He didn't go into the mold details in this video but am assuming he coated foam with a refractory coating to create a shell. They call it lost foam casting, the coatings used usually have ceramic in them. The sand is then just to support it during the pour. Good choice for engine blocks and things of that nature.
The fact you are building your own engine from start to finish. Says a lot about your intelligence and work ethics. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
Easily got my thumbs up! Was no stupid music, got to hear a lot of the actual sounds of the processes, provided a lot details, and just an overall down-to-earth video. Thanks for sharing
The secret to hardening sand casted aluminum is cryo tempering. I had a 1953 HD, and one after market cylinder exploded, letting the piston cock sideways, and come down blowing the cases apart. A man who welded for NASA, tried welding the parts together, but on the thin sides of the case he got spider cracks that he chased forever. He told me he tried heating in an over and welding while still extremely hot, and still spider cracks. I read about race car drivers cryo tempering the engines, and parts. So I tried it. After the tempering, a union welder, came in and welded them up like it was modern aluminum. no cracks, worked like a charm. After welding the heat put different stresses in the metal, so I cryo tempered them, a final time after welding, and the engine is still running today, after being blown in to pieces, and put back together again. Try it, it is not expensive, and it the best thing that ever happened to sand casted aluminum
Take that goofy swivel base off that mill vise & bolt it straight to the mill table- you'll gain height and lose floppyness and have a more rigid setup
Cool project, subscribed to follow your progress. Your castings come out nice, like the setup you have. My last casting I made an error and miscalculated the amount of aluminum I needed, came up short on the pour. So much time preparing for it, live and learn.
Thank you. That’s unfortunate, I know the feeling. I guess it’s a lesson you won’t soon forget. I usually get the weight from my cad model and also add the weight of the gating and sprue and then a bit extra for fudge factor.
Really love this type of builds engine merging isnt a new thing and an easy thing but u make it seem so easy todo! hopefully you decide to make big displacement engines sometime in the future 500cc,600-1000cc love watching all your videos!
Should have plenty of the Cyber truck rear frames to melt down soon enough. First time anyone uses it as a real truck it's going to break and rip off lol.
I've never seen that type of casting. Simply amazing. How does the sand not fall in and collapse as the foam melts? I thought I was fairly smart but I guess not😂 time to watch some UA-cam foam casting theory LOL. Thank you for posting!
The G83 cycle (often called peck drilling) is intended for deep drilling or milling with chip breaking. The retracts in this cycle clear the hole of chips and cut off any long stringers (which are common when drilling in aluminum).
This is how all the holes were drilled. Other than the hand programmed G code which didn’t peck. One of the oil gallery holes was 3.5mm diameter and 45mm deep it required a full retract after each peck to give it the best chance of going straight, due to there only being 2mm of stock either side of the gallery.
Yes, it is done on some high end race motors, it’s good when they come apart fairly often. I won’t be doing it on this motor, my spindle is far too slow for a 2-2.5mm end-mill. It’s also costs in more time and material than cutting out a paper gasket.
This just popped up in recommended, I watch far too many machining video's but making a V-twin- cool stuff (I was a motorcycle mechanic at various dealers in 1970's~90's then taught at MMI Orlando almost 12 years). Love the irony of making IC engine from Tesla parts. What top ends are you going to use? I see you have slots for cam chain, looks like Honda pattern (XR200's?) Keeping the Kiwi tradition going, great stuff, I'll subscribe
@@OddsandEndsMachining That's really cool. In te 80's I wanted to do similar with XL185 top ends as I had a few. Never got around to being anything morethan a dream though. I still haven't done any casting either, always seems to be something more important (usually expensive) to fix instead (particularly since I got married) 🙄
@@michiel1362 having ball screws, I almost exclusively climb mill on this machine as the backlash is minimal. It’s better for your tools in most situations and results in less rubbing.
Not here for the nooks and crannies castings.. Well maybe Here for the fush an chups bro!🇭🇲😂... Big modified tractor pull at my place. Spring Ridge NSW.. Ohhhh were all pullin 👍 The V engine is bonus batter ..
Using either a CNC router or my CNC mill. If you check out some of my first videos you will see how I did it. You could always use a wire cutter for foam.
Without any legitimate way of verifying the heat treatment I think it went quite well 😂. I went for a T5 heat treatment as it is 80% as good as T6 but a whole lot easier to achieve.
Consider a proper micrometer to measure bores and shafts rather than calipers. Should gain at least 10x accuracy. You’re not accurately measuring microns with a calipers. Otherwise, impressive work!
Thank you, I have a mitutoyo 0-150mm set that measure .01mm but sometimes they are a bit less convenient, I should really get into a habit of using them when the tolerances dictate.
After watching your lost casting and subsequent machining, I had an idea that I was wondering if you’ve tried: Have you ever considered putting Heli-Coil threads into the foam casting along with white oak wooden dowels spun into their center as plugs but sticking out into the sand by around 4” to help secure their relative location as the supporting foam is lost? You wouldn’t need to worry about getting it lined up with the top since you’ll just be machining that surface flat anyway and the wood dowels will undergone a quick carburizing with little oxygen so they won’t burn away but their exterior in contact will quickly turn to charcoal making removal and cleanup simple and quick. I know nothing of lost foam casting and barely anything of traditional sand casting aluminum so I can understand if my thought fails at a fundamental level because of something like the high heat ruining temper of coils OR more technical challenges like the aluminum skin fails to bond with the exterior of the coil or the protruding coil may potentially disrupts the molten metals skin causing it to fold over and create defects which in turn could lead to voids or weakened sections at the location of the folding. Anyway just a passing thought, I enjoyed the video and was able to inference a few things based on how you made your fill channels.
Thanks. It is something that is done on some die castings where they have pre positioned steel parts which are cast around. I’ve seen it done for main bearing bores. This is likely because steel can take more of a hammering before the bores elongate. A reason I don’t think this would be a good idea for threads is when it comes to facing the parts the helicoils are very hard and won’t machine very well. Also getting them perpendicular to the machined surface is easier to do once it is machined.
This is cool but you're losing the gearbox and clutch. Board track replicas accept classic preformance to have a classic design. Gonna go with no brakes like they used to? No throttle just cut the ignition to reduce speed like they used to.
Good to see engineering is still alive in this country with virtually all heavy industry , foundries and training shut down . 🇳🇿
I learnt something today! I have never seen casting in dry sand like that before.
He didn't go into the mold details in this video but am assuming he coated foam with a refractory coating to create a shell. They call it lost foam casting, the coatings used usually have ceramic in them. The sand is then just to support it during the pour. Good choice for engine blocks and things of that nature.
The fact you are building your own engine from start to finish. Says a lot about your intelligence and work ethics. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
Thanks, I don’t think the finish will be too far away.
Great sponsors and a large workshop fully equiped, too 😁
Easily got my thumbs up! Was no stupid music, got to hear a lot of the actual sounds of the processes, provided a lot details, and just an overall down-to-earth video. Thanks for sharing
Thats the best use of a Tossler I've seen yet . Musk is a tosser . I cant wait to see your engine up and running 👍👍👍
Carrying on in the footsteps of John Britten. 👍
(hard to imagine he's been gone 30 years already)
Seriously impressive work.
The secret to hardening sand casted aluminum is cryo tempering. I had a 1953 HD, and one after market cylinder exploded, letting the piston cock sideways, and come down blowing the cases apart. A man who welded for NASA, tried welding the parts together, but on the thin sides of the case he got spider cracks that he chased forever. He told me he tried heating in an over and welding while still extremely hot, and still spider cracks. I read about race car drivers cryo tempering the engines, and parts. So I tried it. After the tempering, a union welder, came in and welded them up like it was modern aluminum. no cracks, worked like a charm. After welding the heat put different stresses in the metal, so I cryo tempered them, a final time after welding, and the engine is still running today, after being blown in to pieces, and put back together again. Try it, it is not expensive, and it the best thing that ever happened to sand casted aluminum
Sounds expensive bro😮
@@djpaulk Don't remember if i replied before, but cost me 45 bucks
@@djpaulk A styrofoam box and some LN from the welding supply store doesn't actually run much at all.
Some of the coolest milling and casting work on UA-cam. Can't wait to see that engine run.
Thanks. That makes at least two of us.
Loved this! What an inspiration, thanks for going to the effort to edit it together. Long form was really good for understanding what you were up to.
Thanks you, I’ll try and do longer videos when I have made some decent progress and have a few things to show and explain.
Nice castings. I've never tried lost foam castings before. I like that you don't need to worry about draft angles.
Regards, Preso
Thanks, It definitely makes design considerations a bit easier as no cores are required.
Awesome job! You have some serious skills looking forward to seeing more
Thanks, hopefully the next video won’t be as far away.
this is so rad, I'm hooked. Keep em coming
Take that goofy swivel base off that mill vise & bolt it straight to the mill table- you'll gain height and lose floppyness and have a more rigid setup
Go easy, he is a novice..
Watching from Finland and liking your approach mate
Thank you
Cool project, subscribed to follow your progress. Your castings come out nice, like the setup you have. My last casting I made an error and miscalculated the amount of aluminum I needed, came up short on the pour. So much time preparing for it, live and learn.
Thank you. That’s unfortunate, I know the feeling. I guess it’s a lesson you won’t soon forget. I usually get the weight from my cad model and also add the weight of the gating and sprue and then a bit extra for fudge factor.
Appreciate all the explaining of what's happening. It's looking good, all that experience from the first one seems to be coming into play
Thanks you, it does seem to get easier each time.
This is such an awesome channel, keep it up!
entertaining and informative looking forward to the next update
Shot bro! Sick video, love seeing how you do things. Keep it up
Excellent work, looking at the finish you got on the mating faces of the case half's i think your heat treating exercise was a success
I think so too, the threads also seem fairly strong in the tapped holes.
Very nice work sir
Looks like you had nice temp control on your melt, so low porosity? Nice one.
Thanks, I haven’t come across anything major, in terms of porosity. So I think this one is a success.
@@OddsandEndsMachining What was the basis for your geometry? A J.A.P?
Really love this type of builds engine merging isnt a new thing and an easy thing but u make it seem so easy todo! hopefully you decide to make big displacement engines sometime in the future 500cc,600-1000cc
love watching all your videos!
Xr650 heads and barrals to go 1.3L now that would be something
Thanks, there are a 3 engines (including the V4) on my hit list before I make something big, but I do have a project in mind.
I cannot think of a better use of Tesla rims, or any other Tesla aluminium part come to think of it 😀. Nice work Jonny, keep up the greak work.
Haha, thanks.
@@OddsandEndsMachiningNo problem Jonny, I'm surprised Brad has'nt got you to cast up something for the Borg yet 😄
Should have plenty of the Cyber truck rear frames to melt down soon enough. First time anyone uses it as a real truck it's going to break and rip off lol.
Wondered where all the spoons from the smoko room went 😂
Love the progress 🙏🏼
Awesome stuff! Love it.
Glad you enjoy it
I've never seen that type of casting. Simply amazing. How does the sand not fall in and collapse as the foam melts? I thought I was fairly smart but I guess not😂 time to watch some UA-cam foam casting theory LOL. Thank you for posting!
UA-cam is how I learnt to sand cast funnily enough. Kelly Coffield was a major source of help, if you search his name you will find his channel.
This is something i have wanted to try
Strong work!!!
The G83 cycle (often called peck drilling) is intended for deep drilling or milling with chip breaking. The retracts in this cycle clear the hole of chips and cut off any long stringers (which are common when drilling in aluminum).
This is how all the holes were drilled. Other than the hand programmed G code which didn’t peck.
One of the oil gallery holes was 3.5mm diameter and 45mm deep it required a full retract after each peck to give it the best chance of going straight, due to there only being 2mm of stock either side of the gallery.
Impressive
1 of 1 casting or 1 of 2 casting "gonna test my first ever gcode" i was like no no no no no 🤣
My idea of living life on the edge
Some of the most impressive non-industrial casting I've seen.
Would a grove cut in the case half-mounting face for O-ring material be an effective oil seal?
Yes, it is done on some high end race motors, it’s good when they come apart fairly often. I won’t be doing it on this motor, my spindle is far too slow for a 2-2.5mm end-mill. It’s also costs in more time and material than cutting out a paper gasket.
@@OddsandEndsMachining If you ever reconsider you might be able to rig up something like a dremmel to get the spindle speed high enough.
@@2000freefuel I’ve thought about using my trim router as an auxiliary spindle, but that’s on the very long to do list.
This just popped up in recommended, I watch far too many machining video's but making a V-twin- cool stuff
(I was a motorcycle mechanic at various dealers in 1970's~90's then taught at MMI Orlando almost 12 years).
Love the irony of making IC engine from Tesla parts.
What top ends are you going to use?
I see you have slots for cam chain, looks like Honda pattern (XR200's?)
Keeping the Kiwi tradition going, great stuff, I'll subscribe
Thanks. They are Chinese copies of an xr70/crf70 cylinder and head.
@@OddsandEndsMachining That's really cool.
In te 80's I wanted to do similar with XL185 top ends as I had a few.
Never got around to being anything morethan a dream though.
I still haven't done any casting either, always seems to be something more important (usually expensive) to fix instead (particularly since I got married) 🙄
First intro film shows milling with rotation instead of against it?
@@michiel1362 having ball screws, I almost exclusively climb mill on this machine as the backlash is minimal. It’s better for your tools in most situations and results in less rubbing.
How do you get rid of the foam before pouring the mold?
It’s in there when i pour the Metal. The heat causes it to evaporate.
Not here for the nooks and crannies castings.. Well maybe
Here for the fush an chups bro!🇭🇲😂...
Big modified tractor pull at my place. Spring Ridge NSW..
Ohhhh were all pullin 👍
The V engine is bonus batter ..
I've been attempting to cast spur gears, quite like to try lost foam, wondering how you make the pattern?
Using either a CNC router or my CNC mill. If you check out some of my first videos you will see how I did it.
You could always use a wire cutter for foam.
@@OddsandEndsMachining thanks 👍, yes I already had a quick look, fascinating and I like how the process uses foam that is basically free
WOW 😍
How gummy do you find your cast aluminum? I find that my aluminum castings trend to build up on the cutting tools resulting in poor surface finish.
I haven’t had any trouble with the tools sticking so long as the tool has coolant on it. It seems to leave a nice consistent chip.
@@OddsandEndsMachining I guess I have to get my mist coolant system going. Have you tried heat treating your castings?
@@ColCurtis this one was heat treated to T5, my first casting (the first engine I made) was not but still machined well in spite of this.
@OddsandEndsMachining great, thanks for the info. I just found your channel, definitely going to watch more.
I wonder what kinda crazy stuff that you and Alan Millyard could come up with…..
I’m sure I could send him some castings and he would be able to figure out the rest.
Did you make the styrofoam mold or can they be purchased somewhere
I make them for each part.
Cool video. What cnc mill do you have?
Thank you. An optimum MH-28V that has been converted to CNC. Good for around 450mm X travel and 210mm in Y.
Casting looks good considering the porous looking sand. How did the heat treat work ? T-? . Nice work
Without any legitimate way of verifying the heat treatment I think it went quite well 😂. I went for a T5 heat treatment as it is 80% as good as T6 but a whole lot easier to achieve.
Verg good - impressive stuff! Is your crucible made from steel tube? JJ
Yeah, I’m probably going to invest in a graphite one for future castings as the steel was the best I could do at the time.
Good to hear a kiwi accent. What part of the country are you in?
The one and only Palmerston North
What's the difference between a mill and a mehw? It looks like mill.
Get a coaxial bore indicator, way easier to see the needle
Thanks, I’ll put that on the list of things to buy
BTW boring to 6.8 is WAY cooler😎
Where are you from ?
New Zealand, Palmerston North
Consider a proper micrometer to measure bores and shafts rather than calipers. Should gain at least 10x accuracy. You’re not accurately measuring microns with a calipers. Otherwise, impressive work!
Thank you, I have a mitutoyo 0-150mm set that measure .01mm but sometimes they are a bit less convenient, I should really get into a habit of using them when the tolerances dictate.
Get a Datum point...
Leave the Datsun that's on point fo l8r bro
After watching your lost casting and subsequent machining, I had an idea that I was wondering if you’ve tried:
Have you ever considered putting Heli-Coil threads into the foam casting along with white oak wooden dowels spun into their center as plugs but sticking out into the sand by around 4” to help secure their relative location as the supporting foam is lost?
You wouldn’t need to worry about getting it lined up with the top since you’ll just be machining that surface flat anyway and the wood dowels will undergone a quick carburizing with little oxygen so they won’t burn away but their exterior in contact will quickly turn to charcoal making removal and cleanup simple and quick.
I know nothing of lost foam casting and barely anything of traditional sand casting aluminum so I can understand if my thought fails at a fundamental level because of something like the high heat ruining temper of coils OR more technical challenges like the aluminum skin fails to bond with the exterior of the coil or the protruding coil may potentially disrupts the molten metals skin causing it to fold over and create defects which in turn could lead to voids or weakened sections at the location of the folding. Anyway just a passing thought, I enjoyed the video and was able to inference a few things based on how you made your fill channels.
Thanks. It is something that is done on some die castings where they have pre positioned steel parts which are cast around. I’ve seen it done for main bearing bores. This is likely because steel can take more of a hammering before the bores elongate.
A reason I don’t think this would be a good idea for threads is when it comes to facing the parts the helicoils are very hard and won’t machine very well. Also getting them perpendicular to the machined surface is easier to do once it is machined.
At last... someone is doing something useful with a Tesla.
This is cool but you're losing the gearbox and clutch. Board track replicas accept classic preformance to have a classic design. Gonna go with no brakes like they used to? No throttle just cut the ignition to reduce speed like they used to.
Bro shut up you’re being completely pedantic. Go find some other corner of the internet to shout your empty complaints.
I think the final application for this engine is a bit different to what you’re thinking it is.
Just remember to not stop lying!¡!
ngl
ngl
ngl ……