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Will this Sinkhole Flood Salvage Dodge Viper Start and Run?
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- Опубліковано 24 кві 2022
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We super clean and flush the V10 Engine in our Flood Totaled Dodge Viper and try to spin it over by hand. If things go well, maybe it will start, or maybe it won't.....
Instagram: / samcracc
Email Me: SamcracAuto@gmail.com
Before replacing the starter, first check if you are actually getting power to the starter solenoid. The starter may be okay.
You could always just get the starter tested at your local auto parts store
@@jamesonmalig7271 you can go under it with a screwdriver and touch the contacts and it will spin if it is good
True.
Go from easy to hard so I'd start first at the relay. Listen for the click then the solenoid and test for power with a multimeter. There is a high chance that the alternator is also dead. I've had them fail from simple oil leaks.
Run 12 volts straight to the starter from a battery.
Since this is a flood car, there might be lots of reasons, why is the starter not engaging. The wiring from the START button to the ECU or the starter relay ; the starter relay ; the starter itself ; the ECU.. You should probably try jumping the starter if it's not somehow full of water. It also could be a badly ruster or corroded ground.
this.
Clutch pedal switch could also be the problem if it’s not any of those you listed. If the computer does not see the switch indicate that the pedal is depressed then it might not attempt to crank the engine over
Codes? That will give you a better idea… especially if you can SEE what the buttons doing
Yup I would take jumper cables from a battery direct to the starter. If the starter does not spin then strip it down as it might just need the brushes cleaned up.
Yeah, there's only like 4 grounds on the viper since most of the body is fiberglass. There's two that I know of behind the drivers side fender. I added my own with some 0awg on my 3rd gen.
Also, check the trans for water. The vent will let in a good deal of water in a short time
When I was a silly young man, I put my 70 Nova SS in to the bay (salt water). Drained the water/oil and refilled. Ran to operating temp and changed again (2 times). Drove that car for over a year without issue.
Please Sam stop. You have a chance to save a Viper. Do it the right way. Pull the engine and take it apart and clean it. Take apart the the entire front end and do it right. Make lots a content and bring us along on the journey 😄👍
It’s always more fun to watch someone try to start a flood car without pulling engine for tear down. If it was mine I would simply pull everything and rebuild, but like I said it always interesting to see if it start with simple DIY hacks. Keep up the good work Sam!!!
I love seeing beautiful cars like this get saved and back on the road. I wish you luck!!
The evaporust did amazing! Also that cylinder is way worse than what I imagined when we spoke on the phone.
Hi Sam, This was my car. Happy to help fill in any info you need. Still sick about it. Was absolutely immaculate!
I've been in the car business for 30 years. Not seen the whole video but this engine needs a full strip and rebuild to save it. If it does run it's probably going to eat itself and destroy any components that might have lived again. Want you to succeed but all that sand/rust and water internally is a death sentence.
if it needs too be rebuilt anyway who cares??
@@lovellmills7959 Because if you rebuild it straight away, you can reuse most, if not all of the parts after cleaning. If they get damaged from running, like @Andrew Trapnell said, then you need to replace them. It's a matter of how much money you're willing to risk.
@@halofreak1990 it is a modded engine. Has ARP internals. Does not need too be rebuilt.
@@lovellmills7959 u don't get it do you? They are saying with the remaining residual particles still in the engine it will ruin it. What part of modding an engine makes it indestructible? Sand, soot, metal particles will eat away at everything internal. Mods have nothing to do with it.
Lots of marine diesel engines get started after sinking....staying filled with water isn't terrible if you drain/clean/treat the engine before trying to fire it up.
Most likely going to need a new PCM. The computer is in the front left corner of the car and was completely underwater. Would be really surprised if it's not completely corroded inside.
that'll be easy to check, connect a diagnostic
Computer internally is covered with a coating to prevent corrosion
They are water proof and all the connectors have gaskets to keep water away. Can happen but very difficult
@@organiccold I had a similar failure on my Yukon. Got the green goop on two pins and fried the ecu , and it didn’t even go for a swim
Yeah, it's probably fine. Like I said in my other comments, it might have something to do with the immobilizer.
It might a built or REBUILT engine already! Noticed your bearing caps have ARP bolts on them...
Funny how they look right past this comment hah but yes I noticed that myself that’s how my duramax’s were built with arp head studs they may not even. Know what ARP is …. You and I will just leave that alone i so pose
Anyone else shouting "JUST START THE DAMN CAR!" at their screens? Seriously though you did a great job cleaning those internals and I am confident it is going to be ok once you do get some power on the starter.
Just you. Most of us are still waiting for him to drop the oil pan and check the barrings.
I had an engine with water in it like that and one thing i can recommend is that you should crank the engine for a few seconds with the oil filter off to blow out the oil passage from the pump.
A bunch of white sludge came out of mine.
What a let down. Was really looking forward to hearing the engine ticking over.
Hopefully next time Sam.
6000 episodes later ....whoops someone stole the car
ticking, you mean purring
More like knocking.
Next time dont spoil it SMDH
@@justinrodriguez3430 don't read the comments before finishing the video.
Wishing Sam a speedy recovery after the cholera infection from drinking the intake water...
Maybe all the chemicals killed off any microbes in that nasty water 😅
Wee bit of legionella will help fight off the cholera. He should be fine.
Step mom will take care of him.
YOU HAVE DIED OF DYSENTERY 😂
ARP con rod bolt? Most likely That's a Racing built engine good score!
I'm pretty sure it will fire but I also think in the process you will liberate so much crap that something is bound to get caught in the valves and burn them. If you just removed the heads you could really clean it up a lot more and you don't have to remove the block. Good luck, it's a beaut.
Been waiting 2 weeks for this….hope we don’t have to wait 2 more weeks. Dying to know how this turns out
Instead of watching and commenting on other UA-camrs Sam should be turning out more content.
Yeah, this is a bit slow. Not much progress for a whole episode.
Agreed,posting one vid in 2 weeks,no real progress,could have atleast added starter installation and made video longer with some result
Right felt like 2 weeks for something that would of took 1 day max to do
Who knows what he has going on in his personal life or everything he does off camera, maybe the man just doesn’t have time right now.
When it comes to the starter Sam all you have to do is take it apart clean it re-grease it then test it.
Most likely it has sand and other material preventing it from functioning.
Just want to say I really enjoyed the video this is like legit my dream car I've always loved the vipers every time I would play midnight club it would literally be the only car I would drive so just for watching you restore something this amazing you just got a new subscriber and a good like form me because of how much I love these cars cant wait for the next video
Like with salvaging Boats, NEVER drain your engine until you are immediately ready to tackle, start to finish. Boat salvage operators won't raise the boat until they are ready to begin work. Not that I'm an expert, but it takes air to start the oxidation process, so their logic makes sense.
Nope....air increases the oxidation process, but water is H2O....two parts hydrogen, one part oxygen. Drop a bolt in a pan of water and watch what happens.
before changing the starter break the cover on an old relay and use it as the starter relay and close the contacts manually that way you break the system in half, if it tries to crank or cranks the engine bay wiring is good and possibly the starter and the issue is between the button and pcm
I'm confident it will work if you make sure all the dirt inside the components are cleaned as best as possible. Don't make us wait too long for the next video 😄
The video I’ve been waiting for clicked so fast lol
Me too
Only been waiting 2 weeks for this to pop up..
And still no answer. Lol
And then found out nothing
@@pcgrey69 I was disappointed in the end! Lmao
The sand comes from around the hydrant and the water line. When installing both items, they compact everything in the ground with a strain sand and or "concrete" sand (sewer lines). This way they pack ot tightly to make sure to stay in location. Plus, when water leaks happen, alot of the sand is pushed out and you can develop sink holes or sunken ground levels. So more then likely, the sand was all pushed up amd away from the pipes holding both items
It’s a shame the engine wasn’t drained immediately and flushed and filled with new oil within hours of retrieving it. I floated a car across a flooded off ramp. I immediately drained all fluids and refilled. I had no issues with anything in the car. At this point this engine looks like it will never be the same, without a full tear down. The rust on the cylinder walls will surely promote loosing the rings compression and oil control. A hone is a minimum and probably needs to be bored out. The numerous electrical issues will be secondary to the future of this car, but it is truly a shame that the engine was so neglected after the flood. At this point, I would not be looking for short cuts, but would be evaluating whether the engine is salvageable by a full tear down.
But like Sam said if it’s a full tear down there’s nothing lost anyway. The owner just wants Sam to see if it will run before he bothers spending money to ship it.
Sam is doing this for nothing other than content
@@ChrisBeevor0511 Quite a few of the key/expensive internal components might be saveable currently. If it eats itself by being started most will be scrap.
Make sure the clutch pedal switch works, the one that detects if the clutch is depressed to start the engine!
THIS!!! Bypass it with a jumper wire if its faulty for testing…
Could try jumping the starter relay pin 30 to 87 with the relay removed that would also eliminate a bad component before the relay and also find out if the starter is bad. You would also hear the starter relay click even if the starter is bad.
Keep on keeping on, you are on the right track and I can't wait to hear that beast roar back to life. Good luck.
I’ve now rebuilt 4 flood cars and every time i had to replace the fuse panel under the hood. Also the starters were toast every time too, even a few that didn’t have water in the engines.
Found you from Ratarossa visit in UK and a great car channel. Really respect your 'give it a go' approach. All the best from UK..
love these projects! There will always be naysayers... keep up the interesting projects!
enjoying this series so much man, cant wait for that thing to roar into life, fingerz crossed
You will probably get it to spin over. Then you will probably get it to run eventually. Then the same thing may happen as those dudes with the flood GranTurismo....you'll spin a bearing. Then you won't be rebuilding but replacing this motor. But it's interesting to watch you try.
Make sure you’re doing the start sequence correctly. And reset the inertia switch.
Wow Sam, you got me very excited to see the follow-up video of this awesome one here! Loved it all the way 👍😀
I loathe American commuter cars, but my god, Vipers are quite amazing. No one has a simpler formula for fun than the Viper engineers. Great to see this on your channel.
i had a 95 mustang gt that was a flood car i had bought when i was 19, i had bought it for 900 bucks in practically perfect shape 112k miles, just flooded, i beat that thing daily to 183k miles before i sold it. As for electrical issues, they were minor. It really depends on the car, that one had water up to the seat cushions.
You seem pretty confident so I'm with you on this one-- let's hope a starter helps!
Done a bit of deep water driving, a good starting point for a water fill is oil pressure switch out and make an air line fitting that will replace the switch and fit an old long air line to it remove the dip stick and filler cap and cover with a rag and next blast it for a few minutes. Next fill the air line with oil and drop the pressure down to 30-40 psi stand back and blast away again and you should be ok to drain, replace the filter and refill with cheap and run for 10-15 minutes to get it upto temperature. If it all goes well then it is drain and fill with good new oil and a one more filter, good luck.
LMAO. Sam you kill me sometimes.
Prev viper vid: Complains about cost of rust cleaner ($10-15 or something)
This vid: "Totally forgot to check the fuse box!...........so we overnighted all new relays" ($$$$$$)
I'm pretty sure the relays cost about as much as the Rust Stuff. $30 for the rust stuff and I got 2 packs of relays on Amazon
Really like this content, keep up the good work with more practicable cars to have and fix!
Haven't watched SamCrack for a while, but this video is really good.
I would mesure the pistons at TDC to check possible bent rods. Many knuckle heads at the Auction site try to start flood engines without checking the oil. Some even do it in their walkarounds videos.
not to mention hydrolocking. that water doesnt compress and is bad news if you try to crank a water logged engine block
@@spavliskojr that guy from Auto Auction Rebuilds lately been cracking some flood cars without checking the oil or if the air filter is dry. Too cringe.
good point however it seems there is no power to the starter so i don’t think they could’ve even tried to start it
😆 imagine what they do off camera
@@massi628 hopefully in this case, they didn't crank it.
It's your ECU. I had the same same problem. I tried cleaning the engine bay and didn't notice the ECU was present. This was on a Kia Optima. Dealership wanted 2500. Went to ebay using the same number on the ECU and got one for 65.00. Got it and fired up and it worked just fine. Hope to see it crank up...Good Luck
Noone knows how to drag a project on across an uneccesary number of videos better than samcrac. I literally just fast-forward through 75% of his videos because it's just rambling haha. I just watch the parts where something actually happens.
Sam uses Optimism - it’s super effective. +10 rust inhibitor, -10000 math ability
On a vehicle I was working on once I checked to see if the spark plugs were getting power and they weren’t turned out that it was a straight shot from the pcm to the spark plugs on that vehicle and that lead me to believe the pcm was bad. Not sure how it works on a viper but would be worth figuring out if it’s similar to narrow down if it is the pcm or not.
UK but I've tooled on one that was poor start, clutch pedal bushing was worn and you had to kick the clutch a bit to the right to get it all the way to the floor if I remember. with the flooding I'd be looking at the clutch switch for the no start. can be jumped for testing purposes though
Diesel used to be used to clean internal engines. Drove the engine hot, emptied out the oil and filled up with diesel and some oil, then the engine started and had to go idle for a couple of minutes.
@Samcrac
Many people will not see it or tell you they enjoy it a lot.
But i see you are uploading video's in 4K30 and it means a lot, it's just that extra to make me come back :)
You better give your wonderful step mom the first drive. She is such a sweet lady, giving us all pleasure when she is around. A true inspiration to us all.
I am so intrigued with this process! Great thought process Sam.! 👍🏾 😁
When motor was full of water and oil on top everything was fine. Need oxygen in there for sure to rust. Common in hurricane damage boats also. Keep it full of water and oil until ready to do something about it.
Darn it Sam! Just spent my lunch break in the Florida heat so I could watch this with no interruptions to hear this bad boy at least crank!!
You got this cuz, get this SOB howling!
Just waiting for the continuation of this series. Nice video. 👍
Today at Samcrac. How many times can we use the same click bait 😄😄
i look forward to seeing this thing run. Can't wait for the next video
Also, try pushing the unlock button on the remote. If the immobilizer is engaged, it won't let you crank it. Other issue may be the clutch switch
I hope he reads your comment. My uncle has had 3 Vipers that he rebuilt and countless other ones he helped work on and what you said I remember him talking about for a car the guy had spent over 15k trying to get th car to work and nobody could figure it out. Then my uncle came in and was able diagnose the issue, which was this issue with the immobilizer. It had a couple other issues because the auto part mechanics had done some cutting, slicing, and rewiring that didn't need to be done, but had they been more familiar or at least qualified, they would have figured it out. In fact one shop was called 'Mopar Magicians' but I'm thinking they only magic they did was making that guys money disappear.
Sam, excellent DIY, hurry with the next episode, we gotta see it run.
not sure if vipers or have it, but maybe an inertia switch got tripped when hitting the hydrant?
No inertia switch on this one!
Sam one of these days you need to pull a "ChrisFix" style clean up.
We want that satisfying dirty to clean adventure, this project is a bit lacking on that but still a good journey.
the ECM is pretty sealed for water not water under pressure but regular water intrusion is normally prevented with the seals on the plugs and the glue that holds the cover to the heat sink
These are interesting videos with some mystery if it's going to run or not, much better than the quick flip ones I've seen on YT before! ☺️
You got balls Samcrac. Have at it. This is an easier fix than that Ferrari
"... and this is the start of how Sam developed his diagnostic palate. Like the Car Wizard." 🧙♂
13:11 nice to see that your snake camera came back from one month in the future to take a video for you
U should way over fill the the oil and let sit for a day to coat the bearings then drain some out to get it to level
Wait, does the Viper come from the factory with ARP bolts or has the engine had work done to it?
Thats what i was seeing!!
Saw them, what was up with that?
Ok I wasn’t the only one to see that
Diagnose the starter. Make sure you got power to the starter. You gotta get that thing to crank. Also, make sure if that thing has a clutch pedal position sensor.. that that is working properly as well
Good steel takes a "little" time to rust. Cast is a more porous. But creates a "skin" ..from going deeper. Steel, once it takes hold, it penetrates deep!
Time was your friend.
Check the clutch safety switch- you can always just put a jumper wire across the wires going into it to bypass it. I bet it was under water and could have been damaged.
Check to see if the check engine light is coming on when in position 2: that will indicate that the ECU is at least somewhat functional
The starter is rusty and full of water. Good job Sam. Never seen Sage working so fast haha
I totally understand your caution and worries. you are past the "danger zone" for most of the engine internals. now the biggest danger is not getting it turned enough. the engine needs to be run to keep any residual water from oxidizing inside of the engine. you are likely gonna need new bearings in the alternator and starter and maybe a few other bits and pieces but most important is to hook up a momentary switch to your starter and get it turning. starters are cheap but the miracle that your bearings / rings aren't frozen means that you got the water out in a timely manner. It will run, even if you have to put an aftermarket ecu in.
So as we’re watching this now he’s had this video for at least a year lol
most PCM,s can be tested ,ive popped the cover on some and if you dont see any burnt diods etc, the real deal on electrics is let em dry out, the starter may be okay, you have take it apart all the way, but if some stuff stays under water the game is over
I haven’t finished the whole video yet but I would avoid tearing the engine apart at all cost. I had a TwinTurbo Viper I traded a guy a Polaris I had but he had blown up the motor and it was an absolute nightmare to find new gaskets. It took me months and months to find any gaskets. When I would call places they would just laugh I ended up using OEM gaskets and found the one set in the entire United States that dodge had. Just be aware to this issue if you do tear the engine down, find those parts first and I pray you don’t have the troubles I did. The second I fixed that car I immediately sold it I was so irritated A complete nightmare like over six months of waiting just for head gaskets to finally pop up I wouldn’t wish that upon my worst enemy. Best of luck
This guy is extremely smart with cars. I wonder he learned to work on them
Go ahead Sam, clean everything again and again till you feel confident, by sure it will run smoothly. What about the gearbox?
another trick is spraying in PB Blaster in the spark plug holes in an engine thats just sat long time not cranked.. Drain everything fresh oil filter in..repeat a few times..good then!
I am hopeful that you can get it to start, and that it is not damaged internally. Good Luck.
It’s awesome to get out running with diy methods
Sam, I'm glad I didn't have a chance to bet on those 10 cylinders moving at all. I'd have lost. Good job. Good luck going forward.
6:42 that's an ARP (aftermarket) rod cap bolt. there may be some upgrades in that engine
Those were ARP bolts on the crankshaft. The engine’s been rebuilt before, possibly modified.
Hi Sam, If at all possible could you please post some more progress videos on your projects I am sure I am not the only one who would watch instead of waiting for A result.. if anyone else agrees like this comment. Thanks for your great content 👍🏻 👍🏻
I would love to pack up the Hash Pipe with Rocky and pass it back and forth with Samschmokescracs and get all schmoked up.
After seeing all the progress, even more confident it will run no problem. Am I confident it will have great compression on every cylinder with only 5-10% deviation? Eh I'd go with 70/30 odds on that.
After manually cranking it around, replace the alternator and fuses, and start it up.
I would look at the clutch since you have to compress it in order to start the engine and its broken it may not be sending the signal needed to start it.
One your best new car projects for sure I'm hooked on this viper
I would find some way to turn it over with an electric drill, with the plugs out, just let the motor crank, will bring up oild pressure and get it circulating..
So funny how cars drive themself on this farm haha.
Just take a snap look at the background people.
Just take all plugs out fill with oil leave plugs out and cover plug holes with towels then turn engine over with starter let the rings clean the walls then oil change again
It seems like you’re doing a very good job Sam. It will be fine. 👍
Sam
What about the two post lifts ? 😂
Nothing a pressure washer can't do real quick 🤣