As some one else commented, separate the plastic and slide rings between layers them install your rivets, better connections. Also, even though these strips are sealed plastic, I would make sure your plugs are GFCI just in case there was a leak or water somehow got under the taped ends. Maybe a very small chance it would ever happen, but still a chance. I love the Inkbird controllers, use them on my snake tanks.
Does that heater have a UL, ULc, or CSA approval. As a sparky i cannot recommend these heaters, cool concept but at 12volts that's a fire hazard and an accident waiting to happen. Don't use them Joey, just put a sump with a single heater and have it feed all the tanks. So much safer.
I always tell My family if water around the fish tank one morning make sure circuit breaker is off before checking out water leak around aquarium. Water and electricity do not mix. You can not let go of something if electrified. A very small current(milliamp) can stop your heart. You want to buy UL rated electrical especially around water. GFI plugs around aquariums. GFI trip at Milliamps not amps. Circuit breakers protect hardware not people ware. One reason gfi in bathrooms and kitchens. Gfi required with emergency cutoffs pools and hot tubs.
That looks to be 3 inch flexwatt heat tape. They run around 10w pre foot. You do want to run it on a thermostat as I've seen these melt plastic tubs and can cause a fire. Chad from Pro exotics (owner of ship your reptiles) can attest to this as his facility burnt down for this reason.
Did that 8y ago for my ball pythons rack system and with thermostat works perfect,heating my computer table in winter too,lol Just glue it under the table with aluminum tape,thanks for sharing
I remember a guy with a tropical fish aquarium shop and he was open 7 days a week, 365 days a year. He had a wonderful tank system, with heaters and flow pumps. He was afraid to leave them alone for a day. He had never had a holiday. I introduced him to the "Uninterruptible Power Supply" system that is used for computer server situations. He finally had some time for himself.
From my experience it's a bad idea to put metal temperature sensors into water, because the corrosion will destroy the resistance voltage of the sensor. This will end up to a very imprecise temperature probe resultat very soon.
Just a warning that the style of thermostat probe is not meant to be submerged. The brand sells submersible probes meant for aquariums made of plastic. Though the metal ones can work they may break and cook your aquarium.
That is incorrect, the metal end thermostat probe is just a newer model Vs the plastic one as the plastic one had many issues with holding a water seal and reliability. They advertise the use of water submersion for the model he is showing.
In the answered question under that model from the manufacture they say not to put it underwater and refer you to their plastic probes. Maybe they were wrong? @@RVA_Aus
Hey, i love your videos and a big fan. ❤ I feel sorry that you are loosing views. Please realise where you are missing on. We would like to see 1. Consistency in video upload days.. 2. Regular updates on EVERY tank.. including the Coral tank/ Clown fish tank etc. 3. We want to see how tank evolves with time.. and not just frequent new tank setups. Thanks for inspiring. Great work! 🌟✌🏻😊
I wonder about the efficiency of this vs. heating a volume of water and exchanging it between tanks. Glass is a pretty poor heat conductor so even though some heat will seep through I wonder how much will be lost to the environment and soaked up by the HVAC system.
I wouldn't build it this way. If for some reason, the temperature sensor gets removed from the aquarium, all the fish will be cooked. In particular, if you have kids or cats running around. And you know this will happen.
That thermostat wont stop the heater getting to 50 degrees. Itll run at 50 degrees until the tank water hits the set temp then go off, then come back on etc. Please be careful running these
50c is not too hot for... Well, anything around this really. I mean, I regularly work in 50C temps. Plastic isn't going to melt, wood is definitely not going to burn. These are commonly used in the terrarium space in the same manner (except without the thermal mass and conductivity provided by water) without problems.
Heating pads for fish tanks are dangerous, these are exposed pads, for dry areas with humidity less than 50%, not too much cause of concern.. however, encloused areas with aquariums usually have moisture over 50-60% and unless you're controlling that somehow (making sure moisture is never over 50%), this is a terrible idea.
As some one else commented, separate the plastic and slide rings between layers them install your rivets, better connections.
Also, even though these strips are sealed plastic, I would make sure your plugs are GFCI just in case there was a leak or water somehow got under the taped ends. Maybe a very small chance it would ever happen, but still a chance.
I love the Inkbird controllers, use them on my snake tanks.
If you slide the ring terminal to between the copper and plastic layer you will have a little better conductivity to the heat tape
Does that heater have a UL, ULc, or CSA approval.
As a sparky i cannot recommend these heaters, cool concept but at 12volts that's a fire hazard and an accident waiting to happen.
Don't use them Joey, just put a sump with a single heater and have it feed all the tanks. So much safer.
Was wondering the same myself.
Great solution for the beta rack. Joey thanks for the information.
I always tell
My family if water around the fish tank one morning make sure circuit breaker is off before checking out water leak around aquarium. Water and electricity do not mix. You can not let go of something if electrified. A very small current(milliamp) can stop your heart. You want to buy UL rated electrical especially around water. GFI plugs around aquariums. GFI trip at Milliamps not amps. Circuit breakers protect hardware not people ware. One reason gfi in bathrooms and kitchens. Gfi required with emergency cutoffs pools and hot tubs.
A 15 amp circuit 120v x 15= 1800 watts max. Probably less than that for safety. 20 amp circuit 120x20=2400 watts max
That looks to be 3 inch flexwatt heat tape. They run around 10w pre foot. You do want to run it on a thermostat as I've seen these melt plastic tubs and can cause a fire. Chad from Pro exotics (owner of ship your reptiles) can attest to this as his facility burnt down for this reason.
Did that 8y ago for my ball pythons rack system and with thermostat works perfect,heating my computer table in winter too,lol
Just glue it under the table with aluminum tape,thanks for sharing
I like this. Better than the over excited fish feeding. better than the old-school bank background cove and tank only. this was good
This is the only channel whose notification I cannot ignore. Love from India❤
The heating strip is cool and all but those custom Mullen cup holders with beer bottle openers are awesome lol
That’s a rear window defroster! Brilliant!
Yup. You found my secret 😂 Good for you to share. You sir are a better man than me 😂
We’re you a tailor in you last life? Leather punchers, grommets haha real DIYselfer 😂
Aint it better to heat up a sump, like circulating all betta tanks in a bigger tank? Though it will eat more space but that will be a 2 in 1 system?
I remember a guy with a tropical fish aquarium shop and he was open 7 days a week, 365 days a year. He had a wonderful tank system, with heaters and flow pumps. He was afraid to leave them alone for a day. He had never had a holiday. I introduced him to the "Uninterruptible Power Supply" system that is used for computer server situations. He finally had some time for himself.
From my experience it's a bad idea to put metal temperature sensors into water, because the corrosion will destroy the resistance voltage of the sensor. This will end up to a very imprecise temperature probe resultat very soon.
Cool idea
Just a warning that the style of thermostat probe is not meant to be submerged. The brand sells submersible probes meant for aquariums made of plastic. Though the metal ones can work they may break and cook your aquarium.
That is incorrect, the metal end thermostat probe is just a newer model Vs the plastic one as the plastic one had many issues with holding a water seal and reliability. They advertise the use of water submersion for the model he is showing.
In the answered question under that model from the manufacture they say not to put it underwater and refer you to their plastic probes. Maybe they were wrong? @@RVA_Aus
This reminds me of the time I used your d.i.y to built a ato and flooded my work computer 😂
Very cool
You love building things so you would have helped her any way 😉
Hey, i love your videos and a big fan. ❤ I feel sorry that you are loosing views. Please realise where you are missing on. We would like to see
1. Consistency in video upload days..
2. Regular updates on EVERY tank.. including the Coral tank/ Clown fish tank etc.
3. We want to see how tank evolves with time.. and not just frequent new tank setups.
Thanks for inspiring. Great work! 🌟✌🏻😊
You don't have positive and negative in your wall sockets, it's AC, not DC.
Fish keeping meet’s reptile keeping
An excellent way to burn down a house!
I wonder about the efficiency of this vs. heating a volume of water and exchanging it between tanks. Glass is a pretty poor heat conductor so even though some heat will seep through I wonder how much will be lost to the environment and soaked up by the HVAC system.
❤❤❤
👍🏼👍🏻
I wouldn't build it this way. If for some reason, the temperature sensor gets removed from the aquarium, all the fish will be cooked. In particular, if you have kids or cats running around. And you know this will happen.
What happens when you over full your tanks and it gets wet?
Also do you think it may degrade the acrylic over time?
Nothing? It's plastic covered.
@@Wintersdark yes apart from ends.
That thermostat wont stop the heater getting to 50 degrees. Itll run at 50 degrees until the tank water hits the set temp then go off, then come back on etc.
Please be careful running these
50c is not too hot for... Well, anything around this really. I mean, I regularly work in 50C temps. Plastic isn't going to melt, wood is definitely not going to burn. These are commonly used in the terrarium space in the same manner (except without the thermal mass and conductivity provided by water) without problems.
Heaters are affordable. Just buy a heater.
He'd need to buy like a dozen heaters as this is for a whole lot of small rimless Betta tanks, then deal with a dozen power cords.
Heating pads for fish tanks are dangerous, these are exposed pads, for dry areas with humidity less than 50%, not too much cause of concern.. however, encloused areas with aquariums usually have moisture over 50-60% and unless you're controlling that somehow (making sure moisture is never over 50%), this is a terrible idea.
The terminal connections are neither positive or negative, it is alternating current.😊
I just boil water and dump it in my tanks to heat them. That or put them on the stove.
It would be better if she was doing this