Thanks for the video mate, its just wonderful how clearly and patiently you explain all, just needed to ask 1 question. What all other, if any, gaskets(seals) do i need to replace during the job other than for intake manifold?
Vikram Sahu Hi Thank you for watching and for your comment, really appreciated! I believe I have already answered that question, but here it goes... Ideally I would replace every gasket or seal that gets disturbed during this procedure... simple as that... In this case, I was stuck to how much the owner wanted to spend... So that is really my advice, will only add a couple of £10 to the bill...
@@LMAutoRepairs Hello, I believe I have this same issue and was wondering where in the comments did you list the other gaskets/seals that you recommend to be changed at this time of doing this procedure, I tried to scroll through as many as I could, but didnt see where you listed the other gaskets/seals outside of the two oil cooler seals. Can you point them out to me... thanks!
@@RZiggyMarshall Is right here... fixed at the top... Ideally, you replace every single gasket/seal that gets disturbed during this procedure... Hope that helps... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
For the job, When I tackled it... I was initially hunting a boost leak but came to this situation where I knew I was already 3/4 involved in removing the manifolds. I replaced, Both intercooler seals, Seals between the anti-shudder valve, EGR seal, rings on EGR cooler, O rings on intake manifolds, Turbo boost pipe O rings, EGR gaskets, The aluminium link pipe between manifolds, intake manifold gaskets. Unfortunately, It added roughly £80 on top from merc for the seals...
Years and years later... this great video, full of tips and tricks, is going to help me to do this job (on a Jeep Gd Cherokee - same engine). Thanks for the video. I also like your 'learn as you go' approach and according explanations - nothing better than learning from your mistakes ... other than learning from somebody elses 🤩 One important piece of information missing (I think..) is not to forget to prime the turbo with oil at install or crank the engine over with the injector el. conectors removed. You would also want to prime the fuel delivery system. I guess the fact that you had to crank over 8 times saved your turbo (unless you did prime it and did not talk about it)
Fantastic Video. I like your patient methodical process. I like that you don't spend allot of time taking bolts off and wasting video time. Thanks For Your Video
Just did my 2010 sprinter ...had to clean gunk out of intakes... patience is the key..like building a house don't look at the big picture keep going until you accomplish job.
MASSIVE respect at you for this video if or when my engine needs this sorted I'll be definitely coming back to this video again thank you for your time to help others 👍👍👍👍
Respect is all I can say to tackle this type of repair in your driveway is remarkable after talking to a mechanic and how he made it seem like it was a major project which it is in my opinion. But it just goes to show anything is possible and you gave me hope to try and do it on my own ..
☺️ Indeed, it looks more complicated than it actually is... Yes, it is time consuming with a lot of stuff to go through, but as you can see, easily doable... Thank you for watching and for your comment! 👍👍👍
Great video. Very informative and helpful. Just started on my Jeep GC not much space between fire wall and turbo 😮. Will be hard to take off . Thank you
@@LMAutoRepairs you're welcome. There's 2x E12 bolts under the turbo (pointed out in the video - almost impossible to see !) Have the left one out but the one right underneath the turbo housing looks physically impossible to get access to let alone get out. Any advice as to how to remove this please ? Also the 2x T40 (?) bolts at the front of the turbo, are these T40 or a different size please ? Mine are fairly rusty and don't want to take the risk of rounding them off. T40 feels a bit loose but T45 is too large. Any help/advice really appreciated
Excellent job. I will be doing this on my 2012 E350. This will be the second time.. first time it was done by the dealer at 75k miles...car now has 167k mikes and the oil cooler is leaking again... I guess those leaks weather orange or purple... they last for about 75-100k miles. What happened to that top noch German engineering... they can’t figure out how to keep oil in the engine?
Just got the oil cooler freed up on the E350 and noticed a few (annoying) differences which are some that others may run into as well so here is the info: The exhaust side has the kat mounted directly on the turbo, so no short L pipe there. This presents a bit of a challenge since it is only to be removed after loosening a clamp which is factory wise not reachable unless you dismount the crankcase ventilation on the right back of the engine. Also as you noticed there is a bracket holding the exhaust inlet sides on the turbo with 2 bolts on the back, which should be negleckted, just go for the 2 you can do from the top and take the bracket out with it. This i the main stuff, the rest you will figure out on the way. Just make sure you get the inlet runners out together due to the system of plastic adjusters for the swirl valves. Don't want to break those! Most throuble gave me the stuff others caused due to other repairs (rounded bolts etc.)
Thanks pal, great job, just if I was you I'd have also changed the swirl flaps plastic rails as they tend to brake a lot being badly designed. The aluminium set is 80ish quid, worth investing... got same engine in my 219
@@LMAutoRepairs indeed mate indeed it was so informative your video. To encourage all your viewers, who has either cooler or swirl flaps job, it's an easy job, just takes a lot of attention to detail meaning slow slow work Hope you find a very own hobby garage.
Hi I'm amazed you know so much about car repairs considering you don't work in the motor trade .well presented video invaluable information for some one who wants tackle this job.
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to document the job so thoroughly. Reason I watched is I am possibly going to pick a 2011 GL350 Bluetech with 175k miles and a list of issues, including this oil cooler leak according to a MB dealer where the car was recently serviced. The dealer said that the oil cooler itself also needed to be replaced for a total job cost of US $3,380. Does the cooler itself typically fail? How would you determine if the cooler itself needs replacement?
Hi Usually is the seals that fail... Never seen one that the cooler was the problem... But if you are unsure, pressure test it... or replace it... They are not that expensive... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
The condition of the intake manifold is pretty good. Almost no soot and oil deposits. Fuel quality is critical here. Almost all diesel engines operating on the territory of the former USSR, have a terrifying appearance of the intake manifold and the EGR system.
Great video, great work. As I face pretty much the same problem but neither have the tools or expertise to do this myself I am wondering if you can share the time you spent for the whole repair. That would be great.
Sorry for being not careful enough reading the comments. 8 hours is pretty OK. So assuming about €110 per hour incl. VAT it will be around €900 labor work and some money of the spare parts new houses etc. I recommend to also replace the EKAS as it quite often is drained in oil.
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! please everyone reading this comment remember to replace the O ring that sits on the EGR cooler under the manifold. I did this job with my ol' man and after a long time putting it all back together the engine coolant was pissing out the bottom so we had to start all over again from the beginning 😭😭😭 learn from our mistake and purchase that seal!!!
My advice is to replace any gasket or seal that gets disturbed during this job... That way you can't go wrong... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs that is solid advice, there are alot of places the sell gaskets, flange and seals as a bulk job lot but cost extortionate amount of money for what they are, the biggy's are manifold gaskets, oil cooler seals, EGR cooler seals and jobs a good'n
Great video! I really enjoyed it. I’m about to get my done. While the engine is massively opened, I will probably replace all glow plugs, clean egr valve + complete manifolds, replace thermostat and replace that oil cooler. I don’t really see why not to replace all that while everything is open if you would want to keep the car for a while. Would you maybe have info about all those seals as a kit from MB oem parts? Thanks
Hi I have done after recording this one... There is no seals "kit" from Mercedes... you go there and ask for the seals you want... I totally agree with replace all those parts... And yes, specially if are planning to keep the car... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Huge respect for this film. I would like to do it with me and I would like to buy all the seals to buy before work. Do you have information about the numbers of seals needed for this job. I have been wondering for several months and I will try to do it for myself, even if it lasted a week.
Unfortunately I don't have any numbers... But, you can dismantle everything... and then just get all the seals you disturb during the process... At Mercedes they will show you the drawings of everything... really easy to figure out.... but you can always take the old ones... You won't take a week... believe me... Than you so much for watching, and for your comment!
I have got a ML350 AND I JUST WANNA KNOW THAT AS PER MECHANIC HE WAS TELLING ME THAT THERE WAS A LEAKAGE SO I THINK IF WE CHANGE BOTH THE O RING OIL COOLER WOULD BE OK???
You can test the oil cooler... or just replace it... they are not that expensive to be fair... that said, usually the cooler doesn't leak... it is the o-rings that do... 👍👍
Mehdi Achakane Thank you for watching! The replacement for the original orange seals, is the new purple ones, part number A642 188 05 80. Hope that helps...
Thank you for great video. I recently bought 2006 w203 and I really like to work on my own cars but without any information like torques and stuff my hands are tied. I've looked everywhere for repair manual or something for my car, without any luck. I would appreciate any info where to look. Thank you
Hi there. Quick question. I have a newer model 350 bluetec. I took off the engine cover today and noticed some crud around the pipe that just goes onto the turbo where those 2 intake pipes meet. It would be the pipe that goes into the centre of the turbo below the sticker with the QR code. It is a moist sandy type crud that's black. Just below that pipe there is also some residue. Any ideas what it could be? It is still under maintenance plan but need an honest opinion in case they tell me otherwise.
Did you take it in? I assume so since it's been 3 weeks. I don't think and shop would mess you about on such a common issue to these cars. What did they say to you and what did you do about it?
@@victorsinclair188 I did. First they said it is "sweating" and is normal but I said some residue around any part in the engine isn't normal. They did however change it still under maintenance. They also change the transmission oil even though I only have a out 38000 miles but I guess it would have been replaced had the car not been such low mileage anyway. The item to service is the one to service regardless of kms anyway I guess. Just odd as to what they service and what not. Apparently the cars computer generates a workshop code which tells them what must be serviced. So it could say change the cabin filter yet not the engine one. So odd.
Depends how quick/experienced the person doing it is... I would say, if you never did it, 12 hours or more... if you have experience and do it faster, 8 to 10... The last one I did, took me about 9 hours or so...
Hi, Early in the video you mention the breather of the pipe from the turbo, I have been told that this and the pipe can also leak so have you experienced this and are they expensive replacements. I have an E350 CDI Blueefficieny and I've seen oil around this area. One other point from watching video is should turbo bolts be replaced?
Hi Not that I am aware of... But someone that actually owns one can help out a bit more with your question... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
LM Auto Repairs I am only interested on comment from people like you meaning feed back I can trust You’re awesome I am working for Porsche in Germany at the development center so I know what you’re talking about and you’re incredible honestly I’ll keep in touch Have a good day
Hello thank you so much!! I have an E 280 CDI with OM642 from 2008. Until now i have no problems with this part. There is no oil under the car and i do not see any oil loss. Should I change it as a precaution? My car has 220.000 KM now... I would be very happy about an answer! Greetings from Germany!
I guess that if you are willing to go for it as a precaution... why not... but I guess you can also just leave it untill the seals fail... It is your decision really... I know is not a very definite reply... but hope it helps... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
As always great video and very helpful. Thank you! I have a question, how you have diagnostic the problem was on oil cooler leaking and no in other place, so what direction of diagnosis you followed?
Hi Thank you for watching! This one came already diagnosed... This however is a common problem, but, with a torch, look down around the turbo, you will be able to see the end ofvthe engine block and the area where the oil accumulates, so if you see oil in there, bingo! It might be other ways, that is my one... lol Hope that helps...
Ohh man, have also replaced the seals with Purple (much stiffer ) bolted the oil cooler with 6nm, after two weeks much bigger leak. Appeard to be purple seals gone bad.. Got me another pair of Orange seals and did the job again. Any of you had this???
@@LMAutoRepairs can you please give some tips on how insert the cable camera and reach the oil cooler? Someone claimed to have fitted one for me but his tech told me he hasn't he just changed the gaskets
I just did this work on my personal 2013 E350 Bluetec. Apparently they put some GL350 parts that are normally not in a regular Bluetec. When I look up certain parts to get the numbers it shows it does not fit my car. The build date is 10/12. My motor has a oil changeover intake near the front. It also has a 1 piece instead of the 2 piece exhaust pipe that attaches to the back of the turbo. A little harder to get out due to the lack of room, but still managed. MB also put in the orange seals instead of the purple ones. I thought they found out the the orange ones would leak and no longer installed them on later model years. Do you know anything about that or did I get the wrong information on the year. Your video was great and very helpful especially the torque numbers.
Hi Get the purple ones... here in the UK for example, you should not even be able to get hold of the orange ones... at least not at the dealer... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
LM Auto Repairs I bought the Erling kit which comes with the purple ones. I also installed a new MB oil cooler. I just thought my year and model they had stopped installing the orange ones from when the cars were built. I am going to research it a little more. If MB already knew and still put part in, maybe I can recoup some of my cost. I’ll keep you posted.
Hi As I have explained in the video... The newer seals resolved the issue... not sure from when they have been fitted... I would guess that 2014 should have the new seals.... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
If you watched the entire video, you would see that I left the same oil cooler... The seals are what are common to fail... Obviously check the cooler for leaks, and replace is necessary... Thank you for watching!
Well... the constant losing of oil is to start dangerous... As the car will be dropping oil on the road... Consequentemente, the need of topping it up constantly... The drop in oil pressure as well, can eventually cause running problems... I would get it repaired... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Good video mate! I was wondering if you’ve changed the oil cooler as well, or just the two purple oil seals? I’ve just finished this job on my e320, changed the purple O ring seals, and intake gaskets but I think the oil leak it’s still present- 3 days after the job was done I’ve seen some oil drops on the ground, under the car. I did not used a torque wrench on the cooler bolts...do you think that can be a problem? Thanks in advance Vilmos
Hi I have done this job a few times, but have never changed the cooler... I have always checked them for leaks though... It can take some time for all the oil to come of from all the conducts/drains... so allow a few more days.... Hope that helps. Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Would you recommend this job for DIY guy with a set of tools, tons of videos and docs about it? I'm only scared about the fuel system, that I can break it and the car won't start...
Hi I am a DIY guy...😋 You have seen how I did... the fuel system, the only sensible place is the top of the injectors... but if you do it carefully shouldn't be a problem... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Hi Great Video,lots of detailed info,do you know where I would be able to buy the Turbo bolts from,I have already got the gaskets from here there and everywhere as Mercedes have been closed,bolts of Turbo were tough and I woud like to renew them ,would appreciate your advice.Thanks.
Hi again,could you please tell me what size the Rail nuts and injector nuts sizes are please?Looks like 18 mm but im working on a mercedes s class 0M642 .Thanks
😮 Hope no one followed hat torque setting! Just corrected it after double checking.... Don't know how I got it wrong... Thank you so much for highlight my mistake! 👍👍👍
When you put everything back together, and primed the fuel system, and the car just completely refused to start - that was terrifying. You got any clues as to why it took over 10 trys before it started?
The fuel systems get empty when you disassemble it... so it is normal that the car takes a few attempts to fill the system and fires up... This engine has 2 rails, etc... so is a fair big system to fill... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Hi Buddy, Just a quick question, when ordering all the seals from main dealer will they automatically give the purple viton seals or do I have to ask them for it? They told my garage guys to get all seals replaced together on a job like this one. And as for peace of mind I am also getting the oil cooler replaced with a new one too. I have a 2008 model E320 CDI with OM642 engine. Looking forward to your reply many thanks?? 😊.
They should give you the purple ones... unless they still have some old stock... In that case, specify that you want the upgraded ones... And yes, I would recommend to replace any seals or gaskets that get distributed during this job... Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs Thank you so much for prompt response.. I will be in touch with my garage & tell them to make sure they get the purple ones. Also will get the swirl flap motor replaced as old one not working.. And garage is charging me for 5 hours labour cost @£58.00 per hour.. Many thanks 😊🙏
@@LMAutoRepairs Thats good to know buddy as I was confused at first as some forums say 10 hours+ but then I realised that was DIY at home.. Fully qualified mechanic's will know their way round quicker I guess.. Thank you so much for all the information & quick reply 😊 I feel much better now 😌 Hope you & your family are well & safe.... Stay safe bud 🤝 Kind regards Jay.
Is not even about knowing their way round... Is more about having the right tools etc... The last one I did took me about 8 hours... Well, had to stop to pick up the girls from school, listen to the missus... you know... lol Anyway, hope you have it sorted soon! 👍👍👍
Thank you for the advices,in Renault vel satis question.I did ordered,zed -bull for a start,it come to me in december.I have the broken one old 3button key but it does not work,the key flashes when I press it.what tools I have to bay more you think?
Hi this 3.b,key com with the velsatis when I bought the car, it was broken half,I fix it,know flashing but not talking with the car.I have good 2.B key I using this long timer.I have decided to bay used one 3.B key,and this one i want set up to my car,this is the question how,and what tools I need?renault can clip?I found on internet 3,B key the Man send me when I want to.But first I want to know how to do this.At the handbrake which tools can rewrite the ECU?You can reach me on skype:zsolt.csaplar1Thanks!
My car doesn't leak oil but the coolant in the reservoir is milkshaky brown so oil has mixed with coolant so should i replace the seals only or the whole cooler
Great video! I'm looking to purchase a mercedes clk 2008 or 2009 year not sure which engine to go for, can you provide any advice and tips on what to look out for? Which engine is more reliable? 220 which has the om646 engine? or the 320 om642 engine? Thanks!
.none. Hi Thank you for watching! I think you would be better to find the answers of someone that actually owns one of those cars... I never done engine work on the 220... nevertheless, the 320 seems a robust engine... obviously has its flaws, like this seals...
Hi Buddy, i am back again. Kindly advise me what tool would i have to use the change the two cam housing plugs at the top of the camshaft cover. One of mine is leaking !!
Hi Sir I have a mercedes r320 cdi. Over the last seven months or so I have noticed engine oil stains on my driveway,. I have taken it to few workshops but they were unable to figure out where the oil was coming from and decided to not investigate further. I drive my car regularly and have never encountered any issues or warning lights on my dashboard. I have watched your video and first of all thank you for sharing your knowledge. I believe my car has a similar issue. will this get worst in future or will the leak stay minor? i would appreciate your response
Thanks for the video, very good reference as i have to do the job myself to save $3000. 2 questions. Are the torque numbers the same for the ML320? Looks very similar. What needs to be done with respect to fuel under pressure in the rails and fuel lines before removing? Cheers.
Hi I would say the torques should be the same... same engine after all... As for the common rail lines, just make sure you keep the key out of the ignition, and leave the car alone for 5 or 10 minutes before start to undo the lines.. the pressure will be gone by then... Thank you for watching!
Hello, any issue regarding the turbo with om642 engine? I just purchased a second jeep grand cherokee with this engine with turbo problem it could be related to the oil cooler? I was stuck with my small familly in the middle of the national road within a country side around farm running on idle. Thanks for your help
Esposito John Hi I can't see how the oil cooler would affect the turbo... unless you would loose that much oil that the turbo would ran dry... but you would have bigger issues by then... Plus probably a bunch of warning lights for oil pressure, lever etc... Have you removed the intake to inspect?
Thanks for the video mate, its just wonderful how clearly and patiently you explain all, just needed to ask 1 question. What all other, if any, gaskets(seals) do i need to replace during the job other than for intake manifold?
Vikram Sahu
Hi
Thank you for watching and for your comment, really appreciated!
I believe I have already answered that question, but here it goes...
Ideally I would replace every gasket or seal that gets disturbed during this procedure... simple as that...
In this case, I was stuck to how much the owner wanted to spend...
So that is really my advice, will only add a couple of £10 to the bill...
@@LMAutoRepairs Hello, I believe I have this same issue and was wondering where in the comments did you list the other gaskets/seals that you recommend to be changed at this time of doing this procedure, I tried to scroll through as many as I could, but didnt see where you listed the other gaskets/seals outside of the two oil cooler seals. Can you point them out to me... thanks!
@@RZiggyMarshall
Is right here... fixed at the top...
Ideally, you replace every single gasket/seal that gets disturbed during this procedure...
Hope that helps...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
For the job, When I tackled it... I was initially hunting a boost leak but came to this situation where I knew I was already 3/4 involved in removing the manifolds. I replaced, Both intercooler seals, Seals between the anti-shudder valve, EGR seal, rings on EGR cooler, O rings on intake manifolds, Turbo boost pipe O rings, EGR gaskets, The aluminium link pipe between manifolds, intake manifold gaskets. Unfortunately, It added roughly £80 on top from merc for the seals...
Once you get that "deep", better just do it...lol
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I know you did this 5 years ago, but I have just got a CLS and needed some help so thank you so much for sharing this job .
☺️
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Years and years later... this great video, full of tips and tricks, is going to help me to do this job (on a Jeep Gd Cherokee - same engine). Thanks for the video.
I also like your 'learn as you go' approach and according explanations - nothing better than learning from your mistakes ... other than learning from somebody elses 🤩
One important piece of information missing (I think..) is not to forget to prime the turbo with oil at install or crank the engine over with the injector el. conectors removed.
You would also want to prime the fuel delivery system. I guess the fact that you had to crank over 8 times saved your turbo (unless you did prime it and did not talk about it)
Thanks!
Hope you go through yours swiftly...
😊
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Fantastic Video. I like your patient methodical process. I like that you don't spend allot of time taking bolts off and wasting video time. Thanks For Your Video
😊
Thank you, for watching and for your comment!
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Thank you so much. Now I feel confident to tackle this after acquiring all the parts and extra tools. Cheers!
That's great!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
you’re a very patient and detailed person, I applaud you for this and thank you so much for sharing.
patrick jean
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Let people know, Once the diesel fuel lines are exposed to air it'll take awhile to start.Air will need to be taken out of the lines . Great video !
Indeed... that's why it tooke a bit on the first start...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
As a past Benz tech, I DO NOT miss this repair job.
Quite labour intensive...😓
Thank you for watching!
Just did my 2010 sprinter ...had to clean gunk out of intakes... patience is the key..like building a house don't look at the big picture keep going until you accomplish job.
Absolutely correct!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Thanks for taking the time to record this repair, It is great reference material and Better than any workshop manual...
Mike James
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Thank you for taking the time to demystify this expensive dealer repair. Mistery no more :)
Charlie Janicki
Lol
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
MASSIVE respect at you for this video if or when my engine needs this sorted I'll be definitely coming back to this video again thank you for your time to help others 👍👍👍👍
Thanks sir...
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Respect is all I can say to tackle this type of repair in your driveway is remarkable after talking to a mechanic and how he made it seem like it was a major project which it is in my opinion. But it just goes to show anything is possible and you gave me hope to try and do it on my own ..
☺️
Indeed, it looks more complicated than it actually is...
Yes, it is time consuming with a lot of stuff to go through, but as you can see, easily doable...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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Great video. Very informative and helpful. Just started on my Jeep GC not much space between fire wall and turbo 😮. Will be hard to take off . Thank you
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Google luck!
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Brilliant, thank You so much for this video.....just saved me 1300€! Thats the prize i was given from a repair shop in Finland.
That's great!
You can share some...😉
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Brilliant job Imsvvavr. What a lot of knowledge for teaching. Very patient & clear. Most grateful!!
Colin Aglae
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Super helpful. Many thanks for taking the time to reord and go through this. It's really appreciated
No problem...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs you're welcome. There's 2x E12 bolts under the turbo (pointed out in the video - almost impossible to see !) Have the left one out but the one right underneath the turbo housing looks physically impossible to get access to let alone get out. Any advice as to how to remove this please ? Also the 2x T40 (?) bolts at the front of the turbo, are these T40 or a different size please ? Mine are fairly rusty and don't want to take the risk of rounding them off. T40 feels a bit loose but T45 is too large. Any help/advice really appreciated
@@Lee_Pitcher
Pass... done this quite some time ago...
Sorry...
you are pure genius man.for car electric and mechanic as well-i enjou in this kind a video
ivan basic
Thank so so much for you comment!
And obviously for watching and follow the channel!
no problem man i am big fan of your video-i watched all
Job very well done mate, thanks for the detailed perspective and precise methodology . Its quite a learning experience, thanks again.
Much appreciated!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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Excellent job. I will be doing this on my 2012 E350. This will be the second time.. first time it was done by the dealer at 75k miles...car now has 167k mikes and the oil cooler is leaking again... I guess those leaks weather orange or purple... they last for about 75-100k miles. What happened to that top noch German engineering... they can’t figure out how to keep oil in the engine?
🤣🤣🤣
Nice... at least you know exactly what to do... good to know that the revised seals also fail...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Just got the oil cooler freed up on the E350 and noticed a few (annoying) differences which are some that others may run into as well so here is the info: The exhaust side has the kat mounted directly on the turbo, so no short L pipe there. This presents a bit of a challenge since it is only to be removed after loosening a clamp which is factory wise not reachable unless you dismount the crankcase ventilation on the right back of the engine. Also as you noticed there is a bracket holding the exhaust inlet sides on the turbo with 2 bolts on the back, which should be negleckted, just go for the 2 you can do from the top and take the bracket out with it. This i the main stuff, the rest you will figure out on the way. Just make sure you get the inlet runners out together due to the system of plastic adjusters for the swirl valves. Don't want to break those! Most throuble gave me the stuff others caused due to other repairs (rounded bolts etc.)
HSM Autoservice
Excellent piece of information... thank you for sharing it!
Thanks pal, great job, just if I was you I'd have also changed the swirl flaps plastic rails as they tend to brake a lot being badly designed. The aluminium set is 80ish quid, worth investing... got same engine in my 219
Agree...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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@@LMAutoRepairs indeed mate indeed it was so informative your video. To encourage all your viewers, who has either cooler or swirl flaps job, it's an easy job, just takes a lot of attention to detail meaning slow slow work
Hope you find a very own hobby garage.
@@k.t.8084
Thanks!
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Hi I'm amazed you know so much about car repairs considering you don't work in the motor trade .well presented video invaluable information for some one who wants tackle this job.
Geoffrey Rawlings
Hi
Thank you for watching and for your comment... much appreciated!
Thanks so much for share it. I found it very useful. Great job!
Thanks!
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Great video. Thank you for taking the time to document the job so thoroughly.
Reason I watched is I am possibly going to pick a 2011 GL350 Bluetech with 175k miles and a list of issues, including this oil cooler leak according to a MB dealer where the car was recently serviced. The dealer said that the oil cooler itself also needed to be replaced for a total job cost of US $3,380. Does the cooler itself typically fail? How would you determine if the cooler itself needs replacement?
Hi
Usually is the seals that fail...
Never seen one that the cooler was the problem...
But if you are unsure, pressure test it... or replace it...
They are not that expensive...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
This is a great video, will be using it to get to my coolant leak from I think the oil cooler
That's great, hope you get it sorted.
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
A swirl flap link-bar and motor would have been a usefull job while all that was removed for your access!...Warton Lancs
It would indeed!
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Great work! There aren't much people who would share something like seen on your videos!
Nsolutions
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Very well explained thank you for this hard work
No worries!
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Hi,mate I just thinking needs change oil cooler seals,or change cooler as well?
Thanks
@@tomasmelinis2125
Already answered on your other comment...
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A great video and well explained, thank you for sharing
Thanks!
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I just watched it. Great job Luis.
Thanks Pawel!
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solid video bro. my 2008 jeep has this engine. Im about to do this. thanks
Hi
Hope you go through smoothly...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
The condition of the intake manifold is pretty good. Almost no soot and oil deposits. Fuel quality is critical here. Almost all diesel engines operating on the territory of the former USSR, have a terrifying appearance of the intake manifold and the EGR system.
😊
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Great video, great work. As I face pretty much the same problem but neither have the tools or expertise to do this myself I am wondering if you can share the time you spent for the whole repair. That would be great.
Ingo Schneider
Hi
Thank you for watching...
The answer is just a few comments below...
Sorry for being not careful enough reading the comments. 8 hours is pretty OK. So assuming about €110 per hour incl. VAT it will be around €900 labor work and some money of the spare parts new houses etc. I recommend to also replace the EKAS as it quite often is drained in oil.
I haven't charged a fraction of that... need to revise my rates... LOL
I have been told by a local dealer to expect cost of €4.5k!!!
Ingo Schneider
😲 what?
Bring to me... I will do it for 1/4 of the price....
Now I understand why you told me check if the cooler seals have been changed 😉😋👍👍👍 cheers Luís
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FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! please everyone reading this comment remember to replace the O ring that sits on the EGR cooler under the manifold. I did this job with my ol' man and after a long time putting it all back together the engine coolant was pissing out the bottom so we had to start all over again from the beginning 😭😭😭 learn from our mistake and purchase that seal!!!
My advice is to replace any gasket or seal that gets disturbed during this job...
That way you can't go wrong...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs that is solid advice, there are alot of places the sell gaskets, flange and seals as a bulk job lot but cost extortionate amount of money for what they are, the biggy's are manifold gaskets, oil cooler seals, EGR cooler seals and jobs a good'n
Great video! I really enjoyed it.
I’m about to get my done. While the engine is massively opened, I will probably replace all glow plugs, clean egr valve + complete manifolds, replace thermostat and replace that oil cooler. I don’t really see why not to replace all that while everything is open if you would want to keep the car for a while. Would you maybe have info about all those seals as a kit from MB oem parts? Thanks
Hi
I have done after recording this one...
There is no seals "kit" from Mercedes... you go there and ask for the seals you want...
I totally agree with replace all those parts...
And yes, specially if are planning to keep the car...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
LM Auto Repairs would you be able to do this on mine E350 OM642 ? I’ll get the parts, you let me know the price for labour! Thank you
@@ulyseenardin
I am quite busy right now... sorry...
Helpful video. What torque sequence did you do the intake manifold
Hi
Torques in the video description...
Thank you for watching and for your comment.
Huge respect for this film. I would like to do it with me and I would like to buy all the seals to buy before work. Do you have information about the numbers of seals needed for this job. I have been wondering for several months and I will try to do it for myself, even if it lasted a week.
Unfortunately I don't have any numbers...
But, you can dismantle everything... and then just get all the seals you disturb during the process...
At Mercedes they will show you the drawings of everything... really easy to figure out.... but you can always take the old ones...
You won't take a week... believe me...
Than you so much for watching, and for your comment!
Great job, really enjoyed your video. Well done
Thank you!
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I have got a ML350 AND I JUST WANNA KNOW THAT AS PER MECHANIC HE WAS TELLING ME THAT THERE WAS A LEAKAGE SO I THINK IF WE CHANGE BOTH THE O RING OIL COOLER WOULD BE OK???
You can test the oil cooler... or just replace it... they are not that expensive to be fair... that said, usually the cooler doesn't leak... it is the o-rings that do...
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Thanks for d help sir
A well presented and and detailed description.
😊
Thanks!
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DZIEKUJE!! BARDZO DOBRY FILMIK!!
Dziękuję za uwagę i za komentarz!
Well done! Best available tutorial! Keep up!
Deividas B
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Thank you for the detailed video... can you please post the seal you will recommend changing with the part number if possible?
Mehdi Achakane
Thank you for watching!
The replacement for the original orange seals, is the new purple ones, part number A642 188 05 80.
Hope that helps...
Thank you for great video. I recently bought 2006 w203 and I really like to work on my own cars but without any information like torques and stuff my hands are tied. I've looked everywhere for repair manual or something for my car, without any luck. I would appreciate any info where to look. Thank you
Should you not bleed the fuel system with a diagnostic tool before starting?
Hi there. Quick question. I have a newer model 350 bluetec. I took off the engine cover today and noticed some crud around the pipe that just goes onto the turbo where those 2 intake pipes meet. It would be the pipe that goes into the centre of the turbo below the sticker with the QR code. It is a moist sandy type crud that's black. Just below that pipe there is also some residue. Any ideas what it could be? It is still under maintenance plan but need an honest opinion in case they tell me otherwise.
Did you take it in? I assume so since it's been 3 weeks. I don't think and shop would mess you about on such a common issue to these cars. What did they say to you and what did you do about it?
@@victorsinclair188 I did. First they said it is "sweating" and is normal but I said some residue around any part in the engine isn't normal. They did however change it still under maintenance. They also change the transmission oil even though I only have a out 38000 miles but I guess it would have been replaced had the car not been such low mileage anyway. The item to service is the one to service regardless of kms anyway I guess. Just odd as to what they service and what not. Apparently the cars computer generates a workshop code which tells them what must be serviced. So it could say change the cabin filter yet not the engine one. So odd.
Hi there,
Another awesome video :-) but what a big work for 2x stupids seals isn't
Regards from Belgium
Absolutely!
They should have made them more reliable from the beginning...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
how long approximately to do the job if you already have all the seals and tools?
Depends how quick/experienced the person doing it is...
I would say, if you never did it, 12 hours or more... if you have experience and do it faster, 8 to 10...
The last one I did, took me about 9 hours or so...
really well explained thank you
Thank you for watching!
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Hi, Early in the video you mention the breather of the pipe from the turbo, I have been told that this and the pipe can also leak so have you experienced this and are they expensive replacements. I have an E350 CDI Blueefficieny and I've seen oil around this area. One other point from watching video is should turbo bolts be replaced?
When i can book my cls to have same job done please ? You far away of CV227 ?
Hi there,
Question please,
Except this problem you show is that engine good
Meaning do he have some other well know problems ?
Regards
Hi
Not that I am aware of...
But someone that actually owns one can help out a bit more with your question...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
LM Auto Repairs I am only interested on comment from people like you meaning feed back I can trust
You’re awesome
I am working for Porsche in Germany at the development center so I know what you’re talking about and you’re incredible honestly
I’ll keep in touch
Have a good day
@@christopheveriter4557
Thanks!
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Thank you for sharing. I'm dealing with this issue on the 2012 ML350 bluetec right now. -_-"
CookJunkie
Hi
You will get it sorted...
Thank you for watching!
Do you know if Mercedes sorted the issue in later models?
@@SDav21 Don't think so, it happens with newer models, with purple seals already installed.
@@nico-toscani oh no. :-(
Hello thank you so much!! I have an E 280 CDI with OM642 from 2008. Until now i have no problems with this part. There is no oil under the car and i do not see any oil loss. Should I change it as a precaution? My car has 220.000 KM now...
I would be very happy about an answer!
Greetings from Germany!
I guess that if you are willing to go for it as a precaution... why not... but I guess you can also just leave it untill the seals fail...
It is your decision really...
I know is not a very definite reply... but hope it helps...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
LM Auto Repairs thank you for your answer! I will wait until the problem appears... it is to much work 😂
@@tunaaa94
Lol... indeed!
As always great video and very helpful. Thank you! I have a question, how you have diagnostic the problem was on oil cooler leaking and no in other place, so what direction of diagnosis you followed?
Hi
Thank you for watching!
This one came already diagnosed...
This however is a common problem, but, with a torch, look down around the turbo, you will be able to see the end ofvthe engine block and the area where the oil accumulates, so if you see oil in there, bingo!
It might be other ways, that is my one... lol
Hope that helps...
Hello any idea on how long the repair would take
Depends...
But I would say around 8 to 10 hours...
Less if you are fast...
Thank you for watching!
Thank you
Ohh man, have also replaced the seals with Purple (much stiffer ) bolted the oil cooler with 6nm, after two weeks much bigger leak. Appeard to be purple seals gone bad.. Got me another pair of Orange seals and did the job again. Any of you had this???
That's strange... I have done a few using the purple ones, and never had any issues...
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Fantastic Job thanks TOP
Thanks!
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it is possible to check the air cooler with a cable or borescope camera before you take anything apart?
Yes... you can...
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@@LMAutoRepairs can you please give some tips on how insert the cable camera and reach the oil cooler? Someone claimed to have fitted one for me but his tech told me he hasn't he just changed the gaskets
@@MrWmo1975 there are couple of places to put cable in. Just look. You can always remove the fuel filter to get more area to investigate.
My car(E 280 benz) is oil comeing starter moter behind hole .this is oil coller problem ?
This particular issue is singular to the OM642 engine...
Not sure which engine you have...
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Great job. Would this be possible you to fix this issue in my car.
Thank you
This is a part time for me...
And to be fair, I am quite busy at the moment.
Sorry...
@@LMAutoRepairs would you advise what I should expect to pay for this job done.
I just did this work on my personal 2013 E350 Bluetec. Apparently they put some GL350 parts that are normally not in a regular Bluetec. When I look up certain parts to get the numbers it shows it does not fit my car. The build date is 10/12.
My motor has a oil changeover intake near the front. It also has a 1 piece instead of the 2 piece exhaust pipe that attaches to the back of the turbo. A little harder to get out due to the lack of room, but still managed.
MB also put in the orange seals instead of the purple ones. I thought they found out the the orange ones would leak and no longer installed them on later model years. Do you know anything about that or did I get the wrong information on the year.
Your video was great and very helpful especially the torque numbers.
Hi
Get the purple ones... here in the UK for example, you should not even be able to get hold of the orange ones... at least not at the dealer...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
LM Auto Repairs
I bought the Erling kit which comes with the purple ones. I also installed a new MB oil cooler. I just thought my year and model they had stopped installing the orange ones from when the cars were built. I am going to research it a little more. If MB already knew and still put part in, maybe I can recoup some of my cost. I’ll keep you posted.
@@micarro3441
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Is it critical to drain the oil first? Or change it shortly after the job?
I would change it after the job...
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Do you know if Mercedes fixed the issue by changing the seal on later models for example the W212 E Class facelift from 2014 onwards.
Hi
As I have explained in the video...
The newer seals resolved the issue... not sure from when they have been fitted... I would guess that 2014 should have the new seals....
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs Thanks. I hope Mercedes used the new seal type from the factory.
Nice job
But sir please can you tell me that the car was not starting and you puse the video in that time what you did to start the car
waqas razzaq
Thank you for watching!
I did exactly what I have said... I have just carried on cranking... it tooke me probably about 10 attempts...
Hi mate,I’m just bit confused needs change only seals? Or change all kit oil cooler&seals?
Thanks
If you watched the entire video, you would see that I left the same oil cooler...
The seals are what are common to fail...
Obviously check the cooler for leaks, and replace is necessary...
Thank you for watching!
1 question if not repaired can it cause any serious trouble ?
Well... the constant losing of oil is to start dangerous... As the car will be dropping oil on the road...
Consequentemente, the need of topping it up constantly...
The drop in oil pressure as well, can eventually cause running problems...
I would get it repaired...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Good day, did you oil the new seals for installation like you would for an o-ring?
No need...
But you can do it... doesn't really makes a difference...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs thank you very much for your reply!
@@mikhailjoukov3910
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Good video mate! I was wondering if you’ve changed the oil cooler as well, or just the two purple oil seals?
I’ve just finished this job on my e320, changed the purple O ring seals, and intake gaskets but I think the oil leak it’s still present- 3 days after the job was done I’ve seen some oil drops on the ground, under the car. I did not used a torque wrench on the cooler bolts...do you think that can be a problem?
Thanks in advance
Vilmos
Hi
I have done this job a few times, but have never changed the cooler... I have always checked them for leaks though...
It can take some time for all the oil to come of from all the conducts/drains... so allow a few more days....
Hope that helps.
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Thank you so much my friend
😊
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Do I need to change the oil cooler also?
Not necessarily... if is in good shape there is no need...
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Would you recommend this job for DIY guy with a set of tools, tons of videos and docs about it? I'm only scared about the fuel system, that I can break it and the car won't start...
Hi
I am a DIY guy...😋
You have seen how I did... the fuel system, the only sensible place is the top of the injectors... but if you do it carefully shouldn't be a problem...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Thanks for the video and the answer ! :)
Hi Great Video,lots of detailed info,do you know where I would be able to buy the Turbo bolts from,I have already got the gaskets from here there and everywhere as Mercedes have been closed,bolts of Turbo were tough and I woud like to renew them ,would appreciate your advice.Thanks.
Not really sure other than Mercedes...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
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Hi Many thanks.
Hi again,could you please tell me what size the Rail nuts and injector nuts sizes are please?Looks like 18 mm but im working on a mercedes s class 0M642 .Thanks
Hi the mercedes WIS system list the turbo to pedestal torque as 20NM plus 60 degrees, not sure where you got your figures from?
😮
Hope no one followed hat torque setting!
Just corrected it after double checking....
Don't know how I got it wrong...
Thank you so much for highlight my mistake!
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When you put everything back together, and primed the fuel system, and the car just completely refused to start - that was terrifying. You got any clues as to why it took over 10 trys before it started?
The fuel systems get empty when you disassemble it... so it is normal that the car takes a few attempts to fill the system and fires up...
This engine has 2 rails, etc... so is a fair big system to fill...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
Great video, very helpful. Well done.
Mr Fixit
Thank you!
How much would you charge to do same job to my Chrysler 300 crd? If I supply all parts...
I don't charge a lot... but to be honest, I don't have the time right now...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
What torque specs are egr cooler to manifold please
See video description...
Thank you for watching!
Oh sorry taught that's egr valve that goes on to manifold too
Took that off gor cleaning as well, what specs are there bud please
Hi Buddy,
Just a quick question, when ordering all the seals from main dealer will they automatically give the purple viton seals or do I have to ask them for it?
They told my garage guys to get all seals replaced together on a job like this one.
And as for peace of mind I am also getting the oil cooler replaced with a new one too.
I have a 2008 model E320 CDI with OM642 engine.
Looking forward to your reply many thanks?? 😊.
They should give you the purple ones... unless they still have some old stock...
In that case, specify that you want the upgraded ones...
And yes, I would recommend to replace any seals or gaskets that get distributed during this job...
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
@@LMAutoRepairs Thank you so much for prompt response..
I will be in touch with my garage & tell them to make sure they get the purple ones.
Also will get the swirl flap motor replaced as old one not working..
And garage is charging me for 5 hours labour cost @£58.00 per hour..
Many thanks 😊🙏
5 hours sound about right...
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@@LMAutoRepairs
Thats good to know buddy as I was confused at first as some forums say 10 hours+ but then I realised that was DIY at home..
Fully qualified mechanic's will know their way round quicker I guess..
Thank you so much for all the information & quick reply 😊
I feel much better now 😌
Hope you & your family are well & safe....
Stay safe bud 🤝
Kind regards
Jay.
Is not even about knowing their way round...
Is more about having the right tools etc...
The last one I did took me about 8 hours... Well, had to stop to pick up the girls from school, listen to the missus... you know... lol
Anyway, hope you have it sorted soon!
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I had that same breakdown 4 years ago with 170,000 km and my mechanic changed my oil radiator because he said that they went bad and were oval
Just the seals on this one...😉
Thank you for watching!
Thank you for the advices,in Renault vel satis question.I did ordered,zed -bull for a start,it come to me in december.I have the broken one old 3button key but it does not work,the key flashes when I press it.what tools I have to bay more you think?
Zsolt Csaplar
Are you sure that is not a broken card?
Have looked at the live data to see if the car is seeing the key?
Hi this 3.b,key com with the velsatis when I bought the car, it was broken half,I fix it,know flashing but not talking with the car.I have good 2.B key I using this long timer.I have decided to bay used one 3.B key,and this one i want set up to my car,this is the question how,and what tools I need?renault can clip?I found on internet 3,B key the Man send me when I want to.But first I want to know how to do this.At the handbrake which tools can rewrite the ECU?You can reach me on skype:zsolt.csaplar1Thanks!
Zsolt Csaplar
Clip will be able to do it...
Well done mate, i just purchased a jeep with same engine what is the symptom regarding the oil cooler?
Esposito John
Hi
A puddle of oil under the car....
Thank you for watching!
i have the same motor, but oil is in coolant, is that the same issue?
It can get mixed in there... if the cooler is split inside..
You need to check it...
Thank you for watching!
Hi there how much labor? Cost
It is an intensive labour job...
All depends on the rates...
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My car doesn't leak oil but the coolant in the reservoir is milkshaky brown so oil has mixed with coolant so should i replace the seals only or the whole cooler
JAY DALAL
Hi
Once the cooler is out, test it, is is passing change it as well...
Thank you for watching!
LM Auto Repairs how to test it outside
JAY DALAL
Find a way of pressurise the water side... and see if the water gets to the oil side...
Great video! I'm looking to purchase a mercedes clk 2008 or 2009 year not sure which engine to go for, can you provide any advice and tips on what to look out for? Which engine is more reliable? 220 which has the om646 engine? or the 320 om642 engine?
Thanks!
.none.
Hi
Thank you for watching!
I think you would be better to find the answers of someone that actually owns one of those cars... I never done engine work on the 220... nevertheless, the 320 seems a robust engine... obviously has its flaws, like this seals...
Awesome video! How much you charge to do this job?
Can't really remember now..
Thank you for watching!
Hello, a very good video. I will recommend your channel. I have this pb on my e320 cdi. Do you have a garage or do you work at your own count?
Hi
No... I do this as a part time on my drive way...lol
Thank you for watching and for your comment!
LM Auto Repairs
Ok so you can’t indicate me a good garage to do that ?
@@azizkad2805
Dealer will do it.... lol
I don't know, anyone with a good reputation should fly through this job...
Does anyone know if this issue is fixed on the W221 S350 cdi from 2011/2012?
Great video, the W164 CDI is a terrible design, with all that stuff hidden in the valley of the engine!
this V6 engine is a big waste of time !
Hi Buddy, i am back again. Kindly advise me what tool would i have to use the change the two cam housing plugs at the top of the camshaft cover.
One of mine is leaking !!
You are a legend sir!
😊
Thanks!
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Thanks, very good video!
Thanks!
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Super!! bonjour de la France !! Merci beaucoup
gericom 11
Thank you for watching!
I just subscribed.
Thanks for another repair
Thank you! hope you enjoy and share the channel!
:-)
Hi Sir
I have a mercedes r320 cdi. Over the last seven months or so I have noticed engine oil stains on my driveway,. I have taken it to few workshops but they were unable to figure out where the oil was coming from and decided to not investigate further. I drive my car regularly and have never encountered any issues or warning lights on my dashboard.
I have watched your video and first of all thank you for sharing your knowledge. I believe my car has a similar issue. will this get worst in future or will the leak stay minor? i would appreciate your response
Hi
It will most likely get worse over time...
So, you will see oil dripping just by having the car at idle...
Hope that helps.
Thank you for watching!
@@LMAutoRepairs what is rough cost to fix this kind of repair?
Don't know... I mean, is quite labour intense... so any garage will charge you at least 1 day of work...
Just guessing though....
Thanks for the video, very good reference as i have to do the job myself to save $3000. 2 questions. Are the torque numbers the same for the ML320? Looks very similar. What needs to be done with respect to fuel under pressure in the rails and fuel lines before removing? Cheers.
Hi
I would say the torques should be the same... same engine after all...
As for the common rail lines, just make sure you keep the key out of the ignition, and leave the car alone for 5 or 10 minutes before start to undo the lines.. the pressure will be gone by then...
Thank you for watching!
Hello, any issue regarding the turbo with om642 engine? I just purchased a second jeep grand cherokee with this engine with turbo problem it could be related to the oil cooler? I was stuck with my small familly in the middle of the national road within a country side around farm running on idle.
Thanks for your help
Esposito John
Hi
I can't see how the oil cooler would affect the turbo... unless you would loose that much oil that the turbo would ran dry... but you would have bigger issues by then...
Plus probably a bunch of warning lights for oil pressure, lever etc...
Have you removed the intake to inspect?
lmsvvavr not yet but i’ll remove the intake for a check, thanks for your help
Where are you based in the uk?
Cambridgeshire...
But I do this as a part time...
What are you looking for?
Thank you for watching!