Best comment on here. I like and appreciate them all. I have a 67 riviera. It has 20" wheels and badass tires. Engine is bored cammed and I got headers on it. Its a fkn beast but I still appreciate others cars the way they want them. I like a donk. I like a slammed car, lifted whatever. I can appreciate others ideas and visions, but I build my cars the way I want them. You don't have to see something the way you would do it to still appreciate it.
I thought I was going to like, nope. By this persons logic, if your car isn't an autocross donk. You have built your car wrong. Here's the best piece of car builder advice. Get it running, drive it a year, decide if you wanna keep or sell, make a list of improvements after said year, tackle list one at a time from least to most important. Drive your car! Don't leave it in pieces.
Man, that hit close to home....I have a car that has been sitting for 18 months or longer. it blew a freeze out plug and the hot start issues I was having with it, among a few other minor things, has just sucked the fun out of it. It is such a simple fix to get it running again....great advice. Thanks for the motivation. I have a few days off, I may just fire the old girl up before the weekend.
These are mistakes people make when building a car if you're restoring or have a restored/still stock car you aren't building a car your fixing it to factory standard's
@@bremCZ wish you told me that's all I thought it took to build a car before I'd never went got an ls motor put all new internals in it twin turboed it and stuffed it in my gbody if you'd told me before all I thought it took to build a car was new wheels you should have told me this year's ago you know how many 351 blocks I went through in my foxbody when I was a teenager entire time all I thought I needed to build a car was some new wheels
Thats your opinion. Dyna mat helps in places where heat is a problem so I can see using it. 50 lbs is nothing really and if its an issue for you tell your 250 lb wife to stay home on cruise night.
It's why we call them restomods. My 67 Beetle is being built as if it were a 70s hot rod, so it's going to be period correct with parts. I'm not updating it to save it's classic appeal.
After watching this video I immediately took off the 17" wheels ordered some steel rallye wheels, and some dynomat. The number one mistake of classic car owners is doing what everyone else tells you.
especially with the dynamat. That shit is a God send. I dont care about the .1 hp per lb im losing. The comfort of the vehicle is dramatically increased with it.
No don't add 50 lbs of sound deadening add 100 lbs of wheel and tire and I'm only at 2:54. He has so much more to teach us, especially if we want a survivor or factory restoration.
@@TA_Plus_Hemi these old cars rattle more than anything on earth sometimes. Adding dynamat keeps the vibrations down. On a drag car I could care less. But on a car for the street I could really care less about 50lbs for the added enjoyment it provides by not hearing every creak.
I didn't realize that the steel wheels and skinny tires were making my LS swapped 66 Beetle no fun. It seemed plenty fun to drive to me. I had a blast driving it and letting it slide. The fact that that I could find used tires that size for free made it all the more fun.
@@shaggy1531 I am not "butthurt" over this video. I was simply stating that my car was plenty of fun even though it had 2 of the things that the maker of the video claimed that would suck the fun out of the car.
While he makes a couple of legitimate points relating to performance in a general sense, this guy has little or no awareness of classic car culture. I’ll keep my 15” wheels, 60 series white letters, lumpy cam, and big double pumper thank you..... My ‘07 GT Mustang is light years ahead of my ‘69 Mach1 428CJ in terms of handling, safety, and overall performance. But it hasn’t 1/10th the style or personality. Guess which one draws the most interest? Stick to your lowered imports and chartreuse 22” wheels and leave the real cars to the grown ups kid.
Imma be honest my donk gbody gets more attention then my classic style 71 mustang or my drag gbody. Except from old guys they like the mustang pretty good but I don't really wanna attract old guys with my car
My 1955 Mercedes 300sl came stock with fuel injection but go off about how classics only have carbs like fuel injection hasnt been in the production of cars since the 50s
You can put 17s on most old cars without making it look like you’re trying to be something you’re not. Or shouldn’t be. 17” torque thrusts on my 65 mustang actually ended up being the perfect size for a wider tire that adds stance but doesn’t look out of place or require too low of a profile tire. There’s still enough sidewall there to look right and really improves the overall look. I think if you go much bigger than that, is when you end up ruining a car. There is no muscle car that looks right with 22” rims wrapped in tiny low profile tires.
There’s a difference between sprung and unsprung weight and a bigger, heavier wheel and tire setup can help with traction and acceleration but I do prefer to go with time period looks
Yes the video doesn't know what torque is plus he tried saying bigger wheels means better braking instead of getting rid of the drums and going with disk he is pointing things out a new driver would say to sound like he knows what he is talking about
@@isaiahtrevino5996 ah no. Increasing unsprung weight doesnt improve anything it detracts. Youd have to rejig your suspension to make that stupid stupid 22" shit work.
"Sucking the fun out of your car" By whose definition? Trying to squeeze 21st century boy racer performance from a 20th century classic isn't the only way to enjoy it. For adults, anyway. So I guess I can infer from your video that you are not a judge at Pebble Beach.
I completely agree. In fact I would argue that alot of the fun in classic cars is the slightly off by modern standards handling. And going as fast as physically possible all of the time is not what I call fun. It ruins the car everywhere else
In the c3 world a lot of people run cooper cobras tires and they love them but there the same people who think a 10-20k car is expensive and rare. Put good tires on your car and rip the shit out of the thing
Honestly, I'm generally going for modern performance numbers but I'm still using 99% old tech. Decent set of heads, decent cam, open up the exhaust, you can't get 400 hp out of a small block and sacrifice nothing (except money), a lot of these cars already had good suspension, a few tweaks to the stock stuff can make a massive difference.
Wow you didn't even watch the entire video before you got butt hurt. Dude watch the entire video I'm pretty sure the throttle body part it shows why this isn't even close to what you're describing.
@@hollowdonte Click reply to the actual person you're replying to. I got that notification and you're replying to Theodore, above, who will not get the notification.
Just because someone builds third car differently than you would build your car doesn't mean they made a mistake. My cars are sound insulated. I prefer the power steering. If you are feeling the road then your car has a poor ride. I like the look of old style steel mags with regular tires with a classic car. I agree about the brakes and tire widths. Your points are considered suggestions not corrections of mistakes.
I was about to type that this is an opinion of this guy video and assuming everyone wants a super sport reaction when hitting the gas. Too bad my man doesn't get the feeling the road comment😂
@@jackfishcampbell6745 not arrogant. Just smart and not acting like some old fool who thinks he knows what he's talking about. Your classic catr rides and handles like shit. Why would you keep it stock? Put bigger wheels on it, better tires, better brakes, better suspension and ls swap it then lower it. Why would you want to ride around in an old car that has the ride height of a truck with the handling of a city bus?
What he's pointing out is correct, however, restoration in it's pure form does not upgrade anything. Dont confuse classic restoration with upgrading your ride.
If I want to drive something that sticks to the road I will drive my newer car. The best part of the old cars is how they ride, the way they float down the road and over bumps
If you need modern handling, modern wheels and tires - why to by old classics? There are modern replicas. Otherwise it`s the same as to bye a tube amplifier and put there modern transistors instead of tubes))
Cause they're hipsters who dont appreciate originality/historical class from old classics. That's why. They gotta put their rainbow flag all over it. They gotta put their traingular wheels on it. They gotta molest it in every single way they can come up with, to completely punch all the greatest vehicle designers ever from yesteryears directly in the face. They should just buy a honda civic
..yep..that's what I think when I see these hacked up classics with all these modern components and modern "looks"...If that's what you want, buy a modern Challenger...
Just because I love the customized 1950 Styleline design does not mean I have any intention to stick to 1950's shit handling or one-circuit drum brakes, heavy slow-ass six-banger with 3-speed manual and torque tube or leaf springs and 6-volt electrics. It's entirely possible to have best of both worlds and let the museum enthusiasts garage the factory specimens with 70 year old tech.
Try a 235/70/15 front on 7in and 275/60/15 rear on 9in staggered set, with a 235/70/15 spare since all 28in tires. The only option for a performance tire is on the rear with a micky et street, there is no option for the front. The street tires in those sizes do fine for power sliding like its the general lee. So instead of trying to steer through say a 180 for autocross, you will want the power to drift it.
50 pounds is not going to have a material negative impact on the handling of a 3,000lb car. It might however have a material positive impact on general enjoyment on long trips in terms of a quieter and cooler interior. And I find it ironic that you would say adding 30 lbs of sound and temp insulation is bad, but then recommend replacing the original skinny tires and 14-15" rims with much wider tires on 17"-19" , which is going to increase unsprung weight (and overall weight) by far more than 50lbs, and unlike the Dynamat, have an impact that can be felt.
@@liam3044 I've got a car (1969) which I remember my late father buying in 1974. I've had it restored TWICE. I've spent more than three times as much on it as the car will ever be worth. Very beautiful, very rare, very fragile. After I die, my son would probably prefer the cash. So I bought another car (1958) and said, "This'll be my daily driver, keep the restoration cheap, keep it simple, I've learned from my previous mistakes". Same thing happened again. I'd love the combined cash total in my bank account.
I guess if you're driving your classic car daily to work, or if you're trying to use it for performance or racing. Personally I like originality, I want the original look and feel it was supposed to have when it was built. There are certain safety upgrades I can see doing, like changing to a dual reservoir master cylinder if your car originally came with a single reservoir. Or using radial tires instead of bias ply since those are awful for handling. Or if you have all drum brakes, putting disks up front. If you never had a sway bar up front, it's not a bad idea to add one. Or, if the rear suspension is sagged down, it can cause poor handling, and you want to correct that. I personally drive normally when I drive my old cars and don't have any problem. I'm not trying to turn them into something like a new Mustang. If I wanted that, then I'd just by a new car. To me, having the originality is the whole point of the experience of owning the car. My point is, some of us like to make modifications, and a lot of us don't. We have our reasons.
Yeah I tend to agree with you. I have a modern car for going fast. For my 68 Camaro I wanted good brakes so I upgraded that but then I had to go with larger wheels and tires so they would fit over the bigger brakes, and then I thought well now I have to lower it so it looks meaner. But my interior is 100% original, I wanted it to be like a time machine with you get in the car. Great comment. Thanks. : ) Do you have a project car right now?
@@AutoGuild Here in Australia we have a road racing class for 1971 to 1974 GM sedans that use single piston front disc brakes and rear drums and they have few brake issues. I think there is much oversell on brakes. They also use 14 inch wheels with street radial tyres. ua-cam.com/video/bFR1t-ZkItI/v-deo.html
Well said. If I were to want to drive my muscle car daily I would do all the things listed. Instead I choose to drive my 20 or 26 year old European sport sedans and leave my 50 year old muscle car in the garage until the occasional weekend outing.
@@amraceway i didnt have any trouble driving my 60's muscle cars, but maybe you have to be more of a man to handle them. Never had a problem with plymouth 4wheel drum brakes they stop hard. Yep, people arent really capqble of driving today, cant text and drive a muscle cars.
These are great recommendations for a racecar but if you plan on driving your car on a daily basis then most of these recommendations would make it a chore to drive anywhere but the store. Low profile tires are probably the worst offender on the list. These cars were designed with thick coushy sidewall tires in mind. My car has 15s and it rides like a pillow on the freeway and with maximized caster its very stable even over 100mph. Mild insulation makes a dramatic improvement in ride enjoyment especially on the freeway when the exhaust would drone. If you have AC you'll definitely want the temperature insulation.
Lon Eggebroten same size wheels for front and back but do an inch taller tire in the rear so the wheels look the same so there’s just something a little off that you can quite put your finger on unless you look closer and it can also help with putting power down, the muscle/street truck that I plan to build out of my 77 Ford F-150 will have this set up. My dad and other family members who were gearheads and hotroders back in the day recommend that way of doing the classic muscle car raked look. (You could also do, for example, a 15x8.5 in the front and a 15x10 in the rear for the wheels to give it more of a tougher look)
I’m building my 76 gmc k15 Sierra Classic to be period correct with an immaculately restored interior, immaculate engine bay, leave the slight patina on the outside, put a 4 inch lift with 33x12.5x15s on my old school 15x10 mag turbines and call it good, and then my 77 Ford F-150 Ranger Xlt will probably end up also being as period correct too but as a street/muscle truck
build your car for what you intend to do with it. I do not care how much better a ls engine is I am running a 327 with a three duces. if you are gong with 70's look (love it) then stay away from anything billet. 15 inch wheels are perfect for that look.
This guy just doesn't understand the fun of a classic, basically he's saying you should change your classic car to a classic touring car. Some of us enjoy the old muscle cars they way they came stock. And since when did any classic muscle car come with a throttle body? His idea of a classic is to turn a piece of art into a new car. Some people do everything he mentioned and that's cool, but not doing those things is not a mistake, its preference. For example if you have a bone stock 70 LS6 SS 454 Chevelle you may want to see how much its worth stock before you change anything. But hey if you can afford to buy that car at a whopping half million dollars, you can do what you want.
The idea of larger diameter wheels is dumb, I can see wider wheels and tires but too little sidewall causes huge issues especially on these classic tires. Edit: chrome wheels are sexy. Also my drums stay.
Larger wheels means you can use larger brakes you clearly don't care about that thou since you (,for whatever reason) like drum brakes better. But when you get into high hp you need better brakes I know you probably like your less hp then cubic inches motors but we putting 800hp builds in these cars now days
Adding Dynomat usually is in place of something, like the original insulation. So, yes it will weigh more, but the refinement that comes with it both in terms of comfort and how it can help with audio quality for tunes is worth it. The reasons you site for not using it really only apply in a competition vehicle.
People use way too much, though. Dynamat isn't a sound barrier. It's a sound deadener. It keeps metal from resonating. It turns the metal ringing noise, like a cymbal, into more of a thud, like the frame. Put a 6” square piece on a crash cymbal and it'll sound the same as using a 10" square piece and just as loud. All the Dynamat does is dampen the vibration. For a sound barrier, closed cell foam should be used.
@@lukebecker1959 idk not building badass race cars and keeping cars stock sounds way gayer than stuffing a 700hp twin turboed ls in one these mfs. But y'all oldheads like having less hp then cubic inches which is super gay
@@shaggy1531 I suppose some of us feel the need to make up our shortcomings with extra horse power. Like a nerd with a sport bike or a tough guy wanna-be with a jacked Super Duty. -- Old Head
Some of these upgrades work well when you're on a nice smooth race track, but most likely the car will be on the street , low profile tires and big sway bars just shake the car apart ride rough. Not saying it can't be done,
Nah it’s all about using the right rims and giving it a good stance. You can make a car look 10x better and just perform better by giving it modern performance wheels. You watch the video? He explains the advantages of having newer large wheels on these cars.
@@prodigy-hu6dy I disagree. Taking away from the classic look with huge rims and rubber bands as tires is not a logical choice and takes away from both the look and function.
How'd so many of you butthurt old morons figure out UA-cam at the same time? If you don't build or drive race cars just say that this video is damn near all facts
@@gearshifterg9756 one of builds race cars and one of us comments on UA-cam videos with no knowledge of building race cars. Tell me 1 thing in this video that was wrong
Ive got my original equipment 15 inch chrome wheels with the Riviera emblem in the center. Ive no intention of making them into some kind of street racer honda civic look
Oversize is relative. 17-18 looks great, esp in the cars with large wheel openings the larger wheels fill the space better. ....20 and over look weird.
The only tips i would see as valid suggestions form most people are the upgraded sway bars, modern tyres and brakes, because these improve drivability and safety in general... But all the other points can just vary due to personal preference, not every build needs to be the same way and one could just choose what kind of build it wants to do. Not everyone wants to increase performance, especially with classic cars i think that feeling (driving and comfort), aesthetic and personal gratification in general are more important for their owners in most cases. Also 19" rims (or in general, very wide rims that force you to choose very low profile tyres depending on the model) on most classic cars would be detrimental for both cost, comfort and performance unless you really want to do racing and need massive brakes for your build.
For at least the last five decades, Formula one has been racing on 13 inch wheels. You don't hear the drivers complaining about poor handling. Larger diameter wheels weight more then smaller ones. Wheels are unsprung weight, increasing this actually detrimental to your cars handling.
In 1963{?} Mickey Thompson went to Indy 500 with a radical new car on 13 inch wheels. It proved fast enough and handled well enough as to have significant advantage over the older styled, front engine, 15 &16 inch, narrow wheeled rest of the field. USAC and the track bowed to the other team owners pressure and made Thompson run the same size wheels and tires as everyone else. The care crashed and killed its driver. Thompson never went back to indy.
Had many 'burbs and a 09 Yahoe now and rust is my only concern with her. Oh and the displacement on demand failing eventually....did not want to accept that though
These are not mistakes, these are opinions. You make some valid points in this video, but that doesn't mean everyone else is wrong. I'm not going to make a resto mod out of my 100 percent original car because it doesn't meet your standards.
50 pounds, that's not that much, These are classic muscle cars, if someone ones a track build and bought a muscle car over a Miata for some reason, your gonna need some serious work to get it to handle, if you want comfort, you out in the dynamax, then you don't care about 5 horsepower and 50 pounds, because hello, you bought a 1970s American car.
I am going to spend the money to restore a classic muscle car... by making it a modern muscle car. Yeah, that makes sense. This guy sounds young which automatically prevents him from understanding the attraction to classic cars, as evident by his definition of 'mistakes'.
And the number one Mistake Classic Car Owners Make is...... watching this video instead of going out for a drive in your classic. This video is all good advice if you like what this guy likes. Bad advice if you are doing something else. Everyone has different goals with a classic car.
Dynamat. IF you want a sound deadener, go to Lowe's, Menards, Home Depot etc, and buy stuff that goes in the walls and the Plate sills on houses. It's basically the same as Dynamat, at 1/10th the price !
Good vid for setting track records. Your average car owner wants 15 inch magnum 500s or cragars because they look friggin awesome. Your performance might be less but who cares. Sound deadening is awesome for daily driving.
There's legitimate science behind having small rims because it actually gives you more grip because your tires will flex and maintain traction on the ground and it generally saves weight
This guy said so many things that are wrong, it would take a ten minute video just to dispel all of the misinformation. Almost everything he said is misleading or even incorrect.
Haven't got to the end of the video yet but wouldn't be surprised if he mentioned something like ' people buying 4 door classic cars because they just don't perform well, and add to the overall weight'.
Another rule of thumb for weight savings. Treat each pound of rotating mass as the equivalent of three to ten pounds of static weight in terms of the effect on acceleration/deceleration.
The whole idea of a restomod is to do what makes you happy, this guy is right, for his cars. I document my mods on my channel, Charley's Garage, but I don't judge what others want to do to their cars.
Some of this is simply incorrect. Staggered tires will increase off the line, straight line performance. They will also increase understeer and hurt braking because the narrower tires font have the grip. What does have an effect on classic cars is the exhaust system. Many people go too big. Up to about 300 HP, dual 2¼ inch pipes with an H cross over is best for low end torque. Bigger does not scavenge as well.
@@immikeurnot It really depends on what you want. A restored car looks better with high profile tyres and stock sized rims. Go for a lower stance rather than big wheels and low profile tyres.
I thought this was going to be educational, like why I shouldn't use Dexcool in my 71 Camaro, or not to use vinyl stripes on 49 year old paint and expect them to come off easily. At least I got to see Mary Pozzi driving her car. ❤️
There are some classic muscle cars that you CAN'T change the wheels on, because there are NO aftermarket wheels made by ANYONE to fit them! One example are the early to late Sixties Pontiacs with the eight-lug wheels. These are NOT just regular wheels with eight lug holes instead of four or five. Basically, they are just the outer band of a 14" steel rim, with no center, and eight tabs, with lug holes, welded around the inside of the steel rim. The brake drums are 12" finned aluminum with eight studs around the perimeter of the drum, and the finned drum serves as the center of the rim. There is a chrome hubcap for the center of the drum to cover the spindle nut. You definitely want this setup on a Sixties Pontiac, because it is rare and valuable, plus they work great! I had a '66 2+2 with a H.O. 421 with Tri-Power and a 4 speed, it had the 8-lug 12" drum setup, it would stop MUCH quicker than my '71 Torino 429 GT with power disc brakes, AND the brakes on the Pontiac WERE NOT power! (It was also much faster than the Torino!) Another is the first gen Oldsmobile Toronados. In case you weren't aware, they are front wheel drive, with the 375 to 400hp 455 V8 longitudinally mounted. They had 15" wheels on a 5/5 pattern, a common pattern for GMs, but what was not common, was the the offset and backspacing. There are people who have put on aftermarket wheels, but the backspacing and offset are not correct, nobody in the aftermarket makes a rim with the correct specs for the car. As a result, people put wheels on these cars that are "close", but suffer from clearance issues and premature wheel bearing failures, as a result. These are just two examples, there are others, but time and space constraints prohibit going into those here. This is all from personal experience on my own cars, and customer's cars at a restoration shop, at which I was a tech for 26 years.
This video should be taken down for inappropriate content. I love the stock/period Correct look of those old cars. That’s what I grew up with! Even the period Correct hot rodded cars, keystone klassics , Crager, SS wider tires in the back skinnier in the front jacked up a little bit, fuzzy dice hanging from the mirror, glass pack, muffler’s, side pipes. That’s awesome.
I’ve played around with old cars with 15 inch wheels and 17cinch wheels and I can’t stand the way the 17 inch wheel cars handle feel everything on the road and the tires don’t give as much as 15 inch size tires so the 17s feel like it wants to slide and break traction Plus 15 inch wheels and tires looks better
Hey boomer we don't add those big wheels to be cool see we build motors that have more hp than cubic inches (I know doesn't seem possible for people your age) which means we needs bigger brakes and to clear the bigger brakes we need a bigger wheel
I miss the old BFGoodrich Comp T/A HR-4. I ran them in a 225/70R15 on my 351/Trailer Tow Package 89 Grand Marquis. The car handled like nobody's business. Upgrading my Volvo 240 wagon to 15s, and will be running an H rated Michelin in a 205/65R15.
The 15” steel wheels on my FJ40 Land Cruiser work just fine. I have lots of sidewall for airing down off-road plus I don’t have to worry about cracking aluminum wheels. The rear drums work good too, and it’s all period-correct and maintaining its value.
About brakes I would add my 2 cents regarding ceramic pads. Also I would recommend not to underestimate the importance of rear brakes. Lincoln Mark VIII had cast iron front and rear stock brake discs and metallic pads. It became time to change out the front pads, and I had had enough of rusting brakes so I put in new ceramic pads and steel discs (regular discs $18, steels $40 each). And I was not happy, there was some improvement, but not much. A few months later I noticed that my rear discs had some noticeable grooves worn in. Although the mechanic said that if they work, then they're fine, I did gave it the same treatment, ceramic pads and steel discs. Whoa! The difference! My 24y old car now braked like a new car! I am not kidding, it had much the same brake feel and performance as brand new Toyotas that the taxi drivers use. So, money well spent.
So you changed the front brake pads with new ones and it didn't make a big difference until you changed out the worn out brakes in the rear. Yet you're convinced using ceramic pads made the difference. 👍 Got it.
50 pounds on a 5600lb 450hp 700ftlb torque, front wheel drive, 500cubic inch v8 car is all good. My 73 Eldorado is all about quiet soft ride with more muscle than any muscle car, so bring on the weight!
I’m sitting here with my stock appearing road runner with manual rear drum and front disc brakes. Upgraded power steering, sway bars, and torsion bars. Frankly I disagree with most of this guys statements because my buddy totaled his 68 charger because his rear driver U.S. mag wheel came apart on the highway and sent him into the ditch... (he survived thankfully because he had recently added a cage) I’ll take steel wheels any day now because of that.... Also drum brakes do the job as long as you’re not tracking the car and beating the hell out of it.
There's a reason why I buy a classic car instead of a modern car. If I'd wanted a fast car that can go around corners I'd buy a modern sports car. Currently I own a fifties car (54 Mercury) that has bias ply tires, cannot go around corners, has a soft suspension, has drum brakes and isn't even remotely capable of (drag)racing. It's an old comfy car that I use to cruise around in. I want it to drive like an old car so that it doesn't feel like the typical mundane modern car. There's a reason why these owners make these "mistakes" as you call it, they want comfort or just something fun, not a race car. Oh and the dynamats are especially good on those older cars because there's a lot of road noise in the cabin
What is left out of the video is if you hit a curb with one of these lighter wheels, it will destroy it. If you hit a curb with the stock steel wheel, you drive home and buff off the scratch. There are more negatives than positives to his suggestions.
I used to be into muscle Cars back when I was a kid, but for the past 4 decades I have been building Street Rods. I remember the drum break days all too well. My 46 Chevy pickup has 4 wheel disc brakes. As for Wheels, I am running a set of chrome wires. I have the stock Sway Bars and Spring on both ends. Oh, Did I mention that the Chassis is a narrowed 95 Caprice Classic Cop car? And No, I sold the Chevy SB along with the Automatic transmission to a friend so that I could get one of those old Mopar V8s that I collected back in the day Freshened Up. She looks like an old farmers truck with the faded Lilac paint job and wood flat Bed. She can't haul the Heavy Load like She did when She was Stock, but She can Haul A$$ Thank You for the video!! Got some good information in it for the beginners.
All of these suggestions will do nothing but devalue classic cars. Plus side, anyone dumb enough to “upgraded “ their classic, makes you stock example more valuable
I keep the bodies and interiors pretty stock. But i upgrade (without cutting) the drive train. If your car drives better and is more comfortable you will drive it more. In my opinion that is the target. Go and drive your car and enjoy it.
@@MikePurdue-ky9pm people say they do but i dont think they actually do. i mean look at all the guys with stock muscle cars. all the do is sit in a garage and get taken out once or twice a month and driven well below the speed limit cus they suck to drive stock. its the modified ones that you see at on the road or at tracks and drag strips actually geting driven and enjoyed. stock for stock a my 90 Camry is more fun to drive than my 71 Chevelle which kind of hurts to admit cus the Chevelle has been in my top 3 list of cars for ever
When my friend in trade-school swapped a 472 Caddilac engine into his '73 Vega Stationwagon, we had to add over 500 lbs of bricks under a sheet of plywood bolted down in the back just to give the car traction on any real attempt at acceleration. Sometimes HP and Torque need weight properly added to use them...
I use 15 because of the look and “sucking the fun outta my car” isn’t a thing I have so much fun in my big 400 hp charger without all these expensive modifications
A largerTB ( don’t exceed 92mm in most cases) won’t add a little HP at high RPM…it will add roughly 15HP-20HP if the car is tuned right . Combine with ported intake and get up to 30HP-35HP…combine with ported heads and get up to 60HP-70HP combine with equal diameter CAI that actually keeps intake temp down ( not routed next to engine) and get up to 75HP-85HP gain.
You didn’t mention that when you add different size wheels and tires that you also have to change your wheel bearings to the ones that will return the car to correct for the out of geometry the car will now have or else you will go through a lot of bearings and suspension components
When you use those large diameter forged or billet rims, most of their weight is on the outside, so they'll have a higher inertia than a steel wheel. Many folks put larger rims on their car, then find the braking suffers, so they blame the brakes. But the brakes were designed to handle the inertia of the smaller steel wheels. So they have to upgrade to larger discs in front and upgrade from drums to discs in the rear. Fine, but most folks don't have a pro touring or pro street or autocross car. As to ride quality, one could argue that any advantage you have from less "unsprung" weight and handling is offset by the harsher ride. Again, great if you're racing your vehicle, or if your town has zero potholes or road seams; not so much if your cruising.
Yeah collectors.... not car enthusiasts who love modding cars and driving there cars instead of garage keeping the cars I still don’t agree with this video let people build their cars how THEY want their cars but definitely take some of this stuff as tips so if you don’t know what to go with you can understand the logic behind the best option for your car
If you want to drive a classic, drive a classic. If you want to drive a new car, go buy one off the lot. I leave my stuff stock, you lose the feeling of what a classic feels and drives like. I have a 73 mgb and a 71 monte carlo. Complimented everytime for keeping it stock.
Sounds fun if you win the lottery. I just knocked some wires back into place and now my tach works so I'm stoked. Not like I'm trying to do much with 100 hp that tops out at 65 down a hill. Heck maybe I could use one or two of these things but all that matters is if you are having a good time.
Check out Auto-Guild.com for a free pre-order download of our LS Swap Survival Guide eBook. Lots of other eBooks and cool car related posters too.
If you're not trying to sell your car. Then do whatever makes you happy. If you're enjoying your car, that's all that matters.
I agree. And if I was selling a car my mindset is : let the buyer change whatever he wants to after he buys the car
Exactly that is the point make it yours.
Best comment on here. I like and appreciate them all. I have a 67 riviera. It has 20" wheels and badass tires. Engine is bored cammed and I got headers on it. Its a fkn beast but I still appreciate others cars the way they want them. I like a donk. I like a slammed car, lifted whatever. I can appreciate others ideas and visions, but I build my cars the way I want them. You don't have to see something the way you would do it to still appreciate it.
I agree.
I thought I was going to like, nope. By this persons logic, if your car isn't an autocross donk. You have built your car wrong. Here's the best piece of car builder advice. Get it running, drive it a year, decide if you wanna keep or sell, make a list of improvements after said year, tackle list one at a time from least to most important. Drive your car! Don't leave it in pieces.
That's a great piece of advice!
An autocross donk🤣🤣🤣, I don't care for stock wheels too much, but I f*cking HATE bigger than 15 in wheels on an old car, well put sir
Man, that hit close to home....I have a car that has been sitting for 18 months or longer. it blew a freeze out plug and the hot start issues I was having with it, among a few other minor things, has just sucked the fun out of it. It is such a simple fix to get it running again....great advice. Thanks for the motivation. I have a few days off, I may just fire the old girl up before the weekend.
@@trentonharris5521 Just a reminder to get out there and crank a wrench
Amen, he is way off on wheels and drum brakes at the least, but I like the content.
Well there’s this thing it’s called having a stock style classic car.
Or ‘Period Correct’.
You mean gay?
@@shaggy1531 You think a completely stock car is gay?
@@mexicanspec I think styling your car to stock look is super gay
@@shaggy1531. The cringe from this comment
WTF?!! I'm not drag racing! Don't care about weight!...and 20" wheels look stupid on an old car!!😂
He’s saying 17-19
@@Mrmudbone_gaming 17 is as big as I’d go on the front... that’s only to clear big breaks
In your opinion...
@@briansiemers9462 big wheels look stupid on old cars... #facts
@@briansiemers9462 Yep.
These aren't mistakes. My car is all original. I would decrease it's value by modifying such things.
It's a cruiser not a racer.
These are mistakes people make when building a car if you're restoring or have a restored/still stock car you aren't building a car your fixing it to factory standard's
@@shaggy1531 You're building a car either way.
@@bremCZ no one your modifying to your car the other your just fixing a car if you tell me you built a car and it's all stock I'm laughing at you
@@shaggy1531 And you think bolting on new rims is building a car? I'm laughing at you.
@@bremCZ wish you told me that's all I thought it took to build a car before I'd never went got an ls motor put all new internals in it twin turboed it and stuffed it in my gbody if you'd told me before all I thought it took to build a car was new wheels you should have told me this year's ago you know how many 351 blocks I went through in my foxbody when I was a teenager entire time all I thought I needed to build a car was some new wheels
Thats your opinion.
Dyna mat helps in places where heat is a problem so I can see using it.
50 lbs is nothing really and if its an issue for you tell your 250 lb wife to stay home on cruise night.
Rich... If guys did THAT, Car Cruises would look like Sausage Parties😅
Or just trade her in for a smaller wife
I love the big gut guys who drag race and spend tons of money to go fast and lighten the car. If only they would go on a diet!
Hey
And then went on to tell us to install more and heavier sway bars!
I’m not quite sure this dude understands what a restoration is
It's why we call them restomods. My 67 Beetle is being built as if it were a 70s hot rod, so it's going to be period correct with parts. I'm not updating it to save it's classic appeal.
Right I have a 66 mustang with a ls
@@fernandovids ls? Whats wrong with the coyote😒
Restoration isn't building a car it's just fixing it
@@DonJulio510 you can get an ls block for $200 at a junk yard coyote not so much
After watching this video I immediately took off the 17" wheels ordered some steel rallye wheels, and some dynomat. The number one mistake of classic car owners is doing what everyone else tells you.
I can't belive that this person has $50-100 for steel wheels. My rally wheels came off of a 67 corvette. Easily worth $750 for the set.
@@dragonheart0219 new steel wheels are cheap. You have classic wheels that are not cheap.
You MUST keep your cool old car and NOT sell it to me for a great price! 😁😁
@@dragonheart0219 yeah they are around $1300 for mine on my c10
You just did what he told you!!! Your a sheep!! How about find what you like and be original?!!!
Sounds like this guy wants everyone to build cars to his specifications. His way is the only way.
Sounds like every Jethro at a car show "You should stuff an LS V8 in it" referring to a Model T Ford.....
Yup, he built a car (maybe) and if we didn't do what he did (supposedly), we're not having fun. What an idiot.
especially with the dynamat. That shit is a God send. I dont care about the .1 hp per lb im losing. The comfort of the vehicle is dramatically increased with it.
No don't add 50 lbs of sound deadening add 100 lbs of wheel and tire and I'm only at 2:54. He has so much more to teach us, especially if we want a survivor or factory restoration.
@@TA_Plus_Hemi these old cars rattle more than anything on earth sometimes. Adding dynamat keeps the vibrations down. On a drag car I could care less. But on a car for the street I could really care less about 50lbs for the added enjoyment it provides by not hearing every creak.
I didn't realize that the steel wheels and skinny tires were making my LS swapped 66 Beetle no fun. It seemed plenty fun to drive to me. I had a blast driving it and letting it slide. The fact that that I could find used tires that size for free made it all the more fun.
Mistakes as in when your building a race car not a toy. Why you so butthurt over a youtube video?
@@shaggy1531 I am not "butthurt" over this video. I was simply stating that my car was plenty of fun even though it had 2 of the things that the maker of the video claimed that would suck the fun out of the car.
That a cool ass Beetle
Little beetle goes like "wheeeeee!" 😄
Beetles have like 40-50 horse power, you really don't need bigger tires on a small car, unless you modify it of course.
While he makes a couple of legitimate points relating to performance in a general sense, this guy has little or no awareness of classic car culture.
I’ll keep my 15” wheels, 60 series white letters, lumpy cam, and big double pumper thank you.....
My ‘07 GT Mustang is light years ahead of my ‘69 Mach1 428CJ in terms of handling, safety, and overall performance. But it hasn’t 1/10th the style or personality. Guess which one draws the most interest?
Stick to your lowered imports and chartreuse 22” wheels and leave the real cars to the grown ups kid.
Imma be honest my donk gbody gets more attention then my classic style 71 mustang or my drag gbody. Except from old guys they like the mustang pretty good but I don't really wanna attract old guys with my car
@@shaggy1531 I guess you’re looking to attract young guys??
@@skylaneav8r902 nah I have classics not jdms
Even some of his performance stuff isn't right. For example, you can definitely get higher performance tires in sizes like 15 and 16 inch.
@@Androctonus84 definitely not...grown ups are talking here run along kiddo
Your classic car doesn't have a throttle body. It has a carburetor.
Yeah he kinda lost the rest of his credibility with that one
My 1955 Mercedes 300sl came stock with fuel injection but go off about how classics only have carbs like fuel injection hasnt been in the production of cars since the 50s
My '70 vw type 3 has the stock fuel injection system and it's still going strong. I'm getting better gas milage than most modern cars.
@@shaggy1531 yeah but we’re not talking about imports
He's talking about if you've done a LS swap
Oversize diameter wheels ruins the look of the car, and look too modern in my eye.
They suck!!! Put some rubber under that car! That rubber o-ring tire shit slams you around hard.
They only look good if they are bumped out to the fender wells to widen the stance.
Ditto
There is a difference between larger wheels and the shitty low profile ones that seem to be in fashion.
You can put 17s on most old cars without making it look like you’re trying to be something you’re not. Or shouldn’t be. 17” torque thrusts on my 65 mustang actually ended up being the perfect size for a wider tire that adds stance but doesn’t look out of place or require too low of a profile tire. There’s still enough sidewall there to look right and really improves the overall look. I think if you go much bigger than that, is when you end up ruining a car. There is no muscle car that looks right with 22” rims wrapped in tiny low profile tires.
This video - don't use dynamat cuz heavy
Also this video - run massive, heavier wheels cuz wheels
There’s a difference between sprung and unsprung weight and a bigger, heavier wheel and tire setup can help with traction and acceleration but I do prefer to go with time period looks
Yes the video doesn't know what torque is plus he tried saying bigger wheels means better braking instead of getting rid of the drums and going with disk he is pointing things out a new driver would say to sound like he knows what he is talking about
@@isaiahtrevino5996 ah no. Increasing unsprung weight doesnt improve anything it detracts. Youd have to rejig your suspension to make that stupid stupid 22" shit work.
A 10” aluminum is lighter than a 6” steel.
@@ronniejohnson317 a 15x7 steel wheel is not heavier than an 18x10 aluminum wheel.
"Sucking the fun out of your car"
By whose definition? Trying to squeeze 21st century boy racer performance from a 20th century classic isn't the only way to enjoy it. For adults, anyway.
So I guess I can infer from your video that you are not a judge at Pebble Beach.
I completely agree. In fact I would argue that alot of the fun in classic cars is the slightly off by modern standards handling. And going as fast as physically possible all of the time is not what I call fun. It ruins the car everywhere else
In the c3 world a lot of people run cooper cobras tires and they love them but there the same people who think a 10-20k car is expensive and rare. Put good tires on your car and rip the shit out of the thing
Honestly, I'm generally going for modern performance numbers but I'm still using 99% old tech.
Decent set of heads, decent cam, open up the exhaust, you can't get 400 hp out of a small block and sacrifice nothing (except money), a lot of these cars already had good suspension, a few tweaks to the stock stuff can make a massive difference.
Wow you didn't even watch the entire video before you got butt hurt. Dude watch the entire video I'm pretty sure the throttle body part it shows why this isn't even close to what you're describing.
@@hollowdonte Click reply to the actual person you're replying to.
I got that notification and you're replying to Theodore, above, who will not get the notification.
Just because someone builds third car differently than you would build your car doesn't mean they made a mistake. My cars are sound insulated. I prefer the power steering. If you are feeling the road then your car has a poor ride. I like the look of old style steel mags with regular tires with a classic car. I agree about the brakes and tire widths. Your points are considered suggestions not corrections of mistakes.
"If you are feeling the road then your car has a poor ride."
Dumbest thing I've read all week. Congrats!
I was about to type that this is an opinion of this guy video and assuming everyone wants a super sport reaction when hitting the gas. Too bad my man doesn't get the feeling the road comment😂
@@immikeurnot lol
The arrogance on display is both amazing, and sad with these young guys .
@@jackfishcampbell6745 not arrogant. Just smart and not acting like some old fool who thinks he knows what he's talking about. Your classic catr rides and handles like shit. Why would you keep it stock? Put bigger wheels on it, better tires, better brakes, better suspension and ls swap it then lower it. Why would you want to ride around in an old car that has the ride height of a truck with the handling of a city bus?
Don’t listen to this guy
He doesn’t know what he’s talking about and it makes him look stupid
I have stock wheels on my camaro
@@donaldhaire4213 actually he is talking 100% truth. Just because you don't agree with what he says doesn't make his statements false.
What he's pointing out is correct, however, restoration in it's pure form does not upgrade anything. Dont confuse classic restoration with upgrading your ride.
@@ringo119 exactly! People nowadays are way too butthurt
If I want to drive something that sticks to the road I will drive my newer car. The best part of the old cars is how they ride, the way they float down the road and over bumps
But just like carbs and drum brakes, suspension components have evolved not only to make the car handle better but to be more consistent and safer.
If you need modern handling, modern wheels and tires - why to by old classics? There are modern replicas. Otherwise it`s the same as to bye a tube amplifier and put there modern transistors instead of tubes))
One word-“Style”
Its known as restomods which is what i plan to do
Cause they're hipsters who dont appreciate originality/historical class from old classics. That's why. They gotta put their rainbow flag all over it. They gotta put their traingular wheels on it. They gotta molest it in every single way they can come up with, to completely punch all the greatest vehicle designers ever from yesteryears directly in the face.
They should just buy a honda civic
..yep..that's what I think when I see these hacked up classics with all these modern components and modern "looks"...If that's what you want, buy a modern Challenger...
Just because I love the customized 1950 Styleline design does not mean I have any intention to stick to 1950's shit handling or one-circuit drum brakes, heavy slow-ass six-banger with 3-speed manual and torque tube or leaf springs and 6-volt electrics. It's entirely possible to have best of both worlds and let the museum enthusiasts garage the factory specimens with 70 year old tech.
Well it sounds like my 300 pound wife is going to have to walk home after watching this, gotta lighten up for that fun ride.
If she that big she needa do more walking anyway. I always feel bad for the suspense In your car
Colin Chapman of Lotus fame once said, half seriously that racing drivers should be as slim and lightweight as jockeys.
There are thousands of high performance tires in 15" Even the BFG G Force Sport comp 2 comes in 15" sizes.
Try a 235/70/15 front on 7in and 275/60/15 rear on 9in staggered set, with a 235/70/15 spare since all 28in tires. The only option for a performance tire is on the rear with a micky et street, there is no option for the front. The street tires in those sizes do fine for power sliding like its the general lee. So instead of trying to steer through say a 180 for autocross, you will want the power to drift it.
50 pounds is not going to have a material negative impact on the handling of a 3,000lb car. It might however have a material positive impact on general enjoyment on long trips in terms of a quieter and cooler interior. And I find it ironic that you would say adding 30 lbs of sound and temp insulation is bad, but then recommend replacing the original skinny tires and 14-15" rims with much wider tires on 17"-19" , which is going to increase unsprung weight (and overall weight) by far more than 50lbs, and unlike the Dynamat, have an impact that can be felt.
BIGGEST MISTAKE:
Spending twice as much on the restoration as the car is worth.
Been there, done that.
Well yeah unless it’s not planned to sell the car after restoration. It it’s going to be a keepsake then it doesn’t matter as much.
Most people restore because they love the car and are not interested getting a return on investment.
He does not understand having a car as a keepsake.
Unless like me your grandchildren get that machine.
@@liam3044 I've got a car (1969) which I remember my late father buying in 1974. I've had it restored TWICE. I've spent more than three times as much on it as the car will ever be worth. Very beautiful, very rare, very fragile. After I die, my son would probably prefer the cash.
So I bought another car (1958) and said, "This'll be my daily driver, keep the restoration cheap, keep it simple, I've learned from my previous mistakes". Same thing happened again.
I'd love the combined cash total in my bank account.
I guess if you're driving your classic car daily to work, or if you're trying to use it for performance or racing. Personally I like originality, I want the original look and feel it was supposed to have when it was built. There are certain safety upgrades I can see doing, like changing to a dual reservoir master cylinder if your car originally came with a single reservoir. Or using radial tires instead of bias ply since those are awful for handling. Or if you have all drum brakes, putting disks up front. If you never had a sway bar up front, it's not a bad idea to add one. Or, if the rear suspension is sagged down, it can cause poor handling, and you want to correct that. I personally drive normally when I drive my old cars and don't have any problem. I'm not trying to turn them into something like a new Mustang. If I wanted that, then I'd just by a new car. To me, having the originality is the whole point of the experience of owning the car. My point is, some of us like to make modifications, and a lot of us don't. We have our reasons.
Yeah I tend to agree with you. I have a modern car for going fast. For my 68 Camaro I wanted good brakes so I upgraded that but then I had to go with larger wheels and tires so they would fit over the bigger brakes, and then I thought well now I have to lower it so it looks meaner. But my interior is 100% original, I wanted it to be like a time machine with you get in the car. Great comment. Thanks. : ) Do you have a project car right now?
@@AutoGuild Here in Australia we have a road racing class for 1971 to 1974 GM sedans that use single piston front disc brakes and rear drums and they have few brake issues. I think there is much oversell on brakes. They also use 14 inch wheels with street radial tyres. ua-cam.com/video/bFR1t-ZkItI/v-deo.html
Well said. If I were to want to drive my muscle car daily I would do all the things listed. Instead I choose to drive my 20 or 26 year old European sport sedans and leave my 50 year old muscle car in the garage until the occasional weekend outing.
@@amraceway i didnt have any trouble driving my 60's muscle cars, but maybe you have to be more of a man to handle them. Never had a problem with plymouth 4wheel drum brakes they stop hard. Yep, people arent really capqble of driving today, cant text and drive a muscle cars.
@@coffindancer38 So true.
If I wanted my classic car to perform and look like a new car, I would buy a new car
Dont you love when the title image is just pointing to random things.....
These are great recommendations for a racecar but if you plan on driving your car on a daily basis then most of these recommendations would make it a chore to drive anywhere but the store. Low profile tires are probably the worst offender on the list. These cars were designed with thick coushy sidewall tires in mind. My car has 15s and it rides like a pillow on the freeway and with maximized caster its very stable even over 100mph. Mild insulation makes a dramatic improvement in ride enjoyment especially on the freeway when the exhaust would drone. If you have AC you'll definitely want the temperature insulation.
The last thing I will do to a classic car is put large wheels on it. 15x6 or less and 15x8. Still handle good.
I want to build a 70s style Street Machine so that would put me in running 15 in Wheels for that period look
Go 15s on the back, 14s in the front for that rubber rake.
Lon Eggebroten same size wheels for front and back but do an inch taller tire in the rear so the wheels look the same so there’s just something a little off that you can quite put your finger on unless you look closer and it can also help with putting power down, the muscle/street truck that I plan to build out of my 77 Ford F-150 will have this set up. My dad and other family members who were gearheads and hotroders back in the day recommend that way of doing the classic muscle car raked look. (You could also do, for example, a 15x8.5 in the front and a 15x10 in the rear for the wheels to give it more of a tougher look)
I’m building my 76 gmc k15 Sierra Classic to be period correct with an immaculately restored interior, immaculate engine bay, leave the slight patina on the outside, put a 4 inch lift with 33x12.5x15s on my old school 15x10 mag turbines and call it good, and then my 77 Ford F-150 Ranger Xlt will probably end up also being as period correct too but as a street/muscle truck
The best style
build your car for what you intend to do with it. I do not care how much better a ls engine is I am running a 327 with a three duces. if you are gong with 70's look (love it) then stay away from anything billet. 15 inch wheels are perfect for that look.
What’s all the yada yada about a throttle body, mine has a Rochester quadrajet.😱😁🤪
This guy just doesn't understand the fun of a classic, basically he's saying you should change your classic car to a classic touring car. Some of us enjoy the old muscle cars they way they came stock. And since when did any classic muscle car come with a throttle body? His idea of a classic is to turn a piece of art into a new car. Some people do everything he mentioned and that's cool, but not doing those things is not a mistake, its preference. For example if you have a bone stock 70 LS6 SS 454 Chevelle you may want to see how much its worth stock before you change anything. But hey if you can afford to buy that car at a whopping half million dollars, you can do what you want.
I agree especially if it's rare, numbers matching, and low mileage.
Flames!!! Everything with flames goes faster. 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Ghost flames add another 10 to 15 hp. I could really feel it!
I’ve never seen a throttle body on a classic car. Never mind my idea of a classic is an antique nowadays.
Hey boomer we putting new motors in these cars so they actually go fast. Unlike the older generation we don't like having more cubic inches then hp
The idea of larger diameter wheels is dumb, I can see wider wheels and tires but too little sidewall causes huge issues especially on these classic tires.
Edit: chrome wheels are sexy. Also my drums stay.
Larger wheels means you can use larger brakes you clearly don't care about that thou since you (,for whatever reason) like drum brakes better. But when you get into high hp you need better brakes I know you probably like your less hp then cubic inches motors but we putting 800hp builds in these cars now days
Adding Dynomat usually is in place of something, like the original insulation. So, yes it will weigh more, but the refinement that comes with it both in terms of comfort and how it can help with audio quality for tunes is worth it. The reasons you site for not using it really only apply in a competition vehicle.
My Chevelle was orderedwith no rugs mats and everything delete, I was never happier!
Oh but you're losing 5 horsepower! The horrors!!! ;
People use way too much, though. Dynamat isn't a sound barrier. It's a sound deadener. It keeps metal from resonating. It turns the metal ringing noise, like a cymbal, into more of a thud, like the frame. Put a 6” square piece on a crash cymbal and it'll sound the same as using a 10" square piece and just as loud. All the Dynamat does is dampen the vibration. For a sound barrier, closed cell foam should be used.
I watched until the bit where he said not to bother with 15" wheels. If I want to run 15" wheels on my classic, I will, and I do.
I mean you probably have less hp then cubic inches so you don't need the bigger and better brake the bigger wheels make
I am so glad that you are telling me about all of the mistakes that I am making with MY CAR
THANKS FOR NOTHING
Paying $400+ a wheel ain't no fun.
Especially 1 pothole later.
Especially when you have to spend even more to tub your car
Theres this thing called keeping a classic car stock and just enjoying them the way they were originally made
Sounds gay
@@shaggy1531 not at all if anything here is gay it's you
@@lukebecker1959 idk not building badass race cars and keeping cars stock sounds way gayer than stuffing a 700hp twin turboed ls in one these mfs. But y'all oldheads like having less hp then cubic inches which is super gay
@@shaggy1531 I suppose some of us feel the need to make up our shortcomings with extra horse power. Like a nerd with a sport bike or a tough guy wanna-be with a jacked Super Duty.
-- Old Head
@@shaggy1531 i have the feeling your a 14 year old who thinks he knows about cars
Some of these upgrades work well when you're on a nice smooth race track, but most likely the car will be on the street , low profile tires and big sway bars just shake the car apart ride rough. Not saying it can't be done,
Build your car for how you drive. I do agree with brake upgrades. Even just getting better rotors and pads will help
Larger wheels on classic cars make you look like a dork.
100% correct! If want large diameter wheels?... Buy a Lexus!
Thank you. Agree 100%
Nah it’s all about using the right rims and giving it a good stance. You can make a car look 10x better and just perform better by giving it modern performance wheels. You watch the video? He explains the advantages of having newer large wheels on these cars.
@@prodigy-hu6dy I disagree. Taking away from the classic look with huge rims and rubber bands as tires is not a logical choice and takes away from both the look and function.
@@prodigy-hu6dy Why? Are you going to take your classic Chevy on a slalom course?!!😂
When some kid gets to play on his mom's computer and makes a youtube video.
Funny guy, where is your content?
@@nerfmaster33 In a content container.
If you are looking for a specific, don't ask a generic question.
How'd so many of you butthurt old morons figure out UA-cam at the same time? If you don't build or drive race cars just say that this video is damn near all facts
@@shaggy1531
Or, just simply admit your trying to fit in like a square peg in a round hole.
@@gearshifterg9756 one of builds race cars and one of us comments on UA-cam videos with no knowledge of building race cars. Tell me 1 thing in this video that was wrong
Just my opinion but oversized wheels look horrible.
I would say they look ridiculous
Ive got my original equipment 15 inch chrome wheels with the Riviera emblem in the center. Ive no intention of making them into some kind of street racer honda civic look
Oversize is relative. 17-18 looks great, esp in the cars with large wheel openings the larger wheels fill the space better. ....20 and over look weird.
Most 90s Civic run 15s.Some factory ones ran 13 to 14. I get the stereotype... Got 1 91 Ef, 3 Old School American Muscle cars. Love them all btw
As a muscle owner I wanted to kick the owners of legit muscles in the face when I see oversized wheels.
The only tips i would see as valid suggestions form most people are the upgraded sway bars, modern tyres and brakes, because these improve drivability and safety in general... But all the other points can just vary due to personal preference, not every build needs to be the same way and one could just choose what kind of build it wants to do.
Not everyone wants to increase performance, especially with classic cars i think that feeling (driving and comfort), aesthetic and personal gratification in general are more important for their owners in most cases.
Also 19" rims (or in general, very wide rims that force you to choose very low profile tyres depending on the model) on most classic cars would be detrimental for both cost, comfort and performance unless you really want to do racing and need massive brakes for your build.
That's why I got new radials built with stock looking side walls that say "Goodyear Ployglas f60 15" handles new but looks old time original. ;
For at least the last five decades, Formula one has been racing on 13 inch wheels. You don't hear the drivers complaining about poor handling. Larger diameter wheels weight more then smaller ones. Wheels are unsprung weight, increasing this actually detrimental to your cars handling.
In 1963{?} Mickey Thompson went to Indy 500 with a radical new car on 13 inch wheels. It proved fast enough and handled well enough as to have significant advantage over the older styled, front engine, 15 &16 inch, narrow wheeled rest of the field. USAC and the track bowed to the other team owners pressure and made Thompson run the same size wheels and tires as everyone else. The care crashed and killed its driver. Thompson never went back to indy.
I have an old suburban, weight isn't even in the top 100 of worries
Had many 'burbs and a 09 Yahoe now and rust is my only concern with her. Oh and the displacement on demand failing eventually....did not want to accept that though
These are not mistakes, these are opinions. You make some valid points in this video, but that doesn't mean everyone else is wrong. I'm not going to make a resto mod out of my 100 percent original car because it doesn't meet your standards.
50 pounds, that's not that much,
These are classic muscle cars, if someone ones a track build and bought a muscle car over a Miata for some reason, your gonna need some serious work to get it to handle, if you want comfort, you out in the dynamax, then you don't care about 5 horsepower and 50 pounds, because hello, you bought a 1970s American car.
Home Depot frost king makes an ac duct insulation that’s like 12 bucks a roll it works well for sound insulation and is also lighter then dynamatt
I've used that shit on my jeep and camaro.
works great
@@jeffmayo6002 yep for sure
I am going to spend the money to restore a classic muscle car... by making it a modern muscle car. Yeah, that makes sense. This guy sounds young which automatically prevents him from understanding the attraction to classic cars, as evident by his definition of 'mistakes'.
And the number one Mistake Classic Car Owners Make is...... watching this video instead of going out for a drive in your classic. This video is all good advice if you like what this guy likes. Bad advice if you are doing something else. Everyone has different goals with a classic car.
Very true! : )
Dynamat. IF you want a sound deadener, go to Lowe's, Menards, Home Depot etc, and buy stuff that goes in the walls and the Plate sills on houses. It's basically the same as Dynamat, at 1/10th the price !
Good vid for setting track records. Your average car owner wants 15 inch magnum 500s or cragars because they look friggin awesome. Your performance might be less but who cares. Sound deadening is awesome for daily driving.
Your average car owner definitely wants 19" or bigger only oldheads who like having 305 cubic inches and 200hp like lil grandpa wheels
The 15 in. Wheel thing was good information, ...I'll switch to 14 in.
There's legitimate science behind having small rims because it actually gives you more grip because your tires will flex and maintain traction on the ground and it generally saves weight
This guy said so many things that are wrong, it would take a ten minute video just to dispel all of the misinformation.
Almost everything he said is misleading or even incorrect.
Found the guy who's never built a race car lol this video is mostly facts you just stupid af
Found the old guy who doesn't know anything about cars
Haven't got to the end of the video yet but wouldn't be surprised if he mentioned something like ' people buying 4 door classic cars because they just don't perform well, and add to the overall weight'.
I kinda want a mid 70's 4-dorr Cadillac, is that weird?
Another rule of thumb for weight savings. Treat each pound of rotating mass as the equivalent of three to ten pounds of static weight in terms of the effect on acceleration/deceleration.
The whole idea of a restomod is to do what makes you happy, this guy is right, for his cars. I document my mods on my channel, Charley's Garage, but I don't judge what others want to do to their cars.
Some of this is simply incorrect. Staggered tires will increase off the line, straight line performance. They will also increase understeer and hurt braking because the narrower tires font have the grip. What does have an effect on classic cars is the exhaust system. Many people go too big. Up to about 300 HP, dual 2¼ inch pipes with an H cross over is best for low end torque. Bigger does not scavenge as well.
I just bought a 67 camaro to restomad at age 19 and these videos are really really helpful on what to look out for
There are extremely grippy 15 inch tyres available.
Just go up to 16 and you've got great choices. 19s are too big.
@@immikeurnot It really depends on what you want. A restored car looks better with high profile tyres and stock sized rims. Go for a lower stance rather than big wheels and low profile tyres.
I agree with some of this, and disagree with some of this. Guess it's up to your taste and preference.
Every time when I see a classic car for sale without its original wheels, I ask: where the hell are they?
I sold mine on Craigslist. 14x6s.
Mistake No. 11 Listening to this guy. ! ! ! ! ! !
I thought this was going to be educational, like why I shouldn't use Dexcool in my 71 Camaro, or not to use vinyl stripes on 49 year old paint and expect them to come off easily. At least I got to see Mary Pozzi driving her car. ❤️
There are some classic muscle cars that you CAN'T change the wheels on, because there are NO aftermarket wheels made by ANYONE to fit them! One example are the early to late Sixties Pontiacs with the eight-lug wheels. These are NOT just regular wheels with eight lug holes instead of four or five. Basically, they are just the outer band of a 14" steel rim, with no center, and eight tabs, with lug holes, welded around the inside of the steel rim. The brake drums are 12" finned aluminum with eight studs around the perimeter of the drum, and the finned drum serves as the center of the rim. There is a chrome hubcap for the center of the drum to cover the spindle nut. You definitely want this setup on a Sixties Pontiac, because it is rare and valuable, plus they work great! I had a '66 2+2 with a H.O. 421 with Tri-Power and a 4 speed, it had the 8-lug 12" drum setup, it would stop MUCH quicker than my '71 Torino 429 GT with power disc brakes, AND the brakes on the Pontiac WERE NOT power! (It was also much faster than the Torino!)
Another is the first gen Oldsmobile Toronados. In case you weren't aware, they are front wheel drive, with the 375 to 400hp 455 V8 longitudinally mounted. They had 15" wheels on a 5/5 pattern, a common pattern for GMs, but what was not common, was the the offset and backspacing. There are people who have put on aftermarket wheels, but the backspacing and offset are not correct, nobody in the aftermarket makes a rim with the correct specs for the car. As a result, people put wheels on these cars that are "close", but suffer from clearance issues and premature wheel bearing failures, as a result.
These are just two examples, there are others, but time and space constraints prohibit going into those here. This is all from personal experience on my own cars, and customer's cars at a restoration shop, at which I was a tech for 26 years.
Good points but I'm not changing my roulette spinner wheels on my '64 vette coupe! Those C2 Chevy engineers did a great job!
This video should be taken down for inappropriate content.
I love the stock/period Correct look of those old cars.
That’s what I grew up with!
Even the period Correct hot rodded cars, keystone klassics , Crager, SS wider tires in the back skinnier in the front jacked up a little bit, fuzzy dice hanging from the mirror, glass pack, muffler’s, side pipes. That’s awesome.
I’ve played around with old cars with 15 inch wheels and 17cinch wheels and I can’t stand the way the 17 inch wheel cars handle feel everything on the road and the tires don’t give as much as 15 inch size tires so the 17s feel like it wants to slide and break traction
Plus 15 inch wheels and tires looks better
Here's a bad idea, listening to this guy
what takes the fun out of your classic car is the cost of all these upgrades. Like adding big ugly wheels and tires to be cool.
LOL!
Hey boomer we don't add those big wheels to be cool see we build motors that have more hp than cubic inches (I know doesn't seem possible for people your age) which means we needs bigger brakes and to clear the bigger brakes we need a bigger wheel
Maybe people don't want to or care about these classic car "requirements" because I certainly don't
They don’t make performance tires for 15 inches, I’ll get drag tires...
I was gonna say this dude done lost his mind.
I miss the old BFGoodrich Comp T/A HR-4. I ran them in a 225/70R15 on my 351/Trailer Tow Package 89 Grand Marquis. The car handled like nobody's business. Upgrading my Volvo 240 wagon to 15s, and will be running an H rated Michelin in a 205/65R15.
Let's see now...Hoosier, Avon, Moroso, Exselsior, Yokohama, Perelli, Michellin. Yeah, nobody makes 15 inch high performance tires. R i g h t.
The 15” steel wheels on my FJ40 Land Cruiser work just fine. I have lots of sidewall for airing down off-road plus I don’t have to worry about cracking aluminum wheels. The rear drums work good too, and it’s all period-correct and maintaining its value.
About brakes I would add my 2 cents regarding ceramic pads. Also I would recommend not to underestimate the importance of rear brakes.
Lincoln Mark VIII had cast iron front and rear stock brake discs and metallic pads. It became time to change out the front pads, and I had had enough of rusting brakes so I put in new ceramic pads and steel discs (regular discs $18, steels $40 each). And I was not happy, there was some improvement, but not much. A few months later I noticed that my rear discs had some noticeable grooves worn in. Although the mechanic said that if they work, then they're fine, I did gave it the same treatment, ceramic pads and steel discs. Whoa! The difference! My 24y old car now braked like a new car! I am not kidding, it had much the same brake feel and performance as brand new Toyotas that the taxi drivers use. So, money well spent.
So you changed the front brake pads with new ones and it didn't make a big difference until you changed out the worn out brakes in the rear. Yet you're convinced using ceramic pads made the difference. 👍 Got it.
50 pounds on a 5600lb 450hp 700ftlb torque, front wheel drive, 500cubic inch v8 car is all good. My 73 Eldorado is all about quiet soft ride with more muscle than any muscle car, so bring on the weight!
I have a problem with the title of this video.
It's my ride, I'll build it as I please.
Who are you to say it's a mistake?
Honestly. This is the guy that criticizes your ride on everything cause he knows everything.
Cause you could have gone with something to get better performance
I’m sitting here with my stock appearing road runner with manual rear drum and front disc brakes. Upgraded power steering, sway bars, and torsion bars. Frankly I disagree with most of this guys statements because my buddy totaled his 68 charger because his rear driver U.S. mag wheel came apart on the highway and sent him into the ditch... (he survived thankfully because he had recently added a cage) I’ll take steel wheels any day now because of that.... Also drum brakes do the job as long as you’re not tracking the car and beating the hell out of it.
This is what happens when all your classic car knowledge is from forza
I challenge you to watch my other videos and tell me I dont have knowledge. : )
If i want a new car feel id buy a new car your ideas takes the fun out driving a old classic car
What I learned in this video is if you use dynamat then switch your rims to aluminum and you will right back where you were on Horsepower.
There's a reason why I buy a classic car instead of a modern car. If I'd wanted a fast car that can go around corners I'd buy a modern sports car. Currently I own a fifties car (54 Mercury) that has bias ply tires, cannot go around corners, has a soft suspension, has drum brakes and isn't even remotely capable of (drag)racing. It's an old comfy car that I use to cruise around in. I want it to drive like an old car so that it doesn't feel like the typical mundane modern car. There's a reason why these owners make these "mistakes" as you call it, they want comfort or just something fun, not a race car. Oh and the dynamats are especially good on those older cars because there's a lot of road noise in the cabin
My 1965 Pontiac Parisienne custom sport 2+2 is as beautiful as the day she left the factory . ZERO MISTAKES .
the steelies vs alum wheels is personal. there are many steelies looking alum wheels that imho suits old car better
What is left out of the video is if you hit a curb with one of these lighter wheels, it will destroy it. If you hit a curb with the stock steel wheel, you drive home and buff off the scratch. There are more negatives than positives to his suggestions.
Plus steelies dont crack when bumping curbs.
I get plenty of enjoyment from my classic, 15” wheels and all.
I used to be into muscle Cars back when I was a kid, but for the past 4 decades I have been building Street Rods. I remember the drum break days all too well. My 46 Chevy pickup has 4 wheel disc brakes. As for Wheels, I am running a set of chrome wires. I have the stock Sway Bars and Spring on both ends.
Oh,
Did I mention that the Chassis is a narrowed 95 Caprice Classic Cop car?
And No, I sold the Chevy SB along with the Automatic transmission to a friend so that I could get one of those old Mopar V8s that I collected back in the day Freshened Up. She looks like an old farmers truck with the faded Lilac paint job and wood flat Bed. She can't haul the Heavy Load like She did when She was Stock, but She can Haul A$$
Thank You for the video!!
Got some good information in it for the beginners.
All of these suggestions will do nothing but devalue classic cars. Plus side, anyone dumb enough to “upgraded “ their classic, makes you stock example more valuable
I keep the bodies and interiors pretty stock. But i upgrade (without cutting) the drive train. If your car drives better and is more comfortable you will drive it more. In my opinion that is the target. Go and drive your car and enjoy it.
lol who wants a stock car? their boring and all look the same.
@@danielbaugher1798 lots of people do. Lots of people enjoy originality
@@MikePurdue-ky9pm people say they do but i dont think they actually do. i mean look at all the guys with stock muscle cars. all the do is sit in a garage and get taken out once or twice a month and driven well below the speed limit cus they suck to drive stock. its the modified ones that you see at on the road or at tracks and drag strips actually geting driven and enjoyed.
stock for stock a my 90 Camry is more fun to drive than my 71 Chevelle which kind of hurts to admit cus the Chevelle has been in my top 3 list of cars for ever
@@danielbaugher1798 yeah but dude. C'mon.. the chevelle is king compared to a camry though
When my friend in trade-school swapped a 472 Caddilac engine into his '73 Vega Stationwagon, we had to add over 500 lbs of bricks under a sheet of plywood bolted down in the back just to give the car traction on any real attempt at acceleration. Sometimes HP and Torque need weight properly added to use them...
I use 15 because of the look and “sucking the fun outta my car” isn’t a thing I have so much fun in my big 400 hp charger without all these expensive modifications
A largerTB ( don’t exceed 92mm in most cases) won’t add a little HP at high RPM…it will add roughly 15HP-20HP if the car is tuned right . Combine with ported intake and get up to 30HP-35HP…combine with ported heads and get up to 60HP-70HP combine with equal diameter CAI that actually keeps intake temp down ( not routed next to engine) and get up to 75HP-85HP gain.
You didn’t mention that when you add different size wheels and tires that you also have to change your wheel bearings to the ones that will return the car to correct for the out of geometry the car will now have or else you will go through a lot of bearings and suspension components
You forgot about the speedometer recalibration.
When you use those large diameter forged or billet rims, most of their weight is on the outside, so they'll have a higher inertia than a steel wheel. Many folks put larger rims on their car, then find the braking suffers, so they blame the brakes. But the brakes were designed to handle the inertia of the smaller steel wheels. So they have to upgrade to larger discs in front and upgrade from drums to discs in the rear. Fine, but most folks don't have a pro touring or pro street or autocross car. As to ride quality, one could argue that any advantage you have from less "unsprung" weight and handling is offset by the harsher ride. Again, great if you're racing your vehicle, or if your town has zero potholes or road seams; not so much if your cruising.
This dude is giving some poor advice. Most collectors will tell you the car has to be original. No mods.
yup because easy bolt ons will ruin the value yup you dont know what you’re talking about sheep.
Yeah collectors.... not car enthusiasts who love modding cars and driving there cars instead of garage keeping the cars I still don’t agree with this video let people build their cars how THEY want their cars but definitely take some of this stuff as tips so if you don’t know what to go with you can understand the logic behind the best option for your car
Ya collectors are stupid. If you just wana collect them by the plastic models
@@danielbaugher1798 Thanks for the compliment.
What’s the point of “collectors”? Cars should be driven, and adding to the car can extend its life. drive it, take care of it and mod it.
If you want to drive a classic, drive a classic. If you want to drive a new car, go buy one off the lot. I leave my stuff stock, you lose the feeling of what a classic feels and drives like. I have a 73 mgb and a 71 monte carlo. Complimented everytime for keeping it stock.
Thanks for the confirmation to the things I've been doing since my moms '68 LeMans. I just know they worked but never knew why.
Sounds fun if you win the lottery. I just knocked some wires back into place and now my tach works so I'm stoked. Not like I'm trying to do much with 100 hp that tops out at 65 down a hill. Heck maybe I could use one or two of these things but all that matters is if you are having a good time.
WOW..... my 65 gt350 will be so good when i do all that stuff to it.... it wont devalue it at all