Replace Oil Pump & Pan on '95 F150; 5.0l V8
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- Опубліковано 21 бер 2022
- replace oil pan without draining coolant or any other lines!
timestamps by chapter in pinned comment.
Oil pan removal on the 80's to early-mid 90's 5.0l v8 is slightly different from most gas F150's. While this isn't the most difficult job it is dangerous, and does require you to work methodically & clean.
at 1:18 I meant to say don't use cheap straps. using straps are fine if they're rated for the load.
DISLIKE COUNTER: 12 - Авто та транспорт
0:00 - intro
0:35 - cut exhaust
0:57 - get ready to lift engine
2:47 - undo trans./motor mounts + lift engine
3:22 - skid plate
3:31 - drop pan
3:56 - unbolt pump & tube
5:21 - lift transmission
6:00 - slide out pan
6:32 - remove gasket & scrape rtv
7:29 - clean pick-up screen & gasket
8:00 - assemble new pump & tube
8:30 - hand prime & set shaft depth
9:13 - slide in pan & bolt in pump
9:55 - stay-up's & gasket
11:01 - tighten oil pan bolts
11:37 - drop engine & secure mount
12:16 - reassemble
13:08 - install hood
13:23 - final checks
13:37 - crank-prime (tip of the day)
14:00 - start
14:13 - re-check
14:40 - attach exhaust
15:08 - clean rust & paint metal
15:24 - outtro
May be the best explanation on the oil pan replacement I found so far. 👍
thanks
Best video I’ve found so far! I have the same truck, same color. Mine is 4x4. I was putting on a new water pump and broke a stud. I had to loosen the leaky pan to remove the timing cover to get the studs out. Saw the timing chain needed replaced. Now I think I’ll get a new oil pump while I’m in there.
haha nice. you should also check the two front motor mounts while your there. my passenger side one is really bad. I can't believe I didn't notice while I was doing the oil pump.
hands down the greatest repair video I've ever watched! thanks brother!
glad to help
Excellent video I got to replace my oil pump mine is still original from 1995 and I am probably going to go ahead and replace the oil pan too
Appreciate this video man. I’m going to attempt this because I’m hearing a little clatter in the bottom end of my 1987 5.0 hopefully it’s just rod bearings and it’s not too bad.
Incredibly helpful
glad to hear it
Excellent vid , Dude . Cudos .
Why did they design in like that i wonder. On my truck EU ford ranger, oil pump is on the side of the block beside the filter.
"Keep it in your pants Santiago! " 😂😂 smooth job as always man
Impressive! I got the same truck same year same model and desperate to do this.
right on! make sure you properly support the truck & engine. that's the most dangerous part of the whole job. also if you're getting low oil pressure on the guage it could just be the pressure sensor and/or the connector.
Awesome video ty
Thank you...Legend 🤙
If the studs holding your y pipe are still any good(or if you replaced them like i did) it makes the job way easier to drop it off and just pull the exhaust out or unbolt the catalytic convertor(if you still have the factory exhaust that isnt totally rusted out)
Have you done one on a 4 wheel drive and if so any different?. Also is the job easier to get oil pump out and in if you take off upper intake manifold so you can lift engine higher? Good video thanks.
that's a good question, wished I addressed this in the video.
yeah removing the plenum let's you raise the engine much higher; in turn making access easier. however theres a trade off in raising the engine that much. you will most likely have to drain coolant & disconnect the radiator hoses. either the fan or radiator will have to come out so they don't contact. plus the passenger side exhaust will need to be disconnected.
I haven't done this particular job on one with 4x4. but the only major differences should be that you might have to undo the driveshaft between transfercase & front axel when lifting. and the front axel will give you less space to reach/move around. but since it sits under the cradle it shouldn't directly block access.
Is there a gasket between the oil pump and block? I don't need to change the pump just the pan so should I buy a gasket for the pump too?
yeah, there is a gasket between the pump and block. I would replace it when you're in there. the original one might tear during removal, or it might have hardened to the point where it can't seal properly anymore.
Im working from the bottom with engine still in, like you. Can i just put the shaft in the oil pump 1st, and carefully bolt the oil pump back on?? Does that make it simultaneously line up with that distributor hole? As long as the pump is flush against the mounting area?
personally, I like to use a mirror to see the hole and slide the shaft in first. then hold it in place with one finger while installing the pump with my other hand.
with the pump bolted in, you should be able to slide the shaft up and down a little bit with almost no resistance. if not, it is binding or not properly seated. make sure the little hat thing on the shaft is in the same position as old shaft or it will bind up.
How'd you get the oil pump shaft back in? I almost forgot mine & I'm not sure I'm putting it in the right spot in the motor. Feels loose when I get it close to inserting in the oil pump
I used a snake camera to look up at the hole it goes in, while putting it in. a mirror would also work fine
@@jankcitycustoms thanks!
@jankcitycustoms so you started the threads on the pump and then fed the shaft up or the shaft was on the pump while you were bolting it in?
put the pump and pick-up tube in the pan. get the pan into position, then first feed up the shaft for the pump. once that's in place, hold it with two fingers and use other hand to position oil pump into place. lastly, you can bolt in the oil pump.
It was so nice of them to leave so much clearance for the pan to come out right i got the engine an tranny up as far as it will go ,pump an tube off an that pan still refuses to budge maybe a half an inch of clearance she needs a rear main anyway so im just gonna drop the trans an hope i can get it lined back up later
that's surprising. you could take off the intake plenum to get another couple inches of lift. but if you gotta do a seal anyways I suppose that's the way to go
@jankcitycustoms well trans was topped out ,so before It started costing me a whole lot of time an money I'm gonna just drop the transmission, pan will pull right out its a baffling thing though how I went down the rabbit hole of videos in the first place , I did the exact same thing you would do on any other truck of the 80san 90s an nothing I did worked mind you im not a novice at this just finished restoration on a 66 ambassador an it was less fight at 55 years old vs the 29 year old pick up rear main was the main point of the leak any way 2 birds with one stone I suppose there's enough new parts in her already to warrant the extent of the repair an only 210k miles its worth it too me with the ever rising cost of trucks
I’m stuck in the middle of the job and I can’t get the shaft in the right spot any tips or pointers?
the shaft for the oil pump?
get a mirror that you can stick in there, to see up to the hole it goes in. even a small flip open makeup mirror would work
I'm in the process of doing this. I'd rather file taxes every day of the year for the next 10 years than ever do this again.
haha. it's at least 50% easier the second time you do it
I still can’t get my pan off. 94 f150 flare side. Any tips? I took the plenum off so I could pick the engine up higher and still don’t have enough clearance to get the pan off.
@andrewnugent5044 have you unbolted the transmission and lifted it up as well? you should have enough room to remove it with the plenum off.
@jankcitycustoms If he hasn't then he definitely needs to. This job is impossible without unbolting the plenum, transmission and engine mounts.
I did the plenum and the transmission mounts and still need 1 cm for the pan to clear the transmission. This job is infuriating
How did you know that your oil pump was bad I think mines bad because when it warms up it knocks like a 7.3 with no oil pressure
usually as the pump wears out your low oil pressure light will start coming on, especially while idling. the only good check you can do without removing the pump is a pressure test. you hook up a guage to where the electric pressure sensor screws in. (above oil filter, behind pwr steering pump) the 5.0 idle minimum is around 7psi, yours may be different.
but I just changed mine preemptively because I already had to remove it while replacing the pan. also I think they all have a tick on start up. I usually run mine around 1200rpm for the first minute or two of warm up to get the oil flowing.
Hey, this is the same process with the 5.8 liter engine right?
sure is
What's the label cost. I found a 1990 f 150 that's needs a oil pump replacement. Good price but I'm worried label will be as much as the truck itself 😟
for this truck with the 5.0 engine, the book time is 6hrs. so it depends on how much your local garage charges for labor and a few other things. but roughly, at $135/hr. it would cost $810 for just the labor.
Can you remove the pan without pulling the pump out?
only on some trucks without the 5.0
the pan hits the crossmember and can't slide out unless the pump and pickup tube are unbolted and set inside the pan
How do I know if I need to remove my oil pump I need a pan gasket for sure and I have a 92 2wd 5.0
as far as I know its all f150's with the 5.0
@@jankcitycustoms oh dam why they gotta make a oil pan such a crazy job lol 😂
heh yeah, now a days is a little different. but I think when this truck was made. it was designed around the inline 6 cyl. so for the models that have a 5.0, they had to sacrifice some clearances to make it fit.
@@jankcitycustoms sacrifice some people buttholes lol 😂
How long did this take? I gotta do the same to mine
I would anticipate it taking 2 full days of work.
however it varies a lot depending on your skill level, and if you have a garage or if you're working in the dirt. also any rusted out bolts could add hours of work; they can strip or snap off. it's hard to give a definitive amount of time.
@@jankcitycustoms yeah, great, informative video! I had 1 of my 4 exhaust flange bolts come out right. One is currently broken off flush with the flange, with a broken easy out tip in it, the other 2 are soaking in hopes the rust will relent. should have just cut the pipe. was trying to avoid that. I'm going to dremel the broken easy out tip out of the flush broken stud. it is also soaking. spent yesterday working on the broken bolts. so...I'm up to three days, minimum. lol
damn I've broken off drill bits before that's never fun. I ended up getting a completely new exhaust system a few months after this video because the rust just made repairs on it impossible.