I just got a ball joint press set and an extra matching set of attachments, I don't know why everyone doesn't do this for all types of bushings. It's just as good as a hydraulic press, and it's very versatile with all of the collars. And it's better than advice.
i used a little propane torch to heat the old rubber bushings. I installed prothane bushings on my 350z a few years ago and only used the grease they supply. Haven't heard a squeak from them so I used the same grease this time as well. Now I'm replacing every bushing on my g35 so i did all fronts, rears next. Used a prothane kit because its cheaper than energy suspension by about half. Installed whiteline bushings on my buddies g35 in the compression arm and the whiteline, energy and prothane bushings all seem to be of equal quality. I would use the prothane supplied grease simply because i have like 4 years and 20-30k miles on the old 350z and they've been silent so I have faith in it. Kits come with quite a bit, probably enough, but I really used alot so I paid $10 for a tub of it so i have plenty. I also used it on some door hinges on my crown vic that have been replaced a while back but would still get to squeaking eventually. Thin layer of that stuff fixed that, but of course ull get dirt sticking to that grease now so ill just wipe that off occasionally, haven't had to re grease and its not collected as much dirt as i expected it would.
Thanks for the video man! I was stuck this morning with my chassis side frt control arm bushings but you gave me the brilliant idea to use a Sawzall. Cheers
Yes! I thought of doing pretty much this including the jigsaw, but couldn't figure out cutting the rubber most efficiently. The holesaw is genius! You're right that burning rubber is poison, might run a drill bit through it a bunch of times first to help with that. Great video
If not a hole saw, just use a drill bit. Go around the center and eventually it comes out. First time I did it years ago was with a propane torch. Just blasting the rubber for like 6 hours until it was dry and crispy lol young and dmb I guess
I have a set to remove bearings. The problem was, that the hole of the bushing is to small to fit the bar. But after using ur method, I could use the set and remove the rest of the bushing . THXs
Great video, thanks Like you I dont have a hydraulic press but i do have many hole saws , a large vise and ingenuity, lol. There is more than 1 way to skin a cat ! Like yourself ,I don't know how many times I have forgotten to plug in the drill just before using it !
@@RiggsGarage I ran out the garage last night and tried with a ball joint press but had no luck. I'm sure heat would have gotten the job done, but like I said, $$$... I did this honky hack and had that bushing out in 5 minutes. That included time it took to get the tools. Love my binder! I've done a ton of work to it. Lots of help from guys like you, posting your insights! I just finished replacing the floors and the windshield area from rust damage. That was a BIG job. Thanks again!
I tried heating with a torch but what really worked well was to place the control arm in a bed of hot coals from our fire pit. This made the rubber nice and soft and it just pushed out by hand easily.
Ultimate Tip: Use Teflon Tape and the included poly grease when installing polyurethane bushings. It will never squeak for the life of the bushings. Never ever use petroleum based grease on polyurethane bushings. All grease are not made equal.
I drilled some holes on the rubber (to weaken it) and then twisted hard the inner sleve with a large pipe wrench and then pressed it out. I'm having a hard time removing the outer collar, it looks like I touched the control arm and I'm using a hand saw :-(
Does this work with those small bushings for motorcycles with the metal around them?I have 6 i have to do and getting the metal ring part out is the problem cause the metal looks all smashed and fused into the swingarm metal,any help?
you were able to remove the part completely and place it a vice to remove it. This doesn't work when the part is still attached to the car, I'm still struggling to take out the metal sleeve.
Yeah this depends on where you are working on the car. Part out is easy, if the part is in, really depends on where it is. Some places you can't get your tools to it. Thanks for watching
so... do it without press set... BUT!!! instead you will need: big bench vice, powerful drill with special tip and jigsaw!!! Or... go to auto parts store or home depot or similar stores and rent the press set.
The poly replacement bushings do have a metal sleeve in the middle. They are different from stock in that they do not have the thin outer metal sleeve, but that doesn't affect structure or safety / performance.
honestly I would never ever replace the OE bushings with poly bushings. Best to just get the original OE bushings and get yourself a $130 press kit. I also believe it isn't a good thing to put lube between your bushings and your arms. Pls keep us updated how this holds up after a couple of years.
@@RiggsGarage Yes , and after power washing my engine compartment . I will liberally spray it all over and let it soak in , keeps rubber and plastic looking new .
If you are like me and have to bodge everything , ha ha , you can also simply drill out = some of us don't even have a vice = so what you can do is hope ur mate or neighbour has a van and jack the bush in-between blocks of wood and using the van as the press lol
Ain't no way u didn't cut into the control arm!! I literally saw the cut u made into thew arm past the bushings ...that's a bad bad idea....just use a heavy duty punch and a big hammer ..wouldn't have hurt the arm At all
Awesome video, just a quick request: (please don't show super closeups of your face) I am sure all girls will love it, but the reality is that your audience is 'men', and none of us want some dude up against our face, I am sure you don't. Just a suggestion, otherwise I would have given a thumbs up.
@@RiggsGarage When you saw into the sides of the bearing surface on accident like when you did with the sawsalll The mating surface becomes damaged it allows moisture to seep down where the bushing mates inside the control arm. Theres a tiny channel for it to let moisture and air into there. That could gall up the bearing as well not being a smooth pressure fit. It might lessen the life of the bushing by around 15-25% depending on the environment and just how bad it is but it's really important to keep the machined surfaces clean and scratch free. Sandpaper is not the way to go either because it can ruin the tolerances of the mating surfaces.
This can still be done as a last resort. It can last but doing it the way it was intended helps keep the life of the bearing what it was supposed to be. Hope your next week is fantastic friend!
I love UA-cam and people like this man. You can do everything by yourself - hundreds of ideas shared here!
Thank you!
I just got a ball joint press set and an extra matching set of attachments, I don't know why everyone doesn't do this for all types of bushings. It's just as good as a hydraulic press, and it's very versatile with all of the collars. And it's better than advice.
Here's an easier way light them on fire, tap them out with a socket and malet and press them on with a vice.
That's the easiest way. Done that for years. Why faff about with a drill.
i used a little propane torch to heat the old rubber bushings. I installed prothane bushings on my 350z a few years ago and only used the grease they supply. Haven't heard a squeak from them so I used the same grease this time as well. Now I'm replacing every bushing on my g35 so i did all fronts, rears next. Used a prothane kit because its cheaper than energy suspension by about half. Installed whiteline bushings on my buddies g35 in the compression arm and the whiteline, energy and prothane bushings all seem to be of equal quality. I would use the prothane supplied grease simply because i have like 4 years and 20-30k miles on the old 350z and they've been silent so I have faith in it. Kits come with quite a bit, probably enough, but I really used alot so I paid $10 for a tub of it so i have plenty. I also used it on some door hinges on my crown vic that have been replaced a while back but would still get to squeaking eventually. Thin layer of that stuff fixed that, but of course ull get dirt sticking to that grease now so ill just wipe that off occasionally, haven't had to re grease and its not collected as much dirt as i expected it would.
Thanks for the video man! I was stuck this morning with my chassis side frt control arm bushings but you gave me the brilliant idea to use a Sawzall. Cheers
Sawzall has gotten me out of many jams! Thanks for watching
Yes! I thought of doing pretty much this including the jigsaw, but couldn't figure out cutting the rubber most efficiently. The holesaw is genius! You're right that burning rubber is poison, might run a drill bit through it a bunch of times first to help with that. Great video
Thank you!
If not a hole saw, just use a drill bit. Go around the center and eventually it comes out. First time I did it years ago was with a propane torch. Just blasting the rubber for like 6 hours until it was dry and crispy lol young and dmb I guess
@@blazeaglory haha nothing wrong with reannealing the steel 😂 besides, doing it the hard way is better than any education you could buy
I have a set to remove bearings. The problem was, that the hole of the bushing is to small to fit the bar. But after using ur method, I could use the set and remove the rest of the bushing . THXs
Great idea, I was at a loss until this!
Was thinking a hacksaw might be better the great idea thanks for the idea
Great video, thanks Like you I dont have a hydraulic press but i do have many hole saws , a large vise and ingenuity, lol. There is more than 1 way to skin a cat ! Like yourself ,I don't know how many times I have forgotten to plug in the drill just before using it !
I like this hack because I can avoid using my torches. $300 to fill both tanks!
I'm working on a 74 international pickup. Thanks the tips!
Binder, love it!
@@RiggsGarage I ran out the garage last night and tried with a ball joint press but had no luck. I'm sure heat would have gotten the job done, but like I said, $$$... I did this honky hack and had that bushing out in 5 minutes. That included time it took to get the tools.
Love my binder! I've done a ton of work to it. Lots of help from guys like you, posting your insights!
I just finished replacing the floors and the windshield area from rust damage. That was a BIG job.
Thanks again!
I tried heating with a torch but what really worked well was to place the control arm in a bed of hot coals from our fire pit. This made the rubber nice and soft and it just pushed out by hand easily.
I like that idea!
great video, thanks! Why do you like the polyurethane better?
After using it for a few years, I do not like it 😂
@@RiggsGarage Why?
@bradleydavidgood they ride hard, I think the trade-off for handling to ride quality is definitely not worth it on a street car.
@@RiggsGarage OK thanks!
Ultimate Tip:
Use Teflon Tape and the included poly grease when installing polyurethane bushings.
It will never squeak for the life of the bushings.
Never ever use petroleum based grease on polyurethane bushings.
All grease are not made equal.
You know I’ve tried that and the poly inserts fit too tightly they push the tape off the sleeves.
This method works! Stubborn 4th gen grand caravan, very difficult! 👍
Thank you for the Sawzall tip!🙌🏽
You're welcome, hope it helped
Use dawn dish soap with some water for cutting oil on rubber!
I bet that works amazing, I will give it a shot on the next ones
I drilled some holes on the rubber (to weaken it) and then twisted hard the inner sleve with a large pipe wrench and then pressed it out. I'm having a hard time removing the outer collar, it looks like I touched the control arm and I'm using a hand saw :-(
Does this work with those small bushings for motorcycles with the metal around them?I have 6 i have to do and getting the metal ring part out is the problem cause the metal looks all smashed and fused into the swingarm metal,any help?
Peace and Love
Man...killer technique for a diy guy like myself. Thank you kindly for informing us and displaying your knowledge.
Stay dirty..
Thanks for watching! Appreciate your positivity
Great tips, thanks!
Great video, brother, very helpful! 🎉
Thank you!
you were able to remove the part completely and place it a vice to remove it. This doesn't work when the part is still attached to the car, I'm still struggling to take out the metal sleeve.
Yeah this depends on where you are working on the car. Part out is easy, if the part is in, really depends on where it is. Some places you can't get your tools to it. Thanks for watching
@@RiggsGarage Atlast, it worked for me. Made a slit using a hacksaw then used the air chisel to move the metal sleeve. Lot of frustrating work.
so... do it without press set... BUT!!! instead you will need: big bench vice, powerful drill with special tip and jigsaw!!!
Or... go to auto parts store or home depot or similar stores and rent the press set.
Correct. Lots of ways to skin a cat, I happen to have the tools in the video as my cat skinning tools
You may clean the housing before installing new ones
Get 'er done!
Trying haha
The bushings you installed had no metal? Otherwise, use a press kit from auto parts store?
The poly replacement bushings do have a metal sleeve in the middle. They are different from stock in that they do not have the thin outer metal sleeve, but that doesn't affect structure or safety / performance.
honestly I would never ever replace the OE bushings with poly bushings. Best to just get the original OE bushings and get yourself a $130 press kit. I also believe it isn't a good thing to put lube between your bushings and your arms. Pls keep us updated how this holds up after a couple of years.
How can we connect 👌
First I'm gonna plug this in though. Classic guy move
Brutal. Happens all the time 😂
Great low Tech innovation. Thank you!
Spray all similar rubber components with 303 Protectant to resist drying out and cracking .
That's a good idea
@@RiggsGarage Yes , and after power washing my engine compartment . I will liberally spray it all over and let it soak in , keeps rubber and plastic looking new .
I just use my oxy torch (outside very smokey) to do the same,this may be a better way though
Champion saludos desde argentina bs as exitos y bendiciones
When are you bringing this beauty back?
Big things in store stay tuned. Machining an engine block for a turbo build 🔥🔥🔥
Use some lube, it won’t heat up so much. Calms the smell down as well.
I was thinking about that, perhaps even water would help
This is awesome thanks ….
Great tip! Thanks
Hope it helped, thank you for watching
cool vise!
You know it!!
No reason to extract the rubber bushing first.
What's your method?
If you are like me and have to bodge everything , ha ha , you can also simply drill out = some of us don't even have a vice = so what you can do is hope ur mate or neighbour has a van and jack the bush in-between blocks of wood and using the van as the press lol
Haha! This is the way
Thanks
You're welcome
Thanks bud
You're welcome 👍
Claw puller!?
??
Ain't no way u didn't cut into the control arm!! I literally saw the cut u made into thew arm past the bushings ...that's a bad bad idea....just use a heavy duty punch and a big hammer
..wouldn't have hurt the arm At all
with the amount of power tool he is using on this video without a press. He would easily buy one and cut the time of this repair "Time = $$ Profit"
Right, but most people have a drill. Buying and then storing a press you use once a year or less is not practical for most of us.
What a hack job 😮
Heck yes ❤️
Awesome video, just a quick request: (please don't show super closeups of your face) I am sure all girls will love it, but the reality is that your audience is 'men', and none of us want some dude up against our face, I am sure you don't. Just a suggestion, otherwise I would have given a thumbs up.
Thanks for the input. That old camera wouldn't zoom out at all and it was hard to film well run and gun style. Should be better forward.
@@RiggsGarage Spoke like a real man. Good luck to you.
You ruined the bearing surfaces by sawing into it with a damn sawsall. Bad job here. Do it right.
I'm curious what you mean, please explain
@@RiggsGarage When you saw into the sides of the bearing surface on accident like when you did with the sawsalll The mating surface becomes damaged it allows moisture to seep down where the bushing mates inside the control arm. Theres a tiny channel for it to let moisture and air into there. That could gall up the bearing as well not being a smooth pressure fit. It might lessen the life of the bushing by around 15-25% depending on the environment and just how bad it is but it's really important to keep the machined surfaces clean and scratch free. Sandpaper is not the way to go either because it can ruin the tolerances of the mating surfaces.
@@Mystical_Zeus makes sense to me. Thanks for explaining!
This can still be done as a last resort. It can last but doing it the way it was intended helps keep the life of the bearing what it was supposed to be. Hope your next week is fantastic friend!
Be a little futher back from the camera.
Cheap camera, short arms 😉
@@RiggsGarage I have the same problems. The video was good and helpful though.
@@JohnPanzavecchia0001 thank you, appreciate it
Don't breathe that in lol
Yeah instant cancer lol
Your face is... invading.
Haha thanks