Kevin: Some people don't want to do it because sanding is fussy around corners and edges and spindles. Nathan: I'll skip talking about just that hardest part.
Don't underestimate this job, it's extremely demanding. I am doing it right now and the sanding is immense work and there's no easy way to work around those ballusters
I'm doing it right now. I greatly underestimated the job after doing the ramp which was soft wood with light damages. They make it look a lot easier than it is: "To demonstrate how to repair these old damaged stairs, let's use this new undamaged stair thread without 10 layers of rock-solid varnish and no dark bumpy corners and edges".
I’ve got four layers of adhesive two layers of paint, and a layer of epoxy to work through. I have not made it through one step and it is four hours of sanding.
What grit sandpaper do you use inbetween staining? The same 80 to 120 used at the beginning to strip the stairs or a finer grit? That was omitted from this video. Please comment.
Manufacturers specify what grit to use between coats on the products label (generally 220) be certain the product you use is approved for floors, not all are such as minwax polycrylic.
I use bronze wool to buff between coats. Steel wool can leave particles that can rust, bronze wool can't rust. It's available online or at your nearest boat dealer.
lame video,,Veneer treads?,,water base poly/,,doesn'tt talk about the difference of water base versus oil,,what's the best brush,?,,also its possible to tint poly to change color,, what to do about blisters ,,, this video was NOT helpful
Kevin: Some people don't want to do it because sanding is fussy around corners and edges and spindles.
Nathan: I'll skip talking about just that hardest part.
🤣
Got to when it's no longer about repairs just views
Don't underestimate this job, it's extremely demanding. I am doing it right now and the sanding is immense work and there's no easy way to work around those ballusters
R&R them ,,other wise your there forever
I'm doing it right now. I greatly underestimated the job after doing the ramp which was soft wood with light damages. They make it look a lot easier than it is: "To demonstrate how to repair these old damaged stairs, let's use this new undamaged stair thread without 10 layers of rock-solid varnish and no dark bumpy corners and edges".
@@gilles-philippepaille2931 😂😂 same refinishing my stairs with old varnish dark stain...what a pain.Almost done
im thinking of soda blasting mine
I’ve got four layers of adhesive two layers of paint, and a layer of epoxy to work through. I have not made it through one step and it is four hours of sanding.
"I got a couple tricks"
Then he just sands and scrapes a little..
I would have never thought of that lol
Might want to mention if you want that 2 hr window to use water-based poly, oil takes a full day between coats.
I just did this a month ago!! Needed this then. But yeah I still watched AND learned.
So how do you repair broken/cracked stair treads?
wood putty/epoxy filler?
What grit sandpaper do you use inbetween staining? The same 80 to 120 used at the beginning to strip the stairs or a finer grit? That was omitted from this video. Please comment.
Definitely finer or you'll just go right back through the poly. 200 grit should work. Do as many coats as you have patience for
Manufacturers specify what grit to use between coats on the products label (generally 220) be certain the product you use is approved for floors, not all are such as minwax polycrylic.
You do not need to sand after applying an oil based stain.
I use bronze wool to buff between coats. Steel wool can leave particles that can rust, bronze wool can't rust. It's available online or at your nearest boat dealer.
@@2pugman Thanks! HD carries it too.
Can you sand the risers also? My stairs have sun damage, and have been sitting unfinished for 4 years.
After the very last coat of poly, do you sand that too? Or does the last coat get left as is?
Last coat is left as-is.
Sounds like Michael has one shitty weekend ahead 😂
That poly looks water-based. Think that’s durable enough or should I go oil-based?
Oil is extremely durable and worth it if you have the time.
Is Mike from the apprentice program you guys had done im way behind on everything
I think so. But he clearly has alot of background before that
Mike is the homehowner, this guy is Nathan and Yeah.....he's been Tom Silva's apprentice his entire life (i.e his son)
Do you sand in between each of the three coats?
yes,,read the back of can for gods sake
@@billhamilton7524what’s applying the tack cloth after coat of poly for?
@@johnc1280tack cloth is a sticky cloth that picks up any dust from sanding.
I love how this old house website is selling a simple coffee mug for 15.99
paint before poly ?? wouldn't you just paint before last coat of poly ?,or after ,,paint won't stick well to poly but sure will get into wood grain
Bring Tom Back!
Y is there never any "finished" video 😑
Thats polyacrylic hes using not polyurethane.
Not the same without Bob Vila!
I'll stick with carpet, less noisy and less slippery.
Just watch out for lead based polys in older homes.
There were no tricks here, just common sense application. 🙄
I love this channel, but that wasn’t nearly enough detail. It’s a much harder job than he’s making it sound like.
First
lame video,,Veneer treads?,,water base poly/,,doesn'tt talk about the difference of water base versus oil,,what's the best brush,?,,also its possible to tint poly to change color,, what to do about blisters ,,, this video was NOT helpful
Horrible explanation. I’m surprised given the channel.
He's hot 😻
desperate need of repair? dramatic
water based poly...junk
^
Who needs advice on how to sand and apply poly to stairs?? Unbelievable!!!
Water or oil based poly?