
Well today I realized what caused my error in the change.
This is simply when starting the EA WRC game, then even if you close the game it is already uncalibrated and with false positives. If I do not start this game, the change does not cause false positives, verified with a fanatec program on another monitor.
I have updated the program to its latest version 4.55
the firmware of the change is 1.12
From what I deduce that many users do not know why the change fails over time, in my case it has been this and I don't know how to solve it, I already deleted everything related to this game and I have reinstalled having the same problem.
Soooo you all are saying RJ12 but FANA website says RG12 All the RJ45 I'm seeing anywhere are 8pin, the cable in my FANATEC shifter is 6 pin. Anyone know what I'm missing here?
i gonna try today 👍
what worked for me was unplug from shifter 1 and plug the same cable on shifter 2 on csl DD. Maybe a coincidence, but the issue started after a base driver update
Hi, I just received the shifter yesterday and I'm having trouble shifting 1 and 5 because they are next to reverse and 7, sometimes it works but very often it doesn't.
Do you think this is a similar problem?
I don't think I'm making a mistake when I change gears.
have you calibrated the shifter
@@randomcallsign Yes many times
try another cable, if it doesnt work, ask for help.
Man oh man, I wish evga made sim products. Fanatec as been letting me down lately. Btw that’s a RJ12 connection, im showing my age. The RJ12 is a telephone connection like a LAN line.
Always had it connected through the USB and had mishifts in some gears. I installed the fanatec drivers and calibrated it and had no issues ever since
Driver 450 and 451 &didn't do any difference to me
@@randomcallsignfor me neither.... opening the case and closing it does the trick every time for some weeks... then it starts again... just open and close the housing of the shifter and its working again for weeks....
If you have an extra rj12 from the pedals try it out.
I just put my Clubsport back on and bought a USB adapter and plugged to PC with swapping the wire and no mis shifts. Soo happy. I was gonna pick up the Moza HGP or the awesome Sim magic Ds8x
@@randomcallsignyour awesome thanks!!! Also was awesome seeing you in the Simpit channel during the pit stop and responding to me there too!!
I changed the cable, and it still happens, but no as often as before.
Has anybody had the shifter stop working it’s not recognized by any game or the Fanatec control panel tried changing cable didn’t work I’m thinking of getting a rj12 to usb adapter and trying to plug directly to my pc it’s only a year old as well I don’t really use it much either
just received new cables today, try it...nope the problem still exists. 😔😔 electrical tape🙅🏼♂ change cable 🙅🏼♂Mis shifting, Seq shifter still error🤦🏼♂🤦🏼♂hope to find the solution
Funny how I’m in the market for one and this pops up. Should I not bother?
correct ....
Fanatec sent me a new cable with ferrite beads worked for a while then back to the issue again. I tried usb adaptor too. Works for a while then back to same issue. Could it be magnetic drift? I'm almost ready to find another shifter. The thing is though when it works I love it! This issue has been very allusive to find do to the fact I can't make it happen...It just happens when it wants too. All I had to do to get mine working again is undo the 4 bolts give it a twirl and put it back together and it goes to working. I'm baffled. Maybe if we got together and sent them all back to fanatec they would get the message and come up with a solution??? Haha not gonna happen...thx for the post though
Does anybody have any RJ12 cable Amazon recommendations? Please drop some links. Would like to get a high quality cable to increase my chances that this will work. Thanks!
That's how I fixed mine years ago too, just used the usb adapter.
Fanatec should do a new revision of this shifter, very soon.
At 159 euro's it's a steal right now
@@tibozino1671
Lol. Doesn’t matter if it’s junk…
Didn‘t work for me. My shifter is getting a RMA now.
When I shift to 3 sometime my shifter go to R
I just got mine out the box and it’s doing this damn do I feel played🤦🏽♂️
The problem is known, watch this video on the "nagaracing" channel from 05:40, the title of the video: "Je visite le SETUP SIM RACING d'un abonné (c'est un perfectionniste)"
You have to ground the base, by connecting it to an electrical outlet ... but it is possible that several problems give the same result, so that this wire does not work all the time ....
Personally, I am for the trash or not to buy... 😅😂😮💨
Too bad the video is in french :-(.
It's basicaly the same as the video wouldn't exists at all.
Anyway, thanks for the hint with grounding.
@@kmartyCZ cc english works 😉
That’s exactly what I tried since it can be only way I can get anything. Yet, I disagree, (auto)CC English is absolutely worthless (thus whole video too). Sorry
@@kmartyCZ Sorry!!
He explains that he appreciates the product, but that he is imprisoned by the brand... while trying to use this new bluetooth wheel, he encountered major problems, with the electromagnetic fields of this base.
It was therefore necessary to ground the base in order to limit these problems ... before, the wheel did anything, or nothing at all
I think this issue probably just like the problem on the load-cell pedal(electrical signal flickering), all you need is make the pedal set grounding.
i.imgur.com/m9WFM3J.jpg
i.imgur.com/5Qq475x.jpg
Google " CSL Pedals Load Cell flickering and the solution! "
Update as of 11-2023
Update to this post from my stand point: I think Fanatec has fixed this issue with the latest firmware update. Ever since the release I have not experienced any issues at all with the shifter mis shifting and it has been over 2 months now. Firmware version: Wheelbase 1.1.8.5. Now if I do experience any mis shifts I will update this comment again. But it seems this issue is finally resolved. Update as of Last Post...Today's date 3-19-2024. I have NOT had any issues mis shifting since my original post. I need to mention though just in case, I do have mine plugged into the wheel base. Now if I do experience any mis shifts I will update this comment again.
I’m on the most recent firmware and this issue just started happening for me, so it does not appear to be a firmware problem or firmware fix.
I just started having this issue recently and I'm on the newest firmware :(
I have fixed this 10 different ways. It always comes back eventually... Next time it happens I'll try the pedal cable. But again. It just comes back eventually. The only thing that always works is connecting it through USB. But i don't want that to be the solution as I like to jump on Console sometimes and i NEED it to be connected through the base. Not to mention i am always running out of USB ports.
Try to make your pedal set grounding, it will fix the signal glitch.
i.imgur.com/m9WFM3J.jpg
i.imgur.com/5Qq475x.jpg
@@user-hk3iw5qu1r Currently I am grounded from the wall socket directly to my shifter base. That and the 451 drivers have been good for several weeks now. But ill give it a go if it starts failing again.
Mine goes into reverse sometimes while the stick is in 3rd, drives me nuts.
Have it in usb and tried cables, still same issue.
The cable must be a six pin not a 5 pin connector if connected to the wheel base.
I've ordered RJ45's on Amazon and been using those since without issue
Got some bad news for you. That’s not a RJ45, it’s a RJ12 connector. RJ12 connectors are the same cords you use for a house phone. RJ45 is for your computer to connector to the internet.
RJ45 has 8 pins, while RJ12 has 6 pins. The connector is wider, it won't fit.
How does an RJ45 fit. My shifter has an RJ12 6 pin cable.
to solve your problem buy an USB Isolator works like a charm
I just got my shifter on Blackfriday and really thinkin about sending it back. Seeing this here just adds up to the fact that it feels kinda unprecise and not at all realistic to switch between the gears, the SQ shift has too much resistance and the top end looks like an oversized dildo. All that for 250€ ?? seems like a rip off. Its solid metal- thats all good I can say about it so far.
Agree with the sequential mode feeling like crap with the stock knobs, but I replaced it with a quaife nylon knob and it actually feels great now. As for H pattern mode, I don't think you are gonna get a better experience at the price point. BDH is like 1000
@@RetardedAsianGuy
After viewing some reviews I also got the impression, that other products tend to be worse.
But the fact, that the resistance between sequential and H shift must be changed when you change from one to another and that while there is no knob to do so is really annoyin.
I've always used mine via the USB connector and suffered with mis-shifts a lot. I opened it up to discharge static and that worked for a day or so but no permanent fi. I finally added the electrical tape to the circuit boards on mine a few months back and it's been great since then.
Same here but mine stopped working after a couple of weeks, its been like a year ive been using it in sequential
prolly the wires are not shielded good in cable bundle and bleeding interference.
this is what im thinking. or the new cable is able to send the electrical charge away.
OMG if this fixes it I'm going to throw it into the wall I pray to the baby jesus I don't.
I have the same issue and is plugging directly to my PC via USB cuz my wheelbase isn't Fanatec. So don't think this is the root cause. Maybe Fanatec just made a crappy shifter.
I’ve been using it strictly on usb. Mainly because I have a Thrustmaster wheel, and I have had zero issues.