I know this is an old video, who knows if you still look at these comments but this video has helped me immensely. I've just rebuilt my turbo, c350 cdi 265ps which is exactly the same using an ali express part and it's perfect, more responsive than ever. Thank you sir!!!
Still going to be using filler music for time lapses, but i'm using new editing software now that lowers the volume considerably. Thanks for the feedback!
wow, the om648 uses the gt23/59v. excellent video. the vnt turbos are very rebuidable. I rebuilt my gt2359 with parts from turbo international ($170 for tshaft&rebuild kit) . the actuator was tricky, replacing the internal connections takes patients. but $170 vs $1600 + reprogramming is good motivation.
That’s awesome man. I do not own a diesel right now. But I am a TN dealer in Chattanooga. Check out my video of the 2006 cdi I drove and bid on at auction 11 mos ago. 2600 bucks. Amazing car. I expect your channel will surge today Thanks to legit. Oh and one more thing. I also work for a company called turbotech in Chattanooga. We sell reman parts to Detroit diesel for rebuilding turbos. The Chinese are finally giving us a decent competitive part
Daveks3 performance upgrades are not my specialty, so I'm not sure! If so, it's going to have a seriously hard time fitting in turbo land, due to the very tight tolerances that turbo recesses into the top of the engine.
Gaskets are not reusable, they''re beveled to form an airtight seal on assembly. Also new stainless bolts are highly adviced trust me. Of course new pcv heater gasket & the charge intake gasket unless you want a faulty M55 in the near future :) Having done many turbojobs on the 642, i've not seen the inside of one yet, thanks for the video :)
Kasper stainless spring steel is absolutely re-useable as long as it's still maintaining it's spring-ability. The rest of the o-rings were replaced. This turbo was rebuilt the same time I was doing the oil cooler seal job, so the swirl flaps and motor was deleted, new pcv fitted, new intake seals, etc. No seals were reused except the spring steel one I mentioned in the turbo. :)
Excellent and informative video - thank you!. I'm currently replacing the turbo actuator and will save this video for future should need arise for me to rebuild the turbo and save a ton of cash!.
I read that intake by 100k km starts to release cast particles and they damage turbo, if you don't replace intake, it will continue to kill each new turbo. Not sure if USA models affected, but looks like it's around the world.
I'm glad I found your videos. Mine is leaking exhaust gas where the vane link that protrudes exteriorly from the central housing. Can that part be serviced with a rebuild kit or just replace the central/core housing like you did here? Looking forward to seeing more videos from you, your descriptions are brief and complete-- not like a lot of other videos here on UA-cam who seem to love to hear themselves talk (10min. video stretches to 30+ mins)
Great video but the explanation about the vanes is backwards. The vanes never fully close, instead they stop at like 1/2mm from each other. This greatly increases the speed of the exhaust gases, making the turbo spin faster. Then they open to control boost, when target is reached.
Nothing gives an otherwise great and wonderful video a thumbs down like having to monkey-jerk the volume around due to the producer's ridiculous decision to interleave loud, obnoxious music within the quiet narration parts.
Gotta have something to break up the silence! I know it's louder in these older vids, my newer and all future vids I've lowered the gain on music to be quieter than my voice on timelapses.
Just ordered one can’t wait to rebuild it. Awesome video thanks for taking the time to do this. That electronic part that attaches to it, do you know if that ever goes bad and if it does is it as simple as ordering a new one and putting it on or does it have to be programmed or something? Thanks again loved it
Crap I broke off turbo nozzle back piece due to carbon build, which is the item you show at 4:15 on video time. Item that you said can only go on one way due to the screw positions. Is there a way to buy garret type that back piece? Thanks so much! BTW great video!!!
SOUND, sir. Excellent content, editing and pleasant to watch. Then, 90% increase in arguably terrible eastern euro 90's techno? Fine with the tunes just my eardrums, and decent home speakers don't respond well to that kinda increase in loudness without warning. Your audience won't mind the sounds of silence, something tells me. Again, excellent content!!!
I dont disagree with you, haha. You will notice a CONSIDERABLY lower music volume in my newer videos. The new editing software I'm using makes it easier for me to see audio levels before the video is rendered.
Hello, are you using the blue or red lock tight? Can I use the blue one too? On mine, there was no lock tight on it. I guess the manufacturer does not put that on there.
I'm hearing a noise from the turbo area 1200rm onwards like a leak/suction noise or maybe bearing rough type noise, do you think turbo is going or boost leak? Also is the turbo easy to remove and install refurbished, also do I need to put it on the star to reset turbo to car because I've heard the waste valve/gate needs to be set to my car?
definitely needs a rebuild asap. turbo international for parts. if you reuse the actuator , no programming needed. if the actuator is broken, don't worry. fixing the broken wires is fairly easy and cheap.
When the cold housing (for air intake) is a few mm off timing, does that matter? I guess if it's too far off, then the level for the actuator will not fit properly anymore, is that possible? And thanks for replying!
Good afternoon! I have a question. I use a translator, I hope you understand me. When to put in place the geometry of a turbine with an electronic actuator, is it necessary to maintain a 2mm gap or can the geometry shutters be closed as in the video and the blades be assembled in the closed state?
Boss l have an 2012 sprinter , l just take out the turbocharger ( mahle ) and turbocharger westgate stuck , doesn’t move . I just need to know 2013-2014 jeep grand Cherokee’s turbo westgate does fit in my sprinter?
Hi Great Video. I am rebuilding my Bluetech Turbo. New turbo core has the same problem. Pin is in different location.How did you install the pin in correct location on turbo core?
I have a turbo leak coming from the exhaust side. Activator arm that goes for the exhaust side of the Turbo. My turbo sounds like a whistle when give it throttle. Any help will be appreciated.
Hi how much play is too much on the turbo shaft? I wriggled mine when intake was off, can jiggle it 1-2mm but unsure if this is because no oil cushion. Thanks!!
Can't get an OEM cartridge (or I couldn't at the time), so a brand new turbo was the only option. Ended up being 10x more expensive vs an aftermarket cartridge.
Hallo, wo für sind die 2 Steh Pinne innen im Turbo Gehäuse? Ich habe auch so einen Pin und musste den Entfernen oder ich bekomme den Movement Ring mit den Klappen nicht in das Trubo Gehäuse. Ich kann hier kein Foto Hinzufügen, so das Sie sehen was ich meine. In Ihrem Gehäuse sind 2 Pinne, in meinem ist nur einer. Muss ich einen Pin Drin lassen? Aber dann passen die Klappen mit dem Movement Ring nicht. Steht dann zu Hoch.
Anyone know if the cartridges are still mis-aligned clocked incorrectly. You mentioned in your post that this was the second one that you did was the first one clocked incorrectly also? Thanks
Hey just a quick question. So I want to reclock the turbo cartridge cuz I am putting this turbo on a 1.9L TDI and so i welded the exhaust housing to the stock TDI manifold but the clocking pin is in a bad location which would put the oil drain and pickup horizontal and wouldn't work. So I cut the clocking pin off and rotated the vain guide do i also need to drill reliefs for the little rollers in the housing?
Hey! Thanks for the video. I'm trying to figure out what I should look into next. I have an 09 GL320, had a bad oil cooler leak, got that replaced. Now I still have an oil leak from the charged air hose (right near the damper, upstream of the intercooler). There doesn't seem to be any play in the turbo shaft, but I'm also getting significantly worse fuel mileage than the computer thinks. I'm guessing I am having a turbo issue, but don't really have any experience in diagnosing the issue. Any advice?
Oil on the turbo vanes makes it harder to spool so there goes fuel economy. It will leak and take out your swirl flap motor. Change the PCV and use a catch can or simply route it to the atmosphere plug the hole where the PCV went into the "batwing" (plastic air intake) add a new gasket at the turbo inlet. This will help the soot build-up in the intakes. Think EGR blocking next.
Do you know what the purpose of the bolt Is for in the middle top of the core you bought? Theres 1 large one. It looks like access for lube or something.
MBDieselFreak nice I order the core from your link gonna do the rebuild soon. I took mine apart and you know the little c clips there’s 2 of them well I lost both lol you have any leads on where I can go to replace those ?
Hi, im going tonbe tearing apart my sprinter turbo and im getting the same cartrige from power tecm . I wanted to ask how did you end up correctly clock the turbo , refering to video when around 7:00
Nope! the cartrage is really very simple, its just a couple of mechanical seals, a couple oil flooded bushings, and then the turbine and compressor wheels. the cartrage is actually balanced by a professional shop in the UK before its sold.
Ethan Denny I did! I just used a file, carefully shaving it down. I didn't tighten the bolts down till I knew the exact clock position of the housings.
@@MBDieselFreak Hey, doing the same on my garret turbo with the number GT2056V on a C219 OM642. Came up with a litte problem while replacing it, there is one bolt that does not fit on it. Is it the one that you shaved away? Am stucked right now because of that, hope you could help me out
Hi, i fixed my actuator now need to install it back, do i need exact precise postion of actuator arm to join it with linkage? or it will be set auto/electonically by car before start up?
@@MBDieselFreak I found another chra that is 3x the price allmoust and I am undecided if I should spend more or not...the brand is Melett a company im UK.
These Chinese cores are sent to the UK to be professionally balanced, so the manufacturer is taking SOME steps at least to make sure it's a quality part. It's really up to you on what you want to do.
ER Automotive did you ever find a source for the stainless steel sealing ring? Mine snapped in half one one side of the ring. What would happen if you install it like that? Oil leak?
@@MBDieselFreak hi, I loved the vid. as for a parts source, I rebuilt my gt2359v with parts from turbo international. I also reused the center housing. you can call them directly and they will help with parts selection and local distributor. I have always heard about balancing turbos(went to diesel school 1990) and throughout my career(now machine repair) I have worked on various ultra high speed devices and balancing methods. a turbocharger spins in the range where all parts need to be balanced individually. relying on final assembly balancing isn't enough. and since the diesel engine doesn't reach high rpm the turbo doesn't reach the speeds of a turbo on a high rpm gas engine. the final balancing isn't required. I rebuilt the 2359v in my om648 last year, and I plan on tuning it this year. the 2005 e320 cdi is a rocketship, if anyone says it has turbo lag. its because their turbo needs a rebuild. its crazy in the rain, and spins all the time on dry roads. should have been awd.
@@madmagyver9981 interesting. My om642 decided to shed some of its exhaust manifold into my turbo, now my turbine wheel is damaged but only say 20%, found the bits of manifold, noticed turbine wheel sealing plate loose? I went ahead and rebuilt the turbo. I got full boost for a few minutes then limp mode. Initially my vanes were seized, caused actuator to churn its gears, solder points. So I bought a gearbox for actuator, resoldered joints and fitted to turbo. Soooo, according to you no need to perfect balance due to rev limits? So I can replace turbine wheel shaft?? Rebuild turbo.
hiya!! @MBDieselFreak Nice video dude! Alex from legit cars said to subscribe to ya! I have a question matey - I have Mercedes CLK 320 CDI 2006 Initially, it had a loss of power / having no adequate power because of P0244 code - position solenoid A wastegate I thought it was the actuator - after removing the actuator and testing it - this was perfectly fine! the issue is the arm connected to the turbo - which opens and shuts the Wastegate on the turbocharger - it is stiff as shitee at the moment; you need a horse to pull it slightly or Popeye's muscles to move/ open/ shut the wastegate. So at the moment - I've disconnected the Actuator I have also shut the wastegate to all the turbocharger to provide power to the car. What are your thoughts, please? I need your help :o) How do I clean the turbocharger of carbon deposits without removing it - with Wynns EGR turbocharger cleaner?
Nice to have you here! Need a little more information here.... the car either has the om642 V6, or the om648 i6, and NEITHER of those cars has a waste gate for the turbo...... both use variable vane turbos which dont use waste gates. sooo....... what exactly did you "shut off"? lol. The computer is able to tell if the engine isn't producing sufficient boost a couple ways.... through the intake pressure sensor, and by reading the position of the turbo vane actuator. so if the arm that goes from the actuator to the vane arm is all jammed up, it isn't going to produce sufficient boost, AND its going to throw a code for the actuator not being in the correct position!
@@MBDieselFreak You're a star bro! so sorry I slept off almost immediately, you're right, should have said the engine type - it's an om642 V6. Ohhhh, variable vane turbos - that's what it's called - now I'm getting some education brother - lol. When I said 'shut off' - the arm that goes from the actuator to the vane arm moved by the actuator is pretty stiff/ jammed up (as you say), you'd need Popeye muscles to move it so it kept on continuously giving the P0244 code for the actuator in incorrect position thereby giving insufficient boost to the engine, felt like an anchor was been dragged when driven. What I did was to disconnect the actuator arm from the actuator itself. I also moved the variable vane turbo in a 'shut' position - to continuous give boost to the turbo - so it has restored power boost to the car - is this a bad thing? However, the variable vane turbo is still jammed tho? is there a way of cleaning it, also what causes it to jam? Thank you once again bro :)
@@jyde2me take that arm completely off, and soak it in a jar of vinegar for a couple days! then wash it, and soak it in a penetrant like PB Blaster for a couple hours! the actuator itself is a servo motor, so you shouldn't be able to move that freely at all. is the lever on the turbo that moves the vanes stiff as well? if the detachable arm is removed, that lever on the turbo should be able to be moved up and down with 0 resistance.
@@MBDieselFreak Ahhhh I get it now, the actuator being a servo motor - that shouldn't be able to move freely at all then. The lever on the turbo that moves the vanes is stiff as well - YES I've detached the detachable arm and removed it, for the time being. The lever on the turbo is able to move up and down but as I haven't attached the detachable arm back - I've left the 'variable vanes turbo' windows open so the turbo can continuously spool and take in the exhaust gas.
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I know this is an old video, who knows if you still look at these comments but this video has helped me immensely. I've just rebuilt my turbo, c350 cdi 265ps which is exactly the same using an ali express part and it's perfect, more responsive than ever.
Thank you sir!!!
Great video destroyed by music, trying to listen quietly at night then music pumps in, kill the music.
Still going to be using filler music for time lapses, but i'm using new editing software now that lowers the volume considerably. Thanks for the feedback!
Turbo technics really good Turbo guys!
wow, the om648 uses the gt23/59v. excellent video.
the vnt turbos are very rebuidable. I rebuilt my gt2359 with parts from turbo international ($170 for tshaft&rebuild kit) . the actuator was tricky, replacing the internal connections takes patients. but $170 vs $1600 + reprogramming is good motivation.
Legit street cars sent me.! Love your videos so far!
Joes Golden Garage thanks!
I plan on starting a series on my CDI to cover all the maintenance and mods i do on my car. Glad to have you!
That’s awesome man. I do not own a diesel right now. But I am a TN dealer in Chattanooga. Check out my video of the 2006 cdi I drove and bid on at auction 11 mos ago. 2600 bucks. Amazing car. I expect your channel will surge today Thanks to legit. Oh and one more thing. I also work for a company called turbotech in Chattanooga. We sell reman parts to Detroit diesel for rebuilding turbos. The Chinese are finally giving us a decent competitive part
I didn’t even watch 1min of this vid, and i gave it a thumbs up.
What an excellent channel! Honestly don’t know how you don’t have more subscribers!
Daveks3 I'm working on it! Haha I've got big plans for future videos, should have another dropping this weekend!
I have a w211 with the om642 engine. Do you know if there is a upgraded turbo about for it that would just bolt on? (Just curious)
Daveks3 performance upgrades are not my specialty, so I'm not sure! If so, it's going to have a seriously hard time fitting in turbo land, due to the very tight tolerances that turbo recesses into the top of the engine.
MBDieselFreak Yeah I guess so, just wondered. Used to work for Mercedes-Benz but retired from the motor trade at 21 lol
Gaskets are not reusable, they''re beveled to form an airtight seal on assembly. Also new stainless bolts are highly adviced trust me. Of course new pcv heater gasket & the charge intake gasket unless you want a faulty M55 in the near future :) Having done many turbojobs on the 642, i've not seen the inside of one yet, thanks for the video :)
Kasper stainless spring steel is absolutely re-useable as long as it's still maintaining it's spring-ability. The rest of the o-rings were replaced.
This turbo was rebuilt the same time I was doing the oil cooler seal job, so the swirl flaps and motor was deleted, new pcv fitted, new intake seals, etc. No seals were reused except the spring steel one I mentioned in the turbo. :)
Excellent and informative video - thank you!.
I'm currently replacing the turbo actuator and will save this video for future should need arise for me to rebuild the turbo and save a ton of cash!.
I read that intake by 100k km starts to release cast particles and they damage turbo, if you don't replace intake, it will continue to kill each new turbo. Not sure if USA models affected, but looks like it's around the world.
I'm glad I found your videos. Mine is leaking exhaust gas where the vane link that protrudes exteriorly from the central housing. Can that part be serviced with a rebuild kit or just replace the central/core housing like you did here? Looking forward to seeing more videos from you, your descriptions are brief and complete-- not like a lot of other videos here on UA-cam who seem to love to hear themselves talk (10min. video stretches to 30+ mins)
Great video but the explanation about the vanes is backwards. The vanes never fully close, instead they stop at like 1/2mm from each other. This greatly increases the speed of the exhaust gases, making the turbo spin faster. Then they open to control boost, when target is reached.
wauuuu great video , clear , and looks easy highly recommended this chanel.thanks,,, gran video claro y facil altamente recomendable este canal
Nothing gives an otherwise great and wonderful video a thumbs down like having to monkey-jerk the volume around due to the producer's ridiculous decision to interleave loud, obnoxious music within the quiet narration parts.
5 thumbs down?
I bet them guys would thumbs down free money...
Fucking music there is no need for that. Good information.
Gotta have something to break up the silence! I know it's louder in these older vids, my newer and all future vids I've lowered the gain on music to be quieter than my voice on timelapses.
Just ordered one can’t wait to rebuild it. Awesome video thanks for taking the time to do this. That electronic part that attaches to it, do you know if that ever goes bad and if it does is it as simple as ordering a new one and putting it on or does it have to be programmed or something? Thanks again loved it
Great video bud thumbs up from me 👍👍👍
Hello, you mentioned that you broke off 2 screws, how did you get the broken piece out of the threat?
Any review of the quality of chinse turbo after 5 years of use?
Crap I broke off turbo nozzle back piece due to carbon build, which is the item you show at 4:15 on video time. Item that you said can only go on one way due to the screw positions. Is there a way to buy garret type that back piece? Thanks so much! BTW great video!!!
SOUND, sir. Excellent content, editing and pleasant to watch. Then, 90% increase in arguably terrible eastern euro 90's techno? Fine with the tunes just my eardrums, and decent home speakers don't respond well to that kinda increase in loudness without warning. Your audience won't mind the sounds of silence, something tells me. Again, excellent content!!!
I dont disagree with you, haha. You will notice a CONSIDERABLY lower music volume in my newer videos. The new editing software I'm using makes it easier for me to see audio levels before the video is rendered.
Hello, are you using the blue or red lock tight? Can I use the blue one too? On mine, there was no lock tight on it. I guess the manufacturer does not put that on there.
Nice job, quick question here, Is it ok to to spray Liqui Moly Diesel intake decarb into the turbo inlet to clean the intake?
I'm hearing a noise from the turbo area 1200rm onwards like a leak/suction noise or maybe bearing rough type noise, do you think turbo is going or boost leak? Also is the turbo easy to remove and install refurbished, also do I need to put it on the star to reset turbo to car because I've heard the waste valve/gate needs to be set to my car?
Sorry I meant actuator not waste gate
definitely needs a rebuild asap. turbo international for parts.
if you reuse the actuator , no programming needed.
if the actuator is broken, don't worry. fixing the broken wires is fairly easy and cheap.
When the cold housing (for air intake) is a few mm off timing, does that matter? I guess if it's too far off, then the level for the actuator will not fit properly anymore, is that possible? And thanks for replying!
I find your video interesting can you give me the parts number please
Hi.Where to find any repair brochures for this turbocharger ?
Also when you replace nozzle ring and turbocharger core chra only, what else to replace while turbo is disassembled ?
Good afternoon! I have a question. I use a translator, I hope you understand me. When to put in place the geometry of a turbine with an electronic actuator, is it necessary to maintain a 2mm gap or can the geometry shutters be closed as in the video and the blades be assembled in the closed state?
Boss l have an 2012 sprinter , l just take out the turbocharger ( mahle ) and turbocharger westgate stuck , doesn’t move . I just need to know 2013-2014 jeep grand Cherokee’s turbo westgate does fit in my sprinter?
IS this GT version or gtb
Hi Great Video. I am rebuilding my Bluetech Turbo. New turbo core has the same problem. Pin is in different location.How did you install the pin in correct location on turbo core?
I didn't install the pin, i removed it completely. i clocked it manually based off of the position of the old turbo core
Do you happen to know the part code for the new o-ring?
Can i install another turbo core with hole on both sides to this turbo case ?
I have a turbo leak coming from the exhaust side. Activator arm that goes for the exhaust side of the Turbo. My turbo sounds like a whistle when give it throttle. Any help will be appreciated.
Hi how much play is too much on the turbo shaft? I wriggled mine when intake was off, can jiggle it 1-2mm but unsure if this is because no oil cushion. Thanks!!
Why wouldn't you just use OE parts? Are they that much more $$$?
Can't get an OEM cartridge (or I couldn't at the time), so a brand new turbo was the only option. Ended up being 10x more expensive vs an aftermarket cartridge.
Hallo, wo für sind die 2 Steh Pinne innen im Turbo Gehäuse? Ich habe auch so einen Pin und musste den Entfernen oder ich bekomme den Movement Ring mit den Klappen nicht in das Trubo Gehäuse. Ich kann hier kein Foto Hinzufügen, so das Sie sehen was ich meine. In Ihrem Gehäuse sind 2 Pinne, in meinem ist nur einer. Muss ich einen Pin Drin lassen? Aber dann passen die Klappen mit dem Movement Ring nicht. Steht dann zu Hoch.
Anyone know if the cartridges are still mis-aligned clocked incorrectly. You mentioned in your post that this was the second one that you did was the first one clocked incorrectly also?
Thanks
the nozzle ring is held by 3 screws. does anyone knows the specs (size or part number) for those screws? thanks in advance
Hey just a quick question. So I want to reclock the turbo cartridge cuz I am putting this turbo on a 1.9L TDI and so i welded the exhaust housing to the stock TDI manifold but the clocking pin is in a bad location which would put the oil drain and pickup horizontal and wouldn't work. So I cut the clocking pin off and rotated the vain guide do i also need to drill reliefs for the little rollers in the housing?
What is the torque of the bolts?
Hey! Thanks for the video. I'm trying to figure out what I should look into next. I have an 09 GL320, had a bad oil cooler leak, got that replaced. Now I still have an oil leak from the charged air hose (right near the damper, upstream of the intercooler). There doesn't seem to be any play in the turbo shaft, but I'm also getting significantly worse fuel mileage than the computer thinks. I'm guessing I am having a turbo issue, but don't really have any experience in diagnosing the issue. Any advice?
Oil on the turbo vanes makes it harder to spool so there goes fuel economy. It will leak and take out your swirl flap motor. Change the PCV and use a catch can or simply route it to the atmosphere plug the hole where the PCV went into the "batwing" (plastic air intake) add a new gasket at the turbo inlet. This will help the soot build-up in the intakes. Think EGR blocking next.
Do you know what the purpose of the bolt Is for in the middle top of the core you bought? Theres 1 large one. It looks like access for lube or something.
After refit of turbo, remove bolt and insert minimum 5ml of oil. Refit bolt. Start engine.
How did you get the aluminum part so clean
Ultrasonic cleaner :D
MBDieselFreak nice I order the core from your link gonna do the rebuild soon. I took mine apart and you know the little c clips there’s 2 of them well I lost both lol you have any leads on where I can go to replace those ?
Could you tell me the G number of this turbo electronic actuator.
Where did you get the rebuild kit?
Hi, I have an E320 Bluetec 2008, OM642, will this cartridge fit in my turbo since my turbo OE number is a bit different: 6420900880. Thank you.
Hi, im going tonbe tearing apart my sprinter turbo and im getting the same cartrige from power tecm . I wanted to ask how did you end up correctly clock the turbo , refering to video when around 7:00
take pictures BEFORE and AFTER disassembling the turbo to know exactily where to clock the cartrage.
How is this holding up today? How many miles have you put on it?
With the Chinese cartridge did you have less mpg/speed as opposed to the original Garrett turbo cartridge?
Nope! the cartrage is really very simple, its just a couple of mechanical seals, a couple oil flooded bushings, and then the turbine and compressor wheels. the cartrage is actually balanced by a professional shop in the UK before its sold.
@@MBDieselFreak thank you!
@@MBDieselFreak Also did you end up having to shave off the locating pin? And if so how did you do that?
Ethan Denny I did! I just used a file, carefully shaving it down. I didn't tighten the bolts down till I knew the exact clock position of the housings.
@@MBDieselFreak Hey, doing the same on my garret turbo with the number GT2056V on a C219 OM642. Came up with a litte problem while replacing it, there is one bolt that does not fit on it. Is it the one that you shaved away? Am stucked right now because of that, hope you could help me out
Hi, i fixed my actuator now need to install it back, do i need exact precise postion of actuator arm to join it with linkage? or it will be set auto/electonically by car before start up?
as long as the actuator is installed in the same position it was originally, it should be perfectly fine
How is the turbo working?
I need to replace mine too and thinking of getting the same replacement but want a remap after.
Working fantastic! I have 2 of these Chinese turbo cores installed on 2 different OM642's, both working perfectly over the last 3 years.
@@MBDieselFreak I found another chra that is 3x the price allmoust and I am undecided if I should spend more or not...the brand is Melett a company im UK.
These Chinese cores are sent to the UK to be professionally balanced, so the manufacturer is taking SOME steps at least to make sure it's a quality part.
It's really up to you on what you want to do.
@@MBDieselFreak I have just messaged the selller to make sure it fits 100% as I dont want to be shaving any pins to be honest.
Cheers!
@@MBDieselFreak its from aliexpress or? I want buy parts to my om642. 170kw, And i wprry About qualitty.. Its really ok? Prices are amazing
Anyone know about the sizing of these across the 642 range? My w211 has a different number and lower power than my w164.
grutnip what is the Garrett turbo number for the W211?
do u know where I can get that stainless steel sealing ring as i damaged mine and need to replace it because of my error
I'm really not sure! Call a turbo specialty shop with your Garrett part number and maybe they might be able to find one
@@MBDieselFreak thanks
ER Automotive did you ever find a source for the stainless steel sealing ring? Mine snapped in half one one side of the ring. What would happen if you install it like that? Oil leak?
@@MBDieselFreak hi, I loved the vid. as for a parts source, I rebuilt my gt2359v with parts from turbo international. I also reused the center housing. you can call them directly and they will help with parts selection and local distributor.
I have always heard about balancing turbos(went to diesel school 1990)
and throughout my career(now machine repair) I have worked on various ultra high speed devices and balancing methods. a turbocharger spins in the range where all parts need to be balanced individually. relying on final assembly balancing isn't enough. and since the diesel engine doesn't reach high rpm the turbo doesn't reach the speeds of a turbo on a high rpm gas engine. the final balancing isn't required.
I rebuilt the 2359v in my om648 last year, and I plan on tuning it this year. the 2005 e320 cdi is a rocketship, if anyone says it has turbo lag. its because their turbo needs a rebuild. its crazy in the rain, and spins all the time on dry roads. should have been awd.
@@madmagyver9981 interesting.
My om642 decided to shed some of its exhaust manifold into my turbo, now my turbine wheel is damaged but only say 20%, found the bits of manifold, noticed turbine wheel sealing plate loose? I went ahead and rebuilt the turbo.
I got full boost for a few minutes then limp mode.
Initially my vanes were seized, caused actuator to churn its gears, solder points.
So I bought a gearbox for actuator, resoldered joints and fitted to turbo.
Soooo, according to you no need to perfect balance due to rev limits? So I can replace turbine wheel shaft?? Rebuild turbo.
hiya!! @MBDieselFreak Nice video dude! Alex from legit cars said to subscribe to ya! I have a question matey - I have Mercedes CLK 320 CDI 2006
Initially, it had a loss of power / having no adequate power because of P0244 code - position solenoid A wastegate
I thought it was the actuator - after removing the actuator and testing it - this was perfectly fine!
the issue is the arm connected to the turbo - which opens and shuts the Wastegate on the turbocharger - it is stiff as shitee at the moment; you need a horse to pull it slightly or Popeye's muscles to move/ open/ shut the wastegate.
So at the moment - I've disconnected the Actuator
I have also shut the wastegate to all the turbocharger to provide power to the car.
What are your thoughts, please? I need your help :o)
How do I clean the turbocharger of carbon deposits without removing it - with Wynns EGR turbocharger cleaner?
Nice to have you here! Need a little more information here.... the car either has the om642 V6, or the om648 i6, and NEITHER of those cars has a waste gate for the turbo...... both use variable vane turbos which dont use waste gates. sooo....... what exactly did you "shut off"? lol. The computer is able to tell if the engine isn't producing sufficient boost a couple ways.... through the intake pressure sensor, and by reading the position of the turbo vane actuator. so if the arm that goes from the actuator to the vane arm is all jammed up, it isn't going to produce sufficient boost, AND its going to throw a code for the actuator not being in the correct position!
@@MBDieselFreak You're a star bro! so sorry I slept off almost immediately, you're right, should have said the engine type - it's an om642 V6.
Ohhhh, variable vane turbos - that's what it's called - now I'm getting some education brother - lol.
When I said 'shut off' - the arm that goes from the actuator to the vane arm moved by the actuator is pretty stiff/ jammed up (as you say), you'd need Popeye muscles to move it so it kept on continuously giving the P0244 code for the actuator in incorrect position thereby giving insufficient boost to the engine, felt like an anchor was been dragged when driven.
What I did was to disconnect the actuator arm from the actuator itself.
I also moved the variable vane turbo in a 'shut' position - to continuous give boost to the turbo - so it has restored power boost to the car - is this a bad thing?
However, the variable vane turbo is still jammed tho? is there a way of cleaning it, also what causes it to jam? Thank you once again bro :)
@@jyde2me take that arm completely off, and soak it in a jar of vinegar for a couple days! then wash it, and soak it in a penetrant like PB Blaster for a couple hours! the actuator itself is a servo motor, so you shouldn't be able to move that freely at all. is the lever on the turbo that moves the vanes stiff as well? if the detachable arm is removed, that lever on the turbo should be able to be moved up and down with 0 resistance.
@@MBDieselFreak Ahhhh I get it now, the actuator being a servo motor - that shouldn't be able to move freely at all then.
The lever on the turbo that moves the vanes is stiff as well - YES
I've detached the detachable arm and removed it, for the time being.
The lever on the turbo is able to move up and down but as I haven't attached the detachable arm back - I've left the 'variable vanes turbo' windows open so the turbo can continuously spool and take in the exhaust gas.