*Be sure to read this comment and also read the video description for helpful information.* ** Here's some additional information about the IAC valve that a helpful member put together on T4R.org. His name is Leon and he owns the Spiker Engineering company that makes products for Toyota SUVs and Trucks like the hood struts. Leon discovered after cleaning his IAC, his idle would climb as the engine temp increased rather than drop like it should. After dissecting the IAC to better understand how the mechanism works, he finally discovered the culprit. Some of the carbon he was cleaning off the IAC trap door got pushed rather than cleaned off the door, and where it got pushed and dried hindered the door from fully closing. The following is what Leon reported: *"So what happened was that my q-tip cleaning dissolved the carbon, but the carbon then reconstituted itself on a different portion of the barrel, and once it dried, it prevented the barrel from closing. Without taking the IAC apart, I couldn't rotate the barrel far enough to notice this, but the actuator didn't have enough torque to overcome the resistance."* So, the take-away is do a thorough cleaning of the IAC if you're going to do it. Because of Leon's experience, his take-away is to not mess with the IAC unless you're having an issue with it. My opinion is I still think cleaning the IAC is a good preventative maintenance thing to do, because even though Leon had a bad result after cleaning it which inspired him to purchase a new one, not cleaning it could allow enough carbon to eventually cause the IAC trap door to become gummed up and not open and close properly. Here's a link to the thread: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/310151-solved-high-idle-increases-coolant-temp-iac-3.html
Last question can I vacuum leak cause a rich condition I did a smoke test and found my oil cap closed but smoke was coming out so I've flip the gasket seal and so far seemed to be OK I now have p1093 pending the no light on
Timmy. Why do you think my 99 4Runner 3.4 mostly when it’s bitter cold (15f) and only every once in a great while when it isn’t so cold (50f) will sputter and sometimes stall until it warms up a bit?
@@4bangerlove Maybe the IAC valve is sticking a bit not giving the engine the air it needs. Both my 98 and 00 do this too and when I give it some throttle response, it corrects itself.
I am blown away with your video technique and knowledge on this motor. Hard to find smart people like you that can do both jobs with 10 stars. Thanks for making this video.
I always learn something from Timmy. I had never owned a 4R and mine had a LOT of deferred maintenance and problems. I used the FSM and Tim's videos and have fixed all of the problems without any mistakes. If you do exactly what he says you will be successful.
great job !!!! When you order the IAC valve gasket, you may want to also order a new set of screws. It is almost guaranteed the old ones will strip while removing them. The screws were stripped even though I used a JIS (Japan Industry Standard) screwdriver. You may purchase bolts instead from Auto Zone, Lowes, or other hardware stores. The size is M5-0.8 x 16 mm
I've removed IAC valves off both of my 3rd Gen 4runners now. By clamping the throttle body in a bench vice, using a JIS screwdriver and applying sufficient downward pressure on the screws, I came nowhere close to stripping one of the heads of the screws. The key is having a screwdriver that fits the screw head well and using ample downward pressure before trying to break them free. That's at least been my experience. But, good for people to know the size screws in case they do strip one or more of their screws.
We appreciate the kind words. I think we should have attracted more subscribers too based off the quality of our content but that's not the case. Plenty of people use our videos, but only a small percentage subscribes. Anyway, thanks for taking to time to comment.
Thanks for another great video! I bought my '98 Limited 22 years ago and happened across your channel about a year and a half ago. 138,000 km and everything was still stock except for the BF Goodrich AT's. Was planning on selling the 4Runner rather than buy new tires, fix the sagging rear end and weak rear hatch struts... but your channel changed everything. Many mods and upgrades have been made since then and I added the supercharger (your video was the push I needed) with URD 7th injector 9 months ago to great affect. A week after it was installed however I had a "episode" when after being parked in the hot sun for 2 hours, the engine had a hard time starting. Never had a problem starting before ever! After about 15 minutes it finally was running but sputtering badly. I would get 50 yards down the road and the engine would die. This continued for two blocks before it wouldn't start anymore. Towed it home and left in the garage for 36 hours. In the cool confines of the garage, it started first crank like normal. Noticed a pile of black soot below the tailpipe. No problems last fall, winter and spring until last week... first hot day this COVID season and after 20 minutes at the lumber store sitting in the sun, the engine just couldn't catch. Cranked fine but no ignition. Left it in the parking lot and came back 24 hours later... another hot day...still no start. Towed it home left it outside another 24 hours and wouldn't start in the sun. 12 hours later at 7:00AM ( a cool morning), started up first crank like nothing was wrong. OBD2 reader using torquepro app (wonder where I got that idea) showed no codes now, pending, or in storage. Checked T4R.ORG and most common problem identified for my symptoms was ... IAC! Other possibilities are fuel pump, fuel filter (will install Wallbro pump that came with the URD injector when my gas tank is on low), fuel pressure regulator, ECU fuse, bad MAF, battery ground and starter relay. Based on your excellent explanations, I now see that the likely problem is the IAC and its associates namely... 1) the throttle position sensor (TPS), 2) coolant temperature (sensor not the STOTT thermostat I installed for the supercharger) 3) Air Conditioning(AC switch). I will proceed with testing and a "gentle" cleaning of the IAC. If this does not fix the problem will proceed to the TPS. I have a PDF of the 1996 - 2002 Factory Service Manual which I downloaded from the web but it did not have the IAC pages (SF-37) but thanks to this video all the steps to troubleshoot the IAC are documented. The TPS is page 960 (SF-31).The steps to troubleshoot the coolant temperature sensor and AC switch however, don't seem to exist in my manual. If anyone knows where to find, would be a great help. Will update on my progress.
Hey Tim, great to hear our channel inspired you to keep your 3rd Gen. Sounds like you're on the right track to diagnosing and figuring out your warm start issue. I personally like having the physical factory service manual books. If you do a search on Ebay for your year, you will most likely find the the 2 volume set for sale for a fair price. It seems the going rate is somewhere around $150. You obviously like to wrench so the books are well worth the investment. Let us know how the diagnosing goes for you. By the way, Sean will be stoked to see you are using his TEQ Tim logo. He designed that.
I was one of those whom sprayed and sprayed! Yes, some Q-tip use. Agree, don’t spray onto connector IAC. That door area was gooked up 180,000 mile 2001, when I cleaned, 3.4 Tacoma! Did this May of 2019. It’s 2020, June, now. Idle, cold start, etc. excellent! Timmy, you are the gift to us Toyota fans! Going for 300,000 plus with my 2001 Tacoma. At, 189,000.
Tim: thanks for another great video! My ‘97 was idling at 1500 rpm warm and would barely idle at startup when cold. This after sitting for several weeks while I fixed front end wreck damage. Your video helped immensely because you provided testing procedures to verify if the valve is good. So useful since these valves aren’t cheap and buying a new one may not be necessary. I would add that it’s not a good idea to try and reuse the old IAC gasket. Ask me how I know! Anyway, thanks again for taking the time!
You're welcome Frank. Great to hear you found our video helpful. Yes, OEM IAC valves are very expensive so you want to be sure it's bad before dropping the coin on one. Thanks for the comment and Happy Wrenching!
Tim, thank you again for your great videos, I've had a rough idle condition on my 4Runner for almost two months now and I changed out the IAC valve yesterday and vehicle runs great!!
@@TimmyTheToolman my mechanic did an air intake induction cleaning with BG mist with two cans of spray and the rough idle was gone. The idle rpm is steady at 750 instead of running below 650. Do I still need to replace the IAC valve?
Thank you! I seriously appreciate everything!!!! The explanation was AMAZING!!!! Thank you for taking the time to make this video so that us unknowledgeable auto DIYers can save money lol
You're very welcome. Using the word "Amazing" is a nice compliment to read and we appreciate it very much. Just like you thanked us for taking the time to make this video, we thank you for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you for sharing this very detailed video. I followed all the steps to diagnose my problem and my truck runs like new now. You just saved me 260 bucks! Thank you sir for taking the time to educate us.
Great vid again Tim! You are absolutely right about just using a q-tip with cleaner on it to clean the valve but for the wrong reason. The coils almost never go bad on these as they are sealed in plastic so you can't short them out. However, there are two unsealed mini ball bearings on either side of the valve "gates" and when you wash the IAC out with cleaner, you wash out all the grease in those two ball bearings. Eventually the moisture gets to them and they seize up. This also happens over time on its own as the grease dries up. My other comment is that the green coil assembly you took off is "clocked" relative to the valve's body. It has up to 5deg of adjustment either way and you have to mark where it was before you take it apart otherwise your rpms are going to be slightly off. I don't recommend trying to service these if you are having IAC caused idle issues because the crappy bearings they put in these are usually shot and very difficult to replace as it takes a special puller and careful documentation to get these valves disassembled and reassembled.
Thanks for sharing all this information Jacob. It's good to know about the lubrication of the ball bearings for the valve door. I did spray a bunch of cleaner in there so I guess time will tell if my valve door seizes up. I am a little confused with your statement about the clocking of the coil assembly. From what I could see, there was no adjustment to this. The coil assembly slides on and you have to have the screw holes lined up. The slightest turn off center would mean the screw holes wouldn't line up. But, in any event, I got the coil assembly back on and my idle is acting normal. I sealed the screw heads with some Toyota FIPG. I'm guessing that sealant is to help prevent the screws from coming loose? That's the only thing that makes sense to me. Also, I noticed the coil assembly is magnetized so maybe another possibility is that sealant blocks the magnetization the screws will have?
If you take off the coil assembly and clean off all the fipg inside you will see that the screw holes in the coil are slotted, not circular to give some adjustment. If you don't clean it off inside the holes, it should line back up where it was as in your case. The fipg on top of the screws is the extra that squeezed out when they sealed the coils to the valve's body.
@@jacobs2309 Ah, I see. That makes sense. That's probably why I got it back in the same spot because I didn't mess with the sealant on the inside. Thanks for the information.
No problem. I made my own puller and completely disassembled this valve because it's 200+ from toyota now. The bearing on the small end that is the most exposed to oil vapor and moisture can be changed, but it's a real pita. Everything on these things is clocked in a precise position from the factory and needs to go back exactly the way it was. Don't recommend for the average diyer but you can save $200 by just cleaning it and replacing that $5 bearing.
Thanks Timmy! Recently rebuilt my 3.4 in a 96 T-100. While I was cleaning the throttle body/IAC I noticed the bypass tube had a fair amount of rtv silicone in the body cavity, almost intentionally placed, in the IAC bypass port. Surprised me when it popped out and made me curious as I was not having any idling issues to that point. I cleaned the throttle body due to excessive blow-by from many miles. The rebuild has been a success and I'm happy to refer to your videos for help.
Same here, but i put a new oem iac about 6 months ago and check engine p0505 came back up and dont have an air leak anywhere. Im gonna check that air hose that goes underneath iac
I've done this, but I believe I need to do it again. I have performed everything under the sun to fix a recurring P0120 problem. I'm looking to re-look at the IAC again and cleaning the TB
@@JJ-rb3ss JC, yup just had enough time last weekend to do that too. I'm going to do everything over again. I skipped a few steps that TTT did here on the IAC, but did the open/close testing, which is the most important test.
Once again, another great video. Very thorough and knowledge filled. One thing I've always done when replacing the metal throttle body gasket, is to Dremel out the flat spot on the front so it's a full circle. I believe that this is how the TRD throttle body gaskets come when you have a supercharger.
Thanks. We're glad you like the video. You are correct that the TRD supercharger throttle body gasket has a full circle. The Toyota engineers had to have a reason for blocking part of the air flow to the upper plenum but it's sounding like the reason wasn't as important as they thought it was since you're running it like you have a supercharger on your engine and haven't experienced any ill effects.
I today removed and replace my throttle body gasket.i cleaned the throttle body for the first time,not good.i am glad with your help I tackled this job alone.i do feel great for DIY,thanks Timmy
Just wanted to thank you one more time! I replaced the IAC valve on my 2002 Tacoma SR5 PreRunner today following your video as I did the work. There were only a couple of minor differences between yours and mine. I still failed my smog test though because I didn't drive the vehicle long enough after the job, resulting in an OBII failure. I was told to drive it about 40 miles and then bring it back for a free re-test. Thanks again!
You're welcome again Chuck. Here's a tip for knowing if your rig is ready for a smog check. You can either buy a scan gauge tool that will let you know all your system monitors are reset and ready or you can get an OBD II reader that sends info to a phone app like Torque Pro. Then you won't have to guess if your vehicle is ready for a smog test. I use to use the Torque Pro phone app to monitor things but I switched to using a Scan Gauge. Here's a link for you: amzn.to/2QTlz6z
Did the exact same thing last weekend with my 98. I spent about an hour cleaning and cleaning. since it was already removed I really gave it a go. I kept the circuit/plug on top so the throttle body fluid didn't spill on it. She throttles at 750.
I cleaned mine in a ziploc bag with detergent submerged in my ultrasonic cleaner and it worked great. I removed the coil motor first and also the bimetallic spring + range plate + plastic stopper. I wouldn't have wanted to try it without removing the coil motor.
Your legend mate thank you for the video i done mine yesterday and now I'm happy with my prado thank you so much from Sydney Australia you are a life saver 🙏❤
Great video. I had high idle after replacing engine with jdm motor and i had done exactly as you said not to do . I cleaned throttle body cleaner with iacv upside down before installing. All the junk went into iacv. Removed it and cleaned iacv and she purrs like a kitten!! Thx Timmy
Your Videos are Gold. I’ve used so many of them to fix my 4Runner. I credit you as the only reason it’s still alive as my daily driver, and boat puller. I have a 98 SR5. It has the sputter stumble at 3k rpm I’m sure you’ve heard of. I put factory (two prong plugs from the dealer) trying to correct that. Afterwards, it idles beautifully but at operating temperature it intermittently stalls at idle. I occasionally get surging at idle but most of the time it just cuts off. I tried replacing vac lines, I pulled the Throttle body and cleaned it thoroughly as well as the MAF and the iac. IAC was BAD carbon buildup, stalactite s. I cleaned it sparkly with tb cleaner and cutips. Tested with a battery and it seems to open and close fine. None of this solved my problem. resistance was in spec, (I didn’t write down the numbers) for both IAC and TPS. IAC is original and TPS is aftermarket. Should I trust the tests, and keep checking other things? Seems 90% of time the stalling when warm issue is fixed with new OEM IAC. Oh, and my 3k rpm issue is still there too, just not as critical, or maybe the same?
Hey Keith, we're happy to know our videos have helped you out a lot. I'm not a fan of aftermarket sensors unless it's your only option because Toyota stopped making it. That aftermarket TPS could be your issue. Maybe you could get lucky and you can find a used one at a PicknPull yard. Also, there's a guy in Washington that parts out 3rd and 4th Gen 4runners and I bet he could sell you a used one so you're not out so much money to see if the TPS is the culprit. The guy's name is Josh Young and his company name is PNW 4runner Connection. Contact him via Facebook if you want to see if he can sell you a used TPS. Tell him I referred you. He's a good guy and his prices are fair.
@@TimmyTheToolman I wanted to write a quick follow up on this in case someone else is as frustrated as I was. I purchased both the IAC and the TPS as every post and video I found for my symptoms led me to those items. I got OEM from a Toyota dealer on a Black Friday deal (I didn’t know dealers did that). I replaced the TPS first since mine was not OEM and when that didn’t solve the loud (like it can’t draw air) noise, nor the stumble and stall issue. I replaced the IAC. It still didn’t solve my problem. I had noticed that performance had slipped on my CS144 it wasn’t producing like it had been. So, I drove around until the car was operating temp, and stalling at every stop. Then I unplugged the alternator (new back in March/April (8 months)) and drove around. Car idled perfectly, quiet and smooth and did not stall or even hiccup 1x, drove about 20 minutes without the alternator. Pulled back in the driveway, connected the alternator back up and instantly the sucking noise was back, the hard idle, immediately stumbled and stalled out. I replaced the alt with a reman Delco CS144 from the ACDelco store on Amazon and it is running great now. I don’t know if the alternator was sending micro-bursts or micro-dips, but only at the low idle of a warm engine, but it sure made my 4Runner crazy and had me thinking I was too.
HI Timmy. Ran my eye over the throttle body after watching the video. Yet to progress to cleaning it but I checked the 3 cables while there and they all had excess slack esp. The throttle and transmission kick down ones. I adjusted them and wow what a difference. No throttle lag and transmission shifts are perfect. Gees I learn so much from your channel, thank you. Sic moustache BTW. Another happy Prado here in Australia.
Hey Andrew, that great the cable adjustments worked out well for you. This is something I learned from the Toyota forums around 4-5 years ago. When we're shooting videos, I try to remember associated things I can mention as we're doing the job like the cable adjustments and letting people know that guys have accidentally hooked up one of the coolant lines to the air assist line. Sometimes I wonder if people appreciate the extra blabbing I do when shooting a video or are they annoyed because they just want me to stop talking and get on with the next step in the job. Good to know my extra blabbing is appreciated. It's great to read that you're learning a lot from our channel. The internet and more specifically UA-cam is allowing us to reach anyone in the world with an internet connection with the videos we make. You're very welcome my Australian Mate! Glad you like the stache. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman I like the videos just the way they are. Not being a mechanic, I find fine points of detail can turn a job I do from being OK to frustrating real quick. You guys cover the points off so it makes life a lot easier. Plus the videos often tell a story, a sort of mini adventure because you speak about what you're doing as you go. The manual hub swaps you did with Jordan are great to watch for example. Anything with press work is really interesting I find. All the best to you.
@@andrewb2326 Thanks Andrew. That's good to hear. We figured most people would appreciate the detail we offer. I do know that there are experienced mechanics and DIYers that just want to see a video to get an idea of what is entailed to do the job and they'd rather see an abridged version. When Sean and I started this channel. we agreed we didn't want to leave anyone lost by not showing enough detail or skipping a crucial step. One of the things you read about what makes videos appealing is a shorter length, like no longer than say 20 minutes because people have short attention spans. I can tell some Automotive Channel UA-camrs follow this rule and never upload a really long video or they break it up into several videos. We have uploaded many videos that are an hour long and some over an hour. We have also broken up longer jobs into several parts, like our transmission replacement video, but all 3 parts are fairly long. My thinking is this, if people want help to do a job, they will sit through our video no matter how long it is and maybe watch it several times to make sure they got a good handle on what the job entails. I guess automotive videos do have entertainment appeal and people will watch just because they are interested in the subject matter and have no plans on doing the job, and maybe in that case, shorter videos seem more appealing. I guess what I'm trying to say is we aren't scared to post long videos. What makes our channel much different than a high percentage of other automotive channels is the detail we offer. I think it's the main reason why people watch our videos and subscribe to our channel. Anyway, I appreciate your comments Andrew. Happy Wrenching!
I want to share some other ideas. My Hyundai Santa Fe (manual) has been sitting for a year. Now when I start it up, it stalls immediately unless I keep the gas pedal pressed a little. I used a trick from FordTechMakuloco's video and stuck a thin shim under the throttle cable lever thing to prevent it from closing all the way. Genius trick and it worked. Then I tried pushing my AC button. Sure enough the rpm went way down, almost stalling. I thought I could push the AC on/off a few times to kind of work the valve unstuck (remember, it's been sitting for a long time so maybe it got stuck slightly by dried carbon that solidified around it). It didn't work. And as soon as I removed the shim, the engine stalled. That's proof enough for me that this valve is likely the problem.
Yep, your engine relies on the IAC valve to open under idling and deceleration situations so it can get the air it needs to create the air/fuel mixture required to run. Sounds like a bad IAC valve to me.
Yup smoked out the parking lot... idle is silk smooth, engine is more responsive... thank you. Definitely a to do periodically... learned a lot from ur vids... much appreciation... whish i could have a beer w u
Update... 2 days later the intermittent high idle returned... Went through the process, iac interior and flap definitely needed carbon buildup cleaning... followed the step by step process with lots of q-tips & spray... result- solid 750 rpms at idle. Thank you.
Super thorough step-by-step procedure, and the basic mechanics of the job should translate well to my own (1997 Acura TL 3.2L) whip, which threw a P0505 code, and is behaving unruly at idle. Thanks guys. -Stevie P/S "Good enough for government work." That cracked me up, as I have never heard that phrase uttered from others than myself. 😂
You've very welcome. Hope you can get your idle fixed Stevie. I've been saying good enough for government work for almost 30 years. I've worked for local government for 29 years. One more year and I'm retiring.
I really enjoy the level of detail you include that a lot of the other repair videos gloss over. I found that wire loom retainer like the one that you released in the beginning of the disassembly at 14:28 by squeezing with a pair of needle nose pliers can be released by using an 11mm socket to squeeze the pins of the retainer and it's less likely to mangle the plastic by squeezing too hard.
Thanks Steve. Good to hear you appreciate the detail we offer in our videos. I like your socket trick for those types of clips. I'm going to try that out. Happy Wrenching!
Early model IAC control solenoids were set at a dimension of 1 1/8” with a spring set manually . Failed twice in two weeks , returned to NAPA this time they were nice enough to exchange it with the non adjustable upgraded version ! They wanted to deplete the defective stock first ! How nice of them !
...another outstanding video Tim....really been needing to do this on my 2000 4Runner to correct a rough and erratic rpm idle... now I have the confidence to give it a try...thanks again for posting...and keep 'em coming...
Before taking the throttle body off: Try removing the 3- hoses and spraying carb cleaner into the IAC valve, and moving the pin (2 screws and cap) back and forth and letting it sit over night....worked for me!
If you are working on an older Toyota, you can usually find the factory service books for your year and model for sale on Ebay. If you have a newer Toyota model or can't find the books for your older model, you can access all the information you need on the Toyota Tech Info website. You can buy a 2-day membership for $25 and download as much information as you want. techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&goto=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2Fagent%2Fcustom-login-response%3Fstate%3Dms9aH4QHu4Ft6KCd-YPY7kh-jcQ&original_request_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2F
Nice comment about not connecting the coolant hose to the air inlet. I did and holy shit! It ran but after a few seconds it leaked coolant and blew lots of steam out of the exhaust. Fixed my mistake and took it for a 7 mile drive. The only effect seemed to be an increase in the idle speed in neutral to about 1500 rpm from what it was before about 1200. Removed the IAC valve, disassembled it and found it was clean. I guess it had been steam cleaned(: On reinstall I now get about 1200 rpm in neutral. It is an aftermarket IAC. Engine with 311,500 miles. I think I will try new aftermarket IAC.
Great video! I learned some of this the hard way on my '95 Avalon (1MZFE) which has a very similar throttle body. I had to remove the intake manifold to replace the knock sensor harness. While I was at it I did a lot cleaning of the throttle body, plenum, and intake manifold ports and replaced all the. After I had that whole job done, it ran fine but I had a very high idle. From your video and others I realized it was probably the IAC valve. I think carbon and gunk got into the IAC when I cleaned out the throttle body and butterfly without turning it upside down, or covering that IAC intake port. Sure enough, after cleaning out the IAC (in position without removing throttle body), and letting lots of cleaner flow out the air hose nipple, my idle returned to a perfect 750-800 RPM when warmed up. Hoping it stays that way. If not, I'll remove the throttle body and do the full cleaning. Now I know how. Thanks again. P.S. Just read your exchange with @jacobs2309 about the throttle body spray dissolving the grease out of the bearings. As I did it the simple (stupid) way of just spraying the cleaner in there, perhaps I will pay later as those bearings seize up. Oh well, at least I'll know what to suspect in the future.
@@agateenchantmentrockwizard5969 Thanks. Lots of UA-camrs think they have to follow the golden rule of only putting out short videos because that's what the experts say to do. We get it, people have short attention spans and lack patience. Oh well, that's their problem. We make videos as detailed and as long as they need to be to accurately deliver the information to our viewers. People can always fast forward through material they don't need. There's plenty of people that hate how long our videos are. I just tell them to find another UA-camr that covers the subject matter, and when they get lost and confused, come on back to us for the answers. We aren't perfect and definitely don't know it all, but we try hard to give people the best and most detailed video we can at the time we are shooting it. Quite often there are updates of better information and techniques and we let people know about this either in the video description or a pinned comment. Thanks again for supporting what we do. We're here to help people and comments like yours is what helps motivate us to keep doing it.. it's quite a bit of work without much monetary gain. Our favorite form of payment is hearing people appreciate our efforts. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman I so totally understand our rockhounding channel we run very similarly and our growing subscriber base shows people appreciate our time and attention. I completely agree on a video's length, it takes what it takes to get the point across on any subject. On my 4Runner it's having low idle (after warm up). During the startup shes great no issues but after she's completely warmed up her idle is 700 or less and runs a bit rough but just a bit, no stalling. I've checked for vacuum leaks and I haven't found any yet. She just had a complete top end rebuild by a very skilled mechanic but he's unavailable to ask. Any ideas 💡?
@@agateenchantmentrockwizard5969 I'd double-check the timing. You could do it with a timing light or by removing the upper timing cover so you can see the cam pulleys. To remove the upper cover, slide the radiator hose clamp back on the hose to give you room to pull the cover towards the radiator. Put the crank pulley timing mark lined up with the "0" and then check to see the cam pulley timing marks line up with their respective timing marks on the cover behind them. If they aren't lined up, give the crank pulley one more full revolution and then check again. For every two revolutions of the crank pulley, the cams turn 1 revolution.
Your attention to detail and your step-by-step instructions were extremely helpful you explain things very well thank you especially for that new Jis screwdriver info I never knew about 👍🏼
Tim, Thank you for all your videos. I have a 2000 4runner with 300k miles and really enjoy the truck and your videos. I recently replaced the timing belt, had all injectors cleaned and flow testing performed, replaced the fuel pressure regulator while it was apart along with a new IAC and throttle position sensor, plugs wires, gaskets, and coil packs. All Toyota parts since I have had issues using aftermarket parts not communicating right with the computer or gauges. I have an issue with long cranks though when the engine is warm or hot. It starts immediately when it is cold or right after running. The problem is when it sits for 30 minutes to a few hours. It seems like it is flooding. If I press down the gas pedal a little it seems like it pops off. The IAC tested fine using your video, but I decided to replace it anyway thinking just maybe this was the issue anyway and who knows with 300k miles wouldn't hurt. About a year ago, I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit as well because I was having the issue with the sending unit per the TSB. I'm really at a loss? What do you think might be worth replacing or checking? I don't think there is anything else I missed. Thanks again for your videos. Looking forward to your reply when you get the opportunity. Best regards, Mark
Hey Mark, glad you like our videos. Your problem sounds like a difficult one to figure out. You already addressed the things I would have thought as the culprit. I did a little research just now and one guy realized he had a bad MAF which caused the same symptoms you're experiencing, a hard start when warm. Maybe test and clean the MAF and see where that gets you. If it still is having a hard start after you verify it passes the ohms resistance test and you cleaned it, get the engine hot again, let it sit and then before you start it unplug the MAF. It is starts right up, but obviously gives you a CEL code for the MAF disconnected, I think that would be proof it was your problem.
Mark Cunnings. Did you ever figure out what your hard start issue was??? I have the exact problem in my sons 2002 4Runner. Replaced all injectors & fuel regulator, no help. Then new MAF & no help. Throwing lean code P0171 & now random misfire P0300. Appreciate any feedback. Happy New Year!
I need to do this on my rig as well, it's been stalling from time to time after idling low, most likely it's this. Awesome work as always Tim, thanks for the video.
Any time the T body comes off a 3.4l, i use a supercharger gasket because its the full circle not D-shaped. Doing this, and taking off the 90⁰ elbow where the airbox goes into the fender and using a K&N stock replacement air filter gives 8 extra horsepower. Port-matching the intake manifold and running 92 octane also will make the thing SCREAM
Tim - Thank you sooo much for this channel. I just picked up a 1999 Tacoma and your channel is a wealth of knowledge. Good video, great commentary. Again, THANK YOU!!!!!!
Cool. You can also use an m12 battery with a couple of mini fuses stuck in the slots and then clip to those. Also, with scan tool I was able to monitor the duty cycle of a normally functioning IAC at idle (30%) and then with a load of AC compressor or slightly turning the wheel (increased to 40%). It's a 2006 Matrix with over 2006,000 miles.
Great tutorial! i dont even own a toyota (I have a Montero) but I enjoyed it to the end. Very thorough, great video shots and you obviously know your stuff. Thank you!
Huge tip: Remove the top two studs ( M8-1.25 -- XX mm or some such) and replace with Dorman (anyone's) M8-1.25 -- YY -- you be the judge. (Use the studs to judge length.) These Flanged Bolts are available in every parts house. The labor savings are astounding. (A full hour on a Sienna plenum project. You won't have to touch the throttle body, any of its connections!) Toyota used 12mm nuts for these studs. The Dorman bolts will need 13mm sockets. Otherwise, they are identical. Once you've made the swap, you'll kick yourself that you didn't do so earlier. On my Sienna, it's best to remove the (3) studs the moment you can wiggle a Knipex pump handle pliers in between. They are then easily pulled away from the plenum... right through the throttle body. The studs only make sense back at the factory... not in your repair bay. For small hose removal, a trivial, common body tool -- with a forked end -- is dreamy for PUSHING hoses off of their connection. All hoses are best shoved off as they relax under compression from that direction. When you pull on them, you're getting the Chinese fingers effect. You're actually tightening them down around the metal tubing -- often to the point of semi-destruction. (Frayed termination, and temper -- yours.) Once you're going to this much effort, you'd be crazy to re-use gaskets. A vacuum leak, from a re-used gasket, will cause personal insanity. If you dig into the issue, the gaskets are one-time seals. They deform upon use. If rubber/ elastomeric they HARDEN. When that happens, they will not 'flow' to seal. You can easily end up with a tiny vacuum leak -- that degrades your engine -- for years. And you just can't put your finger on it. When you visit the junkyard -- always a wise idea -- you'll see how poor repairs// maintenance killed engine after engine. (Totally filthy MAF sensors at the top of the list.)
Thank you sir. Very much thank you. I took off the TB last night after cleaning the IAC valve and that did not work. So I took it off again and found the entire mechanism was seized somehow so I worked it around. The rpm before was around 1750 idle after warm up. It would shift into second gear in drive with no gas. Now it is at a cool 750. Tysm
I didn't have any luck with that Japanese screwdriver. I had better luck with a regular screwdriver, I might've used a P3. I tried a cheap IAC valve from ebay for fun, it didn't work lol. I used Standard Motor Products brand IAC valve and it worked great and was made in the USA believe it or not.
Been researching this process for my 03 Taco with a 2.7. Just cleaned the throttle body and the IAC a few hours ago, off to the mechanic tomorrow for a rough idle and hard start.
@@TimmyTheToolman i had the check engine light on for two years but the truck ran perfect. One day it wouldnt start and rough idle for a day or two and that went away for a month… SO i had the codes read from the local parts store ( there were about 5 or 6 mostly evap system and bank 1 o2 sensor) so I tested and replaced some evap parts as well as the gas filter, the check engine light went off and the idle would fluctuate when warm… acceleration felt like a wild horse in first 3 gears, not a lot of power. I saw some vids and decided before the mechanic I should do everything I can before he has a look, so I cleaned the throttle body and the ICV today. The really rough idle returned and it barely starts but the stuttering acceleration went away and the check engine light came back on. Unfortunately I didnt know how to test the ICV
@@Seajunkie I think it could be an issue with the throttle position sensor. If your throttle body has a throttle position sensor that's not replaceable, then you'd need a new throttle body. I'm interested to hear what the shop figures out.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hmmm I must hve forgotten to plug something back in and the mechanic did it for me… LOL. Back to this bucking while accelerating so Im going to delve into your suggestion… thank you!
@@TimmyTheToolman I replaced the throttle position sensor as it is accessible, unfortunately my truck still bucks when accelerating. None of this was happening before I tried to replace the solenoids/ vsv in the evap system
@@TimmyTheToolman In the last couple of years it has been a cascade of trouble codes surrounding the TPS, IAC, and MAF. I imagine my living in this dusty area of the valley in AZ caused this to happen. Then again not bad with 150,000 + when it all started. I replaced the MAF sensor about 2 years ago, and that was when I cleaned the IAC. Then this past year the truck kept idling poorly. Then it threw a PO120 code and I knew that either the TPS or IAC was bad. I just decided to replace the components. Now seeing this video, I will go through the tests next time around... Say at 300,000 miles! :-) I love your vids, Timmy!
Success! The IAC is re-installed and now the Tacoma starts and idles, instead of starts and dies. When testing my IAC with the battery I could see something inside it moving, so I knew it wasn't completely dead at least. Unbelievably my local dealer would have sold me a new IAC for $444 plus tax, for just the part. I see them for sale much, much cheaper on Ebay but not sure if those are junk, or the same part the dealer sells?
Glad it worked out for your Mike. The dealer marks up parts by a lot. There's lots of Ebay and Amazon seller that sell genuine Toyota parts. Online pricing for Toyota parts is always going to be way more affordable than buying directly from a dealer parts department.
WOW! Tim you are incredible! I've been watching ALL of the most popular UA-cam Wrenchers for years for assists with my vehicles. I just bought a 1995 T100 from a relative in great condition but with the expected minor issues. That is what brought me here. You are THE BEST play by play mechanic on YT! You truly take your time and show step by step how to complete a job including all of the tools used! Awesome! Needless to say , you have a new subscriber here on the West coast of Florida and I can't wait to check out your other videos. Love that you have a 98 4-runner. That lines up well with my 95 T100. One question: Do you know where I could pick up one of those service manuals for my rig? Thanks and keep on wrenching!
Thanks Mike. You made my day with your nice compliment of our channel. You can usually find FSM manuals for sale on Ebay. Just do a search for your year make and model and I bet you come up with several options from Ebay sellers.
Thanks for subscribing and glad you found our video helpful. We are all about providing enough detail so anyone using our videos can be successful with performing the job. We gear our videos to the absolute beginner so nobody is left behind. Where do you live?
So Tim i was not able to find a service tool to put into the diagnostic port, but I did follow the proper steps and procedure of cleaning the IAC and throttle body. Taking both pieces off correctly, taping off all of the sensors and cleaning both the IAC and throttle body, drying them before placing them back, two weeks later an engine light comes on for the IAC. I'm getting better gas mileage since before I barely got 200 miles a tank and now i'm getting 250miles a tank with 2.5 inches of lift. It doesn't make sense to me, could it be a false code? Currently looking to find the service tool.....However, I appreciate all of the videos you upload and brings me joy there is someone out there teaching people how to work on yoders!!!
Clear the code and maybe it doesn't come back. If your rig is running well, I wouldn't worry about the CEL at this point. If you need to smog your rig soon, then it could be an issue for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman The rig is running fine, getting better gas mileage which is a plus! I've already cleared the engine code twice now and it shows up right after 200 miles ? Im not entirely sure, I need to test the revs and as well get a multimeter to test the omhs. I did kinda blast the IAC with throttle body cleaner when i did the job maybe it shorted the iac ? or would it not even be running if the iac didnt work ?
Thanks for the video Tim! My 4Runner tossed a P0505 code the other day, idle was high in Park. Deceleration felt odd. Did your bench test and it failed.
That first small hose you removed going to air box tube near the throttle body mine has oil coming out of it why would it do that its @14:42 on video I have tried everything I could think of to do diag this mysterious oil coming out but nothing about the engine is running ruff so it's running fine not a clue why oil is coming out of this hose
That rubber hose connects to a hard line on the upper plenum and then has another rubber hose that heads towards the back of the engine and connects to a nipple on the backside of the driver side valve cover. On the passenger side valve cover, you have the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve and it's job is the following which I borrowed from a website: "The positive crankcase ventilation valve releases exhaust gas and unburned fuel from the engine block into the intake manifold. All engines allow some exhaust gases, unburned fuel and oil to “blow by” the pistons and collect in the crankcase where it produces sludge if not eliminated. Separating the crankcase from the intake manifold, which is a source of varying air pressure, the PCV valve maintains the optimal level of vacuum in the crankcase to extract the products of blow-by as well as potentially damaging moisture". So, with the PCV valve on the passenger side of the engine, I'm guessing this port on the driver side valve cover is also helping maintain the optimal level of vacuum in the crankcase. I'm suspecting your PCV valve might be a little sticky and maybe it's time to replace it.
@@TimmyTheToolman are we talking about the same hose connects to side of the intake tube close to the throttle body and then connects to top of the plenum it's in the video @14:42 seconds
@@AntonioClaudioMichael Yes, the same hose. If you look on the driver side of the motor, you will see another rubber hose connects up to that hard line on the plenum and then connects to a nipple on the back side of the driver side valve cover.
@@AntonioClaudioMichael Gotcha. It sure sounds like excessive pressure is being allowed to build-up and that's why you're seeing oil being forced into that tube. But, since you replaced the PCV valve, I don't know what else you can do.
Good video, testing the pins on my IAC and there isn’t no reading +B and RSC. Only between +B and RSO. Going have to replace it. Vehicle stalls every time on start up. Hopefully this keeps it on, after changing
How to test if no diagnostic port? Working on 2002 Tacoma, manual, 4x4. High Idle. Excessive fuel consumption. Stored po505 code. Thank You for wonderful and informative videos!
U just helped me, my 95 Ram has started stalling sometimes at hot idle, and I'm thinking this could be what's going wrong, it's got 175,000 think it's time for a new one
*Be sure to read this comment and also read the video description for helpful information.*
** Here's some additional information about the IAC valve that a helpful member put together on T4R.org. His name is Leon and he owns the Spiker Engineering company that makes products for Toyota SUVs and Trucks like the hood struts. Leon discovered after cleaning his IAC, his idle would climb as the engine temp increased rather than drop like it should. After dissecting the IAC to better understand how the mechanism works, he finally discovered the culprit. Some of the carbon he was cleaning off the IAC trap door got pushed rather than cleaned off the door, and where it got pushed and dried hindered the door from fully closing.
The following is what Leon reported: *"So what happened was that my q-tip cleaning dissolved the carbon, but the carbon then reconstituted itself on a different portion of the barrel, and once it dried, it prevented the barrel from closing. Without taking the IAC apart, I couldn't rotate the barrel far enough to notice this, but the actuator didn't have enough torque to overcome the resistance."* So, the take-away is do a thorough cleaning of the IAC if you're going to do it. Because of Leon's experience, his take-away is to not mess with the IAC unless you're having an issue with it. My opinion is I still think cleaning the IAC is a good preventative maintenance thing to do, because even though Leon had a bad result after cleaning it which inspired him to purchase a new one, not cleaning it could allow enough carbon to eventually cause the IAC trap door to become gummed up and not open and close properly.
Here's a link to the thread: www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/310151-solved-high-idle-increases-coolant-temp-iac-3.html
Last question can I vacuum leak cause a rich condition I did a smoke test and found my oil cap closed but smoke was coming out so I've flip the gasket seal and so far seemed to be OK I now have p1093 pending the no light on
@@isrealperez9069 If unmetered air is getting into the engine via a vacuum leak, I would then think you'd experience a "Too Lean" condition.
Timmy. Why do you think my 99 4Runner 3.4 mostly when it’s bitter cold (15f) and only every once in a great while when it isn’t so cold (50f) will sputter and sometimes stall until it warms up a bit?
@@4bangerlove Maybe the IAC valve is sticking a bit not giving the engine the air it needs. Both my 98 and 00 do this too and when I give it some throttle response, it corrects itself.
@L Smith Open the video description by clicking on "Show More". We provide the part number there.
I am blown away with your video technique and knowledge on this motor. Hard to find smart people like you that can do both jobs with 10 stars. Thanks for making this video.
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
I always learn something from Timmy. I had never owned a 4R and mine had a LOT of deferred maintenance and problems. I used the FSM and Tim's videos and have fixed all of the problems without any mistakes. If you do exactly what he says you will be successful.
Thanks for the kind comment about our channel. We appreciate it!
great job !!!! When you order the IAC valve gasket, you may want to also order a new set of screws. It is almost guaranteed the old ones will strip while removing them. The screws were stripped even though I used a JIS (Japan Industry Standard) screwdriver.
You may purchase bolts instead from Auto Zone, Lowes, or other hardware stores. The size is M5-0.8 x 16 mm
I've removed IAC valves off both of my 3rd Gen 4runners now. By clamping the throttle body in a bench vice, using a JIS screwdriver and applying sufficient downward pressure on the screws, I came nowhere close to stripping one of the heads of the screws. The key is having a screwdriver that fits the screw head well and using ample downward pressure before trying to break them free. That's at least been my experience. But, good for people to know the size screws in case they do strip one or more of their screws.
How the hell do you only have 60k subs? This channel is THE definitive Toyota repair source on the web.
We appreciate the kind words. I think we should have attracted more subscribers too based off the quality of our content but that's not the case. Plenty of people use our videos, but only a small percentage subscribes. Anyway, thanks for taking to time to comment.
Thanks for another great video! I bought my '98 Limited 22 years ago and happened across your channel about a year and a half ago. 138,000 km and everything was still stock except for the BF Goodrich AT's. Was planning on selling the 4Runner rather than buy new tires, fix the sagging rear end and weak rear hatch struts... but your channel changed everything. Many mods and upgrades have been made since then and I added the supercharger (your video was the push I needed) with URD 7th injector 9 months ago to great affect. A week after it was installed however I had a "episode" when after being parked in the hot sun for 2 hours, the engine had a hard time starting. Never had a problem starting before ever! After about 15 minutes it finally was running but sputtering badly. I would get 50 yards down the road and the engine would die. This continued for two blocks before it wouldn't start anymore. Towed it home and left in the garage for 36 hours. In the cool confines of the garage, it started first crank like normal. Noticed a pile of black soot below the tailpipe. No problems last fall, winter and spring until last week... first hot day this COVID season and after 20 minutes at the lumber store sitting in the sun, the engine just couldn't catch. Cranked fine but no ignition. Left it in the parking lot and came back 24 hours later... another hot day...still no start. Towed it home left it outside another 24 hours and wouldn't start in the sun. 12 hours later at 7:00AM ( a cool morning), started up first crank like nothing was wrong. OBD2 reader using torquepro app (wonder where I got that idea) showed no codes now, pending, or in storage. Checked T4R.ORG and most common problem identified for my symptoms was ... IAC! Other possibilities are fuel pump, fuel filter (will install Wallbro pump that came with the URD injector when my gas tank is on low), fuel pressure regulator, ECU fuse, bad MAF, battery ground and starter relay. Based on your excellent explanations, I now see that the likely problem is the IAC and its associates namely... 1) the throttle position sensor (TPS), 2) coolant temperature (sensor not the STOTT thermostat I installed for the supercharger) 3) Air Conditioning(AC switch).
I will proceed with testing and a "gentle" cleaning of the IAC. If this does not fix the problem will proceed to the TPS. I have a PDF of the 1996 - 2002 Factory Service Manual which I downloaded from the web but it did not have the IAC pages (SF-37) but thanks to this video all the steps to troubleshoot the IAC are documented. The TPS is page 960 (SF-31).The steps to troubleshoot the coolant temperature sensor and AC switch however, don't seem to exist in my manual. If anyone knows where to find, would be a great help. Will update on my progress.
Hey Tim, great to hear our channel inspired you to keep your 3rd Gen. Sounds like you're on the right track to diagnosing and figuring out your warm start issue. I personally like having the physical factory service manual books. If you do a search on Ebay for your year, you will most likely find the the 2 volume set for sale for a fair price. It seems the going rate is somewhere around $150. You obviously like to wrench so the books are well worth the investment. Let us know how the diagnosing goes for you. By the way, Sean will be stoked to see you are using his TEQ Tim logo. He designed that.
I was one of those whom sprayed and sprayed! Yes, some Q-tip use. Agree, don’t spray onto connector IAC. That door area was gooked up 180,000 mile 2001, when I cleaned, 3.4 Tacoma! Did this May of 2019. It’s 2020, June, now. Idle, cold start, etc. excellent!
Timmy, you are the gift to us Toyota fans! Going for 300,000 plus with my 2001 Tacoma. At, 189,000.
Glad the cleaning of you IAC worked out for you and thanks for the kind words. We appreciate it!
Tim: thanks for another great video! My ‘97 was idling at 1500 rpm warm and would barely idle at startup when cold. This after sitting for several weeks while I fixed front end wreck damage. Your video helped immensely because you provided testing procedures to verify if the valve is good. So useful since these valves aren’t cheap and buying a new one may not be necessary. I would add that it’s not a good idea to try and reuse the old IAC gasket. Ask me how I know! Anyway, thanks again for taking the time!
You're welcome Frank. Great to hear you found our video helpful. Yes, OEM IAC valves are very expensive so you want to be sure it's bad before dropping the coin on one. Thanks for the comment and Happy Wrenching!
Once again. Tim to the rescue. Cleaned my iac and my idle went from 1450 ish. Dow to 850ish. Thanks again Tim!!
Cool, I'm glad our video helped you get your idle issue resolved.
Tim, thank you again for your great videos, I've had a rough idle condition on my 4Runner for almost two months now and I changed out the IAC valve yesterday and vehicle runs great!!
That's great to hear and you're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out.
@@TimmyTheToolman my mechanic did an air intake induction cleaning with BG mist with two cans of spray and the rough idle was gone. The idle rpm is steady at 750 instead of running below 650. Do I still need to replace the IAC valve?
@@francistham9928 If it's running good, it's running good. You don't need to replace it.
This man is a legend! So much patience, so good attention to details! Many thanks, Sir!
@OctavianVesa Thanks for the nice compliment. I appreciate it, and you're very welcome!
Thank you! I seriously appreciate everything!!!! The explanation was AMAZING!!!! Thank you for taking the time to make this video so that us unknowledgeable auto DIYers can save money lol
You're very welcome. Using the word "Amazing" is a nice compliment to read and we appreciate it very much. Just like you thanked us for taking the time to make this video, we thank you for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you for sharing this very detailed video. I followed all the steps to diagnose my problem and my truck runs like new now. You just saved me 260 bucks! Thank you sir for taking the time to educate us.
You're very welcome. Glad our video helped you out and thanks for taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching!
Great vid again Tim! You are absolutely right about just using a q-tip with cleaner on it to clean the valve but for the wrong reason. The coils almost never go bad on these as they are sealed in plastic so you can't short them out. However, there are two unsealed mini ball bearings on either side of the valve "gates" and when you wash the IAC out with cleaner, you wash out all the grease in those two ball bearings. Eventually the moisture gets to them and they seize up. This also happens over time on its own as the grease dries up. My other comment is that the green coil assembly you took off is "clocked" relative to the valve's body. It has up to 5deg of adjustment either way and you have to mark where it was before you take it apart otherwise your rpms are going to be slightly off. I don't recommend trying to service these if you are having IAC caused idle issues because the crappy bearings they put in these are usually shot and very difficult to replace as it takes a special puller and careful documentation to get these valves disassembled and reassembled.
Thanks for sharing all this information Jacob. It's good to know about the lubrication of the ball bearings for the valve door. I did spray a bunch of cleaner in there so I guess time will tell if my valve door seizes up.
I am a little confused with your statement about the clocking of the coil assembly. From what I could see, there was no adjustment to this. The coil assembly slides on and you have to have the screw holes lined up. The slightest turn off center would mean the screw holes wouldn't line up. But, in any event, I got the coil assembly back on and my idle is acting normal. I sealed the screw heads with some Toyota FIPG. I'm guessing that sealant is to help prevent the screws from coming loose? That's the only thing that makes sense to me. Also, I noticed the coil assembly is magnetized so maybe another possibility is that sealant blocks the magnetization the screws will have?
If you take off the coil assembly and clean off all the fipg inside you will see that the screw holes in the coil are slotted, not circular to give some adjustment. If you don't clean it off inside the holes, it should line back up where it was as in your case. The fipg on top of the screws is the extra that squeezed out when they sealed the coils to the valve's body.
@@jacobs2309 Ah, I see. That makes sense. That's probably why I got it back in the same spot because I didn't mess with the sealant on the inside. Thanks for the information.
No problem. I made my own puller and completely disassembled this valve because it's 200+ from toyota now. The bearing on the small end that is the most exposed to oil vapor and moisture can be changed, but it's a real pita. Everything on these things is clocked in a precise position from the factory and needs to go back exactly the way it was. Don't recommend for the average diyer but you can save $200 by just cleaning it and replacing that $5 bearing.
@@jacobs2309 Wow, that would have made one hell of a DIY video. Too bad you didn't film it.
Thanks Timmy! Recently rebuilt my 3.4 in a 96 T-100. While I was cleaning the throttle body/IAC I noticed the bypass tube had a fair amount of rtv silicone in the body cavity, almost intentionally placed, in the IAC bypass port. Surprised me when it popped out and made me curious as I was not having any idling issues to that point. I cleaned the throttle body due to excessive blow-by from many miles. The rebuild has been a success and I'm happy to refer to your videos for help.
It is interesting that the port was filled with RTV. It had to be intentional. Anyway, I'm glad our video helped you out. You're very welcome.
Timmy the tool an is a freaking mind reader!!! I need this so bad right now
I hope it helps you out. Happy Wrenching!
Same here, but i put a new oem iac about 6 months ago and check engine p0505 came back up and dont have an air leak anywhere. Im gonna check that air hose that goes underneath iac
I've done this, but I believe I need to do it again. I have performed everything under the sun to fix a recurring P0120 problem. I'm looking to re-look at the IAC again and cleaning the TB
@@BKTX maybe cleaning or replacing the mass airflow sensor
@@JJ-rb3ss JC, yup just had enough time last weekend to do that too. I'm going to do everything over again. I skipped a few steps that TTT did here on the IAC, but did the open/close testing, which is the most important test.
I lost count of how many of your videos have helped me with my 4Runner, Tacoma, etc. etc. You're the man, Tim.
Hey Clayton, great to hear our videos have been helping you out. We appreciate you taking the time to comment. Happy Wrenching Bro!
Once again, another great video. Very thorough and knowledge filled.
One thing I've always done when replacing the metal throttle body gasket, is to Dremel out the flat spot on the front so it's a full circle. I believe that this is how the TRD throttle body gaskets come when you have a supercharger.
Thanks. We're glad you like the video.
You are correct that the TRD supercharger throttle body gasket has a full circle. The Toyota engineers had to have a reason for blocking part of the air flow to the upper plenum but it's sounding like the reason wasn't as important as they thought it was since you're running it like you have a supercharger on your engine and haven't experienced any ill effects.
I today removed and replace my throttle body gasket.i cleaned the throttle body for the first time,not good.i am glad with your help I tackled this job alone.i do feel great for DIY,thanks Timmy
Good job!
A great show of professional repair! Thank you!
Thanks for the nice compliment. You're very welcome!
Just wanted to thank you one more time! I replaced the IAC valve on my 2002 Tacoma SR5 PreRunner today following your video as I did the work. There were only a couple of minor differences between yours and mine. I still failed my smog test though because I didn't drive the vehicle long enough after the job, resulting in an OBII failure. I was told to drive it about 40 miles and then bring it back for a free re-test. Thanks again!
You're welcome again Chuck. Here's a tip for knowing if your rig is ready for a smog check. You can either buy a scan gauge tool that will let you know all your system monitors are reset and ready or you can get an OBD II reader that sends info to a phone app like Torque Pro. Then you won't have to guess if your vehicle is ready for a smog test. I use to use the Torque Pro phone app to monitor things but I switched to using a Scan Gauge. Here's a link for you: amzn.to/2QTlz6z
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks!!
@@chuckmacwilliam4168 You're welcome!
Just found your channel. Where have you been all my life? :) Great content. Thanks.
Also, "Wits' End" is the perfect name for a tool company.
Well, you found us and that's what's important. Glad you like our channel. Welcome to our show and Happy Wrenching!
Did the exact same thing last weekend with my 98. I spent about an hour cleaning and cleaning. since it was already removed I really gave it a go. I kept the circuit/plug on top so the throttle body fluid didn't spill on it. She throttles at 750.
Good job Edward!
As always, best quality videos with great info and details. Thank you sir.
Thanks for the nice compliment and you're very welcome!
If you want to save thousands and have intimate knowledge of your vehicle like you should this IS the place to be. Thanks big time man....subscribed!
Thanks Gerald. We appreciate the plug for our channel. You're welcome Big Time! Happy Wrenching!
A very detailed repair video. Great job, well done! Liked very much. Understand from the bottom to the top.
Thanks! We're glad you liked it.
I cleaned mine in a ziploc bag with detergent submerged in my ultrasonic cleaner and it worked great. I removed the coil motor first and also the bimetallic spring + range plate + plastic stopper. I wouldn't have wanted to try it without removing the coil motor.
That's a solid idea.
Your legend mate thank you for the video i done mine yesterday and now I'm happy with my prado thank you so much from Sydney Australia you are a life saver 🙏❤
You're very welcome Kavei. Great to know our video helped out a Toyota Brother from Down Under.
Thanks Timmy, i learn alot from this video regarding the IAC valve. 👍👍👍
You're welcome Nicky. Good to hear you learned a lot from our video.
Great video. I had high idle after replacing engine with jdm motor and i had done exactly as you said not to do
. I cleaned throttle body cleaner with iacv upside down before installing. All the junk went into iacv. Removed it and cleaned iacv and she purrs like a kitten!!
Thx Timmy
Thanks! I'm glad our video helped you out.
This is a very detailed video on the IAC brother Tim!! Nice work, keep 4Running!
Thanks Brother Jake. Glad you like it.
Looks like I have a project to do for my 2003 Toyota Tacoma pre-runner V4 2.7 L! Thank you, Tim!
You're welcome!
This IAC part is one of the most important reason that related to error code P0171 occurred!
Really? I just had A/F sensor replaced along with MAF. The check engine came back on
Your Videos are Gold. I’ve used so many of them to fix my 4Runner. I credit you as the only reason it’s still alive as my daily driver, and boat puller. I have a 98 SR5. It has the sputter stumble at 3k rpm I’m sure you’ve heard of. I put factory (two prong plugs from the dealer) trying to correct that. Afterwards, it idles beautifully but at operating temperature it intermittently stalls at idle. I occasionally get surging at idle but most of the time it just cuts off. I tried replacing vac lines, I pulled the Throttle body and cleaned it thoroughly as well as the MAF and the iac. IAC was BAD carbon buildup, stalactite s. I cleaned it sparkly with tb cleaner and cutips. Tested with a battery and it seems to open and close fine. None of this solved my problem. resistance was in spec, (I didn’t write down the numbers) for both IAC and TPS. IAC is original and TPS is aftermarket. Should I trust the tests, and keep checking other things? Seems 90% of time the stalling when warm issue is fixed with new OEM IAC. Oh, and my 3k rpm issue is still there too, just not as critical, or maybe the same?
Hey Keith, we're happy to know our videos have helped you out a lot. I'm not a fan of aftermarket sensors unless it's your only option because Toyota stopped making it. That aftermarket TPS could be your issue. Maybe you could get lucky and you can find a used one at a PicknPull yard. Also, there's a guy in Washington that parts out 3rd and 4th Gen 4runners and I bet he could sell you a used one so you're not out so much money to see if the TPS is the culprit. The guy's name is Josh Young and his company name is PNW 4runner Connection. Contact him via Facebook if you want to see if he can sell you a used TPS. Tell him I referred you. He's a good guy and his prices are fair.
@@TimmyTheToolman I wanted to write a quick follow up on this in case someone else is as frustrated as I was. I purchased both the IAC and the TPS as every post and video I found for my symptoms led me to those items. I got OEM from a Toyota dealer on a Black Friday deal (I didn’t know dealers did that). I replaced the TPS first since mine was not OEM and when that didn’t solve the loud (like it can’t draw air) noise, nor the stumble and stall issue. I replaced the IAC. It still didn’t solve my problem. I had noticed that performance had slipped on my CS144 it wasn’t producing like it had been. So, I drove around until the car was operating temp, and stalling at every stop. Then I unplugged the alternator (new back in March/April (8 months)) and drove around. Car idled perfectly, quiet and smooth and did not stall or even hiccup 1x, drove about 20 minutes without the alternator. Pulled back in the driveway, connected the alternator back up and instantly the sucking noise was back, the hard idle, immediately stumbled and stalled out. I replaced the alt with a reman Delco CS144 from the ACDelco store on Amazon and it is running great now. I don’t know if the alternator was sending micro-bursts or micro-dips, but only at the low idle of a warm engine, but it sure made my 4Runner crazy and had me thinking I was too.
@@keithbrown1914 Interesting. I'm glad you figured out the issue.
You are the best my friends , thank you 👍
You're very welcome.
Best video tutorials thus far.
Excellent format for learning,. Methodically sweet!
Thanks Dave. We appreciate the compliment.
Outstanding tutorial. Thank you.
Thanks Allen. You're very welcome.
I used to be a certified Toyota technician back in the late 90's
Thank you for sharing good information!!
Well thanks for stopping by our channel. If you have any feedback on any of the videos please let us know in the comments section.
Tim have a doubt regarding to spraying cleaner inside the port that open and close, as a toyota tec as you introduced yourself please clarify this
HI Timmy. Ran my eye over the throttle body after watching the video. Yet to progress to cleaning it but I checked the 3 cables while there and they all had excess slack esp. The throttle and transmission kick down ones. I adjusted them and wow what a difference. No throttle lag and transmission shifts are perfect. Gees I learn so much from your channel, thank you. Sic moustache BTW. Another happy Prado here in Australia.
Hey Andrew, that great the cable adjustments worked out well for you. This is something I learned from the Toyota forums around 4-5 years ago. When we're shooting videos, I try to remember associated things I can mention as we're doing the job like the cable adjustments and letting people know that guys have accidentally hooked up one of the coolant lines to the air assist line. Sometimes I wonder if people appreciate the extra blabbing I do when shooting a video or are they annoyed because they just want me to stop talking and get on with the next step in the job. Good to know my extra blabbing is appreciated.
It's great to read that you're learning a lot from our channel. The internet and more specifically UA-cam is allowing us to reach anyone in the world with an internet connection with the videos we make. You're very welcome my Australian Mate! Glad you like the stache. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman I like the videos just the way they are. Not being a mechanic, I find fine points of detail can turn a job I do from being OK to frustrating real quick. You guys cover the points off so it makes life a lot easier. Plus the videos often tell a story, a sort of mini adventure because you speak about what you're doing as you go. The manual hub swaps you did with Jordan are great to watch for example. Anything with press work is really interesting I find. All the best to you.
@@andrewb2326 Thanks Andrew. That's good to hear. We figured most people would appreciate the detail we offer. I do know that there are experienced mechanics and DIYers that just want to see a video to get an idea of what is entailed to do the job and they'd rather see an abridged version. When Sean and I started this channel. we agreed we didn't want to leave anyone lost by not showing enough detail or skipping a crucial step.
One of the things you read about what makes videos appealing is a shorter length, like no longer than say 20 minutes because people have short attention spans. I can tell some Automotive Channel UA-camrs follow this rule and never upload a really long video or they break it up into several videos. We have uploaded many videos that are an hour long and some over an hour. We have also broken up longer jobs into several parts, like our transmission replacement video, but all 3 parts are fairly long. My thinking is this, if people want help to do a job, they will sit through our video no matter how long it is and maybe watch it several times to make sure they got a good handle on what the job entails. I guess automotive videos do have entertainment appeal and people will watch just because they are interested in the subject matter and have no plans on doing the job, and maybe in that case, shorter videos seem more appealing.
I guess what I'm trying to say is we aren't scared to post long videos. What makes our channel much different than a high percentage of other automotive channels is the detail we offer. I think it's the main reason why people watch our videos and subscribe to our channel.
Anyway, I appreciate your comments Andrew. Happy Wrenching!
I want to share some other ideas. My Hyundai Santa Fe (manual) has been sitting for a year. Now when I start it up, it stalls immediately unless I keep the gas pedal pressed a little.
I used a trick from FordTechMakuloco's video and stuck a thin shim under the throttle cable lever thing to prevent it from closing all the way. Genius trick and it worked.
Then I tried pushing my AC button. Sure enough the rpm went way down, almost stalling. I thought I could push the AC on/off a few times to kind of work the valve unstuck (remember, it's been sitting for a long time so maybe it got stuck slightly by dried carbon that solidified around it).
It didn't work. And as soon as I removed the shim, the engine stalled. That's proof enough for me that this valve is likely the problem.
Yep, your engine relies on the IAC valve to open under idling and deceleration situations so it can get the air it needs to create the air/fuel mixture required to run. Sounds like a bad IAC valve to me.
Yup smoked out the parking lot... idle is silk smooth, engine is more responsive... thank you. Definitely a to do periodically... learned a lot from ur vids... much appreciation... whish i could have a beer w u
Great to hear our video helped you out. Thanks for taking the time to comment and let us know. Happy Wrenching!
Update... 2 days later the intermittent high idle returned...
Went through the process, iac interior and flap definitely needed carbon buildup cleaning... followed the step by step process with lots of q-tips & spray... result- solid 750 rpms at idle. Thank you.
@@zorbakorba4180 You're welcome. Good job fixing your issue.
Extremely nice work with very attention to detail. You're my kinda guy. Thanks.
Thanks for the compliment Mohammad. We appreciate it. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Super thorough step-by-step procedure, and the basic mechanics of the job should translate well to my own (1997 Acura TL 3.2L) whip, which threw a P0505 code, and is behaving unruly at idle. Thanks guys. -Stevie
P/S "Good enough for government work." That cracked me up, as I have never heard that phrase uttered from others than myself. 😂
You've very welcome. Hope you can get your idle fixed Stevie.
I've been saying good enough for government work for almost 30 years. I've worked for local government for 29 years. One more year and I'm retiring.
I really enjoy the level of detail you include that a lot of the other repair videos gloss over.
I found that wire loom retainer like the one that you released in the beginning of the disassembly at 14:28 by squeezing with a pair of needle nose pliers can be released by using an 11mm socket to squeeze the pins of the retainer and it's less likely to mangle the plastic by squeezing too hard.
Thanks Steve. Good to hear you appreciate the detail we offer in our videos. I like your socket trick for those types of clips. I'm going to try that out. Happy Wrenching!
Early model IAC control solenoids were set at a dimension of 1 1/8” with a spring set manually . Failed twice in two weeks , returned to NAPA this time they were nice enough to exchange it with the non adjustable upgraded version ! They wanted to deplete the defective stock first ! How nice of them !
Well, good to hear they finally took care of you. Better late than never.
...another outstanding video Tim....really been needing to do this on my 2000 4Runner to correct a rough and erratic rpm idle...
now I have the confidence to give it a try...thanks again for posting...and keep 'em coming...
Thanks Ken. I hope it fixes your idle issue.
Before taking the throttle body off: Try removing the 3- hoses and spraying carb cleaner into the IAC valve, and moving the pin (2 screws and cap) back and forth and letting it sit over night....worked for me!
Thanks for sharing your technique.
i may try that
Label the hoses 1,2,3 with tape to keep the order correct. Or draw a diagram.
Sir, you have the best tools and diagrams in your country. I wish it was available in my country. good job and be happy 😊.
If you are working on an older Toyota, you can usually find the factory service books for your year and model for sale on Ebay. If you have a newer Toyota model or can't find the books for your older model, you can access all the information you need on the Toyota Tech Info website. You can buy a 2-day membership for $25 and download as much information as you want. techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&goto=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2Fagent%2Fcustom-login-response%3Fstate%3Dms9aH4QHu4Ft6KCd-YPY7kh-jcQ&original_request_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%3A443%2F
Nice comment about not connecting the coolant hose to the air inlet. I did and holy shit! It ran but after a few seconds it leaked coolant and blew lots of steam out of the exhaust. Fixed my mistake and took it for a 7 mile drive. The only effect seemed to be an increase in the idle speed in neutral to about 1500 rpm from what it was before about 1200. Removed the IAC valve, disassembled it and found it was clean. I guess it had been steam cleaned(: On reinstall I now get about 1200 rpm in neutral. It is an aftermarket IAC. Engine with 311,500 miles. I think I will try new aftermarket IAC.
You're not the first that has happened to and you won't be the last. It's happens. An OEM IAC would be a better bet but they are pricey.
@@TimmyTheToolman I did the same. How did it end for you? What should I do ?
Great video! I learned some of this the hard way on my '95 Avalon (1MZFE) which has a very similar throttle body. I had to remove the intake manifold to replace the knock sensor harness. While I was at it I did a lot cleaning of the throttle body, plenum, and intake manifold ports and replaced all the. After I had that whole job done, it ran fine but I had a very high idle. From your video and others I realized it was probably the IAC valve. I think carbon and gunk got into the IAC when I cleaned out the throttle body and butterfly without turning it upside down, or covering that IAC intake port.
Sure enough, after cleaning out the IAC (in position without removing throttle body), and letting lots of cleaner flow out the air hose nipple, my idle returned to a perfect 750-800 RPM when warmed up. Hoping it stays that way. If not, I'll remove the throttle body and do the full cleaning. Now I know how. Thanks again.
P.S. Just read your exchange with @jacobs2309 about the throttle body spray dissolving the grease out of the bearings. As I did it the simple (stupid) way of just spraying the cleaner in there, perhaps I will pay later as those bearings seize up. Oh well, at least I'll know what to suspect in the future.
I wouldn't worry about the bearings. Good job fixing your issue. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks. Good to hear.
Watching this and dreaming...Now back to my 3vze paperweight work. Detailed and straightforward gem tutorial!
Glad you like the video. Happy Wrenching!
Wow I am so impressed with you attention to detail and excellent camera close up work. Thanks this is so very helpful A to Z for this procedure
Thanks for the nice compliment. Glad you found our video helpful. You're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman It's actually rare to see someone be very specific and precise, quite refreshing. I also joined the forum and sub'd
@@agateenchantmentrockwizard5969 Thanks. Lots of UA-camrs think they have to follow the golden rule of only putting out short videos because that's what the experts say to do. We get it, people have short attention spans and lack patience. Oh well, that's their problem. We make videos as detailed and as long as they need to be to accurately deliver the information to our viewers. People can always fast forward through material they don't need. There's plenty of people that hate how long our videos are. I just tell them to find another UA-camr that covers the subject matter, and when they get lost and confused, come on back to us for the answers. We aren't perfect and definitely don't know it all, but we try hard to give people the best and most detailed video we can at the time we are shooting it. Quite often there are updates of better information and techniques and we let people know about this either in the video description or a pinned comment.
Thanks again for supporting what we do. We're here to help people and comments like yours is what helps motivate us to keep doing it.. it's quite a bit of work without much monetary gain. Our favorite form of payment is hearing people appreciate our efforts. Happy Wrenching!
@@TimmyTheToolman I so totally understand our rockhounding channel we run very similarly and our growing subscriber base shows people appreciate our time and attention.
I completely agree on a video's length, it takes what it takes to get the point across on any subject.
On my 4Runner it's having low idle (after warm up). During the startup shes great no issues but after she's completely warmed up her idle is 700 or less and runs a bit rough but just a bit, no stalling. I've checked for vacuum leaks and I haven't found any yet. She just had a complete top end rebuild by a very skilled mechanic but he's unavailable to ask.
Any ideas 💡?
@@agateenchantmentrockwizard5969 I'd double-check the timing. You could do it with a timing light or by removing the upper timing cover so you can see the cam pulleys. To remove the upper cover, slide the radiator hose clamp back on the hose to give you room to pull the cover towards the radiator. Put the crank pulley timing mark lined up with the "0" and then check to see the cam pulley timing marks line up with their respective timing marks on the cover behind them. If they aren't lined up, give the crank pulley one more full revolution and then check again. For every two revolutions of the crank pulley, the cams turn 1 revolution.
Your attention to detail and your step-by-step instructions were extremely helpful you explain things very well thank you especially for that new Jis screwdriver info I never knew about 👍🏼
You're very welcome Hector. Glad you found our video helpful.
Tim, Thank you for all your videos. I have a 2000 4runner with 300k miles and really enjoy the truck and your videos. I recently replaced the timing belt, had all injectors cleaned and flow testing performed, replaced the fuel pressure regulator while it was apart along with a new IAC and throttle position sensor, plugs wires, gaskets, and coil packs. All Toyota parts since I have had issues using aftermarket parts not communicating right with the computer or gauges. I have an issue with long cranks though when the engine is warm or hot. It starts immediately when it is cold or right after running. The problem is when it sits for 30 minutes to a few hours. It seems like it is flooding. If I press down the gas pedal a little it seems like it pops off. The IAC tested fine using your video, but I decided to replace it anyway thinking just maybe this was the issue anyway and who knows with 300k miles wouldn't hurt. About a year ago, I replaced the fuel pump and sending unit as well because I was having the issue with the sending unit per the TSB. I'm really at a loss? What do you think might be worth replacing or checking? I don't think there is anything else I missed. Thanks again for your videos. Looking forward to your reply when you get the opportunity. Best regards, Mark
Hey Mark, glad you like our videos. Your problem sounds like a difficult one to figure out. You already addressed the things I would have thought as the culprit. I did a little research just now and one guy realized he had a bad MAF which caused the same symptoms you're experiencing, a hard start when warm. Maybe test and clean the MAF and see where that gets you. If it still is having a hard start after you verify it passes the ohms resistance test and you cleaned it, get the engine hot again, let it sit and then before you start it unplug the MAF. It is starts right up, but obviously gives you a CEL code for the MAF disconnected, I think that would be proof it was your problem.
Mark Cunnings. Did you ever figure out what your hard start issue was???
I have the exact problem in my sons 2002 4Runner. Replaced all injectors & fuel regulator, no help. Then new MAF & no help. Throwing lean code P0171 & now random misfire P0300. Appreciate any feedback. Happy New Year!
A brilliant video for learning, you have a great way of breaking it down. Will try to fix my father's Toyota with these tips
Thank you for the compliment. Good luck with your dad's rig.
I need to do this on my rig as well, it's been stalling from time to time after idling low, most likely it's this. Awesome work as always Tim, thanks for the video.
Good luck with testing. Hopefully a good cleaning is all it needs. Glad you like the video and you're very welcome.
Very understandable explanation of the function on the IAC valve.
Thanks. Glad you found it informative.
Any time the T body comes off a 3.4l, i use a supercharger gasket because its the full circle not D-shaped. Doing this, and taking off the 90⁰ elbow where the airbox goes into the fender and using a K&N stock replacement air filter gives 8 extra horsepower. Port-matching the intake manifold and running 92 octane also will make the thing SCREAM
8 extra horsepower! Wooohoooo!
Do they sell the supercharger gasket at oriellys
Tim - Thank you sooo much for this channel. I just picked up a 1999 Tacoma and your channel is a wealth of knowledge. Good video, great commentary. Again, THANK YOU!!!!!!
You're very welcome Todd. Enjoy your Tacoma.
Cool. You can also use an m12 battery with a couple of mini fuses stuck in the slots and then clip to those. Also, with scan tool I was able to monitor the duty cycle of a normally functioning IAC at idle (30%) and then with a load of AC compressor or slightly turning the wheel (increased to 40%). It's a 2006 Matrix with over 2006,000 miles.
Thanks for sharing.
Excellent video. Your attention to detail was superb. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Thank you for the nice compliment. We really appreciate it and you're very welcome. Happy Wrenching!
The way you explain every step is excellent. BEST video I've watched on this. Hope you do more. BTW-I did buy a few items you have listed.
Thanks for the kind words Tom and we appreciate you using our links! It allows us to make sure we can make more videos in the future!
Great tutorial! i dont even own a toyota (I have a Montero) but I enjoyed it to the end. Very thorough, great video shots and you obviously know your stuff. Thank you!
Thanks for the nice compliment. We appreciate it! You're very welcome.
Huge tip: Remove the top two studs ( M8-1.25 -- XX mm or some such) and replace with Dorman (anyone's) M8-1.25 -- YY -- you be the judge. (Use the studs to judge length.) These Flanged Bolts are available in every parts house. The labor savings are astounding. (A full hour on a Sienna plenum project. You won't have to touch the throttle body, any of its connections!)
Toyota used 12mm nuts for these studs. The Dorman bolts will need 13mm sockets. Otherwise, they are identical.
Once you've made the swap, you'll kick yourself that you didn't do so earlier.
On my Sienna, it's best to remove the (3) studs the moment you can wiggle a Knipex pump handle pliers in between. They are then easily pulled away from the plenum... right through the throttle body. The studs only make sense back at the factory... not in your repair bay.
For small hose removal, a trivial, common body tool -- with a forked end -- is dreamy for PUSHING hoses off of their connection. All hoses are best shoved off as they relax under compression from that direction. When you pull on them, you're getting the Chinese fingers effect. You're actually tightening them down around the metal tubing -- often to the point of semi-destruction. (Frayed termination, and temper -- yours.)
Once you're going to this much effort, you'd be crazy to re-use gaskets. A vacuum leak, from a re-used gasket, will cause personal insanity. If you dig into the issue, the gaskets are one-time seals. They deform upon use. If rubber/ elastomeric they HARDEN. When that happens, they will not 'flow' to seal. You can easily end up with a tiny vacuum leak -- that degrades your engine -- for years. And you just can't put your finger on it. When you visit the junkyard -- always a wise idea -- you'll see how poor repairs// maintenance killed engine after engine. (Totally filthy MAF sensors at the top of the list.)
Thanks for sharing all of this.
Thank you sir. Very much thank you. I took off the TB last night after cleaning the IAC valve and that did not work. So I took it off again and found the entire mechanism was seized somehow so I worked it around. The rpm before was around 1750 idle after warm up. It would shift into second gear in drive with no gas. Now it is at a cool 750. Tysm
You are very welcome. Stoked you figured it and fixed the problem.
Very thorough procedures. Thank you for the this vital video.
You’re welcome. Hope you were successful with your wrenching endeavours!
I didn't have any luck with that Japanese screwdriver. I had better luck with a regular screwdriver, I might've used a P3. I tried a cheap IAC valve from ebay for fun, it didn't work lol. I used Standard Motor Products brand IAC valve and it worked great and was made in the USA believe it or not.
Well, you got it done. That's all that counts.
Incredible detail...it's like a seminar
Glad you appreciate the detail. Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Nice to have that book for every car you have.
Yes, it is. If you don't have the book, you can buy a subscription to the Toyota Tech Info website and download any information you need.
thank you for your comprehensive lecture about IAC/ISCV...
You're very welcome Harrison.
This is ,for me, a real helpful and clear video. Thank you so much!
You're very welcome!
You’re an excellent teacher.
Thank you very much for your video.
Thanks Leona. I really appreciate the compliment. You're very welcome and Happy Wrenching!
Incredible. This was more like a proper lecture than a hack.
Glad you liked my lecture.
Been researching this process for my 03 Taco with a 2.7. Just cleaned the throttle body and the IAC a few hours ago, off to the mechanic tomorrow for a rough idle and hard start.
The rough idle and hard start happened after the cleaning or did you do the cleaning due to the rough idle and hard start?
@@TimmyTheToolman i had the check engine light on for two years but the truck ran perfect. One day it wouldnt start and rough idle for a day or two and that went away for a month… SO i had the codes read from the local parts store ( there were about 5 or 6 mostly evap system and bank 1 o2 sensor) so I tested and replaced some evap parts as well as the gas filter, the check engine light went off and the idle would fluctuate when warm… acceleration felt like a wild horse in first 3 gears, not a lot of power. I saw some vids and decided before the mechanic I should do everything I can before he has a look, so I cleaned the throttle body and the ICV today. The really rough idle returned and it barely starts but the stuttering acceleration went away and the check engine light came back on. Unfortunately I didnt know how to test the ICV
@@Seajunkie I think it could be an issue with the throttle position sensor. If your throttle body has a throttle position sensor that's not replaceable, then you'd need a new throttle body. I'm interested to hear what the shop figures out.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hmmm I must hve forgotten to plug something back in and the mechanic did it for me… LOL. Back to this bucking while accelerating so Im going to delve into your suggestion… thank you!
@@TimmyTheToolman I replaced the throttle position sensor as it is accessible, unfortunately my truck still bucks when accelerating. None of this was happening before I tried to replace the solenoids/ vsv in the evap system
I did this a couple of years ago on my truck. Now just this last weekend, I changed it out for new. I have 183, 000 on my truck, 5VZ-FE.
I guess it finally quit working and that's why you replaced it?
@@TimmyTheToolman In the last couple of years it has been a cascade of trouble codes surrounding the TPS, IAC, and MAF. I imagine my living in this dusty area of the valley in AZ caused this to happen. Then again not bad with 150,000 + when it all started. I replaced the MAF sensor about 2 years ago, and that was when I cleaned the IAC. Then this past year the truck kept idling poorly. Then it threw a PO120 code and I knew that either the TPS or IAC was bad. I just decided to replace the components. Now seeing this video, I will go through the tests next time around... Say at 300,000 miles! :-) I love your vids, Timmy!
@@JLin576 Gotcha. Glad you're liking the videos we make. Happy Wrenching!
Success! The IAC is re-installed and now the Tacoma starts and idles, instead of starts and dies. When testing my IAC with the battery I could see something inside it moving, so I knew it wasn't completely dead at least. Unbelievably my local dealer would have sold me a new IAC for $444 plus tax, for just the part. I see them for sale much, much cheaper on Ebay but not sure if those are junk, or the same part the dealer sells?
Glad it worked out for your Mike. The dealer marks up parts by a lot. There's lots of Ebay and Amazon seller that sell genuine Toyota parts. Online pricing for Toyota parts is always going to be way more affordable than buying directly from a dealer parts department.
Outstanding video presentation. Thank you Mr. Timmy.
Thanks Joel. We appreciate the compliment. You're very welcome Mr. Joel.
WOW! Tim you are incredible!
I've been watching ALL of the most popular UA-cam Wrenchers for years for assists with my vehicles. I just bought a 1995 T100 from a relative in great condition but with the expected minor issues. That is what brought me here. You are THE BEST play by play mechanic on YT!
You truly take your time and show step by step how to complete a job including all of the tools used! Awesome!
Needless to say , you have a new subscriber here on the West coast of Florida and I can't wait to check out your other videos. Love that you have a 98 4-runner. That lines up well with my 95 T100.
One question: Do you know where I could pick up one of those service manuals for my rig?
Thanks and keep on wrenching!
Thanks Mike. You made my day with your nice compliment of our channel. You can usually find FSM manuals for sale on Ebay. Just do a search for your year make and model and I bet you come up with several options from Ebay sellers.
I hit the subsribe as soon as I see how long your video. Very helpful! thanks from the other side of the world.
Thanks for subscribing and glad you found our video helpful. We are all about providing enough detail so anyone using our videos can be successful with performing the job. We gear our videos to the absolute beginner so nobody is left behind. Where do you live?
Hello. Thanks for the informative video. I will try to clean the iac on my '00 runner.
You're welcome. Good luck with the job.
So Tim i was not able to find a service tool to put into the diagnostic port, but I did follow the proper steps and procedure of cleaning the IAC and throttle body. Taking both pieces off correctly, taping off all of the sensors and cleaning both the IAC and throttle body, drying them before placing them back, two weeks later an engine light comes on for the IAC. I'm getting better gas mileage since before I barely got 200 miles a tank and now i'm getting 250miles a tank with 2.5 inches of lift. It doesn't make sense to me, could it be a false code? Currently looking to find the service tool.....However, I appreciate all of the videos you upload and brings me joy there is someone out there teaching people how to work on yoders!!!
Clear the code and maybe it doesn't come back. If your rig is running well, I wouldn't worry about the CEL at this point. If you need to smog your rig soon, then it could be an issue for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman The rig is running fine, getting better gas mileage which is a plus! I've already cleared the engine code twice now and it shows up right after 200 miles ? Im not entirely sure, I need to test the revs and as well get a multimeter to test the omhs. I did kinda blast the IAC with throttle body cleaner when i did the job maybe it shorted the iac ? or would it not even be running if the iac didnt work ?
@@soroushazizi4700 If it shorted out, it wouldn't work. At least I don't think it would work.
Thanks for the video Tim!
My 4Runner tossed a P0505 code the other day, idle was high in Park. Deceleration felt odd. Did your bench test and it failed.
You're welcome. Hope the new IAC Valve fixes the issue.
Excellent video, very detailed. You’re a skilled teacher.
Thanks Sam. We're glad you like the video and I appreciate the nice compliment. Happy Wrenching!
Subbed because you're so smart and very nice for teaching us all for free! 🙏🏽😊 I'll try this out ASAP!
Welcome to our channel Joshua. Good luck with the IAC testing and cleaning.
You are the best as far as explaining very good video you're taking your time I can understand you you are awesome keep up the good work
Thanks Steve for the nice compliment. We appreciate it. Glad you found the video informative. Happy Wrenching!
Thank you Timmy! This is awesome
You're very welcome.
That first small hose you removed going to air box tube near the throttle body mine has oil coming out of it why would it do that its @14:42 on video I have tried everything I could think of to do diag this mysterious oil coming out but nothing about the engine is running ruff so it's running fine not a clue why oil is coming out of this hose
That rubber hose connects to a hard line on the upper plenum and then has another rubber hose that heads towards the back of the engine and connects to a nipple on the backside of the driver side valve cover. On the passenger side valve cover, you have the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) valve and it's job is the following which I borrowed from a website: "The positive crankcase ventilation valve releases exhaust gas and unburned fuel from the engine block into the intake manifold. All engines allow some exhaust gases, unburned fuel and oil to “blow by” the pistons and collect in the crankcase where it produces sludge if not eliminated. Separating the crankcase from the intake manifold, which is a source of varying air pressure, the PCV valve maintains the optimal level of vacuum in the crankcase to extract the products of blow-by as well as potentially damaging moisture".
So, with the PCV valve on the passenger side of the engine, I'm guessing this port on the driver side valve cover is also helping maintain the optimal level of vacuum in the crankcase. I'm suspecting your PCV valve might be a little sticky and maybe it's time to replace it.
@@TimmyTheToolman are we talking about the same hose connects to side of the intake tube close to the throttle body and then connects to top of the plenum it's in the video @14:42 seconds
@@TimmyTheToolman pcv valve was just replaced few months ago
@@AntonioClaudioMichael Yes, the same hose. If you look on the driver side of the motor, you will see another rubber hose connects up to that hard line on the plenum and then connects to a nipple on the back side of the driver side valve cover.
@@AntonioClaudioMichael Gotcha. It sure sounds like excessive pressure is being allowed to build-up and that's why you're seeing oil being forced into that tube. But, since you replaced the PCV valve, I don't know what else you can do.
Good video, testing the pins on my IAC and there isn’t no reading +B and RSC. Only between +B and RSO. Going have to replace it. Vehicle stalls every time on start up. Hopefully this keeps it on, after changing
@@panchoveliz1098 Hope it works out for you.
Great video with excellent description of operation! Thank you!
Appreciate the comment Lane!
Great job!!!! Earned my subscription and like.
@TONYDERU Thanks Tony. Welcome to our channel.
GREAT JOB, GREAT VIDEO, GREAT EXPRESSION. KUDOS AND KEEP IT UP. U GUYZ ARE GOOD.
Thanks for the compliment. We appreciate it. Happy Wrenching!
Awesome tutorial, Thank you for sharing.
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Thank you for showing how clean iac and the trotle body .i have 1997 v6 camry and 1990 truck toyota truck
You're welcome.
The best video on UA-cam
Wow, that's a hell of a compliment. Thanks!
Great explanation of the iac valve!
Thank you!
Thanks and you're very welcome.
Good to see you again hero
I take it you're doing some IAC cleaning today. Good luck with the job.
How to test if no diagnostic port? Working on 2002 Tacoma, manual, 4x4. High Idle. Excessive fuel consumption. Stored po505 code. Thank You for wonderful and informative videos!
Not sure. Maybe take a look under the dash and see if we missed it on a Tacoma. One time when I was looking for it, I couldn't find it.
U just helped me, my 95 Ram has started stalling sometimes at hot idle, and I'm thinking this could be what's going wrong, it's got 175,000 think it's time for a new one
@glenparks5175 Hopefully, the replacement fixes the issue with your truck stalling.
jimmy thanks you are great instructor. you made excellent video.
You're very welcome Reynaldo. Thanks for the compliment. It's actually Timmy though, not Jimmy. Jimmy is my older brother.
i enjoy watching this. fairly easy to understand also+ i hope you have more videos. i appreciate.
We will be making videos for some time to come. Glad you appreciate what we're doing.