Refleks diesel heater/stove plan | Dissolving polystyrene 'lost core'. Lifeboat Conversion Ep61 [4K]
Вставка
- Опубліковано 19 лис 2022
- For merch, and to support my videos and help them grow in scope and quality here: www.alexhibbert.com/aho
Alex's new channel, Arguably: / @arguably-alexhibbert5085
EPISODE 61
As you'll see, my initial plan to do all the H cowl fibre glass work didn't happen this week, due to the shocking surprise of wet weather during an English autumn day. Instead I decided to clear out the polystyrene from the cowl, and then make a start on the recessed platform for the Refleks heater / stove.
Products mentioned:
15 litre PE diesel tank (vertical mount)
Delphi-type fuel filter and water separator
Refleks 62MK stove
Acetone solvent and expanded polystyrene
Model: NME A/S (Husnes, Norway) 7.5m TELB
Engine: Bukh DV48 turbo diesel
Feel free to ask any questions in the comments!
___
Alex's new channel, Arguably: / @arguably-alexhibbert5085
Find out more about Alex's work at:
/ alexhibbert
/ alexhibbert
www.alexhibbert.com/
His books can be bought here:
UK amzn.to/3ncQkRw
US amzn.to/2LkRs86
Canada amzn.to/2JJuwPJ
Signed www.alexhibbert.com/author
Thanks to vanguardstorage.co.uk/ for warehousing facilities. - Наука та технологія
![Messy one: Corroded engine electrics, 3M Dual Lock & turbo painting. Lifeboat Conversion Ep62 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Mo_KSPh9qS8/mqdefault.jpg)
![Messy one: Corroded engine electrics, 3M Dual Lock & turbo painting. Lifeboat Conversion Ep62 [4K]](/img/tr.png)
![Refleks diesel heater progress and burn testing fibreglass. Lifeboat Conversion Ep68 [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ojGXya3SLHY/mqdefault.jpg)
Another great episode.
Alan looks so warm and dry compared to that awful rainy weather outside
Another brilliant video, just love the way you tell the story.
When laying down tape, tension is key. You want very little slack while you're doing it, you also want a soft but firm thin plastic card to slowly press the tape down as you apply it. Having an extra person to assist for large projects like your will make it easier. The goal is to prevent it from bunching up in the first place, as well as forcing out air while it's being laid down.
I'll have to make a friend.
Good, nice to see it all coming together ...
Installation efforts look very good so far.
Impeccable judgement!
Looks very good.
Test the stove before you finally glass in your "H", I had to add an extra 1m section to my burners flue to lift it clear of the deck to get it to draw properly, i think there was turbulence when it was windy and the flue was just to short when it wasn't.
Ooof. Ok, I'll see how it goes. Was aiming for low profile.
Another good informative video.
Life-affirming stuff eh.
I know the burner is gonna be covered by soot soon, but all the mirror-finish steel looks rather spiffy. Like Dave from EEVblog says, a thing of beauty is a joy forever.
I think, if operated properly, they can stay shiny (on the outside at least).
@@AlexHibbertOriginals the one on Mads’ Obelix boat was always very shiny. (SailLife channel)
The safe, dry and secure unit is in such dramatic contrast to the wild, extremely wet and nearly adventurous location Adam (Red-Edit: ALAN) is in. I thought it was worth mentioning ;) P.S.: I actually own a Pearson 33 Vanguard!
If Alex hears you call Alan “Adam” then you’re excommunicated forthwith. 😂
@@teeanahera8949 Hell yeah my typos will one day get me into jail :D
HEY! That reflex oven gets reeeal hot, red glowing infact, so i would highly recomend more free space around it if you dont wanna burn down your boat. Cool project by the way👍
The plastic moulded diesel tank looks suspiciously like the ones sold with Chinese diesel heaters. They have a dreadful reputation, over time they become brittle and leak along the moulding seams. 🤬
You might be able to rub out or burnish any wrinkles in the foil with a soft / stiff, short haired brush. That's how they do it with gold leafing or brass leafing. Maybe the adhesive needs to still be tacky. You can see videos on here that demonstrate. If the foil is thick, you might use soft wooden dowel.
It's only cosmetic really, but I'll try if I get a moment.
Apply The tape using the Wet Application Method with soapy water
The secret to getting thin foil (fx window tinting) to a flat surface is spraying the surface with water and rinse aid. Lay the sticky side on the rinse aid and then just use a card to wipe the rinse aid from underneath letting the adhesive stick.
It takes training, but practice makes perfect.
Thanks
Also, I believe Adam Savage has some tips about laying foil tape in his videos on making prop swords.
Interesting.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals ua-cam.com/video/4JQ4O1SPHSY/v-deo.htmlm3s
when you're installing a flue pipe, you should make sure it goes up as straight as possible to get the best possible draft also does it have it own air intake tube that can draw air from outside? if not you may have problems with it using up all the oxygen unless you open a window which will lower its efficiency by introducing cold air into the cabin.
Thanks - will keep it as straight as possible. There are vents up the stern end, so the boat doesn't have to be near-sealed.
I also was having that thought. With the engine operating at the same time could create a vacuum or back draft.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Good idea to put an outside air intake for the fire box....greatly increases the efficiency
Hum...
I am curious about using just fiberglass for around the sides of a heater that presumably is going to be running almost around the clock. Might it be wise to stick a stainless steel sheet on stand- offs as a shield?
I'll use a high temp epoxy, and probably a shield too along the sides.
You could actually use the engines coolant to heat the interior ( like cars for ) with a radiator
There will be long periods of time during the expedition where the engine won't be running.
Are you going to add reflective tape around the stove area. Would help keep the heat in. Is it worth adding some baffles (like in a heat sink) to the pipe to help get as much heat out of the fuel as possible.
Probably a more elaborate shield/reflector than that
1:45 👋👍
Very interesting! How much kw heating power does the stove have and is it possible to cook on it too?
Around 2.5kW. And yes, this one has the hot stove top to use as a cooker.
🤙
Do yourself a favor and buy one of those chinese diesel heaters as well. They are 12v dc and would work great as a backup heater.
Worth the piece of mind imo. I have one in my 67 vw bus and it works great.. Parts are easy to source and it is so inexpensive (under $150 USD)
They require quite a lot of ducting, and power hookup too. As a real emergency heat source, I have mini pressure-pump stoves that can handle diesel.
How does that stove you have ignite? Its not electrical just burns diesel like a basic kerosene heater? Interesting.
You use a little splint to start it. Old school.
So it just drips and then burns? Does it have a fuel pump? If it doesnt thats a really simple setup and you will only need the diesel which is powering your engine. Cant wait to see it in the frozen wasteland. Something about surviving in cold climates that really intrigues me..
I might have missed this part, but why isn’t it possible to redirect some of the coolant going to the cooling fins, and send it through a radiator with a fan blowing across it?
Seems like the engine is already generating a lot of heat.
Can do from the hot turbo, but there will be tracts of time when the engine isn't running.
I know gasoline will dissolve foams, how about diesel? I'd hate for a leak to slip into the foam area, and secretly carve out a void during sail. You might want to incorporate a liner here so at the very least you'll have an indicator, and/or consider installing the unit on a metal pan to catch spillage. Cheers.
The foam will all be sealed and covered by fibreglass.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals When you inadvertently leave your pump on for the Diesel supply to your heater or when the regulator fails and or both happen you want a separate tank under the heater to capture the over flowing diesel and then float valve and pump (inside the overflow tank) to pump the diesel back into your supply tank (much like a bilge pump) and recommended by the manufacturer. If not you will never get the smell of diesel out of the inside of the boat without completely starting over...Yikes...!
How often does the stovepipe need to be cleaned on that unit? We used a diesel conversion for the army (US) potbellied stove when I was stationed in Germany and the pipe needed cleaning almost daily lest the stove start spewing smoke into the tent. That model looks leagues more refined though.
Did yours have the catalyst insert in the pipe right outside of the stove? I was a medic back in the 80's and for any diesel stove to be used in patient areas the proper catalyst had to be used in the flue/pipe or it would as you said smoke out into the room. With the catalyst, we only had to shut it down once a week, undo the 3 clamps, pull the catalyst out and pop in a new one and clamp it back down. The old catalyst was wrapped up in the new ones wrapper and disposed of.
@@greylocke100 We absolutely did not have that. That sounds like an excellent thing to have. We had soot that grew on the inside of the pipes like some kind of horrible cotton candy and then we'd clean them out by scooping up gravel and snow in the pipe and shaking it with our hands over the ends before dumping the mess out. At any given time half of us looked like chimney sweeps.
@@Leightr You must have had the old converted stoves that were originally designed for coal/wood with a diesel converter ring. The ones in the MUST were designed to be diesel burners ONLY.
But won't having a hole one the roof kind of diminish Alan's original capsiziness to a large extent?
Will you use some kind of blocker on the flue hole when planning on crossing stormy seas?
Absolutely - there's going to be a closable section near the deck head where the flue exits the boat. The stove won't be run in very stormy seas.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Thanks for that. I'll look forward to see what solution you'll come up for it.
The bow is likely to have a lot of vertical movement when the boat us under way. Will this exceed the measurables for heater function. Just how much movement can you subject the heater to before turbulence in the diesel management causes problems?
When underway, the majority of cabin heat will come from the engine. The insulation is very, very effective once the interior is up to temp. This heater is mainly for when alongside, amongst ice, or cruising sedately.
Thanks for the reply. I am still not happy…if your heat source (engine) is making about 20 HP on cruise, will you have enough waste heat in your coolant header tank to distribute in a meaningful way to heat exchangers within the boat, to give you an ice free environment?? Perhaps expert help required on the waste heat calculations / distribution / radiation …etc…. I have just returned from a visit to the Antarctic. I have a fresh insight on ice lumps being munched by / struggling propellors, and management of heat……just curious…
There are a number of constraints for my set up - especially where to mount a heat exchanger around the engine (around the exhaust outlet, around the cooling system etc) and then how to plumb it so it can be disabled on demand. The boat is exceptionally well insulated, and in moderate cold, barely 1kW of heat is needed to top up the warmth once the interior is up to room temp. I'm not sure if you were in a ship or a yacht, but yachts often have very limited insulation and need a lot of active heating.
I was an eco tourist on a cruise ship. Many trips in zodiacs with outboards choking of sea and glacier ice. Extreme transmission shock waves and to engine mountings.
Might be worth thinking about how your prop can deal with a supply of ice lumps instead of water. Perhaps a cush drive in the prop shaft / transmissions .....a horizontal cage ahead of the prop nozzle.
I put in a Dickinson (Newport) Diesel Heater (works the same as a Refleks) in my boat...works great...very cool looking at the fire burning, clean, no soot, no smell...puts out a ton of heat. Keep all the bits well away from the sides and cabin top and mount it as low as possible. I never leave mine running while away or sleeping...while you might get away with it.. I don't think an un-attended fire is a good idea...Best...SV Aquila....Seattle.
Cheers Greg. Do Dickinsons have a built in heat shield or is the outer steel directly heated by the flame?
@@AlexHibbertOriginals Yes they have a built-in heat shield...and they also recommend additional air space outside of the built-in heat shield along with ceramic tile and cement fiber board on your bulkhead and surrounding walls...I would allow a greater/larger hole where the flu goes through the cabin top then the manufacturer recommends. Even on low my tile gets hot to the touch and the fiberglass at the cabin top gets hot to the touch. I have several thermometers to measure the heat, but I don't like how hot the fiberglass gets. The only info I could get off the internet is that fiberglass burns at 1100 degrees Faren height and I get nervous when it gets to 400 degrees Faren height. I am not sure what the resin burns at in the fiberglass and that (I think is the real issue) . I would allow more clearance then the manufacture advises, and constantly monitor...For me my boat is my baby and my life is worth even more. Reflex works the same...Dickinson is built out of Vancouver British Columbia (Canada) but where you are I would stick with Reflex as they are close to where you are and you can get service...Best...SV Aquila...Seattle.
Thanks Greg. There's limited info online about actual recorded temperatures measured in various places at various flow settings around these sorts of heaters. I think I'll do an episode doing so with my laser temp meter.
I share your caution, but one user I read said even their top plate barely went over 300degC. The exhaust from Alan's engine (so forced combustion exhaust) is only c.550degC at full revs. This is well within the safety spec of glass fibre lagging.
I'll do a test this week with a heat gun on some spare fibreglass and see what happens in close proximity to 450degC forced air.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals So that would be an interesting video...at my cabin top I have gotten to 500 degrees Faren height and my cabin top is 4 feet above the top of the heater. This 500 degrees was on a low setting with two thermo fans on to disperse the heat. I have also tested with my laser thermometer and found it to be inaccurate. 550 degrees centagrade is equal to 1100 degrees Fahrenheit=combustion point of fiberglass.
Is your stove a large one? Mine is the 1.6kW Refleks 66.
Alan is HOT 😎 well will be soon great update 👍👍
I’m really bummed you didn’t change the color and give it a nice nonlifeboat paint job
Options were limited - most colours would offer poor visibility. Orange and yellow are 'official' lifeboat colours. So, lime green??
@@AlexHibbertOriginals LIME GREEN
YES PLEASE
@@AlexHibbertOriginals I think a nice shade of british racing green would be very appreciated by Penguins.
I should know for I am a penguin myself.
@@pasamelasal8805 Those thrills may be lost on polar bears though ^^ Cause that is where he is heading. :D
@@MCallsen And this is how I learned there are no penguin colonies up north. There's so much to learn about our own kind...
Polar bears are lame though. They'd rather see a burgundy vessel.
UA-cam, in their infinite "competence," have failed to give me notifications for the last 2 months of your videos. Have you considered doing simultaneous uploads to other video hosting sites, such as Rumble?
If only I had 25 and 26th hours in the day.
Could probably just taken the cutout and flipped it over instead of building the stove platform from scratch.
I'm glad you saw that as well, had to check to see if I was the only one. There might be a curve there that could cause an issue, but it looks like you would just make all the corners square, and the cut distance the same for the top and side. Presto, save some sturdy fiberglass, and only have to do the sides. Well, perhaps Alex will have another occasion to regain seat space, and can use this trick then.
I just became a lifeboat owner as well, and plan on doing this pretty extensively.
As a "Alan" (proper spelling) i feel you are referring me when you use her name.
A cauldron of gender confusion.
@@AlexHibbertOriginals sorry 20 years in the Navy. All boats/ships are she/her
lay down the tape with soapy water like you would vinyl wrapping
FIRST COMMENT?!?!
ua-cam.com/video/bXzUcqQM8qw/v-deo.html
dude made napalm
You might want to at the very least apply foil between the heater & the wall & or any other surface within 6 inches of the heater I woul put 2 layers at least 6mm apart. Sounds like a useless idea but it really will help prevent heat damage to the adjacent surfaces & it will reflect the heat back to you where you'll most certainly appreciate it
Agreed
@@AlexHibbertOriginals The problem with the adhesive foil is the adhesive...all of them degrade with heat and time and fail...keeping a more then recommended space or clearance between the flue and the cabin top is very important to prevent fire.