The 10 Most Common Bike Fit Mistakes - THIS Could Be Why You're UNCOMFORTABLE On The Bike!
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- Опубліковано 22 тра 2024
- We're back with a professional bike fitter to see what bike fit mistakes are the most common. From saddle height to cleat position and cycling shoe choice.
The study that Luke referenced:
pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/21311...
A link to the Synergy Performance UA-cam channel for more in-depth bike fit videos:
/ @synergy_performance
Let us know if you've made any of these bike fit mistakes in the comments below...
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⚫️ In this video
0:00 Introduction
0:35 Saddle too high
2:08 Shoes too narrow
03:59 Cleat setup
05:14 Saddle angle
06:25 Q factor
08:55 Crank length
10:52 Reach too long
12:43 Shifter angle
14:36 Bars too wide
15:40 Sub optimal geometry
17:45 Outro
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Can you please do a video where 3 bike fitters all do a fit for one rider, then they have to discuss with each other how none of their fits are identical and explain their reasoning. I’d find that fascinating
100%. You can have multiple fitters "fit" you and each fit will be different.
That's a good point. A couple other guys that comes to mind are Scott Maclean of Bulletproof Cycling and Neil Standbury of Road Cycling Academy.
That was an excellent vid on bike fitting......Really like the way this guy delivers the information👍🏻👍🏻
Had a bike fit with Luke last month after 30 years of riding racing. Luke has changed several things a small amount, and my ride quality, comfort, connection to the bike has changed so much for the better it's incredible, thoroughly recommended.
the best video on bike fitting theory on youtube. Give the man a drink on me
Had a fit with Luke back in January and had a recent follow up fit where we made some further smaller adjustments. We made some pretty substantial changes to all contact points and as expected it’s taken a while to adjust. Comfort levels have gone up massively and my pedal stroke feels much more planted. I’ve been riding bikes for a long time and it’s reassuring to have support from fitters like Luke who are able to take into account each person’s particular injury history/nuances. Highly recommended!
Good overview, however one thing i'd point out is that tilting the saddle slightly down can have some benefits too, as in creating some important space to allow you to "roll your pelvis" (anteriorly). This can substantially reduce pressure in your lower back and smoothen your spine curvature and allow better upper back rounding + proper ribcage/diaphragm + scapular engagement, with the latter, as a result, also helping in freeing up your neck.
Kind of important for lower back pain in people that naturally have a posterior pelvic tilt or that struggle with glutes and hamstrings stretch/recruitment and especially helpful to preserve comfort when in need of switching into drop position for a prolonged amount of time (ie strong headwinds).
Yes the downside is that you will shift your center of mass slightly forward, have more pressure on hands and give your triceps some workout depending on your reach and stack measurements. How slippery the saddle is also limits you in this regard and makes this adjustment less worthy. Something for something.
Great video. I loved hearing a fit specialist talk about shoe width. Super overlooked and very fixable source of problems!
Great video. Thanks for making it!
Excellent info
I had a guy at a shop I used all the time talk me into going a little shorter on my cranks in 1991. I have since moved up to 175 because that is what comes on bike in my size. I guess he was ahead of his time. I've also always use 44cm bars. Just recently a fitter told me I would be better with a 42. I put 42 on my new bike and I have to say I do like it better.
#4 Saddle Angle - I've seen a LOT of bikes with the saddle angled down in front which I thought was "wrong" but didn't know why. Thanks for the good explanation that this typically is the sign of a fit issue.
Great video! 👌🏽
Glad you liked it!
Finally, the 100th video about what we're all doing wrong.
Thank you!
Regarding the hand position. Imho it really depends what kind of effort you doing. If I go slowly up a hill, I could easily do with 10-20mm less stem length. If I do threshold effort on the flats, I feel like stem length could be 10-20mm longer.
Everything in bike fitting (and life?) is a compromise. There is no single option that works "best" for everything, so considering your individual needs, preferences and things like times in each of those related use case are variables for use to make a decision on setup and component selection.
I ride in a more aggressive fit than what my bike fitter prescribed but that means I have to stretch more and do some not-so-sexy S&C work every other day. I actually enjoy the process! ❤
At Last ! someone talking commonsense 👍
I fell into the Q factor issue. I ran it so long and rode so much my inner quad muscle wilted away because I was flaring my knees. I pushed my cleats in on my shoes and added spacers and my Vastus medialis is coming back.
Great video, unlike some other channels (C@de), the bike fitter isn't some shouty zealot! I checked my road bike, found it was 1 cm higher than my other bikes 😮
There's a snake oil element to the bike-fit boom of the last 8 years
#2 Shoe Fit - YES! I'm rather annoyed with the cycling shoe industry in that cycling shoes are made to look cool, not to fit a foot. Even Lake shoes (my favorite) are too pointy in the toe area with the exception of their very limited selection of shoes built on the "comfort plus" last.
Very interesting. I know I need a new bike fit but I don't know where to find shoes that fit wide and high arch feet for women.
Lake Shoes
Get.
A.
Bike.
Fit.
How do you know what crank length is the right one? I'm 1.76m and I use schimano 172.5mm
Often I feel the stroke is very long and takes forever to do a revolution. I haven't tried shorter but I wouldn't want to purchase one and realise is not the right one... os there a recommendation in this respect?
first thing to be comfy on the bike is to buy endurance oriented bike :) today everyone has racing bike, it is like every car on the road was superstiff sports car, and then we would want to be comfy inside :)
I'm yet to find cycling shoes with a wide toe box. If anyone has tips, I'm taking it.
At 1:20 you mention that pedal power stroke from two-to four o'clock is not ideal. Can you please inform me where the power stroke is most efficient?
Hi there, you want to aim for more consistent power throughout the pedal stroke to share the load across more muscle groups For example, 1-5 o'clock would be an improvement on 2-4
👍
IDK, my inseam dictates a 52 cm frame and my height dictates a 56 cm frame. So I compromised and got a 54 cm frame. However, my arms are apparently shorter than normal for my height. Therefore, it seems that to reach the hoods causes me to slip towards the nose of the saddle while riding. So maybe I need a 52 cm frame. Or I need to install a shorter stem or I need to install a stem that is angled up. I really do not know what to do. Please advise?
Установи короткие шатуны 160 мм
Shorter stem, maybe shorter reach bars, move brake levers up the bars a bit, perhaps turn the levers slightly inward. Also, experiment with the amount of saddle set back. You may need shorter cranks to get the seat up to a better height. Yes, I have the same issue. In my case, shorter cranks (172.5 to 165), shorter stem and less seat post setback solved the issues.
To get the right size frame, you have to pick the one that perfectly balances (with the appropriate set back on the seatpost) your weight when pedaling under moderate or typical effort. This means that your hands will float on the top of the bars with very little pressure, when you pedal. Your the position of your hips relative to the BB is what allows your upper body to be cantilevered over the hoods and achieve such a balance. See where your hands fall naturally, when you are in a riding position and pedaling. Choose the frame that best accommodates: 1) fore/aft balance and 2) hand position by the choice of top tube and stem length. Try to pick a frame that gives you a stem length of 80-120mm, inverting and adding spacers if necessary. A bike fitter can figure all of this out using a fitting device that allows for the saddle and bars to be moved. Many people can be fitted correctly on two different frame sizes (with different choices of seat post and stem), but I find that the smaller frame handles better with a longer stem, than the opposite. In your case, I think an endurance style frame (e.g. Trek Domane, Giant Defy) will fit best because of its high stack and short reach. You can also fit it with a shorter crank (165mm) for more comfort.
@@bengt_axle Thank you for the reply. My bike is a Domane. I got to ride it yesterday. The problem is that my torso is so long and my reach so short that my arms are almost at 80 degrees. And I cannot set upright at all because my torso has to be bent over to reach the bars. And thus the weight of my torso has to be held up by my arms and hands. And that causes me to slide forward on the saddle because the saddle is not carrying my weight. A shorter bike would cause my arms to be straight down and a longer bike would make me have to bend over even further. So the only solution I see is to raise the handlebars by about 4 inches.
@@michaelsherwin4449 You need to slide the saddle back as far as possible. Racing seatposts have a setback of 32mm, so as to allow the racers to use a smaller frame and balance their weight and take the load off the hands, just like you are currently experiencing. Additionally, you may find that a saddle like SMP Dynamic which is very curved, will allow you to raise the nose, shift the balance to the back and relieve hand pressure, all without increasing pressure on your anterior perineal area. But the first approach should be to slide the saddle back. To try an experiment, go to a spin bike studio and then try different positions of saddle setback and see how they affect your hands. Take measurements of the most comfortable positions and then try to reproduce on your Domane. You also must learn to sit on a road bike with your core engaged (i.e. pull in belly button a bit and lift pelvic floor slightly). A strong core will help support your torso. Look up a picture of Johan Vansummaren, when he was riding for Garmin or Agr2. He looks like a giant on a tiny bike. It is possible to get a functional fit, even for an odd morphology.
Not many shoe manufacturers make proper shoes.
Just look at either Lake or Bont and you’ll probably find something that actually fits.
Incorrect. Lots make great shoes, if they suit your feet
@@matthewlewis2072 most are way too narrow.
Surely it's far more common to see people, particularly men, with their bars too narrow?
Based on what requirement specifically?
The belief it makes them more aero, understandable for pros and high grade racers but not average cyclists. That aside virtually all bike filters advise against too narrow bars for most cyclists. @@Chader9
I think cyclists use their calf muscles far too little! 🤔
That top tube is a full 2-3" too short
Too many people see what the pros do, and copy it; not what is best for them......Absolute mugs......
'Bike fit mistakes' .. a bike bike fit
This is like listening to your girlfriend/boyfriend. A lot of criticism without any real objective things as to how to actually correct the issue...useless.
He gave clear solutions to all of the problems he listed, cynicism for the sake of it - get a grip
The message is that there is no "one size fits all". That said, corrections are individually specific.
Errrr...maybe you should try listening actively
Yep. Agree completely. Saddle is too high - well how high should it be? What they're saying is you need a bike fit to sort all your problems out - so what's the purpose of this video?
I've told you one thousand times already, you never listen