Wait just one minute! Sailing's king of OCD is going to put off servicing the heater regulator till IT NEEDS IT! There has been a serious disruption in the FORCE. :) Have fun sailing!!!
I subscribed because of the reflex oven bit. I worked in marine service and have sailed with the ovens in the 80ties 90ties . They have improved a lot when you think of cleaning.. I had my share of cleaning out these. But they are so simple and reliant.
Hi Mads, it's all good so please stop saying you are sorry and let it flow. We are just as anxious as you are to see the progress you'll achieve this summer but we are more patient ;-) Looking forward to the next video (already?), have a great week and take care.
Hey, its never a bad day when you have to leave the DIY to 'go sailing'!!!! Re the seacock at the base of the stairs issue, easy to eliminate the 'break-off' risk by gluing a small block between the hull and the underside of the valve body so it can't be bent more than a mil or so. (put in a bit of a curve to resist other potential movements - think aserta is already onto it), agree re the bend for potential blockage but think about where you can open the hose and lift above the water line and then push through a bit of wire to clear if its too cold to go for a swim. Cheers, BB
Mads,. Consider a plywood or pvc board tabbed in to provide verticle support. A simple cradel would do, but a couple of holes below the valve will allow one to install a tie down strap of some sort to eliminate wear from movement. One inboard of thruhull or two with another at elbow-thruhull joint just as long as it does not interfere with the operation of valve. Looks like horizontal the ball valve can not be closed unless cabin sole is removed unless valve handle is on top. I personally would switch to composting head. But on my boat I still have wet head and plan to install new seacock soon although there is no pump out on lake where I am, I can stut and remove tank for land based cleanout. And if and when I do start large boat project, I plan to switch to composting head. A quick swim with a rubber compression plug inserted in outside of thruhull will allow service without a large amount of bildge cleanup. Maybe a bit exhilarating in the Norwegian waters.
You know ive been watching all these videos and i have never caught your name. What your doing is pretty inspiring. Im trying to find a way to hey my grand dads boat to my home. He won't mind. He's dead.
I wouldn’t worry about the content you always touch on something useful in your videos keep up the good work my friend enjoy the downtime while you have it
No problem, you still get two thumbs up for this video? I was watching another channel, can't remember which one, but they had either a newer Hunter or a Catalina. I remember being super impressed that all the thru-hulls were located at the foot of the companion way stairs in one large sump. I know that you can't physically do that, but having all the thru-hulls in one area I think is a real handy thing! One your never forget to open or close them when leaving the boat. I know a lot of people do not close their seacocks everytime they leave the boat for an afternoon or a quick trip to the beach. But another channel, Wicked Salty lost their new boat water music because a seacock failed while they were ashore! I think it's a good practice to open and close them no matter what each and everytime so if they are all located in one convenient place your probably more likely to do it. Also, I've become acustom to storing my ignition keys in that location so I never start the motor without opening the seacocks first.Possibly you can find a place and route all the lines to keep the seacocks in one place. I've seen some of your wiring jobs and feel confident that you are a genius and given enough time could figure something out! To bad they don't design all boats that way. I think there would be a lot less accidental sinkings! I still look forward to your video every week after all these years! I always learn something! Wish you were here in the states all the time! I'd love to come and work with you!
Suggestions for ‘better’ videos: A- more content with your doggy B- seeing you actually go sailing on board of Obelix C- nothing wrong with your videos . ignore A+B carry on with your awesome videos as usual. Love it! Thanks for taking me aboard every week. It’s pretty awesome to see your progress. Even if there’s only little work to do .
Mads, thank you for your concern about us subscribers, but don´t let that control what you do with your time or refit. If you miss a week, so be it, don´t beat yourself up about it. We love your work and I admire your knowhow. We will wait for videos, even if it takes time. Tack från Sverige!
You could consider a larger Blake’s style skin fitting and seacock, which you then divide by way of a manifold into your raw water feed requirements. Advantages would be that the skin fitting and seacock would be stronger by virtue of being larger diameter and thicker bronze alloy, and you only have one rather than four holes in your hull. Disadvantage is that it would require a bit more pipe work under the cabin sole, but it pays dividends in reducing risk of water ingress. On a different note, you can create an ‘in water’ skin fitting seal by having a prepared, sized wooden bung that you can use in conjunction with butyl tape to seal your skin fitting should you need to do some maintenance on your seacock without the luxury of being able to haul out. Just dive in with a snorkel and wire brush, clean the skin fitting of any growth that might compromise your seal with the wire brush, insert said wooden bung (having wrapped it with some fresh butyl tape first), and firmly seat it. The water pressure acting on the outside of it will keep it in place whilst you work on the seacock. Then don’t forget to remove it when you are ready to go again.
We used the smaller version rubber household loo pumps for that. Selfsealing and very easy to set and remove. You just have to make sure there is no line under Your hull to accidentally break those loose as long as there is no seacock or valve during servicing.
Dudenat or Yes exactly, but it being a more commercial engine room term, I chose not use it in case it caused more confusion that the accuracy warranted.
I've watched every single one of your videos and love your work. I do have to say though, this is the only video I've ever liked and it's simply because it makes me feel very involved in your project. Sadly i don't have any yacht building experience to help but I've got my fingers crossed that i eventually get to one day see a video of Athena sailing on the water
I like the plastic sea cock on side. Make a saddle for it and slip and glue in underneath while it’s parallel to the hull. Makes for a secure device and cleaner area in the compartment. Easy fix
Maybe You'll find some place for the seacock in the engine compartment, somewhere in front of the engine. I could not figure out from your previous vids if there is enough space. BTW, this is my first comment here but I've been following your channel for few years now. Thank you so much for all your great stuff you share with us. You are one of the "factors" that pushed me towards buying my own sailboat which I am the owner since June last year! Thank you!
Thank you for another great video. I would go with the old style metal seacocks, plastic ones (my experience) will break if someone accidentally steps on them.
A video of "A day in the life of Mads and his dog" would be something the hive would like. Maybe something about your work place or the work that you do.
It's so nice to see Yokel (sp?) and Obelix again - I'm perfectly fine with that! I hope you had a great time sailing, and I hope you will share some video with us next week!
About the inlet valve for engine cooling.. use a trudesign valve with indicator, and conect it to the ignition key, so that you can not start the engine with valve closed.
No need to apologize Mads this was an awesome video the way it is and I love that you went sailing. If you are looking for filler content until you have a shed, you could do some tool/product review or some sailing video...maybe some singlehanded tricks. Thanks for another great video :)
Have you investigated Marelon? Maybe they would fit better. I would absolutely not install a seacock without that support collar or a flanged seacock. Another great video!
I think I speak for a lot of us when I say that we would be interested in watching you go sailing every now and then when you have weekends were you can't do much work on Athena. Regardless I for one still enjoy these videos even when you don't make as much noticeable progress. By the way, any updates on the plan for the rudder?
I used a trudesign with collar on only seawater inlet near the engine. Like you my grey water pumps overboard above ther water line but I have no grey water tank as boats much smaller than yours. The galley & heads sink both feed a single self priming diagphram pump that pumps them clear while holding down a button in the galley. Works ok & the less below water thru hulls the better. My loo is a chemical one.
I thoroughly enjoy your work, thanks for posting these vids - I have learnt so much. Regarding the seacocks issue, you could consider spring loading the cover on a hinge so you have to hold it open when opening or closing the seacocks. That way it will always default to a closed position.
Stay with the trudesigns, use the collar, and find a better space for them. Maybe use 1 larger one and branch off that after the strainer. Maybe the engine room will do ?
With regard to seacocks: use 90 degrees elbow before the valve, but as you are on Is it a bit fragile construction, you have to make support under the valve, some fiberglass reinforced plywood, and a pair of powerful buckles.
Your dog and my Ruby look like twins, no really, same color, shape and fur type. I had diesel heaters like that in my apartment in Germany. I wish I had seen this video back then, sadly it was several decades ago. The only drawback i see with using the original type thru hulls is the cost. You could always check and replace when you haul out for bottom paint every couple of years. Love your channel even though I'm out of the boat building for now.
Glassing in some tabs to bolt a safety bracket over the valves might be the easiest option to add a little more piece of mind against someone stepping on them in the rare event the panel is open. I would also do to more things from a user experience and safety standpoint if you don't relocate those through hulls: 1. Paint the compartment a high vis colour. 2. Modify the cover panel with a warning sign on the bottom and a mounting system such that any time the panel is removed, it gets placed up in the way of anyone coming down the stairs with a clear and obvious warning of the hazard. Safety bolts/latches to keep the panel closed if they don't already have some might be a good idea too. It isn't like you'll have this open all that often, so it becomes a risk management issue.
You can always put up some footage of you sailing. It would be great to see some shots of the Danish coastline and we haven't seen any film of your face turning green for ages.
For the seacock/valve under the companionway step you could put a little block or wedge under the valve. That way if someone steps on it there shouldn't be a whole lot of resultant flexing of the elbow.
Hi Mads - a suggestion for you re the existing thruhulls. I suspect you'll find you may need to glass the existing holes over and redrill them - given the overall questionable decisions in the original manufacturing of the boat, you probably will find the core/glass structure wasn't properly epoxied and there might be osmosis. 2nd suggestion re seacock - TruDesign has a 120 degree bend kit for the seacock. From residential/commercial plumbing codes - 90 degrees bend for discharge is a big NO NO. Similar concerns will be true for your toilet discharge.
Hey Madz Fun to watch your vids. I’ve done the same complete refits on two sailboats . Fun but frustrating at times. I’ve hooked up with your friend in Canada and we are going to get together this summer when I go north again on my current sailboat. Come on over and do a passage with me.
As it looks to me you can use the Trudesign valves in the compartment at the companionway, just not at the existing locations of the holes. Laminate the holes shut and drill new ones somewhat closer to the boat centerline. I can recommend the Trudesign valves out of my own experience, they are much easier to operate than traditional ball valves. Also, they are completely frost resistant, so no worries during wintertime your valves will crack and no polluting anti-freeze necessary.
ASAP Supplies in the uk have a good range of threaded stainless and bronze through hulls that can be cut down short and with a stainless ball valve it might be possible to get them short enough
There are always times when things get frustrating but I am sure it will all work out just fine. As for seacocks, difficult one. If using the Trudedesigns then the space under the steps is not the best place given you cannot use the collar. I would certainly be worried about the vulnerability. If they must go there then use the Blakes, they have a great reputation for a reason and as long as you service them then they will be fine and they don't have a 90deg bend so blockages are less likely. Whatever you decide it will be right as you usually find the right solution that works for you. Andy UK
No need for apologizing and I would go for metal seacocks, after all they will last for many years before you need to worry about corrosion. Feel free to take us sailing if there's little work to be done on Athena. :)
Mads, have you considered building a manifold or sea chest (have heard it called both)? 1 through hull connects to a distribution box and all your saltwater needs connect to the box. the benefit is that there is only 1 hole in the boat and you can shut off either a single section or the whole thing from the same spot.
Well I would go with the Blake type seacock they lasted 30 years ...... Or a very different idea. Reshape the hull with a complex fiberglass job so sea cock can lie horizontally, a bit like fitting a sea small chest, you could bump it out too it will have no effect as the turbulence back that far will not mind a bump.....but a Blake seacock is easier. Cheers Warren
I like metal seacocks better than plastic as when metal corrodes at least you can see it. When plastic oxidizes and weakens it usually doesn't give you any visual warning that it's compromised. Overall the life span of both seems to be pretty close as well. But I'm old school and like tapered plug seacocks for the servicability ect
Go with the bronze metal ones but they all have to be wired together with a bonding system that connects to a zinc anode to stop electrolysis. This system should include all metal in the boat, Rudder post, chane plates, propeller shaft (use a copper brush), engine, metal tanks....... Use a wide flat copper strap run the length of the bilge then wire the fitting to the copper strapping. You will see a small tapped hole in most flanges on through hull fittings, it is to help you wire connect to the copper strapping. Copper strapping is used because the electron flow is on the surface of the strapping. Wire will corde over time causing resistance to the surface flow of electrons and stopping the system from working. I am guessing when the boat was built they did not instal a bonding system hence the electrolytes in your through hull fittings.
Flushing with fresh water is all well and fine if you have a water maker or a 1000 gallon water tank. However even with those amenities it is best to have a Y valve so that in the event you come into a situation where fresh water is at a premium for whatever reason you still have the option to use raw water.
If I were in that position I would use fresh water in both and have a Y valve to each as well. The sea water can get to stinking in too many ports. In some like a few in that nation to the north of the US flushing with sea water in their ports can be the same as flushing with sewage. Not that the chemical spews in the US ports are any better mind you. The water makers do not purify many of those chemicals either, especially the petro chemicals. I would never eve run a water maker in a US or Canadian port,,,,ANY of their ports. But the same can be said of too many ports around the globe really.
Use the Blakes. As your old ones had works and lasted for 30 years last time, new ones should work fine for you. Definitely the easiest and cleanest solution. You probably really only needed to replace the old mounting screws with new screws for your old Blakes, unless of course the old Blakes had not been tied into your grounding system for your sacrificial zincs to corrode rather than the old Blakes.
Hey there. I'm new to your channel but thank you for all your videos. I'm about to buy a boat and move aboard with my dog, Oreo. I have a question, when you sail, are you alone? And if so, what are your challenges you face. Almost all sailing channels are couples. I'm worried about being at sea alone but I figure I can do it. Thanks again!
Something to consider is going with the metal ones for under the steps and use the plastic in the other locations. Also can you get 45 degree fittings instead of the 90s if so that would make the possibility of them plugging less
Anyone who has ever restored or rebuilt any sort of car or boat as you are doing knows the doldrums that go with waiting for parts weather tools time and space. It is just part of the process. It is real. No reason to feel bad you are doing what you always do, sharing the facts with us.
Not sure if this is possible, but if you could build up some fiberglass to help support the sea-cock that would eliminate the issue of it breaking if someone stepped on it... or just modify the floor so you can use it in normal mode without the 90 degree bend before the valve. Maybe move it just a little more aft in the boat next to the wall and have the floor jet up a few inches there Like a fake step. Hope that makes sense, I wish I could draw on here... :)
Great to see Obelix and Yökel again (sorry about the spelling). Can't believe I've been following your channel for more than 3 years. With so much good content it doesn't seem nearly so long. I'd love to know if you've considered using your grey water tank to flush the head. I know there are issues around that such as filtering but they are probably not insurmountable and it would potentially be a very eco-friendly solution.
Thank you so much :) and thank you for staying tuned that long! The grey water tank is not for black water (the stuff from the head) :) There will be a separate holding tank for the forward head while the aft head will pump directly overboard.
Yes of course. I meant recycling the grey water to become the input to flush the forward head rather than using highly processed potable water. The blackwater system would remain unchanged, but the total amount of water the boat uses would be reduced very significantly.
The only problem with using gray water or salt water for flushing the heads is the smell. During 16 years aboard our boat I have found the only cure for head smell is to use fresh water for this purpose. Only practical if you have a water maker. In our case when passage making the water-maker produces 160 liters of fresh water per hour while charging batteries (about 500 liters per day) and while in the marina I have dockside water available so we have fresh water flushing toilets. I have retained the salt water systems for "emergencies" like the possibility of the water maker packing it in, (happened once during passage from Bermuda to BVI).
Perhaps the answer is to go fully composting head?! There are a few good reviews of composting heads like the one by Through the Portlight ua-cam.com/video/oghd7Sn74_c/v-deo.html
Noted the are two through hulls by the companion way, use the forward one and let the sea cock run along the axis instead of across that should ensure there won't be any risk of breaking it if the f
safety first MADs ,, right AVA ???? that will be the most important seacock thru hull on the boat , do it right , $$$ cost will not matter ,, don't use a cheap plastic one there ,,, if it fails at sea it may only fail once ,,,, use the bronze fitting then u have one less thing to worry about ,, my 2 CANADIAN cents worth , love your channel ,, most wood listen to you read twas the night before Christmas in the summer ,, no worries ,,,
![Refleks diesel heater progress and burn testing fibreglass. Lifeboat Conversion Ep68 [4K]](/img/n.gif)
You should sand the Reflex stove. Just to be on the safe side.
Haha :D
Hahahahhahahahahhahahaaahhaha!!!
Wow, I've read a lot of comments. So many good and kind people in this community. Fills my heart with joy. Blessings!
Wait just one minute! Sailing's king of OCD is going to put off servicing the heater regulator till IT NEEDS IT!
There has been a serious disruption in the FORCE. :)
Have fun sailing!!!
I subscribed because of the reflex oven bit. I worked in marine service and have sailed with the ovens in the 80ties 90ties . They have improved a lot when you think of cleaning.. I had my share of cleaning out these. But they are so simple and reliant.
You could make a bracket to support the far side of the valve, would remove a lot of load on the 90. You are wonderful, keep up the hard work.
i love the way your not afraid to change the floor plan ...so many micky rig there boat to fit the currant floor plan
Your doing what you can do. No need to apologize. Hope you enjoyed your sailing.
One of the joys of life is that whenever a person needs something to do, there is always something around that can be sanded.
Hi Mads, it's all good so please stop saying you are sorry and let it flow. We are just as anxious as you are to see the progress you'll achieve this summer but we are more patient ;-) Looking forward to the next video (already?), have a great week and take care.
If your going sailing you better bring us along... Just sayin!!
We will all be anticipating a sailing video
Hey, its never a bad day when you have to leave the DIY to 'go sailing'!!!!
Re the seacock at the base of the stairs issue, easy to eliminate the 'break-off' risk by gluing a small block between the hull and the underside of the valve body so it can't be bent more than a mil or so. (put in a bit of a curve to resist other potential movements - think aserta is already onto it), agree re the bend for potential blockage but think about where you can open the hose and lift above the water line and then push through a bit of wire to clear if its too cold to go for a swim. Cheers, BB
Mads,. Consider a plywood or pvc board tabbed in to provide verticle support. A simple cradel would do, but a couple of holes below the valve will allow one to install a tie down strap of some sort to eliminate wear from movement. One inboard of thruhull or two with another at elbow-thruhull joint just as long as it does not interfere with the operation of valve.
Looks like horizontal the ball valve can not be closed unless cabin sole is removed unless valve handle is on top.
I personally would switch to composting head. But on my boat I still have wet head and plan to install new seacock soon although there is no pump out on lake where I am, I can stut and remove tank for land based cleanout. And if and when I do start large boat project, I plan to switch to composting head.
A quick swim with a rubber compression plug inserted in outside of thruhull will allow service without a large amount of bildge cleanup. Maybe a bit exhilarating in the Norwegian waters.
Better to have a video of Mads talking for 10-20 minutes than no video at all that weekend. Don't apologize! Looking forward to the projects!
Learning the Lines I second that!
You know ive been watching all these videos and i have never caught your name. What your doing is pretty inspiring. Im trying to find a way to hey my grand dads boat to my home. He won't mind. He's dead.
We want sailing videos also :D at least when the rare event happens :D
We would also like sail videos! If you have down time in the build and go sailing, film it!
Thank you for the Reflex stove cleaning video !
Puppy!!! Each time that fluff is in the video, things are already 100% better (no smiley faces, but i am smiling).
You are a joy to follow! And your enthusiasm shows in your videos.
Thank you so much! :)
Mads, it’s you we all tune in to watch. Love all your
Videos. Such a bonus to see your “roommate” in this weeks video.
Don't feel bad, we'll be patient!
Maybe incorporate some of your sailing into a video at some point. I would enjoy seeing some sailing around your neck of the woods
Hey, no prepping, no spiffy. I don't mind seeing prep work. Thanks for taking the time to make these videos.
I wouldn’t worry about the content you always touch on something useful in your videos keep up the good work my friend enjoy the downtime while you have it
No problem, you still get two thumbs up for this video? I was watching another channel, can't remember which one, but they had either a newer Hunter or a Catalina. I remember being super impressed that all the thru-hulls were located at the foot of the companion way stairs in one large sump. I know that you can't physically do that, but having all the thru-hulls in one area I think is a real handy thing! One your never forget to open or close them when leaving the boat. I know a lot of people do not close their seacocks everytime they leave the boat for an afternoon or a quick trip to the beach. But another channel, Wicked Salty lost their new boat water music because a seacock failed while they were ashore! I think it's a good practice to open and close them no matter what each and everytime so if they are all located in one convenient place your probably more likely to do it. Also, I've become acustom to storing my ignition keys in that location so I never start the motor without opening the seacocks first.Possibly you can find a place and route all the lines to keep the seacocks in one place. I've seen some of your wiring jobs and feel confident that you are a genius and given enough time could figure something out! To bad they don't design all boats that way. I think there would be a lot less accidental sinkings! I still look forward to your video every week after all these years! I always learn something! Wish you were here in the states all the time! I'd love to come and work with you!
Suggestions for ‘better’ videos:
A- more content with your doggy
B- seeing you actually go sailing on board of Obelix
C- nothing wrong with your videos . ignore A+B carry on with your awesome videos as usual. Love it!
Thanks for taking me aboard every week. It’s pretty awesome to see your progress. Even if there’s only little work to do .
Mads, thank you for your concern about us subscribers, but don´t let that control what you do with your time or refit. If you miss a week, so be it, don´t beat yourself up about it. We love your work and I admire your knowhow. We will wait for videos, even if it takes time.
Tack från Sverige!
You could consider a larger Blake’s style skin fitting and seacock, which you then divide by way of a manifold into your raw water feed requirements. Advantages would be that the skin fitting and seacock would be stronger by virtue of being larger diameter and thicker bronze alloy, and you only have one rather than four holes in your hull. Disadvantage is that it would require a bit more pipe work under the cabin sole, but it pays dividends in reducing risk of water ingress.
On a different note, you can create an ‘in water’ skin fitting seal by having a prepared, sized wooden bung that you can use in conjunction with butyl tape to seal your skin fitting should you need to do some maintenance on your seacock without the luxury of being able to haul out. Just dive in with a snorkel and wire brush, clean the skin fitting of any growth that might compromise your seal with the wire brush, insert said wooden bung (having wrapped it with some fresh butyl tape first), and firmly seat it. The water pressure acting on the outside of it will keep it in place whilst you work on the seacock. Then don’t forget to remove it when you are ready to go again.
We used the smaller version rubber household loo pumps for that. Selfsealing and very easy to set and remove. You just have to make sure there is no line under Your hull to accidentally break those loose as long as there is no seacock or valve during servicing.
Dudenat or
Yes exactly, but it being a more commercial engine room term, I chose not use it in case it caused more confusion that the accuracy warranted.
Try using a pipe cleaner instead of a q-tip. Bit longer and easier to handle.
Keep on uploading video's, love them.
I've watched every single one of your videos and love your work. I do have to say though, this is the only video I've ever liked and it's simply because it makes me feel very involved in your project. Sadly i don't have any yacht building experience to help but I've got my fingers crossed that i eventually get to one day see a video of Athena sailing on the water
I vote Blake. The strength is the big thing that makes me say use the originals.
Mads, I'm sure I speak for many when I say that I would love to see you sailing.
Sailing sounds like a great choice.
Its getting there Mads!
I like how you take time to share your thoughts process. This is a benefit to other DYI'ers in thinking through our projects
I like the plastic sea cock on side. Make a saddle for it and slip and glue in underneath while it’s parallel to the hull. Makes for a secure device and cleaner area in the compartment. Easy fix
Maybe You'll find some place for the seacock in the engine compartment, somewhere in front of the engine. I could not figure out from your previous vids if there is enough space.
BTW, this is my first comment here but I've been following your channel for few years now. Thank you so much for all your great stuff you share with us. You are one of the "factors" that pushed me towards buying my own sailboat which I am the owner since June last year! Thank you!
Thank you for another great video. I would go with the old style metal seacocks, plastic ones (my experience) will break if someone accidentally steps on them.
A video of "A day in the life of Mads and his dog" would be something the hive would like. Maybe something about your work place or the work that you do.
It's so nice to see Yokel (sp?) and Obelix again - I'm perfectly fine with that! I hope you had a great time sailing, and I hope you will share some video with us next week!
Mads, nothing is boring, you're a nice "persona", that's the interesting part. Even sanding isn't boring.
You should show you also sailling!
About the inlet valve for engine cooling.. use a trudesign valve with indicator, and conect it to the ignition key, so that you can not start the engine with valve closed.
There must be a bronze (expensive but you will sleep well) low profile version somewhere. Good luck buddy.
No need to apologize Mads this was an awesome video the way it is and I love that you went sailing. If you are looking for filler content until you have a shed, you could do some tool/product review or some sailing video...maybe some singlehanded tricks. Thanks for another great video :)
Enjoy your sail! Cheers
Have you investigated Marelon? Maybe they would fit better. I would absolutely not install a seacock without that support collar or a flanged seacock. Another great video!
I think I speak for a lot of us when I say that we would be interested in watching you go sailing every now and then when you have weekends were you can't do much work on Athena. Regardless I for one still enjoy these videos even when you don't make as much noticeable progress. By the way, any updates on the plan for the rudder?
I used a trudesign with collar on only seawater inlet near the engine. Like you my grey water pumps overboard above ther water line but I have no grey water tank as boats much smaller than yours. The galley & heads sink both feed a single self priming diagphram pump that pumps them clear while holding down a button in the galley. Works ok & the less below water thru hulls the better. My loo is a chemical one.
Looking forward to the big Summer refit videos. Thanks Mads.
I thoroughly enjoy your work, thanks for posting these vids - I have learnt so much. Regarding the seacocks issue, you could consider spring loading the cover on a hinge so you have to hold it open when opening or closing the seacocks. That way it will always default to a closed position.
So happy to hear you're going sailing! We went out on the Neuse River today and it was marvelous
Stay with the trudesigns, use the collar, and find a better space for them. Maybe use 1 larger one and branch off that after the strainer. Maybe the engine room will do ?
With regard to seacocks: use 90 degrees elbow before the valve, but as you are on
Is it a bit fragile construction, you have to make support under the valve, some fiberglass reinforced plywood, and a pair of powerful buckles.
I love all your videos, but this one is something on a different level!!!! you magnificent bearded man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
How about a video of your sailing? Nice picture of the lovebugs on the bulkhead in Obelix.
Quit apologizing Mads! You could post a video of you reading a book and most of us would still be enthralled.
Your dog and my Ruby look like twins, no really, same color, shape and fur type. I had diesel heaters like that in my apartment in Germany. I wish I had seen this video back then, sadly it was several decades ago. The only drawback i see with using the original type thru hulls is the cost. You could always check and replace when you haul out for bottom paint every couple of years. Love your channel even though I'm out of the boat building for now.
Glassing in some tabs to bolt a safety bracket over the valves might be the easiest option to add a little more piece of mind against someone stepping on them in the rare event the panel is open.
I would also do to more things from a user experience and safety standpoint if you don't relocate those through hulls:
1. Paint the compartment a high vis colour.
2. Modify the cover panel with a warning sign on the bottom and a mounting system such that any time the panel is removed, it gets placed up in the way of anyone coming down the stairs with a clear and obvious warning of the hazard.
Safety bolts/latches to keep the panel closed if they don't already have some might be a good idea too. It isn't like you'll have this open all that often, so it becomes a risk management issue.
You can always put up some footage of you sailing. It would be great to see some shots of the Danish coastline and we haven't seen any film of your face turning green for ages.
For the seacock/valve under the companionway step you could put a little block or wedge under the valve. That way if someone steps on it there shouldn't be a whole lot of resultant flexing of the elbow.
Blake seacocks are great, super simple design and will last if serviced correctly.
Hi Mads - a suggestion for you re the existing thruhulls.
I suspect you'll find you may need to glass the existing holes over and redrill them - given the overall questionable decisions in the original manufacturing of the boat, you probably will find the core/glass structure wasn't properly epoxied and there might be osmosis.
2nd suggestion re seacock - TruDesign has a 120 degree bend kit for the seacock. From residential/commercial plumbing codes - 90 degrees bend for discharge is a big NO NO. Similar concerns will be true for your toilet discharge.
Hey Madz
Fun to watch your vids. I’ve done the same complete refits on two sailboats . Fun but frustrating at times.
I’ve hooked up with your friend in Canada and we are going to get together this summer when I go north again on my current sailboat.
Come on over and do a passage with me.
As it looks to me you can use the Trudesign valves in the compartment at the companionway, just not at the existing locations of the holes. Laminate the holes shut and drill new ones somewhat closer to the boat centerline. I can recommend the Trudesign valves out of my own experience, they are much easier to operate than traditional ball valves. Also, they are completely frost resistant, so no worries during wintertime your valves will crack and no polluting anti-freeze necessary.
ASAP Supplies in the uk have a good range of threaded stainless and bronze through hulls that can be cut down short and with a stainless ball valve it might be possible to get them short enough
There are always times when things get frustrating but I am sure it will all work out just fine. As for seacocks, difficult one. If using the Trudedesigns then the space under the steps is not the best place given you cannot use the collar. I would certainly be worried about the vulnerability. If they must go there then use the Blakes, they have a great reputation for a reason and as long as you service them then they will be fine and they don't have a 90deg bend so blockages are less likely. Whatever you decide it will be right as you usually find the right solution that works for you. Andy UK
No need for apologizing and I would go for metal seacocks, after all they will last for many years before you need to worry about corrosion. Feel free to take us sailing if there's little work to be done on Athena. :)
Seacocks,...I would suggest you go with bronze skin fittings, Electrically bond all the skin fittings,,, that way you won't get any corrosion.
Thanks Mads, for another interesting episode.
i looked on sailboat data at your boat mads and i sure like the room ,the 44% draft ,and the 13 foot beam nice design .
Mads, have you considered building a manifold or sea chest (have heard it called both)? 1 through hull connects to a distribution box and all your saltwater needs connect to the box. the benefit is that there is only 1 hole in the boat and you can shut off either a single section or the whole thing from the same spot.
Well I would go with the Blake type seacock they lasted 30 years ......
Or a very different idea. Reshape the hull with a complex fiberglass job so sea cock can lie horizontally, a bit like fitting a sea small chest, you could bump it out too it will have no effect as the turbulence back that far will not mind a bump.....but a Blake seacock is easier.
Cheers Warren
Another great video. Thanks again for putting these out
I like metal seacocks better than plastic as when metal corrodes at least you can see it. When plastic oxidizes and weakens it usually doesn't give you any visual warning that it's compromised. Overall the life span of both seems to be pretty close as well. But I'm old school and like tapered plug seacocks for the servicability ect
Go with the bronze metal ones but they all have to be wired together with a bonding system that connects to a zinc anode to stop electrolysis. This system should include all metal in the boat, Rudder post, chane plates, propeller shaft (use a copper brush), engine, metal tanks....... Use a wide flat copper strap run the length of the bilge then wire the fitting to the copper strapping. You will see a small tapped hole in most flanges on through hull fittings, it is to help you wire connect to the copper strapping. Copper strapping is used because the electron flow is on the surface of the strapping. Wire will corde over time causing resistance to the surface flow of electrons and stopping the system from working. I am guessing when the boat was built they did not instal a bonding system hence the electrolytes in your through hull fittings.
Hey Mads look into a sea chest, maybe you could get down to 1 or 2 thruhull fittings total
The Blakes seacock will outlast the plastic (composite) ones. Go with bronze, you will be close to 80 years old when you need to replace them...
Flushing with fresh water is all well and fine if you have a water maker or a 1000 gallon water tank. However even with those amenities it is best to have a Y valve so that in the event you come into a situation where fresh water is at a premium for whatever reason you still have the option to use raw water.
I won't have a Y valve but I'll have the option of just using the aft head :)
If I were in that position I would use fresh water in both and have a Y valve to each as well. The sea water can get to stinking in too many ports. In some like a few in that nation to the north of the US flushing with sea water in their ports can be the same as flushing with sewage. Not that the chemical spews in the US ports are any better mind you. The water makers do not purify many of those chemicals either, especially the petro chemicals. I would never eve run a water maker in a US or Canadian port,,,,ANY of their ports. But the same can be said of too many ports around the globe really.
Use the Blakes. As your old ones had works and lasted for 30 years last time, new ones should work fine for you. Definitely the easiest and cleanest solution. You probably really only needed to replace the old mounting screws with new screws for your old Blakes, unless of course the old Blakes had not been tied into your grounding system for your sacrificial zincs to corrode rather than the old Blakes.
Hey there. I'm new to your channel but thank you for all your videos. I'm about to buy a boat and move aboard with my dog, Oreo.
I have a question, when you sail, are you alone? And if so, what are your challenges you face. Almost all sailing channels are couples. I'm worried about being at sea alone but I figure I can do it.
Thanks again!
Go with the Blake seacocks. They will last forever given your propensity to maintain everything so well.
Something to consider is going with the metal ones for under the steps and use the plastic in the other locations. Also can you get 45 degree fittings instead of the 90s if so that would make the possibility of them plugging less
No worries, Mate! Others said the rest. Keep on keeping on...
Anyone who has ever restored or rebuilt any sort of car or boat as you are doing knows the doldrums that go with waiting for parts weather tools time and space. It is just part of the process. It is real. No reason to feel bad you are doing what you always do, sharing the facts with us.
we have no boat shed at our yacht club. i sealed the windows over the weekend and dust from someone sanding their old antifoul got onto it.
Not sure if this is possible, but if you could build up some fiberglass to help support the sea-cock that would eliminate the issue of it breaking if someone stepped on it... or just modify the floor so you can use it in normal mode without the 90 degree bend before the valve. Maybe move it just a little more aft in the boat next to the wall and have the floor jet up a few inches there Like a fake step. Hope that makes sense, I wish I could draw on here... :)
Got a bit worrying start of intro! Another quality crafted vlog cheers
I always use metal ( bronze ) thru hulls BELOW the water line. Plastic can break and should be above water line only.
Congratulations on not taking the regulator apart just to take it apart. That must have been hard. :D #BowThrusters!
BIODIESEL!! Awesome to hear you’re burning biodiesel in your heater. What blend are you using!!
Make your own mount for the thru-hull support.
Great to see Obelix and Yökel again (sorry about the spelling). Can't believe I've been following your channel for more than 3 years. With so much good content it doesn't seem nearly so long. I'd love to know if you've considered using your grey water tank to flush the head. I know there are issues around that such as filtering but they are probably not insurmountable and it would potentially be a very eco-friendly solution.
Thank you so much :) and thank you for staying tuned that long! The grey water tank is not for black water (the stuff from the head) :) There will be a separate holding tank for the forward head while the aft head will pump directly overboard.
Yes of course. I meant recycling the grey water to become the input to flush the forward head rather than using highly processed potable water. The blackwater system would remain unchanged, but the total amount of water the boat uses would be reduced very significantly.
The only problem with using gray water or salt water for flushing the heads is the smell. During 16 years aboard our boat I have found the only cure for head smell is to use fresh water for this purpose. Only practical if you have a water maker. In our case when passage making the water-maker produces 160 liters of fresh water per hour while charging batteries (about 500 liters per day) and while in the marina I have dockside water available so we have fresh water flushing toilets. I have retained the salt water systems for "emergencies" like the possibility of the water maker packing it in, (happened once during passage from Bermuda to BVI).
Perhaps the answer is to go fully composting head?! There are a few good reviews of composting heads like the one by Through the Portlight ua-cam.com/video/oghd7Sn74_c/v-deo.html
Noted the are two through hulls by the companion way, use the forward one and let the sea cock run along the axis instead of across that should ensure there won't be any risk of breaking it if the f
safety first MADs ,, right AVA ???? that will be the most important seacock thru hull on the boat , do it right , $$$ cost will not matter ,, don't use a cheap plastic one there ,,, if it fails at sea it may only fail once ,,,, use the bronze fitting then u have one less thing to worry about ,, my 2 CANADIAN cents worth , love your channel ,, most wood listen to you read twas the night before Christmas in the summer ,, no worries ,,,
solid planning is 1/2 the battle ,, good vid ,,, ty
You're a creative guy, make your own bracing for it
Still enjoying the video. .....go with bronze original through hull and valve. Just one of the hive members.
Groco bronze seacocks. It doesn't corrode and I've got some that are 40 years old.
Mads is going sailing? What does that have to do with boats?
a support block under the seacock will increase strenth from downwards load