Mind you I am not losing any oil either I've seen this happen a couple of times and I am almost certain it is a ringland issue as it is very common for these cars to have those issues
I hate to doubt Alex, he's right way more than wrong. But I've seen that before as well as a long time former Ford tech, but it wasn't on a coyote, so my thoughts may be invalid. If possible, pull the valve cover and run the engine and see if smoke is coming through a valve seal. I saw it one a boosted new edge cobra. But given the common issues with these cars, ring lands are more likely, but not 100%.
Holy S#$% bro my gen 3 2018 with Whipple did the same exact thing! My cylinder number 7 was down over 100psi and now I have to replace the short block! Good luck bro.
Also Alex, before going through the trouble of swapping long blocks, rent/buy a cylinder leakage tester to help further pinpoint where your compression loss is on #7 cylinder. It’s possible that a valve seat/spring issue may be the problem instead of a ring issue.
@@YDBT4LIFE not saying it isn’t an issue with the piston rings, once again just passing along some info if you wanted to further diagnose your loss of compression before you just threw a short or long block at it. You do you old pal.
@@travisc.3881 it's not a valve I guarantee it I'm almost so sure of it that I'm willing to bet a short block on it LOL I'll replace the short block and show everyone that the issue is a ringland because I've seen it happen too many times a random number seven cyl valve issue literally never happens on coyotes
@@YDBT4LIFE I’d say you are spot on with your diagnosis of a piston ring issue considering the compression test numbers and it did seem to have a good bit of blow by coming out of the PCV on Bank 2.
Damn hate to see that. I enjoy learning about these motors. Is it common for rings to go bad? I just put a GEN3R in mine not long ago with a Gen 2 block. Want to do all I can to keep it healthy.
That happened to me thanks to calis gas 91 and lund tune and lots of octane booster. #7 cylinder had a cracked ring. Same issues probably with yours. RPG for the win. Still stuck with lund tho ❤️
Keep in mind a majority of that vapor at idle can be that the PCV valve isn’t functioning correctly at all. I would remove the catch can and check for vapor again at idle.
A little trick we started doing to avoid the crank time exceded is use a relay tester and use that on the starter relay. Then ya can cruise threw it like any other engine, and not have to wait like 10 minutes everytime ya get locked out.
During the summer in GA I run enough Boostane to achieve 96 octane just for added safety. Car has a 93 tune and a GEN2R with a 85MM pulley. I used octanium before and it didn’t take long at all for my plugs to look like yours. With Boostane the orange affect for me has been much much less.
You are probably right about it being a ringland. But it still could be a lifter/lash adjuster, damaged spring, cylinder damage. It’s time for a leak down test.
lol I think the schrader valve was missing on the first compression tester. Not that it matters because you found the low cyl, but even the good cylinders seem a bit low. I consistently get between 250-290psi on gen 3 coyotes from doing so many oil consumption diags. That 12:1 compression should almost hit the top of that gauge.
i'd pull the shortblock down order some .010" over 2618 CP Carillo 10 to 1 compression pistons with tool steel pins & napier piston rings, torque plate hone the block, deck it with a BHJ decking fixture and rebalance the rotating assembly and maybe some custom camshafts from Comp cams with a later intake closing and stuff it right back in there. A little less on the static compression won't hurt it and probably help it down in Florida with the bad gas. If it's soggy just change the pulley on the Vortech and let it eat that's amazing that the little motor is doing as good as it is especially because I know you've put it threw hell and back.
Man that's why I don't use that booster anymore junk.. love the GT500 wheels, you could maybe do a piston and rod swap. Best way to check the compression test doesn't lie!!! LFTW
If you live in an area with poor quality fuel it's tough. E85 isn't everywhere not even close. MMT beats a blown motor but the orange is how you pay for it. I wonder how a quality cleaner like redline would impact those deposits if used occasionally.
Alex by the way if you hold the gas pedal all the way down as the car cranks, it’ll enter flood mode and turn injectors off so you don’t have to unplug injectors. Saves me some time every time I do a compression check.
Octane booster makes the plugs and everything downstream look like hell but I have not seen any performance penalty, but I run a pretty conservative setup. Definitely not a better solution than higher octane fuel and a Fore setup, but don’t fear the orange too much.
As others have stated might wanta do a leak down test before pulling that motor or at least a bore scope to pinpoint the damage. Great content tho Alex!
Hopefully you can help me out with my issue I’m getting a lot of smoke coming out the exhaust and cold start but once I start driving it goes away , I did compression test and I was getting 200-210 nothing lower than that
Doesn't the PCV system put oil vapor into the air/fuel mix and lower octane level as well? More blow by=lower octane so it just gets worse and worse. I got a vented catch can to avoid this but maybe I am off in left field here.
@@horsepoweraddiction808 The intake ports are capped. There is no sucking oil vapor into your intake. A non vented one gets some oil out of the air but not even close to all of it.
@@horsepoweraddiction808 Yeah. All that smoke that was coming out the cam cover is being mixed with fuel/air mix unless you vent it. It can even put raw oil into the mix. www.uprproducts.com/11-14-mustang-gt-breather-tank-system-plug-n-play/
If I’m a broke boy and kinda know what I’m doing could I take the engine apart and send the block in and the cylinders and they replace the rings and clean up the block for her to be back to new?
I wonder if u got a bad valve or a crack around the valve. Are those heads known for cracks or valve issues? I'd think if it was a ring or piston, you'd see the oil on plug from blowby
Alex what do you think about the Snow Performance meth kit i heard it brings pump gas oct to race gas levels is that true and its usually used for boosted applications
that low on compression didn't cause a misfire/trouble code? Seems by the comments hurt coyotes from boost is pretty common. I've always thought this motor was to high compression for the amount of boost people run through them, but wtf do i know.
@@YDBT4LIFE Incorrect on what, that high compression and boost is a bad combination. If i'm incorrect then why even make pistons for lower compression builds, meh! blocking your channel.
Lol the ole magnet never fails. Hate to see your motor is hurt. Will you be pulling apart the stock motor to inspect damage? Or just sell it? Maybe just a quick scope check?
@@YDBT4LIFE you could make some money on your hurt motor. If the damage is not too bad, you could fix it and sell it. Might as well make some money off of it.
I have a 2011 Mustang lund tuned, when I get on it it blows black smoke but when I come to a stop it's blue smoke blowing by me any suggestions no revisions on the tune.. I have a feeling it's running a little rich also exhaust tips are black..
I knew the blue smoke was burning oil the car has 130,000 miles on it but It doesn't do it at idle only seems to blow blue smoke when I'm coming to a stop sign or red light after getting on it.. wasn't sure about the black smoke figured it was running rich just changed the plugs I put in 6510s
@@YDBT4LIFE lol exactly what I’ve been doing I’ve done compression test on my bmw no problem. I’ve tired m14 and m16 and m18. Doesn’t matter a how to channel would be more knowledge for someone who needs help. No need to get butt hurt over a comment. Lol
@@1morebmw197 no. Just another whiner on UA-cam. I am petty and reply to all whiny UA-cam comments wanting specific details available to anyone that does a little research.
Alex, Ford tech here, just for future reference you can push the accelerator pedal to the floor with the key on, and the PCM will go into Clear Flood mode, meaning it will not pulse the injectors. And then you can turn the engine over without it starting/spraying fuel for a compression test.
I find disconnecting injectors much easier. I have to handle a camera. Talk...hit button to start car...narrate.... zoom in... Disconnect injectors...done
@@YDBT4LIFE no worries, no offense taken at all. I get it, it’s a one man show and you only got two hands. Whatever works easiest for ya. Hopefully you get your white car taken care of. Good videos 👍
That would just be less timing in the tune and not necessarily I had the same thing happened to my car and I had the timing pretty low since it was a daily driver.
@@richie2dicks468 I'm running a pulley and tune, on a 2010 GT500 if that changes anything. My opinion is it's a safer margin to run the 91 tune on 93 octane but I'm looking for the correct answer versus my opinion.
@@Twobarpsi if it’s no shit then why do you have to hear it from him if you just answered your own question? You’re the guy in the tuning que he talks about when he wants to beat his head against the wall.
No.7 is the culprit.. test was simple without any complications.. superb Alex👌🏻💥.. that boostane makes the plugs groos..
No oil on plugs that far down on compression means valve issue, I found broken spring in my head when I rebuilt the motor, pull head covers
Did it puff smoke from crankcase? Lol
Yep bad valve seal as well! Lol
@@martin5.036 nope that will burn oil in the exhaust not puff out of the crankcase
Mind you I am not losing any oil either I've seen this happen a couple of times and I am almost certain it is a ringland issue as it is very common for these cars to have those issues
I hate to doubt Alex, he's right way more than wrong. But I've seen that before as well as a long time former Ford tech, but it wasn't on a coyote, so my thoughts may be invalid. If possible, pull the valve cover and run the engine and see if smoke is coming through a valve seal. I saw it one a boosted new edge cobra. But given the common issues with these cars, ring lands are more likely, but not 100%.
Holy S#$% bro my gen 3 2018 with Whipple did the same exact thing! My cylinder number 7 was down over 100psi and now I have to replace the short block! Good luck bro.
Great informative video, simple and easy procedure, nice trouble shooting.
That octane booster really does a number on the plugs! Good to know if someone wants to run that stuff.
Guess I'll be changing out my plugs more often, til i get that return style
@@Joebauers2505 or just turn the car down till you get your fuel system
@@Jb-mp1in I could but I'm not really pushing it, only running 10-10.5 psi on 93 using boostane as an additive
It fucks with the O2’s as well
@@Joebauers2505 not worth it just run 8psi and be content
Also Alex, before going through the trouble of swapping long blocks, rent/buy a cylinder leakage tester to help further pinpoint where your compression loss is on #7 cylinder. It’s possible that a valve seat/spring issue may be the problem instead of a ring issue.
It's puffing smoke from crankcase....tell me how that is valve related.
@@YDBT4LIFE not saying it isn’t an issue with the piston rings, once again just passing along some info if you wanted to further diagnose your loss of compression before you just threw a short or long block at it. You do you old pal.
@@travisc.3881 it's not a valve I guarantee it I'm almost so sure of it that I'm willing to bet a short block on it LOL I'll replace the short block and show everyone that the issue is a ringland because I've seen it happen too many times a random number seven cyl valve issue literally never happens on coyotes
@@YDBT4LIFE I’d say you are spot on with your diagnosis of a piston ring issue considering the compression test numbers and it did seem to have a good bit of blow by coming out of the PCV on Bank 2.
I had a dropped sleeve. Smoked like fine cigar.
You might consider adding a tiny bit more piston ring gap for the new engine.
@alex FYI the way your plugs looks is the same way my valves looked when I pulled the engine out from using the Maditive octane booster.
It's official you are a real youtuber you blew up a engine lmao
#wherearemylikes.......
Hahahahaha
Fucking it's just a six having a heart attack thinking Alex just stole his game
Damn hate to see that. I enjoy learning about these motors. Is it common for rings to go bad? I just put a GEN3R in mine not long ago with a Gen 2 block. Want to do all I can to keep it healthy.
Wow that additive just kills spark plugs. Hopefully you can get it fixed soon!
That happened to me thanks to calis gas 91 and lund tune and lots of octane booster. #7 cylinder had a cracked ring. Same issues probably with yours. RPG for the win. Still stuck with lund tho ❤️
Keep in mind a majority of that vapor at idle can be that the PCV valve isn’t functioning correctly at all. I would remove the catch can and check for vapor again at idle.
A little trick we started doing to avoid the crank time exceded is use a relay tester and use that on the starter relay. Then ya can cruise threw it like any other engine, and not have to wait like 10 minutes everytime ya get locked out.
Compression checks don't work for broken ringlands. What you check for is oil on the threads of the plug.
octanium has a leaded and unleaded version. Wonder if the unleaded makes a difference on the plugs
Install The Aluminator engine , it built for boost.
Before I can afford a fuel system I'm only going to run 8 psi. This video just reinforced what I want to do.
During the summer in GA I run enough Boostane to achieve 96 octane just for added safety. Car has a 93 tune and a GEN2R with a 85MM pulley.
I used octanium before and it didn’t take long at all for my plugs to look like yours.
With Boostane the orange affect for me has been much much less.
If you hold the gas pedal to the floor it and crank, it puts the car into "clear flood mode" which automatically cuts fuel and spark.
Its crazy how many ppl dont know this 😁
@@cooterbaby3360 I really don't think it's common knowledge. I'm just trying to help out Mr. Alex or anyone else who reads this.
so, i dont need to disconnect any fuse or fuel lines?
You are probably right about it being a ringland. But it still could be a lifter/lash adjuster, damaged spring, cylinder damage. It’s time for a leak down test.
Good video. You definitely called that one.
Good video. Good information.
lol I think the schrader valve was missing on the first compression tester. Not that it matters because you found the low cyl, but even the good cylinders seem a bit low. I consistently get between 250-290psi on gen 3 coyotes from doing so many oil consumption diags. That 12:1 compression should almost hit the top of that gauge.
That depends upon your altitude and if the test is done correctly
Great video.
Thanks brother!
Great video Alex! Sorry bout your motor, I bought a complete long block for my 2018 was 4200 with my buddy’s discount
I have both, a long block and a shortblock. might just get a brand new shortblock from ford through pbh
Why are cylinder 5 & 8 problem cylinders on coyotes
"Engine bay is filthy, I don't care". My ninja.
Usually oil fouled plugs are white, unless it's real bad and then you just see wet oil
The stock ring gap on these cars is insanely tight
i'd pull the shortblock down order some .010" over 2618 CP Carillo 10 to 1 compression pistons with tool steel pins & napier piston rings, torque plate hone the block, deck it with a BHJ decking fixture and rebalance the rotating assembly and maybe some custom camshafts from Comp cams with a later intake closing and stuff it right back in there. A little less on the static compression won't hurt it and probably help it down in Florida with the bad gas. If it's soggy just change the pulley on the Vortech and let it eat that's amazing that the little motor is doing as good as it is especially because I know you've put it threw hell and back.
I won't ever lower compression on a coyote. Makes 0 sense.
Man that's why I don't use that booster anymore junk.. love the GT500 wheels, you could maybe do a piston and rod swap. Best way to check the compression test doesn't lie!!! LFTW
Im changing my plugs tomorrow
If you live in an area with poor quality fuel it's tough. E85 isn't everywhere not even close. MMT beats a blown motor but the orange is how you pay for it. I wonder how a quality cleaner like redline would impact those deposits if used occasionally.
Alex by the way if you hold the gas pedal all the way down as the car cranks, it’ll enter flood mode and turn injectors off so you don’t have to unplug injectors. Saves me some time every time I do a compression check.
Better to disconnect injectors
Nice video, Alex.
Last time i had that color on all the plugs it was exhaust valve. For the longest i thought it was manganese in the gas.
It's not a valve. Exain the smoke If it's a valve
Octane booster makes the plugs and everything downstream look like hell but I have not seen any performance penalty, but I run a pretty conservative setup. Definitely not a better solution than higher octane fuel and a Fore setup, but don’t fear the orange too much.
You should check the intercooler if it's full of oil I had a customer that blew ringlands and his intercooler has atleast 1 qt of oil in it
Ring lands gone and the cyl walls are toast. Time to sleeve it.
As others have stated might wanta do a leak down test before pulling that motor or at least a bore scope to pinpoint the damage. Great content tho Alex!
Borescope won't show a ring land issue
@@YDBT4LIFE true but could show if there’s any cyl wall damage.
Looks like your first compression gauge was missing the Schrader valve. But I'm sure you are aware of that. More for anyone else who looks.
Great video!!
Hopefully you can help me out with my issue I’m getting a lot of smoke coming out the exhaust and cold start but once I start driving it goes away , I did compression test and I was getting 200-210 nothing lower than that
Plugs always turn orange on the octane booster.
Doesn't the PCV system put oil vapor into the air/fuel mix and lower octane level as well? More blow by=lower octane so it just gets worse and worse. I got a vented catch can to avoid this but maybe I am off in left field here.
Why are you using a vented catch can rather than non vented?
@@horsepoweraddiction808 The intake ports are capped. There is no sucking oil vapor into your intake. A non vented one gets some oil out of the air but not even close to all of it.
@@SHOOTSHOW00 ok so it’s just a vent to atmosphere setup correct?
@@horsepoweraddiction808 Yeah. All that smoke that was coming out the cam cover is being mixed with fuel/air mix unless you vent it. It can even put raw oil into the mix.
www.uprproducts.com/11-14-mustang-gt-breather-tank-system-plug-n-play/
@@SHOOTSHOW00 do you smell the pcv in your car when you are driving?
If I’m a broke boy and kinda know what I’m doing could I take the engine apart and send the block in and the cylinders and they replace the rings and clean up the block for her to be back to new?
Can't you just replace the ringlands? Why does the whole shortblock have to be replaced?
Why didn’t you continue with a wet test? That would have told you where the failure is
I wonder if u got a bad valve or a crack around the valve. Are those heads known for cracks or valve issues? I'd think if it was a ring or piston, you'd see the oil on plug from blowby
Is that a factory wire magnet? You know your shit rocks when you have tools like that.
Alex what do you think about the Snow Performance meth kit i heard it brings pump gas oct to race gas levels is that true and its usually used for boosted applications
It worked for me for 2years no problems
that low on compression didn't cause a misfire/trouble code? Seems by the comments hurt coyotes from boost is pretty common. I've always thought this motor was to high compression for the amount of boost people run through them, but wtf do i know.
Nope. You are incorrect.
A ring land issue was common on Early Gen 3
Gen 1 and gen 2 are fine. Generally
@@YDBT4LIFE Incorrect on what, that high compression and boost is a bad combination. If i'm incorrect then why even make pistons for lower compression builds, meh! blocking your channel.
@@mooosestang bye. Lmao.
Silly or dumb question: could it be a blob Head gasket?
Blown..
Hoping somebody could shed some light on the subject what does it mean if you have oil on your spark plugs
Would like to know as well
Where's Christian..
Lol the ole magnet never fails. Hate to see your motor is hurt. Will you be pulling apart the stock motor to inspect damage? Or just sell it? Maybe just a quick scope check?
I'd pull it and show the damage.
@@YDBT4LIFE you could make some money on your hurt motor.
If the damage is not too bad, you could fix it and sell it.
Might as well make some money off of it.
What is the quickest way to disable the di for compression testing?
Killing fuel pump or matting the throttle during test
My other favorote tech👌🏼 good onya 😂
Need one of those car port canopies over your dyno. Looks uncomfortable as fuh with the sun baking your dome the whole video
What happened to PBH looks closed down?
I have a 2011 Mustang lund tuned, when I get on it it blows black smoke but when I come to a stop it's blue smoke blowing by me any suggestions no revisions on the tune.. I have a feeling it's running a little rich also exhaust tips are black..
Black smoke is unburnt fuel, blue smoke is oil burning…
I knew the blue smoke was burning oil the car has 130,000 miles on it but It doesn't do it at idle only seems to blow blue smoke when I'm coming to a stop sign or red light after getting on it.. wasn't sure about the black smoke figured it was running rich just changed the plugs I put in 6510s
It be nice to know tools and compression size is needed. No one in these videos says 🤦🏽♂️
This is not a how to channel. Learn. Like we all did. By doing.
@@YDBT4LIFE lol exactly what I’ve been doing I’ve done compression test on my bmw no problem. I’ve tired m14 and m16 and m18. Doesn’t matter a how to channel would be more knowledge for someone who needs help. No need to get butt hurt over a comment. Lol
@@1morebmw197 says the guy butthurt that no one tells him exactly what size is used on a coyote
@@YDBT4LIFE not butt hurt just simple stating something. That obviously you took offense too.
@@1morebmw197 no. Just another whiner on UA-cam. I am petty and reply to all whiny UA-cam comments wanting specific details available to anyone that does a little research.
What the fuck did they report the video again 👀👀👀 I was watching earlier at work and now it’s gone again 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
Alex, Ford tech here, just for future reference you can push the accelerator pedal to the floor with the key on, and the PCM will go into Clear Flood mode, meaning it will not pulse the injectors. And then you can turn the engine over without it starting/spraying fuel for a compression test.
I was thinking the same
I find disconnecting injectors much easier. I have to handle a camera. Talk...hit button to start car...narrate.... zoom in...
Disconnect injectors...done
@@YDBT4LIFE fair enough just trying to be helpful. You pass along a lot of info, just thought I’d do the same.
@@travisc.3881 I really do appreciate it I hope I'm not coming across as if I don't appreciate it I'm just giving you my thought process LOL
@@YDBT4LIFE no worries, no offense taken at all. I get it, it’s a one man show and you only got two hands. Whatever works easiest for ya. Hopefully you get your white car taken care of. Good videos 👍
Dude even 1 can of boostane will do that. I’ve put a total of 2 cans in my car between 3 sets of plugs and they immediately get orange
I'm convinced my cats got clogged from too much octane booster. Vp purple label actually says it's not safe for cats.
Are NGK 6510’s stock heat range on the Gen 3?
No
Aluminator?
Would you be willing to run engine restore to see if it works
That is not for damaged engines
That sucks.
Also, just to create an extra safety margin can you run a 91 tune and use 93 octane?
That would just be less timing in the tune and not necessarily I had the same thing happened to my car and I had the timing pretty low since it was a daily driver.
@@richie2dicks468 I'm running a pulley and tune, on a 2010 GT500 if that changes anything. My opinion is it's a safer margin to run the 91 tune on 93 octane but I'm looking for the correct answer versus my opinion.
@@Twobarpsi the only difference between a “91” tune and a “93” tune is the timing. Less octane less timing. It’s not complicated.
@@richie2dicks468 yeah no shit Sherlock...less timing = less chance of detonation, want to hear it from Alex if it's safer.
@@Twobarpsi if it’s no shit then why do you have to hear it from him if you just answered your own question? You’re the guy in the tuning que he talks about when he wants to beat his head against the wall.
Alex, number 7 is fine. Just get a high torque starter! LoL
Wrong. Starter need a dedicated E85 tune
Octane booster
Some people swear by it...the plugs say a different story. lol
How much power is it making @ 11psi?
700 or so. There's a video on it
Alejandro Flores I’m sure I’ve seen it just couldn’t remember
Thong Song
Wanna do a compression test on my shit but I don’t wanna know if it’s good or not 😂.
@@snowman2834 😂😂😂
When you say over 10psi on pump gas, does that include the gen 2 coyote as well even though it has lower compression?
Gen 2s seem to be more tolerant.
I'd blame your tuner. 🙄
bUt aLeX yOu cAnT fIx tHe cOmPrEsSioN wItH A tOoN!?
Carbon build up in a ring land mabey.
Different power adders you say…Gear driven Vortech!
What’s a gear driven vortech. You talking about a v7 jtb?
@@pierbicchi7328 it’s directly mounted to the crank and not driven by the belt. I think only certain head units are compatible.
Lol we don’t give a shit about seeing it first makes no difference we are just donating to the cause. Sure u know that
That thong tha tha tha thong 😂
Just wot the throttle when cranking it cuts fuel....💁♂️
Godzilla swap it😂
Too much timing --cracked ring land
LS swap 😜😜