I love this series ... craftsmanship is often overlooked because of price, but these specialized skills are worth their price if you appreciate a finely skilled job. Keep'em coming!
I have always hand scraped and sanded my long gun stocks (not the checkering) and used boot oil/grease/paste. It leaves a non reflective, easy to hide scratches, nicks etc finish that is impervious to water and other stains. Super easy to do and inexpensive too. Really good post TIB.
Just finished refinishing my grandpas old rifle stock with boiled linseed oil. I am not a patient man, but I got through it. Lost track of how many coats. The finish matches the nicely worn appearance of the barrel and other metal parts. Thanks to you and Kurt, I used the knife scraping technique. Amazing how easy that is, just be careful around the detailed areas. Finished off with a coat of paste wax.
Great stuff Rex, and Kurt seems to be the type of individual that every younger person should listen to and learn from. We will always need good knowledgeable people to fill the void when he's not with us anymore.
I've been watching you for a long time and I have learned a lot from you even with reloading ammo I'm pleased.Now I've received my M1-GARAND from the CMP another project for me I do love the boiled linspeed oil .25 yrs. ago I started this on my m1-a.now watching this starting with a very old rifle stock I'm impressed even steam the dents too what a new look dents are gone my 1943 Springfield m-1 Garand looks extra sweet.Rex this young guy is a specialist THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS 🇺🇸👍🏼 THANKS KURT 🇺🇸..
I haven't watched all of this series, but those that I have watched are great. I want to make sure that I eventually watch them all, so I have just subscribed. If you really like guns and want to refinish/fix one or more, this is a must watch series!
It's a twist of fate that you posted this as tomorrow I pick up something to seal my first refinishing project on my Bulgarian ak74 wood. Lol! Thanks a lot man:)
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Not sure if I could bring myself to sand thru original checkering. Having just learned how to steam out dings and dents with a washcloth and an iron, thats what I would try first lol.
TiborasaurusRex Thank you for posting this series. And thank you Kurt for demonstrating your techniques! I've watched the majority of the vidoes multiple times. In the middle of refinishing a Remington 514 22LR rifle stock at the moment. First coat of BLO on this afternoon! Still need to get the barrel reblued, and the bolt polished. Both have some pitting. Former owner(s) didn't take of this fine little tack driver. I bought it a few years back(shhh, on CL!) for $50 or so, can't remember exactly. But it shoots well, just looked like it'd been ridden hard and put away wet. Sad, sad sad. I plan on passing this on to my children one day(if the good Lord should grant me some one day!).. God Bless
I use boiled linseed oil on my axes. Im an avid shooter as well too so I appreciate this video man. Glad I have brothers like you here that haven't taken to "the ways" of society
dare colbert not that I'm aware of. I know my dad uses olive oil on his. He doesn't take as much pride in his as I do SOME of mine. He uses the heck out of his lol. But hands down the color looks great on boiled linseed oil compared to anything else I've seen. The more you use it over time the better it looks.
Laurel Mountain Forge permalyn sealer gets deep into the pores it's an Oil Modified polyurethane that unlike bl0 is completely waterproof and can be made to look like an oil finish Tru oil or Chambers oil can be put on top of it to get a glossy look. Most Master stock makers use some sort of a permalyn finish.
In Holmes County there is a store call Keim Hardware. It is an hour from my house. They have an exotic wood section. In that section the have the amazing maple gun stock blanks that look like enough wood for 2-3 stocks. I really want to learn how to inlet a rifle stock. Been practicing on cheap poplar till I work up the nerve to try it on a real rifle stock.
Will boiled linseed oil make birch or maple darker with more coats? I have a old 1968 winchester cooey model 370 single shot and sanded down correctly and followed your video to a tee (except need more coats) and for some reason the forearm is orange and stock is yellow. Don't know what to do next. Any advice would be appreciated.
There's a lot of custom stock makers out there who wouldn't agree that BLO is a good stock finish to use. It has many disadvantages and of course the linseed is not boiled but is a chemical process.
Just a thought that came to mind. I'll assume that the factory would know how much pressure to use when applying this method of checkering... BUT!! would this, or couldn't it lead to stress factures in the wood. Not being good for sure. Progress is most often a lazy way out of not doing something right.
I´m refinishing my Weihrauch HW35 Export with walnut stock. I made all steps you explained with grain filling;afetr 3 coats with no sanding i still do not get that shine on my stock. What do i do wrong?
I'd love to have such a warm friendly finish on my gun stalks and tool handles, but how does BLO only hold up in field conditions over time? Say in shotguns in waterfowling conditions? I can't imagine stalks like these, hunted like I'm used to, staying looking very pretty after gripped by dirty wet hands, or after an inadvertent caking of mud in the checkering. I imagine the wood itself has gotta get grimy and stained. Also, BLO is notorious for dark staining from mold over time. I have vintage wooden woodworking planes that testify to this fact. Now the coats here are light and not deep penetrating, and perhaps the mold issues may only come from wood soaked in BLO? I'd love to know what you think.
As a woodworker, any time I use BLO it is almost always in conjunction with a finishing paste wax. I have some jointer mallets that I finished this way and I have no issues with durability.
i just sanded down a 10/22 to bare wood did two coats of stain and when dry did one coat of boiled linseed oil ..how long am i suppose to wait before handing and do next coat?
+NovaMan 350 uhh, what? What kind of linseed oil are you using? Linseed oil dries by oxidation and if you don't wait 1-3 days AT LEAST it will build up and get gummy
I've just watched a few stock finishing videos. Nobody has wiped off excess stain after (i forget now) 5 minutes or so and re stain it till I get the color I want. These other people just coat it on and let it dry. I think my method is right. Also with the oil you let it soak and cure a little 5-10 minutes before it gets too thick and sticky and wipe it with lint free cloth. Actually buff it smooth. I believe 24 hour between buffed coats of oil to dry for next. It works better with out excess oil gobbed all over the place.
What about the 80's era Brownings which have a really hard and glossy finish? Is there a way that can be stripped off? Also, do people mix in mineral oil with the BLO to get it to better soak in and dry?
question. I just bought this Ross 92 which has a beautiful stock on it, dark, good grain. Only one I've really seen this good. it was a little dull so the gun shop guy put some Rem oil on it, before I took it home, and it really made it look good. Is this a good thing, bad thing or indifferent? I didn't know at the time as he did it real quick. if not good, what should I do. the stock is dark and nice and I just want to put a coat of protective oil or something on it. Linseed Etc. Do I need to clean the stock...get that rem-oil off. He put a very light spray and just wiped it off quickly.
The fact that he coated it with rem oil once probably doesn't matter. I wouldnt use those types of oils for finished wood stocks. I wipe mine with a ballistol wipe every time I clean my firearm. Some people use paste wax. And my understanding is it's a little better than oils.
i see this is an old video ,but i thought i would give this a try....i have a ww2 rifle that i sanded and i want to use colors for the first coat, i was going to vacum the sawdust powder out of the pores and "paint "some food coloring into the thirsty wood so it goes deep into the grain before a coating of melted wax ,then linseed oil.......my question is ,do you think the food coloring will lose its hues ?...should i use inorganic colors?.....i had heard that water colors first would give a very deep sink into the wood for a 3 dimensional camouflage of sorts
hello, very nice work! I'm in the process of building a Polish AK47 and am having a very hard time finding out what they originally used to finish their furniture. I've read that it can be pine tar,blo,(boiled linseed oil) tung oil, or even shellac. Obviously this won't be a show rifle/ safe Queen or anything but I would like to use the correct product to finish the wood. I've even seen where guys use red food coloring or rit dye. Usually the Russian AK's have the reddish look so I'm not overly concerned about that. Any idea on what they might have used or where I could maybe find out? Again, very nice work.
If you can remove the original finish with grain alcohol it's shellac. Shellac was often used because it was easy for the European arsenals to strip off to make repairs. If the Pols used the same red tint as the russians you will need to look for a red trans tint to add to your mix until you get the color you want. Don't buy pre mix shellac at the stores, get denatured alcohol and shellac flakes and mix your own. It's easy to make up when you need it and very easy to apply. Boiled linseed oil was often used by the US and UK. It's also not the same as the stuff you buy in stores. Enfield stocks were dunked in real boiling linseed oil every 6-12 months as part of their routine service. Stocks would develop a red patina from the fatty acids which are absent in store bought BLO.
Dear, Sir. Will the cobalt salt in the boiled linseed oil toxic and bad for human health? Since we gonna frequently touch the wood stock, so I'm wondering if the cobalt residue stick to the wood stock gonna be bad for our health.
Love the videos, my only disagreement is with the linseed oil. Linseed oil can take literal years and in some cases decades to dry properly, it also has a bad tendency to bleed or seep out during hot weather making the surface slick and oily.
When I was ready to buy my first center fire bolt action rifle in the early '70s, I couldn't stand the look of the impressed checkering on the Winchester Model 70 and Remington 700. Fortunately, about that time, Ruger came out with their Model 77, which had NO checkering. That was preferable to me so I bought one (SN: 000165).
@@robertbrandywine that’s the only thing with M77’s they have great actions but lousy accuracy as a rule.. It still would’ve been cool to hang onto an iconic rifle like the M77 with such a low serial number. I have a Savage 110 with a low 4 digit serial number in 270 Winchester...
Good God man!!!!! Thanks!!!!!!I have been beating myself up about an old 1916 Stock I have on a .308 Mauser....Its Black Walnut.....Beautiful wood I gotta little work that still needs to be done But I have stripped and cleaned it....And have Linseed oil.....But I have been wrestling with should I stain it......Truthfully I did not want to....But some others have been pushing towards it.....Now I know that raw wood is best....Of course with linseed oil........YES!!!!!......To be honest REX should be a SILENT partner.....Sorry Rex......But I do understand you do ask pertinent Questions....
Me too But i dont want linseed near my stoch its light and dark mixed shades .. the linseed reacts with uv light and goes an horrible yellowy colour , its ok if you have very dark wood like these chaps . But for a light stock its a no no
I gott this stuff called double boiled linseed oil and it sucks ass really bad. I need to buy some tung oil again . Ill get boiled linseed oil next time.
I absolutely hate a spray or brush on/ rub on lacquer finish, I have many old parts gun with this type of finish. The down sides are many, it just is not the right finish for the uses a rifle will endur. As to the raw linseed, boiled linseed, tung oil argument. Correct me if I am wrong, but are they not just the same thing? With the only difference being additives? Such as boiled linseed oil just being linseed oil heated up and having leads and other stuff added to help it dry faster then it is filtered better to get some more of the fats from the linseed out. The tung oil is basically the same but with a couple more oils added and a drier like japan drier added. The info I just wrote is just off the top of my head and is probably not correct in its fullest at all. But to just make a point from observations, they all look very close to the same thing when finished. I don't think I know anyone who could tell which is which once a rifle has had one of these finishes applied for a long time. So why the big fuss over which is correct for this rifle and that, when they get you to the same finish in the end? An aside note, truoil is definitely a different finish from the above, and I can see the difference just by appearance. The truoil dose look great when multiple coats are built up and wet sanded smooth and buffed out, kind of gives it a lacquer appearance but is not nearly as brittle and actually seems to seal the wood fibers by soaking in as opposed to modern spray lacquer, which seems to be just a spray on clear plastic coating. That just forms a clear coat over the wood, and dose not seem to bind with the wood, which is probably why it chipps off so easily, and why the wood exposed by the chip is often dry and unprotected.
Truoil is a varnish. Store brand linseed oils, raw or boiled, are processed to remove fatty acids to keep from spoiling. The downside is without fatty acids the wood will never develop a rich red patina as it ages.
Linseed oil and tung oil, which functionally very similar, come from very different plants. Tung oil comes tung trees and linseed oil comes from flax. "Tung Oil Finish" on the other hand, usually has little to no tung oil in it.
I've heard that using BLO will cause the stock to sweat when shot or on a hot day. Is this true? Is raw linseed oil a better option, or is there something to put over the BLO that will prevent it from sweating out?
kyle john I have never hard of BLO sweating out. Perhaps it was applied too thick, or wasn't allowed to dry between coats, Never use raw linseed oil on a stock. I have only used BLO and have always got great results. It is important to apply very thin coats and be sure they are completely dry before applying another coat. I also never put anything else on over the oil finish. Thanks for the comment and sorry to be so late responding...been real busy. Kurt
Well, I've heard from proponents on both sides of the debate, and I don't claim personal experience and expertise, but from what I've read I'd prefer tung oil over linseed oil. Linseed oil may produce the prettiest finish, but tung oil is also a classic US military finish not far behind in attractiveness, and it is much more resistant to water. For a wallhanger or range gun I'd go with linseed, but for field guns I'd go with tung oil. Also rather than boiled linseed oil, I'd prefer the harder to find raw linseed oil. It doesn't have the additives to make it dry faster, but it is more traditionally beautiful as it ages, developing a red patina, and aesthetics are important to a rifle you're having finished in linseed oil. It's important to note that finding real tung oil and raw linseed oil, the good stuff, can take some looking nowadays.
+Paelorian What you said. Tung oil for a field gun. Formby's has little to NO tung oil in it. 100% tung oil exists but you need to look online and read the fine print.
The linseed oils you buy in the stores, boiled or raw, are stripped of fatty acids and have polymers etc added. They have nothing to do with past military firearm finishes. The lack of fatty acids mean the wood will never develop a rich red patina as it ages. The worst thing you can do is refinish an original military stock. If my stocks come with the original finish they stay original, period.
The polymers or thinnner that are in today's linseed and tung oil are there to make this workable. That old timey stuff took days maybe weeks to cure each layer. It is like thick tree sap. ( i could be wrong here, I don't recall using raw linseed personally. The modern ones are thinned and this thinner evaporates out in 15-20 minutes and allows the oil to soak in and dry (cure) in a reasonable time. So I hear.
Well i just did some research. Looks like you buy on Amazon or whereever you can find it, 100% tung oil. This the first layer and start from there. With turpentine or thinner. that's as far as I got so far. Also about $18- $20 for 16 and I saw one at 32 oz. for $20 i think. I think this the way I will do my next project.
A friend of mine hunted in a wet environment when he came home his Gunstock was white from the water seeping into the wood he would have to thoroughly dry it and applied more linseed oil it's not a waterproof finish at all.
For people refinishing stocks, don't sand, *strip.* The factory already sanded the stock to its final dimensions. If you can't steam a dent out, leave it. Surplus military guns are supposed to have character. Buy a new sporting rifle if you want pretty. Also don't remove the patina. If it linseed oil was used, the stuff in the store does not contain fatty acids and will not turn the wood dark red with age.
You're going to have to sand with some rough grits to change dimensions noticeably. Never had a problem with it, and all dimensions differ from stock to stock, despite being the same model. You have to be careful around the action, though.
Well I've seen plenty of stocks with corners rounded off and buttplates wider than the buttstock. They didn't get that way without sanding... I can often tell a refinished Swiss rifle from an un-refinished one. I can usually tell if it was the arsenal that refinished it or bubba. Bubba loves sand paper and doesn't know what shellac is. I never play with the wood inside where the action fits. Shouldn't be a reason too. Beeswax w/carnauba wax on unfinished areas should be enough to slow changes to the wood from humidity.
@@Foche_T._Schitt LOL, I put a tung oil finish on my K31... I know very well what shellac is, but I put tung oil on it because that's what I like. I'm not at all concerned about the collector's value, that damn stock had been kicked by so many hobnails that it looked like beavers had chewed it and between the holes and the cosmoline it was unpleasant to touch (and there wasn't any shellac left on it, if there ever was). That said, I was, however, pleasantly surprised at how many of the dents steamed out (I didn't fill the ones that wouldn't come out... even though I didn't want a "grody" rifle, I did want to leave some character.
Rex we think the world of you love your old stuff too !!
Excellent checkering style and a great refinish for that young mans rifle.
Absolutely A true craftsman, Very skilled man!!!
I love this series ... craftsmanship is often overlooked because of price, but these specialized skills are worth their price if you appreciate a finely skilled job. Keep'em coming!
I have always hand scraped and sanded my long gun stocks (not the checkering) and used boot oil/grease/paste. It leaves a non reflective, easy to hide scratches, nicks etc finish that is impervious to water and other stains. Super easy to do and inexpensive too. Really good post TIB.
Just finished refinishing my grandpas old rifle stock with boiled linseed oil. I am not a patient man, but I got through it. Lost track of how many coats. The finish matches the nicely worn appearance of the barrel and other metal parts. Thanks to you and Kurt, I used the knife scraping technique. Amazing how easy that is, just be careful around the detailed areas. Finished off with a coat of paste wax.
Great stuff Rex, and Kurt seems to be the type of individual that every younger person should listen to and learn from. We will always need good knowledgeable people to fill the void when he's not with us anymore.
I've been watching you for a long time and I have learned a lot from you even with reloading ammo I'm pleased.Now I've received my M1-GARAND from the CMP another project for me I do love the boiled linspeed oil .25 yrs. ago I started this on my m1-a.now watching this starting with a very old rifle stock I'm impressed even steam the dents too what a new look dents are gone my 1943 Springfield m-1 Garand looks extra sweet.Rex this young guy is a specialist THANKS FOR YOUR VIDEOS 🇺🇸👍🏼 THANKS KURT 🇺🇸..
I haven't watched all of this series, but those that I have watched are great. I want to make sure that I eventually watch them all, so I have just subscribed. If you really like guns and want to refinish/fix one or more, this is a must watch series!
I'd love to be around this man for a few months and learn as much as I can
You only need a few hrs. This isn't rocket science
I could listen to guys like him all day long. Great video Rex.
Love the impressed checkering of the Winchester model 70
Gotta love old world craftsmanship--nothing compares. Especially these days.
It's a twist of fate that you posted this as tomorrow I pick up something to seal my first refinishing project on my Bulgarian ak74 wood. Lol! Thanks a lot man:)
I do have to admit they are beautiful gun stocks.
Converted to Linseed oil when I Refinished a Brown Bess. Real craftsmen 👍
I put my 1st coat of blo on a sporterized O3A3 today . It looks great already . After I'm done I'm going to refin my moms old 336 Marlin .
Very impressed! Really enjoy the craftsmanship Kurt.
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That has to be the prettiest ADL I've ever seen .
Not sure if I could bring myself to sand thru original checkering. Having just learned how to steam out dings and dents with a washcloth and an iron, thats what I would try first lol.
Pressed checkering is bound to crush the wood fibers, which means steaming wouldn't do a whole lot to fix it.
TiborasaurusRex
Thank you for posting this series. And thank you Kurt for demonstrating your techniques! I've watched the majority of the vidoes multiple times. In the middle of refinishing a Remington 514 22LR rifle stock at the moment. First coat of BLO on this afternoon! Still need to get the barrel reblued, and the bolt polished. Both have some pitting. Former owner(s) didn't take of this fine little tack driver. I bought it a few years back(shhh, on CL!) for $50 or so, can't remember exactly. But it shoots well, just looked like it'd been ridden hard and put away wet. Sad, sad sad. I plan on passing this on to my children one day(if the good Lord should grant me some one day!)..
God Bless
I use boiled linseed oil on my axes. Im an avid shooter as well too so I appreciate this video man. Glad I have brothers like you here that haven't taken to "the ways" of society
+Mike Halverson Is their any major benefit of linseed oil over something like Danish oil?
dare colbert not that I'm aware of. I know my dad uses olive oil on his. He doesn't take as much pride in his as I do SOME of mine. He uses the heck out of his lol. But hands down the color looks great on boiled linseed oil compared to anything else I've seen. The more you use it over time the better it looks.
On an M-1 Garand, RAW linseed oil is recommended. What are the differences between boiled & raw linseed oil?
Would steaming the compressed area of the wood benefit prior to checkering?
Laurel Mountain Forge permalyn sealer gets deep into the pores it's an Oil Modified polyurethane that unlike bl0 is completely waterproof and can be made to look like an oil finish Tru oil or Chambers oil can be put on top of it to get a glossy look. Most Master stock makers use some sort of a permalyn finish.
In Holmes County there is a store call Keim Hardware. It is an hour from my house. They have an exotic wood section. In that section the have the amazing maple gun stock blanks that look like enough wood for 2-3 stocks. I really want to learn how to inlet a rifle stock. Been practicing on cheap poplar till I work up the nerve to try it on a real rifle stock.
I've started using linseed oil on all my rifle stocks. So much easier to get great results.
Hello, i am using Debart checkering cutters but lose their edge very quickly. Are there any other cutters that last longer their sharpness?
I always really dig your guitar intro, love it.
Will boiled linseed oil make birch or maple darker with more coats? I have a old 1968 winchester cooey model 370 single shot and sanded down correctly and followed your video to a tee (except need more coats) and for some reason the forearm is orange and stock is yellow. Don't know what to do next. Any advice would be appreciated.
I like your videos and in each one, we get to hear just enough of your music to want to hear more. Any way to listen to more? Download it? Buy it?
Crazy, a Remington $175 ADL from the 80s , sells for over $1000 today since Remington went bankrupt. Those stocks looked amazing.
There's a lot of custom stock makers out there who wouldn't agree that BLO is a good stock finish to use. It has many disadvantages and of course the linseed is not boiled but is a chemical process.
You are correct permalyn is the finish of the Masters
What brand of boiled linseed oil would you recommend?
Nice!! Taught me something new :) thanks so much
In The Background 777
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Just a thought that came to mind. I'll assume that the factory would know how much pressure to use when applying this method of checkering... BUT!! would this, or couldn't it lead to stress factures in the wood. Not being good for sure. Progress is most often a lazy way out of not doing something right.
I´m refinishing my Weihrauch HW35 Export with walnut stock. I made all steps you explained with grain filling;afetr 3 coats with no sanding i still do not get that shine on my stock. What do i do wrong?
Takes more like 6 coats to get an actual shine
I totally agree with Wildman
I'd love to have such a warm friendly finish on my gun stalks and tool handles, but how does BLO only hold up in field conditions over time? Say in shotguns in waterfowling conditions? I can't imagine stalks like these, hunted like I'm used to, staying looking very pretty after gripped by dirty wet hands, or after an inadvertent caking of mud in the checkering. I imagine the wood itself has gotta get grimy and stained. Also, BLO is notorious for dark staining from mold over time. I have vintage wooden woodworking planes that testify to this fact. Now the coats here are light and not deep penetrating, and perhaps the mold issues may only come from wood soaked in BLO? I'd love to know what you think.
Kurtis Johnson I know it holds up on shovels and axes just fine and that much rougher conditions then most gun stocks with ever go through
As a woodworker, any time I use BLO it is almost always in conjunction with a finishing paste wax. I have some jointer mallets that I finished this way and I have no issues with durability.
what do you do if 1 side of the stock is sun bleached and appears way lighter than the other even after getting down to "bare" wood ?
+Bruce Murphy I would add a few extra coats of oil on that side until it turn the same color.
i just sanded down a 10/22 to bare wood did two coats of stain and when dry did one coat of boiled linseed oil ..how long am i suppose to wait before handing and do next coat?
+Brian Putorti about 24hrs
No more than 20 minutes between coating the rifle. Linseed oil dries pretty fast.
+NovaMan 350 uhh, what? What kind of linseed oil are you using? Linseed oil dries by oxidation and if you don't wait 1-3 days AT LEAST it will build up and get gummy
Until it's dry.
I've just watched a few stock finishing videos. Nobody has wiped off excess stain after (i forget now) 5 minutes or so and re stain it till I get the color I want. These other people just coat it on and let it dry. I think my method is right. Also with the oil you let it soak and cure a little 5-10 minutes before it gets too thick and sticky and wipe it with lint free cloth. Actually buff it smooth. I believe 24 hour between buffed coats of oil to dry for next. It works better with out excess oil gobbed all over the place.
What about the 80's era Brownings which have a really hard and glossy finish? Is there a way that can be stripped off? Also, do people mix in mineral oil with the BLO to get it to better soak in and dry?
I refinished an old Auto 5 and I used the foaming spray Citristrip and Tru-oil it was super easy and turned out great
question. I just bought this Ross 92 which has a beautiful stock on it, dark, good grain. Only one I've really seen this good. it was a little dull so the gun shop guy put some Rem oil on it, before I took it home, and it really made it look good. Is this a good thing, bad thing or indifferent? I didn't know at the time as he did it real quick. if not good, what should I do. the stock is dark and nice and I just want to put a coat of protective oil or something on it. Linseed Etc. Do I need to clean the stock...get that rem-oil off. He put a very light spray and just wiped it off quickly.
The fact that he coated it with rem oil once probably doesn't matter. I wouldnt use those types of oils for finished wood stocks. I wipe mine with a ballistol wipe every time I clean my firearm. Some people use paste wax. And my understanding is it's a little better than oils.
i see this is an old video ,but i thought i would give this a try....i have a ww2 rifle that i sanded and i want to use colors for the first coat, i was going to vacum the sawdust powder out of the pores and "paint "some food coloring into the thirsty wood so it goes deep into the grain before a coating of melted wax ,then linseed oil.......my question is ,do you think the food coloring will lose its hues ?...should i use inorganic colors?.....i had heard that water colors first would give a very deep sink into the wood for a 3 dimensional camouflage of sorts
Ww2 rifle, leave it the fuck alone
hello, very nice work! I'm in the process of building a Polish AK47 and am having a very hard time finding out what they originally used to finish their furniture. I've read that it can be pine tar,blo,(boiled linseed oil) tung oil, or even shellac. Obviously this won't be a show rifle/ safe Queen or anything but I would like to use the correct product to finish the wood. I've even seen where guys use red food coloring or rit dye. Usually the Russian AK's have the reddish look so I'm not overly concerned about that. Any idea on what they might have used or where I could maybe find out? Again, very nice work.
If you can remove the original finish with grain alcohol it's shellac. Shellac was often used because it was easy for the European arsenals to strip off to make repairs. If the Pols used the same red tint as the russians you will need to look for a red trans tint to add to your mix until you get the color you want. Don't buy pre mix shellac at the stores, get denatured alcohol and shellac flakes and mix your own. It's easy to make up when you need it and very easy to apply.
Boiled linseed oil was often used by the US and UK. It's also not the same as the stuff you buy in stores. Enfield stocks were dunked in real boiling linseed oil every 6-12 months as part of their routine service. Stocks would develop a red patina from the fatty acids which are absent in store bought BLO.
I use B.L.O. for my wood rifles and wont use anything else, best care you can give with a beautiful finish shine.
Dear, Sir. Will the cobalt salt in the boiled linseed oil toxic and bad for human health? Since we gonna frequently touch the wood stock, so I'm wondering if the cobalt residue stick to the wood stock gonna be bad for our health.
some boiled linseed doesn't have dryers so you may want use that instead
Is there any difference between Brownells BLO and BLO from the hardware store?
Probably brounells has the word gun on it and therefore cost more?...
I can't get a great shine like yours. Mine are smooth, but not shiney.
takes a few coats to get shiney took me 6 coats of Tru-Oil (Linseed oil based) on my M1903A3 stock that I refinished.
Do you know if Kleanstrip or Crown brands of oil are any good, I've used Park's but they no longer in business.
Baileygeep7 Crown is no good in my experience, but I've heard good things about Klean.
Love the videos, my only disagreement is with the linseed oil. Linseed oil can take literal years and in some cases decades to dry properly, it also has a bad tendency to bleed or seep out during hot weather making the surface slick and oily.
Michael Baltezore that means you put too much on
I like the way he said cli-mat
can you put linseed oil over tung oil. this is for an M1
***** That could work, but they are very similar, only difference is BLO gets darker and redder with age. I actually prefer tung oil.
When I was ready to buy my first center fire bolt action rifle in the early '70s, I couldn't stand the look of the impressed checkering on the Winchester Model 70 and Remington 700. Fortunately, about that time, Ruger came out with their Model 77, which had NO checkering. That was preferable to me so I bought one (SN: 000165).
What caliber is your model 77?
@@tosainu1 It was a .308 WCF. I sold it decades ago as it wasn't as accurate as I would have liked.
@@robertbrandywine that’s the only thing with M77’s they have great actions but lousy accuracy as a rule.. It still would’ve been cool to hang onto an iconic rifle like the M77 with such a low serial number. I have a Savage 110 with a low 4 digit serial number in 270 Winchester...
Great vid.
Where does he buy his gun stocks? Can you recommend a company I am looking for quality like these fine stocks.
Try boyds
Good God man!!!!! Thanks!!!!!!I have been beating myself up about an old 1916 Stock I have on a .308 Mauser....Its Black Walnut.....Beautiful wood I gotta little work that still needs to be done But I have stripped and cleaned it....And have Linseed oil.....But I have been wrestling with should I stain it......Truthfully I did not want to....But some others have been pushing towards it.....Now I know that raw wood is best....Of course with linseed oil........YES!!!!!......To be honest REX should be a SILENT partner.....Sorry Rex......But I do understand you do ask pertinent Questions....
Me too But i dont want linseed near my stoch its light and dark mixed shades .. the linseed reacts with uv light and goes an horrible yellowy colour , its ok if you have very dark wood like these chaps . But for a light stock its a no no
quick question should you use wood sealer before applying boiled linseed oil
I would say no, boiled linseed is the sealer.
I gott this stuff called double boiled linseed oil and it sucks ass really bad. I need to buy some tung oil again . Ill get boiled linseed oil next time.
I absolutely hate a spray or brush on/ rub on lacquer finish, I have many old parts gun with this type of finish. The down sides are many, it just is not the right finish for the uses a rifle will endur. As to the raw linseed, boiled linseed, tung oil argument. Correct me if I am wrong, but are they not just the same thing? With the only difference being additives? Such as boiled linseed oil just being linseed oil heated up and having leads and other stuff added to help it dry faster then it is filtered better to get some more of the fats from the linseed out. The tung oil is basically the same but with a couple more oils added and a drier like japan drier added. The info I just wrote is just off the top of my head and is probably not correct in its fullest at all. But to just make a point from observations, they all look very close to the same thing when finished. I don't think I know anyone who could tell which is which once a rifle has had one of these finishes applied for a long time. So why the big fuss over which is correct for this rifle and that, when they get you to the same finish in the end? An aside note, truoil is definitely a different finish from the above, and I can see the difference just by appearance. The truoil dose look great when multiple coats are built up and wet sanded smooth and buffed out, kind of gives it a lacquer appearance but is not nearly as brittle and actually seems to seal the wood fibers by soaking in as opposed to modern spray lacquer, which seems to be just a spray on clear plastic coating. That just forms a clear coat over the wood, and dose not seem to bind with the wood, which is probably why it chipps off so easily, and why the wood exposed by the chip is often dry and unprotected.
Truoil is a varnish. Store brand linseed oils, raw or boiled, are processed to remove fatty acids to keep from spoiling. The downside is without fatty acids the wood will never develop a rich red patina as it ages.
Linseed oil and tung oil, which functionally very similar, come from very different plants. Tung oil comes tung trees and linseed oil comes from flax. "Tung Oil Finish" on the other hand, usually has little to no tung oil in it.
also it feels more original than using schelac or stains.
I've heard that using BLO will cause the stock to sweat when shot or on a hot day. Is this true? Is raw linseed oil a better option, or is there something to put over the BLO that will prevent it from sweating out?
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kyle john I have never hard of BLO sweating out. Perhaps it was applied too thick, or wasn't allowed to dry between coats, Never use raw linseed oil on a stock. I have only used BLO and have always got great results. It is important to apply very thin coats and be sure they are completely dry before applying another coat. I also never put anything else on over the oil finish. Thanks for the comment and sorry to be so late responding...been real busy.
Kurt
What is this guys contact info
His cell phone is in the description
Well, I've heard from proponents on both sides of the debate, and I don't claim personal experience and expertise, but from what I've read I'd prefer tung oil over linseed oil. Linseed oil may produce the prettiest finish, but tung oil is also a classic US military finish not far behind in attractiveness, and it is much more resistant to water. For a wallhanger or range gun I'd go with linseed, but for field guns I'd go with tung oil. Also rather than boiled linseed oil, I'd prefer the harder to find raw linseed oil. It doesn't have the additives to make it dry faster, but it is more traditionally beautiful as it ages, developing a red patina, and aesthetics are important to a rifle you're having finished in linseed oil. It's important to note that finding real tung oil and raw linseed oil, the good stuff, can take some looking nowadays.
+Paelorian
What you said. Tung oil for a field gun. Formby's has little to NO tung oil in it. 100% tung oil exists but you need to look online and read the fine print.
The linseed oils you buy in the stores, boiled or raw, are stripped of fatty acids and have polymers etc added. They have nothing to do with past military firearm finishes. The lack of fatty acids mean the wood will never develop a rich red patina as it ages. The worst thing you can do is refinish an original military stock. If my stocks come with the original finish they stay original, period.
DC. What brands of linseed oil do not have the fatty acids removed. What brand would you use?
The polymers or thinnner that are in today's linseed and tung oil are there to make this workable. That old timey stuff took days maybe weeks to cure each layer. It is like thick tree sap. ( i could be wrong here, I don't recall using raw linseed personally. The modern ones are thinned and this thinner evaporates out in 15-20 minutes and allows the oil to soak in and dry (cure) in a reasonable time. So I hear.
Well i just did some research. Looks like you buy on Amazon or whereever you can find it, 100% tung oil. This the first layer and start from there. With turpentine or thinner. that's as far as I got so far. Also about $18- $20 for 16 and I saw one at 32 oz. for $20 i think. I think this the way I will do my next project.
A friend of mine hunted in a wet environment when he came home his Gunstock was white from the water seeping into the wood he would have to thoroughly dry it and applied more linseed oil it's not a waterproof finish at all.
Sounds like auto detailing. Take the paint down to bare paint. Bring it back in a 7 stage polish and buff. Car looks better than new.
For people refinishing stocks, don't sand, *strip.* The factory already sanded the stock to its final dimensions. If you can't steam a dent out, leave it. Surplus military guns are supposed to have character. Buy a new sporting rifle if you want pretty.
Also don't remove the patina. If it linseed oil was used, the stuff in the store does not contain fatty acids and will not turn the wood dark red with age.
You're going to have to sand with some rough grits to change dimensions noticeably. Never had a problem with it, and all dimensions differ from stock to stock, despite being the same model. You have to be careful around the action, though.
Well I've seen plenty of stocks with corners rounded off and buttplates wider than the buttstock. They didn't get that way without sanding... I can often tell a refinished Swiss rifle from an un-refinished one. I can usually tell if it was the arsenal that refinished it or bubba. Bubba loves sand paper and doesn't know what shellac is. I never play with the wood inside where the action fits. Shouldn't be a reason too. Beeswax w/carnauba wax on unfinished areas should be enough to slow changes to the wood from humidity.
@@Foche_T._Schitt LOL, I put a tung oil finish on my K31... I know very well what shellac is, but I put tung oil on it because that's what I like. I'm not at all concerned about the collector's value, that damn stock had been kicked by so many hobnails that it looked like beavers had chewed it and between the holes and the cosmoline it was unpleasant to touch (and there wasn't any shellac left on it, if there ever was). That said, I was, however, pleasantly surprised at how many of the dents steamed out (I didn't fill the ones that wouldn't come out... even though I didn't want a "grody" rifle, I did want to leave some character.
boom
tung's best