Phil, would you use the same method for filling 10mm gap under window sill's? Love the channel and bought my first airless sprayer on the back of your videos.
Hi, good to here.. please share and spread the P&D word ;) Yes, if the gap is bad. another option.. pack it out with something to back fill, then face fill then sand.
Another nice video phill pretty much the way I do it apart from the lightweight filler I’ve never seemed to get on with it totally agree with you on the pva front
Lightweight filler just skims out the sunken main filler, it dried quick to so can be painted over in no time. Used itbtoday on a few indentation on the walls that you couldn't see until it had a coat of paint onto it, filled them before dinner, touch up after dinner, then Coates everything back up.... A life saver you could call it. Doesn't soak in the paint like a powder filler either, so less likely to show flashing. Spot prime those areas though.
Pretty much how I do it mate… only exception is I have trouble with crazing caulk so to get round that I prime my caulk with 123. Solves that problem when you hit it with your finish coat. Or sometimes if I need something with more of a bonding strength I’ll use a paintable polymer sealant and then prime that. Just ensures I don’t have any crazing over the sealant. Real good primers by zinsser! Take care buddy! Marc.
Hi i have just found your channel and working my way through your videos. I have just finished my city & guilds level 2 P&D but im having trouble with filler flashing on walls ? Also i have filled gaps in lining paper, mist coated filler then 2 coats and the lines are still showing. Any ideas on where im going wrong and how to rectify would be much appreciated x
Welcome aboard! You shouldn't be leaving gaps in lining paper and filling them. Butt joint, once dry you whizz over the lining to lightly see and off anything that may have got under the lining.. it happens.. a grain of sand is like a bowling ball under lining paper. Loads of videos for you to watch. ;)
@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I had a problem with the edges drying out on me although I thought I was putting plenty on the wall (using wallrock) because I was papering over a painted surface should I have done any prep? That would have helped?
No, nothing. One of the reasons I went for it. I also sprayed out some water stains I could see on the ceiling above... Two coats... They've held off too. It does say it stops water stains. I'm going to give two coats of it on some worse water marks in a few weeks. See if it does what it says on the tin.
Phil........why 123+ and not just straightforward 123? I've never used the 123+ and just wondering what the difference is? Never tried the Gardz either.........must give it a go. Cheers Bruv Yorkshire Dave👍👍
123 plus is the next step up over normal 123. The 123plus will also stop water stains, and says on the tin GOOD for stained woodwork. BIN is an option, but stinks when spraying. The 123+ des dry nice being waterbased too. Gardz.. a great problem solving paint..... did i tell you it's not the same as PVA ;) lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Right, I'll give 'em both a go Phil! Oh and by the way, I rarely use PVA......and never with paint!! Keep 'em coming, right!! Cheers Bruv Yorkshire Dave👍👍
Only BIN will stop Knots ... As it's spirit/shellac base (thin with meths) 123plus will stop staining, and it's suitable for stained woodworking like the staircase I did. Coverstain is oil based, but doesn't stop Knots.
If they are using PVA in decorating, it shows you what initially training they've had... Obviously none from anyone who knew. Also they've not been through a college for formal qualifications in p&d. Or they'd know you don't use PVA.
Not necessarily. Different substrates need a different primer.... Before you fill and caulk etc. Bare plaster you do a wash coat of thinned emulsion.. or Gardz. Soft wood will be a different primer to a hard wood or a resinous wood. Just check before you apply a coat of something as to whether it's suitable for the surface it's going on. Hard woods and resinous wood can be tricky... Get it wrong you'll make harder work for yourself. Aluminium leafing primer is normally the one that sorts out most problematic woods.
Thanks for the information Phil Never used the guardz before...I just use Bedec MSP for nearly everything these days. Also surprised you do a final mastic line,then run tape along side.Have had problems with that in the past where I've pulled the mastic away with the tape.Guess you need to let the mastic set for a few days ? I just use red devil filler these days for the final trim to make smooth.Usually only an hour or so waiting time then ready for painting.
It’s good to see pro painters doing well. You need to do one on realistic timings and pricing jobs mate. The amount of jobs I go on when there like so and so said it would only take a day to mist coat+ two full coat a new plastered kitchen and undercoat and gloss the woodwork using oil based paint. I was sitting with me dad in law who’s a plasterer at a pub and there was a wife asked me for a quote she said there’s a kid who’s decorating full houses for £300.
I would of beaded that in 10 minutes, how much time did you spend on that, must be charging big prices to cover that amount of time, anyway it will crack soon enough then what🤔
How would you bead the flush area ? Would look even worse Original plaster boarders want shooting , or joiner for incorrect fitting of stairs Supposed to pack out with a slate batten and slide a board down behind so you get a parallel width to top edge of side strings Pet gate of mine
Phil, would you use the same method for filling 10mm gap under window sill's? Love the channel and bought my first airless sprayer on the back of your videos.
Hi, good to here.. please share and spread the P&D word ;)
Yes, if the gap is bad.
another option.. pack it out with something to back fill, then face fill then sand.
Thanks Phil for another time saving video!
Happy to help
Another nice video phill pretty much the way I do it apart from the lightweight filler I’ve never seemed to get on with it totally agree with you on the pva front
Lightweight filler just skims out the sunken main filler, it dried quick to so can be painted over in no time. Used itbtoday on a few indentation on the walls that you couldn't see until it had a coat of paint onto it, filled them before dinner, touch up after dinner, then Coates everything back up.... A life saver you could call it. Doesn't soak in the paint like a powder filler either, so less likely to show flashing. Spot prime those areas though.
Pretty much how I do it mate… only exception is I have trouble with crazing caulk so to get round that I prime my caulk with 123. Solves that problem when you hit it with your finish coat. Or sometimes if I need something with more of a bonding strength I’ll use a paintable polymer sealant and then prime that. Just ensures I don’t have any crazing over the sealant. Real good primers by zinsser! Take care buddy! Marc.
get some reddecil one time caulk to try, i don't get any problems with that
Spot on about the PVA Phil.👍
Has the foam pushed the plaster boards forward ans that's why there is no edge on that part of the stringer? Or was it already like that?
Always been like it. When it was originally fitted, why wouldn't they line it up right?
Hi i have just found your channel and working my way through your videos. I have just finished my city & guilds level 2 P&D but im having trouble with filler flashing on walls ? Also i have filled gaps in lining paper, mist coated filler then 2 coats and the lines are still showing. Any ideas on where im going wrong and how to rectify would be much appreciated x
Welcome aboard! You shouldn't be leaving gaps in lining paper and filling them. Butt joint, once dry you whizz over the lining to lightly see and off anything that may have got under the lining.. it happens.. a grain of sand is like a bowling ball under lining paper.
Loads of videos for you to watch. ;)
Also, maybe worth you changing your filler.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I use toupret because it's not meant to flash? What would you recommend?
@@nataliehayden8330 good. Presto F is good too
@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I had a problem with the edges drying out on me although I thought I was putting plenty on the wall (using wallrock) because I was papering over a painted surface should I have done any prep? That would have helped?
Hi Phil. You deserve that dream car.. you said you use 123+ on the wood which had a light stain. Any tanning coming back throug.
No, nothing. One of the reasons I went for it.
I also sprayed out some water stains I could see on the ceiling above... Two coats... They've held off too.
It does say it stops water stains.
I'm going to give two coats of it on some worse water marks in a few weeks. See if it does what it says on the tin.
Phil........why 123+ and not just straightforward 123? I've never used the 123+ and just wondering what the difference is? Never tried the Gardz either.........must give it a go.
Cheers Bruv
Yorkshire Dave👍👍
123 plus is the next step up over normal 123. The 123plus will also stop water stains, and says on the tin GOOD for stained woodwork. BIN is an option, but stinks when spraying. The 123+ des dry nice being waterbased too.
Gardz.. a great problem solving paint..... did i tell you it's not the same as PVA ;) lol
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Right, I'll give 'em both a go Phil! Oh and by the way, I rarely use PVA......and never with paint!! Keep 'em coming, right!!
Cheers Bruv
Yorkshire Dave👍👍
Hi Phil does 123 plus hold back the tanning/knots on the woodwork
Cover stain is supposed to
Only BIN will stop Knots ... As it's spirit/shellac base (thin with meths)
123plus will stop staining, and it's suitable for stained woodworking like the staircase I did.
Coverstain is oil based, but doesn't stop Knots.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator I’m glad I use knotting 1st then lol. Sorry for the incorrect info
I hope them 2 farmers of the painting and decorating channel watch this …. They love pva…. The amount of arguments I’ve had with them!!!👍great vid pal
If they are using PVA in decorating, it shows you what initially training they've had... Obviously none from anyone who knew. Also they've not been through a college for formal qualifications in p&d. Or they'd know you don't use PVA.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator exactly👍
@@stephenevans1833 you need to give me a link, I'll see how they cut the wheat over the summer.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator can’t do technology 😱but you commented on one of the videos on how to put up plaster coving ….. or how not to🤣🤣
@@stephenevans1833 oh... him lol.... think he's sponsored by a SprayFoam company lol
Phil how do you reckon 123+ on gloss vs BIN great vids cheers
Sand down the gloss.. then 123+.
I see no need to use BIN.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator Are we talking about oil based or water based gloss though?
Brilliant Phil, entertaining as usual mate 👏
Cheers. Much appreciated.
I think the next video might not entertain everyone.. it might touch a near and upset a few.
When you say prime everything before filling you mean a white paint primer or use zinsser guardz ??
Not necessarily.
Different substrates need a different primer.... Before you fill and caulk etc.
Bare plaster you do a wash coat of thinned emulsion.. or Gardz.
Soft wood will be a different primer to a hard wood or a resinous wood.
Just check before you apply a coat of something as to whether it's suitable for the surface it's going on.
Hard woods and resinous wood can be tricky... Get it wrong you'll make harder work for yourself.
Aluminium leafing primer is normally the one that sorts out most problematic woods.
Thanks for the information Phil
Never used the guardz before...I just use Bedec MSP for nearly everything these days.
Also surprised you do a final mastic line,then run tape along side.Have had problems with that in the past where I've pulled the mastic away with the tape.Guess you need to let the mastic set for a few days ? I just use red devil filler these days for the final trim to make smooth.Usually only an hour or so waiting time then ready for painting.
It’s good to see pro painters doing well. You need to do one on realistic timings and pricing jobs mate. The amount of jobs I go on when there like so and so said it would only take a day to mist coat+ two full coat a new plastered kitchen and undercoat and gloss the woodwork using oil based paint. I was sitting with me dad in law who’s a plasterer at a pub and there was a wife asked me for a quote she said there’s a kid who’s decorating full houses for £300.
Noted! Btw ... You don't want any customer who only wants to pay £300 a whole house.... Aim high. :)
With the Woodwork. You
You used 123+ did you use an undercoat or strait on top with the topcoat over 123+
two coats of 123plus on the wood stain, when dry, nibbed down again.. the two coats of Everal Aqua 40.
came up great.
@@ProfessionalPainterDecorator what preparation did you do before applying the first coat of 123+ any knotting solution
@@richardloze5994 no, it wasnt a knotty wood.
@@richardloze5994 fingers crossed the 123+ hold back any staining of the wood ;)
I would of beaded that in 10 minutes, how much time did you spend on that, must be charging big prices to cover that amount of time, anyway it will crack soon enough then what🤔
Cracks are good for business ;)
The sausage foil caulk is far more flexible than standard caulk
How would you bead the flush area ?
Would look even worse
Original plaster boarders want shooting , or joiner for incorrect fitting of stairs
Supposed to pack out with a slate batten and slide a board down behind so you get a parallel width to top edge of side strings
Pet gate of mine
@@richardmcdougall233 is it interior and exterior like the RedDevil flexible caulk?
@@richardmcdougall233 does that mean there's even more chance of the paint cracking on it?
another good un Phil Lad , JF
Foam is the best
you saw the first part to this video then?