I've never encountered a broken bolt stud that could be unscrewed that easily. Usually the studs break because they are stuck so tight that the force required to loosen them is greater than the strength of the bolt.
I think this bolt clearly snapped under use, and not while trying to disassemble it, if it was corroded stuck, this method wouldnt work. Unless he heated it up and broke the bond, and got enough corrosion solvent in there over time then this could work, but then it would be easier to just weld the bolt, as that adds both heat, and a way to turn the bolt again..
and one more thing, he used tap and blow pressured air on scrapped aluminum, not a good way of doing it in that situation, those scaps might have entered the engine even with the cloth there
Показан очень сложный случай - обломок свободно люфтит. Вот, если, обломок чуть прихватило коррозией, или на герметике - тогда, вообще, раз плюнуть!)))
Китайские болты ломает при стягивании . их просто отрывает. Эта процедура работает. Конечно лучше просверлить левым сверлом небольшое отверстие и забить в него шестигранник
In my forty plus years as a service engineer I would say I have removed maybe 50% of bolts like that but normally they are to tight to knock around, if you have a bolt that is snapped a good way down the hole a good trick is if you have a Lathe get a socket cap screw the same size and thread as the snapped one put it in the Lathe and drill a hole through the centre then put it in the hole were the snapped bolt is then using the same drill bit drill through the snapped bolt it allows you to get the dead centre you can then put penetrating oil down the hole and use an easy out. I always keep a selection of different size bolts ready to use works a treat.
I generally go with the concept that if it is liquid it cannot be stuck. 🙂 Seriously, anybody who is working with steel bolts in aluminum castings should be applying an anti seize when assembling the parts. It will also help to prevent stripout when tightening the bolts.
Это просто фантастика. Жалко что такие заломыши встречаются в одном случае из ста из за того что это был говноболт. Обычно это прикипевшие, приржавевшие или обломанные из за того что не по резьбе закручивались и вот там всë это не работает. А вот удаление такого заломыша как в видео я бы и снимать постеснялся.
@@user-gh7rg8wp6e ну верить или нет это твоë личное дело. Так и живи считая что в России все в говне живут, тогда глядишь своë говно меньше вонять будет. Удачи тебе, дружище.
He covered the chain so it couldn't LINK up with other parts and laugh at him if he messes up, that might start a CHAIN reaction😆. Yeah I don't know why you would only cover something then blow metal fragments all over.😵
Application of HELICOIL and punch-walking are two old-school crafts that were taught back in the early part of the industrial revolution. Schools used to teach these principles but technology has all but buried these common since crafts. My dad raised me in a machine shop, so He taught me these principles. I learned about HELICOIL application at my railroad career, and it's SO GOOD to watch it demonstrated on a free-to-watch video to the world! THANK YOU for your video !!!
I normally use a center punch to: A. Shock the broken bolt, THEN: B. use a left hand drill bit and SLOWLY drill at the center punch mark INTO the broken bolt. MOST of the time, the bit will bind into the broken part and back it out for you. If not, then you can use an extractor in the hole made by left hand drill!. TIP: A bit of grease will catch the shavings and keep them out of the engine.
Bolts usually break because they're seized in. This bolt came out much too easily. The thread was even loose. This isn't going to be the case, most of the time.
@@johnsolenski140 The bolt in the video didn't even need a drill. All it required was a punch to extract it. Hardly much of a challenge. The first half of the video about fitting a helicoil, wasn't even mentioned in the video title.
Господи я на одном дыхании смотрел эту очень сложную операцию по извлечению сломанного болтика. Хотя мне показалось когда он дул воздухом тот болтик сам уже начал выкручиваться. Одним словом мастер своего дела
This solution is effective only in one case: when the bolt breaks off while being tightened, and when it does not rest against the bottom, after which, usually, the thread “unwinds” and changes pitch if the tightening was carried out without observing the torque. therefore, you first need to make sure that the thread has not “unraveled” on the broken edge. otherwise, when turned out, not only the pitch, but also the alignment will be destroyed on the upper remainder of the thread.
To install a helicoil you have to first oversize the hole , thread and then put in helicoil. for the second bolt only one in a thousand will come out this way. A left hand drill bit will remove some and in the other case a small drill and an easyout will remove the bolt. If not drill out the hole with a slightly larger bit and either tap to larger size or tap and install helicoil.
Many years ago I had a stud break just below the surface of an alloy engine block. The guy who saved my bacon took a short length of mild steel flat bar, drilled a hole near one end, slightly smaller than the stud diameter. He then TIG welded the bar to the broken stud through the hole. He then just unscrewed it, the heat of the weld also helped free up the corrosion which caused the breakage in the first place. My broke stud was held completely tight... the method shown here would never have worked.
I'm assuming the bolt broke when tightening because no corrosion is present. Nice presentation on Heli-coil prep and installation. This person is well-experienced on proper tapping procedures of aluminum, backing to break chips and clearing chips before they score the new threads. Nice video!
Great trick that almost never works. Only when the screw is completely free of contamination and corrosion and is not deformed at all. A little galvanic corrosion or rust or oil sludge and it doesn't work. If the bolt is cross threaded it doesn't work. If it is bent it doesn't work. If it breaks in tension, the top few threads are usually deformed and it doesn't work. If the screw is stainless it doesn't work. If a steel screw is threaded into aluminum, it doesn't work. I could go on. If you have actually tried this trick, then you have probably resorted to drilling and using an ez-out or welding a stud, or drilling and re-threading to a larger size, or drilling and heli-coiling, which is what you see him doing on the first of the two holes. Probably because the simple trick didn't work and he resorted to using a drill and drill guide to remove the bulk of the bolt, then a dental pick to try to pick out the remaining pieces, then ran a tap into the hole, found out that the thread was shot anyway, then bored it over, tapped it, and put a heli-coil it. Note that you can see the stub of the broken screw in the first hole before he starts tapping, then there is a cut at 1:47, and turns the tap back out and the screw piece is gone. These UA-cam tricks and "Next level process" videos always make anyone who has actually worked in a machine shop or repair shop roll their eyes back in their head. When you see "life hack." "next level," or "simple trick" in a youtube video, it should set off your bullsh!t detector.
I have used the hammer & punch or chisel method many times. I was born before easy-outs were invented & I couldn't afford a welder. What I have is patience and tenacity.
@@savage22bolt32 Yeah, I’d agree. This is all you need a lot of the time, and is the most basic method so you need to learn it first! On teaching it to apprentices I’ve often heard “ah, would never have thought of that!”
RIGHT ! Jeremy Hicks is 100% right. When the trouble is a broken screw...OK, sometimes it works, provided you got enough room for the maneuver. If the hole is too deep it won't be possible. In that case you must use a carbide drill and make a hole right in the broken screw. But when you got a broken tap...which usually is stuck, matters become more complicated. You get the job done if you have a tap extractor. Not a cheap chinese stuff as it will brake easily. The Walton stuff may be the right option.
A lot of you don't seem to understand this was just to show you the technique, not what he probably would have done normally. It was just a demonstration, created for whomever might benefit. Now you know....
Thanks for the tip. I'm no longer a mechanic and I used to do the same for hummv cylinder heads. But it doesn't work most of the time. I would use left handed drill bits too.
Парень с длинными ногтями - ты лучший! Такой херни я давно не видел. Ключём ты болт обломал, а кёрнышком так спокойненько, не напрягаясь - тук, тук - и открутил! Молодец!
Hello, Thank you for the video. It was very informative concerning one method of removing a broken bolt and in this case in an aluminum casting. Using a punch to screw a set of threads on out the way they were going. I used to be a machinist in a Ford road truck dealership and removing broken bolts was part of my purpose and I did remove hundreds of them. I just want to bring up a couple of points. Point 1: It is seldom you get a broken bolt that will come out like you have just shown in this video. Most of the time, the reason the bolts are broken is because the threads are stuck in the threads the bolt is put into. Removing any broken bolt, I used to always try to use the method you have demonstrated first as it is the easiest. When I have tried what you have shown and the threads are stuck where they will not screw out, I try taping strait down on the broken bolt to see if that will break the threads free. If not, I will put some heat on the broken bolt and going forward, there are more invasive ways to do that will come next. Point 2: In the video, you attempted to surround the place where you were working with a cloth to keep from getting savings down in the head which will ultimately get into the crank case. You did good putting the rag around where you were working. But, the next thing you did was take an air line to clear the trips away where you could see. Well when you used the forced air, you just blew all those shavings and chips right up under the rag. Not Good.
a 50 cc engine not the same as a 350 F150 eh get a drill and left turn cutting edge be done . as for tapping I use duct tape and a good rag . keep the chips out . seen the same thing there goes the crank bearings lol
Exactly what you said, my experience is the same as you described, and also to keep shawings under control I use grese besides rag precut shape to fit snugly around the place which needs attention. This is pretty much untipical. Also lefthand drill bit is of great help.
I've used the same trick myself. I used a masonry nail as a punch with it being very thin, sharp and very hard. Take your time and care don't mash the hole or the end of the broken off bolt up.
The first one might happen once or twice in a life time.the second one I've done 3or4 times in my life,works when your lucky enough that the stud is loose in the thread.
You could use a drill bit that runs counterclockwise to drill a center hole in the broken bolt. If the bolt is loose enought the drill would back out the bolt.
TIP Sometimes there is a small screw like a No 8 or No 10 stuck in a hole. Its head has broken off. For that I used a No 6 self tapping screw and drive it into the broken screw. A moment later the hole is free and new threads have been tapped.
Simplest way is not to break the bolt in the first place. If it feels tight, apply a little heat to the bolt head only. Cool with air line and repeat as many times as necessary. It usually works after the first couple of applications.
Вот это по нашему. Закрыть (местами) тряпочкой и ...Раздуть( а не пропылесосить) всю стружку по всей "башке" (гбц). Лайк за солидарность в технологиях "срача". (Шутка , хотя...)
@@odinochka42 Нам бы славянам немецкой чистоты и точности .... Смотря этот ролик, сам себя поймал на мысли что и я, такой же" чисто плотный" моторист.Ведь сам уже в дв.ЕР -6 (BMW) ронял сухари клапанов в канал цепи привода ГРМ . Потом сутки искал, пока не нашел .
@@odinochka42 На эту тему есть Байка. При встрече в Тегеране Сталин задал вопрос Черчиллю : "Что Вы думаете о Русских воинах? " Ответ Черчилля был : Вы ,русские - единственная НАЦИЯ ,которая упорно создаёт себе проблемы и... с не меньшим упорством их решает."
I encountered this very same thing on my 1979 morini 350 when a hardened trunion (rocker shaft) stud snapped flush with the head. My dad who was a marine engineer taught me this exact same method using a small sharpened punch and it worked!!
Мне больше всего понравилось выкручивание болта пальцем! Ну и, конечно, надо было в двигло ещё пару щепоток стружки и какого-нибудь мусора насыпать. Для надёжности!
да ты просто чертов гений!!!как я жил до этого ,засверливая обломок и пользуясь левым метчиком,чтобы его выкрутить?все -зря...но теперь то я знаю,как надо и легко выверну все обломки,не напрягаясь со сверлением..почему я не знал этого раньше?
Good idea, but left handed bits aren't very common. They're kind of hard to find, and I imagine they cost more than their regular right hand counterparts. Too, I'm not sure I could get used to sharpening a lefty. It would take some getting used to, for sure.
I don't recall ever breaking a lefty bit. I suggest a quality bit (cobalt, carbide, titanium coated at the least. Gentle pressure, low rpm, DRY, Very slight off center angle of attack. You want the bit to Bite and reverse the fastener. Screw extractior comes next if need be Good Luck!
Thank you I just broke one of the bolts off the magnita on my pushmower working on the flywheel. My homeboy let me take the bolts off and the first one I took off I broke it LOL
В самых тяжёлых случаях, не прибегая к электроэррозионному методу, именно из алюминиевого литья, сталь можно вытравить раствором 15 - 20 % АЗОТНОЙ КИСЛОТЫ. Не концентрированной, иначе будет происходить пассивация. Температура имеет значение. при нагреве реакция происходит быстрее. Я делал так: По возможности, глухое отверстие располагаем вертикально. Обезжириваем, делаем вокруг буртик из пластилина. Медицинским шприцем с иглой заливаем раствор. Протекающую реакцию заметно по выделению пузырьков газа, раствор мутнеет. Отбираем раствор тем же шприцем, заливаем новый. Я вытравл метчик часов за 12. Алюминий практически не реагирует с азотной кислотой, резьба ни сколько не пострадала. Обязательно держите на готове в ведре раствор пищевой соды, мало ли, вдруг кислота куда нибудь попадёт ! И доступ свежего воздуха, пары вредны ! Всем полных баков, стригите ногти.
I have had numerous old cars with rusty water pump bolts that like to break off and those reverse cutting drill bit will usually get them out especially if they arent stuck to bad and then I use stainless bolts when I assemble and use anti siege compound and they always do good
One of the best ways to remove a broken stud is with a left hand drill bit. More often than not the drill bit grabs the stud and backs it right out. I have to do this almost every day taking stainless screws/bolts out of either aluminum or stainless holes and sometimes cast iron.
Exactly. Plus this video seems unreal. Left over broken bolts are rarely this loose in the thread. I saw an awesome method to center the bore exactly in such case: use a door hinge centering drill 'bit' to start the whole. Then you can use the left hand drill and easy out if necessary.
I've been working as a mechanic fifty years and breaking a bolt by over tightening often leaves the broken piece loose enough to work out this way. The hardest to remove are almost exclusively broken because of corrosion locking the threads to the aluminum. I would agree, using every possible advantage is the best way to least impact the strength of the aluminum threads.
I see this video was just over eight minutes long. Good job tho . But if you have never tried left hand drill bits you will be greatly surprised by trying them. This would have took less time to do than it took to put the bit in the drill . But you did great your way also . Thanks
Um parafuso quebra por excesso de força no aperto. Este está completamente solto. Quando quebra e trava, o melhor ( se possível) é furar o centro com uma broca fina, ir alargando o furo com outras brocas e por fim usar um macho de rosca esquerda.
What good does it do to cover the top of the tapped when the cuttings are are falling down into the engine? oh, I see the air will blow everything further in.
The best way is to take out the whole piece and drill the broken bits with smaller drill bit on a perfectly horizontal surface. The way it is done here, there may be problems later when fasterning back the machine as the screw trade has been damaged. The method show here not in line with precision engineering.
My good friend, I can assure you that if that bolt had heat seized in that casing, no amount of tapping it with a punch would get it to loosen up. I also love the way you use your circlip plyers to remove the bolt, what happened to your long nosed plyers?
Именно что трюк🤓прикипевшие и пережатые обломки такими ногтями не испугать. 1 как на видео - легкими постукиваниями керна 2 высверливаем, вкручиваем вывертышь. 3 привариваем гайку, заодно ослабляем зажим при нагреве 4 левым сверлом или переделанным обычным. 5 два отверстия и отверткой с пропилом или подобием ключа от болгарки 6 3х гранный напильник в заранее просверленное отверстие 7 специальным электродом, образующим на сломаной шпильке стержень Пс. Думаю, надежнее было высверлить, заварить аргоном и нарезать новую резьбу, а не ставить какую то х...
Some people add a little bit of bearing grease in the shred collecting portion of the re-threading tool. This way it lubricates the cut and collects the material keeping it in that gap rather than it slipping between or rubbing into the threads.
Removing broken bolts on a bench or in an easily accessible place is one thing and a lot easier than trying to remove a broken bolt when still in the car etc. Nearly every video shows bolts broken off in a soft metal case like aluminum, but, trying to do it in a cast iron engine with a hardened steel bolt like a starter bolt where you can't fit a hammer or get a drill into the space is quite another conundrum.
Kalau membuka baut yg patah dengan cara tersebut itu adalah cara jaman dulu sebelum ada alat draad putaran terbalik. Sampai sekarang masih ada yang pakai cara tersebut.
O truque, afinal, não é tão simples como parece, caso o parafuso esteja bem firme dentro da rosca. E geralmente parafusos quebram justamente por estarem presos na rosca. A melhor maneira é usar um punção e marcar o centro do parafuso e depois ir furando com um broca fina (de widea, melhor) e enfim usar um extrator se necessário, já que às vezes dando reverso na furadeira (bem devagar) a broca "engancha" no parafusos e este sai numa boa.
Очень интересно.Сверху закрыли тряпкой,чтобы струшка не попадала на на детали при нарезки резьбы.Но стружка то падает вниз.Ребята-будьте внимательны,особенно,когда продуваете сжатым воздухом остатки стружки.Рекомендую вам,просмотреть ваше видио самим,как это всё вы делали.
В бытность работы мотористом частенько отламывал болты (особенно у зил-120?) на головке блока , но ни разу при отломе, отверстия там не было, чтобы нарезать резьбу. И приходилось сверлить, потом забивать что-то твёрдое и выкручивать Ну или же иметь сверло, может метчик левосторонние.
посмеялся от души. если резьба слабая и болт вкручен не до конца без натяга и не прикипел тогда да. но выкручивать надо не керном а заточенным эксцентриком маленьким зубильцем . если не идет сверлим по центру меньшим сверлом забиваем заточенный из твердого металла конус . с другой стороны конус заточен под ключ и выкручиваем не нарушая резьбу
A small drill and a round tapered file i used a lot before left hand drills were available. For bigger bolts i used a round tapered steel rasp after drilling a hole in them.
Обломок *болта* - далеко не то же, что обломок *шпильки:* в торце первого можно просверлить 2 отверстия под плоскую отвёртку с вырезом - а в торце второго придётся сверлить *осевое* отверстие для экстрактора (негодного метчика со спиленными на косой клин зубьями).
@@gewelryamator4252, напильники делают из ОЧЕНЬ хрупкой стали - У13А, которая ПЛОХО работает на скручивание: из трёхгранных напильников делали *шаберы...*
@@gewelryamator4252ну конечно. Я работал в АТП, в иструменталке был комплект вывертышей, однажды я взял такой со стола перепутав с обычным метчиком и так узнал об их существовании)
I've never encountered a broken bolt stud that could be unscrewed that easily. Usually the studs break because they are stuck so tight that the force required to loosen them is greater than the strength of the bolt.
I think this bolt clearly snapped under use, and not while trying to disassemble it, if it was corroded stuck, this method wouldnt work. Unless he heated it up and broke the bond, and got enough corrosion solvent in there over time then this could work, but then it would be easier to just weld the bolt, as that adds both heat, and a way to turn the bolt again..
Probably from stud stretch. Then snap
Or galled
and one more thing,
he used tap and blow pressured air on scrapped aluminum,
not a good way of doing it in that situation,
those scaps might have entered the engine even with the cloth there
This is almost impossible
Стакими ногтями его можно было просто ногтем выковырять)))
😄
Это пиздец, там компостная куча под ногтями, отвратительно, несмог смотреть
Америку явно не открыл. Я в детстве так делал.
Алекс нельзя, а вдруг резьбу испортишь.
Эт точно
Те,кто сталкивался с подобной проблемой,знают,что этот простой трюк работает крайне редко .
Meist sitzen die Schraubenstümpfe bombenfest.
Когтями этого мастера можно выкрутить любой болт 🐾🤙🏻🔥
По деревьям можно лазить!!!!
И нельзя совать в вагину !
Росоямаха
@@user-cr3ux4yc7q древолаз😁
Баба вроде это
Показан очень сложный случай - обломок свободно люфтит.
Вот, если, обломок чуть прихватило коррозией, или на герметике - тогда, вообще, раз плюнуть!)))
Он сам его наверно закрутил обломок и героически извлек
@@romankapustinKa похоже он ради пиара выебнулся, ну бля не $ука он?
@@sergeybondarenko4733 да ещё какая
Как вообще умудрились сломать свободно болтающийся в резьбе болт? 😂😂😂😂 Научите меня!
Это видео про маникюр)
Если заломыш не прикипел и так свободно болтается, он бы не сломался. Ролик - "сказка"
Китайские болты ломает при стягивании . их просто отрывает. Эта процедура работает. Конечно лучше просверлить левым сверлом небольшое отверстие и забить в него шестигранник
Всё ещё проще в плане шестигранника. Можно выкрутить экстрактором.😉👍@@user-or1fb4lf7j
In my forty plus years as a service engineer I would say I have removed maybe 50% of bolts like that but normally they are to tight to knock around, if you have a bolt that is snapped a good way down the hole a good trick is if you have a Lathe get a socket cap screw the same size and thread as the snapped one put it in the Lathe and drill a hole through the centre then put it in the hole were the snapped bolt is then using the same drill bit drill through the snapped bolt it allows you to get the dead centre you can then put penetrating oil down the hole and use an easy out. I always keep a selection of different size bolts ready to use works a treat.
Great tip, thanks!
I generally go with the concept that if it is liquid it cannot be stuck. 🙂 Seriously, anybody who is working with steel bolts in aluminum castings should be applying an anti seize when assembling the parts. It will also help to prevent stripout when tightening the bolts.
Это просто фантастика. Жалко что такие заломыши встречаются в одном случае из ста из за того что это был говноболт. Обычно это прикипевшие, приржавевшие или обломанные из за того что не по резьбе закручивались и вот там всë это не работает. А вот удаление такого заломыша как в видео я бы и снимать постеснялся.
Первый обломок испарился после прохода метчика а второй это вообще смех ,в жизни такое бывает один раз из 100.
Вы правы, дать бы ему выхлопной коллектор со сломанной шпилькой, как бы он её выкрутил.
@@user-vj2mc8dg7b метчиком прогналбы ))
Счастливая бредятина .
@@user-gh7rg8wp6e ну верить или нет это твоë личное дело. Так и живи считая что в России все в говне живут, тогда глядишь своë говно меньше вонять будет. Удачи тебе, дружище.
Loved how he covered the chain with the rag and then blew everything in deeper with the air
He covered the chain so it couldn't LINK up with other parts and laugh at him if he messes up, that might start a CHAIN reaction😆. Yeah I don't know why you would only cover something then blow metal fragments all over.😵
Ногти подстриги!
@@jeffharper7579 Thought the same. Made me smile.
@@loubakker5000 già... i frammenti di metallo vanno sempre in giù... 😂 😂
suction please nurse
Сверление и сварка уже выглядят проще и доступнее, чем способы на видео.
кувалда и болгарка, плять!
@@brothershooryn_219 вот именно, как хрен в рукомойнике
Слишком глубоко болт обломался, сваркой не дотянуться.
Percage et extracteur avec un pas a gauche👍
Application of HELICOIL and punch-walking are two old-school crafts that were taught back in the early part of the industrial revolution. Schools used to teach these principles but technology has all but buried these common since crafts. My dad raised me in a machine shop, so He taught me these principles. I learned about HELICOIL application at my railroad career, and it's SO GOOD to watch it demonstrated on a free-to-watch video to the world! THANK YOU for your video !!!
Болтающийся остаток болта можно было выкрутить выверткой левой и не долбить полчаса. А с такими когтями можно было прям ими как отвёрткой крутить 😂
При нарезании резъбы в алюминии или их сплавах используют обыкновенное мыло ,а не масло как по стали.Проверено....
Когтями😁😁😂😆🤣
Идиотизм
Когти иногда надо стричь, верно. Или у них там это не по баблу? Неприятно.
🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍 до слёз...
I normally use a center punch to: A. Shock the broken bolt, THEN: B. use a left hand drill bit and SLOWLY drill at the center punch mark INTO the broken bolt. MOST of the time, the bit will bind into the broken part and back it out for you. If not, then you can use an extractor in the hole made by left hand drill!. TIP: A bit of grease will catch the shavings and keep them out of the engine.
That is the best and surest way to have the job done.
Bolts usually break because they're seized in. This bolt came out much too easily. The thread was even loose. This isn't going to be the case, most of the time.
Agree best fix for the bolt shown in video. I would add to leave the drill bit loosely chucked as to not break the drill off in the broken bolt.
@@johnsolenski140 The bolt in the video didn't even need a drill. All it required was a punch to extract it. Hardly much of a challenge. The first half of the video about fitting a helicoil, wasn't even mentioned in the video title.
Повесил тряпку, чтобы стружка не попала, а потом сжатым воздухом продул... Зачем тряпку клал?..
Господи я на одном дыхании смотрел эту очень сложную операцию по извлечению сломанного болтика. Хотя мне показалось когда он дул воздухом тот болтик сам уже начал выкручиваться. Одним словом мастер своего дела
Came here to learn something, what I learned is how to contain swarf within the engine using a rag and a airline 😵💫 top mechanic !
This solution is effective only in one case: when the bolt breaks off while being tightened, and when it does not rest against the bottom, after which, usually, the thread “unwinds” and changes pitch if the tightening was carried out without observing the torque. therefore, you first need to make sure that the thread has not “unraveled” on the broken edge. otherwise, when turned out, not only the pitch, but also the alignment will be destroyed on the upper remainder of the thread.
To install a helicoil you have to first oversize the hole , thread and then put in helicoil. for the second bolt only one in a thousand will come out this way. A left hand drill bit will remove some and in the other case a small drill and an easyout will remove the bolt. If not drill out the hole with a slightly larger bit and either tap to larger size or tap and install helicoil.
He could have used his finger nails instead of the 2nd hand ground down pliers.
🤣
I clicked to comment the same exact thing! Lmao
He could have also used a vacuum cleaner instead of blowing with air the metal shavings into the engine!!
Could be a woman, fingers way too long as well.
I’d say a drill and Easyout would still have been quicker with less chance of damaging the upper threads with that homemade centre punch
Здесь смысл не в извлечении "заломыша", а в заголовке ролика.
Эффективная замануха - наше ВСЁ!!!
Many years ago I had a stud break just below the surface of an alloy engine block. The guy who saved my bacon took a short length of mild steel flat bar, drilled a hole near one end, slightly smaller than the stud diameter. He then TIG welded the bar to the broken stud through the hole. He then just unscrewed it, the heat of the weld also helped free up the corrosion which caused the breakage in the first place.
My broke stud was held completely tight... the method shown here would never have worked.
I'm assuming the bolt broke when tightening because no corrosion is present. Nice presentation on Heli-coil prep and installation. This person is well-experienced on proper tapping procedures of aluminum, backing to break chips and clearing chips before they score the new threads. Nice video!
He is just letting all the swarf fall into the engine.
Тряпочка конечно выполнила свою задачу😂
Это точно
это чтоб не отсвечивало
@@businesstrip1086 tylko przeciw potu
Первый раз вижу автослесаря с таким маникюром 🤪
Выключил после первого момента с ногтями!!!!
Это чтоб в носу ковыряться)
Европа однако.....
Он солидол под ногтями домой вороует
Хули за смену лак стирается,он после работы подкрашивает.😂
ボルトが折れると焦りますが、中で折れたオルトは簡単に回りますので細い鉄棒に瞬間接着剤を付けてボルトに接着して
接着剤が固まるのを見計らい回転させれば折れたボルトを簡単に取り出すことができます。
硬いようでしたら折れたボルトにドリルで穴を開けて太い針金をこの穴に差し込み瞬間接着剤で固定すればほとんどの折れたボルトを外すことができます。
Проще простого, попробуйте таким способом извлечь прикипевший остаток болта или закрученный не по резьбе)А тут можно было и когтями)))
Great trick that almost never works. Only when the screw is completely free of contamination and corrosion and is not deformed at all. A little galvanic corrosion or rust or oil sludge and it doesn't work. If the bolt is cross threaded it doesn't work. If it is bent it doesn't work. If it breaks in tension, the top few threads are usually deformed and it doesn't work. If the screw is stainless it doesn't work. If a steel screw is threaded into aluminum, it doesn't work. I could go on. If you have actually tried this trick, then you have probably resorted to drilling and using an ez-out or welding a stud, or drilling and re-threading to a larger size, or drilling and heli-coiling, which is what you see him doing on the first of the two holes. Probably because the simple trick didn't work and he resorted to using a drill and drill guide to remove the bulk of the bolt, then a dental pick to try to pick out the remaining pieces, then ran a tap into the hole, found out that the thread was shot anyway, then bored it over, tapped it, and put a heli-coil it. Note that you can see the stub of the broken screw in the first hole before he starts tapping, then there is a cut at 1:47, and turns the tap back out and the screw piece is gone. These UA-cam tricks and "Next level process" videos always make anyone who has actually worked in a machine shop or repair shop roll their eyes back in their head. When you see "life hack." "next level," or "simple trick" in a youtube video, it should set off your bullsh!t detector.
These people are only aprendists, not qualyfyed techition.
I have used the hammer & punch or chisel method many times.
I was born before easy-outs were invented & I couldn't afford a welder.
What I have is patience and tenacity.
@@savage22bolt32 Yeah, I’d agree. This is all you need a lot of the time, and is the most basic method so you need to learn it first! On teaching it to apprentices I’ve often heard “ah, would never have thought of that!”
RIGHT ! Jeremy Hicks is 100% right. When the trouble is a broken screw...OK, sometimes it works, provided you got enough room for the maneuver. If the hole is too deep it won't be possible. In that case you must use a carbide drill and make a hole right in the broken screw. But when you got a broken tap...which usually is stuck, matters become more complicated. You get the job done if you have a tap extractor. Not a cheap chinese stuff as it will brake easily. The Walton stuff may be the right option.
You took the words out of my mouth!
A lot of you don't seem to understand this was just to show you the technique, not what he probably would have done normally. It was just a demonstration, created for whomever might benefit. Now you know....
Thanks for the tip. I'm no longer a mechanic and I used to do the same for hummv cylinder heads. But it doesn't work most of the time. I would use left handed drill bits too.
Парень с длинными ногтями - ты лучший!
Такой херни я давно не видел. Ключём ты болт обломал, а кёрнышком так спокойненько, не напрягаясь - тук, тук - и открутил!
Молодец!
КлючОм
Этот парниша не русский - у них мозги через жёпу работать....
Этот парень факир, у него всё получится!
Hello,
Thank you for the video. It was very informative concerning one method of removing a broken bolt and in this case in an aluminum casting. Using a punch to screw a set of threads on out the way they were going. I used to be a machinist in a Ford road truck dealership and removing broken bolts was part of my purpose and I did remove hundreds of them. I just want to bring up a couple of points.
Point 1: It is seldom you get a broken bolt that will come out like you have just shown in this video. Most of the time, the reason the bolts are broken is because the threads are stuck in the threads the bolt is put into. Removing any broken bolt, I used to always try to use the method you have demonstrated first as it is the easiest. When I have tried what you have shown and the threads are stuck where they will not screw out, I try taping strait down on the broken bolt to see if that will break the threads free. If not, I will put some heat on the broken bolt and going forward, there are more invasive ways to do that will come next.
Point 2: In the video, you attempted to surround the place where you were working with a cloth to keep from getting savings down in the head which will ultimately get into the crank case. You did good putting the rag around where you were working. But, the next thing you did was take an air line to clear the trips away where you could see. Well when you used the forced air, you just blew all those shavings and chips right up under the rag. Not Good.
a 50 cc engine not the same as a 350 F150 eh get a drill and left turn cutting edge be done . as for tapping I use duct tape and a good rag . keep the chips out . seen the same thing there goes the crank bearings lol
Exactly what you said, my experience is the same as you described, and also to keep shawings under control I use grese besides rag precut shape to fit snugly around the place which needs attention. This is pretty much untipical. Also lefthand drill bit is of great help.
exactly,
the rags purpose was useless when he used the forced air
Eu, inainte de a posta o filmare de acest gen, în primul rând cred că mi-aș tăia unghiile 😀
Man, stop trying to convince him. In India anything is possible. It's full of UA-cam with such engineers
Маникюр ШИКАРНЫЙ... Где такой делал? Неужто там же, в том же салоне? Я на болтик даже и не смотрел. Да он от чертилки и так бы выкрутился... :)
Ребята,ну видно же ,что это чудо мастера из Индии😅
Когда он начал выкручивать обломок круглогубцами, я подумал это оператор ему решил помочь своей рукой😂
))))))))))))))))
I've used the same trick myself. I used a masonry nail as a punch with it being very thin, sharp and very hard. Take your time and care don't mash the hole or the end of the broken off bolt up.
Nice job all the shavings inside the valves 👍
Bueno, siempre puedes soplar; pero espera!, aprovecha para antes pintarle las uñas 😉
А что за машина ЗИЛ 120 наверное такого мастера как он будет этот беркут
Backwards turn drill bit will often spin those right out. The punch method I've used often as well.
Thank you for this idea, very helpful to save money
I have done this before too!
Thanks for the great video, and a huge thanks for not ruining it with crappy background music.
Походу шпильку обломали на закручивании и с упором носика в тело головки, не в край резьбы, иначе обломок так легко бы не выкрутился
Не это не так было, скорей всего крышку снял, спецом туда обломышь с руки ввернул, а потом выебывается, вот типа, смотрите как надо было))
You placed a cloth around the broken stud to stop swarf going into the engine and then proceeded to blow the swarf into the engine with the air line!😅
The first one might happen once or twice in a life time.the second one I've done 3or4 times in my life,works when your lucky enough that the stud is loose in the thread.
Вся стружка в движке. Молодец косяк.
Ещё и песок от грязной тряпки, которую он закинул на двиг якобы от стружки.
Этот мастер-фломастер когти стрежет когда-нибудь?
what horrible nails ...
Да не когда, зачем? Они сами обламываются 😂😂😂😂😂😂
Он этим когтем в нутро своей пУ́сечки 😂 прощупывает каждый раз
Они у него самозатачивающиеся.
Зачем ему ногти стричь, они у него вместо отвёртки.
Развеселил! Молодчина! Кометы, огонь!!!
You could use a drill bit that runs counterclockwise to drill a center hole in the broken bolt. If the bolt is loose enought the drill would back out the bolt.
TIP
Sometimes there is a small screw like a No 8 or No 10 stuck in a hole. Its head has broken off. For that I used a No 6 self tapping screw and drive it into the broken screw. A moment later the hole is free and new threads have been tapped.
Simplest way is not to break the bolt in the first place. If it feels tight, apply a little heat to the bolt head only. Cool with air line and repeat as many times as necessary. It usually works after the first couple of applications.
cool, but you tell that to a bolt that just snaps from having been torqued up and heat cycled and just lost the will to live while installed
@@stijnvandamme76 Yep, I'm afraid some will just break anyway, Just tough luck sometimes
Вот это по нашему. Закрыть (местами) тряпочкой и ...Раздуть( а не пропылесосить) всю стружку по всей "башке" (гбц). Лайк за солидарность в технологиях "срача". (Шутка , хотя...)
Бро да мы Русские это поняли)))
@@odinochka42 Нам бы славянам немецкой чистоты и точности .... Смотря этот ролик, сам себя поймал на мысли что и я, такой же" чисто плотный" моторист.Ведь сам уже в дв.ЕР -6 (BMW) ронял сухари клапанов в канал цепи привода ГРМ . Потом сутки искал, пока не нашел .
@@Igor-uo6tc я это проходил тоже. И теперь все отверстия закрываю тряпочками)))
@@odinochka42 На эту тему есть Байка. При встрече в Тегеране Сталин задал вопрос Черчиллю : "Что Вы думаете о Русских воинах? " Ответ Черчилля был : Вы ,русские - единственная НАЦИЯ ,которая упорно создаёт себе проблемы и... с не меньшим упорством их решает."
@@odinochka42 надо просто метчик густо намазать литолом. Тогда вся стружка выйдет с метчиком обратно. Обтер и стерильно.
I found that using a left hand drill works best to remove a broken bolt.
Это не проще, чем засверлить сломанный болт обратной резьбой или парой отверстий для ключа по типу вилки.
I encountered this very same thing on my 1979 morini 350 when a hardened trunion (rocker shaft) stud snapped flush with the head. My dad who was a marine engineer taught me this exact same method using a small sharpened punch and it worked!!
Мне больше всего понравилось выкручивание болта пальцем! Ну и, конечно, надо было в двигло ещё пару щепоток стружки и какого-нибудь мусора насыпать. Для надёжности!
Прикрыть старыми штанами, вот это поворот.
да ты просто чертов гений!!!как я жил до этого ,засверливая обломок и пользуясь левым метчиком,чтобы его выкрутить?все -зря...но теперь то я знаю,как надо и легко выверну все обломки,не напрягаясь со сверлением..почему я не знал этого раньше?
Способ конечно не очень,но ноготь вообще огонь 🔥🔥🔥
Left handed drill bit is always my first option. Has worked more times than I would have expected.
Yes !
the best thing is to use a small metal tube in which to pass the left handed drill bit
so as not to damage the thread
Good idea, but left handed bits aren't very common. They're kind of hard to find, and I imagine they cost more than their regular right hand counterparts. Too, I'm not sure I could get used to sharpening a lefty. It would take some getting used to, for sure.
Does the bit ever break?
I don't recall ever breaking a lefty bit. I suggest a quality bit (cobalt, carbide, titanium coated at the least. Gentle pressure, low rpm, DRY, Very slight off center angle of attack. You want the bit to Bite and reverse the fastener. Screw extractior comes next if need be Good Luck!
Обычно прикипевшие или ржавые болты ломаются,посмотрел бы я как он их выкрутил этим сомнительным способом.
Да ты ещё не видел как он по пальмам лазит с такими когтями🤣🤣🤣
По щючьему велению....
Thank you
I just broke one of the bolts off the magnita on my pushmower working on the flywheel. My homeboy let me take the bolts off and the first one I took off I broke it LOL
В самых тяжёлых случаях, не прибегая к электроэррозионному методу, именно из алюминиевого литья, сталь можно вытравить раствором 15 - 20 % АЗОТНОЙ КИСЛОТЫ. Не концентрированной, иначе будет происходить пассивация. Температура имеет значение. при нагреве реакция происходит быстрее. Я делал так: По возможности, глухое отверстие располагаем вертикально. Обезжириваем, делаем вокруг буртик из пластилина. Медицинским шприцем с иглой заливаем раствор. Протекающую реакцию заметно по выделению пузырьков газа, раствор мутнеет. Отбираем раствор тем же шприцем, заливаем новый. Я вытравл метчик часов за 12. Алюминий практически не реагирует с азотной кислотой, резьба ни сколько не пострадала. Обязательно держите на готове в ведре раствор пищевой соды, мало ли, вдруг кислота куда нибудь попадёт ! И доступ свежего воздуха, пары вредны ! Всем полных баков, стригите ногти.
метод хорош но только для терпеливых и с мозгами=))
Nice to see he blew the swarf all around the valves and rockers, should have taken more precautions.
Must not have had a vacuum!!
I have had numerous old cars with rusty water pump bolts that like to break off and those reverse cutting drill bit will usually get them out especially if they arent stuck to bad and then I use stainless bolts when I assemble and use anti siege compound and they always do good
It helps to have several plans of attack I usually have about three ...
All ready use 15 years ago.thank you. I am a machine shop.
Как же он этот болт обломал, если он так легко идёт? А главный секрет, как выкрутить болт - это ногти не стричь. Никогда. 😳
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Сам наверно его туда и зах@ярил))
Обломаный болт прочно сидит в гнезде, пальчиком не достаёшь.
Это такие специальные Когти Самозатачивающиеся.
One of the best ways to remove a broken stud is with a left hand drill bit. More often than not the drill bit grabs the stud and backs it right out. I have to do this almost every day taking stainless screws/bolts out of either aluminum or stainless holes and sometimes cast iron.
I have done this also .. if the bolt is broken off seldom easy to back out!!!!
Exactly. Plus this video seems unreal. Left over broken bolts are rarely this loose in the thread. I saw an awesome method to center the bore exactly in such case: use a door hinge centering drill 'bit' to start the whole. Then you can use the left hand drill and easy out if necessary.
Agreed, and or a left hand tap.
I get mine in HSS from the local bolt supplier
I've been working as a mechanic fifty years and breaking a bolt by over tightening often leaves the broken piece loose enough to work out this way. The hardest to remove are almost exclusively broken because of corrosion locking the threads to the aluminum. I would agree, using every possible advantage is the best way to least impact the strength of the aluminum threads.
I have used this method many times.
When you don't have a left hand twist drill.
Мастер крут .Так могут только парни с такими ногтями.
для выкручивания надо иметь целый список приспособлений, инструментов.. а так все просто - делать нечего...
I see this video was just over eight minutes long. Good job tho . But if you have never tried left hand drill bits you will be greatly surprised by trying them. This would have took less time to do than it took to put the bit in the drill . But you did great your way also . Thanks
Um parafuso quebra por excesso de força no aperto. Este está completamente solto. Quando quebra e trava, o melhor ( se possível) é furar o centro com uma broca fina, ir alargando o furo com outras brocas e por fim usar um macho de rosca esquerda.
Я чуть не заплевал увидев ногти
What good does it do to cover the top of the tapped when the cuttings are are falling down into the engine? oh, I see the air will blow everything further in.
normally installing a heli-coil requires drilling the housing over-size.!?
Уникальнейший способ! Просто Шедевр в сфере технического решения.
The best way is to take out the whole piece and drill the broken bits with smaller drill bit on a perfectly horizontal surface. The way it is done here, there may be problems later when fasterning back the machine as the screw trade has been damaged. The method show here not in line with precision engineering.
My good friend, I can assure you that if that bolt had heat seized in that casing, no amount of tapping it with a punch would get it to loosen up. I also love the way you use your circlip plyers to remove the bolt, what happened to your long nosed plyers?
Именно что трюк🤓прикипевшие и пережатые обломки такими ногтями не испугать.
1 как на видео - легкими постукиваниями керна
2 высверливаем, вкручиваем вывертышь.
3 привариваем гайку, заодно ослабляем зажим при нагреве
4 левым сверлом или переделанным обычным.
5 два отверстия и отверткой с пропилом или подобием ключа от болгарки
6 3х гранный напильник в заранее просверленное отверстие
7 специальным электродом, образующим на сломаной шпильке стержень
Пс. Думаю, надежнее было высверлить, заварить аргоном и нарезать новую резьбу, а не ставить какую то х...
Берешь электрод, остывает_выкручиваешь, руки не дрожат варишь, если алкаш все дрожит-то все запорешь. 2 мин. работы и все. Спецы!
Some people add a little bit of bearing grease in the shred collecting portion of the re-threading tool. This way it lubricates the cut and collects the material keeping it in that gap rather than it slipping between or rubbing into the threads.
Right ! Grease is better.......
Очень познавательное видео, от души посмеялся, а ещё больше от комментариев 🤣🤣🤣
Точно ❗️
Комменты - 👍👍👍
Yeps, blow lots of swarf into the top of the cylinder with compressed air. Great technique.
Removing broken bolts on a bench or in an easily accessible place is one thing and a lot easier than trying to remove a broken bolt when still in the car etc. Nearly every video shows bolts broken off in a soft metal case like aluminum, but, trying to do it in a cast iron engine with a hardened steel bolt like a starter bolt where you can't fit a hammer or get a drill into the space is quite another conundrum.
Если этот обрубок изначально болтается в резьбе, может его туда для съёмок закрутили?
Paciência e Capacidade! Parabéns! Aprendo mais um! Valeu! 👍
sai dai vc nunca viu um parafuso travado
Как он вообще сломался? С таким люфтом в резьбе болт руками откручивания.
Для таких обломышей и по сложней очень помогают свёрла с левым вращение.
Kalau membuka baut yg patah dengan cara tersebut itu adalah cara jaman dulu sebelum ada alat draad putaran terbalik. Sampai sekarang masih ada yang pakai cara tersebut.
Слава Богу , что я не один подумал о том ,что он ногтем вывернет😂а оказалось - клювом!
Надо же, а баба просто супер. Мужик бы ни за что не догадался😂
Ваш юмор оценен по достоенству ! Спасибо!
O truque, afinal, não é tão simples como parece, caso o parafuso esteja bem firme dentro da rosca. E geralmente parafusos quebram justamente por estarem presos na rosca. A melhor maneira é usar um punção e marcar o centro do parafuso e depois ir furando com um broca fina (de widea, melhor) e enfim usar um extrator se necessário, já que às vezes dando reverso na furadeira (bem devagar) a broca "engancha" no parafusos e este sai numa boa.
I use a left-twist bit.
Era bom que fosse assim tão fácil! 😂😂😂😂
Человек работает с инструментом,разве болгарки не нашлось ногти спилить😮
Да , тяжелый случай ! Давно я так не смеялся ! Думал как же он его выкрутит ? 🤔А он и сам вывалился . 🤣
Хорошо бы посмотреть как будут выкручивать упёртый с торца обломок калёного болта.
Ногтём легко:)😂
Очень интересно.Сверху закрыли тряпкой,чтобы струшка не попадала на на детали при нарезки резьбы.Но стружка то падает вниз.Ребята-будьте внимательны,особенно,когда продуваете сжатым воздухом остатки стружки.Рекомендую вам,просмотреть ваше видио самим,как это всё вы делали.
Правильно.
Can't understand the thinking behind the procedure.
Was happy to see the rag come out, but couldn't believe how it was placed.
видео из ряда - лишь бы что-то....такую шпильку и обломать, надо лошарой быть
@ 4:43 May I know the name of that conical tool? Thank you for the great film of a very skilled master.
That broken bolt looked like it should have never snapped. It came out so easy.
В бытность работы мотористом частенько отламывал болты (особенно у зил-120?) на головке блока , но ни разу при отломе, отверстия там не было, чтобы нарезать резьбу. И приходилось сверлить, потом забивать что-то твёрдое и выкручивать Ну или же иметь сверло, может метчик левосторонние.
ЗИЛ 120 ? Что за зверь ???
Попрбуй так вывернуть "закисший" обломок на выхлопном коллекторе.
Таким когтиной? Да легко 🤣
@@aleksandrdobrinin4714 👍👍
посмеялся от души. если резьба слабая и болт вкручен не до конца без натяга и не прикипел тогда да. но выкручивать надо не керном а заточенным эксцентриком маленьким зубильцем . если не идет сверлим по центру меньшим сверлом забиваем заточенный из твердого металла конус . с другой стороны конус заточен под ключ и выкручиваем не нарушая резьбу
Зачем всё это - с такими-то когтями...
A truly skilled craftsman at work👍
A small drill and a round tapered file i used a lot before left hand drills were available. For bigger bolts i used a round tapered steel rasp after drilling a hole in them.
Вот это трюк, сума сойти!😏
С такими ногтями можно без всяких приспособ выкручивать).
I use l/h drill bits, and able to use all the original threads.
Обломок *болта* - далеко не то же, что обломок *шпильки:*
в торце первого можно просверлить 2 отверстия под плоскую отвёртку с вырезом -
а в торце второго придётся сверлить *осевое* отверстие для экстрактора (негодного метчика со спиленными на косой клин зубьями).
При Союзе про экстрактор и не подозревали , сверлили отверстие и забивали заточенный трехгранный напильник .
@@gewelryamator4252,
напильники делают из ОЧЕНЬ хрупкой стали - У13А, которая ПЛОХО работает на скручивание:
из трёхгранных напильников делали *шаберы...*
@@gewelryamator4252ну конечно. Я работал в АТП, в иструменталке был комплект вывертышей, однажды я взял такой со стола перепутав с обычным метчиком и так узнал об их существовании)