@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 I finished up that rear main seal job and the FelPro seal failed immediately. Got it all cleaned up and back together and started it to top off the trans and I could see it dripping 😢 but I'm getting paid 14hrs again to redo it with oem parts. Let's pray this one doesn't fail
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 have you done any 8 f35 in awd edges. I have two at my shop for overhauls book pays 18.9 to r and r I never remove engines however I helped a friend do one last year we fought it for a day maybe that’s faster transfer case only comes out as transmission is being moved away from engine worst designed vehicle I’ve ever worked on lol and I’ve been working on transmissions for 30 years
Thanks for the video, I am tackling this project on a 2015. Im assuming since you took the subframe off it is required? I was hoping there would be enough room to sneak it by.
What are the lines that you disconnected, and would removing and replacing a rebuilt transmission possibly cause a water pump to fail and drive belts to break or break vaccuum pump because all this happened to my 2012 Ford Edge Ecoboost recently. Any advice is appreciated.
Very nice video. Maybe it does not matter as it pertains to transmission R&R, but do you recall if that Edge had the 2.0 L "Ecoboost" engine, or maybe one of the other engine options?
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 We missed this step 😅 It cost us about 2 hours. I wish I had a stand to return the transmission without it being such a tough task. Hope to finish it today.
One more question, Dylan - after everything was assembled, for some reason the engine started not starting; it just makes some cracking sound, and that’s all. The starter is hot on the connector side. Any ideas would be great. And an extra question - after connection, should we still be able to rotate the engine manually (using the bolt on the side)? Because right now it’s blocked. Thanks for any help.
I’m guessing your torque converter wasn’t all the way back probably damage inside the transmission at this point. You should definitely be able to turn the engine by the crank bolt. Even in park
Well, we tried the transfer case first and it did not fix it it’s easier to remove sub frame before the t case if you’re going to remove the transmission anyway, but if you’re not removing the transmission, there’s no need to remove the sub frame. Just edited it that’s how I got me removing the transfer case so that’s what I put in
Wtf, my wife has lost her damn mind to think I can change her transmission. I’m going to struggle to change the fluid in that shit. Man Ford has done it this time. Bow Tie til I die
I’m having to do it twice! The junkyard engine we bought would not start. Sent to ford they found it was missing the Ring tone gear on back of crankshaft so the crank sensor don’t read it. Going to try to do it without taking whole engine down. But it’s a major job!!
I am NOT a mechanic.... having said that I came to your video to see where this metal plate goes under my wife's car..... "I removed this plate" wasn't helpful 😂😂😂😂
I have a rear main seal job on one of these coming in tomorrow. Thank the lord you made this video.
It’s literally why I made my channel. Thanks For taking the time to comment!!
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 I finished up that rear main seal job and the FelPro seal failed immediately. Got it all cleaned up and back together and started it to top off the trans and I could see it dripping 😢 but I'm getting paid 14hrs again to redo it with oem parts. Let's pray this one doesn't fail
Dylan thank you so much for the awesome video, all data doesn’t have remove and replace for this transmission so this helped a ton!
Thanks man that’s why I make these videos
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 have you done any 8 f35 in awd edges. I have two at my shop for overhauls book pays 18.9 to r and r I never remove engines however I helped a friend do one last year we fought it for a day maybe that’s faster transfer case only comes out as transmission is being moved away from engine worst designed vehicle I’ve ever worked on lol and I’ve been working on transmissions for 30 years
Thanks for the video, I am tackling this project on a 2015. Im assuming since you took the subframe off it is required? I was hoping there would be enough room to sneak it by.
I don’t know any other way
What are the lines that you disconnected, and would removing and replacing a rebuilt transmission possibly cause a water pump to fail and drive belts to break or break vaccuum pump because all this happened to my 2012 Ford Edge Ecoboost recently. Any advice is appreciated.
Then I guess anything is possible I’m not sure what lines you’re talking about though they’re pretty tight
Very nice video. Maybe it does not matter as it pertains to transmission R&R, but do you recall if that Edge had the 2.0 L "Ecoboost" engine, or maybe one of the other engine options?
I’m not positive.
it is the 2.0t ecoboost
Great video! But how did u get access inside transmission to when it is still connected to engine to disconnect torturer converter from engine gear?
Remove the starter the rest, I explained in the video
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 We missed this step 😅 It cost us about 2 hours. I wish I had a stand to return the transmission without it being such a tough task. Hope to finish it today.
So I can just let the steering gear and sway bar hang from above? I usually drop it all together on the subframe
Yep we use short straps to hang from strut!
One more question, Dylan - after everything was assembled, for some reason the engine started not starting; it just makes some cracking sound, and that’s all. The starter is hot on the connector side. Any ideas would be great. And an extra question - after connection, should we still be able to rotate the engine manually (using the bolt on the side)? Because right now it’s blocked. Thanks for any help.
I’m guessing your torque converter wasn’t all the way back probably damage inside the transmission at this point. You should definitely be able to turn the engine by the crank bolt. Even in park
Is is needed to change solenoid strategy after replacement (not same sol strategy on new transmission? ) or computer could relearn it?
Only if you change the solenoids, and sometimes you don’t even have to do the solenoid strategy then just try to drive it and see if it will adapt
Little confused, you show removing the subframe, but when you show the driveshaft and transfer case being removed, the subframe is back up?
Well, we tried the transfer case first and it did not fix it it’s easier to remove sub frame before the t case if you’re going to remove the transmission anyway, but if you’re not removing the transmission, there’s no need to remove the sub frame. Just edited it that’s how I got me removing the transfer case so that’s what I put in
If you’re doing a tranny subframe has to come out
Does engine need to be supported from top?
Nope top Mount holds it
@@doingstuffwithdylan4367 it definitely did. Replaced a flex plate that was broken in a perfect square 😂 wish I could upload photos here
How many hours was this job?
Maybe eight
Wtf, my wife has lost her damn mind to think I can change her transmission. I’m going to struggle to change the fluid in that shit. Man Ford has done it this time. Bow Tie til I die
I’m having to do it twice! The junkyard engine we bought would not start. Sent to ford they found it was missing the Ring tone gear on back of crankshaft so the crank sensor don’t read it. Going to try to do it without taking whole engine down. But it’s a major job!!
Yeah, without a rack, I can’t imagine. Good luck, my friend.
I am NOT a mechanic.... having said that I came to your video to see where this metal plate goes under my wife's car..... "I removed this plate" wasn't helpful 😂😂😂😂
Maybe not Sorry thanks for the comment.