Rear main seal, clutch, and oil pan seal replacement on this truck: ua-cam.com/video/19ZxTXy_hME/v-deo.html Steering box replacement, fixing loosing steering: ua-cam.com/video/Vdc2-ygaG9A/v-deo.html
Question. My serpentine belt has slipped off 3 times this month. I can barely drive my truck a few miles before my belt ends up tearing along the edge and eventually slipping off. I'm wondering if my tensioner pulley needs replacing or just the pulley.
Thanks! I did the exact same thing. I have a 2000 Ranger with a severe sweak, the belt appeared ok so I replaced the idle pulley today and it still sweaks.ntje tensioner pulley is my next project. I hope mine goes as easy as yours and works like yours did. Thanks.
Good video. However I believe that was the original issue. Someone threw the 96 pulley tensioner on there at some point for whatever reason. Junk yard pull, parts store didn’t have a 97 etc. It should have the 97 tensioner pulley in there since the hole on the 96 is for a larger bolt. Even though that washer is in there which help, there is no way you can get the 96 100% straight as the backend of the pulley can shift slightly due to the ID of the hole on the pulley being larger than the OD of the bolt, once shifting even a thousands of an inch, it will be causing unnecessary pressure on the bearing and assembly. You’ll be good for a while as it’s a new pulley, maybe years, but it will inevitably still fail some day or squeak again or be more prone to slide off when wet, as the 96 assembly begins to shift. Cheers!
If your chirp is coming from your idler pulley, replace it but do not use the washer that backed the OEM pulley. It was used during motor assembly at the factory to hold the bolt on the pulley. Replacement idler pulleys are made NOT to use the washer. If you do, the belt will run off center onto the lip on the back of the pulley and start to chirp after 500 miles.
BELT CONDITIONER is not a fix- it is maintenance before you have an issue. So by spraying belt dressing on a belt every 3,000 miles to soften the rubber and keeps it from drying out and slipping. ... which (it turn) can also prevent and stop squeaks caused by a slipping (dry) belt before they happen
The shape of the holes in your idler tensioner are called "dished" (the tapered one) & the other is a recessed hole. Your mounting bolts 8mm & 10mm metric bolts. Maybe you can learn some correct terminology? , you shade tree goofball?? On a good note. Thx for the many camera angles
Thanks. Good video. Needed some reference for my 2001 explorer. Idler pulley bounces up and down but no squeaking or really anything else wrong. I just don't think it should be bouncing up and down the way it does. Like the spray bottle tip. Good work thanks
Joseph, did you get it off? I just stripped the 8mm bolt and I'm in the same position. Used a chisel and destroyed the old one to gain access to the bolt but now the outter tensioner housing is held in place by the stripped bolt. The housing has that numb on the back side keeping it from turning. I'm thinking blow torch is the only option left.
I used this one from Oreillys. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/drivealign-3742/cooling---heating-16773/tensioner-assembly-automatic-12831/acb1b5ecab2a/gates-drivealign-belt-drive-tensioner/38114/4348007/1996/ford/ranger?q=+belt+tensioner&pos=0
Rear main seal, clutch, and oil pan seal replacement on this truck: ua-cam.com/video/19ZxTXy_hME/v-deo.html
Steering box replacement, fixing loosing steering: ua-cam.com/video/Vdc2-ygaG9A/v-deo.html
Years later your video is giving insight! Thank you! Off to work on the truck.
This the best video I’ve ever seen thank you I was going insane hearing this squeak on my ranger
Question. My serpentine belt has slipped off 3 times this month. I can barely drive my truck a few miles before my belt ends up tearing along the edge and eventually slipping off. I'm wondering if my tensioner pulley needs replacing or just the pulley.
Thanks! I did the exact same thing. I have a 2000 Ranger with a severe sweak, the belt appeared ok so I replaced the idle pulley today and it still sweaks.ntje tensioner pulley is my next project. I hope mine goes as
easy as yours and works like yours did. Thanks.
What happened?
Good video. However I believe that was the original issue. Someone threw the 96 pulley tensioner on there at some point for whatever reason. Junk yard pull, parts store didn’t have a 97 etc. It should have the 97 tensioner pulley in there since the hole on the 96 is for a larger bolt. Even though that washer is in there which help, there is no way you can get the 96 100% straight as the backend of the pulley can shift slightly due to the ID of the hole on the pulley being larger than the OD of the bolt, once shifting even a thousands of an inch, it will be causing unnecessary pressure on the bearing and assembly. You’ll be good for a while as it’s a new pulley, maybe years, but it will inevitably still fail some day or squeak again or be more prone to slide off when wet, as the 96 assembly begins to shift. Cheers!
Actually a very good video you did a great job.
Thank you!
If your chirp is coming from your idler pulley, replace it but do not use the washer that backed the OEM pulley. It was used during motor assembly at the factory to hold the bolt on the pulley. Replacement idler pulleys are made NOT to use the washer. If you do, the belt will run off center onto the lip on the back of the pulley and start to chirp after 500 miles.
Lookb
Good Job!! informative and helpful. Thank you.
BELT CONDITIONER is not a fix- it is maintenance before you have an issue. So by spraying belt dressing on a belt every 3,000 miles to soften the rubber and keeps it from drying out and slipping. ... which (it turn) can also prevent and stop squeaks caused by a slipping (dry) belt before they happen
It wasn't the belt squicking. It was the bearing in the pully
did you remove the alternator to do this"?
These are good little trucks that you can work on yourself
The shape of the holes in your idler tensioner are called "dished" (the tapered one) & the other is a recessed hole. Your mounting bolts 8mm & 10mm metric bolts. Maybe you can learn some correct terminology? , you shade tree goofball?? On a good note.
Thx for the many camera angles
Thanks. Good video. Needed some reference for my 2001 explorer. Idler pulley bounces up and down but no squeaking or really anything else wrong. I just don't think it should be bouncing up and down the way it does. Like the spray bottle tip. Good work thanks
Glad it helped!
My tension pulley broke I cannot get what's left off how do you get it off if it broke off
Joseph, did you get it off? I just stripped the 8mm bolt and I'm in the same position. Used a chisel and destroyed the old one to gain access to the bolt but now the outter tensioner housing is held in place by the stripped bolt. The housing has that numb on the back side keeping it from turning. I'm thinking blow torch is the only option left.
What kind of bait do you guys recommend for California Halibut?
Well, usually we do good on anchovies, but in the new video I'm working on they were slamming big herring.
one the tapered head screw and the other is a socket head cap screw with a counter bore
did you ever fix the dif leak?
Thanks for the help!
Which brand did you use? Do you have a link?
I used this one from Oreillys. www.oreillyauto.com/detail/b/drivealign-3742/cooling---heating-16773/tensioner-assembly-automatic-12831/acb1b5ecab2a/gates-drivealign-belt-drive-tensioner/38114/4348007/1996/ford/ranger?q=+belt+tensioner&pos=0
Good job Bro.
Hey thanks Arnold!
Thanks a bunch we'll done
Yeah belt conditioner isn’t a fix. It’s a conditioner, to keep your belt in better condition
put irish spring soap on it and drive it into a tree....lol...seriously the soap works for squeekng
Nice tip!
20 minutes video could been 10 min
It was 14 minuets long.
Just get to the point
There is this little slide bar that can get you to the point you want to watch without waiting through the whole thing
Thank you.