Toyota 3RZ-FE Valve Adjustment
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
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*PLEASE READ THIS VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
In this video, we show you how to do a valve adjustment on a Toyota 3RZ-FE 4 cylinder engine. The techniques and procedures we show for this engine would also translate to other Toyota dual overhead cam engine like the 5VZ-FE V6.
We cover everything you need to know from showing you what you need to disconnect to get the valve cover off, how to properly measure the valve clearances, how to adjust the valve clearance for any valves that are out of spec, and how to get everything back together once you're all done.
*PARTS*
*If you need to buy shims, we recommend you visit your local Toyota dealer to order them or use an online Toyota Parts Seller.
*Shim #1 (2.50mm or .098in) #13753-74010
*Shim #2 (2.55mm or .100in) #13753-74030
*Shim #3 (2.60mm or .102in) #13753-74050
*Shim #4 (2.65mm or .104in) #13753-74070
*Shim #5 (2.70mm or .106in) #13753-74090
*Shim #6 (2.75mm or .108 in) #13753-74110
*Shim #7 (2.80mm or .110 in) #13753-74130
*Shim #8 (2.85mm or .112 in) #13753-74150
*Shim #9 (2.90mm or .114 in) #13753-74170
*Shim #10 (2.95mm or .116in) #13753-74190
*Shim #11 (3.00mm or .118in) #13753-74210
*Shim #12 (3.05mm or .120in) #13753-74230
*Shim #13 (3.10mm or .122in) #13753-74250
*Shim #14 (3.15mm or .124in) #13753-74270
*Shim #15 (3.20mm or .126in) #13753-74290
*Shim #16 (3.25mm or .128in) #13753-74310
*Shim #17 (3.30mm or .130in) #13753-74330
*HELPFUL TOOLS*
If you're looking for other tools not used in this video, check out Timmy's Master Tool List.
www.amazon.com...
*Stubby 3/8” Flex Head Ratchet - (it use to be available for sale separately but now we can only find it as part of this 4-piece set) amzn.to/39kQVit
*1/4" and 3/8" Flex Head Ratchet Set - (Jordan used the 3/8" ratchet from this set. These ratchets, like the one above and 1/2" one below are super functional and will make your wrenching life easier) amzn.to/2ql8nNA
*1/2" Drive Flex Head Gear Wrench Ratchet - (used a 1/2" ratchet to turn crankshaft bolt)
amzn.to/2Wnbq2r
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Standard Socket Set
amzn.to/32WIh0M
*3/8" Drive 6 Point Metric Deep Socket Set
amzn.to/37iQjVt
*1/2” Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Socket Set
amzn.to/35dKQwW
*Flex Head Box End Wrench Set - (used a flex head wrench to loosen and tighten the resonator nuts and also to get the very rear valve cover bolt removed and reinstalled)
amzn.to/31x8BOo
*3 Piece Channel Lock Set - (Jordan utilized a channel lock for compressing a constant tension hose clamp) amzn.to/33Hj4rE
*90 Degree Needle Nose Piers - (for constant tension hose clamps, I prefer using a 90 degree needle nose pliers) amzn.to/2VYUro8
*20 Piece Screwdriver Set - (Jordan used a screwdriver to release the wiring harness clips. This is a nice complete set if you're in the market for one) amzn.to/34aLrQ1
*3/8” T-Handle Tool - (Jordan likes using a T-handle tool to save time spinning out fasteners)
amzn.to/2Zf7Fie
*Milwaukee 3/8" Cordless Ratchet (It makes quick work of spinning off multiple fasteners like the valve cover bolts. The cordless ratchet is my preferred tool for applications like this)
amzn.to/2SNWIzq
*Milwaukee M12 Batteries (2 Pack)
amzn.to/2VIRxTa
*Milwaukee M12 Extended Capacity Battery (This is nice for jobs that require a lot of time and/or power like using the M12 Reciprocating saw to cut through something).
amzn.to/2XLH8rx
*Milwaukee M12 Battery Charger
amzn.to/2XJRd8v
Gear Wrench Magnetic Spark Plug Service Kit, 5/8" (After I saw Jordan using his Gear Wrench magnetic swivel spark plug socket, I decided I had to have this kit)
amzn.to/2SSya88
*Schley Valve Adjusting Tools (To compress bucket and hold it down for shim removal)
ebay.us/PVUk3s
*Valve Clearance Feeler Gauge Set (To check valve clearances)
amzn.to/2EJaVsp
*Micrometer (To measure shims)
amzn.to/2TmMAT7
*Bendable Magnetic Retriever (To pull shim out and put shim in)
amzn.to/2TwLS6c
*Pick Set (To help lift shim off bucket)
amzn.to/2XLaczv
*Toyota FIPG #00295-00103 - (For Engine Applications)
amzn.to/2QrNVFO
*CDI 3/8" Drive 30-250 Inch Pound Torque Wrench - (used to torque valve cover bolts and spark plugs) amzn.to/2J8W8Kz
**As Ebay Partner Network members, we earn commissions from qualifying purchases.
**As Amazon Associates we earn from qualifying purchases.
*PLEASE READ THE VIDEO DESCRIPTION FOR HELPFUL INFORMATION*
This is the best instructional video i have ever seen.
Wow thanks for the nice compliment. We really appreciate it!
@@subtegral Thanks! Glad you're liking what we're doing.
Perfect Job, Greetings from Colombia
Thanks Juan.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi, I want to know what could happend if I never do this maintenance, I have a Toyota Land Cruiser 90, with this engine and over 200,000 miles and I never did the adjust valve clearance; at this moment I am having knocking noises betwen 2000 and 3000 rpm and my idle is not quiet; i change my PCV valve and fuel injectors, also fuel pump and fuel filters but the problem persist.
@@JuanCarvajal21 Valve clearances generally tighten over time, especially the exhaust valves, If the valve clearance gets too tight, the valve won't close all the way. This can end up causing the valve seat or the valve itself to be damaged. Basically a hole gets burned into it. This would cause a loss of compression and you would get a misfire on that cylinder. I don't know if it could cause an engine knock though. I think your problem is something else.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you very much
@@JuanCarvajal21 You're welcome.
Very clear information and instructions. Thanks for sharing.
You're very welcome.
This is the BEST procedure and video as well as narration I have seen in a long time. I have a X2RZ to do and looks like not much difference. But I’ll look for one for the 2RZ just in case before I start. I’m 83 and have played with all sorts of cars since I was 25.
Thank you both.
Thanks for the compliment. It's awesome you're still turning wrenches in your 80's.
Great video, as always! Would love for a 5VZ-FE version but this one will do just fine in conjunction with the FSM. I've created a 5VZ-FE spreadsheet that mimics Jordan's, if you would like it message me.
Sure, I would like a spreadsheet for the 5VZ-FE engine. Here's my email address: mtbtim@sbcglobal.net We will eventually do a valve adjustment video for the 6 cylinder motor.
J
@@TimmyTheToolman did you ever get his spreadsheet?
@@weijia8088 I did and I looked at it recently and was a bit confused how it was organized so I made up my own. It's nothing fancy but it will work.
I love his engine bay basket mod! Can you ask him where he found his basket at? I want to add one too!
I'll ask Jordan to respond to your question.
Thanks man!
Amazing Perfect UA-cam 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thanks for the nice compliment. Jordan, Sean and I appreciate it.
Very thorough. I would be curious how to determine if valve adjust is necessary other than by high mileage or to routinely check when valve cover gasket needs replacement? Thanks
The only way to determine if they need adjusting is by doing what we show in the video. Routine checks usually based on a certain amount of mileage is what people do.
you should adjust according to most around 60k miles but what i would recommend every year.. since exhaust going out of specs without noticable rough idle or ticking but will start to shorten valves and valve-seat life expectancy and crack your exhaust manifold.
you can check it by simply putting a paper on the end of exhaust pipe while idling,, it should push the paper smoothly,, if paper slightly seems being sucked in then valves need to be adjusted.
checking valves is saving you a ton of money down the road while restoring performance and fuel economy, its always worth to chekc
@@TheDesertegal7 Thanks for this information. Good stuff.
@@TimmyTheToolman most welcome,, one more thing.. o2 sensor will perform better when having consistent exhaust flow.
I bought my son a 96 Tacoma (3rz). I got it because of the reputation of the engine, but I feel like, even for a 4cyl., shes a little weak. I'm going to start with valve adjustment (thank you much for the detailed video!), but, what would be the next system to look in to?
Even the 3.4 liter V6 isn't a powerhouse. These rigs have never been known for their power. They are known for their reliability.
Buen día, oriente me por favor,quiero cambiar los botadores de mi Toyota Camry 98 porque empezó a sonar raro como los saco,gracias
Very helpful video. I think this was my second time watching. I eventually want to check/adjust valve clearances on my 99 ES300 and 02 Sienna. Since both are the V6 1MZFE, I have a question unanswered from this video that I'm hoping you might have an idea about. Detailed valve adjustment videos on these vehicles are hard to find.
In the repair manual, when rotating the crank timing to measure the separate groups of valve clearances, on the 1mzfe it involves 1st group at cylinder 1 TDC, then it moves on to crank rotated 240 degrees for the 2nd group of valves, then another 240 degree rotation for the 3rd group.
SO... my question about that is... how precise does the degree of turn need to be? Enough to need some kind of special diagram around the crank to assist? Unlike the 4 cylinder, you have no marks on the crank to guide your ending point when not on the special timing set marks like TDC. OR, is it not as much about the exact preciseness of the degree as it is about those cam lobes just being at the very top of its turn on those specific valve locations?
My other question involves measuring the shims after removal. If I have a very precise digital caliper tool, can that be used instead of needing to buy a micrometer? Seems to me like that would be fine, but I'm not sure why they specifically call for the micrometer.
Both of your questions are very good. I looked at the instructions in the FSM for the 5VZ-FE engine and it's similar with a certain degree turn to check the next set of valve clearances. I know a guy who has experience with this and I will ask him.
For your question about using a digital caliper vs a micrometer, I'm not sure either but I imagine the micrometer is going to be more precise. I'll ask my friend about this as well and get back to you.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you! I appreciate this. It's the little questions like this that when enlightened about can make a huge difference in confidence going in!
@@nikovandh No problem. I'll try to get ahold of him tomorrow.
@@nikovandh I got an answer for you. The degree turn is just a guide to get the next set of valves ready to be measured. You're mainly looking at the position of the cam lobes and measuring the ones with the cam lobes pointing up. The lobes don't really even have to be pointing up but they obviously need to be not pushing on the shim for you to measure the valve lash. I hope that makes sense.
@@TimmyTheToolman totally makes sense, and was the answer I was hoping for 😁 thanks so much for taking the time
Good woork men frome mexico city👍👏👏👏👏
Thanks my Mexican Toyota Brother!
What size are the shims
Open the video description of this video: ua-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/v-deo.html We list all the available shims sizes Toyota sells.
Hey Timmy. Would you say that if I’m already hearing a very loud audible ticking/tapping from the top end that at least one of my valves itself is probably destroyed?
Not necessarily. Do the valve adjustment and hope for the best.
@@TimmyTheToolman I just checked the lash all my intakes are in specs and all of my exhausts need adjusting.(too tight) but one (#4 cylinder farthest back against firewall) is so loose I can’t check it with my feeler gauges. So that’s the culprit.
@@calvinledsome4614 Well, you figured it out. Now the question is whether or not it's salvageable. I thought that exhaust valves usually tighten up but this loosened so I don't know what that means. So that valve isn't opening as far as it should then, right? Hopefully Toyota has a shim that will bring it back in spec. I'm thinking this is better than too tight though because too tight ends up burning up a valve.
This was very informative and cool! Thank you Tim, Sean, and Jordan! This means a great deal to many of us who are getting back into fixing our Toyotas. Jordan sure has plenty of skills when it comes to automotive work and detail specs. You guys work great together! 👍Fonzie thumbs up!👍
We're glad you appreciate the video. Jordan was in our area for several years for his job but he moved back to Georgia unfortunately so you won't be seeing Jordan in any of our videos anymore. I shot a bunch of videos with him and he is an excellent wrenching partner. He will be missed. We might get him back to California for some 4wheeling adventures though with us. Thanks for the Fonzie thumbs up. AYYYYYYY
Well, I will just have to put up with the lifter ticking. This is way beyond anything an owner should have to do and this will be my last Toyota. Cadillac introduced hydraulic valve silencers in 1930 and every auto I have ever owned had them. This is an unacceptable design flaw, I did not buy a motorcycle, it is supposed to be a truck. Your video is well done, but - after I do all this measuring and determine that I need 7 or 8 shims, it is a 5 mile walk to the auto parts store and maybe they do not have those sizes. The whole thing is preposterous, I bought my 2003 Toyota tiny truck brand new, it has 45,000 miles and should have zero valve noise.
The ticking isn't the real problem or the reason you'd want to periodically check valve clearances. The exhaust valves in particular have been known to tighten up a bit and cause you to burn up a valve or valve seat. I grabbed this explanation from another guys video because I thought he explains it well: "If you’re like me and you’re wondering how tight valve clearances can lead to burnt exhaust valves let me make an effort to explain. Valve clearances affect the valve lift, which is another way to say how much the the valves open. If the valve clearance is too tight it is possible for the valve to open early during the combustion stage or even stay slightly open all the time! If this happens, the quality of the valve seat contact is lost and the hot gases created during the combustion stage are forced past the valve which burns the edges of the valve due to the concentration of heat and pressure. Ideally the valve should be completely closed during the combustion stage so that the valve can dissipate heat to the head with the use of conduction through the valve seat. Once combustion is complete and the piston is on its way back upwards the valves should open to expel the exhaust gas."
I don't know if I would agree if it's a design flaw. Lots of engines do require periodic valve clearance inspections and adjustments. Your 3RZ motor is actually pretty darn easy to work on. The unfortunate part of this valve adjustment process is the need for various shim sizes. It's particularly problematic if it's your only vehicle. There's a very good chance an auto parts store isn't going to have what you need. Ideally when doing this job is you check all the clearances, figure out what shim sizes you need to get the clearances back in spec and then you order them through Toyota. I know my Toyota dealer can get them to me in one day if they don't have them in stock.
So, in closing, no vehicle is perfect. If you take care of your Toyota, it will last you a long time, way longer than any Cadillac will, I guarantee that. In closing, I need to tell you that you could sell your Toyota truck for a lot of money. A 2003 with that low of mileage would attract lots of buyers and you could get top dollar for it. People would be racing to your home in an attempt to get there first to buy it. If you lived near me, I'd probably buy it from you.
I love that you make such detailed videos. Thank you
Thanks Colby. Great to hear your appreciate the videos we make. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Timmy, is there another way to perform this job? I was able to measure 7 shims but the rest will not come out. Please help!!
With the help of a friend, one person using a large flat blade screwdriver holds down the shim bucket while the other person gets the shim out. One technique to getting the shim out is a blast of compressed air from a fine tipped air gun to pop it free and then grabbing it with a magnet tool.
Start watching this video at play time 49 minutes and 24 seconds of us doing a valve adjustment on the 3.4 Liter V6 engine.
ua-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/v-deo.html
The only other way is to remove the cams and that's something I've never done on the 3RZ engine so I couldn't advise you on that.
Good luck and let me know if my suggestion helped you out.
Awesome video! Thanks for taking the time to explain everything every detail along the way.
Thanks and you're very welcome!
Tim turns the tool toward him.
Huh? I don't understand your comment. A time stamp and a little more verbiage would help.
@@TimmyTheToolmansounds like a silence of the lambs reference?
Pretty sure when I had a 3rz Tacoma and got this done at the dealer it was like 600$+ 😳💸
Depending on how many valves need adjusting will determine how much time is spent on a job like this. Dealer labor rates are expensive.
Timmy The Toolman Do I have to have the timing chain tensioner in the open or closed position when installing it ???
@@marcusmanuel4041 a little late, but closed then open it when installed lol
The basket mod is awesome! Just gave me an idea to mount a small toolbox in that spot on my truck!
You just made Jordan smile.
Timmah! What are your thoughts of this procedure on a 5VZFE with 341k miles. Will it have any effect on compression values at all. I obviously dont know much at all about this and still learning the curves. TY!
At your mileage, you should definitely check the valve clearances. It can affect the cylinder compression of the valve clearances, which have tightened, and they aren't closing all the way. A tight valve can also get a hole burned in it. ua-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/v-deo.htmlsi=2AuNKtkNpLMOdNlp
Wished I had this much room on my Toyota Regius van. I don't see how I or a toyota tech can get to the rear of the head.
I could easily see the problems with doing this job on a van. Good luck figuring it out. It might be one of those deals that the engine has to come out.
Of course only the back ones are out of spec on mine (plus the entire exhaust side I guess). Fun times 👍
Yep, you'll be having some fun. One thing we didn't talk about in the video is that you can use a blast of compressed air from a fine-tipped air nozzle to free the shim from the bucket. Get the bucket notch facing you and put the nozzle tip right at the notch and give it a quick blast. It works pretty damn well.
I was able to get my caliper pistons out with a bike floor pump - woodworking clamps were super helpful. Thanks for the great video!
@JardineiroRaizes It sounds like you're talking about brake calipers, and this is a video about a valve adjustment.
@@TimmyTheToolman Oops! You are right. I was watching your caliper rebuild video as well and got them mixed up. I'll put my original comment where it belongs.
Hey, I have a question for you 😃. I checked all mine today, and while the intake side was all in spec except 2 which were just barely under, the exhaust side was a complete mess. I had measurements range from 0.006” to 0.011”. Is there even a way to get my 0.006” clearance to the proper 0.012” where I want it? I don’t think they make shims with that big of difference. It could also be a measurement error but I checked it a couple times. I really don’t want to end up with any burnt valves because I just got this truck and I want to keep it a long time. Any insight is much appreciated, thank you!
You'll be able to bring them all back in spec. Check the video description. We list all the shims Toyota makes.
@@TimmyTheToolmanThank you! I got my decimals mixed up haha. I thought the biggest difference between the smallest one and the biggest one was only 0.003” but it’s actually 0.03”. Thank you!
Am I correct in that the valve clearance is the same for the 2.7l engine as the 2.4l engine?
@rbjazzman That might be a safe assumption, but I can't say for sure and don't want to steer you wrong.
At time stamp 36:22 ( and thereabouts )......the tool shown does a lousy job as described, wherein the owner had to modify it to work better. A MUCH BETTER TOOL is the one used to do the same job on Honda motorcycle engines. It works like a dream, and no need to modify the tool in any way.
Could you please supply a link to that Honda Motorcycle tool? I'd like to buy it and I imagine others would too. I'll put a link in the video description once you share it with us. Thanks!
@@TimmyTheToolman Brother I wish I could. There was a different video for the same project on the 3RZ, and the maker of that video also complained about the tool not performing very well. It was A VIEWER who posted a comment stating how the tool made to do this job for Honda motorcycle engines was far superior & needed no modification for the Toyota 3RZ valve adjustment. He stated that he experienced the same problem as well when doing his own 3RZ. But he happened to also own a couple bikes, and so he broke out that tool made for Honda, ( I think the tool is actually made by Honda ) and it worked perfectly. He did describe the tool & the actual part number, but he didn't provide any link. And what's worse, is I can't recall which video or channel it was. I watched that video about 2 yrs ago. I would love to find out myself!!! I own a 2000 Taco 4x4 with the 3RZ-FE. Bought it new. I have 361,000 miles on it. Still runs great. Would love to do this valve adjustment as well, because mine hasn't been done yet. Just thought I would mention it. Maybe another viewer will see this conversation & help us all out.
@@howabouthetruth2157 Ok, I'll do a little searching and see if I can find it.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'll give it a try as well.......to find that video and comment anyway. It's a long shot, so. It may be fairly easy to find via Honda motorcycle dealerships. ???? Just subbed. Love your channel.
@@TimmyTheToolman ATTENTION TIMMY, I FOUND IT!!! However, I was slightly mistaken. I'm about to give you the video title with the exact time stamp to hear the gentleman explain why the Honda tool works much better, but first, it was so long ago, I thought the tool in question was the bucket holder itself, but no, it is THE PLIARS that actually make it difficult for the bucket holder to work properly. ( And it wasn't a viewer as I thought, it was the video maker himself. But a viewer did concur the problem in the comments using those special pliars exactly like the ones used in your video ) He used to be a Honda motorcycle tech/mechanic years before. So he discovered that the tool used to depress the bucket ( that replaces THE PLIARS ) made by Honda allows much more precise control, allowing the bucket holder that you already have to work much better. So it's THE PLIARS that make it difficult to get the bucket holder to work properly. Anyway, the youtube ch is: "z399y" and the exact video title is: "Toyota Tacoma 2.7L (3RZ-FE) Valve Adjustment". Skip ahead to time stamp: 4:27 to hear him explain it, then he shows the tool made by Honda.....and then at time stamp: 6:00......he shows the actual kit with the special tool in question and the packaging with the exact part number for ordering from Honda. Sorry about the mix up, on my part, it's been a couple years. HOPE THIS HELPS EVERYONE FOR THIS JOB!!! Steve.....Melbourne, Fl.
Are you in Socal? Can I bring you my 4runner for this adjustment? Do you work at a shop?
We're in NorCal and we're not mechanics for hire. We work out of our homes making videos to help people do the jobs themselves.
this video was done really well; i say that from the perspective of someone who used to shoot video for a living, including making an aircooled vw engine building video back in the '90's, it's still up on my channel... we shot on hi-8 tape so the video gear was lousy, and i had to add narration from a script after the fact; making a good instructional video can be complicated! thx for your work on this.
Thank you for the nice compliment. We try our best to give our viewers very detailed videos to use as a tutorial. It's a lot of work to film and edit these videos, but we know we're helping people,.so it's worth it. Happy Wrenching!
That Schley Product valve shim removal tool is no longer manufactured. Do you have any suggestion? And this video is very useful for me to utilize. Thank you!
Schley still makes that toolset. We have a link in the video description. You have to click on "....more" to expand the video description and you'll find the link as well as links to all the other tools we used for the job. But, since making this video, I found out I could source the actual OEM special service tools which are far superior to the ones Schley makes. The only caveat is, they are quite a bit more expensive. I think the OEM toolset is worth the price tag though. *Toyota OEM Valve Clearance Adjust Tool Set #09248-55040 Here's a website that sells it: toyota.service-solutions.com/en-US/Pages/ItemDetail.aspx?SKU=09248-55040
@@TimmyTheToolman Hey man, thanks for responding. Well, I went directly to that link you provided for I was on a ordering marathon to get my truck back up and running. When I clicked on the link you provided, it said it wasn't available. So I went all over the place and I couldn't find anyone who sells that exact product except one shop up in the northwest as well as Australia. However, THANK YOU for posting that toyota OEM link because I'll go down that route. And please do keep up with the videos especially with the 1st generation Tacoma. Thank you sir!
@@trinitysite72 No problem. Good luck with the job.
Hi Tim, thanks for this video. Do you have a video on how to read the shim selection chart? Thanks
No video for that. You just have to do the math like we show you in the video and pick the right size shim from the 17 sizes available to get your valve lash back in spec.
Love your vids! Thanks, their a service to yota fans everywhere! I need to replace my rear axle seals and bearings. I am also due for a valve adjustment too. My 2000 4runner is at 350,000 miles, and still runs great! My Runner history is linked to an employee at the Yota proving grounds in AZ desert. It is superior in reliability than any vehicle I've owned.
That particular generation of the 4Runner seems to be a very reliable and long lasting vehicle.
Happy to hear you like the videos we're making. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know. Good luck with all the planned work. Happy Wrenching!
How do you depress the shim/bucket at valve 5 (front side of cylinder 3) where the hexagonal wrench head is on the camshaft? The Schley pliers don't seem to fit in here, unless I am missing something. Any other tools/techniques to get the bucket held down for shim removal? Seems like Toyota fixed this issue on some of their other motors by moving the hex away from the cams.
Your videos are amazing..... thank you so much
You could try the two-person technique. One guy used a big flat blade screwdriver and pushes the bucket down while the other guy uses a blast of compressed air from a fine tipped air gun to dislodge the shim and catches it with a magnet. Pushing down the bucket isn't exactly easy when you're leaning over the fender. I found it's actually easier to get all the way on top of the engine to be able to apply the necessary force with the screwdriver to compress the bucket. You just have to be careful where you're kneeling and putting your feet that you don't break something.
Thanks for the compliment. I hope my suggestion helps you out.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks, Tim. Will give it a shot
@@garrettrauck8158 Let me know how it works out for you.
you can alternately tape down some 400 grit wet /dry sand paper, on a small granite surface plate, for little shim tweaks like that....sand, rotate, sand.
just make sure the modified shim is very clean and oiled before reinstalling.
but living in the middle of know where has taught me not to tear into an engine unless i have a back up mode, so it's not going to be so easy for me this time....i have to do a valve job.
That's a good idea with the sand paper. Having a back-up vehicle is imperative for the more involved jobs.
@@TimmyTheToolman my life just got too busy...
when i started hearing the exhaust pops, all i could think about was getting a motorcycle up and running.
@@TimmyTheToolman my mistake was trying to make enough time to do all the other work my truck needed, all at the same time .... i should have just did like you did here, and left the other stuff for later.
2rz and 3rz engines need to be checked quite often in my experience. Replaced a lot of valves for engines. 5vzfe for some reason is way better at keeping the valves in spec.
Hey Casey, thanks for sharing this. I had heard the same thing. I know this is why Jordan checks his valve clearances so often because he also knows this is the case with the 3RZ motors. When I get around the checking the valve clearances on my 5VZ engine, it will be interesting to see what the clearances are at. We will be doing it soon and my engine is at approximately 190k.
I have 1 rz it work. Fairly good
@@TimmyTheToolman e
So the only way to do this is determining the shims you need, then pushing pause in the project until you can get the correct shims? I like to get everything I need before I start a project because I live in the boonies. But apparently I'll have to hit pause, order the shims online or from the nearest dealer, wait, then install the new shims. It is what it is.
Yes, that's pretty much it. What I have done, and it's fairly expensive, is I went to my local dealer and ordered 2 shims of every size available to build a kit of shims. But, even then you might run out of one particular shim if more than 2 valves need the same shim to get back into spec. After doing a valve adjustment on my 5VZ engine, doing one as part of a cylinder head swap on Sean's 2002 4runner, and buying more shims from my local dealer, I have a lot more shims at my disposal now.
One idea is you order a bunch of shims from your local dealer. I would imagine they accept returns. After you're done with the job, you return the ones you didn't use and get a refund.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah, that makes sense. It's a little easier if you need the extra shims anyway because you know you will do more valve jobs. The 3RZ and 5VZ don't use the same shims do they? Because I own vehicles with both engines... I'll check with my closest dealer on the return policy! At least I have a spare vehicle on hand, which is great if I end up with the valve cover off waiting for shims. Thanks for the helpful video and info!
@@joelhickok4368 Yes, the 3RZ and 5VZ use the same shims. Check out the video we did on doing the valve adjustment on the 5VZ: ua-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/v-deo.html
You're welcome and good luck with the valve adjustment. The OEM valve shim tools are far superior to the Schley tools. If you can afford it, I'd get the OEM set. We provide a link in the video description.
It’s one hundred and ten thousands and three tenths of a inch not one one o three goon😂. Extremely informative video. Not sure how someone could mess this up with yall not leaving out any detail and saying it 15 times. Cheers mate!!
Detailed videos is what we do.
What about that spread sheet would be so much faster
We don't have one to share with you, unfortunately.
Hey Timmy I know you’ve heard of the famous “Tacoma Tick” my 04 2.7l Tacoma is ticking constantly from drivers side of the engine. I’ve heard many reasons of it online but not one way to fix it. What is your take on the “Tacoma tick” and anyways to make it go away/ quiet? Thanks keep up the great Toyota videos.
I actually haven't heard of Tacoma Tick. It could be valves out of adjustment or possibly a noisy lifter. Try adjusting the valves and see where that gets you. If that doesn't change anything, I don't know what you would try next. Some engines are noisier than others. I doubt you'd want to tear apart your engine to find the source of the noise, because that would be a lot of work and there's a good chance you wont find the answer. If you're doubting the health of your engine, you could always do a compression test of the cylinders. We have a compression test video you can use: ua-cam.com/video/ky7bndfFpO0/v-deo.html If you found that one of your cylinders had a low compression number, you would want to do a leak down test and we have a video for that as well: ua-cam.com/video/8yuCHzqH7MY/v-deo.html
Timmy The Toolman Thanks for the reply! If you google Tacoma tick on the Tacomaworld forms you will see many people with the same issue.. But they say it’s a combination of noisey injectors, evap valve under intake, exhaust leak, vsv noise. Truck runs perfect drives perfect no change to it just recently started ticking.. I will have to start with the valve thanks again 👍🏼
@@RidingWiithJacob Well, good luck figuring it out. Then me know how it goes.
Timmy The Toolman hey well the noise continued to get a little louder and more to a clacking noise I have the 2.7l took it to a mechanic and he is almost positive it is the timing chain hitting the guides.. how tough of a job is this and would you happen to have a video on it already? Thanks
@@RidingWiithJacob I'll ask my buddy Jordan since he has experience with this engine. If I don't get back to you send me a reminder.
Thanks guys! I just ordered the shim I need to adjust it a tight exh valve. Btw, the motion pro kawasaki tool works great for depressing the bucket
You're welcome. Thanks for the tool tip.
Is there a video for a 2000 tundra V8 4.7L
Sorry, we haven't done a valve adjustment on the 4.7 liter.
I am in the process of doing this. One warning I have is that if you have to replace multiple shims, its tempting to have multiple shims removed instead of putting them back in after you remove them (DO NOT DO THIS). Take the measurement of the old shim and put it back in until you get the replacement shim.
If you try turning the cam shaft when a shim is removed, the lobe of the camshaft will be able to catch on the side of the shim bucket and if you keep turning it WILL break the edge of the shim bucket, and there could be damage to the camshaft in extreme cases.
I managed to remove 12/14 shims without having this happen, but as I rotated the camshaft to get the final shims I felt it catch, even with measures in place to avoid this problem it was very easy to break the edge of the shim bucket. I was aware of this possibility ahead of time and I still had it happen. Its totally my fault. And you'll have to remove the camshaft to replace the shim bucket.
A tip for removing the cylinder 4 shims, taking apart the pliers and using the hook to push down on the shim can make access a bit easier.
Thanks for the comment. We had the exact same experience as you when we recently filmed a valve adjustment on the 3.4 Liter V6 engine. We ended up removing the exhaust cams because so many valves were out of spec. ua-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/v-deo.html
Greeting, Is the calibration number of the first valve the final number to do the math or does it have to become a specific number and if so, what would be its calibration number?
The intake valves and exhaust valves have a clearance range. If a valve clearance is outside the spec, you then choose a valve shim that will bring it back within that spec. We were very detailed in making this video. If you watch it, you should be able to perform this job with the right tools.
This video and all your other videos help so much! I have a 97 4Runner with the 3.4l and it sound like a Diesel engine… I’m hoping it has something to do with valve lashing or maybe an exhaust leak and nothing to internal. Have you experienced something like this before. No loss of power or anything like.
Yeah, you could have an exhaust leak. Invest in a mechanic's stethoscope. They are great at helping you narrow down the source of a noise. Here's the one I own: amzn.to/30d7ViV
I havent seen the 4 cylinder 3rd gens in forever very nice and some what rare
They are pretty rare. I do like the the 4cylinder / 5 speed combo. Pretty cool.
@@TimmyTheToolman I agree 4 cylinder with 5 speed manual are nice
@@subtegral very awesome
@@subtegral that is gorgeous how it holding up
@@subtegral that is awesome to hear
Not just blowing smoke, but your vids are some of the best explained videos on all of UA-cam. Thank you.
Do you happen to have a video on how to remove the intake manifold on the 3rz?
Thanks for the nice compliment Andrew. We appreciate it! We unfortunately don't have a video for the removal of the intake manifold on the 3RZ.
Very well done, easy to follow, thorough.
Thanks John.
This is perfect info! I have the shim tool but no instructions on how to use it on my 93 Camry wagon 5SFE 4 cylinder.
Good luck with the valve lash inspection and adjustment. It can be a test of patience, so if you get frustrated, step away and come back to it.
Let's say ya bought a new head with all new valve train components ( valves, springs, keepers, valve seals, etc ) but you are using your existing/old cams & buckets that are still in great condition. ( You would still have your existing shims as well, of course. ) Seeing as all the valves are closed due to the valve springs when the head isn't installed yet, Is it possible to check & adjust valve lash with the head sitting on a work bench?
I suppose you could attach the intake and exhaust cams and get a wrench on the cam sprocket bolt to turn the cam lobes to check the valve lash but then you'd have to remove the cams to get the heads onto the block. I don't know if that would be easier and a time savings.
@@TimmyTheToolman Yeah, I meant to mention bolting the cams onto the head to do it. Seems like I remember seeing a couple videos of guys checking & adjusting the valve lash this way, but as you just stated, it may or may not be any easier.
Anyone know how you would get an idea of what shim you need if the shim is already tight to the cam… how would you measure that??
At some point, the thinnest shim isn't enough to bring you back within spec. When that's the case, you run the engine as is or you rebuild the heads.
@@TimmyTheToolman I have 3 exhaust valves that are at 0.002, so hopefully they make one that is 0.012 thinner than what’s on there to at least get me to the bottom of the tolerance… I don’t see why not, they look plenty thick….
@@freequenc5266 Go to your local Toyota dealer parts department and they will tell you the shim thicknesses that are available. Hopefully they will have the right ones you need.
I forgot, we list the available shim thicknesses in the vide description of this video: ua-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/v-deo.html
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for the replies, appreciate it!
Timmy, Another great Video. Thanks so much for taking the time to help us yoda owners. Need your help or advise. I have a 94 P/U 4x4 3.0 V6.
215,000 miles. Its running great, I'v have had this truck since 30,000 never done the valves.The occasion to replace the Valve cover gasket's is here, passenger side starting to leak.
So the FSM says the Valve clearance are Intake ( 0.18- 0.28 mm 0.007- 0.011 in) Exhaust (0.22 - 0.32 mm 0.009 - 0.013 in) I understand the Calculation Formula on the Intake N =T + A -0.23 mm and exhaust N= T + A- 0.27 the minus .023 & 0.27 are middle numbers for the valve clearances. So hears my question (Sorry it has gotten wordy) if the finial # for the new shim comes out to lets say 2.72 they do not make a shim that size so is it better to go to the 2.70 shim or the 2.75 your assistance or advice would be much appreciated.
Hey Gary, since valve clearances tend to tighten rather than loosen, I'd choose to be closer to having more clearance rather than on the border of not having enough. Having the clearance on the higher side will buy more time between valve adjustments. So, I would go with the 2.7mm shim.
Why would all dash/idiot lights come on? I have changed the alternator but the problem persists. Any suggestions?
Have you checked the condition of your battery and charging system with a multimeter or volt meter?
Torque spec: 55 inch pounds
55 inch pounds for what fastener(s)? We shot this video quite some time ago so I don't remember a torque value we couldn't provide in the video. Just a few more words would be helpful.
Thanks dudes, my car just failed the emissions test, gonna replace the O2 sensor and yes maybe even check the clearance on the valves on a 3sz-ve engine. Toyota is just a pain for valve adjustment compared to Honda, but the way Toyota design its valve clearance makes it more reliable as shims don't deteriorate as quickly as a nut and a screw tighten as in the Honda.
You're welcome. Hopefully you'll be able to get it to pass. Yeah, the Toyota design for valve adjustments is a bit of a pain but it's nice to know that there's something good about it compared to other manufacturers.
You have to be David god dam Copperfield to get those shims out!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's a pain in the ass, no doubt. Lots of shops pass on this job because it's such a hassle. To put it mildly it's a test of patience and a back-breaker. But, it can be done and that's why we made the video to share some tips and tricks to make the process less annoying.
@@TimmyTheToolman For sure, and I’m glad for your video. Very helpful. Eventually got the shims out once I found out you keep the tool wedged under the cam shaft and pop the shim out. But that #4 cylinder is a sob.
@@punk4pabst Yeah the rear cylinder is the hardest.
Oh oh. Honda. Thems fightin words🤣🤣🤣
Yeah, we don't work on any of those stinkin Hondas.
@@TimmyTheToolman 🤣🤣🤣
Hi, thanks for a very detail video. I purchased the same Schley tool but due to the engine design of Lexus V8 (slanted) there isn't enough room to press the tool far enough to depress the buckets. Is there any other way to depress the buckets? thanks in advance for your help.
That Schley tool is problematic but if you flatten it out a bit by squeezing it in a bench vice of hammering it a bit you can lengthen it's profile.
Another way is with the help of a friend. One person using a large flat blade screwdriver holds down the shim bucket while the other person gets the shim out. One technique to getting the shim out is a blast of compressed air from a fine tipped air gun to pop it free and then grabbing it with a magnet tool.
Start watching this video at play time 49 minutes and 24 seconds of us doing a valve adjustment on the 3.4 Liter V6 engine.
ua-cam.com/video/MOlmjtlO7TI/v-deo.html
The only other way is to remove the cams and that's something I've never done on the 3RZ engine so I couldn't advise you on that.
Good luck and let me know if my suggestion helped you out.
@@TimmyTheToolman I purchased the Kawasaki Motion Pro tool for depressing the buckets and shims. And it is somewhat working. Issue now is with the removal of the shims since this Lexus model doesn't have a notch on the bucket but rather a hole on top of the shim. Lexus manual recommends using compressed air and magnet to remove the shim that didn't work. Also tried putting a pick in the hole and pulling up the shim. All the exhaust clearance were at 0.20 and minimum clearance is 0.25 while intake clearance are at 0.15 and minimum clearance is 0.15 so Intakes are minimally within spec. My next option is to just remove the exhaust cams which is a lot easier that removing both cams. Please let me know if there is any alternative way I can try. Thanks again.
@@simple8818 Get a friend to help you by holding down the bucket with a large flat blade screwdriver while you use the compressed air and magnet to remove the shim. We cover this technique in our 5VZ-FE valve adjustment video.
Excellent video I give you an a
Thanks! We were hoping to maintain our 4.0 grade average.
Best detailed video on use of the Schley 88250 and 88251 tool combo.Thanks guys!
Thanks Albert and you're very welcome.
At around 28:30 you mention “pray to god that’s (cylinder 4 valves) aren’t out (out of spec)”. So my cylinder 4 exhaust valves are 0.003” clearance and in need of new shims. Do you have any recommendations for swapping out those shims in such a tight space?
No, we don't have advice you because our buddy Jordan who's rig we were using for the video never had to had to make adjustments for the rear cylinder. It's the same procedure we show with the exception that it's just going to be hard on you to lean way back over the top of the engine to get the holder tool in place on the edge of the bucket so you can fish the shim out. It's for sure going to be a test of patience for you. If you start screaming and swearing, take a break and come back to it. Let us know how it goes.
Wow back to your video for a refresher. Btw I did succeed at getting that fourth cylinder completed 3 yrs ago. My previous comment three years ago caught my eye (not realizing it was my own question), I was about to comment to give some advice😅. Thanks for what you do Brotha!
Awesome! Might be running this motor in my pickup, thanks for the video!
Glad you like it my Kuwati Brother. You're welcome!
Very nice video nice teaching great😘😘😘
Dear sir need like this video for 1nz Toyota car thanks
Genius great video still have hope for we still have some smart young people ; left thank you
Thanks Matt and you're very welcome.
hello Tim, i saw you're video and its great! i got a 2004 tacoma 2.4L I'm hearing loud ticking noise coming from the val-cover do you have a shop or can you recommend me to one that won't over charge me and take advantage.
Depends where you are located. If you're in the California Bay Area, I would recommend Yota1 Performance in Riverbank, California. Riverbank is near Modesto. They are a busy shop so you'll have a wait a bit before they could fit you in with their schedule.
@@TimmyTheToolman
Thank you Tim, i am actually in Mountain View CA, Any shop closer to me?
The 4Runner service maintenance says to check valve clearance and they quote 0.10 labor units, so about 6 minutes. Do they suggest to check them just by listening to it or simply based on mileage?
Don't know how they could check valve clearances in a tenth of an hour unless they are a wizard or they have x-ray vision.
@@subtegral Thanks for the comment. That made me laugh.
I’ve just finished checking the valve clearance on my 98 3rz, found all the intake valves within spec (0.07-0.08) I found 3 exhaust valves out of spec: cyl 1 front valve @ 0.008, cyl 2 rear valve @ 0.009, cyl 4 front valve @ 0.009 - all of these will be corrected however I found cyl 4 rear valve to be @ 0.014 which is at the higher end of the spec. since exhaust valve clearance usually tighten ( decrease) i’m leaning towards leaving it like so (also because it’s a pain to service) what do you and Jordan suggest?
Yeah, your logic is sound. I wouldn't mess with the cylinder 4 exhaust valve either since it's still actually within spec, and like you said, they usually tighten.
Timmy The Toolman Thanks for your reply. Waiting on the shims from the dealer.. I’m glad the procedure has to be done on a cold engine, although it’s a 4 banger it’s still awkward..
Cool video! Thanks for sharing!
We're glad you like it.
Thank you for your response. I realize that your channel does not specialize in trouble shooting. Any way, the good news is that the problem is corrected. After a detailed review of the wiring drawing the charge light relay was changed so as to solve the problem. I have worked on most models of toyotas for years and enjoy the challenge.
Good job figuring out the problem.
Could an incorrect valve clearance cause a crank but no start on a 4runner 3.4L V6 engine?
No, I don't think so.
Hi, I have had to reshim 2 valves that had no clearance now twice within 1000 kilometers of driving, any ideas what might be causing this.
The only thing I can think of is the valve seat is deteriorating at an accelerated rate.
@@TimmyTheToolman I was wondering if the head has gone soft.
He never said what unit of measurement he’s using on the feeler gauges. The mm or the other measurement
Jordan was using thousands of an inch. For example, when he was saying 12 or 13, that was a value of .012 inches or .013 inches.
Great video very detailed and informative, thank you.
I'm currently going through this job and I've corrected all the exhaust valves most of which had an original clearance of 0.006"!
But for the intake side I've only had to change 3 valves as they were on the edge of spec at 0.006" now after changing the shims two of those intake valves measure at 0.010" and one valve at 0.011".
Not sure where I've gone wrong.
I've tried to find any information regarding if this is acceptable as it seems to be okay for exhaust valves to run on the loose side but I am unsure of the intake side. I'm thinking I need to change the 0.011" closer to the middle of spec but unsure of the others.
Any feedback would be appreciated, cheers
Middle of the spec is preferable, but if you're going to be off a little one way or the other, it's better to be looser than tighter because valve clearances usually tighten over time.
Thank you, I found I can use some of the exhaust shims to get the intake clearance closer to middle of spec so I'll try that this afternoon cheers
@@sammanning9155 Ok, good luck.
Very good thank
Thanks and you're welcome.
18:45 ehm? Misspoke?
Don't understand. Misspoke about what at 18:45?
Hi Timmy, have you by any chance done a valve adjustment for 22RE? Thks..jc
Not yet, but I know I will one day.
@@TimmyTheToolman ok, thks..jc
Are the 5VZfe engines capable of getting valve adjustments to? I’f so, A video potentially in the future?
Yes, you can adjust the valves on a 5VZ-FE engine. A future video will happen at some point.
Timmy The Toolman If you need a victim, i mean a volunteer. I just would need to know all the parts I’ll need to buy. Thanks for the video on this I-4 you and Jordan are very precise.
@@ndeeeed We'll let you know if we need a Guinea pig for this job. For now though we don't have plans to do it any time soon. Thanks for the offer though. We appreciate it.
Wat would be a fair price for a 3rd gen 4runner tranny replacement ?
Depends on a lot of things. What area of the country you're in. Labor rates will vary depending where you live. In the California Bay Area where I live, labor rates are very high, $150-200/hour. Whether you're using a remanufactured or used transmission for the swap. A Toyota remanufactured trans will run you around $2500. Whether you're using a private shop or the dealership. Dealership labor rates are usually higher. We have a 3 Part Video Series for a transmission replacement. You could save quite a bit of money doing it yourself.
cant you just buy all new shims at the appropriate spec and replace them instead of doing all this work
I don't understand your question. All the work we show is necessary. You check the valve clearances and you exchange shims for any valves that are out of spec. Valve clearances change as the engine ages, usually by tightening up.
@@TimmyTheToolman Don't worry, I'm the one that doesn't properly understand. xD''
@@pyrathian Ok, carry on.
@@TimmyTheToolman I'm not sure if you'll see this, but my 3.4 is making a knocking noise! I posted a video here
ua-cam.com/video/gQC_jyDWQYc/v-deo.html
Do you think I can lift the engine up and replace rod bearings through the bottom? I haven't really seen any videos on this kind of thing on 3.4's. Money is a factor which is why I was hoping this would work vs changing / rebuilding the motor
@@pyrathian You could do the work yourself. How you go about doing it, I'm not sure. I've never tried to replace rod bearings. If I were to attempt something like this, I'd get the engine completely out and on a stand to do the work.
Would the valve lash clearance for a 5vz-fe 3.4l be the same ??
Don't know. You'd have to reference the factory service manual to find out. We haven't performed a valve adjustment on a 5VZ-FE engine yet.
Awesome detail on valve adjustment brother Tim! Nice chart by the way. Appreciate your extra efforts in replacing a shim for a great visual, thanks!!
Thanks Jake. I was lucky to have Jordan for this video because he was the one with the experience with checking the valve clearances and replacing the shims. We are probably going to team up and do a valve clearance check and adjustment on my 2000 with the V6.
Hi Timmy thanks for the video and thank you Jordan for showing how it’s done! I have a few questions for you Timmy, is the torque spec for the valve cover and spark plugs the same for the 2rz-fe? The Haynes repair manual I have for my Tacoma says “Not available; tighten securely, but do not overtighten”
Don't know the torque value for the valve covers and spark plugs for the 2RZ-FE engine. The spark plug specs I've seen on Toyota motors has either been 13 ft-lbs or 14 ft-lbs and I bet the 2RZ would be the same. I've seen different values for valve cover bolts on Toyota engines so I don't want to steer you wrong and guess. You might just have to go by feel for the valve cover bolts and use your best judgement. If they are a small bolt, use a ratchet with a short handle or choke up on a longer handle ratchet. The key is to tighten them down equally and slowly. I think you'll be fine going by feel if you've been turning wrenches for a while and understand mechanical advantage.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for the advice Timmy!
@@caliaska4670 You're welcome.
Tnx.
Yw
tengo una halux motor 3RZ lo mande hacer el motor le mote la bocina de balanciadores arme y de repente se me partio el tensor de la cadena y el tenso daño el senso de sigueñal lo compre y lo volvi a montar me volvio a pasar lo mismo
We don't speak or write Spanish. I used a Spanish translator and I understand you are having issues with your timing chain tensioner breaking. We have limited knowledge and experience working on these motors so we don't have an answer for why this is happening. A Toyota forum might be your best bet for asking this question like T4R.org but this is an English speaking site. If you ask your question in English, maybe somebody can help you figure out your problem. Good luck.
New answer in “I have a 3RZ halux motor, I sent it to make the motor nickel the horn of the balancer assemble and suddenly the chain tensioner broke and the tense damage the signal sensor bought it and reassembled it, I returned to pass the same
Ive learned a lot, thanks guys.. awesome..
Hey Jefferson, Great to hear you gained some knowledge from our video. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman i have a problem same with my nissan sentra b14, GA16DE engine, can you help me? Please
@@jeffersonbancolita6787 I'm not familiar with Nissans but what's the issue?
@@TimmyTheToolman tapping sound, its also has a valve shims, do you think the problem is hight clearance?
@@jeffersonbancolita6787 It could very well be an issue with valve clearances. Engines with hydraulic lifters can make a tapping noise as well, but with this type of shim and bucket system with this engine and the Toyota 3.4 liter V6, they don't have lifters. So, a valve adjustment may very well get rid of the tapping sound for you but I think it might be more a situation of too tight of clearances. From what I learned from Jordan and others, it seems the tolerances end up tightening up, mainly the exhaust valves, rather than loosening up because the valves and valve seats wear allowing a gap to occur between the valve and valve seat which can ultimately cause you to burn up a valve. Basically, with the exhaust valve not fully closing, it's becoming more exposed to the combustion (power stroke) of the cylinder and I think the valve and valve seat weren't made to handle this type of exposure to heat and compression. I guess there's only one way to find out and that's with you pulling the valve covers off and checking the valve clearances with some feeler gauges. Maybe you can find a helpful write-up or video to follow.
Bls help
What does "BLS" stand for?
can you use used shims? the dealerships want an arm and a leg. I pulled all my shims from a pic n pull can I use them? The dealership uses used ones
Yes, you can use used shims.
@@TimmyTheToolman any trick to em? Or can I just wipe em clean and use them
@@Headfirst-M80 Just clean them up with some brake cleaner, and maybe a brass brush.
41:49 why do you say that valves tighten during use? Intuition is that the clearance would increase as the cam lobe wears the shim down.
Hey Ryan, it didn't make much sense to me at first either. I think the shims are made of such a hard steel, the cam lobes aren't really doing much to wear the shims down. But, valve clearances will get tighter as the seats and valves wear. As wear happens, the valve seats farther and farther into the seat, using up the valve clearances. I hope that makes sense of how the valve clearance can reduce over time,
@@TimmyTheToolman yep that makes sense to me, thanks for clarifying.
Where did you get the new shims from?
You can buy them from your local dealer or from an online Toyota parts seller.
@@TimmyTheToolman cool thanks for the reply!
@@nicolaswilliams9060 No problem.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks for the 9 thumbs up.
hi,, very impressed with your videos in general.
im having 3rzfe with cracked cyl-head, new cyl-head i acquired is the new type which having 4-port intake side while old one was an 8-port one.
i did my homework technically and verified that all components are compatible with my truck in terms of camshaft sensor .. etc until balancer-shaft.
only major difference is the intake camshaft timing angles which are:
old oem: open at 5° and closes at 45°
new one: open at 2° and closes at 48°
exhaust didn't change: both old+new are the same opening at 42° and closing at 2°.
previous factory overlap was 7° while current is 5°.
my old factory is mfg'd 1995-1999 while the new head with 4-ports + new timing configuration is adopted 2000-2004.
my question im i running into any problem / rough idle?
new cylinderhead is beyond return now and i just finished rebuilding the engine and didn't start it yet since dont want any hesitation + lean / rich mixes during the break-in period.
very much appreciated and thanks in advance.
1998 MTM 4X4 4Runner just passed 300k+ miles two months ago.
Your issue and question is above my pay grade. I wish I could help you out with this but my knowledge of this engine is fairly limited. This might be a better question for a Toyota forum or a shop that rebuilds these engines. I just don't know if a shop is going to spend the time on the phone with you to answer your question when they know they're not going to be selling you anything.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for your response. will see what happens when start it up,, if faced rough idle then will shut it off and put the old camshaft for intake.
i know nobody in the whole country + Toyota dealer who ever heard about this, im having contacts there but with no clue while im just a DIY guy.
anyway will let you know what happens of you are interested.
cheers..!
@@TheDesertegal7 Ok, good luck. Hope it works out for you.
Hello Timmy, just to update you of the situation, luckily engine runs smooth as before if not better.. idle is perfect,, im still in breakin period as replaced rod bearing and all pistions rings.
i drove it with new 4-port head but with the 8-port intake manifold with no leaks. yesterday installed a 4-port intake just to be able to feel completely fine.
Cheers, Samir
@@TheDesertegal7 That's good to hear. Sounds like it worked out.
Hey man I have a question for you
I am working on a 1998 Toyota Tacoma 2.7L manual transmission, the truck has a miss fire on cyl # 4 , checked coils and they are good, injectors are brand new ( genuine) spark plugs as well
Recently I did the head job cause head gasket blown recently, I have to mention that a year ago somebody else did the head job without using the service bolt on the exhaust cam so it ended up tightening the exhaust valves a lot so I adjusted the valves and still have the miss fire, spark plug wires are good (tested them) egr valve tested , new fuel filter , ecm is good, tested the power from injector connector also good.
I am running out of ideas if you have had a similar issue in the past with a Toyota please share some tips, thanks in advance
Hey Hector, have you confirmed the compression is good for the #4 cylinder? Is the engine acting like it's running on 3 cylinders or is it just a CEL code that won't go away?
@@TimmyTheToolman compression is good , I did a leak down test yesterday and it was good to well it had like 7 percent if leak but in my opinion not enough to cause a missfire
Yeah it's running on 3 cyl
After the first start right after the head job it gave cyl 3 and 4
Switched injector and it gave cyl 1 and 2 So I put 2 new fuel injectors in 1 and 2 and then the missfire went back to cyl 4 after I performed the adjustment ran good for a few minutes and the it started missing again
@@crissy7503 Something is definitely not adding up. If the compression and leak down test resulted in no red flags, it sounds like it has to be electrical in nature or a problem with fuel delivery. When you did the leak down and compression tests, were all the spark plugs out? I know sometimes there can be a crack in the head between cylinders and the cylinder is loosing pressure to the neighboring cylinder. What about the spark plug wires? Are those new as well? Did you double check the wires are connected to the right cylinders?
@@TimmyTheToolman well the head was resurfaced 2 weeks ago and wires are new as well
I going to double check all the electrical system and see what I found
Thanks for responding man I really appreciate it
@@crissy7503 Ok, hope you can figure it out.
Be careful remove and install shim you don't want to let it go in to oil pan and somewhere stuck
I'm pretty sure the oil paths from the head to the block are smaller than the shim so it would be impossible for shim to get stuck somewhere.
@@TimmyTheToolman I was about to say the same thing . .. lol
How much will this run me if I decide to take it to a shop? I just dont have the time or tools. Truck has 240xxx miles I wana check/adjust valves, thx
No clue what a shop would charge. it's very dependent on the area of the country you are in and whether you choose an independent shop or dealership. Expensive areas of the country like the California Bay Area where I live has labor rates anywhere from around $125/hour to $200/hour. My local dealer charges $200/hour. Dealerships in general charge more for labor than independent shops. So, you're just going to have to call around and get some quotes from shops in your area.
Timmy The Toolman I live in socal (LA) yeah I’ll call around on Monday thank you.
@@yotagang3705 Let Yelp help you choose an honest and competent shop. I would steer clear of dealerships because they will be the most expensive and there's no guarantee they will put a mechanic on the job that's any better than you will find at an independent shop. A independent shop that specializes in Toyotas or Japanese vehicles will most likely be your best bet. Good luck!
Did you ever find out how much it costs, I’m curious too. Thanks!
@@EulogizingSleep I think if I remember correctly it was around 200$. Didnt fix my rough idle but they have to be adjusted/checked for peace of mind, bought truck at 216xxx
I have tacoma 95 2.4l and I have exhaust burn valve how replacement
If you have a burnt valve you have to remove the head off the engine and replace it. It would be probably be best just to get the whole head reconditioned or buy one that's ready to go.
Thanks this weekend I gonna see the guy on the shop and see what wappen cause almost year ago he fix overheating change head gasket and see about warranty
When installing the timing chain tensioner under the distributor do I have to have the tensioner in the open or closed position timmythetoolman
You want the tensioner in the retracted position until you verified you got your belt on correctly by double-checking the timing marks. Then you pull the pin on the tensioner and put your motor back together.
Timmy The Toolman ok. thanks timmy
@@marcusmanuel4041 You're welcome Marcus. Good luck getting everything put back together.
Great video thank you
Thanks Oscar and you're very welcome.
2 sanity checks...haha
Yep, we don't want to go insane in the membrane.
@@TimmyTheToolman great video.
Hey Tim. Just to clarify, does the wedge tool go in the gap between the bucket and the shim? If so, how much force does it take to wedge it in?
You have the two tools. The first tool compresses the bucket and shim downward. With it compressed, you get the holder tool in between the edge of the bucket and the cam. It's not easy and it can pop out. The tool needs to be just capturing the edge of the bucket and not any of the shim. With the tool in place holding the bucket down, now you can attempt to free the shim from the bucket. I hope that clarifies how to use the tools.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the reply, that did clarify things. If it does pop out while you have the shim removed, how do you depress the bucket?
@@zp9814 You can use the compression tool to catch the edge of the bucket and compress it. Another option is having a friend push down the bucket with a large flat blade screwdriver while you get the holder tool in position.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks for the help and for the video! Hopefully I don’t have too many out of spec at 142,000 miles.
You're welcome. Good luck with the job.