Відео

I appreciate the offer, I’ve got a spare RGV cassette in my drawer. The idea of getting rid of the cassette is to make casting the engine easier. I’m not worried about the machining, casting or the design of the part.

I will see how many hours of printing it will take, making them from wood on a rigid router shouldn’t take too long.

Thank you. It hadn’t even crossed my mind but it sounds like a worthy use for this engine when it is eventually running.

Doing away with the cassette isn’t about making the cassette itself. That part is easy to make. It is integrating it into the rear half of the crankcase, having a 4 piece crankcase vs 3 pieces opens up more avenues for failure. Splitting the cases shouldn’t be too bad if I incorporate an O-ring seal vs sealant.

engine & power is not responsible for a tank slapper, suspension and frame geometry are.

I’ll try to get more into the considerations of why I’m doing things as I go instead of at the end.

You can run the 112cc Athena cylinders and cranks making it 450cc . . . I chose 350cc because I want to enjoy riding it and have a realistic gauge on my riding ability. It will probably still make more power than an rz/rg500 as a 350 and as a 450 it will be a bit of a handful. I like the idea of similar power to a stock 600cc bike but with 30-40kg less weight.

I’ll probably just drop the patterns at the foundry as they will sort all the gating and risers for me to get the best possible end product. I could make it myself, but I want to focus on quality with the motor. So I may even re do the front crankcase.

I definitely don’t need to make progress although I am making patterns as we speak for the production version of the v twin. . . It’s actually easier than it looks (I have yet to test them though). So maybe I make some wooden patterns on my friends CNC router.

I am leaning towards option A or option C. . . I will finish the conventional patterns for the production version of the Hustler V-Twin and then I'll know whats involved. . . Option A does free up a lot of time.

Thanks for the feedback. I should just do a video on explaining all of the frames I have made and the things I learnt from each one. you may have seen a sneak peak of the next frame and what the plate was for at the start of the video. The main reason to ditch the cassette is because the chance of a successful casting is a lot higher for lost foam (less over hangs) and I can't outsource getting it cast if the gearbox cavity is so deep, it would require cores and other complexities. I am against the idea of a split rear half and a cassette and a front half, four pieces seems like too many.

@OddsandEndsMachining yeah, it looks like you're going Aluminium now 😁 to be clear, for me it's not about getting done, for sure I wanna see it running some day, but the process there is what is interesting to watch... Sure I know how to mill something, but I have only rough understanding of casting, and how you mill it on this small machine ist still very interesting, there are features that require quite some precision, and how you manage to accomplish them is going to be very interesting I guess... If you see Videos of Mat Armstrong (strongly recommend) for example, it's almost never really about driving the car in the end, it's the journey there that makes up most of the story, and most of the fun of his Videos... I understand if you prefer getting it done quickly and scalable, from a content creator POV going the long route and showing everything including the struggles you had, will make much better videos if you go at it from a business view, rather take option C, it's really cheap for the work that has to be done, and your done in a couple of days :)

Thanks for the detailed reply, quite a bit to think about. I will be using the large mill at my work for some of the work required as it will be impossible to finish with only 210mm of Y axis travel.

The only downside with the billet is if i make a mistake it could be a very expensive one. My educated guess would be as a running engine with a second hand gearbox it would cost around $15-20,000 NZD (If i were to sell them) with all genuine Yamaha parts and new bearings/seals. That may put people off, who knows.

@@OddsandEndsMachiningwhich gearbox are you designing the new non Cassette style cases around still the triumph bits I assume? Once the kinks are worked out and with some other decent components, 15 or so thousand for a working v4 two stroke engine I’ll be all over that 👌

It is the triumph unit. It can be found in any Daytona or the tiger with slightly closer ratios. I’m going to avoid using any Chinese parts once the prototype has been tested.

I'd say it would sound more like angry wasps. That's looking to be the best option.

Gotta save up for these projects somehow haha

I would only sell cast/machined cases so people can assemble their own motor. I don't like the idea of selling my IP (Files). Shipping a crankcase shouldn't be a lot more than a plastic replica of the same thing. I'd say the only thing stopping people ripping the idea off is it requires a lot of knowledge of how it all works and the set ups involved to machine/outsource/grinding/hardening of everything.

The foundry charge around $8/kg (USD) plus labour. The reason I don't want to get into sand casting myself is due to the fact i need to maintain the sand (if it's green sand) and have limited spacer to store it. I can just drop off the patterns and pick up castings at the end of the week. They will be around $450USD all ready to be heat treated . . . which will probably cost another $200-300USD depending on where I go and how long I want to wait.

@@OddsandEndsMachining The sand isn't too bad, A big sieve is all you need, and a bin with a lid to keep it in, no need for fancy mullers or anything elaborate. But at $8/Kg, you can't really beat the convenience of getting someone else to do it!!

That would be a handful with 12" wheels

Thanks for the heads up on craft cloud

Thanks for that. I've used craft cloud for some inlet manifolds and they came out at $40USD which was quite good. I will likely use them for the V4 manifolds. I priced the cases and they came out at 4x the cost of billet 6061 (I'm sure i could optimise the design and pull weight out as it is designed for casting and has minimum thicknesses to prevent freezing of molten aluminium). But I think I will just get JLCCNC to machine them if i go the CNC route.

@@OddsandEndsMachining I totally get your thinking. If you have a cnc machine shop able to machine the components at a reasonable cost, then I too would go that way. I've been kicking around a 500 V2 two stroke for a while, reminiscent of the Honda NSR's and build a frame around it. So I'm on the edge of my seat for your next video. I do love our Kiwi ingenuity even though I now live in the States. Had one question, how did you come up with your dimensions for the gearbox, and what make of gear set are you using? I was thinking to get the dimensions correct, I'd have to use and existing case halves and it done on a CMM... your thoughts. Cheers mate!

And also a tasty beverage.

Thanks, I'm sure I don't even know what the main challenges will be yet. The only worry I have with CNC Billet cases is that I am pretty bad for over looking things, if I can get some favorable discounts from a sponsor that will be the best option. I've got a local place that are cutting the gears and do my carburising/grinding fairly cheap (around $400NZDish per gear with 4 custom module 2 gears) the shafts will be done by me in 4340. The only other thing is the line boring but I have a friend Jim helping me with that, he made a V3 750cc using RM250 cylinders you may have seen racing around Manfield years ago.

I do wonder what something like this would be worth. Or if there would be any demand.

@ when you get down to it there probably aren’t that many interested in the work involved, and with cost of a complete engine even less

I'm guessing for it to be worth my while it would be in the $15-20k range. Most people wouldn't have the knowledge to pull it off in a cost effective manner.

If I lost foam cast I will still be sending all the parts out for heat treatment, so the only way to avoid heat treatment will be to get them made from billet. The foundry poured my first part in an lm25 equivalent so it should heat treatment quite well.

@OddsandEndsMachining often home foundries are refused in heat treatment. for the reason that the composition of the alloy is too random

It is legitimate foundry that I used, that’s all they do is cast aluminium. They are near my house which makes them handy. I even have the print out with the material composition.

@@OddsandEndsMachining It's when you melt recovered aluminum at home that companies don't want to do heat treatment.

I definitely know that time is of the essence and projects can drag on a bit. If I can keep my previous video sponsors on board I will probably get them to do it. That’s an interesting spin on it, I what the market for something like this would be. The only downside to selling files is they are uncontrolled once they leave my PC.

Thank you, I was going to make a wooden match plate with either machined MDF or 3D printed patterns. But 3D printing would save a lot of time. Hopefully it goes right on attempt number one as the foundry will cast it and hand gate it and add risers for me as I have no idea where they would need to go.

I have looked a lot at "oldfoundryguy" and have sandcasted once with 3dprinted core. Draft angle is ofcourse really important to get the core out and all the print lines will show so I used sprayfiller and paint. @@OddsandEndsMachining

I wish, I don’t think buckets have been allowed there for a while. We races at Manfield on the Back Track, they don’t need track protection either which is a bonus.

@OddsandEndsMachining right. Cheers man, I'll keep any eye open. If the wind is blowing in the right direction, sometime I can Manfield from my place, I'm just outta palmy, towards Newbury. Stockcars were loud tonight, could hear them clear as

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The bike is pretty little. They almost drag whilst it’s sitting on the stand haha.

Yes, although there is a better way to fix this now

Thank you, I 100% could if I sat down and had a think about how to do it. But there’s already plenty on the to do list, probably too much.

Thank you, the sound ended up better than I could have imagined.