I had the same problem on a 97 SC2 with the twin Overhead cam motor... I replaced the Idle air control valve and it is fixed! Runs ALOT better, smoother, etc...
1. Clean the throttle plate and intake manifold with Cleens u get it at ur GM dealer. 2. Get ur IAC, MAP and TPS checked make sure there in there operating ranges. 3. See if ur intake is cracked and listen for vacuum leaks.
You have 400k more miles in this car. Vacuum lines, TPS, IAC, EGR, Evap, plugs, fuel filter, oil relief for pistons, and clutch sleeve for manual trans. Amongst other stuff. I know this car very well.
DUDE!!!! no way. i had the same problem with my '96 SC1. Heres what i did, i unplugged the throttle position sensor. the only thing with that is you got to keep your foot on the gas for a few seconds when ya start it. It was wasting so much gas that i couldnt take it. But its all good now man. The thing runs like a champ.
I went through lots of idle problems and fixes over the last 2 years on my 2001 SC2, including the EGR, IACV, TPS, ECTS, TB buildup... so I was very frustrated when last week I started having this exact idle problem. Long story short I almost bought a 2nd IACV when I found this vid and zxcv43210727's reply. Disconnected the battery for 3 minutes and runs great now! Thanks! And thanks Dave for keeping the vid up for so long! ps: The solution makes me think this might be a computer problem.
Good solution. lol. Just an fyi - I changed the thermostat yesterday because the car wasn't heating up - less than 1/4 - and the problem seems to be gone. I'll let you know if it stays gone. I can't see your temp gauge in the video, but it looks like you might have the same problem. Worth a try, and cheap.
Jus for reference, the line going to the coolant "expansion" tank is a coolant return line. Coolant runs through the intake manifold after the heater core and keeps the manifold/tb warm so it don't build up condensation inside and so it don't freeze over inside during colder temps season
I was a technician at Saturn the most common thing was the hose going to the pcv and using an aftermarket pcv the aftermarket pcv use the wrong spring. So many times a car came in for this problem after getting work done at a independent shop and it was just a crap aftermarket part. Another common thing was shops using an aftermarket fuel filter some years had the fuel pressure regulator in the filter and the aftermarket filters had too stiff of a spring in the regulator so it would have lower fuel pressure and get a lean code.
Ha ha ha! I am dealing with an idle problem as well. Thank for the vid. Mine works nicely & then every so often, idles weak & stalls (drops below 1000rpm). Too bad there isn't a screw-adjustment on the cable to raise the idle like normal cars & motorcycles.
I've had a 1993 Saturn sc2 for 10 years and its done the exact same thing for the whole time.I've put about 100000 miles on it. It seems to do it more when its cold out.When I hear your car running I could swear it was my car. exactly identical. All summer long it will be fine and on cooler nights it will start doing that. I just wanted to reply to say that it must be a common thing and dont seem to hurt anything, I still get 32 to 35 miles a gallon
the high rpm when you drive until you come to a stop might be the crank ventilation leaking into the valve train from the crank case. start the car with the pcv valve connected. take off the the oil cap and feel for ANY pressure at all coming out of the oil fill cap. if there is... then there is a more serious mechanical malfunction like, head gasket, valve guides or valve seals. my SC1 saturn had almost the same problem.
PCV Hose. Same problem with my 91 SL1. Start it, Parked idle is 2,000 RPM. After replacing, Parked Idle was at about 800 RPM. If it's not your PCV, it's some sort of Vacuum leak, and you should do a smoke test.
i would say that an Egr problem exsists with sticky carbonized pintle valves. val guides and seals are usually the culprit and help with the burning of the oil ergo Carbon. check the vent valve on your valve cover and boom. neet
Mine started doing this after I installed an upgrade ( air intake ram ) and filter. I positioned the electronic AIT sensor inside the ram as specified... no change!!
😩😩😩i got the same exact issue and replaced the same exact parts and is still giving me p0122. Tha pvc double hose is discontinued so I had to rig it 😫😫😫 I don’t really wanna mess with the manifold but im gonna have to
If the TPS % doesn't drop back to 0 (on analyzer), this will hold your idle high. Computer thinks that throttle is still open, and adjusts timing accordingly. I replaced my TPS after I couldn't get it to work right anymore, and now the idle drops back to 950-1000 every time I disengage the clutch. On a side note, gas hit a peak of $4/gallon when Bush was president.
Most modern cars with manual transmissions will hold the idle a bit higher when coasting and shifting gears. My 99 SL2 holds it at about 1200 to 1500 when warm, and about 2000 when cold. Check your temperature gauge.
If it doesn't get past the 1/4 mark, then your thermostat is bad. Unfortunately Saturn made a thermostat with a rubber edge on the little door that opens and closes, and this goes bad, preventing the thermostat from closing fully. With this problem the engine won't reach operating temperature, which is about 1/16'' past the 1/4 temp mark. If the needle only gets to the 1/4 mark, your standing idle will be above 900, and coast will be at 2000. Standing idle should be 900 or 850.
BTW only us true saturn lovers know rich pinn..look him up....my saturn is an sc297 no flip up headlights with about 10k of mods saturns are the american answer to honda and saturn owners are why keep buying saturns they rock!!!
It Is The EGR valve. I know you said you replaced it. Cleaning it doesn't cut it. And you got to get a good one too. $124 for AcDelco. Small price to pay to get another 140,000. I tryed cleaning mine too, sometimes it seem to help. But when I finally replaced it with a NEW egr valve, this problem went away and hasn't been back going on 5 years now.
I have saturn 2002 sc2 automatic transmission.. I sense some similarity that the computer is trying to keep it running with automatic. So I think the computer algorithm that keeps the engine running might be based on automatic transmission and it might be trying just to keep engine running at least with a 2000rpm ignoring the fact that you are pressing the clutch as if it is still on transmission. So the algorithm might not have a function that says when the clutch is activated, go to idle at 1000rpm instead of 2000.
EGR valve cleaning or a new engine coolant temp sensor maybe. After that pull the PCM-B fuse out for 30 seconds or so, or disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for 30 seconds. Might also check for a leak around the intake manifold by spraying around the manifold with some carb cleaner while at idle.
95 Saturn sw1, I had the same exact problem, except my would stall one in a while, and my RPMs would go from 1200 or so and just randomly drop to 300, then go back up. I changed the Throttle positioning sensor, no luck. I completely cleaned out to throttle body, no luck. PVC valve, no luck. my spark plugs were completely burned out though, we ended up changing them and it ran like shit, like one of the spark plugs wasn't going. I unplugged the ETCS connector and started it up, BAM fixed!
It seems that your tps is going or is sticking. I had the same issue about a year ago. Changed it and cleaned where it seats in the throttle. And pluged it back in. Also you might want to see if there is a vacume leak @ the intake to throtle body after...
I had a similar problem with my 98 SL1. At one point, the idle wouldn't go under 2000 RPM even when it was out of gear and stopped. I finally turned it off and re-started and it was fine after that. It's done this twice.
Its not the coolant temp making the difference. Its the exhust temp heating up the EGR valve, allowing the worn out EGR valve to function semi properly. This problem is from a week, worn out, sticking EGR valve. And cleaning it won't fix it. Just replace it with a NEW one, and it will feel like you have a new car again.
Am having same issue with 1998 Saturn SL2, I am going to pull the throttle body and clean it, then look at the sensors, EGR valve and not sure where to go from there....hope its one of them:)
1999-2002 S series - Poor ground connection on the small braided ground wire from the ECM to the left strut tower. Solution: Take the ECM mounting bolt that connects the wire out and sand all surfaces and reconnect the braided wire. If that doesn't work try changing throttle position sensor.
EGR valve cleaning or a new engine coolant temp sensor maybe. After that pull the PCM-B fuse out for 30 seconds or so, or disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for 30 seconds.
My 1997 SC2 is currently doing the same thing. I have to stab the throttle (like disengaging the old electric choke carburetors) to bring the idle back to normal when I coast it with the clutch pedal in or with the car in neutral at a stoplight.
Any check engine lights? Does it get up to temp properly? Could be a tps or IAC problem. Throttle plate also can get dirty on back and stick. If you know someone with a Good scantool have them look at the live data while driving it. But I'm gonna say your problem probably lies in the throttle body
@@swagginmcjaggin1078 Update: I went all out. I removed the throttle body and then removed the TPS and the IAC from it and cleaned the throttle body front and back with both Simple Green and brake cleaner. Installed a new TPS, a new IAC, a new MAP sensor and reinstalled the throttle body with a new gasket. Turned the car on and it ran like crap! Drove it about 100 miles and everything synchronized with the PCM and now it runs PERFECT!!
to the video maker, most likely your MAP sensor that is under the throttle body. the MAP sensor should read 14.5 psi if working normally. hook it up to a computer or have someone do it and see what the reading is. 99.9% sure its ur MAP sensor.
This is my daughters acct....my car is doing the same thing 2002 sl 2 Im being told by the shop to trade the car in because they tested it and said the transmission is slipping...Im not trading it because like you, I love my saturn...so I am going to get a new transmission as soon as this one goes...your symptoms will get worse over the next year...just have a plan
Did you unhook the battery to reset the computer. There is also a evaporative charcoal canister solenoid in the large vacuum line from the canister to the throttle body. It regulates the pressure in the fuel tank. Too much pressure, air/fuel mixture rich. Too much vacuum in the tank, air/fuel mixture lean. This inexpensive part can cause all kinds of different false symptoms and trip false codes until it goes totally bad.
Ever get this figured out? I have the same problem with a 2002 automatic. It is a slight nuisance but even worse when you're breaking and downshifting causes it to idle 3K and the next thing you know your ABS is firing off. Ugh..no leaks for me, I think I'm going to try the idle air
I have change the throttle position sensor I have clean out the throttle and I have changed the engine coolant temperature sensor am still having the same problems the only other thing I can think of is the sensor right next to the air Intake But I cannot find this part any help would be greatly appreciated
What's up man, you seem to be the victim of the saturn idle. The most annoying thing~! Mine is doing something similar but not quite. Anyways I think your problem is eazier to handle. I believe its your idle control air valve that is attatched to your throttle body. It's like 40 bucks at a local shop and you can change it yourself. It didnt work for me but like I said I have a different problem. Let me know if you need more direction, I'll help if I can.
I have the exact same problem on a 2000 SL sohc, manual trans. I have replaced everything you have replaced with no luck. I have the ELM computer link and there are no codes. Please let me know if you ever find the problem. I will do the same.
I have a 2002 sc2 and mine does the same thing, my cars automatic and when I turn it on and let it sit for a while at 950 rpm than shoot up to 2500 and stay there and if I put it in drive during this my car reaches 20 mph without me touching anything
i have the same idle problem with my 2001 saturn sc2, it'll idle high somtimes, it'll fluctuate in idling, so what im going to is removed throttle body, and change out both idle position sensor and idle air control motor sensor, both sensors are right next to eachother on throttle body. also clean throttle body.
i changed out both idle position sensor and idle air control motor sensor, problem fixed. been running and idling where its suppose to be over the last 4 days. i was a quick easy fix.
You're problem was that you needed to replace your clutch and or your slave cylinder. The flywheel was only partially grabbing making the RPM's rev higher. That exact same scenario that was happening in my Chevy S10.
My 99 SL2 automatic has done the same thing for almost 200,000 miles. I guess Ive just been used to it all this time. In fact, the performance hasnt degraded at all over the life of this car as far as I can tell. Its a great car that still begs to run flat-out (117mph) daily!
my 93 saturn wont start inles i use starting fluid and it only idels with my foot on the gas i changed the idle sensor and the idel position sensor still wont idle do you have an idea?
I have a high idle issue in my 01 Saturn sc1 manual if I sit itll go to around 1500 rpm and sometimes itll come down but other times it may even go to 1800 and itll stay there and it really takes a tole on my clutch because when I go to let it out the high idle will make my car lurch forward
I have the exact same car and bought an OBD2 that connects to bluetooth on my android as my check engine lite kept coming on. These things are amazing. I bought the BAFX 42t5 bluetooth and you can pretty much diagnose everything from there. I am using the Amazon 50 dollar tablet and download the Torque light app of the Amazon store and its free. I diagnosed a O2 sensor issue, sensor replaced problem solved. Total cost of diagnosis is 21.00 and it also monitors everything going on in your Saturn. The Torque light can be upgraded to Torque pro for 5 bucks and it does even more. Also will reset fault code, diagnose fault codes and you can monitor whatever dash configuration you choose to set up. It also is comparable with many free and paid apps but Torque light is free to check out basic issue and fault codes and pretty cool dashboards. Perfect for any car after 1996 with a port for the unit. Technology has arrived for you Android to actually use these built in ports. Plug it in connect to Bluetooth and go. Cool tool!!
I have tried all sensors I have found a EET SPOT BY 3 and 4 injectors is my rail or intake leaking can that cause both gauges to flux up and down you going to try to tell me an 02 sensor can cause all that does any one have a suggestion I am tired of looking at?
what temp sensor isent there 2 one by the fan another by the coolent. and was urs doing the same exact thing shown in the clip or slightly different cause mine was the same exact thing
i seriously having the same problems but mines an automatic it kept running at 3k rpms the whole way to work when in neutral but if i keep it in drive its like on cruise control no gas and i'm going 40mph but then again just like how its showing in your clip it goes away idk why you did a ton of stuff just wondering what you think did the trick. while trying to avoid spending a ton of cash on this. ever do the tps? some co workers and family think its that but its 40 bucks and if it won't work..
why is my 2000 saturn sl1cranks up easy on the first start than when it run for a 5mins it than dont wanna crank its getting spark, fuel pump pressure is 47,49psi.. but if I push the gas to the floor it would crank back up sometimes after spinning for a while
if you have a saturn Vue 2.2, sometimes the flex pipes, there are 2, deteriorate and the bits fall down into the pipe. then once you hit a bump the bits get sucked to the convertor causing the flow issue. pull the long pipe off, scrape the insides past the largest flex piece and dump out the particles. you will have to replace the 2 seals on the pipe.
I pretty much have the same car, doesn't work yet, (needs a tire and battery) but does anyone know why the "check engine light" keeps coming on, it bugs me and I'll soon take it to a mechanic for a test but damn lol :3
dave..obama wont take it any higher than it had been all thru 06 and 08. gas was 4.75 in my area for regular..dont even mention the northern or west states. I suppose, u do quite alot of panicky behavior since u predicted this a few months into his POTUS. GAS CYCLES High thru the ages. remember the 70's???
Idle air control valve- miy 2003 Saturn Ion stalling Soon as I put it in gear. Trying to find a video showing where it’s located and had a big place it so I can do it myself but no luck.
Did you ever solve the issue I want to keep my sc2 alive and it has the exact same thing where I've replaced the same parts but still I have this issue
I had the same problem on a 97 SC2 with the twin Overhead cam motor... I replaced the Idle air control valve and it is fixed! Runs ALOT better, smoother, etc...
1. Clean the throttle plate and intake manifold with Cleens u get it at ur GM dealer. 2. Get ur IAC, MAP and TPS checked make sure there in there operating ranges.
3. See if ur intake is cracked and listen for vacuum leaks.
You have 400k more miles in this car. Vacuum lines, TPS, IAC, EGR, Evap, plugs, fuel filter, oil relief for pistons, and clutch sleeve for manual trans. Amongst other stuff. I know this car very well.
The ECU is trying to rev match the next gear for you. I drove a Blazer once that did this, and my Cruze did too.
DUDE!!!! no way. i had the same problem with my '96 SC1. Heres what i did, i unplugged the throttle position sensor. the only thing with that is you got to keep your foot on the gas for a few seconds when ya start it. It was wasting so much gas that i couldnt take it. But its all good now man. The thing runs like a champ.
I went through lots of idle problems and fixes over the last 2 years on my 2001 SC2, including the EGR, IACV, TPS, ECTS, TB buildup... so I was very frustrated when last week I started having this exact idle problem.
Long story short I almost bought a 2nd IACV when I found this vid and zxcv43210727's reply. Disconnected the battery for 3 minutes and runs great now! Thanks! And thanks Dave for keeping the vid up for so long!
ps: The solution makes me think this might be a computer problem.
Good solution. lol. Just an fyi - I changed the thermostat yesterday because the car wasn't heating up - less than 1/4 - and the problem seems to be gone. I'll let you know if it stays gone. I can't see your temp gauge in the video, but it looks like you might have the same problem. Worth a try, and cheap.
Jus for reference, the line going to the coolant "expansion" tank is a coolant return line. Coolant runs through the intake manifold after the heater core and keeps the manifold/tb warm so it don't build up condensation inside and so it don't freeze over inside during colder temps season
I was a technician at Saturn the most common thing was the hose going to the pcv and using an aftermarket pcv the aftermarket pcv use the wrong spring. So many times a car came in for this problem after getting work done at a independent shop and it was just a crap aftermarket part. Another common thing was shops using an aftermarket fuel filter some years had the fuel pressure regulator in the filter and the aftermarket filters had too stiff of a spring in the regulator so it would have lower fuel pressure and get a lean code.
Gas problem maybe even a bent or kinked line
Ha ha ha! I am dealing with an idle problem as well. Thank for the vid. Mine works nicely & then every so often, idles weak & stalls (drops below 1000rpm). Too bad there isn't a screw-adjustment on the cable to raise the idle like normal cars & motorcycles.
I've had a 1993 Saturn sc2 for 10 years and its done the exact same thing for the whole time.I've put about 100000 miles on it. It seems to do it more when its cold out.When I hear your car running I could swear it was my car. exactly identical. All summer long it will be fine and on cooler nights it will start doing that. I just wanted to reply to say that it must be a common thing and dont seem to hurt anything, I still get 32 to 35 miles a gallon
the high rpm when you drive until you come to a stop might be the crank ventilation leaking into the valve train from the crank case. start the car with the pcv valve connected. take off the the oil cap and feel for ANY pressure at all coming out of the oil fill cap. if there is... then there is a more serious mechanical malfunction like, head gasket, valve guides or valve seals. my SC1 saturn had almost the same problem.
PCV Hose. Same problem with my 91 SL1. Start it, Parked idle is 2,000 RPM. After replacing, Parked Idle was at about 800 RPM.
If it's not your PCV, it's some sort of Vacuum leak, and you should do a smoke test.
you might have a bad intake manifold gasket or throtle body gasket because basically some where more air is leaking into the system
i would say that an Egr problem exsists with sticky carbonized pintle valves. val guides and seals are usually the culprit and help with the burning of the oil ergo Carbon. check the vent valve on your valve cover and boom. neet
Mine started doing this after I installed an upgrade ( air intake ram ) and filter. I positioned the electronic AIT sensor inside the ram as specified... no change!!
😩😩😩i got the same exact issue and replaced the same exact parts and is still giving me p0122. Tha pvc double hose is discontinued so I had to rig it 😫😫😫 I don’t really wanna mess with the manifold but im gonna have to
If the TPS % doesn't drop back to 0 (on analyzer), this will hold your idle high. Computer thinks that throttle is still open, and adjusts timing accordingly. I replaced my TPS after I couldn't get it to work right anymore, and now the idle drops back to 950-1000 every time I disengage the clutch.
On a side note, gas hit a peak of $4/gallon when Bush was president.
Most modern cars with manual transmissions will hold the idle a bit higher when coasting and shifting gears. My 99 SL2 holds it at about 1200 to 1500 when warm, and about 2000 when cold. Check your temperature gauge.
If it doesn't get past the 1/4 mark, then your thermostat is bad. Unfortunately Saturn made a thermostat with a rubber edge on the little door that opens and closes, and this goes bad, preventing the thermostat from closing fully. With this problem the engine won't reach operating temperature, which is about 1/16'' past the 1/4 temp mark. If the needle only gets to the 1/4 mark, your standing idle will be above 900, and coast will be at 2000. Standing idle should be 900 or 850.
Idle control valve
Could be a speed sensor issue since it only happens when his
Car is moving. He didnt say if he ran the codes on his ECU.
Yo man i changed the EGR AND pcv the problem is the TPS its about 33 at autozone
BTW only us true saturn lovers know rich pinn..look him up....my saturn is an sc297 no flip up headlights with about 10k of mods saturns are the american answer to honda and saturn owners are why keep buying saturns they rock!!!
It Is The EGR valve. I know you said you replaced it. Cleaning it doesn't cut it. And you got to get a good one too. $124 for AcDelco. Small price to pay to get another 140,000. I tryed cleaning mine too, sometimes it seem to help. But when I finally replaced it with a NEW egr valve, this problem went away and hasn't been back going on 5 years now.
I have saturn 2002 sc2 automatic transmission.. I sense some similarity that the computer is trying to keep it running with automatic. So I think the computer algorithm that keeps the engine running might be based on automatic transmission and it might be trying just to keep engine running at least with a 2000rpm ignoring the fact that you are pressing the clutch as if it is still on transmission. So the algorithm might not have a function that says when the clutch is activated, go to idle at 1000rpm instead of 2000.
Posted to soon,you already changer coolant temp sensor. Thats what fixed that prob on my SL
I had the same problem I replaced the TPS (throttle position sensor)
Fixed it
EGR valve cleaning or a new engine coolant temp sensor maybe. After that pull the PCM-B fuse out for 30 seconds or so, or disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for 30 seconds. Might also check for a leak around the intake manifold by spraying around the manifold with some carb cleaner while at idle.
95 Saturn sw1, I had the same exact problem, except my would stall one in a while, and my RPMs would go from 1200 or so and just randomly drop to 300, then go back up. I changed the Throttle positioning sensor, no luck. I completely cleaned out to throttle body, no luck. PVC valve, no luck. my spark plugs were completely burned out though, we ended up changing them and it ran like shit, like one of the spark plugs wasn't going. I unplugged the ETCS connector and started it up, BAM fixed!
It seems that your tps is going or is sticking. I had the same issue about a year ago. Changed it and cleaned where it seats in the throttle. And pluged it back in. Also you might want to see if there is a vacume leak @ the intake to throtle body after...
My car is having the same issue as his and smooths out when the engines warm but I've replaced the TPS about 4,000 miles ago
I had a similar problem with my 98 SL1. At one point, the idle wouldn't go under 2000 RPM even when it was out of gear and stopped. I finally turned it off and re-started and it was fine after that. It's done this twice.
If your temperature gage does not rise its the problem
Its not the coolant temp making the difference. Its the exhust temp heating up the EGR valve, allowing the worn out EGR valve to function semi properly. This problem is from a week, worn out, sticking EGR valve. And cleaning it won't fix it. Just replace it with a NEW one, and it will feel like you have a new car again.
Am having same issue with 1998 Saturn SL2, I am going to pull the throttle body and clean it, then look at the sensors, EGR valve and not sure where to go from there....hope its one of them:)
Did you ever fix this problem? I'm having the same issue.
1999-2002 S series - Poor ground connection on the small braided ground wire from the ECM to the left strut tower. Solution: Take the ECM mounting bolt that connects the wire out and sand all surfaces and reconnect the braided wire. If that doesn't work try changing throttle position sensor.
EGR valve cleaning or a new engine coolant temp sensor maybe. After that pull the PCM-B fuse out for 30 seconds or so, or disconnect the negative terminal from the battery for 30 seconds.
all i did to my car was change the temp sensor and everything went back to normal
My 1997 SC2 is currently doing the same thing. I have to stab the throttle (like disengaging the old electric choke carburetors) to bring the idle back to normal when I coast it with the clutch pedal in or with the car in neutral at a stoplight.
Any check engine lights? Does it get up to temp properly? Could be a tps or IAC problem. Throttle plate also can get dirty on back and stick. If you know someone with a Good scantool have them look at the live data while driving it. But I'm gonna say your problem probably lies in the throttle body
@@swagginmcjaggin1078 Update: I went all out. I removed the throttle body and then removed the TPS and the IAC from it and cleaned the throttle body front and back with both Simple Green and brake cleaner. Installed a new TPS, a new IAC, a new MAP sensor and reinstalled the throttle body with a new gasket. Turned the car on and it ran like crap! Drove it about 100 miles and everything synchronized with the PCM and now it runs PERFECT!!
to the video maker, most likely your MAP sensor that is under the throttle body. the MAP sensor should read 14.5 psi if working normally. hook it up to a computer or have someone do it and see what the reading is. 99.9% sure its ur MAP sensor.
The MAP is on the opposite end of the manifold from the throttle body. The vacuum line he is wondering about at the end of the video is for the EVAP.
Check ur PVC valve for leeks mine did that and there was a crack leaking air in the hose.
This is my daughters acct....my car is doing the same thing 2002 sl 2 Im being told by the shop to trade the car in because they tested it and said the transmission is slipping...Im not trading it because like you, I love my saturn...so I am going to get a new transmission as soon as this one goes...your symptoms will get worse over the next year...just have a plan
Did you unhook the battery to reset the computer.
There is also a evaporative charcoal canister solenoid in the large vacuum line from the canister to the throttle body.
It regulates the pressure in the fuel tank.
Too much pressure, air/fuel mixture rich.
Too much vacuum in the tank, air/fuel mixture lean.
This inexpensive part can cause all kinds of different false symptoms and trip false codes until it goes totally bad.
Ever get this figured out? I have the same problem with a 2002 automatic. It is a slight nuisance but even worse when you're breaking and downshifting causes it to idle 3K and the next thing you know your ABS is firing off. Ugh..no leaks for me, I think I'm going to try the idle air
I’m having this same problem did you ever figure it out?
Drive it til it blows
I have change the throttle position sensor I have clean out the throttle and I have changed the engine coolant temperature sensor am still having the same problems the only other thing I can think of is the sensor right next to the air Intake But I cannot find this part any help would be greatly appreciated
What's up man, you seem to be the victim of the saturn idle. The most annoying thing~! Mine is doing something similar but not quite. Anyways I think your problem is eazier to handle. I believe its your idle control air valve that is attatched to your throttle body. It's like 40 bucks at a local shop and you can change it yourself. It didnt work for me but like I said I have a different problem. Let me know if you need more direction, I'll help if I can.
I'm glad my saturn is perfect lol ...
I have the exact same problem on a 2000 SL sohc, manual trans. I have replaced everything you have replaced with no luck. I have the ELM computer link and there are no codes. Please let me know if you ever find the problem. I will do the same.
check your fuel pump, or fuel filter.
It's the egr valve sensor, I'm 100% sure.
Had same problem! its the Coolant temperature sensor it controls that, put a new one in fixxed everything.
that is bullshit replaced 3 took each one back start firuren something eile ive owned appx, 30
dirty throttle body. it might be sticking open. either that or a iac valve
could be a throttle positioning sensor
Sounds like you could use a new idol sensor located on your throttle body.
great i got my saturn 1996 sl2 runs better and no car payments thank you
did you change the throttle position sensor? clean the egr valve also , as the egr will make your engine run bad.
check the idle air control maybe?
Clean the IAC on the throttle body and the throttle body itsself
i'm thinking it might be the coolant sensor and my car is only doing this when it gets about 30 to 40 degrees
I have a 2002 sc2 and mine does the same thing, my cars automatic and when I turn it on and let it sit for a while at 950 rpm than shoot up to 2500 and stay there and if I put it in drive during this my car reaches 20 mph without me touching anything
had same problem it's the egr valve
Robert Hysell same I changed the egr valve sensor and fixed it
i have the same idle problem with my 2001 saturn sc2, it'll idle high somtimes, it'll fluctuate in idling, so what im going to is removed throttle body, and change out both idle position sensor and idle air control motor sensor, both sensors are right next to eachother on throttle body. also clean throttle body.
Purple Spyder it's the egr valve sensor. 100% sure.
i changed out both idle position sensor and idle air control motor sensor, problem fixed. been running and idling where its suppose to be over the last 4 days. i was a quick easy fix.
You're problem was that you needed to replace your clutch and or your slave cylinder. The flywheel was only partially grabbing making the RPM's rev higher. That exact same scenario that was happening in my Chevy S10.
My 99 SL2 automatic has done the same thing for almost 200,000 miles. I guess Ive just been used to it all this time. In fact, the performance hasnt degraded at all over the life of this car as far as I can tell. Its a great car that still begs to run flat-out (117mph) daily!
Dude it's your O2 sensor replaced it simple to fix
my 93 saturn wont start inles i use starting fluid and it only idels with my foot on the gas i changed the idle sensor and the idel position sensor still wont idle do you have an idea?
I am planning to buy saturn car model 1992, and i just want to know the major problem of this
Hey I had the same problem it was the heater core and thermostat problem
i put fishing weights on the revcounter arm it fixed mine ok!.
I have a high idle issue in my 01 Saturn sc1 manual if I sit itll go to around 1500 rpm and sometimes itll come down but other times it may even go to 1800 and itll stay there and it really takes a tole on my clutch because when I go to let it out the high idle will make my car lurch forward
mine does this too.
I have the exact same car and bought an OBD2 that connects to bluetooth on my android as my check engine lite kept coming on. These things are amazing. I bought the BAFX 42t5 bluetooth and you can pretty much diagnose everything from there. I am using the Amazon 50 dollar tablet and download the Torque light app of the Amazon store and its free. I diagnosed a O2 sensor issue, sensor replaced problem solved. Total cost of diagnosis is 21.00 and it also monitors everything going on in your Saturn. The Torque light can be upgraded to Torque pro for 5 bucks and it does even more. Also will reset fault code, diagnose fault codes and you can monitor whatever dash configuration you choose to set up. It also is comparable with many free and paid apps but Torque light is free to check out basic issue and fault codes and pretty cool dashboards. Perfect for any car after 1996 with a port for the unit. Technology has arrived for you Android to actually use these built in ports. Plug it in connect to Bluetooth and go. Cool tool!!
Try fuses or sensors it doesnt seem like a big problem
I had a 2002 and I had that stupid problem too.
I have a 2007 ion and most saturns go up to 2000 when you start them. thats nothing new.
throttle positioning sensor
my temp gauge and rpm keep fluxating I replaced it all now what???
I have tried all sensors I have found a EET SPOT BY 3 and 4 injectors is my rail or intake leaking can that cause both gauges to flux up and down you going to try to tell me an 02 sensor can cause all that does any one have a suggestion I am tired of looking at?
Can a bad egr valve cause rough idles? And cause lights to flicker upon acceleration and deceleration? :)
your intake gasket needs replaced
Dude...Dave you the man...THE MAN!! you fixed mine tytytytyty your nickname is rich pinn jr hahah
what temp sensor isent there 2 one by the fan another by the coolent. and was urs doing the same exact thing shown in the clip or slightly different cause mine was the same exact thing
Johnm my wifes is doing the same thing when it's cold outside.
Did your issue ever return? or did the reset of the computer do the trick still. Thanks
i seriously having the same problems but mines an automatic it kept running at 3k rpms the whole way to work when in neutral but if i keep it in drive its like on cruise control no gas and i'm going 40mph but then again just like how its showing in your clip it goes away idk why you did a ton of stuff just wondering what you think did the trick. while trying to avoid spending a ton of cash on this. ever do the tps? some co workers and family think its that but its 40 bucks and if it won't work..
why is my 2000 saturn sl1cranks up easy on the first start than when it run for a 5mins it than dont wanna crank its getting spark, fuel pump pressure is 47,49psi.. but if I push the gas to the floor it would crank back up sometimes after spinning for a while
+aaron hearn Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. Common issue.
aaron hearn it's the egr valve sensor. 100% sure!
Ok im gonna try that. Thank you both
what is the trouble code
People relax! He may no longer be driving this car. After all, this video almost 10 years old lol
Mine won't go above 50 mph I think it's the cad converter any ideas let me know when I go to gun it it about dies
if you have a saturn Vue 2.2, sometimes the flex pipes, there are 2, deteriorate and the bits fall down into the pipe. then once you hit a bump the bits get sucked to the convertor causing the flow issue. pull the long pipe off, scrape the insides past the largest flex piece and dump out the particles. you will have to replace the 2 seals on the pipe.
I pretty much have the same car, doesn't work yet, (needs a tire and battery) but does anyone know why the "check engine light" keeps coming on, it bugs me and I'll soon take it to a mechanic for a test but damn lol :3
Throttle body switch
@daveshvideo after you disconnected the battery it worked fine???
He forgot 3
dave..obama wont take it any higher than it had been all thru 06 and 08. gas was 4.75 in my area for regular..dont even mention the northern or west states. I suppose, u do quite alot of panicky behavior since u predicted this a few months into his POTUS. GAS CYCLES High thru the ages. remember the 70's???
its actually commin
I'm pretty sure that all saturn's do this until the coolant is at a certain temperature. Does it do this when the car is warmed up?
cold and hot
SATURN SL1 bad plastic cars
Its the idler air control vavle
Idle air control valve- miy 2003 Saturn Ion stalling Soon as I put it in gear. Trying to find a video showing where it’s located and had a big place it so I can do it myself but no luck.
Did you ever solve the issue I want to keep my sc2 alive and it has the exact same thing where I've replaced the same parts but still I have this issue