you are a very straight guy, you picked up that there was a rebar missing, others may have said that's ok but you never cut corners. I have been in the game all my life and see the good AND the bad ones. Greetings from Australia
As usual great prep and finishing of slab never any drama with your firm just competence too bad your not in my area, I use visqueen as a drying preventor for 28 days to achieve a wet cure and prevent most cracking eliminating the need to saw cut smaller than a 40' grid. I now also add 3lbs/per yard of I prefer 3/4"-1.25" basalt fibre mixed just prior to placement, mandatory no more than 10-15 minutes in truck prior to placement for fibre mixing if using fibreglass fibres for extra crack prevention. All pours are vibrated. As an owner developer of commercial space I can and always do to build for 100 year minimum service life. I never load any slabs until fully cured 28 days which as the owner is part of my specs. No cracks and no cutting I' been doing this since the late 70's and have a long history of using dry mixes and vibrating all floor placements to achieve the most strength for each pour when I test occasionally I usually get about 4K+ PSI for 2500 PSI grade delivered concrete, making the extra efforts needed to work dry mixes and wet curing more than pay for this method. I have in the last five years I've gone to using basalt 4" mesh or tied besalt rebar (w/tie wraps.) no spalling ever. Ray
Hey Bondo. Good to hear you guys are busy. You got a great crew. The slab and block turned out great. Good call on three course of block. Makes building the walls easier. Good to see my little buddy. Time for a cold one.
Your concrete laying and finishing looked very good. Nice to see great construction work! Although, it looked like there were a few spots where the mesh did not get lifted very high. This is a common problem that I have seen because lifting the mesh once you pour any concrete on top of it is almost impossible. I believe that it would be best if, as soon as the concrete arrives, one worker should lift a spot of mesh up and a second worker should put a shovel full of concrete right next to where the mesh was lifted. This should be done about every two feet in all direction. This can be done for several feet in all directions before pouring any concrete. This will hold the mesh off the ground when concrete is placed. I hope this idea will help to get the mesh in the bottom third of the concrete!
I’d work with you guys any day. If you’d have me. I like your pace. Keep moving. Don’t kill yourself. Like a long haul trucker. Set the cruise at 70 and just keep moving all day long. Very nice job. Plumb and straight block walls. Love how you caught that missing rebar. Good eye. Cool video. Thanks for taking me along for the day.
Pole barns are (understandably) becoming a thing of the past in my area. Our soils experience numerous freeze-thaw cycles and we get a lot of moisture in general. It's a bad environment for any building system which puts wood in or near the ground.
@@patricklandis3910 when lumber is milled you open the grain. It doesn't matter if you treat it below ground and use pt it will dry put and absorb moisture during spring and fall and dry out during summer and winter and rot.
@ yeah maybe after thirty years or more I’ve seen barns with treated post last a lone time. See I’ve done soooo many floating slabs it’s not the best choice unless you have very good soil and, I don’t mean clay as being a good soil
I seen that also, from my observation lifting the mesh once you pour any concrete on top of it is almost impossible. I believe that it would be best if as soon as the concrete arrives, one worker should lift a spot of mesh up and a second worker should put a shovel full of concrete right next to where the mesh was lifted. This should be done about every two feet in all direction. This can be done for several feet in all directions. This will hold the mesh off the ground when concrete is placed. I hope this idea will help to get the mesh in the bottom third of the concrete!
@@gazwaldofetonsville115 the metal supposed to be deep enough into the concrete so that it can't get air to it. Otherwise it rusts and expands, eventually blowing the concrete apart. I'm just an engineer and not an installer so, I don't know how it is accomplished but it appears they walked on top of the mesh, mashing it to the bottom. Maybe the mesh isn't thick enough to blow the concrete and the rebar was lifted high enough. It'd seem if you flipped this slab over that there'd be exposed metal on the bottom.
@@burtreynolds3143 If they put concrete under several spots and the concrete sets up a bit it will have a better chance of remaining off the ground. It would be best to use a dryer mix for this purpose.
Ive been watching your vids and some of your slabs are very intricate. Some have heat and a trench, not a French but a trench! I just need to find someone that may have the right answers. After looking at all you do, I think I found the right one with the answers. Please and 🙏. I need to pour a 10’x40’ - 12x48’ 4” slab with 3/8 rebar on top 3/4 rock. Will that rock under the slab give drainage under the barn when it rains. Could I pour it in sections and is there a way to create a grade and slope so rinse water goes out one spicific side as to rinse down the slab.
Mesh Police are strong in the comments section, pity most don't watch the video properly as they'd have seen you lifting the mesh up as you were pouring & later between the first & second pour. My thoughts are that I hope people aren't taking advantage of your good nature Ron, by prepping half-arsed knowing you'll do the prep properly in your time & cost. 👍
Great job on the pour and on the block wall. Are you considering teaching Biscuit to do those block corners? Having two men who can do corners will speed up every job and can allow two jobs to progress at once. Just my thought on growing the business and future proofing your crew. Anyway, good luck to you guys!
You have convinced me, that I need to hire this job out ! How could one person manage the 18.5 yards of concrete ? It was obvious to me, go 3 courses around, glad the home owner changed his mind. What should one budget for a 40 by 28 ? My code guy wants me to auger down to undisturbed soil for my supports (poles). I have fill "material" just for part of the area I would like to put a garage on, for a lift.
Looks nice! i wish I would have built my whole shop out of block. I was born into the Masonry Business, my dad was a Mason, his dad and seven brothers were too. I started going to work with him when I was about 5 years old. I was a Hod Carrier a little later until I was a junior in high school and had pushed my way onto the wall and laid brick and block until I was almost 20. I was in an auto accident driving to the job one morning and I broke my back, (paralyzed) so that ended my Masonry career. I see things now that we never did or had? I always mixed Lonestar with sand and some of your string block look pretty fancy. We used wood corner blocks and the straightest 2x4 to run a string that we marked. I went to college and then into the white-collar world and hated every minute of it. I just laugh when construction workers tell me how good people in air conditioning sitting behind a desk have it. In my experience I would have rather broke concrete with a sledge hammer on a hundred degree day in the sun for the last 30 years than be in an air conditioned cage. I would have done things differently if I could. I would have done all the bidding and running to get materials. I don't see any real brick or block in the Midwest anymore. All Faux by 10 guys that hop out of a van every day.
Nice stuff. Two questions. 1) can you show the interior framing and how they attached it to the block? 2) Why would you opt to do 3 courses of block and not pour a solid wall that tall? I'm not a mason so I have no idea and am curious. Just trying to figure out how I may want to build mine in the future. Thanks again!
Nice work. What is the frost depth in the area where this job is being done? I think I heard in the video that it was in New York State. I suspect the frost depth is at least 3 feet, maybe 4 or 5 feet. Does the monolithic slab allow you to bypass putting concrete down to that depth?
Interesting how the guys pull up the screen so the concrete (as it's being poured) gets under it. Then they walk on the screen as they're finishing/leveling the concrete. Seems that the screen ends up on the bottom anyway
I hired two guys to put an apron on the front of my building and in the back to the edge of the building in about 3 feet. So we paid the guy and it wasn't 2 days when the concrete company calls me to pay them. So I called the contractor and he says he will pay them in 2 days. So I guess he paid them. While the driver was there he asks me where he should clean his truck, so I tell him to put it over by the fence which was just on the other side of his truck. He cleans it out right in the yard. Whatever! So then I had to pick it up so not to ruin the lawnmower blades.
Did one 3 courses after jacking the garage up and extending 5', a little easier this way, LOL nice job. I have one question for ya, the mixer is low and how do you get the mud in the wheel barrel, I put the mixer on blocks which is never fun????
Great craftsmanship! What laser kit are using and how do you like it? Looks like a Spectra Precision LL100N Laser Level, Self-Leveling laser with HR320 Receiver, C59 Rod Clamp.
Slab Definitely not done correctly. No spacer blocks tied in to float the wire or the rebar. The monolithic usually calls for L-shaped rebar to tie the wire to the rebar. Block work wasn’t bad. You could’ve done your Customer a favor and put a Ufer ground in the concrete. He’s probably going to have an electrical panel.
I see on your dump trailer that you are missing your dust cap on the front axle driver side, I know they are a pain to find the right size. Without one on there you increase the chances of wiping out your bearings on that side and causing a potential downtime incident.
I thought that for a monolithic slab, the bottom edges (perimeter) had to be below the freeze line? What’s the freeze line where you’re at? I’d go 3 course all the way around too. Ain’t much more to be uniform. JMO though. Good work… overall. You’re doing some old school stuff there. Also, if you want a professional that knows how to tie in vertical steel dowels to hit block cells, then contact me. Drilling is amateur at best, but still…better than most. Use epoxy on the verts and you’re good. 👍🏻
In a situation like this, would it be economical to just fill the entire thing with concrete as opposed to spending the labor and fill to build up the middle?
So maybe I'm confused but it looks like you got guys that pulled the bar up and then you turn around and had another guy walking in there squishing it right back down to the bottom so your wire and mesh is laying on top of your plastic and underneath your concrete. It looks like a beautiful pad. It looks like a beautiful Pad but it also looks like you guys walk back and pushed all your bar right down to the bottom.
@@SystemsPlanetin other videos he demonstrates clearly that it does stay up where it should be but in every video someone always complains it’s not done right. I’ve watched enough videos of these guys to be confident they are making sure the mesh is raised up and inside the concrete.
I had the same observation. 4-5 guys all standing and walking on it. Maybe we're both confused. Check the depth of cement on their boots. Whatever that depth = same as the mesh.
Why didn't they put the garage next to the house? They could have attached it. Here in the NorthEast we pour the stem walls 4' down, then we pour the floor.
No the footer is integral to the slab and it is esentaly a floating slab so you do not need frost protection. I have poured 100's of these mono slabs and they never move
first thing to do is spray water on the floor and make sure it doesnt run to the wall for when you wash your vehicle. been there.....for the flies get a dryer sheet and attach to a straw hat, friend sprays the hat with lysol as well, You can get clear adhesive fly strip sheets at Dollar stores and put it sticky side up on the hat, Flies go right for it and stick.. By noon its full
What I see is moisture wicking at the stab and first course into the garage. And after the first freeze, separation from the slab and block, and cracks in the block joints the following year. No rebar and no poured corners. I'll pass
There's not a whole lot of savings there is a lot in time but a monolithic is poor is stronger if you can add your floor and your footer into one. But a house has to be down at least 42 in our area the northern states and the southern area you can do more with a monolithic poor.
Stopped seeing deer flies in my area, I'm not complaining, don't know the reason maybe just getting too old for them. I even live in a wooded area here in Ohio.
Gotta think the guy is better off buying dirt and your labor to make the subgrade right rather than buy more concrete. Do clients have to buy all materials placed? Great example, thanks.
I can't believe people pay all that money for a pad, and don't put a pad for the man door entrance? That may not apply to this guy, but in general. I have seen Ken's Karpentry for about 40 garages without.
the wwm (welded wire mesh) is doing absolutely nothing. it is laying on the bottom. I've cut more than 50 slabs where they had wwm and they said they pulled it up. well that does not work. the wwm will always be on the bottom. same for the rebar.. if you do not support rebar (or wwm) on chairs it will be on the bottom. wwm is a waste of money. use fibre reinforced concrete instead of wwm.
I highly suspect you have fantastic content and do even better work; however, PLEASE buy a tripod, they're cheap. Ok, now that you've been encouraged I'm gonna go puke from motion sickness ;-0~~~~
you are a very straight guy, you picked up that there was a rebar missing, others may have said that's ok but you never cut corners. I have been in the game all my life and see the good AND the bad ones. Greetings from Australia
As usual great prep and finishing of slab never any drama with your firm just competence too bad your not in my area, I use visqueen as a drying preventor for 28 days to achieve a wet cure and prevent most cracking eliminating the need to saw cut smaller than a 40' grid. I now also add 3lbs/per yard of I prefer 3/4"-1.25" basalt fibre mixed just prior to placement, mandatory no more than 10-15 minutes in truck prior to placement for fibre mixing if using fibreglass fibres for extra crack prevention. All pours are vibrated. As an owner developer of commercial space I can and always do to build for 100 year minimum service life. I never load any slabs until fully cured 28 days which as the owner is part of my specs. No cracks and no cutting I' been doing this since the late 70's and have a long history of using dry mixes and vibrating all floor placements to achieve the most strength for each pour when I test occasionally I usually get about 4K+ PSI for 2500 PSI grade delivered concrete, making the extra efforts needed to work dry mixes and wet curing more than pay for this method. I have in the last five years I've gone to using basalt 4" mesh or tied besalt rebar (w/tie wraps.)
no spalling ever. Ray
Hey Bondo. Good to hear you guys are busy. You got a great crew. The slab and block turned out great. Good call on three course of block. Makes building the walls easier. Good to see my little buddy. Time for a cold one.
Your concrete laying and finishing looked very good. Nice to see great construction work!
Although, it looked like there were a few spots where the mesh did not get lifted very high. This is a common problem that I have seen because lifting the mesh once you pour any concrete on top of it is almost impossible. I believe that it would be best if, as soon as the concrete arrives, one worker should lift a spot of mesh up and a second worker should put a shovel full of concrete right next to where the mesh was lifted. This should be done about every two feet in all direction. This can be done for several feet in all directions before pouring any concrete. This will hold the mesh off the ground when concrete is placed. I hope this idea will help to get the mesh in the bottom third of the concrete!
I did my 26x38 3 car garage the same way a few years ago…with hydronic heat in the floor…it’s working great
I’d work with you guys any day. If you’d have me. I like your pace. Keep moving. Don’t kill yourself. Like a long haul trucker. Set the cruise at 70 and just keep moving all day long. Very nice job. Plumb and straight block walls. Love how you caught that missing rebar. Good eye. Cool video. Thanks for taking me along for the day.
You the MAN. And my boy ROW .👍🏻🐶🇺🇸
I like the cone tip. We have to use something else in TX though because there are traffic cones everywhere. They never finish road construction here.
Bondo excellent scheduling men, material and equipment.
Beautiful work guys!
Nice work. Gonna be a nice place
Very good teamwork.
Iv never seen gravel that color before very cool I live in Pittsburgh all are stuff is gray
Pole barns are (understandably) becoming a thing of the past in my area. Our soils experience numerous freeze-thaw cycles and we get a lot of moisture in general. It's a bad environment for any building system which puts wood in or near the ground.
I live in Michigan. I’ve never had a problem. You just gotta make sure your post blow frost line and make sure you’re not pouring your slab on clay
@@patricklandis3910 when lumber is milled you open the grain. It doesn't matter if you treat it below ground and use pt it will dry put and absorb moisture during spring and fall and dry out during summer and winter and rot.
@ yeah maybe after thirty years or more I’ve seen barns with treated post last a lone time. See I’ve done soooo many floating slabs it’s not the best choice unless you have very good soil and, I don’t mean clay as being a good soil
great job Bondo !!!! ty for posting
Good day, good crew! Looks good!
What’s Up Bondo n Crew Hope ur All Doing Good.
I Needed Something Good To Watch Thanks for the Video n Great Job.🤙🔥🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Very nice work!
You got me hooked on saying "hmmmmm" all the time 😂 and "here comes the mud!!"
I don't know if you watch these videos, but it's pretty clear that your guys do not lift the wire mesh when pouring. See 17:36
I seen that also, from my observation lifting the mesh once you pour any concrete on top of it is almost impossible. I believe that it would be best if as soon as the concrete arrives, one worker should lift a spot of mesh up and a second worker should put a shovel full of concrete right next to where the mesh was lifted. This should be done about every two feet in all direction. This can be done for several feet in all directions. This will hold the mesh off the ground when concrete is placed. I hope this idea will help to get the mesh in the bottom third of the concrete!
Seems like a big waste of money putting mesh in there as it was not lifted, so it’s just sitting on the bottom of the concrete 🤷♂️
@@gazwaldofetonsville115 the metal supposed to be deep enough into the concrete so that it can't get air to it. Otherwise it rusts and expands, eventually blowing the concrete apart. I'm just an engineer and not an installer so, I don't know how it is accomplished but it appears they walked on top of the mesh, mashing it to the bottom. Maybe the mesh isn't thick enough to blow the concrete and the rebar was lifted high enough. It'd seem if you flipped this slab over that there'd be exposed metal on the bottom.
@@kendaleklund7475 Doesn't it get mashed back down when they walk on it while screeding ?
@@burtreynolds3143 If they put concrete under several spots and the concrete sets up a bit it will have a better chance of remaining off the ground. It would be best to use a dryer mix for this purpose.
Great job
That truck driver did half the work. Nice job
@@davidderoode7691 I take care of those truck drivers 😊
Ive been watching your vids and some of your slabs are very intricate. Some have heat and a trench, not a French but a trench!
I just need to find someone that may have the right answers. After looking at all you do, I think I found the right one with the answers. Please and 🙏.
I need to pour a 10’x40’ - 12x48’ 4” slab with 3/8 rebar on top 3/4 rock. Will that rock under the slab give drainage under the barn when it rains. Could I pour it in sections and is there a way to create a grade and slope so rinse water goes out one spicific side as to rinse down the slab.
I have the same size dump trailer as you I think it’s the perfect size . I loan it out to my friends and they say the same thing .
Do you have to have 40" or so of stone under the outside edges to accommodate for the frost line? (Footer)
Mesh Police are strong in the comments section, pity most don't watch the video properly as they'd have seen you lifting the mesh up as you were pouring & later between the first & second pour.
My thoughts are that I hope people aren't taking advantage of your good nature Ron, by prepping half-arsed knowing you'll do the prep properly in your time & cost. 👍
Great job on the pour and on the block wall. Are you considering teaching Biscuit to do those block corners? Having two men who can do corners will speed up every job and can allow two jobs to progress at once. Just my thought on growing the business and future proofing your crew. Anyway, good luck to you guys!
Great job.
This is how we use to do the slab in Sweden, i did mine 25 year ago, not a crack until this day, its my garage/ shop
3 blocks all the way around. Keeping the framework up off ground will be easier to frame and it snows here in the northeast.
Top job 👍👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧Manchester England 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧👊🎥
Nice job bro...😊
You have convinced me, that I need to hire this job out ! How could one person manage the 18.5 yards of concrete ? It was obvious to me, go 3 courses around, glad the home owner changed his mind. What should one budget for a 40 by 28 ? My code guy wants me to auger down to undisturbed soil for my supports (poles). I have fill "material" just for part of the area I would like to put a garage on, for a lift.
1. One person 18 yards impossible. Unless you just wanted a big mess.
2. Check with the lift manufacturer for prep specifications, might need footers
Nice work as usual
How do u glue the rebar into slab? No uplift . We set L-bars in the wet slab at least
@@vettepicking we do not have to build against uplift here in New York
@bondobuilt386 go above code. Even a side load would push over a rebar in a dry hole....
I like watching the concrete smooth out. ...
Can you explain to me how the rebar stays suspended when you’re walking on them?
Looks nice! i wish I would have built my whole shop out of block. I was born into the Masonry Business, my dad was a Mason, his dad and seven brothers were too. I started going to work with him when I was about 5 years old. I was a Hod Carrier a little later until I was a junior in high school and had pushed my way onto the wall and laid brick and block until I was almost 20. I was in an auto accident driving to the job one morning and I broke my back, (paralyzed) so that ended my Masonry career. I see things now that we never did or had? I always mixed Lonestar with sand and some of your string block look pretty fancy. We used wood corner blocks and the straightest 2x4 to run a string that we marked. I went to college and then into the white-collar world and hated every minute of it. I just laugh when construction workers tell me how good people in air conditioning sitting behind a desk have it. In my experience I would have rather broke concrete with a sledge hammer on a hundred degree day in the sun for the last 30 years than be in an air conditioned cage. I would have done things differently if I could. I would have done all the bidding and running to get materials. I don't see any real brick or block in the Midwest anymore. All Faux by 10 guys that hop out of a van every day.
Willie Wacker is a handy little feller
I see how the team is set up, two blue shirts screeders and two mud positioners and one yellow standby. Like Naval a/c operations.
Nice stuff. Two questions. 1) can you show the interior framing and how they attached it to the block? 2) Why would you opt to do 3 courses of block and not pour a solid wall that tall? I'm not a mason so I have no idea and am curious. Just trying to figure out how I may want to build mine in the future. Thanks again!
Good job.
Nice work. What is the frost depth in the area where this job is being done? I think I heard in the video that it was in New York State. I suspect the frost depth is at least 3 feet, maybe 4 or 5 feet. Does the monolithic slab allow you to bypass putting concrete down to that depth?
A mono slab is a floating slab and they hold up extremely well and our frost is 4 feet deep
Thanks 👍
Same here in western MA. 4 feet. Does it meet code?
That's the way we do it!
Here comes the mud
21 👍's up BB thank you for sharing 🤗
Interesting how the guys pull up the screen so the concrete (as it's being poured) gets under it. Then they walk on the screen as they're finishing/leveling the concrete. Seems that the screen ends up on the bottom anyway
I hired two guys to put an apron on the front of my building and in the back to the edge of the building in about 3 feet. So we paid the guy and it wasn't 2 days when the concrete company calls me to pay them. So I called the contractor and he says he will pay them in 2 days. So I guess he paid them. While the driver was there he asks me where he should clean his truck, so I tell him to put it over by the fence which was just on the other side of his truck. He cleans it out right in the yard. Whatever! So then I had to pick it up so not to ruin the lawnmower blades.
Construction is like giving birth--you make a mess!
You guys make it look way to easy.
Did one 3 courses after jacking the garage up and extending 5', a little easier this way, LOL nice job.
I have one question for ya, the mixer is low and how do you get the mud in the wheel barrel, I put the mixer on blocks which is never fun????
Great craftsmanship! What laser kit are using and how do you like it? Looks like a Spectra Precision LL100N Laser Level, Self-Leveling laser with HR320 Receiver, C59 Rod Clamp.
Slab Definitely not done correctly. No spacer blocks tied in to float the wire or the rebar. The monolithic usually calls for L-shaped rebar to tie the wire to the rebar. Block work wasn’t bad. You could’ve done your Customer a favor and put a Ufer ground in the concrete. He’s probably going to have an electrical panel.
they pull up rebar and then step on it pushing it back down ?
Is there a chance they wanted a little down grade toward the front, for water draining from washing and power washing inside the building?!
I see on your dump trailer that you are missing your dust cap on the front axle driver side, I know they are a pain to find the right size. Without one on there you increase the chances of wiping out your bearings on that side and causing a potential downtime incident.
I thought that for a monolithic slab, the bottom edges (perimeter) had to be below the freeze line? What’s the freeze line where you’re at? I’d go 3 course all the way around too. Ain’t much more to be uniform. JMO though. Good work… overall. You’re doing some old school stuff there. Also, if you want a professional that knows how to tie in vertical steel dowels to hit block cells, then contact me. Drilling is amateur at best, but still…better than most. Use epoxy on the verts and you’re good. 👍🏻
Hey Ron, how do you square up the foundation?
Also wondering why the dirt or sand under the slab? Does the plastic take the place of the gravel?
In a situation like this, would it be economical to just fill the entire thing with concrete as opposed to spending the labor and fill to build up the middle?
So maybe I'm confused but it looks like you got guys that pulled the bar up and then you turn around and had another guy walking in there squishing it right back down to the bottom so your wire and mesh is laying on top of your plastic and underneath your concrete. It looks like a beautiful pad. It looks like a beautiful Pad but it also looks like you guys walk back and pushed all your bar right down to the bottom.
Your kidding right? The rock in the mud keeps the wire from going back down
@@SystemsPlanetin other videos he demonstrates clearly that it does stay up where it should be but in every video someone always complains it’s not done right. I’ve watched enough videos of these guys to be confident they are making sure the mesh is raised up and inside the concrete.
I had the same observation. 4-5 guys all standing and walking on it. Maybe we're both confused.
Check the depth of cement on their boots. Whatever that depth = same as the mesh.
What is the point of lifting up the mesh and rebar and then walking all over the top of it? Doesn't that mash it back down to the moisture barrier ?
My thoughts exactly. They make chairs to support this for a reason.
Do you use concrete or mortar to core fill?
So you're doing a garage with higher cement blocks. Hopefully you have or will have it graded so water doesn't run into garage opening. The basics !
Where do the cement layers advertise? I was able to find a real small guy with 2 guys for a small concrete job.
Why didn't they put the garage next to the house? They could have attached it. Here in the NorthEast we pour the stem walls 4' down, then we pour the floor.
What is the name of the red thing you left in the concrete? Is it fibreglass?
No footer /frost barrier needed?
No the footer is integral to the slab and it is esentaly a floating slab so you do not need frost protection. I have poured 100's of these mono slabs and they never move
No frost protection?
Thanks
didnt see the mesh getting lifted tho
That's neat !
Not to be rude, but, if you didnt get the initial dig correct, how do you know the fill will be correct???
Why not use gravel rather than dirt for fill? Dirt settles, no?
first thing to do is spray water on the floor and make sure it doesnt run to the wall for when you wash your vehicle. been there.....for the flies get a dryer sheet and attach to a straw hat, friend sprays the hat with lysol as well, You can get clear adhesive fly strip sheets at Dollar stores and put it sticky side up on the hat, Flies go right for it and stick.. By noon its full
bondo, what laser you use?
Wire is on bottom why put it in?
What I see is moisture wicking at the stab and first course into the garage. And after the first freeze, separation from the slab and block, and cracks in the block joints the following year. No rebar and no poured corners. I'll pass
Is there much savings over full foundation over Monolithic
There's not a whole lot of savings there is a lot in time but a monolithic is poor is stronger if you can add your floor and your footer into one. But a house has to be down at least 42 in our area the northern states and the southern area you can do more with a monolithic poor.
wire mesh doesn't do any good underneath the slab...saw that it was picked up once but also saw not being picked up
Pouring the stem walls as in a true monolithic pour, would not have been cheaper?
Why doesn't Ro's brother go to work?
should had flattened the dirt dug footers leveled inside a lot easyer than hauling and filling thumpering
Stopped seeing deer flies in my area, I'm not complaining, don't know the reason maybe just getting too old for them. I even live in a wooded area here in Ohio.
Didn’t see any wire mesh being lifted.
it's always 2 and go on the corners i guess to don't use wire lol
3 courses was the right decision not stepping it. I think 2 would have been fine. Framer will be thankful.
wire on the bottom again
Yeah I was going to put up another garage concrete 225 a yard and a block $2 a block for 8 by 16s ridiculous
Pole barns have diff regulations than something with a foundation, not to mention, your adding a good $6k to the build!!
You tell them where to go, but be nice!
You caught the missing rebar....
type M BELOW GRADE INSPECTOR ALERT LOL, nice 2 load made it, type S 1800? type M 2500 type N 650?
Heavy duty blocks.
Gotta think the guy is better off buying dirt and your labor to make the subgrade right rather than buy more concrete. Do clients have to buy all materials placed? Great example, thanks.
Nothing gets by him. The minute he drives away from the job site they crack open the hidden brewskies..oh wait..that’s me..😝
@7:33 bathroom break?
Dude taking a leak in the background is funny a/f....
I can't believe people pay all that money for a pad, and don't put a pad for the man door entrance? That may not apply to this guy, but in general. I have seen Ken's Karpentry for about 40 garages without.
the wwm (welded wire mesh) is doing absolutely nothing. it is laying on the bottom. I've cut more than 50 slabs where they had wwm and they said they pulled it up. well that does not work. the wwm will always be on the bottom. same for the rebar.. if you do not support rebar (or wwm) on chairs it will be on the bottom. wwm is a waste of money. use fibre reinforced concrete instead of wwm.
Correct- wire is garbage just to dupe the customer!
I highly suspect you have fantastic content and do even better work; however, PLEASE buy a tripod, they're cheap. Ok, now that you've been encouraged I'm gonna go puke from motion sickness ;-0~~~~
Pole barns are stupid unless youre covering hay or farm equipment