This needs to go viral, great video! Wow you can really see the difference with the General Finishes. I'm completely refinishing a Ethan Allen dining room table, this is what I'll use. Thanks!!!
I’m a professional antique restorer and I’ve seen my share of damage to finishes . The sun is really hard on every finish eventually ,so is heat and long term friction . I really like the General finishes and sanding sealers and find that they outperform anything from Minwax ,but that’s just me . I get to see finishes from hundreds of years ago and I have to say that shellac is by far the the most beautiful and durable finish I’ve seen . I’ve seen finishes from the William and Mary era that looked really good with a little wax...I wonder how long these plastic finishes will last. Someone should do a video comparing modern and antique finishes. Thanks for the video.
I’m sure the oil finishes are stronger but I’m more than happy with the water based finishes! I spray everything so I much prefer the less harsh water products
Great video comparison! I would in a next video please leave the glass of ice water on the counter until it melts into a puddle 🤣 that’s what usually happens to me I forget about it until all the ice melts
Both look great. I’m always wanting to find clear stain that doesn’t change the color of the natural wood. Matte does a little better then satin but still darkens a shade or 2
General Finishes products might be quite expensive, but they are FAR easier to apply than Minwax or Varathane products. GF simply lays down better. No brush strokes, no bubbles. As a wood hobbyist, I know my finishing skills aren’t great, but the frustration of using cheap finishes that are hard to apply correctly just isn’t worth my time. I just tried GF products for the first time, and I’m never going back.
I finally figured out a system to use the Varathane Polyurethane and get it to go on ok. I spill some of it on a clean scrap board and then I wipe some of it up with a twelve dollar velvet cloth that has foam in the middle of it that I got at the woodworking supply store. And then I deposit a rather thin layer onto the wood evenly in one sweeping motion without stopping. Maybe a little thicker on the first coat, but if it is too thick then it evaporates to leave orange-peel surface, but that doesn't matter too much on the first coats since you have to sand afterwards anyway. And with each layer I let it dry and then sand the next day with ever lighter grades of sandpaper, in spite of what they say about always using 320 grit. Go as far as 500 grit folded in thirds and getting every dip of the wood with it. Then the final coat wiped on real thin, but if there are any cloudy areas, then another and another thin layer till it's shiny.
I have a pair of binoculars with some kind of rubbery plastic covers that fit over the lenses. And I have small fan that has 4 rubber feet on the bottom. These ruuber things are supposed to prtect the lenses and tabletops from scratches. But both of these items leave marks on my breakfast nook table that I finished with Minwax Polycrylic. I also tried furniture wax to solve the problem. That helps only a little as it wears off after a few wipes when I wash the top with a damp dish cloth. My wife set a hot steel pizza pan fresh out of the toaster oven...for about two seconds. It melted a spot through the Polycrylic. I've learned not to ever put anything but hard cool dishes or pans, elbows and junk mail on my table. I occasionally have to polish out the binocular and rubber feet rings. It has been about two and a half years and soft rubbery things still stick and have to be moved within an hour. Can you tell me what I should use to refinish my relatively new table?
Great testing. The only thing I'd be curious to see is a glass of ice water for longer than 15 minutes. That's one thing I could see leaving on there for an hour. Awesome video, though. Nice job!
Great comparison. I am looking to spray sheets of birch ply to do a vintage travel trailer I am looking for that nice color that oil base finish go nice and warm. They both look like a great option, it’s all about drying time the longer it’s wet the longer you get dust, bugs and other things sticking to it , having said that what one would be better sprayed on large 8x4 sheets of birch plywood thanks.
What about flexibility? I've been taught that oil-based poly will flex more as the wood expands and contracts with changing of weather. I live in PA where we get all 4 seasons. Big shifts in weather throughout the year. From below freezing to 100°+ (fahrenheit) some years. I was curious to see how the oil-modified minwax poly held up in that department. Because if it does well there.
I live in Wisconsin and I have the oil modified on several items and they hold up fine. One of them being counter height chairs that get sit in and feet on the foot rest.
@@TwoMooseDesign Ahh like a barstool? That's good to know. I think I'm going to go with minwax oil-modified as my go to. It really seems to deliver the best of both worlds.
Do you sand between coats? I bought the oil modified for flooring not realizing there was a general purpose version of the same composition and brand that’s only difference I can tell is doesn’t require sanding in between. It’s quite confusing, any insight would be great.
Have you ever tried rolling on the Minwax oil modified water based poly? Most water based poly can be rolled on, but I’ve read some comments from wood floor finishers that they wouldn’t roll on oil modified water based poly but offer no explanation as to why. Any thoughts?
Hey! I have not personally, the only issue I could foresee is the finish would start to dry before it could fully level out smooth or possibly have air bubbles in the finish.
Thanks for the video. I've used Enuro Var but only as a clear coat over bare wood. Does the new Enduro Var II allow you to spray it over a Oil based Stain... or have you tried it and was there any issues.
You mentioned that you spray oil based poly, do you have any videos with suggestions for setup. I’ve got fourteen 30”x48” new unfinished butcher block table tops to finish and would like to spray. Thanks for your videos.
How are you getting rid of the dust in between coats? Wiping down with Mineral Spirits or what? I think I'm going with oil based poly for increased durability for shelving I might end up abusing with heavy and metal stuff.
Both have ambering qualities so yes. I would use a regular water based poly to avoid yellowing. Like varathane water based poly or general finishes high performance poly. The most easy to get would be at a big box store. Make sure it’s regular water based poly and it will keep it looking natural and not yellow. Oil based and oil modified will yellow
Oil based is always going to be more durable than any water based or oil modified as it’s pretty much water based. But the color on the piece is going to be far more yellow/orange. And it takes forever to dry between coats. Either one will be fine depends on the application
@@TwoMooseDesign thanks. I had a 1.4 and it wouldn’t put out any material. I bought a new gun with a 1.4 and a 2.2 and tried with the 2.2, it put out way too much. I’ll try with the 1.4 on this gun. The other gun was a harbor freight purple gun 🤦♂️
Hi ! How is the ambering properties of minwax compared to straight oil product ? . We really want the ambering properties but the shop smells terrible . We can't leave too many windows open because it's cold. Any issues applying compared to transition oil ? Thanks !
Regular oil based does look slightly better but the average person that doesn’t have finish knowledge would not be able to tell and the dry time is way faster
@@TwoMooseDesign hi thank you so much for the fast reply. Read a few reviews of the finishing peeling off like serane wrap and cure time between coats to be different the can. Any thoughts ? If you have used gallons of this stuff. I assume it's great. Interesting that minwax tech support says they don't support spraying of any kind. Thank you. 😊
@@TwoMooseDesign I tried that before but it didn't work. you reminded me maybe I should try 2-3 coats before giving up. Golden pecan seems to be close . But pine doesn't seem to accept it too well. Seems like pine is a shitty wood to deal with lol. You channel looks cool.
DONT USE WATER BASE POLY!! It leaves white dingleberries when staining a large product bc it dries in the brush...AND IT DRIES WHITE! Not clear like oil based. White puddles, dingleberries and runs! WHITE! Scrape with knife then restain where you had to scrape. IT SUCKS! DON'T PURCHASE WATER BASED IF YOU LOVE YOUR WOOD PIECE! AND DON'T USE TRIPLE THICK BC IT DOESN'T COVER IN ONE COAT WITHOUT LEAVING A SANDY GRITTY FINISH. Just trying to save you a lot of time and aggravation. Bye bye Minwax! No more for you.
Wow you don’t have to yell. I spray over 8 gallons a week of water based products and don’t have issues. 🤷🏼♂️ I dint like the one coat or triple thick either
@@TwoMooseDesign lolol. Sorry about the shout. It really irritates me to no end when a product like Minwax would put out a product to loyal users and put the screws to us. Water base poly is a "white" nightmare! I've used it several times hoping for a change to no avail. Crap!
@@dannybouy7948 White puddles, runs, and small white circles (dingleberries?) points to user error. Drying in the brush is yet another clue. You are overloading the brush and laying it on way too thick. The directions for all such products say as much.
I know you said this was kind of an uneventful video but it's exactly what I was looking for, thank you!!
Glad it was helpful!
This needs to go viral, great video!
Wow you can really see the difference with the General Finishes. I'm completely refinishing a Ethan Allen dining room table, this is what I'll use. Thanks!!!
Thanks for watching!!
I just laid the minwax oil modified on my floors and I'm so glad I did plus it is easy to use! Thanks for the video 😊
Thats awesome! Im sure your floors look beautiful! Glad the video helped thanks for checking it out! 😁😁
I’ve been considering “pulling the trigger” on GF soon but hesitated due to price. Now I’m glad I did. Thanks for doing this.
Thanks for checking it out! Definitely worth trying! Arm r seal is great and easy to use too by general finishes.
I’m a professional antique restorer and I’ve seen my share of damage to finishes . The sun is really hard on every finish eventually ,so is heat and long term friction . I really like the General finishes and sanding sealers and find that they outperform anything from Minwax ,but that’s just me .
I get to see finishes from hundreds of years ago and I have to say that shellac is by far the the most beautiful and durable finish I’ve seen . I’ve seen finishes from the William and Mary era that looked really good with a little wax...I wonder how long these plastic finishes will last. Someone should do a video comparing modern and antique finishes. Thanks for the video.
Ohhh yeah that would be a cool video! I wish I had that type of finish knowledge to compare them lol
until alcohol is spilled. Shellac is cut with alcohol and will soften the finish
I’ve always heard that water-based finishes are not as durable as oil-based finishes, but these are quite durable!
I’m sure the oil finishes are stronger but I’m more than happy with the water based finishes! I spray everything so I much prefer the less harsh water products
Also the water based finishes won't yellow like the oil based
Great video comparison! I would in a next video please leave the glass of ice water on the counter until it melts into a puddle 🤣 that’s what usually happens to me I forget about it until all the ice melts
😂😂
Thanks for this. Id also like to see the difference between water based POLYCYCLIC and water based POLYURETHANE.
Thanks! And good idea!
They are the same. Polycrylic is branding.
Impressive! I'm using the general finishes high performance gloss for a ambrosia maple slab/future desk. Glad I made the right choice!
Both look great. I’m always wanting to find clear stain that doesn’t change the color of the natural wood. Matte does a little better then satin but still darkens a shade or 2
General Finishes products might be quite expensive, but they are FAR easier to apply than Minwax or Varathane products. GF simply lays down better. No brush strokes, no bubbles. As a wood hobbyist, I know my finishing skills aren’t great, but the frustration of using cheap finishes that are hard to apply correctly just isn’t worth my time. I just tried GF products for the first time, and I’m never going back.
It’s pretty much the only top coat I use
I finally figured out a system to use the Varathane Polyurethane and get it to go on ok. I spill some of it on a clean scrap board and then I wipe some of it up with a twelve dollar velvet cloth that has foam in the middle of it that I got at the woodworking supply store. And then I deposit a rather thin layer onto the wood evenly in one sweeping motion without stopping. Maybe a little thicker on the first coat, but if it is too thick then it evaporates to leave orange-peel surface, but that doesn't matter too much on the first coats since you have to sand afterwards anyway.
And with each layer I let it dry and then sand the next day with ever lighter grades of sandpaper, in spite of what they say about always using 320 grit. Go as far as 500 grit folded in thirds and getting every dip of the wood with it. Then the final coat wiped on real thin, but if there are any cloudy areas, then another and another thin layer till it's shiny.
I agree 100% worth the extra cost
Really informative video! Great job guys
Thanks! 😁
I have a pair of binoculars with some kind of rubbery plastic covers that fit over the lenses. And I have small fan that has 4 rubber feet on the bottom. These ruuber things are supposed to prtect the lenses and tabletops from scratches. But both of these items leave marks on my breakfast nook table that I finished with Minwax Polycrylic. I also tried furniture wax to solve the problem. That helps only a little as it wears off after a few wipes when I wash the top with a damp dish cloth. My wife set a hot steel pizza pan fresh out of the toaster oven...for about two seconds. It melted a spot through the Polycrylic. I've learned not to ever put anything but hard cool dishes or pans, elbows and junk mail on my table. I occasionally have to polish out the binocular and rubber feet rings. It has been about two and a half years and soft rubbery things still stick and have to be moved within an hour. Can you tell me what I should use to refinish my relatively new table?
Thanks for all the great work you put into this! Hope your channel does well!
Great testing. The only thing I'd be curious to see is a glass of ice water for longer than 15 minutes. That's one thing I could see leaving on there for an hour. Awesome video, though. Nice job!
I plan to do a more updated version soon. This is pretty old and GF doesn’t even make that one anymore. I’ll leave it on there over night!
GREAT idea! I love the look of wax
Thanks so much for doing this.
Thanks for watching
Let it be known that okietimber was your 800th subscriber 😆👊🏽
You probably were! thanks much appreciated! ☺️
Thanks! This was great !!
FYI minwax is 45 now if you need. Picked up some with your link 😊
thanks! good call! just ordered 4 gallons 😂 it pops upto $60 sometimes so you have to watch lol
@@TwoMooseDesign😳 😲 you use alot of it. Good good good. Keep busy 👍👌👊
Great comparison. I am looking to spray sheets of birch ply to do a vintage travel trailer I am looking for that nice color that oil base finish go nice and warm. They both look like a great option, it’s all about drying time the longer it’s wet the longer you get dust, bugs and other things sticking to it , having said that what one would be better sprayed on large 8x4 sheets of birch plywood thanks.
Can I apply a coat on a weathers table I night without sanding it down?
What a great demo. What would you use on pine stained interior windows?
I wouldn’t use either of these products find and exterior poly so it holds up to the sun
Nice comparison
Thanks 🙏🏼
What about flexibility? I've been taught that oil-based poly will flex more as the wood expands and contracts with changing of weather. I live in PA where we get all 4 seasons. Big shifts in weather throughout the year. From below freezing to 100°+ (fahrenheit) some years. I was curious to see how the oil-modified minwax poly held up in that department. Because if it does well there.
I live in Wisconsin and I have the oil modified on several items and they hold up fine. One of them being counter height chairs that get sit in and feet on the foot rest.
@@TwoMooseDesign Ahh like a barstool? That's good to know. I think I'm going to go with minwax oil-modified as my go to. It really seems to deliver the best of both worlds.
Do you sand between coats? I bought the oil modified for flooring not realizing there was a general purpose version of the same composition and brand that’s only difference I can tell is doesn’t require sanding in between. It’s quite confusing, any insight would be great.
I like a more cloudy finish
Good to know!
@@TwoMooseDesign lol you're welcome
Have you ever tried rolling on the Minwax oil modified water based poly? Most water based poly can be rolled on, but I’ve read some comments from wood floor finishers that they wouldn’t roll on oil modified water based poly but offer no explanation as to why. Any thoughts?
Hey! I have not personally, the only issue I could foresee is the finish would start to dry before it could fully level out smooth or possibly have air bubbles in the finish.
Excellent, thank you!
Informative!!! What do you reckon about the water based poly matte finish? Is it less durable? Thanks!
I think its a great finish! I use them both all the time. 👌🏼
Man when you drug that brick across there I started getting very uncomfortable.
😆😆 me too I really wanted to mess them up! I felt like I did nothing lol I should of beat the hell out of them for fun 🤷🏼♂️
Does anyone know how Old Masters compares to General Finishes?
Was it intentional that the GF and minwax sides were swapped? (GF can in front of minwax example, vice versa)
What about a birch butcher block countertop for the sink countertop. Water resistance properties? Thank you
Do you know how would the General Finish High Performance compares to this ones?
That is a beautiful piece of wood. Is that unstained walnut?
Yes! Just natural walnut with the top coats applied
@@TwoMooseDesign Thank you!
Thanks
THANK YOU
Thanks for the video. I've used Enuro Var but only as a clear coat over bare wood. Does the new Enduro Var II allow you to spray it over a Oil based Stain... or have you tried it and was there any issues.
You can just make sure the oil stain has a few days to dry. Minimum one full day
Are those products ok for stairs steps ?
Thanks for your video !
Yep! The minwax is actually made for flooring. You can find that one at Walmart I believe
@@TwoMooseDesign thank you !
Any thoughts on ACE Water based poly?
I’m not sure I haven’t tried that! If it’s not super cheap it’s probably fine, buy a quart and test it out! I’d just avoid the super cheap brands
Try a hot mug of coffee,especially one with a wet bottom.
good idea!
The Enduro var 2 says 2 hours dry time now
I gotta try that out 🙌🏼
You mentioned that you spray oil based poly, do you have any videos with suggestions for setup. I’ve got fourteen 30”x48” new unfinished butcher block table tops to finish and would like to spray.
Thanks for your videos.
He said in a comment above somewhere that he preferred to spray the water based finishes and not oil
How are you getting rid of the dust in between coats? Wiping down with Mineral Spirits or what? I think I'm going with oil based poly for increased durability for shelving I might end up abusing with heavy and metal stuff.
Oil based is definitely most durable and I just use a damp cloth or pick up a box of tack cloths those work really well too
@@TwoMooseDesign Tack cloth was the other thing I had in mind. Thanks for the super prompt reply!
@@pillingthemsoftly4738 you bet! I just get a box off Amazon and they last a while 👊🏼
will either of these products turn yellow on natural pecan cabinets?
Both have ambering qualities so yes. I would use a regular water based poly to avoid yellowing. Like varathane water based poly or general finishes high performance poly. The most easy to get would be at a big box store. Make sure it’s regular water based poly and it will keep it looking natural and not yellow. Oil based and oil modified will yellow
@@TwoMooseDesign my painters refused to use water base on my kitchen cabinets....
@@donnanichols4202 okay 👍🏼 then ask them what they recommend 🤷🏼♂️
I will not pay $100 for the similarity nor The time. I bought Behr water Base and it is Great for $40.
interesting video. which would you recommend using on kitchen cabinets?
Depends on a lot of factors 🤷🏼♂️either one would be just fine
What do you that about the oil-modified minwax vs varathane oil based? (or a different oil based poly)
Oil based is always going to be more durable than any water based or oil modified as it’s pretty much water based. But the color on the piece is going to be far more yellow/orange. And it takes forever to dry between coats. Either one will be fine depends on the application
@@TwoMooseDesign thank you!
Do you thin the minwax for spraying?
I personally do not. It’s already pretty thin. You could maybe thin it a little bit
Just bought a gallon of the minwax an hvlp gun. Do you thin at all for spraying, and what size tip do you use.
I do not thin any poly only paints. 1.1 or 1.3 for poly and lacquer. Im pretty sure 1.3 is standard on most guns
@@TwoMooseDesign thanks. I had a 1.4 and it wouldn’t put out any material. I bought a new gun with a 1.4 and a 2.2 and tried with the 2.2, it put out way too much. I’ll try with the 1.4 on this gun. The other gun was a harbor freight purple gun 🤦♂️
@@WBPulley oh yeah way too big it would probably lay down like crap? The 1.4 might work. 🤷🏼♂️
@@TwoMooseDesign correct! It was crap!
Why is the gallon label for the minwax different from the quart flavor?
This video is old. General finishes doesn’t even have that formal anymore. Minwax just changed the label
Hi ! How is the ambering properties of minwax compared to straight oil product ? . We really want the ambering properties but the shop smells terrible . We can't leave too many windows open because it's cold.
Any issues applying compared to transition oil ?
Thanks !
Regular oil based does look slightly better but the average person that doesn’t have finish knowledge would not be able to tell and the dry time is way faster
@@TwoMooseDesign hi thank you so much for the fast reply. Read a few reviews of the finishing peeling off like serane wrap and cure time between coats to be different the can. Any thoughts ? If you have used gallons of this stuff. I assume it's great. Interesting that minwax tech support says they don't support spraying of any kind.
Thank you. 😊
@@shahsmerdis I haven’t had any issues and I’ve sprayed many gallons 🤷🏼♂️
@@shahsmerdis maybe buy a quart first to sample just to make sure you like it
@@TwoMooseDesign that is what I was thinking and that is what I'ma do ! Thank you. !
That spray looks awesome. And clarity looks great.
Hi! Can I use the minwax oil modified finish for painted laminate top? Hope to hear your advice thank you!!!🙏
I’m not exactly sure what your referring too but both of these products yellow paint so it may not be a good option.
Are you sure they're water-based? Those look like oil
👍🏻💯
When would you use one vs the other ? The budget of the project ?
Yep and if it was going on stained wood I’d probably just go with the cheaper of the two as well.
@@TwoMooseDesign cool! Thanks. Do you have a preferred staining method ?
Trying to mimic golden aged pine look. So hard :(.
Subscribed btw :)
@@shahsmerdis have you tried an amber shellac? It might give you the color your looking for
@@TwoMooseDesign I tried that before but it didn't work. you reminded me maybe I should try 2-3 coats before giving up.
Golden pecan seems to be close . But pine doesn't seem to accept it too well. Seems like pine is a shitty wood to deal with lol.
You channel looks cool.
@@shahsmerdis try using a pre stain conditioner on soft wood first before staining and it helps a lot
And today we are going to sand between coats with this 0 grit brick 🤣🤣
😆😆
That’s not coffee son. That’s milk.
Pitch black kinda guy?
The expensive vs the cheap you wouldn’t be able to tell the difference
Just use osmo polyx, superior finish to all polyurethane garbage
I’ll give it a try 👍🏼
How much they pay you for this gibberish.L.M.A.O
I didn’t get paid anything nor said to buy either finish. Thanks for watching
DONT USE WATER BASE POLY!! It leaves white dingleberries when staining a large product bc it dries in the brush...AND IT DRIES WHITE! Not clear like oil based. White puddles, dingleberries and runs! WHITE! Scrape with knife then restain where you had to scrape. IT SUCKS! DON'T PURCHASE WATER BASED IF YOU LOVE YOUR WOOD PIECE! AND DON'T USE TRIPLE THICK BC IT DOESN'T COVER IN ONE COAT WITHOUT LEAVING A SANDY GRITTY FINISH. Just trying to save you a lot of time and aggravation. Bye bye Minwax! No more for you.
Wow you don’t have to yell. I spray over 8 gallons a week of water based products and don’t have issues. 🤷🏼♂️ I dint like the one coat or triple thick either
@@TwoMooseDesign lolol. Sorry about the shout. It really irritates me to no end when a product like Minwax would put out a product to loyal users and put the screws to us. Water base poly is a "white" nightmare! I've used it several times hoping for a change to no avail. Crap!
@@dannybouy7948 try genral finsihes high performace poly. I use it by the pail, it works great and isnt so milky
@@TwoMooseDesign 👍
@@dannybouy7948 White puddles, runs, and small white circles (dingleberries?) points to user error. Drying in the brush is yet another clue. You are overloading the brush and laying it on way too thick. The directions for all such products say as much.