I had the same problem and swept across the shingle edges with a straw broom. I used a beach solution as well. I thought there is a better way. Seeing this pro do pretty much the same,I feel better. Thank you Tommy and TOH.
In my 40 years as a roofer I have never seen moss and the additional moisture it collects make water proof composition shingles water permeable. Moss can hold moisture at the butt of the shingle close to the nailing line, and so close to nails. If the moisture is salty and the nails are not hot dip galvanized, copper, or stainless steel they may rust out. There are indications that some moss inhibiting treatments are caustic to the nails. In general moss growth on a composition shingle roof that is fastened with quality nails is an appearance issue. The sun's UV rays are the main source of composition shingle damage. The north face of a roof may look shabby, but the south face though looking fine from the ground, could be weaping due to lost surfacing, vaporized asphalt, and exposed fiberglass mat.
I noticed my garage roof has green moss on comp shingle butts under trees an a north facing side. IIRC 19 years ago when I stripped the old roof I never saw any real evidence of degradation in that area. I might add that the roof was at least 25 years old and still watertight, roofs last forever in my mild (40-70 degree) climate on the California coast, but since I was doing the house we went ahead and did it all. Do you think the safest bet is to just leave it alone unless it sweeps off? BTW I get the moss mostly from the fog making the trees "rain". I might add I am far enough from the ocean that I can get away with galvanized flashing.
@@monshes Sounds like you might be a neighbor. I'm in the Eureka, Arcata area of the California coast. Anyway I have not seen any functional benefit from moss removal. Loose debris and some moss can be removed with a blower, which is less abrasive than brooming. Appearance is a fair consideration in some cases, but moss removal does not promote or increase roof longevity in my experience. I have torn off a section of roof that was fully covered by a flat moss, like a carpet, but found no leaking issue, or water damage. Count the cost of roof maintenance, in time, in money, in effort, and possible danger. Remember even good roofs, properly applied, do wear out, and new ones cost a bunch. My idea is to only do maintenance that will forstall replacement. That would mostly be keeping the loose debris off, and trees/shrubs from overhanging and/or rubbing on the roof. Chimney, and skylight collars should be monitored, and prepped and painted as necessary. Plumbing vent seals, where pipes pass through the cone of the base flashing should be renewed as necessary. I have only seen moss be a contributing factor the one time in 40 plus years, so without further evidence, I believe the worry about moss damaging composition shingle roofs is much overblown, and causes unproductive, possiblely destructive, efforts. Good luck.
The only reason I needed to do this was because Farmers Insurance would not insure my home unless I removed all the moss. And is was minimal moss on a roof with no trees over it and not shaded by any trees!
Not sure if you've covered this before, but screwing a bracket to a rafter through the roofing is a penetration. How do you deal with that? HOW GREAT! You actually covered it at the end. This is the first video I've ever watched where they talked about a harness and then followed up on what to do after removal. Thank you:)
I am not a Home Owner "yet". But me and my wife are in the process of purchasing our first home in the near future. I saw this episode. And it will give me a heads up on a Mossy Roof. Thank you to This Old House And You Tube 😀
I'd give anything to have Tommy "the legend" Silva come to my home and help me with a project. I'd even film it for posterity sake. These guys are the GOAT of HI. Grew up watching them and I always will - in reruns!
That’s not really a great method of doing that roof. Soft washing would have been the best way use chemicals and light water. By first sweeping it you’re losing all of the granules. And now we’re hammering more nails into the roof for something that might work
Yep. I was cringing seeing him face nail that zinc strip. I'd never face nail metal on a shingle roof. When that roof contracts in the winter, that's going to open up. If they really wanted to self-seal the nails, they could've laid down a strip of ice & water shield first then lay the zinc over that. But even then, I'd never rely on that to keep moss off the roof. I'd just give that roof a wash down every few years as needed. But then again, I'm a roofer. ☺
I had this issue not as advanced. I used Wet & Forget Outdoor Algae remover, Except applied with 1 gallon bug sprayer. No harm to shingles. No rinsing off. Worked great. Read bleech can discolor shingles.
helpful video. I've been a climbing instructor for over 25 years. it might be helpful to mention that bleach on your rope and harness will degrade the material and shorten the usable life span and weaken the rope. If you do get bleach on your rope, rinsing the rope will help. the worst case would be repeated exposure to bleach without any cleaning. I hope this info helps somebody out there stay safe on their roof
I installed zinc plates along the ridge line of a new roof 6 years ago. Last year I saw that isn't adequate. I resumed treatment with "Wet and Forget". This is the right supplement to the zinc.
Have been a viewer since Bob Villa and before he was gray! Have always loved learning repair and restoration by "best practices". It honors the home through developing craft. Thanks to all you gentlemen through the years for a great and continuing, quality show!
Use "Wet it and Forget it". Mix as directions. Spray on dry roof only and leave it. It will turn the moss Yellow and later it will wash off with the rain. No rinsing or brushing and it will not kill your plants when it runs off roof. Best product I have ever used for moss.
@@cliff9685 If mixed as directed with water and applied on dry moss it will turn the moss yellow and it will eventually wash off the roof under heavy rain.
@@cliff9685 It is a slow process and depends on the amount of heavy rain you have after it has turned yellow which I have found is within 2 weeks. This is the only option I have found to remove moss without a roof damaging invasive process.
Would you kindly show a followup "After" video over the next month - 3 month - 6 month time frame to show hoe effective this is over time? Thanks a lot!
@@lbatemon1158 I used copper strips with uncertain results. I recently found out some shingle manufactures are including copper granules in the crushed shale surface. Lastly, I used a product originating in New Zealand called "Wet it and Forget it." Between the roof spray and the copper, I got good results on both the lichens/algae and the moss.
I'm watching everything you all put out about roofing because some shingles blew off during a storm and this video answered all my questions about the safety harness! Could you make a video about all that outside of the moss removal video? Love your show!
Also, a quick note on roof harnesses. The Workman's Comp insurance premium for Clerical workers is 12 cents per $100 in payroll. The Workmans Comp Insurance premium for roofers can be over $50 per $100 in payroll. QED...
I installed a zinc strip on my brand new shingle roof 3 years ago, moss is now starting to grow again and I live in vancouver, washington where it rains a lot so i will go back up and spray bleach on it again however i will use a stronger mix than you mentioned.
Tim Walker Same here. It also prevents regrow the for about 3 years. Initially it makes it look worse then it gradually removes it. Great stuff for sure
On my house, due to a walk out basement, the back of the house is 3 stories up. When I work back there, I put on a harness and I run the rope over the peak to the hitch of my truck parked on the front side of the house. It takes pretty careful measuring to make sure that, with the length of the rope, the truck is positioned correctly to not allow me to hit the ground. Better than putting nails through the shingles.
Tom I spoken with lots of roofers some say zinc strips copper strips help prevent moss growth, others say no and the reason is this metal strip may protect 5' of the roof but to be effective you would need to install several strips going down the roof to have any effect of moss growth.
Problem with talking to roofers is it can be hard to tell if they are the brainless type or the higher end half-brain type. Or that 1% that actually graduated high school and can think. 😁
I have A LOT of moss on the roof of my shed/shop here in CT. I put in a wood burning stove a little while back and used galvanized pipe to secure the stove pipe to the roof. There are two perfectly clean strips running down the roof starting where the galv pipe is secured. Now, the moss free strips don't run down all the way to the gutter, but maybe 6' down. And the galv pipe is an old soccer goal post and it's, what I'd say, heavily galvanized. I think if I'm going to do this zinc strip thing I'd want to find galvanized strips that are more heavily coated than the stuff they're doing in the video. The concept DOES work though, and that's cool.
There is usually a"first man up, last man down" rule. Someone with experience, who is comfortable on a roof, will be the first person on the roof to set up an anchor point and safety ropes and the last person own after removing the anchor point. If you arent comfortable doing it yourself it is worth calling in a professional. Jacks and planks may need to be used depending on the pitch of the roof in some cases.
Yeah I don’t want to buy a roof tether , anchor, and harness that I will never use again if the zinc strip does the trick. That’s about 150 bucks combined. It’s only for garage that’s 10-12 feet off the ground at the gutter. But the roof is extremely sloped. It’s not really safe for me to stand on. I just shuffle around on my backside up there and still I feel unsafe. What to do??
Amazon baby! Just look up copper powder made from pure copper. Sprinkle on the ridges and top edges of the roof on the first rake of shingles where they meet the vertical walls of multi-story. Zinc is okay. Copper has a much stronger effect and will keep the roof from staining, zinc will still allow the shingles to darken.
I also add Dawn dish soap to my chlorox/water mix to help the water be a better surfactant. I use a container with my solution that attaches to the end of my garden hose, not too harsh, to blow off moss instead of the aggressive scrubbing action they did. PS, I've worked on roofs for years and I've never installed a safety harness. Proper shoes and care, and you'll be fine.
Instead of putting screw holes in the roofs, I use a tie-off point, opposite the side that I'm on. Could be a larger tree, the trailer hitch of my truck or the skid-steer ( the keys go in my pocket if it's a vehicle ). The zinc ribbons are good, but once you're 5 or 6 feet away, it looses it's effectiveness. In moss prone areas, I run strips across every 5 or 6 feet down from the last. I use mastic to "glue" the strips in place. I don't like making more potential leak spots by top nailing.
Love everything great information. Other than the fact that you recommended using lead. Very scary solid metal there too much gets into your ground water. If you don't have well water it's soaking in the ground and then soaking in your pipes and coming back up. So I'm good on that. I'll go with the copper. Or the zinc
He did NOT "recommend" using lead. He was explaining the process how the metal prevents moss growth and mentioned other types of metals that WOULD do the same thing. Obviously the type he recommends is the type he used.
For a quicker clean, you can fill a pump up sprayer with some pool shock found at a local pool supplier. Dilute that at about 5:1 and spray on the roof. Let that sit for about 20 minutes and use a garden hose with a strong nozzle to rinse off. You will likely be able to avoid going on the roof entirely unless you want to install the metal strip.
@@tylersawyer9837 I typically use about 15-20% shock. The rest water. But, I increase depending on how much stuff is on the roof. It dies pretty quick and the next rain will typically wash it away.
@Mike Clarke: are the attach / anchor points exposed to the elements, or tucked in underneath the roof tiles? My tiles are glued down front and back - to keep out driving rain in the winter up here in the hills - and I'd have to pry them up; besides which they are rigid and thick, and not like the ones I see in many videos. Last thing: I have a vented ridge-line that is tall and even though I am light (150lbs) I expect it would collapse or buckle were I to have a rope thrown over it with my weight attached... so I'm thinking that I need 2 sets of attach points, one on each side of the ridge-line, which is a pain. (The v-shaped anchor shown here would not be flush with each side of the roof due to the pronounced height of the vented ridge.)
Good man! Since I started rooftop work, I've realized that what you've done, permanent ridge attachment points, should have been the first building code requirement ever. Roof work would be a lot safer for a legion of workers. And who thinks it's a reasonable idea to put a bunch of holes in a roof every time you need to go onto the roof? There would be a ton of easily water sealed attachment point designs developed by now, and techniques to utilize the ridge loops to get from gutter to ridge without a typical roof hook ladder.
I installed zinc metal strips on my then, brand new roof 15 years ago. It didn't do squats for the black strips that developed about 5 years later. Since then, I sprayed the roof with a product I purchased from Ace Hardware specifically for roof moss and it took care of it and hasn't returned in 3 years
a recent article says put zinc tape along the top of the roof peaks. when the rain hits the zink, the zink minerals rolls off the roof and kills the moss
But Tommy, what if you have to climb on your roof every year to sweep out the valleys of pine needles? I can't screw holes every year into the roof to reinstall the bracket and then caulk it or it will look like swiss cheese or chicken pox. Painting the bracket so it blends in with the roof color and caulking around the 12 screws in the same way as you sealed the nails on the zinc strip and leaving it permanently up on the ridge makes sense but it leaves it exposed to rain and rusting in the hinge or O-ring. I've been attaching my line instead, over the ridge to my pergola on the other side of the house. I lay tarp down along the ridge so the line is protected from abrasion as it slides along the ridge when I'm walking back and forth on the roof. The pergola is a massive timber frame structure and the 6x6 timber I'm attaching my line to is lag screwed in with mutiple sizable screws so the shear strength should withstand my 140lbs.
I use a rope system all the way across the roof, ground weight to gutter to Crest to opposite gutter to ground weight. No need to nail anything . Works on metal roofs therefore also.
I helped a friend of mine put up a metal roof and with each nail, we placed a rubber washer on the nail to ensure a water-tight fit. can one do that also or was that putty you used a better solution? DID you all revisit this roof to see if this technique really worked? I see people scattering a zinc powder (tide detergent) on the roof and let the rain rinse and spread the product. Any ideas about that? Thanks
No mention of ARMA during the video. At least they are using bleach per ARMA but for it to work properly, you need enough volume of water/bleach mix to fully penetrate the moss, not just misting it. If it takes several days to change color from the bleach then you didn't saturate the moss enough and the likelyhood of the moss coming off is very low as the roots will still be in the shingles.
I've been using Laundry detergent on my roof to rid the roof of moss...simply spread the detergent on the roof on a dry roof & let the weather do the rest...once last for a few years!
It's quite amusing that we had the opportunity to clean several moss-covered roofs in the Seattle, WA area, and interestingly enough, those roofs had zinc strips just like the ones shown in this video.
I use a 50% bleach mix. Apply on an overcast day so it doesn't evaporate away. When the moss turns brown it is dead and can be swept away. I don't recommend power-washers when the force can knock you off balance like on roofs or from ladders..
thanks for this nice tutorial, that metal plate fastened on the top of the roof to secure the rope, is there any permanent aluminums ones, after use once I don't need to remove it, just leave it on the top of the roof, because I go to my roof once a year to clean it, I don't want every time I go up I leave 12 holes, after 10 years it will be 120 holes , lol
If you aren't standing up on the roof like these guys were when they were sweeping and spraying, you don't need a harness. If you can't figure out how to crawl down to the ladder without falling off, you probably shouldn't be on a roof in the first place.
@@shawnheidingsfelder8179 Correct. If someone can't crawl back to the ladder how did they manage to crawl up there to install the bracket in the first place?
While somewhat worthy of your time & effort it's something I cannot ever fathom doing. If that were my biggest piece of the puzzle to land I would be clicking my heels !
I'm not a big fan of trees overhanging a house. Seen way too many roofs wrecked. One time was working on a house that had a pine tree overhanging the attached garage. The roof was so wet that we had to replace a huge section of the decking too.
So what happens when you need to go up on the roof again, which most do at times. You have to keep making all those holes in the roof to support the bracket or can you keep using the same holes you made and keep filling in with roof cement? I would think re-opening the holes all the time would weaken the shingle. Any comment on this. thanks.
best safest way to remove moss for homeowner is buy a product like "Spray-and Forget"(attaches to garden hose) and do the cleaning from the ground or a ladder. Just takes weeks before you see results!
I spend the money and get a tube of Through the Roof. You can put a shingle down permanently even on a wet roof. On a new roof, the face nails, I seal then grab some loose roof grit and drop in the sealant to help hide it.
I think you are slipping up. Those zinc strips do not protect the roof all the way to the gutter. Application of powdered or liquid zinc applied before the rain season will keep the roof clean. Brushing live moss will remove aggregate from the shingles. I have 40 years of experience fighting moss in the Pacific Northwest.
William Miller your talking about galvanized roof vents. Zinc is what makes galvanized steel galvanized. A galvanized strip at the ridge will work but it all depends how bad your particular situation is
@Jon Hawkins Because it is the only substance that kills moss to the root tips. Bleach oxidizes to salt water. Saltwater is sodium ions and chloride ions in water. Sodium is a heavy metal. Chemistry is your buddy.
@@Uncle-Bull I think you aren't considering that the roof vents have a whole lot more total exposed surface than a little strip of zinc. The amount of chemical washing off those and being concentrated in in the narrow line under the vent is vastly more than the equivalent linear section of zinc strip. Kinda make a case for the entire ridge cap to be a continuous, wide galvanized piece. Have attached in a way that it can be swapped out as needed to refresh the moss killing properties.
Funny I was just typing about using copper and they mentioned it. It is to do with acidity. The avid levels on a roof are higher. The copper runoff provides a neutralizer rhat assists in preventing the moss
Anyone like me that has battled moss on the roof in Oregon...... knows zinc strips on the ridge is your best friend. But that strip alone is not enough, you buy a granular moss killer and toss that down on a regular basis, say twice a year.
I had a bad moss problem with moss bubbles 1 inch thick. I used a product called Roof Wash from Wash Safe Industries. I made one application, and the moss was gone in one week.
Probably in the same manner before actually installing it in the first place. He had to be unsecured before installing, so he can be unsecured while removing it.
Swept it clean...by removing the moss and limestone from the shingles. Review the shingle manufacturer's recommendation and you'll see the correct method.
@@dennismurray8875 ...Ace hardware has 50 ft rolls ....Home depot also has it ... I bought and installed it couple weeks back after clearing my roof of moss...I won't know results for a yr probably....good luck !!
- Haha... I had moss growing on my shed rood that probably could have been mowed.... I carefully used my pressure washer and the shingles look great again!
skoot61 You did the right thing. Sweeping a shingled roof removes the grit from the shingles. Using a mixture of chlorine and water with a light spray will work quite well. I lived in Florida and had trees around the front and back of the house. With the amount of rain and humidity in Florida made for a moss breeding ground. The good ole pressure washer along with chlorine always took care of that problem.
My Suburu power washer would easily blow the composite shingles right off of the roof. I used the zinc strip as shown here. It definitely did not work. What did work was straight, full strength bleach sprayed on the roof.
I'd spray it with Wet and Forget or some other safe cleanser. No way would I be brooming a roof. But there's my armchair expert comment for today! I'm just not a fan of doing anything abrasive to a roof. Anyone who has walked on a roof knows all about how extreme granular loss can be!
Using a product called, Wet and Forget will kill this moss and continue to kill it after the application. Water soluble and safe for the environment! IT WORKS!
neighbor spent hundreds on that Wet and Forget stuff. works very poorly. Then I read that the roofing manufacturers assn recommends bleach. Cut with water, walk backwards with watering can to stand only on dry roof, then watched it die. Also safe for environment, because the gas evaporates and leaves nothing to go down the drain. Cost less than $5.
“I listen by sound”......brilliant!!!
So do I ;)
If you feel by sound, you need ear defenders on ;)
pmailkeey synesthesia can be wonderful
I smell by sound
I had the same problem and swept across the shingle edges with a straw broom. I used a beach solution as well. I thought there is a better way. Seeing this pro do pretty much the same,I feel better. Thank you Tommy and TOH.
In my 40 years as a roofer I have never seen moss and the additional moisture it collects make water proof composition shingles water permeable. Moss can hold moisture at the butt of the shingle close to the nailing line, and so close to nails. If the moisture is salty and the nails are not hot dip galvanized, copper, or stainless steel they may rust out. There are indications that some moss inhibiting treatments are caustic to the nails. In general moss growth on a composition shingle roof that is fastened with quality nails is an appearance issue. The sun's UV rays are the main source of composition shingle damage. The north face of a roof may look shabby, but the south face though looking fine from the ground, could be weaping due to lost surfacing, vaporized asphalt, and exposed fiberglass mat.
I noticed my garage roof has green moss on comp shingle butts under trees an a north facing side. IIRC 19 years ago when I stripped the old roof I never saw any real evidence of degradation in that area. I might add that the roof was at least 25 years old and still watertight, roofs last forever in my mild (40-70 degree) climate on the California coast, but since I was doing the house we went ahead and did it all. Do you think the safest bet is to just leave it alone unless it sweeps off? BTW I get the moss mostly from the fog making the trees "rain". I might add I am far enough from the ocean that I can get away with galvanized flashing.
@@monshes Sounds like you might be a neighbor. I'm in the Eureka, Arcata area of the California coast. Anyway I have not seen any functional benefit from moss removal. Loose debris and some moss can be removed with a blower, which is less abrasive than brooming. Appearance is a fair consideration in some cases, but moss removal does not promote or increase roof longevity in my experience. I have torn off a section of roof that was fully covered by a flat moss, like a carpet, but found no leaking issue, or water damage. Count the cost of roof maintenance, in time, in money, in effort, and possible danger. Remember even good roofs, properly applied, do wear out, and new ones cost a bunch. My idea is to only do maintenance that will forstall replacement. That would mostly be keeping the loose debris off, and trees/shrubs from overhanging and/or rubbing on the roof. Chimney, and skylight collars should be monitored, and prepped and painted as necessary. Plumbing vent seals, where pipes pass through the cone of the base flashing should be renewed as necessary. I have only seen moss be a contributing factor the one time in 40 plus years, so without further evidence, I believe the worry about moss damaging composition shingle roofs is much overblown, and causes unproductive, possiblely destructive, efforts. Good luck.
The only reason I needed to do this was because Farmers Insurance would not insure my home unless I removed all the moss. And is was minimal moss on a roof with no trees over it and not shaded by any trees!
@@monshesu
Not sure if you've covered this before, but screwing a bracket to a rafter through the roofing is a penetration. How do you deal with that? HOW GREAT! You actually covered it at the end. This is the first video I've ever watched where they talked about a harness and then followed up on what to do after removal. Thank you:)
Seal.
I am not a Home Owner "yet". But me and my wife are in the process of purchasing our first home in the near future. I saw this episode. And it will give me a heads up on a Mossy Roof.
Thank you to This Old House And You Tube 😀
I'd give anything to have Tommy "the legend" Silva come to my home and help me with a project. I'd even film it for posterity sake. These guys are the GOAT of HI. Grew up watching them and I always will - in reruns!
As a home inspector, videos like this are great for educating my clients. Thank you so much
That’s not really a great method of doing that roof. Soft washing would have been the best way use chemicals and light water. By first sweeping it you’re losing all of the granules. And now we’re hammering more nails into the roof for something that might work
Yep. I was cringing seeing him face nail that zinc strip. I'd never face nail metal on a shingle roof. When that roof contracts in the winter, that's going to open up. If they really wanted to self-seal the nails, they could've laid down a strip of ice & water shield first then lay the zinc over that. But even then, I'd never rely on that to keep moss off the roof.
I'd just give that roof a wash down every few years as needed.
But then again, I'm a roofer. ☺
I had this issue not as advanced. I used Wet & Forget Outdoor Algae remover, Except applied with 1 gallon bug sprayer. No harm to shingles. No rinsing off. Worked great. Read bleech can discolor shingles.
helpful video. I've been a climbing instructor for over 25 years. it might be helpful to mention that bleach on your rope and harness will degrade the material and shorten the usable life span and weaken the rope. If you do get bleach on your rope, rinsing the rope will help. the worst case would be repeated exposure to bleach without any cleaning. I hope this info helps somebody out there stay safe on their roof
I installed zinc plates along the ridge line of a new roof 6 years ago. Last year I saw that isn't adequate. I resumed treatment with "Wet and Forget". This is the right supplement to the zinc.
Gordon Adams string, and fasten on each end a permanent copper wire across the top shingle and forget
John Budd does this work better than the zinc? I have a friend who did the zinc strip and still had moss 2 years hence. (And copper’s easy for me)
jasonji1900 never tried Zinc. I have used copper.
Have been a viewer since Bob Villa and before he was gray! Have always loved learning repair and restoration by "best practices". It honors the home through developing craft. Thanks to all you gentlemen through the years for a great and continuing, quality show!
Use "Wet it and Forget it". Mix as directions. Spray on dry roof only and leave it. It will turn the moss Yellow and later it will wash off with the rain. No rinsing or brushing and it will not kill your plants when it runs off roof. Best product I have ever used for moss.
Agree
Does it work for the actual moss? Not just stains? I have a layer of moss on my roof but don’t want to go on the roof
@@cliff9685 If mixed as directed with water and applied on dry moss it will turn the moss yellow and it will eventually wash off the roof under heavy rain.
@@stevehudson4151 thanks! I’m looking at the xtreem reach one that hooks onto garden hose. How long does it take to work and fall off?
@@cliff9685 It is a slow process and depends on the amount of heavy rain you have after it has turned yellow which I have found is within 2 weeks. This is the only option I have found to remove moss without a roof damaging invasive process.
You're always the man Tom. U really know your stuff.
This dude , he actually listens by sound!
Incredible!
Would you kindly show a followup "After" video over the next month - 3 month - 6 month time frame to show hoe effective this is over time? Thanks a lot!
I've sent other videos where it shows the strips of zinc are only effective for about 5 rows of roof. So some people install the zinc every 4-5 feet.
@@lbatemon1158 I used copper strips with uncertain results. I recently found out some shingle manufactures are including copper granules in the crushed shale surface. Lastly, I used a product originating in New Zealand called "Wet it and Forget it." Between the roof spray and the copper, I got good results on both the lichens/algae and the moss.
I'm watching everything you all put out about roofing because some shingles blew off during a storm and this video answered all my questions about the safety harness! Could you make a video about all that outside of the moss removal video? Love your show!
Also, a quick note on roof harnesses. The Workman's Comp insurance premium for Clerical workers is 12 cents per $100 in payroll. The Workmans Comp Insurance premium for roofers can be over $50 per $100 in payroll. QED...
I installed a zinc strip on my brand new shingle roof 3 years ago, moss is now starting to grow again and I live in vancouver, washington where it rains a lot so i will go back up and spray bleach on it again however i will use a stronger mix than you mentioned.
I’d love to get your feedback on the results of that zinc strip, please.
I have no reason to watch this video other than listening to Tommy’s New England accent. Number one preventive step for a homesick Rhode Islander.
I have used a product called wet and forget for moss, It worked very well.
Tim Walker Same here. It also prevents regrow the for about 3 years. Initially it makes it look worse then it gradually removes it. Great stuff for sure
On my house, due to a walk out basement, the back of the house is 3 stories up. When I work back there, I put on a harness and I run the rope over the peak to the hitch of my truck parked on the front side of the house. It takes pretty careful measuring to make sure that, with the length of the rope, the truck is positioned correctly to not allow me to hit the ground. Better than putting nails through the shingles.
@@TPSBoston Not likely when it's not a "jobsite", but my house and I have the keys.
Tom I spoken with lots of roofers some say zinc strips copper strips help prevent moss growth, others say no and the reason is this metal strip may protect 5' of the roof but to be effective you would need to install several strips going down the roof to have any effect of moss growth.
Problem with talking to roofers is it can be hard to tell if they are the brainless type or the higher end half-brain type. Or that 1% that actually graduated high school and can think. 😁
If you still want an old house listen to this guy LOL. Blanchard Vancouver
I have A LOT of moss on the roof of my shed/shop here in CT. I put in a wood burning stove a little while back and used galvanized pipe to secure the stove pipe to the roof. There are two perfectly clean strips running down the roof starting where the galv pipe is secured. Now, the moss free strips don't run down all the way to the gutter, but maybe 6' down. And the galv pipe is an old soccer goal post and it's, what I'd say, heavily galvanized. I think if I'm going to do this zinc strip thing I'd want to find galvanized strips that are more heavily coated than the stuff they're doing in the video. The concept DOES work though, and that's cool.
Good to see tom still climbing houses
Great video, I am going to try a copper strip and see how that works.
So when you remove the bracket to seal up the 12 holes, how are you safely protected against falling off the roof?
You'd have to be pretty careless to fall off that roof.
Shh
Can of red bull in pocket 👍
There is usually a"first man up, last man down" rule. Someone with experience, who is comfortable on a roof, will be the first person on the roof to set up an anchor point and safety ropes and the last person own after removing the anchor point. If you arent comfortable doing it yourself it is worth calling in a professional. Jacks and planks may need to be used depending on the pitch of the roof in some cases.
This knowledge is secret and not revealed to those that shouldn't be on a roof in the first place...... :D
Wet & Forget Solution works great to get rid of Moss on Roofs and Wood Fences 👍🏻
"It's supposed to" lol
Ranks right up there with "Oops!" and "UHHHHHHH,hide!!!!!" LOL
"it's supposed to" is code for "I don't know, never tried it".
It's a three word disclaimer. lol
It's supposed to...
Translated:
TBH I dunno.
I fell off while trying to repair the 12 holes in my roof
😂😂😂
Hope you're ok!
I fell off whilst repairing 11 holes on my roof
Yeah I don’t want to buy a roof tether , anchor, and harness that I will never use again if the zinc strip does the trick. That’s about 150 bucks combined. It’s only for garage that’s 10-12 feet off the ground at the gutter. But the roof is extremely sloped. It’s not really safe for me to stand on. I just shuffle around on my backside up there and still I feel unsafe. What to do??
You could rent from Home Depot for around $20.
My brother just moved (in January) to the Eugene, OR, area. He said that many roofs there (at least, in his neighborhood) have moss growing on them.
I've been watching Spencer clays who deals with moss on roofs. Wanted to see how much difference Tom was in dealing with the problem.
Moss is freakin hard to brush off with a broom, that stuff really grows and mingles into the shingles 😁👍🏻
I like to spray it with a quick coat of bleach first then it comes off much easier. Then spray again when it's brushed off.
@@SilviaSchoolwhat do you recommend when the moss has creeped under the single and noticeably raised the edge of the shingle?
He has moss & he's not lichen it.
john w oh! I see what you did there... that's funny.
john w Boooooo! Lol; that was funny!
Bahahaha
Boooooooo
Hahahahhahaha
Amazon baby! Just look up copper powder made from pure copper.
Sprinkle on the ridges and top edges of the roof on the first rake of shingles where they meet the vertical walls of multi-story.
Zinc is okay. Copper has a much stronger effect and will keep the roof from staining, zinc will still allow the shingles to darken.
I also add Dawn dish soap to my chlorox/water mix to help the water be a better surfactant. I use a container with my solution that attaches to the end of my garden hose, not too harsh, to blow off moss instead of the aggressive scrubbing action they did. PS, I've worked on roofs for years and I've never installed a safety harness. Proper shoes and care, and you'll be fine.
I read elsewhere that using a detergent like dawn is not advised because it breaks down the shingles.
@@aLionhunts so far, my shingles look fine. No signs of deterioration. I bought the type that are 50-year rated.
I've never had much luck with zinc strips but here in Seattle, we have supermoss.
Live across the sound from you and I can verify the truth of supermoss :-)
Doesn't do much here in Tacoma
Sequim is pretty bad with moss
Southeast AK is even worse…
Homeowner is sweeping that roof like it owes him money
could you leave the bracket up on the roof and seal the holes before you screw them in???
Instead of putting screw holes in the roofs, I use a tie-off point, opposite the side that I'm on. Could be a larger tree, the trailer hitch of my truck or the skid-steer ( the keys go in my pocket if it's a vehicle ). The zinc ribbons are good, but once you're 5 or 6 feet away, it looses it's effectiveness. In moss prone areas, I run strips across every 5 or 6 feet down from the last. I use mastic to "glue" the strips in place. I don't like making more potential leak spots by top nailing.
Love everything great information. Other than the fact that you recommended using lead. Very scary solid metal there too much gets into your ground water. If you don't have well water it's soaking in the ground and then soaking in your pipes and coming back up. So I'm good on that. I'll go with the copper. Or the zinc
He did NOT "recommend" using lead. He was explaining the process how the metal prevents moss growth and mentioned other types of metals that WOULD do the same thing. Obviously the type he recommends is the type he used.
@@cdyoung976 I think Mike's got bigger issues if he thinks it's going to "soak in your pipes"
Hi TOH dudes, you can slip some flat metal/coil stock up in under them shingles when you're done with the brackets too, no caulk or you can caulk too.
Thank GOD for that safety harness!
For a quicker clean, you can fill a pump up sprayer with some pool shock found at a local pool supplier. Dilute that at about 5:1 and spray on the roof. Let that sit for about 20 minutes and use a garden hose with a strong nozzle to rinse off. You will likely be able to avoid going on the roof entirely unless you want to install the metal strip.
5 parts shock one part water or other way
@@tylersawyer9837 I typically use about 15-20% shock. The rest water. But, I increase depending on how much stuff is on the roof. It dies pretty quick and the next rain will typically wash it away.
I actually have several permanent attach points on my roof that remain in place across the ridge.
@Mike Clarke: are the attach / anchor points exposed to the elements, or tucked in underneath the roof tiles? My tiles are glued down front and back - to keep out driving rain in the winter up here in the hills - and I'd have to pry them up; besides which they are rigid and thick, and not like the ones I see in many videos. Last thing: I have a vented ridge-line that is tall and even though I am light (150lbs) I expect it would collapse or buckle were I to have a rope thrown over it with my weight attached... so I'm thinking that I need 2 sets of attach points, one on each side of the ridge-line, which is a pain. (The v-shaped anchor shown here would not be flush with each side of the roof due to the pronounced height of the vented ridge.)
Good man! Since I started rooftop work, I've realized that what you've done, permanent ridge attachment points, should have been the first building code requirement ever. Roof work would be a lot safer for a legion of workers.
And who thinks it's a reasonable idea to put a bunch of holes in a roof every time you need to go onto the roof?
There would be a ton of easily water sealed attachment point designs developed by now, and techniques to utilize the ridge loops to get from gutter to ridge without a typical roof hook ladder.
After watching this video I realized a permanent attach as well!
I installed zinc metal strips on my then, brand new roof 15 years ago. It didn't do squats for the black strips that developed about 5 years later. Since then, I sprayed the roof with a product I purchased from Ace Hardware specifically for roof moss and it took care of it and hasn't returned in 3 years
Bob Hensel
Was that product “Wet and Forget”? I’ve thought about using that on my home but it’s pricey and wanted to make sure it works before buying.
a recent article says put zinc tape along the top of the roof peaks. when the rain hits the zink, the zink minerals rolls off the roof and kills the moss
Philip DeArteaga if you watch the video they say demonstrate it lol
Safety is #1 priority
But Tommy, what if you have to climb on your roof every year to sweep out the valleys of pine needles? I can't screw holes every year into the roof to reinstall the bracket and then caulk it or it will look like swiss cheese or chicken pox. Painting the bracket so it blends in with the roof color and caulking around the 12 screws in the same way as you sealed the nails on the zinc strip and leaving it permanently up on the ridge makes sense but it leaves it exposed to rain and rusting in the hinge or O-ring. I've been attaching my line instead, over the ridge to my pergola on the other side of the house. I lay tarp down along the ridge so the line is protected from abrasion as it slides along the ridge when I'm walking back and forth on the roof. The pergola is a massive timber frame structure and the 6x6 timber I'm attaching my line to is lag screwed in with mutiple sizable screws so the shear strength should withstand my 140lbs.
I didn’t know I had a fear until I trimmed the sheeting on my roof when I built...standing 20 feet in the air and my knees started knocking
I use a rope system all the way across the roof, ground weight to gutter to Crest to opposite gutter to ground weight. No need to nail anything . Works on metal roofs therefore also.
I helped a friend of mine put up a metal roof and with each nail, we placed a rubber washer on the nail to ensure a water-tight fit. can one do that also or was that putty you used a better solution? DID you all revisit this roof to see if this technique really worked? I see people scattering a zinc powder (tide detergent) on the roof and let the rain rinse and spread the product. Any ideas about that? Thanks
No mention of ARMA during the video. At least they are using bleach per ARMA but for it to work properly, you need enough volume of water/bleach mix to fully penetrate the moss, not just misting it. If it takes several days to change color from the bleach then you didn't saturate the moss enough and the likelyhood of the moss coming off is very low as the roots will still be in the shingles.
spread sunlight powder detergent over top of roof, works in Vancouver,bc
One thing tom. Didn't mention. Is that the pros recommend to put a zinc strip on I believe it's every 6th row or every 6 feet.
I've been using Laundry detergent on my roof to rid the roof of moss...simply spread the detergent on the roof on a dry roof & let the weather do the rest...once last for a few years!
Good idea
They actually have roofing nails with a rubber seal around them. Much easier.
And not nearly as good
Given the schit quality of a lot of rubber products these days, no thanks!! And Thanks California!!
It's quite amusing that we had the opportunity to clean several moss-covered roofs in the Seattle, WA area, and interestingly enough, those roofs had zinc strips just like the ones shown in this video.
I use a 50% bleach mix. Apply on an overcast day so it doesn't evaporate away. When the moss turns brown it is dead and can be swept away. I don't recommend power-washers when the force can knock you off balance like on roofs or from ladders..
thanks for this nice tutorial, that metal plate fastened on the top of the roof to secure the rope, is there any permanent aluminums ones, after use once I don't need to remove it, just leave it on the top of the roof, because I go to my roof once a year to clean it, I don't want every time I go up I leave 12 holes, after 10 years it will be 120 holes , lol
Super Anchor Safety 2815 RetroFit Permanent Roof Anchor, Stainless Steel about $20
@@rawbacon thank you very much for the info.
I have a moss issue! Thank you..
So when you take the ridge bracket out and fill in the holes what's keeping you from falling off the roof then? A skyhook? 😂
Just turn on creative mode
If you aren't standing up on the roof like these guys were when they were sweeping and spraying, you don't need a harness. If you can't figure out how to crawl down to the ladder without falling off, you probably shouldn't be on a roof in the first place.
@@shawnheidingsfelder8179 Correct. If someone can't crawl back to the ladder how did they manage to crawl up there to install the bracket in the first place?
@@justindecker9557 it's for safety when your mind is busy on another task while on the roof.
You put the bracket within reach of the ladder. You take the bracket off from the ladder. If you need help have them draw you a diagram!
While somewhat worthy of your time & effort it's something I cannot ever fathom doing. If that were my biggest piece of the puzzle to land I would be clicking my heels !
I'm not a big fan of trees overhanging a house. Seen way too many roofs wrecked.
One time was working on a house that had a pine tree overhanging the attached garage. The roof was so wet that we had to replace a huge section of the decking too.
So what happens when you need to go up on the roof again, which most do at times. You have to keep making all those holes in the roof to support the bracket or can you keep using the same holes you made and keep filling in with roof cement? I would think re-opening the holes all the time would weaken the shingle. Any comment on this. thanks.
I tie-off to a tree or park the truck next to the house and tie-off to hitch bar or solid bumper, never poke more holes in your roof.
best safest way to remove moss for homeowner is buy a product like "Spray-and Forget"(attaches to garden hose) and do the cleaning from the ground or a ladder. Just takes weeks before you see results!
I spend the money and get a tube of Through the Roof. You can put a shingle down permanently even on a wet roof. On a new roof, the face nails, I seal then grab some loose roof grit and drop in the sealant to help hide it.
I like this channel, very profession experienced people sharing their wisdom with us
I think you are slipping up. Those zinc strips do not protect the roof all the way to the gutter. Application of powdered or liquid zinc applied before the rain season will keep the roof clean. Brushing live moss will remove aggregate from the shingles. I have 40 years of experience fighting moss in the Pacific Northwest.
Copper strips on every fourth row of shingles works better than anything else known to man to prevent Moss.
William Miller your talking about galvanized roof vents. Zinc is what makes galvanized steel galvanized. A galvanized strip at the ridge will work but it all depends how bad your particular situation is
@Jon Hawkins Because it is the only substance that kills moss to the root tips. Bleach oxidizes to salt water. Saltwater is sodium ions and chloride ions in water. Sodium is a heavy metal. Chemistry is your buddy.
@@thecloneguyz Yeah, but have you priced copper vs zinc? Edit: spelling.
@@Uncle-Bull I think you aren't considering that the roof vents have a whole lot more total exposed surface than a little strip of zinc. The amount of chemical washing off those and being concentrated in in the narrow line under the vent is vastly more than the equivalent linear section of zinc strip. Kinda make a case for the entire ridge cap to be a continuous, wide galvanized piece. Have attached in a way that it can be swapped out as needed to refresh the moss killing properties.
good info, didnt realize you could use less expensive zinc
I put a zinc strip on my roof like 10 years ago to help with the moss etc and it still comes back. Doesn't seem to work.
What is the lifespan of the zinc strip ? Any opinion on the product "Wet and Forget" ? Thanks !
Funny I was just typing about using copper and they mentioned it. It is to do with acidity. The avid levels on a roof are higher. The copper runoff provides a neutralizer rhat assists in preventing the moss
Anyone like me that has battled moss on the roof in Oregon...... knows zinc strips on the ridge is your best friend. But that strip alone is not enough, you buy a granular moss killer and toss that down on a regular basis, say twice a year.
I had a bad moss problem with moss bubbles 1 inch thick. I used a product called Roof Wash from Wash Safe Industries. I made one application, and the moss was gone in one week.
I’d love to hear a status update from you
So how do you keep safe while you're removing the roof anchor and filling in the holes left by it?
Probably in the same manner before actually installing it in the first place. He had to be unsecured before installing, so he can be unsecured while removing it.
On a gentle sloping roof, you don't have that much danger potential, until you move down closer to the gutter or gable.
Great job but I would of add dawn soap to loosen the dirt on the shingles
I think that's Fairy in England. Over here, moss doesn't damage the roof in the first place so we're not fussed about it !
Smart move add soap to a roof your walking on.
@@rapid8067 Don't forget to wear skis.
Why dawn
@@Abcd-hr9ot Other soaps are available !
Backing soda works too.
Tommy is the BEST !!!!!!!!!!!!
Swept it clean...by removing the moss and limestone from the shingles. Review the shingle manufacturer's recommendation and you'll see the correct method.
I've got terracotta tiles, different ball game altogether, loads of moss and lichen, like to see someone casualy brush that off.
Darryl Buckett research Softwash systems
Power wash it off
Sodium percarbonate aka washing soda & peroxide.
@@KGohBoy Thanks
interesting with installing that zinc strip !! thumbs up ....this is what I need to do ...
Yes, I need the same. Where can you get the roll
@@dennismurray8875 ...Ace hardware has 50 ft rolls ....Home depot also has it ... I bought and installed it couple weeks back after clearing my roof of moss...I won't know results for a yr probably....good luck !!
Tom is an amazing dude
I wonder if you could do something similar to keep mold and mildew from uglying up your vinyl siding???
- Haha... I had moss growing on my shed rood that probably could have been mowed.... I carefully used my pressure washer and the shingles look great again!
skoot61
You did the right thing. Sweeping a shingled roof removes the grit from the shingles. Using a mixture of chlorine and water with a light spray will work quite well. I lived in Florida and had trees around the front and back of the house. With the amount of rain and humidity in Florida made for a moss breeding ground. The good ole pressure washer along with chlorine always took care of that problem.
My Suburu power washer would easily blow the composite shingles right off of the roof. I used the zinc strip as shown here. It definitely did not work. What did work was straight, full strength bleach sprayed on the roof.
Like belaying when mountain climbing wrap rope around waist left to right,keeping rope in hands if rope slips u press down on thigh stopping fall.
Tree huggers gotta love it. Use metal roofing screws no tar needed.
Best "How To" show ever!
Very thorough and well done job!
I'd spray it with Wet and Forget or some other safe cleanser. No way would I be brooming a roof. But there's my armchair expert comment for today! I'm just not a fan of doing anything abrasive to a roof. Anyone who has walked on a roof knows all about how extreme granular loss can be!
The length of their harness tether concerns me. It looks long enough to either still hit the ground or be smashed into the side of the house 😥
Bunch of nancys. Just get up on the roof. Learn to minimize your risk by not being an idiot.
two beer limit when working on a roof
@@burtreynolds3143 Two beer limit? You mean two beer minimum, right?
If you afraid to fall you should not go on top.
@@davec.3198 Ooh, you're hard.
Tom Silva it’s great , it will be hard to see him go
Using a product called, Wet and Forget will kill this moss and continue to kill it after the application. Water soluble and safe for the environment! IT WORKS!
Or just put copper strips on every 3rd or 4th row of shingles and never have to worry about moss again.
This comment is more helpful than that entire video.
neighbor spent hundreds on that Wet and Forget stuff. works very poorly. Then I read that the roofing manufacturers assn recommends bleach. Cut with water, walk backwards with watering can to stand only on dry roof, then watched it die. Also safe for environment, because the gas evaporates and leaves nothing to go down the drain. Cost less than $5.
How can something water soluble stick to your roof shingles and protect year after year??
@@thecloneguyz Sure, just spend a fortune!
Wow that’s awesome video I’ve been looking for a visor like this good job guys
Won't you void roof warranties if you nail the metal strip to it ?
Love all of you guys.--Great job on everything you do.
Zinc works for 3-4"inches.
Oh. Well that seems simple enough. Thanks!
How often does the zinc strip need to be replaced?