Machining a Conrod for the Retro V-Twin
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- Опубліковано 11 лют 2025
- In today's Video I show you how I machined a connecting rod for my lost foam cast V Twin engine on my converted CNC Mill. The conrod is made from 1045 hot rolled steel and will run bronze bushings in the small ends. I designed and programmed the part in Fusion 360 before machining it from 25x25mm square stock.
The rod weighs 100 grams making it lighter than a stock Lifan pit bike conrod by 14 grams. All in all I am happy with the result and am one step closer to completing this project.
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Absolutely show your mini bike endeavors. I don’t really have an interest in racing myself, but I enjoy watching people attempt to solve mechanical problems
I absolutely love this shit, I basically have the same CNC converted mill, I also do pitbike/minibike racing and go big bike racing from time to time...
Please also share your minibike racing stuff, I love to have found someone sharing so many common interests :)
Glad you’re enjoying it, what kind of things are you making on your mill?
I should upload the racing regularly, I keep putting off buying an action camera though haha.
@OddsandEndsMachining I have made some sheet metal forming tools, because I used to do that before professionally before I switched professions :)
And now I do some pitbike adjustable foot pegs, tripleclamp and some other accessories.. I'm looking into fixturing some of the stuff and selling it, small scale for fun... And because I get asked a lot where I got it 😄
I'm really intrigued by your casting and engine building stuff, but I'm hesitant to put the time into designing it, just to fail after a couple of minutes or hours running 😄
After all I'm not an engine designer, and my software engineering degree won't help much there 😄
But I might try building a frame, I really loved that! It seemed quite straight forward, but I would 3D scan a minigp or buccimoto first I guess, just to get in the right ballpark regarding dimensions, and maybe put some time into some solidworks analysis, see if I can improve on the design..
For recording the racing just buy a 360 camera, insta360 X2 will do, those go quite cheap now, and it's pretty hassle free, just clamp it somewhere and forget about it 😁
The frame building isn’t so bad. I just used the rake/trail and wheelbase listed on the Bucci website and overlayed a sketch on a scaled 2D picture of the chassis. The only way to get into it is by doing it, notching tube is also a massive PITA and it is quite time consuming.
I wonder if a insta 360 is better or a go pro.
@@OddsandEndsMachining thanks for the tip, getting that data from spec sheets seems like a good idea 👌🏻
Regarding cameras: first of all I'd go with insta360/DJI cameras anyway, since GoPro has long lost its advantage over competitors, even worse they surpassed GoPro by now, only the pricetag of GoPro stayed the same, features are lacking and I don't see a real reason to stick to GoPro, competitors offer better features and better software for the same or lower price.
Then decision between classic action cameras and 360 cams is a no brainer for me.. I want to clamp the camera somewhere, hit record and then see afterwards what was interesting or which angle to pick, I just get everything and choose after the fact.. with classic action cams you have to think about your shot before you take it, and you only get one angle per camera, in my opinion it's for more demanding users, the might be after the higher resolution, maybe better colors or image quality.. I don't care, I want a hassle free experience using it, which will lead to me using it in the first place, I can't be bothered to set up cameras for 30 minutes first so I go with a single 360 cam and get everything that's it...
Only small downside for me so far regarding racing: there is almost no 'natural' motion blur, so speed won't come across as well, but there is an easy option in the app you just activate when exporting to add it, that's it..
If you want to go cheap go X2, if you want higher fps (looks much better when racing) go x3 or X4 :)
Between you and 2StrokeStuffing, I'm learning a _lot._
One of the things I'm learning is that I _really_ want a mill. I could modernize a _lot_ of parts in in my 48 Willys CJ2L
Thank you, once you get yourself a mill you’ll start to realise you can make almost anything.
My only advice would be to get the biggest one you can fit in your workshop that’s within your budget.
I wish everyone had a mill, lathe CNC Machine plasma cutter tig mig ark welder Lazer ETC We would be so much more advanced than what we are now!
the other issue is most people seem to have no grasp of basic physics or mechanical basics... content with watching footy, thinking of sex, and food... what a dull existence some people lead...
Life would be a whole lot simpler being content with such mundane things haha.
it's coming on!!
1:57 Dude I’m loving your videos! I’d totally like to see you going out and racing your mini bikes. It would be cool to see one from the start of its fabrication to racing it. I’m especially curious about the ins and outs of making the frame, thinking I’d like to start to build one myself.
I’ll be making another video soon of welding up a frame from start to finish
@@OddsandEndsMachining Awesome! You rock man!
Very nice work sir.
You have definitely put in alot of work man hopefully itll could work out you make some good money on makeing them i do sujust better valves in them heads thin stock tho iv had a few brake an burn though on my kids small forwheelers
Thanks. This is getting a fairly safe rev limiter so hopefully we don’t run into any issues.
Looking good 👽
Haha awesome video.
I find the explaining at the end could have been done as an overlay while you were showing the machining?
What’s the mill! It looks awesome.
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Thanks, and thanks for the feedback. I would usually try and do something like that but was maxed out on the footage, I was pretty slack with filming during the machining.
Even on a lightweight bike and frame, there are a lot of forces that multiply and or add up together, on key parts you will need likely double the wall thickness of tubular sections, joining plates more than you think you think is alright...,
As well as adding more the main/major supporting webbings & buttresses being tougher and as close to the force-loaded area(s)/pivot(s)/sub-assemblies etc, and requiring longer weld lengths for greater inter-surfaces connection area wherever able to do so. In some places you already have saved weught by the small bike nature, bur in others, you need more within the componentry parts.
All for longevities sake (and piece of mind(s) in the long run)Please !!
In aiding in resistance to unforseen forces, as you are creating this from your natural mind and general 'yeah that looks about right',
..things like bodyweight, learning, foot pressures, steering and frame twisting and bending (cantileveringl compressional and torsional) from suspension forces all interacting with the generated gyroscopics and constant dynamically twisting & changing centrifugal force additoins from rifing and the engine/gerbox.
That’s for that explanation. At least this was a good lesson with no real consequences. I’ll be able to keep all that in mind for the next one.
Luckily this one is destined for the bin and I’ve made a new jig and have a new more conventional chassis I’ll be fabricating.
@@OddsandEndsMachining sorry about the typos. ...I hope you was able to get enough of the gist, ..I can fix those if you wish?
The torsionly twisted suspension mounting tube to bend and twist like that indicates well the forces involved - it's not your overall design is wrong, or styled incorrectly, it's getting there and looks good, ..although from the unpainted look, your tubes seem like a from of general automotive mild steel?
it just needs some more more tubular triangulations at least with some thicker metal sections, plates, webbs, brackets, being welded in as (weld length) load force/spreading webbing(s) around the suspension pivots areas and the new shock mount, - usually the monoshock mounting cross-frame box section are over 4mm thick being massively thick and relatively deep if of double tubes welded atop each other, with large angular butress force supporting webs, compared to the sidewalls/sidetubes of a frame as your riding weight is feeding directly into the mount and then the shock.
maybe another 1 or 2 of the existing main tubes per side with some additional buttressed headstock supporting triangulations too.
As a 'mark 1..whatever sub variant, that frame is a good '1st' point to work from :¬D
Bro! Did you steal my curtains?
I’m glad I’m not the only one suffering haha.
My old house had those curtians too hahahahahahaha
Why out of steel? Duralumin would have been a better choice.
I just happened to have a piece the right size and am not super worried about the weight. The rpm will be kept relatively low.
Millyard moto
Stop buying Chinese end mills. Problem solved.
I will probably buy a couple of decent ones I can use for steel. Otherwise the cheap ones last a very long time in aluminium.
Bruh only left chanel sound