Hey buddy. Great work man! I have a couple of tips to share with ya. When removing fets and transistors, the safest and fastest way is to lay your iron sideways across all three legs and feed fresh solder across all three vias. The part will just fall out. No need to pull with pliers. Then use your desolder iron to suck the fresh solder out leaving a perfect via. Always heat the side with the trace when desoldering. Tip for ppl that actually own a Hakko FR300 or your older model. Because of the large thermal mass, it likes to eat dummy pads. So, just make sure to place the iron on the side with the most thermal mass. I also use your technique using a toothbrush and blue shop paper towels, but I use Acetone. It would of cleaned up all that mess in two rounds. My goal was to first thank you for all your videos because you were key to my success as a repair tech. Second, I wanted to pay you back with some helpful advice that I learned. Thanks again and please look into the live streaming and full uncut uploads. I enjoy all the rambling and time it takes to do a job, because I am usually working right along with you. Best wishes and glad to see ya back👊 Jeremy Loftis
Thanks. Glad I could help. I would say everyone has their own techniques. Sometimes I will lay the iron across but that can sometimes add unnecessary heat to the pads and vias if they are somewhat damaged from the failure. It can worsen and weaken the pads further. When I pull with the pliers I make sure there is no solder holding the legs in the via and it prevents my fingers from getting burnt. It just comes out without getting heat-sink compound on my hands and or bench.
@@The_Active_Region lol. I dont really play music that loud as I used to so I have really been gentle on it. Have it in the closet wrapped in plastic for the time being.
I really like how nice and clean and organized your bench is, I try to keep my bench that way also. Some people post vids and their bench looks like a garbage dump, I couldn’t work that way. Great video, thanks.
Good stuff, Kev! I use an old toothbrush with iso alcohol to clean off flux and old debris. Q-tips are a bit wimpy and leave fuzz; they are ok for removing old thermal compound tho. Works for me.
You can save yourself a lot of work by switching to acetone for carbon cleanup. Fellow tech here. Like your channel. Also have that T shirt! Take care..
Great video! You are very knowledgeable and thorough. You have inspired me to try and repair a couple old amps that I don't have the heart to throw away. Love your bench set up and I wonder how you are able to make a profit doing this kind of work with the time and cost of equipment invested!
Excellent, you are right, in this days Counterfeit Market is a big problem, spare parts should be bought in thusted sellers only. Digikey, Mouser, Newark and some others in USA, I have two trusted chinese seller also. I have the same Hakko 808 desoldering gun. I been fixing High End audio equipment for many years and treadmill motor controllers only. Best Regards.
Glad to see you working on Alpine Gear, doesn't lend itself much confidence in the Brand though burning up like that and poor QC looking at loose transistor controllers, or you think that was just normal wear and tear?
I have 3x 1507 yeah xD and one of them have same problem, but my pcb looks really bad, caps resistors everything in area is black smokey f... black... other 2 still working maybe looks not fresh... ;P Old mrv1005 and T505 ive got too ;D
Hello, I have watched your videos on amplifier repair. they have helped me a lot. Could you perhaps give me some pointers in the right direction. I have a MRV-F407 and all the biases are off so the protection circuits wont let pwr supply start. Getting a bit frustrated. Brgds
I get my parts from Digikey or Mouser. I am restoring a JVC Cassette Deck, and using parts like Nichicon Muse caps and so on, and it is going well. Quality parts are quality results. Parts are already easy to get. Ebay is a sham everytime.
I have a question at 40:22 regarding the wave on the oscilloscope. If that waveform start to build a square wave, but then immediately shrinks to a spike is that an indication there's some bad gate resistors or maybe caps?
International rectifiers MOSFET'S they are pretty robust components You basically have a DC-DC converter that acts like a switch mode power supply to create the rail voltage for the class A/B amp
Ok I need to send all my 1507 mrvs to you...... Never had any issues with mine until I took them out of my car, they sat for one year and when I tried to reinstall they worked but the power light that should be green now is a flashing red.... anyway I have a total of 4 where do I need to send them to.......
It is sad they they would put the effort forward to clone cheap parts as it is. I don't get it. They should have stiffer fines for importing fake branded parts.
That is a big boy dam. Si I have an alpine mrd m605 with water damage. Not much visible though as far as damage. What typically goes when a amp gets water damage. Or what needs repair typically? Fixed many electronics over the years but never a car amp.
I have the mrv-t757 that needs repair.. the transistors are all bad and the little resisters are black that are next to them.. a speaker it was running had it's voice coil short out and it took the amp out... How much do you charge to repair the amp? I know it's old but I've had it for a long time and would like to keep it around yet
Where are you located? I have a nearly new, unused but out of warranty, Alpine MRV-F300 that has a channel that is... off. Via RCA pre-amp It doesn't have the punch of the the others. It is more muted with less base.
I have s mrv+f345 that the fan impeller fell into the smo snd got lodged between the crossover and the case,do the little metal tsng on it must have shorted something out i only get static now .could you repair this?
Hey how are u doing i have an alpine mrv 1507 i would like u to repair it is very sentimental to me ive had it for 30 years ive watch ur page and i like ur work how could i getvin contact with u
Hey so I have an alpine amp and the power, remote, and ground inputs are broken off. Anyway to replace them? I took apart the amp but it looks like they are soldered
Not unless you have the part to replace it with either from a donor amp or you can scab something in. Not likely you will be able to find a replacement part new.
I have a v power model no. MRV-M500 I HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THIS AMP WHEN HOOK IT UP EVERY THING LOOKS GOOD GOVTO TRY IT OUT THERE IS NO BLUE LIGHT. BUT A RED SOLID LIGHT STAY ON NEVER BLINKS ANY SUGGESTIONS?
Hey there, i had a question, i have a old Alpine amp (3553) and my fuse holder is in bad shape,the prongs are distorted,housing is in sad shape,it needs replacing,the rest of the amp is ok,is Alpine my only hope ? i doubt they would have parts for this old of a amp or could they? thank you for your time.
Alpine will most likely be no help. You can always try but from my experience not worth the effort. I would try to find something you can scab in to replace it. Even if it is internal. It will make for a pain to replace it but if your system is functioning correctly you should never blow it. I will sometime use crimp terminals to scab in fuses. something like this for smaller auto type fuses. www.alliedelec.com/product/3m/fdi10-250q/70233869/?adpos=&scid=scplp70233869&sc_intid=70233869&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInNHTxdm96wIVBI-GCh215ABEEAkYByABEgK68fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds You will need to run some wires from the original fuse location to the connectors.
Thank you for your reply,the fuse holder is off the board,it was in very bad shape, this amp is pretty old,i have a buddy thats a surgeon with a soldering iron, i think what ill do is find a holder that has the 2 cables and ill have him solder it to the board. The solder is already there and it was a really nice clean break,where the holder pulled out it left 2 nice clean little holes and the board is untouched so it will be a easy fix, i just wanted to go original but finding that holder will be impossible , i called 6 or 7 people today including Alpine and the mighty Pacific,no go there, my best bet will be to either do what i said i was going to do or find a donor that burned up and cabbage on to that holder.
Sir, where do you order your ICs, bridges, tranzies, mosfets, and diodes???? All these electronic component stores in my local area, are closing their doors forever on me. Also, I no longer have a local Radio Shack anymore. I used to buy my electrolytic caps there. The closest Radio Shack to me now, is across the border in Reynosa, Tamaulipas, Mexico. Even coming back to the United States from Mexico has become a sick joke, even more so because of this pandemic!!!
Hey I have a mrp m2000 I bought on ebay that man someone hacked up and I think it has some wrong parts got it to turn on but no sound I sent it out to someone and they had it for almost 2 years I get it back doesn't work and screws were loose please if any help lmk
Soooooo I messed up and put the wrong capacitors on my alpine mvr-m2000 when i was trying to repair it. The ones I ordered and installed were 270uf 100v. Turns out I actually needed 1800uf 25v. I tried to power the amp up and the light came on but I got no sound. So I re-opened the amp and thats when I realized that I had installed the wrong caps.. I just ordered the correct caps and will be installing them when they come in. My questions are, would having the wrong caps in cause the "no sound output" and could I have damaged anything else by installing the wrong caps?
Well the capacitance was substantially lower but the voltage was higher. So the caps will not explode but the power supply filtering due to the lower capacitance will be lacking. It is possible that the power supply was not turning on properly or causing a lot of noise in circuits. There is no way I can tell you for sure if it did any damage but I kind of doubt it.
@@The_Active_Region So the power supply not getting powered up fully could be the reason I had no output. Makes sense. I also attempted to test the mosfets and other components but as they are all still in circuit (and I dont know what they are supposed to read because I cant find any schematics for the MPR-M2000) I couldnt really figure out if they were okay. Although just from looking at the board nothing else seems damaged or out of place.
Mosfets usually short when they fail should be easy to find with a meter. Unless they blow apart they will read open. Any weird reading in between is ok in circuit. If it shows a short and then goes away then it is good as the mosfet turned on from testing it.
@@The_Active_Regionstrange question but is there any way I could video chat with you just to show you the readings I'm getting from the fets? The smaller ones are showing fairly consistent readings depending on which direction I test and what legs I probe. But the larger ones (not sure if they are output or power side on this board) are testing .OL when putting positive lead on center leg and negative lead to either side (if that makes sense) but when I put negative lead to center leg and test positive to either side they show a reading. Also 4 of the larger ones show a reading of .002 from outside leg to outside leg either direction.
Instead of using a Q-TIP in the bad areas of the heat sink , why not just user emery cloth or a Dremal bit It's probably better to replace the whole unit , the damage is quite severe
Not rude at all. Valid question. Sometimes people fall in love with a specific device. Sometimes there is no suitable replacement in the current market. Sometimes it fits in a specific location or even matches their other equipment that is all the same make that is no longer manufactured.
Possibly unknowingly. It was very common for people to do that. It could have saved thousands of these amps from being tossed out if they were ran at no lower than 4 ohms bridged.
In this day and age, catastrophic damage like this should not be happening. That is poor design. I don't care what company it is. Poor regulation, and headroom, and protection. You said they keep coming to your bench, and that is enough for me not to buy one. I like your setup and your video. Too bad Alpine didn't get it together on that design. Well I could give as a pass as someone else did the work, but the fact still so much failed otherwise says that is bad design from Alpine to begin with. No excuse for that at all.
The problem is that many people ran these amps at 2 ohms where they are only designed fot 4 ohms bridged. Since these amps survived the last 2 decades people just assume they are 2 ohm stable like most amps these days.
Hey buddy. Great work man! I have a couple of tips to share with ya. When removing fets and transistors, the safest and fastest way is to lay your iron sideways across all three legs and feed fresh solder across all three vias. The part will just fall out. No need to pull with pliers. Then use your desolder iron to suck the fresh solder out leaving a perfect via. Always heat the side with the trace when desoldering. Tip for ppl that actually own a Hakko FR300 or your older model. Because of the large thermal mass, it likes to eat dummy pads. So, just make sure to place the iron on the side with the most thermal mass. I also use your technique using a toothbrush and blue shop paper towels, but I use Acetone. It would of cleaned up all that mess in two rounds. My goal was to first thank you for all your videos because you were key to my success as a repair tech. Second, I wanted to pay you back with some helpful advice that I learned. Thanks again and please look into the live streaming and full uncut uploads. I enjoy all the rambling and time it takes to do a job, because I am usually working right along with you. Best wishes and glad to see ya back👊
Jeremy Loftis
Thanks. Glad I could help. I would say everyone has their own techniques. Sometimes I will lay the iron across but that can sometimes add unnecessary heat to the pads and vias if they are somewhat damaged from the failure. It can worsen and weaken the pads further. When I pull with the pliers I make sure there is no solder holding the legs in the via and it prevents my fingers from getting burnt. It just comes out without getting heat-sink compound on my hands and or bench.
@thediscman6969 😮holy... that was straight from the ❤
Great Job Kev. I always like how you approach your repairs and the time you take on details. Thanks for another great Video.
You are a absolute genius! My Alpine 1505 you repaired for me 2 years ago still playing strong.
Nice. Plus I know the long hard life that amp has seen before you got it haha.
@@The_Active_Region lol. I dont really play music that loud as I used to so I have really been gentle on it. Have it in the closet wrapped in plastic for the time being.
I really enjoyed watching the repair. Great job! Looking forward to your next repair video.
I have this amp and love it. I've never seen this done and appreciate the demo. I know who to call if my old 1507 ever needs care! Subscribed.
I really like how nice and clean and organized your bench is, I try to keep my bench that way also. Some people post vids and their bench looks like a garbage dump, I couldn’t work that way. Great video, thanks.
Love the shirt and the picture in picture!
Good stuff, Kev!
I use an old toothbrush with iso alcohol to clean off flux and old debris. Q-tips are a bit wimpy and leave fuzz; they are ok for removing old thermal compound tho. Works for me.
I use a tooth brush as well in certain cases. The only problem is it splatters the sludge everywhere.
I love alpine I knew the 3545 big 2 channel beast
You can save yourself a lot of work by switching to acetone for carbon cleanup. Fellow tech here. Like your channel. Also have that T shirt! Take care..
Great point! Thanks.
Great video! You are very knowledgeable and thorough. You have inspired me to try and repair a couple old amps that I don't have the heart to throw away.
Love your bench set up and I wonder how you are able to make a profit doing this kind of work with the time and cost of equipment invested!
wish i would of saw your videos years ago, i have this same amp that needs repaired, car tunes couldn't fix it
Excellent, you are right, in this days Counterfeit Market is a big problem, spare parts should be bought in thusted sellers only.
Digikey, Mouser, Newark and some others in USA, I have two trusted chinese seller also.
I have the same Hakko 808 desoldering gun.
I been fixing High End audio equipment for many years and treadmill motor controllers only.
Best Regards.
Hello great video. Do you happen to have part numbers of the stuff you replaced?
Glad to see you working on Alpine Gear, doesn't lend itself much confidence in the Brand though burning up like that and poor QC looking at loose transistor controllers, or you think that was just normal wear and tear?
Might be a good idea to glue down those big tall components that break their solder joints.
Great Vid.... What Flux are you using here???
The first few sentences got me. Lol so where do I send mine?
I have 3x 1507 yeah xD and one of them have same problem, but my pcb looks really bad, caps resistors everything in area is black smokey f... black...
other 2 still working maybe looks not fresh... ;P
Old mrv1005 and T505 ive got too ;D
Hello, I have watched your videos on amplifier repair. they have helped me a lot. Could you perhaps give me some pointers in the right direction. I have a MRV-F407 and all the biases are off so the protection circuits wont let pwr supply start. Getting a bit frustrated.
Brgds
Love watching your videos, but I’m not really confident enough to take on a repair my self. Would you be open to some commission work.
Hello Kev, hope you're well. Any new? Yours videos are missing. See you soon.
I get my parts from Digikey or Mouser. I am restoring a JVC Cassette Deck, and using parts like Nichicon Muse caps and so on, and it is going well. Quality parts are quality results. Parts are already easy to get. Ebay is a sham everytime.
Hello, I haven't sent you a email at yout support email address in regards to an amp repair. Great video and thank you!
I have a question at 40:22 regarding the wave on the oscilloscope. If that waveform start to build a square wave, but then immediately shrinks to a spike is that an indication there's some bad gate resistors or maybe caps?
International rectifiers MOSFET'S they are pretty robust components You basically have a DC-DC converter that acts like a switch mode power supply to create the rail voltage for the class A/B amp
Ok I need to send all my 1507 mrvs to you...... Never had any issues with mine until I took them out of my car, they sat for one year and when I tried to reinstall they worked but the power light that should be green now is a flashing red.... anyway I have a total of 4 where do I need to send them to.......
I learned the hard way buying fets from ebay mainly from china!!!!
It is sad they they would put the effort forward to clone cheap parts as it is. I don't get it. They should have stiffer fines for importing fake branded parts.
That is a big boy dam. Si I have an alpine mrd m605 with water damage. Not much visible though as far as damage. What typically goes when a amp gets water damage. Or what needs repair typically? Fixed many electronics over the years but never a car amp.
I have the mrv-t757 that needs repair.. the transistors are all bad and the little resisters are black that are next to them.. a speaker it was running had it's voice coil short out and it took the amp out... How much do you charge to repair the amp? I know it's old but I've had it for a long time and would like to keep it around yet
Where are you located? I have a nearly new, unused but out of warranty, Alpine MRV-F300 that has a channel that is... off. Via RCA pre-amp It doesn't have the punch of the the others. It is more muted with less base.
I have s mrv+f345 that the fan impeller fell into the smo snd got lodged between the crossover and the case,do the little metal tsng on it must have shorted something out i only get static now .could you repair this?
Where could I send a home receiver to be repaired? In Ga myself
Hey how are u doing i have an alpine mrv 1507 i would like u to repair it is very sentimental to me ive had it for 30 years ive watch ur page and i like ur work how could i getvin contact with u
Hey so I have an alpine amp and the power, remote, and ground inputs are broken off. Anyway to replace them? I took apart the amp but it looks like they are soldered
Not unless you have the part to replace it with either from a donor amp or you can scab something in. Not likely you will be able to find a replacement part new.
I open up and see no problem no burned makes, by the look of the inside I see no damage?
I have a v power model no. MRV-M500 I HAVING PROBLEMS WITH THIS AMP WHEN HOOK IT UP EVERY THING LOOKS GOOD GOVTO TRY IT OUT THERE IS NO BLUE LIGHT. BUT A RED SOLID LIGHT STAY ON NEVER BLINKS ANY SUGGESTIONS?
I have an Alpine 1000 and Alpine think it's a 600 W both of them got hooked up backwards how would I go about getting those fixed
Hey there, i had a question, i have a old Alpine amp (3553) and my fuse holder is in bad shape,the prongs are distorted,housing is in sad shape,it needs replacing,the rest of the amp is ok,is Alpine my only hope ? i doubt they would have parts for this old of a amp or could they? thank you for your time.
Alpine will most likely be no help. You can always try but from my experience not worth the effort. I would try to find something you can scab in to replace it. Even if it is internal. It will make for a pain to replace it but if your system is functioning correctly you should never blow it. I will sometime use crimp terminals to scab in fuses. something like this for smaller auto type fuses. www.alliedelec.com/product/3m/fdi10-250q/70233869/?adpos=&scid=scplp70233869&sc_intid=70233869&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInNHTxdm96wIVBI-GCh215ABEEAkYByABEgK68fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds You will need to run some wires from the original fuse location to the connectors.
Thank you for your reply,the fuse holder is off the board,it was in very bad shape, this amp is pretty old,i have a buddy thats a surgeon with a soldering iron, i think what ill do is find a holder that has the 2 cables and ill have him solder it to the board.
The solder is already there and it was a really nice clean break,where the holder pulled out it left 2 nice clean little holes and the board is untouched so it will be a easy fix, i just wanted to go original but finding that holder will be impossible , i called 6 or 7 people today including Alpine and the mighty Pacific,no go there, my best bet will be to either do what i said i was going to do or find a donor that burned up and cabbage on to that holder.
Sir, where do you order your ICs, bridges, tranzies, mosfets, and diodes???? All these electronic component stores in my local area, are closing their doors forever on me. Also, I no longer have a local Radio Shack anymore. I used to buy my electrolytic caps there. The closest Radio Shack to me now, is across the border in Reynosa, Tamaulipas, Mexico.
Even coming back to the United States from Mexico has become a sick joke, even more so because of this pandemic!!!
Any luck with hiphonics amps, and how do I request repair???
Hey I have a mrp m2000 I bought on ebay that man someone hacked up and I think it has some wrong parts got it to turn on but no sound I sent it out to someone and they had it for almost 2 years I get it back doesn't work and screws were loose please if any help lmk
How do we get in contact with you man, im in Virginia and have a Alpine T500 amp not working??? - George
Soooooo I messed up and put the wrong capacitors on my alpine mvr-m2000 when i was trying to repair it. The ones I ordered and installed were 270uf 100v. Turns out I actually needed 1800uf 25v. I tried to power the amp up and the light came on but I got no sound. So I re-opened the amp and thats when I realized that I had installed the wrong caps.. I just ordered the correct caps and will be installing them when they come in. My questions are, would having the wrong caps in cause the "no sound output" and could I have damaged anything else by installing the wrong caps?
Well the capacitance was substantially lower but the voltage was higher. So the caps will not explode but the power supply filtering due to the lower capacitance will be lacking. It is possible that the power supply was not turning on properly or causing a lot of noise in circuits. There is no way I can tell you for sure if it did any damage but I kind of doubt it.
@@The_Active_Region So the power supply not getting powered up fully could be the reason I had no output. Makes sense. I also attempted to test the mosfets and other components but as they are all still in circuit (and I dont know what they are supposed to read because I cant find any schematics for the MPR-M2000) I couldnt really figure out if they were okay. Although just from looking at the board nothing else seems damaged or out of place.
Mosfets usually short when they fail should be easy to find with a meter. Unless they blow apart they will read open. Any weird reading in between is ok in circuit. If it shows a short and then goes away then it is good as the mosfet turned on from testing it.
@@The_Active_Regionstrange question but is there any way I could video chat with you just to show you the readings I'm getting from the fets? The smaller ones are showing fairly consistent readings depending on which direction I test and what legs I probe. But the larger ones (not sure if they are output or power side on this board) are testing .OL when putting positive lead on center leg and negative lead to either side (if that makes sense) but when I put negative lead to center leg and test positive to either side they show a reading. Also 4 of the larger ones show a reading of .002 from outside leg to outside leg either direction.
Que tal amigo buenas tardes amigo quisiera saber dónde puedo reparar un amplificador Alpine clase T de 5 canales
Instead of using a Q-TIP in the bad areas of the heat sink , why not just user emery cloth or a Dremal bit It's probably better to replace the whole unit , the damage is quite severe
Looks like who ever was hammering on it at 2ohm bridged lol.
Are you still repairing alpine 1507
I have multiple amps that I need repaired. Can you help me sir?
Not to be rude- cost of replacement vs. paying a pro like you to repair- can you make a comparison?
Not rude at all. Valid question. Sometimes people fall in love with a specific device. Sometimes there is no suitable replacement in the current market. Sometimes it fits in a specific location or even matches their other equipment that is all the same make that is no longer manufactured.
How can I send you some amps for repair!?
How can I send you my Alpine MRV-F407 for repair, protect mode on, I'm in Georgia
How can I get an amp repair by you.. lmk please I'm being serious
You still fixing these?
Hi....do you have parts for Alpine mrv..1507 V12
By the looks of the damage this amp may have been played below 4ohms bridged.
Possibly unknowingly. It was very common for people to do that. It could have saved thousands of these amps from being tossed out if they were ran at no lower than 4 ohms bridged.
What’s a good replacement for the IC101 (njm 4570HA)? I found adapters to change to a 8 dip dual opamp.
I have one needs work if you would be interested ?
Can you fix my amp?
In this day and age, catastrophic damage like this should not be happening. That is poor design. I don't care what company it is. Poor regulation, and headroom, and protection. You said they keep coming to your bench, and that is enough for me not to buy one. I like your setup and your video. Too bad Alpine didn't get it together on that design. Well I could give as a pass as someone else did the work, but the fact still so much failed otherwise says that is bad design from Alpine to begin with. No excuse for that at all.
The problem is that many people ran these amps at 2 ohms where they are only designed fot 4 ohms bridged. Since these amps survived the last 2 decades people just assume they are 2 ohm stable like most amps these days.
What and where is your contact information I need some work done?