What an honor it would be to actually have Tommy Silva show up at your house and show you how to accomplish anything! Imagine trying to calculate somehow the influence this one man has had in the lives of so many for so long. Thanks again Tom! Stand back bathtub, here I come!
@@hsvr Way to go Beth! And Tommy is always so gentle as a teacher. Her skills improved a 1,000% from just listening to his advice and council. Great job and as always, you can bet there are just hundreds of people who have vicariously become Beth and benefitted from Tom Silva's steady hand. I know it's not brain surgery, but there's a right and a wrong way to do this. She did it wrong the first time, she knows it, just like so many of us have done in the past. He pointed that out in order to simply acknowledge that he saw it without making her feel insecure. I have learned more from Norm and Tommy than I can even imagine. This is the best use of the internet IMHO.
As a realtor, I can say the this old house is one of the most realistically useful home renovation shows. A lot of skipping the hard details in other shows.
Thank you so much guys. These videos really help when I do renovations around my home. Since they never had shop class in my high school it seems that the only way for a 24-year old to get home projects done is by paying someone to do it. Thanks to you guys I can do it myself.
Excellent video, but yah, that made me nervous, watching him cut toward his thumb with his knife. He should have used scissors or the cutter on his caulking gun. Otherwise great video.
The thing is, if you use the cutting tool in the same hand, you probably aren't going to cut yourself. It's like if you cut an apple, you most likely aren't going to cut yourself. There's something in your hand, a tendon I believe, that stops you from cutting yourself... As long as you aren't actively trying to inflict harm onto yourself. It's really not all that dangerous, as long as you're paying attention.
Great tip on top of this fantastic video is to fill the tub before you apply the bead. It seats the bathtub a little bit closer to where it is when in use creating the ACTUAL proper gap between tub and wall.
I like how they had the non-expert do it while the expert guided her. I think most people would feel like how she feels and perform similar amateur moves.
For me, since (no surprise) I managed to slop the caulk line a lot, the blue painter's tape was CRUCIAL and a brilliant idea. When I pulled the tape off, it looked like pro had done it!
Thank you for the video and just completed my first caulk application in our tub. I removed the old stuff and applied new one. Hopefully when wifey gets back from work she gives me the 👍🏼’s up 🤞🏼, but again thank for the video.
A couple of tips: wet your finger before smoothing the caulk, pull tape away at an angle and clean off the puncture tool before using the caulking gun. Thanks for sharing!
Wrong. 100% silicone dries very fast & you're not supposed to use "wet" anything on it. Since it dries fast, you should caulk/smooth out silicone by "sections of the tub" with a "gloved" DRY finger or tool, even a credit card works. Do not caulk the entire tub, then smooth out. Take it in 3 sections.
I love this channel - came in handy MANY times with my 120+ yr old building. A couple of tips to add here - 1. Don't go cheap on a caulking gun. Buy the better one because while a cheap one works well on a project like this, if you need it for exterior caulking and use something heavy duty like Quad OSI you will wrench your hand trying to squeeze the trigger because it is tough caulk that doesn't work on a cheap caulking gun. WORLD of difference with a good gun. 2. If you put a drop of dawn in a cup and mix with water, dip your finger in it THEN go over the caulking to smooth it. It will shape well, not stick to our finger and comes out like glass when you're done. Works on all caulking types.
I used to watch this show as a kid because it was so soothing and we didn't have cable. Now that I'm an adult I watch the videos online because it's so soothing and it keeps me from caulking like a mad woman and looking like the before.
I do a lot of redoing of caulking in showers. For removal of old hardened caulking, a lot of times I use a heat gun on about medium heat to soften up the old caulk during removal. For the new caulking, there are many choices. For white ceramic tile, I usually use white KwikSeal Ultra. It's a kitchen & bath grade caulking, very good at mold and mildew resistance, and it's water based. Not like full on silicone. I think it's great because it cleans up very well using just a damp large yellow sponge, which lets me get nice smooth caulk lines. It sets up in just a few hours, and when cured, it remains as flexible as silicone, and is also easy to keep clean. When doing caulking around marble, or other colored tiles, you can easily get tubes of caulking that match the grout color, or close to it. Tubes of these types of caulking are found in the tile sections of stores, usually right near where the grout is. Using a grout color chart, you can choose what color grout best matches your existing grout. Then you determine whether the grout is sanded, or unsanded. Sanded grout has a rougher texture, and is usually used for grout joints 1/8 inch or bigger. Unsanded grout is usually used on more narrow grout joints and it is a smooth texture. Once you determine the type of grout, and the color, you can get the caulking to match.
Go with a high quality caulk and that is usually determined by price. They will last a lot longer than the cheap stuff and it's only a difference of a few dollars. I also recommend a little dab of dish soap on your finger when you smooth the caulking out. It will prevent it from sticking to your finger and give a nice smooth finish.
Follow up after doing it: This video was an enormous help! Though a few things: I didn't have to use nearly as much as I though in my bead. Using the finger-press technique really evened it out and made it possible to use only a small amount. They should also note that you should NOT go back after it has had a little time to dry and re-touch with your finger, that'll leave an awkward non-smooth finish on the bead. Finally, when removing the tape, it left a small ridge of calk along the line of the tape, almost as if the tape was too thick, not sure how to fix that other than using your finger once again to make the transition between the tub and the calk smooth.
Just did my tub and shower with slate walls. Got tips from a ton of places, but the TAPE was the best tip of all! Allowed easy cleanup and also worry-free attempts at smoothing. Strongly suggest using your finger to smooth. My gun had a tool, but you can't feel with the tool, where the finger will let you keep going when there's a little bump so the spread still looks smooth. For a first time ever job, gotta admit it looks pretty dapper. The tape did a nice job making it look professional. Yes, since it was slate, I did use black caulk, but I didn't ask the store for it.
As usual, you guys always make it look easy! But at the end of the day (literally!) it worked out fine. The old caulking was not installed correctly, and I had to go through three razors to scrape off all of the old stuff from my tub AND the stone tile, which also was not installed correctly in several instances. I LOVED the painter's tape idea, though...it worked perfectly!
I have stopped using the blue tape when caulking because it leaves ridges and also I don't like to use to finger to tool down the caulk anymore due to the concave profile. I've been using my Cramer Fugi to tool a perfect profile and even put up a couple of videos with it it's much better, gives you a perfectly straight line without the ridges caused by the tape. I'm surprised Tommy did not show her that method it's actually a lot easier and it's a lot quicker than taking all that time to put the tape up.
Thank you for this!! I've been putting off replacing mine for years because I just don't have the confidence to touch things that I don't know how to do correctly.
The painter’s tape is a great idea, but you have to press it tight against the wall, particularly when you go over the grout seams. Otherwise, the caulk oozes up behind the tape.
Great video! Only thing i am aware from renovision was to fill the tub with water before caulking so that rhe max gap is set to reduce future separation
I just watched this clip this morning before caulking a tub/shower unit with painted walls. It came out great. I've caulked hundreds of these units. It's always taken me forever doing it freehand to get a fairly decent job. This technique cut the time in half with a super looking finish. The only problem I had was some of the paint came off. I thought painter's tape wasn't supposed to do that.
Idon't use tape. I put a small bead of silicone on and spray it with Sprayway window cleaner. Then I use a rubber caulking tool. It's way faster and I always get geat results. The window cleaner keeps the silicone from sticking to everything but the corner. Super easy cleanup. Love your videos, I think I've seen them all.
Yeah, with window cleaner you get a much cleaner result and avoid lifting from the tape and also voids or imperfections that are great places for mold.
Using WD 40 softens the old caulk making it easier to remove. Cleaning with rubbing alcohol after removing the old caulk will make it easier to clean up and dries quickly and you can apply new caulk within 15 minutes.
I think that it is a good idea to put water in the tub before caulking. We had our bathroom redone and when I sat in the bath I could see that the caulking did not cover everything. I read about the water in the bath and the last times that I did it, I put water and did not have any problems. I would love it if I could hire someone and they would show me what to do. Great video!
I've done this. .it's time consuming..and you definitely have to do a nice clean job..I've never used painter's tape..I mean it can't hurt.. thanks for sharing
Excellent tips! I legitimately had no clue that you were supposed to hold it straight out and not at an angle. So many people I've seen in person hold it at an angle! Thanks for the tips :-)
To add to Jason Turner's comment (which is spot on, btw): I've experimented with different caulkings for years as a tile installer and remodeler. My conclusion is that I only use silicone as a glue in moisture areas. So I hardly ever use silicone. It doesn't stay stuck as it dries out over time. When it fails- and eventually most caulking fails- it comes off in long strips. That's nice for removal but it doesn't all come off. It leaves a residue that is very hard to remove. Nothing, not even new silicone, will bond to the residue. So you have to remove it. Scraping won't get it off. The only thing that works really well is to roll up paper towels and soak them with zylol (or is it zylene?) while they are laying on the residue. Then you can razor blade scrape it off and wipe it with a zylol soaked rag to clean it up good. There are great adhesive caulkings that last longer for tubs/showers and are easier to clean up when needed. My favorites are TEC brand caulkings and Polyseamseal. The TEC ones are made in a bunch of colors that match their grout colors. So there are a ton of colors to choose from and they last a really long time.
Great video for a complete novice. Allocate at least a couple of hours to remove the old silicone. The video makes that part look easy but it's not. Also, use a low to medium modulus silicone for an acrylic bath (has good flexibility when cured). High modulus silicone is a lot more hard wearing but less flexible when cured. For those wanting to use a silicone caulking tool to finish the silicone bead off, the flat side of the tool should be facing the direction of travel, not the bevel edge (commonly asked question about these tools).
A GREAT video. After watching a bunch of others, where half the hundreds of commenter said what was shown, was wrong, I believe I’ll use this one, as a guide! Thanks very much!
homeowner: 'why use silicon as opposed to some other material?' tom: 'we tried cake frosting but it never lasted past the first shower.' homeowner: ' i feel like i used the proper technique this time.' tom: 'the last time it looked like three blind guys applied it with a broken tree branch.'
This video ruined my day!!!! I am 38 weeks pregnant and decided today would be the day I would learn how to caulk my bath tub as I wait for my first child. After all, I want a healthy, mildew free surface for bathing! I took the advice of this video and another video and spent HOURS removing all the old caulk. Like seriously, I scrapped it so clean for around 5-6 hours, it was sparkling. I added my tape borders so my lines would be beautiful, per the suggestion of this video. And I removed the tape immediately after finishing applying the caulk. And after about eight hours at this point, to my total horror, the painters tape pulled the edges of the caulk up. I sat there, sobbing, because I am a new home owner and I just worked so hard to make this look lovely. This video clearly states you need to remove the tape right away. But I REALLY wish they would emphasize if you are at all slow at applying the caulk (ie. It’s your first time and you are figuring it out), then remove the tape as you go. That was so much work and I have literally no results to show for it.
Sorry this happened to you...but I am so thankful that you shared this. I am going to do mine this weekend and I will probably be slow as I have never done anything like this before. Your tip is truly helpful.
That absolutely sucks. I’ve been doing Renos for the last 6 years, tried the tape method, and even with speed the tape can pull the caulk and you don’t get a good seal. There’s a $12 silicone caulk tool kit at the big box stores that makes cleanup a breeze and you get a strong, solid, good-looking caulk joint. Good luck to you all
Some advice for any other first timers using this for a tutorial so you can learn from my mistakes: 1) The caulk will continue to come out of the gun after you're done. They handed it off to someone for the show, but you'll need some newspaper or paper towels for the extra caulk to come out of until it's done. 2) Have some rubbing alcohol handy to deal with the caulk on your hands from smoothing it out.
If you just wet your finger with some water and you the caulk wont stick to your skin. This also helps make the caulk bead come out smoother. No need to waste rubber gloves or use isopropyl alcohol.
I like using a caulking bead tool set which eliminates the need to use tape all together and is faster and produces greater coverage and leaves a strong professional beveled look when applied. It also does not leave a ridge like when pulling the tape off. Love TOH, and big fan of Tom, I hope their is another segment showing my preferred method.
Silicone caulk generally stays where it's laid, no matter how thinly applied. The tools that you refer to are either rubber or plastic and will not entirely "squeegie off" the excess material, but will leave a temporarily invisible and seemingly insignificant film of silicone behind. This "film" will be the _first_ to start molding and discoloring. Taping is admittedly a pain, but I won't do it any other way. Keep the joint as narrow as possible, and move quickly using a moist finger. Doing this will keep the edges from pulling up with your tape. 40 years of doing this for a living. Retiring soon. :) Regards.
Great video, I see after you apply the caulk you have to use your finger to press the surface. Just for the record you really don't need painters tape just keep a straight line as you go.
Another method to consider is the paddle pop stick method. No masking tape required. Run bead of caulking and then spray window cleaner solution over the bead. Now run the curved end of a paddle pop stick (ice cream stick) along the bead …..you’ll need a rag to clean of excess caulking from stick. That’s it……the window cleaned stops caulking from sticking to the surface ……this way you’ll get a very nice tight caulking line.
The silicone I am going to use says water ready in 30 minutes, but the back says 24 hours. So the end was helpful when Tom said you can use it, just don't touch within 24 hours.
this was strangely healing to watch. he's like your grandpa who knows how to do everything home related
Three years later, in the middle of stressful move…and Tom Silva’s calming voice is helping me caulk a tub for real estate photos tomorrow. Thank you!
This show and UA-cam tutorials in general are a live saver for someone with more time than money.
What an honor it would be to actually have Tommy Silva show up at your house and show you how to accomplish anything! Imagine trying to calculate somehow the influence this one man has had in the lives of so many for so long. Thanks again Tom! Stand back bathtub, here I come!
🏳️🌈
@@hsvr Way to go Beth! And Tommy is always so gentle as a teacher. Her skills improved a 1,000% from just listening to his advice and council. Great job and as always, you can bet there are just hundreds of people who have vicariously become Beth and benefitted from Tom Silva's steady hand. I know it's not brain surgery, but there's a right and a wrong way to do this. She did it wrong the first time, she knows it, just like so many of us have done in the past. He pointed that out in order to simply acknowledge that he saw it without making her feel insecure. I have learned more from Norm and Tommy than I can even imagine. This is the best use of the internet IMHO.
He is a God
Guy has forgot more about his trade than I’ll ever know😳
Tom Silva videos are usually helpful. This one worked exceptionally well - I had never thought to use painters tape!
As a realtor, I can say the this old house is one of the most realistically useful home renovation shows. A lot of skipping the hard details in other shows.
Home Renovation DIY Jeff does multi hour long videos on projects that channel is the only thing that tops ATOH
@@rickyspanish9625 thanks for the tip!
With his tender touch and teaching, she was able to handle that caulk just right.
Keep your hand closer to the tip. Don't stop.
she's as much a pro with the black caulk as she is with the white caulk.
You sick bastard! 🤣
🤣
😂
This is why I love the entire cast of This Old House, they always show you how to DIY correctly 👍
Actually a great segment it’s very informative and even though they all seem a little staged the home owner seemed genuinely interested
if they have to retake a scene it kinda loses its originality. hard to seem genuine when saying the same thing three or four times.
Tom is so patient with people and a great teacher. Wouldn't it be nice if we all had a "Tom" in our lives. 🤩
Thank you so much guys. These videos really help when I do renovations around my home. Since they never had shop class in my high school it seems that the only way for a 24-year old to get home projects done is by paying someone to do it. Thanks to you guys I can do it myself.
Been watching this old House for 20 years. Guys are knowledgeable as hell!
He now goes by "ma'am "!!!!
Only Tom would use his thumb as a cutting surface, love these guys!
R E absolutely 👍... I love Tom and I’ve learned so much from this guy.
Every old guy I've ever seen cut something with a pocket knife does that so it must work.
Excellent video, but yah, that made me nervous, watching him cut toward his thumb with his knife. He should have used scissors or the cutter on his caulking gun. Otherwise great video.
Self-healing cutting mat!
The thing is, if you use the cutting tool in the same hand, you probably aren't going to cut yourself.
It's like if you cut an apple, you most likely aren't going to cut yourself.
There's something in your hand, a tendon I believe, that stops you from cutting yourself... As long as you aren't actively trying to inflict harm onto yourself.
It's really not all that dangerous, as long as you're paying attention.
love how you teach a beginner DIYer how to do stuff. Feels like someone is coaching me all the way through and it feels nice:)
Came here right before re-caulking my tub. Talk about just what the doctor ordered! Thank you, This Old House!
I've had and been using the same caulking gun for years and never noticed it had a tip cutter built in until this video. Thanks Tom!
I guess you are not detail oriented.
@@snowglider400 I guess your a jerk!
@@ryandavis8658 That is not true but I am not politically correct.
Thank you for this! I'm having to recaulk my own tub and I'm appreciative that you're showing us the proper way to do it.
What I’m doing right now. This tutorial popped up on my search. Very informative. He’s a great teacher.
Great tip on top of this fantastic video is to fill the tub before you apply the bead. It seats the bathtub a little bit closer to where it is when in use creating the ACTUAL proper gap between tub and wall.
Great advice! Thank you.
People always say that but I can't imagine how I would caulk around a tub filled with water. Plus all surfaces have to be completely dry.
Super grateful for the clear, doable instructions/coaching. For the first time in my life I caulked the tub successfully 😀. Yay. Thank you!
Painters tape was a great idea for a more perfect finished edge. Thanks!
As long as you're not caulking around an oval or doing sink in a vanity top.
I like how they had the non-expert do it while the expert guided her. I think most people would feel like how she feels and perform similar amateur moves.
For me, since (no surprise) I managed to slop the caulk line a lot, the blue
painter's tape was CRUCIAL and a brilliant idea. When I pulled the tape
off, it looked like pro had done it!
Thank you for the video and just completed my first caulk application in our tub. I removed the old stuff and applied new one. Hopefully when wifey gets back from work she gives me the 👍🏼’s up 🤞🏼, but again thank for the video.
Sitting in my tub watching this video. About to caulk it down for the first time in my first home!
Many thanks!
A couple of tips: wet your finger before smoothing the caulk, pull tape away at an angle and clean off the puncture tool before using the caulking gun. Thanks for sharing!
Wrong. 100% silicone dries very fast & you're not supposed to use "wet" anything on it. Since it dries fast, you should caulk/smooth out silicone by "sections of the tub" with a "gloved" DRY finger or tool, even a credit card works. Do not caulk the entire tub, then smooth out. Take it in 3 sections.
I use the tip of a cheap plastic spoon.
Yep!
@@forreal245 a
I wet my finger with soapy water and smooth the caulk all around, have been doing it fir years.
100% exactly what I needed to watch before doing my bathroom caulking!
I love this channel - came in handy MANY times with my 120+ yr old building. A couple of tips to add here - 1. Don't go cheap on a caulking gun. Buy the better one because while a cheap one works well on a project like this, if you need it for exterior caulking and use something heavy duty like Quad OSI you will wrench your hand trying to squeeze the trigger because it is tough caulk that doesn't work on a cheap caulking gun. WORLD of difference with a good gun. 2. If you put a drop of dawn in a cup and mix with water, dip your finger in it THEN go over the caulking to smooth it. It will shape well, not stick to our finger and comes out like glass when you're done. Works on all caulking types.
I used to watch this show as a kid because it was so soothing and we didn't have cable. Now that I'm an adult I watch the videos online because it's so soothing and it keeps me from caulking like a mad woman and looking like the before.
I miss Bob Vila
"hey there is the great cutter in the tool, check that out, but I don't like to use it I use my knife every time."
Thanks, Tom! If only I could hire Silva Brothers to remodel my house... that would be a dream come true.
This is the most thorough DIY tutorial ever!
Amazing video, thank you. I like that he uses tape. Even though it's an extra step from what many videos show, it's also a safeguard.
I do a lot of redoing of caulking in showers. For removal of old hardened caulking, a lot of times I use a heat gun on about medium heat to soften up the old caulk during removal. For the new caulking, there are many choices. For white ceramic tile, I usually use white KwikSeal Ultra. It's a kitchen & bath grade caulking, very good at mold and mildew resistance, and it's water based. Not like full on silicone. I think it's great because it cleans up very well using just a damp large yellow sponge, which lets me get nice smooth caulk lines. It sets up in just a few hours, and when cured, it remains as flexible as silicone, and is also easy to keep clean.
When doing caulking around marble, or other colored tiles, you can easily get tubes of caulking that match the grout color, or close to it. Tubes of these types of caulking are found in the tile sections of stores, usually right near where the grout is. Using a grout color chart, you can choose what color grout best matches your existing grout. Then you determine whether the grout is sanded, or unsanded. Sanded grout has a rougher texture, and is usually used for grout joints 1/8 inch or bigger. Unsanded grout is usually used on more narrow grout joints and it is a smooth texture. Once you determine the type of grout, and the color, you can get the caulking to match.
I have to do my tub today and never did it before. This makes me feel less nervous about it.
Tom is amazing I have learned so much from him...
I have to recaulk my tub soon and I was hoping you guys would have a video like this. It's PERFECT! Thanks so much
Go with a high quality caulk and that is usually determined by price. They will last a lot longer than the cheap stuff and it's only a difference of a few dollars. I also recommend a little dab of dish soap on your finger when you smooth the caulking out. It will prevent it from sticking to your finger and give a nice smooth finish.
@@screaminpotato great tips! Thanks!
DAP 3.0. Worth the $8 a tube, won't have to worry about it going brittle in a couple years and recaulking. Best stuff you could use IMO.
@@eduardo4135 why fill your bath with water?
Follow up after doing it:
This video was an enormous help! Though a few things: I didn't have to use nearly as much as I though in my bead. Using the finger-press technique really evened it out and made it possible to use only a small amount. They should also note that you should NOT go back after it has had a little time to dry and re-touch with your finger, that'll leave an awkward non-smooth finish on the bead. Finally, when removing the tape, it left a small ridge of calk along the line of the tape, almost as if the tape was too thick, not sure how to fix that other than using your finger once again to make the transition between the tub and the calk smooth.
Just did my tub and shower with slate walls. Got tips from a ton of places, but the TAPE was the best tip of all! Allowed easy cleanup and also worry-free attempts at smoothing. Strongly suggest using your finger to smooth. My gun had a tool, but you can't feel with the tool, where the finger will let you keep going when there's a little bump so the spread still looks smooth. For a first time ever job, gotta admit it looks pretty dapper. The tape did a nice job making it look professional.
Yes, since it was slate, I did use black caulk, but I didn't ask the store for it.
Wow she did a great job keeping the bead thin and neat 👏
As usual, you guys always make it look easy! But at the end of the day (literally!) it worked out fine. The old caulking was not installed correctly, and I had to go through three razors to scrape off all of the old stuff from my tub AND the stone tile, which also was not installed correctly in several instances. I LOVED the painter's tape idea, though...it worked perfectly!
I have stopped using the blue tape when caulking because it leaves ridges and also I don't like to use to finger to tool down the caulk anymore due to the concave profile. I've been using my Cramer Fugi to tool a perfect profile and even put up a couple of videos with it it's much better, gives you a perfectly straight line without the ridges caused by the tape. I'm surprised Tommy did not show her that method it's actually a lot easier and it's a lot quicker than taking all that time to put the tape up.
I concur it’s faster and doesn’t leave a ridge, maybe we can see Tom do it in another segment!
Thank you for this!! I've been putting off replacing mine for years because I just don't have the confidence to touch things that I don't know how to do correctly.
The painter’s tape is a great idea, but you have to press it tight against the wall, particularly when you go over the grout seams. Otherwise, the caulk oozes up behind the tape.
Yeah, the caulk does ooze.
If the tape busts open you can have serious problems 9 months later.
Try cleaning the surface with rubbing alcohol first. Also the Green painters tape works better than the blue tape.
@@JayZoop Pay attention to the video, she did clean the surface.
@@johnhipp8267 I was replying to Darren Miller, not correcting the lady in the video, so you pay attention! Quit being so negative.
World's most patient man.
Great video! Only thing i am aware from renovision was to fill the tub with water before caulking so that rhe max gap is set to reduce future separation
this gentleman just tech me how to properly caulk my bathroom, thank you so much!
I just watched this clip this morning before caulking a tub/shower unit with painted walls. It came out great. I've caulked hundreds of these units. It's always taken me forever doing it freehand to get a fairly decent job. This technique cut the time in half with a super looking finish. The only problem I had was some of the paint came off. I thought painter's tape wasn't supposed to do that.
Which caulk do you recommend for a fiberglass shower and painted walls? Thanks in advance.
Idon't use tape. I put a small bead of silicone on and spray it with Sprayway window cleaner. Then I use a rubber caulking tool. It's way faster and I always get geat results. The window cleaner keeps the silicone from sticking to everything but the corner. Super easy cleanup. Love your videos, I think I've seen them all.
Yeah, with window cleaner you get a much cleaner result and avoid lifting from the tape and also voids or imperfections that are great places for mold.
Using WD 40 softens the old caulk making it easier to remove. Cleaning with rubbing alcohol after removing the old caulk will make it easier to clean up and dries quickly and you can apply new caulk within 15 minutes.
The caulking I purchased on the tube it says wait 72 hours for it to cure.
But I love this video.
You showed me how easy this is to do.
Thank You 😊
the quality of the editing is out of this world, good job
Nobody lays caulk like Tommy boy! Another satisfied customer!
"move this hand closer to the tip, u have better control"...tom is savage
Haven't we all said it
"push it right in there, nice" -tom
Multiple passes is fine too.
maybe two hands might work too.. Tom is the man.
Tom is the man
I think that it is a good idea to put water in the tub before caulking. We had our bathroom redone and when I sat in the bath I could see that the caulking did not cover everything. I read about the water in the bath and the last times that I did it, I put water and did not have any problems. I would love it if I could hire someone and they would show me what to do. Great video!
Tom is one of the 'good guys' I've always heard told about!
I've done this. .it's time consuming..and you definitely have to do a nice clean job..I've never used painter's tape..I mean it can't hurt.. thanks for sharing
I like how caulking a bath tub is a longer video then reinstalling an entire Hvac system condenser and evaporator coil lol
This is a much more common DIY project. Most people can't DIY an HVAC replacement!
Lmao
@@RoastBeefSandwich but he/she wants to do himself/herself
If you don’t have something nice to say, right? :/
Cry about ir
This is EXACTLY what I needed to know before talking this on this weekend. Thank you Tommy.
Excellent tips! I legitimately had no clue that you were supposed to hold it straight out and not at an angle. So many people I've seen in person hold it at an angle! Thanks for the tips :-)
If you cut it at an angle then you hold it at an angle. In this video he cut it straight. There’s different ways
Most people in her position are probably thinking “can u just finish this for me, that’s why I called u here”
To add to Jason Turner's comment (which is spot on, btw):
I've experimented with different caulkings for years as a tile installer and remodeler. My conclusion is that I only use silicone as a glue in moisture areas. So I hardly ever use silicone. It doesn't stay stuck as it dries out over time. When it fails- and eventually most caulking fails- it comes off in long strips. That's nice for removal but it doesn't all come off. It leaves a residue that is very hard to remove. Nothing, not even new silicone, will bond to the residue. So you have to remove it. Scraping won't get it off. The only thing that works really well is to roll up paper towels and soak them with zylol (or is it zylene?) while they are laying on the residue. Then you can razor blade scrape it off and wipe it with a zylol soaked rag to clean it up good. There are great adhesive caulkings that last longer for tubs/showers and are easier to clean up when needed. My favorites are TEC brand caulkings and Polyseamseal. The TEC ones are made in a bunch of colors that match their grout colors. So there are a ton of colors to choose from and they last a really long time.
You have no idea what the hell you re talking about.
I suggest filling the tub with water before silicone. The weight of the water will make the tub set as if some one was in it.
😯
Yeah but then I’ll need scuba gear
THANK you for explaining things step by step...never used a calking gun before. This video was perfect.👌
What about a "caulking" gun?
Great video for a complete novice. Allocate at least a couple of hours to remove the old silicone. The video makes that part look easy but it's not. Also, use a low to medium modulus silicone for an acrylic bath (has good flexibility when cured). High modulus silicone is a lot more hard wearing but less flexible when cured. For those wanting to use a silicone caulking tool to finish the silicone bead off, the flat side of the tool should be facing the direction of travel, not the bevel edge (commonly asked question about these tools).
Rite. That takes awhile they skipped that part
Thanks for the info Da!
A GREAT video. After watching a bunch of others, where half the hundreds of commenter said what was shown, was wrong, I believe I’ll use this one, as a guide! Thanks very much!
Best video on Caulk'n Around I've seen in a while 👍👌
homeowner: 'why use silicon as opposed to some other material?'
tom: 'we tried cake frosting but it never lasted past the first shower.'
homeowner: ' i feel like i used the proper technique this time.'
tom: 'the last time it looked like three blind guys applied it with a broken tree branch.'
Hahah
Push it. Really get it in there.
I needed this laugh!!!!
I cut end of caulk with garden shears. Do this lot never thought about the tape-good job.
Tommy’s a pro at hiding the gorilla name on the silicone tube!! Haha
Zach
Why is he doing that tho?
@@deliaavalos1615 no free advertising - if he showed the name . we would go get, the Tom approved silicone
lol
This was a great video. I wish I saw this when I needed to work on my tub. This video definitely taught me a lot. Thank you!!!!
Tommy is a national treasure.
I legit caulked a tub yesterday in my house, needed this video like 3 hours before HA!
Last night for me!
In 15 minutes for me!
Best caulking tutorial I've seen
This video ruined my day!!!! I am 38 weeks pregnant and decided today would be the day I would learn how to caulk my bath tub as I wait for my first child. After all, I want a healthy, mildew free surface for bathing! I took the advice of this video and another video and spent HOURS removing all the old caulk. Like seriously, I scrapped it so clean for around 5-6 hours, it was sparkling. I added my tape borders so my lines would be beautiful, per the suggestion of this video. And I removed the tape immediately after finishing applying the caulk. And after about eight hours at this point, to my total horror, the painters tape pulled the edges of the caulk up. I sat there, sobbing, because I am a new home owner and I just worked so hard to make this look lovely. This video clearly states you need to remove the tape right away. But I REALLY wish they would emphasize if you are at all slow at applying the caulk (ie. It’s your first time and you are figuring it out), then remove the tape as you go. That was so much work and I have literally no results to show for it.
Sorry this happened to you...but I am so thankful that you shared this. I am going to do mine this weekend and I will probably be slow as I have never done anything like this before. Your tip is truly helpful.
That happened to me too
That absolutely sucks. I’ve been doing Renos for the last 6 years, tried the tape method, and even with speed the tape can pull the caulk and you don’t get a good seal. There’s a $12 silicone caulk tool kit at the big box stores that makes cleanup a breeze and you get a strong, solid, good-looking caulk joint. Good luck to you all
wow, such a great video. I had no clue the caulk gun had those features, the tip cutter and piece to poke the hole. Way cool!
Outstanding presentation and I was able to do this better than most things I try to tackle.
Some advice for any other first timers using this for a tutorial so you can learn from my mistakes:
1) The caulk will continue to come out of the gun after you're done. They handed it off to someone for the show, but you'll need some newspaper or paper towels for the extra caulk to come out of until it's done.
2) Have some rubbing alcohol handy to deal with the caulk on your hands from smoothing it out.
Thanks, Ginger.
better yet instead, of using alcohol, I wear a pair of Nitril gloves. Your hands might sweat butt the caulking won't get on your hands.
If you just wet your finger with some water and you the caulk wont stick to your skin. This also helps make the caulk bead come out smoother. No need to waste rubber gloves or use isopropyl alcohol.
@@reportingsjrWet finger is not a good idea for silicone caulk, only for latex caulks.
I was trained to fill the tub with water 1st. And leave it overnight to dry. That way when the tub is full it doesn't move and stretch the sealent.
Thanks this is just what we needed to watch. ❤ Thanks
Perfect! I will be doing that tomorrow. Thank you, Tommy!
How nice it would be to have a quaint little house like that.
Thanks for the great video. Personal, friendly and helpful.
I am going to try this technique! Thank you for the fantastic How-To demonstration!
I like using a caulking bead tool set which eliminates the need to use tape all together and is faster and produces greater coverage and leaves a strong professional beveled look when applied.
It also does not leave a ridge like when pulling the tape off.
Love TOH, and big fan of Tom, I hope their is another segment showing my preferred method.
Silicone caulk generally stays where it's laid, no matter how thinly applied. The tools that you refer to are either rubber or plastic and will not entirely "squeegie off" the excess material, but will leave a temporarily invisible and seemingly insignificant film of silicone behind. This "film" will be the _first_ to start molding and discoloring. Taping is admittedly a pain, but I won't do it any other way. Keep the joint as narrow as possible, and move quickly using a moist finger. Doing this will keep the edges from pulling up with your tape. 40 years of doing this for a living. Retiring soon. :) Regards.
“Let it go, let it go, just keep moving, move this hand closer to the tip”
“Oh ok”
“There you go, so you have better control there”
Now go ahead and fill that void.
What are you, about 10 years old ?
Grow up weirdo
She's a natural!
Using tape makes it look like I paid a pro top dollar! Every time Mr. Silva spoke, I learned something lol
She was a natural with that. I wish a number of my plumbers were that good.
I have always found it helpful to cut the tip of the tube on a bit of an angle...
Great video, I see after you apply the caulk you have to use your finger to press the surface. Just for the record you really don't need painters tape just keep a straight line as you go.
Another method to consider is the paddle pop stick method. No masking tape required. Run bead of caulking and then spray window cleaner solution over the bead. Now run the curved end of a paddle pop stick (ice cream stick) along the bead …..you’ll need a rag to clean of excess caulking from stick. That’s it……the window cleaned stops caulking from sticking to the surface ……this way you’ll get a very nice tight caulking line.
The silicone I am going to use says water ready in 30 minutes, but the back says 24 hours. So the end was helpful when Tom said you can use it, just don't touch within 24 hours.
Pro Tip: Use Frog Tape around the tile & the bath, leaving space for the gap; it will leave a crisp, smooth finish!
It would take longer to get that tape straight then doing the actual caulking. Great job, Tom.
She is now ready to handle any future caulk, nice.
Move this hand closer to the tip got me!
YourClit quivered ?
Tom Silva is BOSS.
Oy! That's clever! The tape and taking it off so early!
Found me my Knowledge!
Tommy is a treasure 👑
Great Job and like the way he teaches.. Absolutely make it clear
Cool. Thanks. It seems like this sort of thing should be obvious, but these tips help.