I always use a Sharpie when I put cleats on a pair of shoes for the first time and once I've got them in the right place. In fact, just changed cleats and the sharpie marks are still on there from the first correct cleat positioning so it literally is just a case of putting it back in line with the marks. It's also worth mentioning that some people have a Varus or Valgus tilt. This is where there is some degree of knock knee or bow-leggedness. This can often be extremely subtle. For this, Cleat Wedges are a good solution if the shoe doesn't already have a slight varus or valgus tilt already. When I got a new pair of Giro Elite shoes, the foot pain was awful I put the smallest level cleat wedge on each shoe , was literally about 1.5mm at the thicker side but completely transformed how the shoe felt and the pain was completely gone. Just ordered a new Canyon Aeroad (Already ride an Ultimate). Very tempted to get a proper bike fit myself.
Puzzled why Jen didn’t suggest shorter cranks. Kyle's knee angle looks tight at the top of the pedal stroke, perhaps right on the limit for a 170mm set up? If knee pain persists, maybe consider 165mm cranks, especially as he is shorter in the leg anyway.
Quick and easy way to make the crash scratches less visible on Kyle brake levers is use a black sharpie to cover up the scratch marks, i’ve had to do the same on my brake levers and it works great. The scratches are still there but not as noticeable.
I think it is worth considering the weather conditions you mostly ride in when deciding to go with waxed or oiled chain. Here in the UK - and particularly so this year - I would definitely stick with oiled chain just because it has been so extremely wet and wax and wet does not go together very well. If you are mostly cycling in dry and sunny countries then that is a different matter but an oiled chain, even if a bit dirty, will run a lot better than a chain where the wax has been washed/flushed off by rain and road spray.
Sorry, that’s not my experience of running a waxed chain right through winter, just needs re waxing more regularly. Wet lube and road grit etc makes a very efficient grinding paste !
@@grahamricketts-bq1ft I am sure that there is some level of personal preference involved, then the length and frequency of rides, weather condition, how much time you have to tinker with your bike, and probably many other factors as well. Both have their pros and cons so at the end of the day it is probably just down to what suits you the best.
Wax chains are much more cleaner. One you go through the first initial stage of thoroughly cleaning the chain, melting and re-waxing is easy. You get much better chain wear also, think of the dollar saved you could then spend on Chia Latte.
Chain wear is one thing, but the savings on reduced wear on the rest of the drive is where the real $$$ are at. Have you seen the price of cassettes these days?
As good as waxed chains are (and they are really really good!) For the amount of miles Amy and Kyle can clock per ride, it would only be feasible if they were to carry multiple chains, I really can’t see a waxed chain lasting over 300 miles and after 150 miles it will be pretty damn loud. Drip waxes have quite a long set time for the emulsion to evaporate so couldn’t be used mid ride, however it would work say if they were doing a multi day ride which a break over night.
I've started using Fenwicks all conditions chain lube. Used to use the muc-off dry lube and found it made the chain and cassette really gooey and pick up all sorts of crap.
Just seen both your results on RTTC website, many congratulations on superb efforts, maybe Pinarello will lend you a couple of Bolide TT bikes for next year to enable you to go even faster, looking forward to the accompanying video!
If you don't want to go down the faff of dipping chains in wax I've been using squirt wax lube for years and swear by it now over a standard dry lube, much easier! Also Kyle's bike is clean! no matter how many times you wash your bike dirt always gets in your saddle screws 😂
I've been using Squirt for a little while now... however, in dry weather if I am riding all day long over say 2-3 days I am finding myself having to keep re-apply as it doesn't seem to last. I do really need to apply it last thing at night so it's ready for the next day rather than 5 minutes before I jump on ride.
@@BikepackingAdventures that would make sense my rides are 2 or 4-6 hours ISH 3 times a week and it gets reapplied every week at the start, I have noticed this latest batch is a little thinner though compared to previous bottles it used to be alot thicker! Still far better than muc off and other dry lubes, no matter how much I wipe that stuff down after application my chain is filthy by the end of the week!
@@overweightbadger ok cool. more than anything I am trying to extend the life of my chains. my muc off is still sat on the shelf after giving squirt a try.
Wax makes parts last longer as well...can be a bit more of a faff but in the long run I think it works out better and yes cleaner. I just use the Silca drip on wax.
Oils on disc brake bikes are a big no no…wax chains are a pain …I’ve done the full circle and it’s just not worth the hassle especially for your riding…I have the slow cooker etc and you need multiple chains to make it worthwhile (at least 3) as any benefits are lost after 200 miles…also when new the bike gets covered in tiny wax particles …between 40 to 150 great but simply not worth the hassle and cost of links etc…the best I’ve found is a full new chain degrease and wash and then wax emulsion lube such as squirt or my personal favourite is smoove …just wash off with a chain washer with half degreaser and hot water with a bit of fairy liquid…let it dry and relube…you won’t bother with the 0.0000002 of a watt gain for 30 seconds with waxing
Just watch your drive train wear out before your eyes !, also you can get re-useable links and in fact I just use a quick link multiple times and bin it after about a dozen uses.
@@TheBassallyear100 I do add a drop of drip wax to individual links between proper immersions and with quick links, so long as they "snap" when opened/closed I think that's fine.
Traditional oils are terrible at picking up dust and crud...that black filth is Microparticles of abrasive nasty....water based emulsion waxes gloop up a bit but easy to wash off with hot soapy water, bit of degreaser, let it dry and start over. Waxed chains are for the one off critical race, doing miles each week its just not practical.... by all means buy the boil in the bag wax and give it a go
11:16 Saddle further forward is being more over the bottom bracket and is more powerful for most people. I mean look at any professional they have their saddle as far forward as possible. But it is less comfortable for the average person.
Questions for UK bike fit - what would cause a riding pain in the lower right back? And what would the cause be for a pain in the right thigh area (could be hamstring, or onthe inside of the right thigh)? This happens to me on all of my bikes, and my guess is something with a leg strength imbalance?
When I was watching Kyle do all of that riding on his new Pinarello and then having some pains, the first thing that jumped to mind was not having the new bike dialed-in with the correct adjustments. Having been through a full professional bike fit to sort-out some issues, I will not ever do any significant amount of riding on a different/new bike without having that bike dialed-in to my measurements. The risk of injury is just too great. Previous poor decisions on my part (prior to my bike fit) caused me to be off of the bike for about 6-weeks to let an injury heal, definitely not worth it!
Hello! What if I have long legs and with the proper saddle height (inseam - 10 cm, or inseam*0.883) the knee angle is about 165 degrees? Do I need to lower the saddle further to reach at least 150-155 degree knee angle or leave it as is?
Question. What's the best way to buy the correct size if you have no bike shop nearby? I noticed that a lot of endurance bikes are recommended in larger sizes than race bikes and thus having even further reach/stretched out than the race bikes when you check out the geometry. Even the stems tends to be shorter, so it's also harder to swap for even shorter.
I believe generally better to buy smaller than larger, you can get longer stems and the like so easier to make a small frame fit than an over large one.
That's why I used a bike fitter before buying a bike. They even helped me identify models to look at once they have done their assessment on me. Ended up following their advice with a bike that fits like a glove. Money well spent.
How do you fit cleats correctly? I’ve googled it and over thought it so much I darent use them in case I get it wrong so still using mtb shoes. I plan to try them out,on the turbo over the winter where I can’t fall off!
Levers angled in being more comfortable is usually a sign the handlebars are too wide in the first place…it looks daft and not how they are intended to be fitted by the manufacturer….its a bit of a silly trend mainly due to the fact that integrated cockpits are typically too wide and limited in sizes…a 440 bar on a 56cm bike is not ideal most men are typically 420 or 400 shoulder to shoulder
@@grahamricketts-bq1ft 'Chai' I thought was tea in hindi, 'latte' is 'milky' ... a strange name for an ordinary cup of tea, and it doesn't look anything like tea! I could look the answer up but it would ruin the surprise when I eventually try one
Definitely wax your chain, so much cleaner and More efficient and no great chore to re-wax once you have thoroughly cleaned your drive time initially, after that it’s just a matter of dinking your chain in a crock pot of melted wax every 300k or so. Chain and cassette will last longer as well.
Need to see your 24 hour video, I hope im in it, i was the annoying bugger with the red berlingo next door to derby mercury at prees heath, hope i didnt wierd you out by being a massive fanboy : D
I have to say, why didn't you ask for a free fitting when they gave you the bike??? And , I've always said it, the human body isn't meant to undergo that much stress ( aka milones) , really , just enjoy riding , you don't need to cycle the world in miles just because of YT , its not healthy besides there's got to be house work or lawn cutting, maybe some laundry to do🤭
Wrong wrong wrong! Like I've mentioned before Kyle, the bike is the wrong fit and the wrong geometry for you. And now to hear that you've got 172.5 crank arms on...well, goodbye knees and hips!
I always use a Sharpie when I put cleats on a pair of shoes for the first time and once I've got them in the right place. In fact, just changed cleats and the sharpie marks are still on there from the first correct cleat positioning so it literally is just a case of putting it back in line with the marks.
It's also worth mentioning that some people have a Varus or Valgus tilt. This is where there is some degree of knock knee or bow-leggedness. This can often be extremely subtle. For this, Cleat Wedges are a good solution if the shoe doesn't already have a slight varus or valgus tilt already. When I got a new pair of Giro Elite shoes, the foot pain was awful I put the smallest level cleat wedge on each shoe , was literally about 1.5mm at the thicker side but completely transformed how the shoe felt and the pain was completely gone.
Just ordered a new Canyon Aeroad (Already ride an Ultimate). Very tempted to get a proper bike fit myself.
Wax is perfect! I switched from oil to smoove and it last longer and it's cleaner!
Jen is also super direct and als explains everything very clear.
She's great!!
Awww, Jen is way too nice. 🙃 I wanted to see Dan's mild annoyance and consternation about Kyle's fit. (And Amy's got that post-VO2 Max glow!)
lol i thought i was the only one noticing it 😂...especially when youre interrupting him with your rant
Puzzled why Jen didn’t suggest shorter cranks. Kyle's knee angle looks tight at the top of the pedal stroke, perhaps right on the limit for a 170mm set up? If knee pain persists, maybe consider 165mm cranks, especially as he is shorter in the leg anyway.
Quick and easy way to make the crash scratches less visible on Kyle brake levers is use a black sharpie to cover up the scratch marks, i’ve had to do the same on my brake levers and it works great. The scratches are still there but not as noticeable.
Good idea!
waxing chain is good, chain lasts at least 3 times longer. get the silca system, its very easy to use. keep up the great video.s.
I think it is worth considering the weather conditions you mostly ride in when deciding to go with waxed or oiled chain. Here in the UK - and particularly so this year - I would definitely stick with oiled chain just because it has been so extremely wet and wax and wet does not go together very well. If you are mostly cycling in dry and sunny countries then that is a different matter but an oiled chain, even if a bit dirty, will run a lot better than a chain where the wax has been washed/flushed off by rain and road spray.
Sorry, that’s not my experience of running a waxed chain right through winter, just needs re waxing more regularly. Wet lube and road grit etc makes a very efficient grinding paste !
@@grahamricketts-bq1ft I am sure that there is some level of personal preference involved, then the length and frequency of rides, weather condition, how much time you have to tinker with your bike, and probably many other factors as well. Both have their pros and cons so at the end of the day it is probably just down to what suits you the best.
These guys don’t strike me as being particularly ‘maintenance’ driven
@@GazRadCyclingNo, but the amount of miles Kyle and Amy do, the financial savings from reduced drivetrain wear from waxing have to be significant.
@@andrewmcalister3462 I agree 100% I’ve been a waxer for years.
Wax chains are much more cleaner. One you go through the first initial stage of thoroughly cleaning the chain, melting and re-waxing is easy. You get much better chain wear also, think of the dollar saved you could then spend on Chia Latte.
Chain wear is one thing, but the savings on reduced wear on the rest of the drive is where the real $$$ are at. Have you seen the price of cassettes these days?
Favourite cycling channel on yt at the moment :)
Aww thanks!!
As good as waxed chains are (and they are really really good!) For the amount of miles Amy and Kyle can clock per ride, it would only be feasible if they were to carry multiple chains, I really can’t see a waxed chain lasting over 300 miles and after 150 miles it will be pretty damn loud. Drip waxes have quite a long set time for the emulsion to evaporate so couldn’t be used mid ride, however it would work say if they were doing a multi day ride which a break over night.
I've started using Fenwicks all conditions chain lube. Used to use the muc-off dry lube and found it made the chain and cassette really gooey and pick up all sorts of crap.
Had a recent bike fit with Jen highly recommend she sorted out my pains and niggles.
Just seen both your results on RTTC website, many congratulations on superb efforts, maybe Pinarello will lend you a couple of Bolide TT bikes for next year to enable you to go even faster, looking forward to the accompanying video!
Thank you! Video out on Sunday ☺️
QD1: determining crank length?
QD2: determining stem length?
QD3: determining seat setback?
QD4: what about stance width?
If you don't want to go down the faff of dipping chains in wax I've been using squirt wax lube for years and swear by it now over a standard dry lube, much easier!
Also Kyle's bike is clean! no matter how many times you wash your bike dirt always gets in your saddle screws 😂
I've been using Squirt for a little while now... however, in dry weather if I am riding all day long over say 2-3 days I am finding myself having to keep re-apply as it doesn't seem to last. I do really need to apply it last thing at night so it's ready for the next day rather than 5 minutes before I jump on ride.
@@BikepackingAdventures that would make sense my rides are 2 or 4-6 hours ISH 3 times a week and it gets reapplied every week at the start, I have noticed this latest batch is a little thinner though compared to previous bottles it used to be alot thicker! Still far better than muc off and other dry lubes, no matter how much I wipe that stuff down after application my chain is filthy by the end of the week!
@@overweightbadger ok cool. more than anything I am trying to extend the life of my chains. my muc off is still sat on the shelf after giving squirt a try.
Wax makes parts last longer as well...can be a bit more of a faff but in the long run I think it works out better and yes cleaner. I just use the Silca drip on wax.
Wish we had a bike fitter like that where I live. They really seem to know what they are doing.
They aren't paying for it either, nor the tests probably..sheeshh
I need to find a good bike fit place around where I live... that looked like a great thing to do
chai latte all the way and totally agree the powder is best 😊😊 xx
It is 🙌🙌
Oils on disc brake bikes are a big no no…wax chains are a pain …I’ve done the full circle and it’s just not worth the hassle especially for your riding…I have the slow cooker etc and you need multiple chains to make it worthwhile (at least 3) as any benefits are lost after 200 miles…also when new the bike gets covered in tiny wax particles …between 40 to 150 great but simply not worth the hassle and cost of links etc…the best I’ve found is a full new chain degrease and wash and then wax emulsion lube such as squirt or my personal favourite is smoove …just wash off with a chain washer with half degreaser and hot water with a bit of fairy liquid…let it dry and relube…you won’t bother with the 0.0000002 of a watt gain for 30 seconds with waxing
Just watch your drive train wear out before your eyes !, also you can get re-useable links and in fact I just use a quick link multiple times and bin it after about a dozen uses.
@@TheBassallyear100 I do add a drop of drip wax to individual links between proper immersions and with quick links, so long as they "snap" when opened/closed I think that's fine.
Traditional oils are terrible at picking up dust and crud...that black filth is Microparticles of abrasive nasty....water based emulsion waxes gloop up a bit but easy to wash off with hot soapy water, bit of degreaser, let it dry and start over. Waxed chains are for the one off critical race, doing miles each week its just not practical.... by all means buy the boil in the bag wax and give it a go
11:16 Saddle further forward is being more over the bottom bracket and is more powerful for most people. I mean look at any professional they have their saddle as far forward as possible. But it is less comfortable for the average person.
Brilliant I found it very interesting so much involved in it. Do you mind if I ask? Is it very expensive?
Yes, $300. +... free for them im guessing
Questions for UK bike fit - what would cause a riding pain in the lower right back? And what would the cause be for a pain in the right thigh area (could be hamstring, or onthe inside of the right thigh)? This happens to me on all of my bikes, and my guess is something with a leg strength imbalance?
Waxing is the way forward, Silca wax is the nuts, I run a couple of chains and makes all your components last longer 😉
Can't you just use candles in the missus' frying pan?
@@JamesSmith-qs4hx it's bad enough using the crock pot after she has done a chilli !!
@@grahamricketts-bq1ft 🤣🤣🤣... It is a serious question though, would simple candle wax work?🤔
@@JamesSmith-qs4hx no idea, but granules off eBay are cheap enough with some ptfe powder added into the mix
@@grahamricketts-bq1ft OK Graham - Thanks for that tip - I will look into it😀
When I was watching Kyle do all of that riding on his new Pinarello and then having some pains, the first thing that jumped to mind was not having the new bike dialed-in with the correct adjustments. Having been through a full professional bike fit to sort-out some issues, I will not ever do any significant amount of riding on a different/new bike without having that bike dialed-in to my measurements. The risk of injury is just too great. Previous poor decisions on my part (prior to my bike fit) caused me to be off of the bike for about 6-weeks to let an injury heal, definitely not worth it!
Ahh yea, so important to get it right, Kyle won’t make that mistake again!
Great vid, I’m a bit behind on your vids, but will catch up!!❤️💪🏁🏁🚴♀️🚴♀️
Thank you!!
Hello! What if I have long legs and with the proper saddle height (inseam - 10 cm, or inseam*0.883) the knee angle is about 165 degrees? Do I need to lower the saddle further to reach at least 150-155 degree knee angle or leave it as is?
Question. What's the best way to buy the correct size if you have no bike shop nearby? I noticed that a lot of endurance bikes are recommended in larger sizes than race bikes and thus having even further reach/stretched out than the race bikes when you check out the geometry. Even the stems tends to be shorter, so it's also harder to swap for even shorter.
I believe generally better to buy smaller than larger, you can get longer stems and the like so easier to make a small frame fit than an over large one.
That's why I used a bike fitter before buying a bike. They even helped me identify models to look at once they have done their assessment on me. Ended up following their advice with a bike that fits like a glove. Money well spent.
How do you fit cleats correctly? I’ve googled it and over thought it so much I darent use them in case I get it wrong so still using mtb shoes. I plan to try them out,on the turbo over the winter where I can’t fall off!
Levers angled in being more comfortable is usually a sign the handlebars are too wide in the first place…it looks daft and not how they are intended to be fitted by the manufacturer….its a bit of a silly trend mainly due to the fact that integrated cockpits are typically too wide and limited in sizes…a 440 bar on a 56cm bike is not ideal most men are typically 420 or 400 shoulder to shoulder
My bars are only 380 wide i believe so more than narrow enough for me but i get your theory
Are they measured 380? what size is the Pinny / Poco?
Pocco is a 51.5 frame and yeah measured 380 👍
Question . I am always looking for ways to save money, so when I wax my legs, can I save this wax to put on my chain ...??
😂
😂😂
Very interesting thanks
Ollie Bridgewood of GCN swears by a waxed chain 🤩🤩🤩🤩
I have never tried a chai latte either! Must be a generational thing 😂
Ditto
@@Neilhuny ditto, gawd knows what it is !
@@grahamricketts-bq1ft 'Chai' I thought was tea in hindi, 'latte' is 'milky' ... a strange name for an ordinary cup of tea, and it doesn't look anything like tea! I could look the answer up but it would ruin the surprise when I eventually try one
where can we buy Kyle's La Squadra kit?
Who cares honestly, it's overpriced anyway
It’s not available unfortunately I don’t think 😅
@@amy.cycling.adventures That's too bad, they'd sell a lot!
Definitely wax your chain, so much cleaner and More efficient and no great chore to re-wax once you have thoroughly cleaned your drive time initially, after that it’s just a matter of dinking your chain in a crock pot of melted wax every 300k or so. Chain and cassette will last longer as well.
❤
What trainer is that?
Need to see your 24 hour video, I hope im in it, i was the annoying bugger with the red berlingo next door to derby mercury at prees heath, hope i didnt wierd you out by being a massive fanboy : D
Thanks for supporting and was great to meet you!
Ahh thanks for the cheers!! Video is out on Sunday 🙌
Looks like you've put out some big miles in the 24hr tt!
Strava info? Or were you there and took part in the same event?
@@Neilhuny Time Trial Forum website were posting sporadic updates of progress
Just about recovered now 😅
Try red cleats tighter fit 🚀🚴☕️
Small adjustments can make quite a difference, great video Amy😊Hopefully Kyle will be much more comfortable on the bike now👍
I like to pretend you keep the bike fitter business in the upstairs of your home.
Chai latte or shoe cleat fitter?!? 🤔. Chai latte, please!!! Cheers!!! 🥂
😂😂
Is Jen single? Asking for a friend :)
Rule 1-get bike, look at it, have fit and then ride!
Waxed is the way! Relax after 1000 miles and top up with liquid wax every 200 miles.
Wax chain the way forward. Watch Oz cycle for tips better than GCN
I have to say, why didn't you ask for a free fitting when they gave you the bike??? And , I've always said it, the human body isn't meant to undergo that much stress ( aka milones) , really , just enjoy riding , you don't need to cycle the world in miles just because of YT , its not healthy besides there's got to be house work or lawn cutting, maybe some laundry to do🤭
Wrong wrong wrong! Like I've mentioned before Kyle, the bike is the wrong fit and the wrong geometry for you. And now to hear that you've got 172.5 crank arms on...well, goodbye knees and hips!
Seems like the bike fitter disagrees
Doesn't she sell snakeoil as well!
They’re 170 cranks