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Odds and Ends Machining
Приєднався 24 кві 2021
I'm Jonny and this channel is about bringing engineering projects to life and sharing them with you.
Oddsandendsmachining@gmail.com
Oddsandendsmachining@gmail.com
Making a Retro V Twin Engine
Go to cnc.jlcpcb.com/?from=ODDS for all your custom manufacturing needs.
In today's video after a quick re-cap on how I lost foam cast the crankcase, I machine all of the critical dimensions on the master con-rod using my boring head on my CNC milling machine. I also press in bronze bushes and ream them to final size. I then dummy assemble the engine with 3D printed intake manifolds. Completion is not too far away. . .
Make sure to like and subscribe if you enjoy the video, and leave a comment for the algorithm
www.youtube.com/@UCvTa3CjUUYqfVjbRjk8X3_A
In today's video after a quick re-cap on how I lost foam cast the crankcase, I machine all of the critical dimensions on the master con-rod using my boring head on my CNC milling machine. I also press in bronze bushes and ream them to final size. I then dummy assemble the engine with 3D printed intake manifolds. Completion is not too far away. . .
Make sure to like and subscribe if you enjoy the video, and leave a comment for the algorithm
www.youtube.com/@UCvTa3CjUUYqfVjbRjk8X3_A
Переглядів: 13 264
Відео
Machining a Conrod for the Retro V-Twin
Переглядів 6 тис.Місяць тому
In today's Video I show you how I machined a connecting rod for my lost foam cast V Twin engine on my converted CNC Mill. The conrod is made from 1045 hot rolled steel and will run bronze bushings in the small ends. I designed and programmed the part in Fusion 360 before machining it from 25x25mm square stock. The rod weighs 100 grams making it lighter than a stock Lifan pit bike conrod by 14 g...
Casting and Machining a Retro V-Twin
Переглядів 75 тис.2 місяці тому
In this weeks video we check out my V4 350cc 2 stroke patterns before looking at the progress on the retro V-Twin engine. I cover the lost foam casting and then the machining required to take the castings to an almost finished state. All of the CNC milling is done on my converted Optimum MH-28V mill running on Mach 3, all the CAD and CAM is done using Fusion 360. Make sure to like the video and...
Lost Foam Casting a Retro V-Twin
Переглядів 9 тис.4 місяці тому
In this video I test out a CNC Router and make a pattern for a new V-Twin engine. This is so I can make sure the CNC router is tuned well enough not to make a mess of my XPS foam and make accurate patterns for the V4 rear crankcase half. I then attempt to cast the pattern, the first attempt was a failure and the second attempt went perfectly. All the CAD/CAM was done in fusion360
Lost Foam Casting - V4 350cc Engine
Переглядів 39 тис.6 місяців тому
In this update I'll show off my lost foam cast V4 2 stroke engines front crank case half. I'll explain some of the process and look at the casting in depth and explain what went wrong. The foam was machined on my CNC mill using fusion 360 and Mach 3 The foam is extruded polystyrene or XPS The material is similar to LM25 and was virgin casting stock the refractory is Gib 4 The wax is fiberglass ...
Can I Fix This Broken Band-saw?
Переглядів 1,1 тис.6 місяців тому
Here's a random video of me repairing a BS-7DS band-saw I bought cheap a few months ago to flick for a tidy little profit. These little money makers help fund the V4 project. . . and my Land Rover money pit. It involved removing busted bearings in a creative manner and giving it an overall tidy up. Facebook market place always seems to have deals like this going cheap. Make sure to like the vid...
Lost Foam Casting - V4 2 Stroke
Переглядів 6 тис.7 місяців тому
In this video I show off my new 'Test' casting which was lost foam cast. I also give a brief run down of the engine design and explain what is next for my V4 2 stroke GP motor build. The next step is to get some more casting supplies together and head to the foundry to have the gearbox cassette plate and the front crankcase half cast. After that I will machine the foam pattern for the rear cran...
Ready to Cast - The V4 2 Stoke Build
Переглядів 9 тис.9 місяців тому
Ready to Cast - The V4 2 Stoke Build
Racing my Home Made V-Twin Engine (Onboard)
Переглядів 3 тис.10 місяців тому
Racing my Home Made V-Twin Engine (Onboard)
Replacing Head Gasket with O-Ring
Переглядів 2,3 тис.10 місяців тому
Replacing Head Gasket with O-Ring
Making a Lost Foam Pattern - V4 2 Stroke Build
Переглядів 2,1 тис.10 місяців тому
Making a Lost Foam Pattern - V4 2 Stroke Build
A 100% Reliable Motor Made in My Shed
Переглядів 2,8 тис.Рік тому
A 100% Reliable Motor Made in My Shed
How to Make a Motorcycle the Easy Way
Переглядів 3,4 тис.Рік тому
How to Make a Motorcycle the Easy Way
Weekly Update - V Twin Exhaust, V4 2 Stroke Build, RGV 372
Переглядів 804Рік тому
Weekly Update - V Twin Exhaust, V4 2 Stroke Build, RGV 372
Machining my Handcrafted V twin engine
Переглядів 2,2 тис.Рік тому
Machining my Handcrafted V twin engine
Fabricating a Mini-GP Motorcycle Chassis
Переглядів 3,1 тис.Рік тому
Fabricating a Mini-GP Motorcycle Chassis
Ali express YZ85 Cylinder too Good to be True?
Переглядів 2,3 тис.Рік тому
Ali express YZ85 Cylinder too Good to be True?
I'm Building a V4 2 Stroke GP Motor [Update]
Переглядів 1,6 тис.Рік тому
I'm Building a V4 2 Stroke GP Motor [Update]
Making a Brake Adapter for the Mini Race Bike
Переглядів 804Рік тому
Making a Brake Adapter for the Mini Race Bike
I Made My Own V-Twin Engine - First Start
Переглядів 6 тис.Рік тому
I Made My Own V-Twin Engine - First Start
DIY 144cc V-Twin, A Better Tensioner
Переглядів 1,6 тис.2 роки тому
DIY 144cc V-Twin, A Better Tensioner
Very late to this series but love the relatable riding clips. Tinkering with the end goal of stacking it on a trail😅
That was heart breaking to hear about the length mistake. However, the extra length should benefit the torque curve somewhat with a slight sacrifice on the horsepower. Balancing the engine may be a little trickier. You never know, this may end up being a happy mistake. I think what you are doing is amazing, best to you!
Thank you, the crank actually needed quite a lot of mass added to it to achieve a 50% balance factor. Hopefully it isn’t too harsh.
JUST ADD A SPACER/SHIM TO THE BOTTOM OF THE JUGS!!!!!
spoke too soon, lol
Hey man if you are going this hard why not go for a pair of Daytona 212's
This is for the aesthetic and less about performance.
Nice frame. Do you need some rework of the steering bearing seats after welding? I had a discussion with my friend about his rg500 frame and he decided not to weld and turn it on the lathe completely.
Thank you, the steering head worked perfectly fine. On my latest frames the steering head is one piece as I’ve found a suitable thickness of 40NB pipe.
Being an English speaker I couldn't understand a word you said. ( but I bet you can guess where I'm from...)🤭
Somewhere in the northern hemisphere? Good thing the automatic subtitles work fairly well most of the time.
Put that motor on a bicycle frame similar to an old boardtracker from the early days of motorcycles!
Something like this is in the works
God it'd be mean to chuck one of these in a mini chop
That’s not a bad idea
Great job, friend! 👍I'm also building a v-twin, only the block is still iron, but I plan to cast it in the future.Thank you for sharing your experience.🤝
Thank you. Good luck
Great work! Good recovery from the conrod length disappointment too.
I built a stroker YZ125 engine when I was 16 with my dad and we added 13 mm longer rod length plus an extra 6 mm of stroke... For the initial build I added a 13 mm thicker base plate on the cylinder and then on the final build I went ahead and added up 13 mm on the base of the cylinder with the TIG welder, I use an air hammer to peen the passes down in between each set of beads... In the end i use the Dremel tool to match the contour around the cylinder... It worked fine... WE used longer rod to combat the crank angle shoving the piston into the exhaust port on the cylinder... It was a great exercise it looks like you're doing great with your project too. We ended up 174.5cc and going from 33HP to 38HP and 30% more TQ. Good video. Bravo. ❤
Thank you. That sounds like a pretty cool experience and it’s even better that it worked so well.
I like to hear about engine mods other people have done. Been modifying various engines since the 1970's, first was a Honda CB160 block with 175 pistons while I was training.
Conn-rods look great. Excellent, practical recovery.
Hello Aussie. Good stuff.
What material is the master tod made from?
S45C similar to 1045
Very nice work sir. This engine is going to look great. Very impressive. I’m on my second steam engine. Nothing as complicated as this. Maybe one day I will attempt a engine like this.
Thank you, and maybe one day I’ll try my hand at a steam engine.
Kinda sad you couldn't get mirrored heads but overall super cool seeing this come together!
Thanks, the mirrored heads was a possibility but required a second cam chain and another tensioner and mirrored rocker arms. Maybe I develop the idea further down, but I think the dual carbs look pretty cool.
Looks fantastic! Great job using the base-gasket spacers! Years ago Ducati released a 350cc motorcycle that was severely "de-tuned" from the factory, and they were pretty lethargic as stock, but it had 2 base gaskets and a thick alloy spacer under the Jug, if you removed the spacer and ran just one gasket the bike picked up performance a ton! (not 14mm thick, just like 1 or 2mm)
That’s interesting, I wonder why they detuned it.
Low octane fuel in the intended market??
this is all really cool BUT your engine has a pretty big design problem. So i see that the bottom end is more or less based on one of those honda GX 200 style engines. But the top end is from old honda 50 - 110cc utility bikes. Or now more or less cheap chinesse pitbikes. Issue is that the oiling system in the GX 200 engines is just not good. I hate that there is no oil pump and the engines wear down really fast. Compare that to the needle bearing that is supplies with oil by the oil pump in the 110cc engines i think its obvious which will last longer. Not to mention you will need a way of getting the oil to the camshaft on the head. I might be wrong and you have a oil pump but I didnt see one in this video
There is an oil pump, you might be able to see it spinning in my last short. If the crank becomes problematic, there are options to change to a 3 piece set up and run needle rollers.
@ oh nice. Yeah i was mostly afraid of you not having a pump. So yeah with a bearing that should be heaps reliable. Do you have oil supply to the bushing where the 2nd rod attaches to the primary?
@ it is oiled the same as a little end bearing. Just by the mist in the crankcase.
I use calipers 95% of the time, especially with snap gages. A micrometer can move a snap gage if you're not careful. Use what works for you is my advice. Looking good, thanks for the video!
Thanks, I have had that happen before so I make sure the snap gauges are done up fairly snug.
Nice work. What is the material you use for casting the cases?
Thank you. These were cast from a Tesla model 3 wheel.
Ok. Have you got more experienxe using aluminium wheels for casting? Are they all the same or how to identify good ones?
@@HSuomi they are more or less the best thing you can get besides going to your local foundry and buying ingots. They seem to react well to heat treatment and cast fairly well. Just get a factory alloy wheel from any Japanese car.
Thanks. Ill try that. Ive been using all kind of different scrap with different results.
Why 200cc? Could you use lifan 140cc blocks, heads, etc?
Just because I had 47mm cylinders, you could indeed swap to some 56mm cylinders and make it 265cc.
Skill, care and knowledge by the bucket load. Onya mate.
Thank you
Why the non-metric big end bolts and "freedom unit" installation torques? Seems a bit odd when all your other dimensioning and machining is metric...
Good observation. The bearings came with the bolts so I just made the rods to match. It seems rod bolts in this size are quite common in the USA for go kart motors.
Nice work. I was taught when using bore snap gauges you need to sweep the snap guage in the micrometer looking for the high spot and to get the most accurate reading you want to feel the same drag when pulling thru the mic jaws as the drag when removing snap guage in bore your measuring. Just my 2 cents
Super sharp looking rods, beautiful surface finish on the boring. Thanks for the shout out!
Would it not be better to put two bushes in the fork part of the link rod and lock the pin into the large rod nice work
I don’t think there is enough meat on the link rod to do this although it was an option. It would have made securing the pin easier.
What type main brgs u using? I believe some Ducati v2 model use preload on the main brgs set with shims
Interesting oil clearance on the big end. My factory manual for my fz750 about .037-.044 mm as about 166cc cyl
Allen Millyard ( SIR) 😃used that link rod system in his kawa v12 I can’t get my head around that small lower bush not taking much load , as he suggests surely it would be taking the equivalent of a full sized big end only over a much smaller area your rake on this haha looks like you’ve been to Ali express for shell brgs I bought some to measure up for my project but I’m going Honda oe there can be a lot of tech that goes into brg shells I’m going KING busa brgs on the mains fantastic tech. Coated and a great range of thicknesse to top it so much more cost effective than OEM any progress with the mighty V4 I love that project Can I ask thd firing order for that engine? Keep up the gd work 👍🍻
Thanks, You’ve made some fairly accurate observations haha. The firing order for this or the V4?
@@OddsandEndsMachining cheers v4 firing order !
At this stage it will be a screamer fining 90* apart.
Nice work on the JLC sponsor bro! I've used them a few times now, love being able to cost parts as I design
Thanks, I’ve outsourced a few parts now from different places and they definitely had the quickest turn around.
Alright. An update. Cool!
Ouch, that is quite an impressive cock-up :)
Thanks, I’m sure it happens to the best of us.
@@OddsandEndsMachining Adds character :)
regardless of the connecting rod set back, your work is awsome. and putting the effort to share it with us is very appreciated👍👍👍
Thank you
Good to see a relevant and useful sponsor for the channel. Going to get a quote for some CNC rotary goodies 👍🏻
INDEED !
You can use crank and heads from honda astrea grand from 90s to take 200cc easily and primary gears from z50 1971 with 18-67 gears for much higher speed. And maybe 4 speed gearbox from honda c59 glx or lifan
Brilliant result, out of interest, what did you calculate to allow for your material shrinkage on cooling. That perfectly flat lower surface should make your life easy come the time to machine your flat surfaces
Thanks, 1.3% seems to be the industry standard and works very well.
Stop buying Chinese end mills. Problem solved.
I will probably buy a couple of decent ones I can use for steel. Otherwise the cheap ones last a very long time in aluminium.
Hello, what will be the consequences if the gear is "welded" to basket? Thank you
You can’t weld aluminium to steel. So it is not possible.
@@OddsandEndsMachining i know, that's why i used double quotes. By welded, i mean remove springs and make the steel gear fixed on basket and not floating
@@OddsandEndsMachininglike a single mass flywheel
@@julienchardon9101 I’m guessing something would crack as the springs lower the peak forces and spread them over time.
@@OddsandEndsMachining ok. Thank you
Thats the best use of a Tossler I've seen yet . Musk is a tosser . I cant wait to see your engine up and running 👍👍👍
Good to see engineering is still alive in this country with virtually all heavy industry , foundries and training shut down . 🇳🇿
Those crankcase castings are beautiful!
Thank you
How to get design for engene?
I reverse engineered a standard lifan engine. I added width for the extra rod, that’s all there is to it.
How many times did you repeat and refine your chassis structure until it was perfect?
I still haven’t . . . So far I’ve made 3 and now I’m making the 4th and final. The one in this video was the best handling but the wheelbase is too short to fit larger engines. The final one I am working on at the moment is essentially a 40mm longer version of this bike with the engine shifted rear 20mm. I’ll make the plans available once it is finished.
I want to see the exhaust/ More importantly I want you to make the header with a cone like a two stroke. I always thought it would help with scavenging...on the rotary...
Bruh, what have you done to English vowels? Are you duslixek?😉
Looking good
Which foam type ?
Extruded Polystyrene (XPS)
Thank a lot.
Easily got my thumbs up! Was no stupid music, got to hear a lot of the actual sounds of the processes, provided a lot details, and just an overall down-to-earth video. Thanks for sharing
It's really irritating when at the start of a video I'm asked to like and subscribe. I literally know nothing other than the subject of the video it might be complete rubbish! I don't know show me what move got and I'll pay you your dues at the end not the beginning. I have left a like but only because you were on 499 likes so it made me 500 it's just off putting. The engine r looks amazing btw
First intro film shows milling with rotation instead of against it?
@@michiel1362 having ball screws, I almost exclusively climb mill on this machine as the backlash is minimal. It’s better for your tools in most situations and results in less rubbing.