Thank you for the great video, helped me get my tensioner on today my drive belt was slightly over hanging the edge of the pully so replaced it and its fixed, belt diagram was handy too. Cheers mate.
The standard torque for the M10 8.8 flange head through bolt in the idler is 50nm. I know this because I replaced mine this week. It's a 2.2L I just watched this video because I was quite interested to see that the bolt goes through the timing cover and oil poured out when I removed the bolt. I cleaned it all up and put it back together and hoped for the best. I also have replaced the tensioner on another 3.2 and I went through the drivers side wheel well and didn't remove the air box. Food for thought. I appreciate the bible verse at the start of your video.
Thanks for your help. I replaced a new tensioner. It was very tight to open to put the belt on and broke the square hole and cracked the bottom of the casing. I never to remove the pin which I think prevented me opening up. You may want to add this to your instructions. Not a complaint at all. Thanks
at timestamp 9:25 i say to remove the dowel which will release the tensioner, naturally if the dowel is holding the tension you un tension it and remove dowel.
Hi there a bit off topic... But love your content and find what you share with UA-cam very useful and informative... That said I was wondering if would be able to make a video about tyre pressure sensors on ford ranger and the ins and outs of the function of them...our family ranger has been throwing faults and I've gone down a rabbit hole of trying to rectify the problem with some interesting things been told to me by different people.. I do think a video about this might get a lot of hits... Anyway cheers for your great videos you have made so far 👌
Beware automatic and manual rangers have different tensioner look identical but different internally don’t interchange as manual version will fail in days on auto truck
Hi there, really love your videos, very helpfull. I want to ask, my car model is t6 2014 a/t, currently on 81.000km, there is small sound like car audio storing that following the RPM rotation that can be heard from inside the car cabin, have u encounter this kind of problem before? Many thanks 🙏🏼
I have 2012 Ranger and I’m struggling to find how to fix the dash board lights? Only some of the rev counter is showing light rest are dark. Do I need to replace bulbs???? If so how?
Hey mate just wondering if you have any idea or way to disable the rev match feature in the 6 speed manual 2014 px ranger? If you do mate could you do a video about how to disable it? Would be greatly appreciated as it’s a pain in the a**.
There is no easy way. It has to be tuned out of the pcm. The ford dealer can’t change it. The only setting the dealer could change was turn off alternator smart charging. Have to go to somewhere that tunes 4wd diesels. Get the egr tuned out whilst ya there and put in blanking plates
Unrelated subject. I have a 2015 Ranger Wiltrak 3.2l automatic. I’ve been told by Ford that I need to replace my drive shaft(prop shaft) rear damper bushing, the one just in front of the diff. But they have quoted me a price that replaces the entire drive shaft assembly as one, saying that is how it comes. Can you throw some light on the subject??
i'm guessing your talking about the tailshaft centre bearing, you can buy them on ebay for $75 , they are replaceable , looks like ford just replace the whole tailshaft, thats the expensive route, but easier to do.
@abdautomotive if I could add a photo I would, but I can't. Just forward of the diff is a cylindrical shaped part with a rubber part inside it. Ford call it a drive shaft damper bushing. That's the part I need but no-one seems to be able to get it where I live.
I have checked few times your video and I have got impression that the situation with belt didn't improve too much - the belt still at the edge ot tensioner.
Thank you for the great video, helped me get my tensioner on today my drive belt was slightly over hanging the edge of the pully so replaced it and its fixed, belt diagram was handy too.
Cheers mate.
Just done this job on my 2012 3.2 xlt ranger. Tensioner pulley from China 67.00 delivered its identical to the genuine Ford tension I removed.
Thanks for the proverbs, I love it,.. preaching the gospel in unique kind of way😊😊
The standard torque for the M10 8.8 flange head through bolt in the idler is 50nm. I know this because I replaced mine this week. It's a 2.2L I just watched this video because I was quite interested to see that the bolt goes through the timing cover and oil poured out when I removed the bolt. I cleaned it all up and put it back together and hoped for the best. I also have replaced the tensioner on another 3.2 and I went through the drivers side wheel well and didn't remove the air box. Food for thought.
I appreciate the bible verse at the start of your video.
Thanks for sharing that mate about the 3.2…. Curious how long did it take on the 3.2 and did you need any specialist tooling?
Thanks for your help. I replaced a new tensioner. It was very tight to open to put the belt on and broke the square hole and cracked the bottom of the casing. I never to remove the pin which I think prevented me opening up. You may want to add this to your instructions. Not a complaint at all. Thanks
at timestamp 9:25 i say to remove the dowel which will release the tensioner, naturally if the dowel is holding the tension you un tension it and remove dowel.
Thank you man
Hi there a bit off topic... But love your content and find what you share with UA-cam very useful and informative... That said I was wondering if would be able to make a video about tyre pressure sensors on ford ranger and the ins and outs of the function of them...our family ranger has been throwing faults and I've gone down a rabbit hole of trying to rectify the problem with some interesting things been told to me by different people.. I do think a video about this might get a lot of hits... Anyway cheers for your great videos you have made so far 👌
Hi, I would like to know the torque settings of all those bolts. I would also appreciate if you could show me where you find your torque settings
Beware automatic and manual rangers have different tensioner look identical but different internally don’t interchange as manual version will fail in days on auto truck
Hi there, really love your videos, very helpfull.
I want to ask, my car model is t6 2014 a/t, currently on 81.000km, there is small sound like car audio storing that following the RPM rotation that can be heard from inside the car cabin, have u encounter this kind of problem before?
Many thanks 🙏🏼
Can you make a video of what everone should do to make their ranger/everests last. Maybe a list of mods or things that are worth removing.
Already been done. Check his previous videos
I have 2012 Ranger and I’m struggling to find how to fix the dash board lights? Only some of the rev counter is showing light rest are dark. Do I need to replace bulbs???? If so how?
I have a 2015 ford ranger 3.2 wildtrak . Please tell me What is the part number for the serpentine belt?
Hey mate just wondering if you have any idea or way to disable the rev match feature in the 6 speed manual 2014 px ranger?
If you do mate could you do a video about how to disable it? Would be greatly appreciated as it’s a pain in the a**.
There is no easy way. It has to be tuned out of the pcm. The ford dealer can’t change it. The only setting the dealer could change was turn off alternator smart charging. Have to go to somewhere that tunes 4wd diesels.
Get the egr tuned out whilst ya there and put in blanking plates
Unrelated subject. I have a 2015 Ranger Wiltrak 3.2l automatic. I’ve been told by Ford that I need to replace my drive shaft(prop shaft) rear damper bushing, the one just in front of the diff. But they have quoted me a price that replaces the entire drive shaft assembly as one, saying that is how it comes. Can you throw some light on the subject??
i'm guessing your talking about the tailshaft centre bearing, you can buy them on ebay for $75 , they are replaceable , looks like ford just replace the whole tailshaft, thats the expensive route, but easier to do.
@abdautomotive if I could add a photo I would, but I can't. Just forward of the diff is a cylindrical shaped part with a rubber part inside it. Ford call it a drive shaft damper bushing. That's the part I need but no-one seems to be able to get it where I live.
What year and model it's this Ranger?
I have checked few times your video and I have got impression that the situation with belt didn't improve too much - the belt still at the edge ot tensioner.
It did, was overhanging about 3-4mm now it’s 0mm
I thought the same thing to, looked like it was in exactly the same position, maybe some moment in the crank,.
@@abdautomotive I have checked position of my belt and it is a little be inward compare to your, let see what will happen after 100 K km 😀
It looks like they over hang wen new, but they right on the edge.
48 nm for the idler bolt.