I have another question for you :) Your Zebra Values for C1 and C2 are ment to use with the gamma assits turned on, right? So in this case, the zebra values on the pure log-footage would be different, same story, when you are using the pantom luts for example, right? Can you provide, which C1 and C2 values you use for monitoring with the pantom neutral lut? thanks a lot!!
Zebras only monitor the log profile so they will show at the correct value no matter if you use gamma assist or not at 52ire. If you were to use zebras on rec709 not slog footage then light skin tones should be around 65 ire@@eike.zender
Finally - someone did it - they finally articulated the problem with relying solely on the In Camera Meter - you're a Godsend Jacques! Great stuff brother :)
Thanks for this. I think the most important thing you touched on was exposing with the camera meter! 99% of people get it wrong and you gave a much more accurate & practical use case for it! Using these methods and Joels (Phantom) LUTs = perfection!
Lekka bru, so glad to hear that! I also got confused by the meter readings so I simply had to figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to comment, hope you have an awesome festive season!
This is incredible. I think you used the least amount of words possible to teach this. Your words to knowledge ratio has to be 1:100, mind blown. Thanks so much!!
Excellent video, thanks! I'd been over-exposing 1.3 to 1.7 stops every time I shot in S-Log3, just because that's what most people say to do, but in my office set-up I'd always be struggling to bring back my highlights far enough. Exposing by eye using a monitor LUT is definitely bringing better results, will be testing out the spot metering soon though. Thanks again, great work 👊
Thanks bro, I fully understand what you mean! I also had the same experience and eventually started relying more on my eyes. I guess it's a combination of things, so for now I first try the camera's tools and then double check it with my eyes.
But how do you expose if you are outside and film while walking around. And ur multimeter is like really jumping up and down multiple stops all the time? Pls someone help!
Jacques, this video is brilliantly concise and phenomenally well put together. I can clearly see the sheer amount of work that was invested. Striving for perfection indeed. Good to see Paige in the video as well!
this is what I wanted to hear. I always set my exopose between 1.7-2.0 before. but sometimes it feels like clips is under exposed on subject. now I know cleary. I should watch it one more time. or two times. haha thanks for the tutorial
Great video 🔥 Easiest way I found is get the Phantom Luts and just expose normally or at .7 When you drop the Phantom Luts its so easy. You dont have to go fo much adjustments. Trust me Phantom Luts is the way to go.
@@armando.visuals It definitely can be, sometimes I can get clean lowlight footage. Just depends on the location and lighting. What helped me last night during my low light video test was setting my zebras to 93.
Thank you! I always thought I am the only one exposing at average +1.7 at the EV but I guess I was doing it right all the time even tho it didn't feel quite right. Would be nice to "recalibrate" the EV that instead of +1.7 you can set this value to 0.
I have watched many fx3 creator videos, Your definitely clearly the best shot. These are some nice scenes. I have been watching crap footage examples for weeks. :)
thank you so much for explaining the problem with multi-meter .. and also thanks for the tips for using zebras on different situations.. best tutorial of exposing slog3 on UA-cam.. (y)
YEs you said it. When I hear people giving straight values fit all makes my skin itch. Zebras are a good tool to compare against the meeter to know that the meter gets it wrong a lot.
This is exactly what I needed! Your channel is a Godsend bro! Excellent production quality, easy to understand explanation, and cinematically engaging at the same time🔥👌🏾
Thank you for this video. When exposing do you set your ISO to auto in order to have control on your MM or the oppsite ? Other youtubers say that we should always aim at ISO 800 to achieve best results.
This is something I have to explain all the time to Photographers who turn to video. The average meter doesn’t tell you anything about the subject you want to expose. False color or zebras are much more accurate and reliable.
I'll take your advice when i'll upgrade to 10 bit camera. I only have 8 bit cameras and when I shoot slog 3 i might get some banding when grading. Nice video.
Yeah man S-Log3 is really difficult with 8 Bit but if you nail the colour and exposure spot on you should be able to get away with it 95% of the time! Just stick to 4K 24/25P
Enjoyed this video. Always love seeing other workflows! Just a note that to get maximum dynamic range, you'd actually want to ETTR, not expose in the manner you're suggesting. Love your end look though! I was never fully happy with Phantom LUTs and ended up with Leeming LUTs as my go-to for technical conversions, which require an ETTR method to squeeze out the full range.
So you are using Spot-Metering everytime? When you are with your zebras at 50 +/-2 are you aiming on the skin? And with 70 at the highlights? And always spotmetering? Thanks for the video! And your work!
Hi Jacques. Thanks for sharing your views on exposing and grading SLOG3. These tips are precise, to the point and super helpful. The best part is that you've explained things using real world examples. Thanks a heap man! Cheers from Aus.
This was amazingly helpful! One last question I have is regarding to the differences between SLOG 2 and 3. Personally, I used to shy away from using SLOG 3 because it was my understanding that it was harder to grade and more prone to noise if not perfectly exposed. Is this something you would personally agree on, from your own experience?
Brilliant video as always Jacques! The best channel ever bro well done!! I was wondering what you thought of the HLG2 and HLG3 profiles? With your immense knowledge and understanding of Sony colour science receiving your insight and best way to get the best out of these profiles would be soooo AWESOME! They seem more forgiving and easier to film with and grade, but that's just my opinion would love yours.
Thanks David, you are most kind! I actually tried out HLG3 for a while but I found that the best skintone come out of PP-Off and S-Log3. HLG is not a bad option but with the new firmware I actually prefer S-Cinetone overall except S-Log3 which I mostly shoot on these days.
@@jacques_crafford I'm shooting in 8bit on A7III, A6600 and A6400 nog steeds troue my maat🙂so I'm comfortable with HLG2 or HLG3 just not sure if I should be adjusting anything in the picture profile. Thank you Jacques
Thanks for this crystal clear explanation Jacques!! Pardon my beginner question but: When people say X stops over exposed, you mean turning the exposure Dial with the camera set on Shutter priority Auto? If I'm shooting in full manual, the exposure dial doesn't do anything!
You're welcome Arnaud! Yeah if you shoot manual the EV dial isn't relevant so the X Stops referred to are either measured with the Meter or just based on IRE values.
This is a great Video, but I will be honest, I am still struggling with Exposure and using SLOG3 through to an Atomos Ninja V. Just as Famau Media has commented, I have been following the exposure to +1.7 and +2.0 and I have been having terrible results. I am a novice, I will admit, and I am trying to learn all of this as quickly as possible having purchased the A7S iii and Atomos Ninja V, when perhaps I should have started and learned the skills on lesser gear. I will admit I am falling back to using S-Cinetone to avoid missing some key recording moments in my life, especially filming my young daughter as it's so key not to miss these things, thus the reason I invested in the best Camera and Monitor. I am still not getting this right, and still have issues with using the MM and the Ninja V Zebras and False Colours (don't get me started on how much I DO NOT understand this! lol). I will keep playing your video again and again and hopefully one day will just crack this SLOG3 approach. I have the gear, I just would almost want 1:1 training in various situations, but have yet to find anyone who can provide that. thanks again for such a great Video. Onwards and upwards !!
It is actually quite confusing between Zebra and M.M. For example, I try to expose the skin at Zebra 56+3 and when reduced until the zebra is gone, the M.M shows +0.3 which is a bit far from the preached value, either +1.7 or +2.0 What is your advice, should I just rely on M.M. or should I follow the Zebra?
I’m planning to rent one of these, and I won’t have long enough to figure out all of its complexities. I’m planning on getting footage of a lake at night (hopefully with a full moon in the shot). With regard to the aperture setting, ISO setting, and shutter speed, what would you recommend for crystal clear footage with no grain and the sharpest possible focus for everything in the frame? Also, if you set all the settings to exactly the way you want them, will it stay on those settings if you turn the camera off/change out the battery/change the SD card/etc? Thank you. :)
Two questions for you 😄 1) How high do you go above 640 native iso before deciding it’s time to jump to 12800 dual native iso and using ND for Slog3? 2) In a scenario where you have low light but 12800 iso is sufficient to control with ND, would you still choose to shoot in Slog3 or would you switch to a different color profile like HLG that handles noise better?
Hey Sina, apologies for the late reply, I'm drowning in comments haha! 1) I don't go much higher than 1250 ISO and 2) I would still ND up if I need to stay in Slog3, I prefer it always!
If I am shooting in SLOG 3 on A7SIII and recording on Ninja V, should my Zebra values be the same on both the camera and the monitor? Say if my C1 Zebra value on A7SIII is 85 should it be also set to 85 on the Ninja? Thank you.
Hey Sam I would say yes although I don't ever use Zebras on the Ninja V, maybe I should try it out but as far as I know they work on IRE values which is universal.
Can you get away with shooting slog3 in 8bit or do you not recommend at all? For purposes of transferring video to phone/editing software, 10bit is really not feasible. What do you recommend in this case?
I'll see if I can squeeze it in somewhere but with HLG I would say it's better to get the exposure between +0 and +1 on the meter if the meter is measuring correctly!
Hey! Great content - I do have a question which is confusing to me. Waveforms - when shooting in Slog3 (Sony) and Using the rec709 Lut monitor , do I based the Waveform of the Slog3 or the Lut?
When you recommend to both do A.) set the skin tone zebra to 50 plus/minus 2, and B.) keep skin tone IRE levels between 55 and 65, how are those two statements related? It seems to me that you are both recommending to set skin tones to 48-52 and to 55-65. I THINK you mean that 50 is some sort of "entry point", where you have some freedom to increase exposure above that level (possibly all the way up to 65), but I'm confused because you also said that when the "first" zebras start to disappear (at 50 + 2 = 52) then you are overexposing.
I can understand your confusion but it's like telling someone which iso to use without knowing how bright it is. You are right in that I'm using 50 as an entry point but Using 50 + 2 will not work on all skin-tone in all situations, and it also depends how bright you want the skin. For darker skin 50+2 will mean overexposure, but also, sometimes I want to keep the skin darker in order to preserve the overall scene so it's all just guidelines but ultimately I look at two things: #1 The highlights and how relevant they are to the scene. #2 the skintone and how relevant they are to the scene OR how bright I want them for example in commercial work I like my skintones brighter than for example a documentary or short film. Sorry if I'm not making myself clear enough in the video, I'm still learning to better communicate this!
@@jacques_crafford So your skin tones generally live between 48 and 65 IRE, depending on circumstances, but can also stray from this range if the situation calls for it? Really digging your skin tones by the way! That's why I try to clear up my confusion.
Love the videos dude. If im shooting on the go, say travel films, could I use a Rec709 LUT in camera just to help me get the correct exposure quickly and then use the phantom luts in post?
All clips graded with PHANTOM LUTS: bit.ly/3cqdikV
Use my code “JAC” for a 15% discount
I use a Sony a7iii which LUT pack would u suggest.
the one for FS7, FS5 and other Legacy Alpha cameras@@GEFitness
I have another question for you :) Your Zebra Values for C1 and C2 are ment to use with the gamma assits turned on, right? So in this case, the zebra values on the pure log-footage would be different, same story, when you are using the pantom luts for example, right? Can you provide, which C1 and C2 values you use for monitoring with the pantom neutral lut? thanks a lot!!
Zebras only monitor the log profile so they will show at the correct value no matter if you use gamma assist or not at 52ire. If you were to use zebras on rec709 not slog footage then light skin tones should be around 65 ire@@eike.zender
Finally - someone did it - they finally articulated the problem with relying solely on the In Camera Meter - you're a Godsend Jacques! Great stuff brother :)
Yeeeew thanks Joel, really appreciate that coming from you! It's been bothering me for a long time so I hope this will shed some light on the issue :)
💯 brother!
Eloquently bro, thank you
The grading looks so clean bro!
DUDE! Thanks for your support man, cant wait to see your South Africa video :) :) :)
Thanks for this. I think the most important thing you touched on was exposing with the camera meter! 99% of people get it wrong and you gave a much more accurate & practical use case for it! Using these methods and Joels (Phantom) LUTs = perfection!
Lekka bru, so glad to hear that! I also got confused by the meter readings so I simply had to figure it out. Thanks for taking the time to comment, hope you have an awesome festive season!
This is incredible. I think you used the least amount of words possible to teach this. Your words to knowledge ratio has to be 1:100, mind blown. Thanks so much!!
Aaaaaaw man that makes me so glad to hear, really means a lot! Thank you Zach, only a pleasure!
This is what I call high quality content! Thank you, Jacques!
Thank you so much Maxim, glad you enjoyed it!
It's such a hit and miss with some of the youtubers training the youth... but this video Is very comprehensive. Well done sir
Really glad you think so. Cheers! 🙏🏼
Excellent video, thanks! I'd been over-exposing 1.3 to 1.7 stops every time I shot in S-Log3, just because that's what most people say to do, but in my office set-up I'd always be struggling to bring back my highlights far enough. Exposing by eye using a monitor LUT is definitely bringing better results, will be testing out the spot metering soon though. Thanks again, great work 👊
Thanks bro, I fully understand what you mean! I also had the same experience and eventually started relying more on my eyes. I guess it's a combination of things, so for now I first try the camera's tools and then double check it with my eyes.
Which monitor lut do you use?
@@jacques_crafford how are you getting that spot meter to move around? LOL
I'm commenting because I want this video to reach more people. GREAT VIDEO🙏
Thank you for the kind gesture! 🔥
But how do you expose if you are outside and film while walking around. And ur multimeter is like really jumping up and down multiple stops all the time? Pls someone help!
I was wondering the same thing
Yes. It’s not a problem if the MM fluctuate. It’s natural
Like he said. Use the spot metering and put it on the spot you want correctly.exposed.
spot metering to the subject instead of multi metering
Zebras for highlights
Thanks so much for this. You're giving me the courage to break away from my S-Cinetone training wheels.... scary yet exhilarating...
Really happy to hear that you are inspired, thank you so much!
Yes that’s exactly me right now losing the S-Cinetone training wheels!!!! Great video!!
You made it all make sense! Exposing SLOG3 has always been a head scratcher for me but this made it all come full circle!
So glad to hear that, thanks Jade! Hope you get much better results going forward!
Jacques, this video is brilliantly concise and phenomenally well put together. I can clearly see the sheer amount of work that was invested. Striving for perfection indeed. Good to see Paige in the video as well!
Yaaas yaaas thanks brother, that means so much to me! Also glad you introduced Paige, was awesome working with her!
Shooting my short film this weekend and binging all your videos before I step on set!
That's a HUGE compliment. Thank you, hope the sort film was fun! 🙏
this is what I wanted to hear. I always set my exopose between 1.7-2.0 before. but sometimes it feels like clips is under exposed on subject. now I know cleary. I should watch it one more time. or two times. haha thanks for the tutorial
Yay so glad to hear you found it helpful, pleasure is all mine! Thanks for taking the time to comment
Great video 🔥 Easiest way I found is get the Phantom Luts and just expose normally or at .7
When you drop the Phantom Luts its so easy. You dont have to go fo much adjustments. Trust me Phantom Luts is the way to go.
Yeeew thanks Armando! I agree, I prefer shooting in that range, makes post so much easier :)
Is this lut good for low light shooting as well?
@@braxtonwoullard1188 yeah but the hardest thing is to expose SLOG3 i low light.
@@armando.visuals It definitely can be, sometimes I can get clean lowlight footage. Just depends on the location and lighting. What helped me last night during my low light video test was setting my zebras to 93.
Thank you! I always thought I am the only one exposing at average +1.7 at the EV but I guess I was doing it right all the time even tho it didn't feel quite right. Would be nice to "recalibrate" the EV that instead of +1.7 you can set this value to 0.
I have watched many fx3 creator videos, Your definitely clearly the best shot. These are some nice scenes. I have been watching crap footage examples for weeks. :)
thank you so much for explaining the problem with multi-meter .. and also thanks for the tips for using zebras on different situations.. best tutorial of exposing slog3 on UA-cam.. (y)
So glad to hear, only a pleasure! Thanks Nafis!
YEs you said it. When I hear people giving straight values fit all makes my skin itch. Zebras are a good tool to compare against the meeter to know that the meter gets it wrong a lot.
thanks a lot and I appreciate your kindness to make this video it’s very important to me thanks for your help
Thank you for the kindness of your comment. I really appreciate that.
This is such an excellent breakdown. I've learnt heaps from this. Many thanks!!
Really happy to hear this. Thank you for taking the time to comment, your support means a lot to me! 🙏
subscribed. because you showed how it performs with multiple skin tones
Thanks so much, glad I could help! Appreciate the support!
This is exactly what I needed! Your channel is a Godsend bro! Excellent production quality, easy to understand explanation, and cinematically engaging at the same time🔥👌🏾
Thanks Joshua, you have no idea how much I appreciate your words. Thanks for your support!
This video saved my life
Yay so glad to hear! Thank you
Thank you so much for making this video! I was always confused on how to expose slog 3. This video really cleared my doubts! Can't wait for more! 💪
Yay thanks for your feedback, so glad I could help Imran!
Best Video I ve seen in this topic! And amazing footage to look at along the way. What a beautiful Model and scenery
Thank you so much, really glad to hear that! I feel like there's still lots to be said about it but this is a start!
Man, u are awesome, great mind, most important information and easy ti understand, thx!
Thank you for this video. When exposing do you set your ISO to auto in order to have control on your MM or the oppsite ? Other youtubers say that we should always aim at ISO 800 to achieve best results.
This is almost perfect. Should be an edit to add that IRE values vary for different skin tones. Not all subjects are pale white.
I purchased phantom luts using ur code Thank you my friend 😊😊
I have the same headphones, book and hard drive sitting in my office lol. Great video!
Haha how cool is that! Thanks Joe!
That is so comprehensive. Lekker vid bru keep up this content
This is something I have to explain all the time to Photographers who turn to video. The average meter doesn’t tell you anything about the subject you want to expose. False color or zebras are much more accurate and reliable.
You betcha! Thanks for your support!
This applies to the FX6 as well im assuming. For all your videos with the fx3 right?
What a great video explaining metering! Thanks!
You're welcome thanks for taking the time to comment!
I'll take your advice when i'll upgrade to 10 bit camera. I only have 8 bit cameras and when I shoot slog 3 i might get some banding when grading. Nice video.
Yeah man S-Log3 is really difficult with 8 Bit but if you nail the colour and exposure spot on you should be able to get away with it 95% of the time! Just stick to 4K 24/25P
Enjoyed this video. Always love seeing other workflows! Just a note that to get maximum dynamic range, you'd actually want to ETTR, not expose in the manner you're suggesting. Love your end look though! I was never fully happy with Phantom LUTs and ended up with Leeming LUTs as my go-to for technical conversions, which require an ETTR method to squeeze out the full range.
Yeah I got you man, I actually enjoy doing Color Space Transform in DaVinci but for quicker turnarounds, the Phantom Luts are simply amazing!
So you are using Spot-Metering everytime? When you are with your zebras at 50 +/-2 are you aiming on the skin? And with 70 at the highlights? And always spotmetering?
Thanks for the video! And your work!
that is needed! this is the best tutorial on the subject. thanks for sharing, Jacques. I'm looking forward to your alphauniverse content!
Thanks Niklas, that means a lot to me! Hope you enjoy the grading tutorial!
Hi Jacques. Thanks for sharing your views on exposing and grading SLOG3. These tips are precise, to the point and super helpful. The best part is that you've explained things using real world examples. Thanks a heap man! Cheers from Aus.
Yeeew thanks Patrick, so glad to hear that man! I hope to make many more like this one! Cheers from South Africa
What a great breakdown on exposing, thank you.
Thanks Antonio, grateful for your feedback!
So you can only dial in exposure when iso is set to automatic? When I’m native iso it doesn’t allow you to manually under or over expose. ??
Trying to figure out metering on the A7siii was driving me crazy. This has helped so much. Will be using your zebra approach. Thank you! 👊🏿
So glad to hear that bro, thanks for taking the time to give your feedback!
epic bru! been trying out slog 3 at work!
Lekka bru, where you working now! Sounds awesome, enjoy!
You're amazing ! Thanks for all the great videos. Learning a lot!
Thanks you are most kind, so glad to hear that!
This was amazingly helpful! One last question I have is regarding to the differences between SLOG 2 and 3. Personally, I used to shy away from using SLOG 3 because it was my understanding that it was harder to grade and more prone to noise if not perfectly exposed. Is this something you would personally agree on, from your own experience?
def gotta try out the spot metering!
This video is nicely put together, you got a new Sub here. Thanks for the excellent explanation.
Aaaaw thanks for your kind words, really appreciate it!
This video is amazing! could you tell me how to expose s-log 3 underwater more or less?
thanks in advance!
And that's how it's done! all raise....*applause*
Whooooaaa thanks for your beautiful comment!
Thank you very much 😊
You are most welcome, thanks for your comment!🔥
Thanks again for the awesome information! You always put out such great videos!
Thanks for your wonderful support Timmy, really glad to hear you enjoyed it!
YOUR CONTENT IS AMAZING! THANK YOU :)
Thank you so much, really appreciate your feedback!
amazing video! thank you very much!!!
Glad you liked it!🙏🏼
AMAZING video and useful as always. Respect man for sharing amazing knowledge for free 🍻
Only a pleasure man, appreciate you taking time to write this!
Great video !! Love the shots with the rhino!! Regards to Ant
Thanks so much dude!
Brilliant video as always Jacques! The best channel ever bro well done!! I was wondering what you thought of the HLG2 and HLG3 profiles? With your immense knowledge and understanding of Sony colour science receiving your insight and best way to get the best out of these profiles would be soooo AWESOME! They seem more forgiving and easier to film with and grade, but that's just my opinion would love yours.
Thanks David, you are most kind! I actually tried out HLG3 for a while but I found that the best skintone come out of PP-Off and S-Log3. HLG is not a bad option but with the new firmware I actually prefer S-Cinetone overall except S-Log3 which I mostly shoot on these days.
@@jacques_crafford I'm shooting in 8bit on A7III, A6600 and A6400 nog steeds troue my maat🙂so I'm comfortable with HLG2 or HLG3 just not sure if I should be adjusting anything in the picture profile. Thank you Jacques
What's is picture profile did you used? and how did you customize on slog?
Clean and detailed. love it
Thanks a ton Nick!
Informative video! But your false color section had no false color and just covered waveform.
Thanks for this crystal clear explanation Jacques!!
Pardon my beginner question but: When people say X stops over exposed, you mean turning the exposure Dial with the camera set on Shutter priority Auto? If I'm shooting in full manual, the exposure dial doesn't do anything!
You're welcome Arnaud! Yeah if you shoot manual the EV dial isn't relevant so the X Stops referred to are either measured with the Meter or just based on IRE values.
Lekker yster! Ek het dit nou geniet man! Jy is baie natuurlik voor en agter die kamera. Hou so aan!
Whoooohooo dankie brother, dit beteken so baie vir my! Ek kan dieselfde vir jou sê, altyd lekker om jou te sien praat :)
Very impressive tutorial! Thanks!
So glad to hear that you're welcome!
Dang man, what a great and helpful video! Thank you!
You're most welcome, thanks for taking the time to give feedback :)
Great video! But so you use the Zebra C1 for shooting people to expose correctly ? And C2 for when you are shooting objects?
super informative, thank you
This is a great Video, but I will be honest, I am still struggling with Exposure and using SLOG3 through to an Atomos Ninja V. Just as Famau Media has commented, I have been following the exposure to +1.7 and +2.0 and I have been having terrible results. I am a novice, I will admit, and I am trying to learn all of this as quickly as possible having purchased the A7S iii and Atomos Ninja V, when perhaps I should have started and learned the skills on lesser gear. I will admit I am falling back to using S-Cinetone to avoid missing some key recording moments in my life, especially filming my young daughter as it's so key not to miss these things, thus the reason I invested in the best Camera and Monitor. I am still not getting this right, and still have issues with using the MM and the Ninja V Zebras and False Colours (don't get me started on how much I DO NOT understand this! lol). I will keep playing your video again and again and hopefully one day will just crack this SLOG3 approach. I have the gear, I just would almost want 1:1 training in various situations, but have yet to find anyone who can provide that. thanks again for such a great Video. Onwards and upwards !!
Awesome video! Thank you 👍
Thanks so much, glad you like it!
Wow just discovered your channel. This was extremely well done! 👏🏾👏🏾👏🏾
Thank you so much! Really appreciate your comment! 🙏
Hi guys, always using a grey disc can be a solution too to never miss ?
It is actually quite confusing between Zebra and M.M.
For example, I try to expose the skin at Zebra 56+3 and when reduced until the zebra is gone, the M.M shows +0.3 which is a bit far from the preached value, either +1.7 or +2.0
What is your advice, should I just rely on M.M. or should I follow the Zebra?
Question for ya: If S-log3 clips at 94+, why do you use zebras at 75 to judge highlights instead of bumping up higher, like 85 or 90?
Hello! One doubt here: if you are using ATOMOS NINJA V and exposing Slog 3, how you need to configure the monitor, in NATIVE mode?
Amazing video. I would loveeeee to see a S&Q slog settings
Thanks Aramis! I use the exact same settings in S&Q, PP8 Standard (S-Log3.gamut3.cine) with detail -7
@@jacques_crafford thank you!! And the phantom luts. Do they work well with the a1 as well?
Cool man, yeah the Phantom Luts work super well on the A1!
I’m planning to rent one of these, and I won’t have long enough to figure out all of its complexities. I’m planning on getting footage of a lake at night (hopefully with a full moon in the shot). With regard to the aperture setting, ISO setting, and shutter speed, what would you recommend for crystal clear footage with no grain and the sharpest possible focus for everything in the frame? Also, if you set all the settings to exactly the way you want them, will it stay on those settings if you turn the camera off/change out the battery/change the SD card/etc? Thank you. :)
Great Content as always!
Thanks Henri, really appreciate it!
Brilliant thanks.
Thanks man, great video! I'm learning a lot!
I'm so glad to hear that, thanks for supporting my channel Rune!
Very helpful, thanks!
Yay you're welcome!
Great watch ! Can you do a video on false color one day, preferably w the atomos ninja V 🍻
What a guy
Questions. The new FX30 has 709 and 709(800%) and they give two different zebra clipping point. which one should i use?
nice video. I use a monitor for checking the zebras andmultimeter. Lovely for my Weddingvideography. Good work :-)
Awesome, thanks for the support Thomas!
Very good and beautiful your work my congratulations from Italy
Thanks, much appreciated! I love Italy!!!
Nice one, Thanks
Yay thanks, only a pleasure!
Subbed. This is all useful info even though it's beyond my knowledge right now.
Thanks Jay, only a pleasure! I hope it comes in handy soon :)
Still gonna sell my a7iii and Eos 200d and other gear to get this camera. Just watching this rn while washing the dishes
dude, what a class 🤌
Thanks dude!
Two questions for you 😄
1) How high do you go above 640 native iso before deciding it’s time to jump to 12800 dual native iso and using ND for Slog3?
2) In a scenario where you have low light but 12800 iso is sufficient to control with ND, would you still choose to shoot in Slog3 or would you switch to a different color profile like HLG that handles noise better?
Hey Sina, apologies for the late reply, I'm drowning in comments haha! 1) I don't go much higher than 1250 ISO and 2) I would still ND up if I need to stay in Slog3, I prefer it always!
If I am shooting in SLOG 3 on A7SIII and recording on Ninja V, should my Zebra values be the same on both the camera and the monitor? Say if my C1 Zebra value on A7SIII is 85 should it be also set to 85 on the Ninja? Thank you.
Hey Sam I would say yes although I don't ever use Zebras on the Ninja V, maybe I should try it out but as far as I know they work on IRE values which is universal.
@@jacques_crafford thank you for the reply man. I’ve been searching for a definite answer to this and can’t seem to find it anywhere :)
Can you get away with shooting slog3 in 8bit or do you not recommend at all? For purposes of transferring video to phone/editing software, 10bit is really not feasible. What do you recommend in this case?
Can you please make a video how to expose for hlg Sony
I'll see if I can squeeze it in somewhere but with HLG I would say it's better to get the exposure between +0 and +1 on the meter if the meter is measuring correctly!
Hey! Great content - I do have a question which is confusing to me.
Waveforms - when shooting in Slog3 (Sony) and Using the rec709 Lut monitor , do I based the Waveform of the Slog3 or the Lut?
When you recommend to both do A.) set the skin tone zebra to 50 plus/minus 2, and B.) keep skin tone IRE levels between 55 and 65, how are those two statements related? It seems to me that you are both recommending to set skin tones to 48-52 and to 55-65. I THINK you mean that 50 is some sort of "entry point", where you have some freedom to increase exposure above that level (possibly all the way up to 65), but I'm confused because you also said that when the "first" zebras start to disappear (at 50 + 2 = 52) then you are overexposing.
I can understand your confusion but it's like telling someone which iso to use without knowing how bright it is. You are right in that I'm using 50 as an entry point but Using 50 + 2 will not work on all skin-tone in all situations, and it also depends how bright you want the skin. For darker skin 50+2 will mean overexposure, but also, sometimes I want to keep the skin darker in order to preserve the overall scene so it's all just guidelines but ultimately I look at two things: #1 The highlights and how relevant they are to the scene. #2 the skintone and how relevant they are to the scene OR how bright I want them for example in commercial work I like my skintones brighter than for example a documentary or short film. Sorry if I'm not making myself clear enough in the video, I'm still learning to better communicate this!
@@jacques_crafford So your skin tones generally live between 48 and 65 IRE, depending on circumstances, but can also stray from this range if the situation calls for it? Really digging your skin tones by the way! That's why I try to clear up my confusion.
Goods Stuff bro thanks
Only a pleasure bro, thanks for taking the time to comment!
Very good Jacques 👏 but I think I don’t have a spot meter at my Fx6 🤔
Thanks mate, with the FX6 I just use the Waveform as that always gives me the best results!
@@jacques_crafford thanks 🙏 I will try it 👍🏻
Very Nice ! Thanks for sharing !
Yay glad to hear that, you're welcome!
Love the videos dude. If im shooting on the go, say travel films, could I use a Rec709 LUT in camera just to help me get the correct exposure quickly and then use the phantom luts in post?
So for the examples you've shown, which method do you use the most when using an external recorder.... false colour, IRE, zebras or spot metering?
I use the Waveform, just because it's faster than False Color!