How to install an Oil Pump & Screen on a Small Block Ford 302 5.0
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- Опубліковано 19 жов 2024
- Buy the oil pump here: M-68HV: amzn.to/2uTdhE9
See all the photos of the build here:
302budgetbuild....
We are beginning the installation of new parts on the budget build 302 engine. We begin with the new high volume Melling oil pump and Melling oil pump screen. These parts are made in the U.S.A. and are very high quality. The oil pimp comes with a new hardened drive rod and the pump screen comes with a new gasket.
I just came here to share that you and this build series almost single handedly helped me pull and rebuild the engine in my 1990 Mustang about 9 years ago during my senior year of high school. Your videos meant so much to me at the time, that you were literally the only channel that I subscribed to on UA-cam up until about 3 years ago. I would open the video under the tarp that was strung up between the tree and the detached garage of my grandparent's house in the Florida summer heat and rewatch ever move multiple times until I was comfortable doing the next step. Once I finally got it, I would complete that step and then move onto the next one. Thank you, for making the life of this 18-19 year old kid so much better by showing me what others were not able to through your engine rebuild series!
Holy shit brother. I’m so happy this series helped you out like that. Super cool you sharing that info with me man. That’s amazing. Honored 👍
bolted it down to a dirty block with no gasket great work
OIL PUMP TO BLOCK GASKET, LUBE DRIVE SHAFT ON BOTH ENDS WITH LITHIUM GREASE. PUT SOME OIL IN PUMP TO LUBE IT ON STARTUP
Melling is great stuff, only pumps ill use.
Im working from thr bottom with engine still in. Can i just put the shaft in the oil pump 1st, and carefully bolt the oil pump back on making it simultaneously line up with that distributor hole? As long as the pump is flush.
Amused. Did this on my Supercharged ‘82 Bronco with the motor still in the frame (TTB front axle). Boy was that a challenge! Not really, but compared to doing it upside down on a stand it’s pretty annoying. But 60 PSI beats losing oil pressure with the stock 40 PSI pump at stop lights. Or even worse, when you have to loose a race to some stupid lowered Subaru.
Great video, couple suggestions - I know you did the first gasket to the block but don't recall you mentioning that? Also, can you cite the torque values (assuming 302) for these bolts, are they 35ft/lb?
Hello. I just got a 76 Granada with a 302. Supposedly the engine has been refreshed. New cam. New heads nd high performance oil pump. Problem is the oil pump shaft looks crooked and James. No distributor in the engine. I'm going to rrpkacevtfe distributor with new. But do I need to pull the pan to recover the rod and how do I know if it's the new aftermarket rod or OEM??
Awesome video brother
I just want to re-install my old pump, but I cannot find the pump to block gasket anywhere. Loads of pickup tube gaskets, but am I really going to have to buy a new pump? I know they are not expensive, but they also don't really fail easily. Maybe the lack of gasket availability is telling me just to buy a new pump.
But suppose I installed a new pump and then had to take it out for a different reason. Re-use the gasket? Seems crazy.
that was brilliant! thank you for the Tip!!
Does that hole enlarger over time or something? Had the dread shaft fall off the dizzy..
Upon reinstallation i find the tip of the driveshaft by the hole "boss" in the block seems really wobbly.
Had to turn the pump to seat the dizzy. Any ideas?
Bought the same oil pump for my 94 mustang but it’s hitting the oil pan slightly not laying flat? Do I need a new oil pan or deeper one?
I got a 1990 ford ranger 4c 2.3L with 8 plugs when I crank it up and it warms up it will loss oil gauge goes to L after I change the switch and oil filter it will only go down when I get it to about 25000 rpm and then go back up is it the oil pump or you think I just need to clean the screen out
absolutely great videos. keep them coming!👍👍👍
So that is the reason for the smaller front sump in the pan, so the pump can pick up oil. That seems risky because that front sump might empty on hard acceleration, or is there a baffle. Then the oil in the back sump must just sit there as there is nothing to draw it out for circulation other than hard braking would throw some forward. So does the rear sump end up with a quart or so that just never goes anywhere? Seems Ford should have put the pickup into the back sump and eliminate the front sump.
Forget the stock pump drive and get an aftermarket super duty one. I once got stuck on a highway with no oil pressure cause of a twizzler in the crankcase that snapped.
Is that the same procedure for 351 Cleveland oil pump towards the front with the screen pick up
Can you just use the old rod??
I've been trying to get the intermediate shaft back up in the distributor hole and it's so difficult because you can't see what you're doing. I thought I had it and reassembled the oil pan and started the truck... ticking from the valve train and no oil pressure.... FFFFUUUUU@#%^$#:!!!! Is there a better way of getting that shaft up in there without taking the engine out?
Great guidance
What oil pan are you using? Summit sent me the exact same oil screen and not sure it will work in my 87 5.0. Motor. The longer rod screen is what it came with. Reaching to the back sump, not the front :/
Lost oil pressure and just dropped the pan and replaced the rod, pump and screen. On my 88 GT. Found a handful of hard shattered black plastic in the pan. Can't identify to save my life. Put it all back together skeptically and seems fine but know I missed something from the debris. Have a pic but won't let me post here
timing gear teeth
I put a oil pump on a 361 Ford motor and it still isn't pumping oil, any suggestions
No lock tite on the bolts. Oil pump should have small quantities of oil already in it for priming. Will save you much next time.
How far away was that oil pickup screen from the bottom of the oil pan? I usually set them about 1/2" from pan bottom. I also put a tack weld on the pick-up screen to pick-up tube for insurance sake.
About 1/2”
Very good presentation!
Be careful with the high volume oil pump they are known for tearing up the camshaft gear that drives the distributor. Just make sure the distributor gear is the same metal as the camshaft gear. I had to learn the hard way.
So do you suggest going with a stock pump .?
You'll need to pull your oil pan. It's directly under the sumo area of the pan.
Ithought rhere was a gasket between the pump and block?
what the hell, it seems my pick up tube i took out 2 bolts connecting to the pump, but now there is a third half way down the tube. seems impossible to uninstall without completely removing the pan. My engine is installed and pan is dropped in order to do the work
is this what you have to use when changing from the new style pan to old style pan?
So are You going to pull the rod and main caps and change all the bearings while You're right there? The parts are cheap insurance. And while You're at it pull the pistons, clean the ring lands, replace the rings and give the cylinders a light honing to break the glaze. It's well worth the time as You'll know everything's all new as far as wear parts. Nothing like having an engine giving You trouble once it's all together. You might think the extra expense isn't worth it, but You're there already, may as well get everything right.
lol dude, hes completely rebuilding this motor, so yeah, its been done. follow the series.
can you turn the crank and show me on camera where the crank bal. to the oil pump. mine touching. i have a f150 oil pump hi v one too .haveing problems .
Strange issue, newly rebuilt engine. Oil pressure kept dropping driving me nuts. went from 15w30, 10w40, decided to do a flush using diesel fuel. Turned engine over, with coil wire disconnected from distributor. Turned it over with key alone pressure starting jumping up. I was like what the hell? So I finished flushing it out, drained diesel out, added 6 quarts of 5w30, one pint of break in additive. Oil pressure holding at 45-50. "crossing fingers"
good video, but how do i change the pump while the engine is already installed in the car?
I'm having trouble finding where it is underneath my car
U have to remove the motor
is it possible to do this without pulling the engine? cause if I'm gonna pull mine, I'm just gonna stroke it.
it is possible, may be difficult to remove your pan depending if it's a front or a rear sump
Removal and install is super easy. The biggest headache is the faulty oil pump screen design. The thing is press-fit which literally means it will never be perfect.
One thing, do not try and heat the pump and freeze the screen. That is what I did and for some reason they mounted easy and now the screen literally falls out. Don't know what did I do wrong, but it is now too loose and will not stay in. I will have to use something like JB weld to hold it in.
Say, did you get your oil pump in without pulling the engine? I so happen to have a 96 F-250, 4wd, 351W engine. It took me forever to install the new oil pump. It helped to have an endoscope camera though, as well as using two 3" bolts to align the pump and a nut on each 3" bolt to raise the pump to almost where it needs to be. Then I installed the gasket on one bolt, swung the gasket in place, then replaced the 3" bolts with the correct bolts and tightened it all down. Well, that's pretty close to how I did it. This is how far I've gotten today, as I write this. Next comes the pickup unit and the oil pan gasket. Oh, and not to forget the engine mounts, exhaust connections, the upper manifold plenum, and other components. Oh, and to ask for God's forgiveness for all the curse words I used while working on the darned Ford.
IT WOULD BE NIICE IF WHEN YOU COME ACROSS BOLTS THAT NEED TO BE TORQUED THAT YOU PROVIDE US YOUR FOLLOWERS WHAT THE TORQUE SPEC ARE
Torque spec… tight. That’s all you need. Don’t overthink it.
is it possible to put the rod in through the distributer?
Thank u!
My "check oil" keeps coming on in my 1989 Lincoln Town Car(5.0 engine), not my "low oil light", the "check oil light".
I changed my oil, oil filter, & oil sending unit.
What else could it be causing my "check oil light" to come on?
If it is my oil pump & oil screen, would you happen to know where it is located on a
1989 Lincoln Town Car(5.0)?
Thanks in advance...
You forgot to prime the pump.
I can't get access to the website with the build spread sheet and parts numbers
+Daniel Broshears hey Daniel. I had to do some work on the site. I'll do my best to get it all back up and online. Working on it
+Daniel Broshears site is back up!!!
hey bud, you forgot the gaskets , you didn't prime the pump ;-(
rest was good
eric christopher
oh and you didnt use lock time also
Looks good. Specially because it went from ford blue to a more like a Chevy orange color, and being a Chevrolet fan waht can I say, LOL......................
High volume is not necessary
A red ford engine What a disgrace
+ScreamingGoat43 thx
Holy shit! That was fast.
I painted my ford red, then I painted it blue. The red doesn't look as good in my opinion
@@Archifx right XD
I would Not recommend a high volume pump for a mild performance street engine. Hi volume is more for hi rev racing. You have to be running all out. Aka drag or road racing. There are vids here on utube explaining it in more detail.
these videos are the worst I've seen on the topic
Thx. Motor has about 65k miles on it since the build. Appreciate the kind words