Firearms Trivia - Linseed Oil And Ballistol
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- Опубліковано 18 лис 2016
- So what is the reason for the success of Ballistol? Turns out that another firearms product, Linseed Oil also has the magic ingredient...Here's some firearms trivia for ya...
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More great information from The Man. Love your topics, research, knowledge, delivery and quality. Thanks and Merry Christmas.
Thanks for your presentation. I was not aware of the similarities between Lindseed Oil and Ballistol. About 20 years ago I put a hand rubbed Lindseed Oil finish on a new rifle stock. After many coats it produced a smooth, deep brown finish. Ballistol is new to me but has become my preferred cleaning agent. Glad it's effective on wood and leather as well.
I use Boiled Linseed Oil all the time! TIP: only use BOILED linseed oil, there is a difference. Regular linseed oil takes days (3+) to set and dry. Boiled linseed oil takes 1 day max. I use a mix of boiled linseed oil and mineral spirits on gun stocks and cork fishing rod grips. Great stuff. BTW I have a gallon size of the same Archer linseed oil in the video. I rarely use the standard linseed oil these days. Who has 3 days to watch oil dry these days? The Archer company became Archer Daniels Midland, mostly now called ADM.
Careful with "Boiled Linseed Oil" on shop rags, make sure to dispose of them outside or in a fireproof container. Rags with boiled Linseed Oil have been known to spontaneous combust
spontaneously? like they catch fire with no spark, heat, or any source of ignition? or is it just very sensitive and the tiniest ignition source will light it up, but it still requires one?
@@bobbyc2768 Boiled linseed oil heats up as it dries basically. Cloths soaked in BLO can therefore self ignite without the presence of a spark or flame.
You'd better store Hoppes 9 carefully, as well.
Hoppes 9 Solvent has a Kersosene Base.
I usually put mine in a airtight jar with moist sand to prevent oxygen and the fire from starting until I can safetly dispose of it.
I oiled a newly made raw gunstock with linseed oil every day and 0000 steel wool before each new coat. The rag I was using caught fire. It was laying on the cement garage floor. Flames shot up 3 feet high as we were watching TV in the living room. The smoke alarm and fire extinguisher saved the house. No damage.
I gotta say that’s a awesome stick
In agreement, 8-1/2 times better than a fat finger obscuring the object. ...
I always learn something from your videos. Happy Thanksgiving!
I used Linseed oil for my .410 shotgun in the late 50's early 60's. Made the stock beautiful 😌.
Love the smell of boiled Linseed oil.....great for ax and other wood tool handles...Ballistol is great! Boy are they missing the boat not selling it at retail locations....
I use Ballistol now to protect my axe and vintage tools and chisels (inherited). I generally liberally apply it to the metal and then spread it over the wood handles using leather gardening gloves. They were all pretty badly neglected before I discovered Ballistol and it really has breathed new life into everything, especially the stiff old gloves.
Used to use that same linseed oil back in the 60's, it worked great.
My wife, an accomplished oil painter with noted gallery showings, obviously uses linseed oil and loves its smell. What's interesting is that she loves the smell of my Ballistol when I clean my firearms. I can now tell her why.
My wife's pussy smells of Ballistol.
I put together a flower box to cover the well head of a house I recently bought. I was going to coat the wood with copper preservative, but at the last moment I realized that might be detected in the well water - no bueno, so I finished the wood with linseed oil. Not great, but better than nothing, and certainly not so toxic.
My Mosin stock is Tru-oil (Linseed). Very nice finish which looks original, not out of place like some lacquer finishes on some refurbished mil surps.
I just keep rubbing a little more in every now an again.
Another good fact video. Thank you.
Just refinished a sported mauser from the 30's with boiled linseed oil. 3 coats and 40hrs or so of rubbing the oil in the stock. Dad and i gave the completely refinished gun to my nephew for a birthday/college graduation present.
That was supposed to have been "plumbing" supply. 😯
Have a very Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year to you as well.
I had multiple guns rust in a gun cabinet, I have a fairly humid home in the summer. I tried a ton of different gun oils. They had Rem oil on them when they rusted the worst. Since I swapped to Ballistol I haven't had a speck of rust. I don't know why it works so well but it does, it's mostly just mineral oil and some vegetable oil with a couple additives. As a bonus, it slowly removes copper in your bore when you keep all your bores nicely oiled before putting them in the safe. I use the Ballistol/Water after corrosive ammo as well. It also seems to stay on the metal and not leave any gunk behind.
Edit: sounds like the oleic acid in Ballistol helps prevent rust by resistance of the charge transfer process of corrosion of metal.
I still love the look and feel of linseed oil on my wood stocks. Sometimes the old school ways is the best.
Shadow Hawk - The linseed oil finish is still treasured by many in the know... Best to ya, FC Happy Thanksgiving...!!
Great tutorial Sir!👏🏻👍🏻🇺🇸
Great video as always thanks
They used to say the way to finish a stock with linseed oil was to give it a coat once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year for the rest of your life. Linseed oil never really dries. Stuff like Linspeed or True Oil is polymerized and contains drying agents.
I have a can of Archer Linseed Oil also! 50 Years +!
If you ever see a stock that has been hand rubbed with linseed oil it looks like it was dipped in glass. My father was an early 50's Marine and when I purchased my first M1 in the 1970's he hand rubbed a linseed oil finish for me. I thought it was sprayed with polyurethane.
cal30m1 - And the best rifle stocks were done the same way, but today, that kind of handwork cannot be done without costs becoming so prohibitive that only a small percentage of the shooting public can afford those guns. Thanks for your posting, and your father is/was an exceptional man.... Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ya..!! FC
I have the the same problem. My dad had a m1 carbine in Vietnam he steam the dents out then finished it with linseed oil. Almost 50 years later it still looks like it has been dipped in glass! How do I take the shine off that linseed oil!?
@@jasonaustin6416 You could try wet sanding to dull the lustre.
I had to scroll all the way down here to find an informed, knowledgeable post on hand-rubbing with (boiled) linseed oil. You will have a beautiful, durable finish that can be easily repaired if the gun gets wet hunting, etc. But since it's not polyurethane, it'll never crack or chip either. Here's how it's done.... Fill the grain with Birchwood Casey's combination stain/grain filler, applying ACROSS THE GRAIN. Sand it the same way. If the color suits, open your can of oil and get some on the meat of your palm, the thumb area. Rub it cross grain in circles. Your speed will depend on how long you can stand the pain and heat this produces. If you are ambidextrous, you'll go a lot faster, but that takes more coordination. It's slow, but you'll be greatly encouraged by the beauty of your work. This is what's called a hand-rubbed finish. I can't imagine the old craftsmen producing hand-rubbed furniture this way, but maybe they did.
Linseed oil is still in use in the health fad area except they call it flax seed oil now and they charge 15$ for 10 ounces. Linoleum will be a familiar word to us old timers and that used linseed oil to produce. Linseed oil yellows over time and was mostly replaced with synthetic polymers that don't yellow.
cgirl111 - Appreciate the neat info on linseed....miraculous stuff...!! ;) FC
Have the same can of linseed oil, yep about 50yrs now
dowdawg - Great hearing from the dowdawg - Happy Thanksgiving to ya, FC Steve
You too Mr Cookie!!!
I as well. To the point that i have to use slip-joint pliers to remove the cap. ...
I watched another video on how to remove gun stock scratches with boiled linseed oil but if I already have ballistol would it work the same?
Every now and then i find an old gun with lots of grime and dings in the stock. I take a used, soft, green scrubbing pad and i dip it in boiled linseed oil. Then i slop the oil onto the stock rubbing gently with the wood grain. I scrub on plenty of oil then i let the stock sit over-night.
The next day i rub the stock with paper towels with tbe grain until the stock feels dry. I am amazed at bow much dirt comes out of the pores of the wood. Also most of the dings will swell back out. The difference has to be seen to be appreciated. I wet the paper towels in the sink before i put them in the trash to prevent spontaneous combustion.
John Davis jax fl
Johnn Davis - The fine oil finishes on the wood of our old guns was indeed done that way. And your tip on prevention of spontaneous combustion is well taken. Previously, the recommendation was to dispose of old oiled rags instead of keeping them on premises. But wetting them is a great idea. Have a great day, FC Steve
I really like a gun stock finished with BLO. Did a few not too long ago, one was my No.4 Mk1 SMLE which BLO is the original finish used on those rifles. Another was a single shot Stevens .410 I restored for a friend and the BLO made it look very nice.
mytmousemalibu - Always great to hear from the mytmousemalibu..!! Even though I've switched to Ed's Red for most of my gun cleaning (thanks for the tip), I still love Ballistol on my wood. Happy Thanksgiving to ya, FC Steve
FortuneCookie45LC Always welcome to see a FortuneCookie video or few in my subscription lineup! I'm a sold, firm believer in Mr. Ed Harris's wonderful libation for our guns! I have made a believer out of some of my other friends too. I have Ballistol and still like it for certain applications. It's great for wood and leather and my favorite use for it is for cleanup after shooting the holy black! I use it for black powder cleanup in the form of "moose milk" which is just an emulsion of Ballistol and water. It's great stuff!
Take care Steve, have yourself a wonderful Thanksgiving!
mytmousemalibu - Haven't heard that 50-50 Ballistol - water called "moose milk" in many a yarn...Based on your recommendation, if I ever get around to shooting my Pieta 1860 Colt replica 44, it's moose milk for sure... Happy Thanksgiving, FC Steve
FortuneCookie45LC Happy Thanksgiving to you too!
Many people use linseed oil on axe handles including Grandsfor Bruks.
Great video!!! Appreciate it !! I love Balistol
would it be possible to use both in a stock finishing to gain some color but get the feel of the linseed oil finish?.......great vid btw.
Linseed oils and similar are converted to need oxidation to harden. Essentially it's an oil that is hungry for oxygen and reacts with air to kick off.
Good stuff.
Thanks learned something today. Grease sparingly on my glock seems to work.
Where do you get cans of ballistol like that? they're all bright green now
Hard to find Ballistol near me but I like it.
Mr. Tolly (AKA: fatmantolly) try amazon
I like your style dude
I finished my stock with minwax polyshades (has polyurethane mixed in). can I put linseed or ballistol on for a shine?
bevi 69mm - You certainly can, but the full benefit of the linseed or ballistol is max on the bare wood. Polyurethane will stop a lot of that. Have a great day, FC Steve
We used to rub linseed oil into baseball gloves back in the '50's, it supposedly made the leather soft and pliable.
I use Ballistol now to protect my axe and vintage tools and chisels (inherited). I generally liberally apply it to the metal and then spread it over the wood handles using leather gardening gloves. They were all pretty badly neglected before I discovered Ballistol and it really has breathed new life into everything, especially the stiff old gloves.
I use Ballistol to clean and lube my Glock 22 and Ruger 22. Oil up the holsters. I put Ballistol on my vehicles battery terminals to stop that crappy crud that sometimes builds up on the terminals. Clean the terminals then coat with Ballistol no more corrosion
Nowadays if you want the same finish on stocks with "Linseed Oil" use Flaxseed Oil; the stuff you can eat. Its truly "Raw Linseed Oil" that they used on M1 Garands, 1903s, 1917s and so on.
Good info...
Terrific.
My wife hates the smell of ballistol.
I never thought Ballistol was nontoxic till I got a bottle of it along with my plain carbon steel knives from Wosthuf, no surprise a German oil came with German knives, but it must be safe to use on kitchen knives. Still, I use the tsubaki oil that came with my Japanese fine knives, guessing the camilla oil is somehow safer, or just the idea of using gun oil on my cooking knives still bothers me. The Springfield Armory's book still recommends boiled linseed oil for the M1a, and I use linseed on all my classic military surplus rifles. Still got a bottle of it as old as yours, from the garage that my grandfather left, and it still works despite decades in winters of -30 F. hard to beat the classic oils, that's for sure.
kingduckford - Thank you for the precious insights and information...usually, we find that oils are bad for us physically as they are petroleum based. But Ballistol is different in that it is fatty acid based - organic in other words. So if ingested, is not problematic (within reason of course). There has been medicinal use of Ballistol reported (and we would not recommend that). I'm getting the good drift that linseed oil on our milsurps is a great idea as the wood on our milsurps is open grain and will take linseed oil readily. Thanks for posting, and Happy Thanksgiving... FC
I put too much on my walnut stock and it was tacky. I used ballistic to rub in and cut it a bit. Not sure how useful that was.
Found Ballistol at a bumbling supply business in 'N'chez, MS.
Al Johnson - Thanks for posting on this... I've used Ballistol with complete satisfaction, but recently was told that the US Navy liked mineral oil for preserving metal...tried that and it works very well...more on this in an upcoming video... Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ya, FC Steve
All somthing new with you FC. it's been 5yrs now and I never get tired of your great channel..
I have the same can of Archer. Use BLS all the time.
pr4runner - Great hearing from ya...and a very fine Thanksgiving to you... FC Steve
Hi FC,
With all the changes, I hope you are keeping up with UA-cam comments.
I often use linseed oil on my wooden stocks, as well as furniture. One of the qualities of linseed oil and Ballistol s that they both dry. IF we use Ballistol on all parts of a gun and it dries, shouldn’t we add some regular gun oils or grease to moving parts to keep them lubricated and functioning smoothly?
Greg La Roche - Let's just say I've taken down reloading videos, then put 'em back up. Then got the word that YT is cracking down after all, so then took the vids down again... Yes, way behind on comments...may not ever get to some of 'em.... Best regards, FC Steve
I have a small jar of linspeed . it only last about 2 months . ots jelled pretty good now . was thinking of adding some kerosene to thin it but im not a chemist so ill probably just buy a new one . lol
I think there is confusion here. Linseed oil is to make oil paints flow more freely and smoothly and is used in the world of fine art. In other applications, when applied to something and allowed to dry, it leaves a kind of hard coating like shellac and is extremely hard to remove later. BOILED linseed oil is a very different product and is used for wood. By itself it does not absorb well into wood and so you cut it 50/50 with turpentine. The turpentine carries the boiled linseed oil into the wood and then quickly evaporates, leaving the oil. It requires 3-4 applications over the first year and then its good for a long time. I wouldnt use ballistol or gun oil or linseed oil on stocks ever. I have a hateful job ahead, getting all the years of gun and weird oils out of a stock i have. Stocks need much less care than people think.
This narrator has a great voice that with a little exaggeration would do amazing in a cartoon like Ren & Stimpy.
A lot of pre-charge pneumatic air gun shooters use ballistol as it does not attack the rubber seals used in the rifles.
Wish i knew that before putting wd40 in my air rifle. About 30 shots later it broke. But it was shooting solid for awhile. Damn waste of a pellet gun and cash.
@@dalanwanbdiska6542 - hate that for you. Depending on gun you may be able to rebuild for not much money depending on make & model. There are a couple of sources online that sell rebuild kits with all the o rings needed for about $20-30.
Happy Thanksgiving FC
sicesp - Thanks and to you as well... FC Steve
Always used Linseed oil on my M14 stock in 1967 when I was in the US Army. I've been using Ballistol since 1976.
Bob Hartman - Use of good products will stand the test of time...Best to ya, FC
Ballistol, pronounced Ba-lis-tol like Ballistics is the most stinky ancient snake oil. Virtually anything is better.
Dear Steve/Fortune Cookie:
The finest stock finish is still a linseed oil finish. Some like to add a drier to hasten the finish cycle, Linspeed Stock finish is one of these as is Tru Oil, but plain refined (Boiled Linseed Oil) works just as well. Taking the dried finish down works well as does fine grades of BRONZE Wool, don't use steel wool, it can absorb moisture (the microscopic particles) that imbed in the finish, then rust ruining the finish) Bronze Wool is still available from Brownells. Linseed oil finishes are easily touched up when dinged or scraped, and unless you insist on hunting in a downpour, it sheds water sufficiently well. I long ago gave up Hoppes #9 reluctantly because of the pleasing aroma it has, nothing announces shooting time or it's aftermath like the aroma of Number 9. It will though if left long in the bore etch it somewhat it is a nice bore solvent for smokeless loads, and I have a large bottle of it on my shelf that I never use any more. Bllistol, politely put, STINKS, but mixed with water `0 to 1 `works like nothing else on Black Powder fouling. Water itself is the operative solvent which when mixed with Balistol, evaporates leaving a protective oil film. Balistol also works well as a lubricant, and is way better than machinists soluble oil and water for bore cleaning. I keep a large metal spray can ot straight Balistol, AND a like can mixed 10 ro 1 on my shelf and in my range box as I primarily shoot the Holy Black these days. I also use BG LUBE Bullet Molds as they carry enough of Black Powder Lube to allow shooting an entire match without resorting to cleaning to keep the guns working , Google BigLube Bullet Molds,they work well with smokes loads s well though they really shine in shooting the Holy Black Have a Blessed Christmas Season this year.
Don Denison.
Don D - We could sit down and chat for hours with a pot of coffee...That "Moose Milk" has been respected by Black Powder shooters for many a year. Those Big Lube Bullets with SPG lube would be mighty fine for sure. I have never gotten into shooting black powder, but I have often considered loading up my 45 Colt cartridges with 35 grains of black powder to get into it. Might just be a lot of fun and interest. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays, FC Steve
DearSteve:
If you decide to try the HOLY Black, look up Duelist 1954's You Tube Site. Mike has forgotten more about the Holy Black than most of us have learned. His s full of lots of instructional videos for the beginning student of The Holy Black. I've shot Black since the early 50's. I may even have more knowledge, but his site is organized and very useful, give it a look see if you choose to begin shooting the Holy Black Black Powder shooting is a whole new world.
Don
The Bos'n Mate would apply a coat of Linseed oil daily to new wood for 7 days then once a week for a month. After that twice a year.
chevy6299 - Thanks for the additional information...always great to hear from the chevy6299 - Happy Thanksgiving to ya, FC Steve
Happy Thanks Giving to you too Steve.
nice review, I use boiled linseed on stocks and knife handles, haven't tried ballistol yet
MCK - Ballistol is very good on wood - Can even make scratched stocks look very good again...Happy Thanksgiving to ya, FC
Any light gun oil will do the same thing as Ballistol.
Pelican1984 - One thing, though, is that the Ballistol is great on wood (within reason, of course). Light oil would not. Open grained wood, like on my Rossi M92, is kindly treated with Ballistol. I've switched most of my solvent use to Ed's Red, but still use Ballistol on my wood... Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ya..!! FC
FortuneCookie45LC Ballistol is a light petroleum oil. What is the difference in wiping down your stock with regular gun oil? I've done it for decades. Cheers. b.
Pelican1984 - Thanks for your posts, and I enjoy this thread. With all the Hoppe's I've used, and Shooter's Choice stuff, and Midway's brand, and Ballistol and Ed's Red...thinking back - it's all been good as long as we are diligent to maintain our guns... and you are of the same - Best Regards to ya..! FC
I've been using Balistol for a year now and wish I'd tried it sooner.
In a recent issue of "Rifle", Terry Wieland explains the many uses of Balistol over the years. Adolf Hitler liked a .medicinal version called Neo-Balistol and may have poisoned himself in the 30s by its overuse.
Thought you might find that interesting.
Take care.
I use Boiled Linseed Oil on lots of things. (Now it may be chemically treated linseed oil instead of actually being boiled). It gets used on the metal and wood of outdoor tools like axes and shovels. All of the muzzleloader kits I have done have had the stocks finished in boiled linseed oil. In the late summer of this year I even refinished the original pine wood floor in my bedroom with boiled linseed oil because it has a few advantages over more modern finishes.
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I use linseed oil on all my flintlocks I build
Not sure about rubbing Ballistol on my M1 stock, but RLO is proven.
Be careful storing rags with linseed oil - there's a possibility of spontaneous combustion.
I was not impressed with the finish on my Rossi 92 44 mag, so I stripped it and considered refinishing it with linseed oil. I ended up using tung oil instead. I cut it with mineral spirits; (this works with linseed oil as well, and you can use turpentine in place of mineral spirits.). Each application had less and less mineral spirits. The final coat was a mixture of bees wax, tung oil, and mineral spirits. It's useful for many applications; in addition to guns stocks, you can use it on tool handles, and a host of other items.
Keep up the great work. I'm always excited when a new FC video gets posted!
Try Linseed oil, beeswax, and turpentine mixed in equal quantities by weight, dissolve the beeswax in the turpentine first, then mix in the linseed oil, apply with a brush, sand/rub out then reapply until you get the sheen you want, using rottenstone and a felt pad on the final coats really gives a wonderful finish.
James Gipe - Thanks for sharing your experiences with these materials - broadens our knowledge and capabilities for everyone...and thanks for the kind words...much appreciated Happy Thanksgiving, FC Steve
Donald Denison - Sounds like a great project for stripping my Mosin Nagant stock and refinishing with some good sanding and then the Linseed or Tung Oil mixes. Something on the to do list after retirement...Happy Thanksgiving... FC Steve
Dear Fortune Cookie/Steve:
When do you plan to retire? Take care that you establish some kind of schedule, for without the structure and rhythms of a regular job, life can get away from you and one can drift through retirement accomplishing nothing. I did well until my sweet wife got sick 5 years ago, and we lost the battle with her cancer. We did so much together that I didn't need a schedule, we were also principal cadre and Honorary Life Members of the California Bluegrass Association. I found that contact with the hundreds of friends we had made there, was for the most part pretty painful, and that one of the great passions of my life, Bluegrass Music, the Grass Valley Festival, and all the events surrounding those things were just painful reminders of the joy we took in the fellowship we found there. My salvation is coming with another great passion I have that was for the most part, not shared with my wife, that passion has been shooting sports. At age 75, I'm resuming the organized shooting that I abandoned during the time we were dealing with my spouse's futile fight with cancer. Bit by bit the needs of the sport of shooting, match by match, and the social contacts made surrounding organized shooting, has helped provide some sort of structure to my life once more. I no longer lie in grief, this structure, my Church, and my Faith, finally has drug me out of the living hell of grief and loss. Other shooters, my fellow church members and this passion for shooting sports together with the long years of experience I've had since 1954 in this activity, have restored my sanity. You also share the same sort of passion towards shooting as I, be careful to keep some sort of structure, and this passion will see you through even the most devastating of personal tragedies.
Life for me has begun anew, and shooting and the social contacts surrounding it, SASS and other activities have restored structure to my life, the prayers of my fellow Church Members, and my lifelong faith together with my return to organized shooting have been key in getting life moving again.
Retirement can be very rewarding, and it is wonderful to have the time to pursue projects that were just impossible before retirement, but do make certain that you establish structure, it will be a treasure for you when things get difficult.
I'm enjoying resuming my correspondence once again, I have been a life long letter writer, and have found that habit and the use of e-mail a wonderful way to establish the structure we all need in life.
May God Bless you and Yours during this coming Holiday Season. Make sure that you enjoy the retirement that you have earned, if you ever want to ask my advice about a project or share advice with me, feel free to do so.
Sincerely Yours
Don Denison
Donald Denison - Thanks for the very thoughtful comment, Don...and I will keep all that in mind - but retirement is still at least a couple of years away...Sorry to hear about your loss - the Lord gave you many great years together. I look at my wife Jan and can only say that it's been a fantastic journey. We don't know exactly what is ahead, but we sure know from whence we came...I lost my mom last February to colon cancer... Thank you for sharing your inspirational story... God is...and that's all we need to know... Best to ya, FC
Linseed oil is made from the oil of flax seed (found in some breakfast cereals). Flax plant stems are used to make Linen thread and ultimately Linen cloth. Hence Lin*seed. Ballistol is Mineral OIl (petroleum) with some perfume and oleic acid. Nothing magic about it, though people make all sorts of ridiculous claims.
While Ballistol uses a mineral oil base it does not behave the same way as a basic mineral oil. Case in point, emulsify Ballistol and then try the same thing with regular mineral oil and tell me if the two behave anywhere near the same.
Ballistol should be sold in 5 gallon containers.
Matt Lord - Ha, ha, har - That's a good one, Matt... lol Happy Thanksgiving, FC
It is sold in up to 10 liter containers.
It actually is sold in larger sizes, under the name of “Formulated White Mineral Oil”. If you look on the Ballistol can, the ingredients are “White Mineral oil”. Which is actually a food grade mineral oil. And if you google white mineral oil you’ll find there are a few different formulations, 1 is just straight 100% mineral oil, 2 is a Formulated mineral oil, which has other safe additives to help with rust and corrosion.
I'll start my comment here with a word of EXTREME CAUTION for anyone watching this video. You have to be very careful when working with linseed oil. When you are done working with it, you NEED to put all of your used rags, cloth, etc, that was soaking in linseed oil, soak them in water and put them in a METAL CONTAINER and place it outside in a safe place away from your home, garage, shop, or anything that might catch fire. Linseed oil, when used on cotton cloth and rolled-up tight will SPONTANEOUSLY CATCH FIRE.
Another use for linseed oil is to make oiled cotton garments, like the old whalers used to wear in the 1800s. You can use a paint brush to apply it to cotton shirts and coats and then HANG IT LOOSELY OUTSIDE to dry. (Again, the fire hazard.) When it dries, it creates a nice, natural, waterproofing in the cotton fabric.
One last note here. Linseed oil will dry into a hard shellac. That's why it's great on wooden gun stocks. Ballistol has emulsifiers that won't let it completely dry-out, which is a good thing. You would not want to use a lubricant that dries hard and binds gun parts. But I would stay away from the "overuse" of any kind of gun oil on wooden gun stocks. Because it doesn't dry-out and tends to seep into the porous wood, it will cause the wood fibers to expand and weaken. This is why a lot of older guns like the Savage Model 99 and shotguns will develop severe cracks in the stock where they meet the rear of the receivers. It's because the receivers and actions were oiled well, and the guns left to sit in cabinets or safes in an upright position for years. The oil eventually seeps back into the stock, swells what used to be tight wood fibers, and the next time the gun is fired, the recoil creates a crack in the stock near the receiver area. (Yes, it's possible to overdo it in the oiling process with firearms.)
pagamenews - Thanks for pointing out this valuable information...both on the possibility of spontaneous combustion of oily rags as well as the danger of oil weakening wood stocks... Best Regards to ya, FC
Will rags or paper towels with Ballistol on them have that same capability to spontaneously combust?
Good topic. Do some more trivia stuff. *BGM.41
as far as BP shootin use 1000+ only
Linseed oil will darken in light and heat .
The boiled linseed oil that we get today is not the same as the boiled linseed of even a generation ago. It used to contain lead as a drying agent and that is why it was an acceptable gunstock finish. Modern boiled linseed oil never really drys and it is not a durable finish at all.
Raw Linseed oil will not harden but modern "boiled" linseed oil contains japan dryers to allow it to harden into a wood finish. It is still a durable hand rubbed oil finish.
RTOHIO I wouldn't go so far as to call it "durable." Even using a hot-box it takes days to dry. Tru-Oil, Laurel Mountain Forge gun stock finish, and Jim Chamber's stock finish are all more durable and can be sanded in to fill the grain.
Don Tripp - Good to know - This can of linseed oil falls into the old generation of linseed oil, for sure... Best of the new year to ya, FC
Bloke can u demo linseed on m1 garand bucko
Will a pile of rags soaked with Balistol spontaneously combust?
Thereal111t - There is a risk of any petroleum based oil in rags undergoing spontaneous combustion - Good that you bring that up...Best Regards to you, FC
You forgot to mention Ballistol`s healing properties.
Rupert McNaught Davis - Yes, some people take Ballistol in small amounts medicinally, but that was a byproduct of its organic fatty acids nature...It is not recommended for medicinal use. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ya..!! FC
Ballistol reminds me of olive oil.
BR5499a - It's all organic..!! Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ya..!! FC
I would not finish my favorite gun stock with Ballistol, as it contains lubricants or other chemicals.
It's all organic...
For those who don't know...linseed is another name for flaxseed.
I don't think ballistol will cure the same.
1997LT1Camaro - Nice wheels..!! Ballistol does a lot of stuff, but falls short of miracle... :) ;) :) Best to ya, Happy Thanksgiving, FC
FortuneCookie45LC Thanks!Happy thanks giving to you! Btw I just stripped/refinished an 1942 M1 walnut stock with pure organic linseed oil. They even tell you that it heats some up during curing, and to be pre cautious when leaving rags after wiping.
The stock came out beautiful. I left all wear in it to preserve its character. I might shoot a short video in the future.
1997LT1Camaro - if you shoot the video, please let me know... Best Regards FC
Ballistol is a Wonderful Product but I Wish it didn't smell like stinky Feet !!
Gerry K - Thankfully, the smell does dissipate...so if used outdoors, it's at least tolerable... Best to ya, FC
FortuneCookie45LC
Hickok45 always uses it Outdoors !!
I found I could smell it for a long time after using it !!! Made my Range Bag smell like a Gym Bag.
I went back to Hoppes #9 (which I love the smell of) and Weapon Shield !!
I Treat all my Firearms with Militec !!! Fantastic Stuff !!!
Gerry K - Certainly are a lot of good solvents out there. And then there are the copper removers... Shooters use what works best for them... Good shootin' to ya..!! and Happy Thanksgiving FC
FortuneCookie45LC
I'd make some Ed's Red, but I live in an apartment, so storing chemicals isn't an option.
I like the way Ballistol works, but the smell reminds me of when I had my brother as my roommate. lol
Happy Thanksgiving !!
Gerry K - That is really a funny crack about your brother - but we'll just keep that on the QT. It's a guy thing. On the flip side, reminds me of what Patrick Swayze said in the movie Dirty Dancing about the women in the dance classes - "They take such good care of themselves..." Somehow, we can all learn something from that...the sales gal that I bought the high tech body lotion from told me that she used that all over herself...didn't leave much for the imagination...Oh, sorry I got sidetracked...we were talking about something, err oh yes, Ed's Red and strong chemicals... ;) :) ;) Happy Holidays to ya..!! FC
Ballistol works great! Smells like wet dog and cheese. But is best oil, lube and gun cleaner I've ever used.
Ballistol is basicly Mineral Oil, Isobutyl Alcohol and oleic acid (a fatty acid, like Linseed). Save yourself some money go to Lowes and buy a bottle of Mineral Oil...Done!
ruthless4645 - Looks like I'm going to have to buy a little bottle of mineral oil and give that a try...Apparently, the oleic acid does make a difference though because of the polymerize effect. makes that patina on metal and goodness on wood. Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ya..!! FC
@@ruthless4645 Ballistol doesn't thicken with age like many 'standard' oils which is why it often finds use in delicate instruments such as cameras and such like.
The old seamans chanty goes
"Raw linseed makes a skin,
Boiled linseed soaks right in"
Raw linseed was used to preserve ropes on ships. Boiled was used to preserve wood tool handles and gun stocks. It shouldnt be used on leather, it makes it hard and stiff.
A thing is animal, vegetable or mineral and should be preserved with a like product.
Just my opinion based on maintaining my personal museum of collected artifacts.
John Davis
Johnn Davis We used Raw Linseed oil on our M-1 Grand stocks on a regular basis as it soaks deeper and helps to prevent them from cracking, all weather protection.
Does anyone here use wax over the oil finish on the wood?
Renaissance Wax is the brand that I use.
Thanks
E.Kent.D - Johnson's Paste Wax - light coat, but only if we are through with the linseed oil and sandings. Some Pledge would also apply a nice finish shine. Some shooters just leave the final finish as is... Have a great day...FC
Linseed oil smells better.
Thompson Jerry - It does smell better...Have a great day, FC Happy Thanksgiving
Boiled linseed oil is still used on fine shotguns and rifles!!!!!!!!!!!!
I use it to oil the exclamation key on my vintage typewriter.
Linseed Oil fallen out of favor & hardly used anymore??? You must shop exclusively at big box stores. Professional Master Woodworker over 35 years here. Haven't touched "modern" petrochemical varnish in for decades except when re-coating copper coils in a vintage electric motor. Nothing beats an oil finish on wood. Nothing.
i use on all my milsurp rifles. makes a beautiful finish but takes a while to do it but it looks warm semi gloss look.
MegaBart56 - That's a great place for linseed oil for use...glad you brought that up. Best Regards to ya, and Happy Thanksgiving. FC
i used it on M-39 Fin. and Yugo M-48 turned out beautiful but took a while to get the nice warm look. water beads up on the stocks.
Ballistol is great for old leather slings that are dried out makes them soft again.
MegaBart 56 - Congrats on owning the M39 Fin - those are getting very hard to find..and linseed oil for our milsurps sounds perfect - all that wood is open grained... Happy Thanksgiving to ya, FC
FC45LC, just order a Yugo m-48a and hope it will be a good one but i know it's going to be covered with cosmoline. they even though they weren't in any wars are now getting scarce too. in general all misurps firearms and ammo are getting hard to find. Hope now that Trump is in that our m-1's and carbines will come back from S.K. ? checking out Eastern European sites say they still have ammo in their warehouses. we need more. lol.
My girlfriend likes linseed oil better.
Both of these products are old and outdated.I use Tetra grease on slides and a light film of Amsoil synthetic motorcycle oil elsewhere.
Outdated...how so? Ballistol is still used to this day in Germany to lubricant precision machinery. It can also be used on leather and it was used to treat wounds in both world wars by the German army.
@@nojustno1216 mostly mineral oil,really not a great metal on metal lubricant and offers little protection from rain or humidity as it washes of easily,it is safe and non toxic but this is a old outdated product.