FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! please everyone reading this comment remember to replace the O ring that sits on the EGR cooler under the manifold. I did this job with my ol' man and after a long time putting it all back together the engine coolant was pissing out the bottom so we had to start all over again from the beginning 😭😭😭 learn from our mistake and purchase that seal!!!
I think its better to own and maintain 220 cdi 150 ps, very simple , reliable and more economic engine ! V6 is a pain in the ass and big waste of time and money, just some my opinion !
@@joesaric1 ive owned my chrysler 300c v6 CRD for few years now and i still love it. Ive replaced all the common faults including the broken gear shift plastic hook and these bastard seals, i would do it all again to keep it running. The engine has 180k on it and sounds sweet as a nut. I abuse it on race days and have nitrous running through the things a tank
There is a kit out there, can't remember from whom, that has all the seals for everything. I THINK it might be IDparts, but I bought it when I did mine and it was well worth the piece of mind to replace them all...
@@trentcarlson4857 i was extremely disheartened. Was off road for weeks and weeks waiting on a coupler joint for the mani's. I was balling about in a KA... finally got all back together and that happened... square fucking one. Gluing them poxy swirl motor clips back together... nightmare.
Great video. Thumps up from my side. Thank you for sharing. But please also add important information's for all watchers. 1. be careful at the moment where you are removing the turbo-holder. At time 3:33. There is a hole which goes directly to the motor-center. It is the oil channel of the turbo. If there some dirty stuff falls in, then you are risking a motor damage. Be sensible and clean it carefully immediately. And close with paper towels the hole before you proceed. 2. after you are done, please make an oil change before starting the motor. Water and dirty stuff is mixing through the oil holes under the oil-cooler. I got a lot information's where after this oil-cleaner change the motor got damaged through this dirt-water stuff. If you are done with the change of the oil-cooler and oil+oilfilter, then you should release a plug of motor electric and give some start tries to turn the motor/pump and so on. After several turns, plug the removed cable back. Start the motor and of course delete the occurred error message in obd. These are just my hints for the community in yt ;) Wish to all much success...
Essential video, original style, very well done. It doesn't go into the details of how to dismantle the individual parts, but gives a quick overall idea of the work to be done, what will need to be dismantled step by step.
if i could add one comment other than nice clear vid , one tip id add is when reinstalling intakes loosely install the bolts into the egr to exhaust flange shown at 2;48 in this video before you tighten down the bolts for the right hand intake manifold to save many stressful attempts to line up the bolt holes after the fact.
Hi merc man ive changed more than 30 sets of oil cooler seals mainly on w164's. I leave the thermostat housing on taking the long bolt out and leave the swirl pot motor attached to one half of the manifold. Disconnecting at one point towards the turbo, makes it slightly easier. Best time 5.5 hours drive in then road test all parts ready to go including brake cleaning oil down. Some do take longer, bolts on turbo and egr need to be changed other wise they have a greater chance of snapping for the next guy. Like your clip simple piece by piece break up. 😉
Hi buddy Do you normally just replace the seals and reuse the old oil cooler or you install a new cooler every time? Just about to order the parts as I am planning to do this job in the next 2 weeks. Thanks in advance.
Hopefully they are already fitted in my 2018 GLE! Love these engine vids my first trade was 50 diesel/petrol engine repairs and rebuilds on generators. Amazing how you can get access to all fasteners with all the peripheral gubbings fitted.
Mate I respect your patience but honestly I will never ever buy a new Mercedes only I keep OM606 I gave up with Mercedes new engine faulty technology with all my respect. Thank you so much for your Video Mate u are a legend 🫡 Cheers Matt
Nice, bit how do you make sure no debris falls into the 4 holes from the engine block where the cooler was sitting? I heard that damaged crankshafts and rod bearing often occur after changing the cooler due to debris and dirt fallen into the engine. Thx
Nice Video Mate. Wish I'd seen it before pulling the box and sump and then realising it cam from higher up, had her stripped in 2 hrs thanks to you. Bit longer back together. Thanks for taking the time to make the Vid.
Wow, I've just bought an S Class with this engine, 47,000 miles. I hope I don't need this doing 😩...what a job, kudos 👏 to you though for being able to do it, ...let's put it this way, if it needs doing in the future I might bring it to you ...
Great video! I'm wondering how long does the fix last and have you seen any OM642 leaking again after replacing the seals? I'm viewing an 2012 ML350 this weekend and it has had the same issue and Mercedes fixed it with Mercedes parts in 2018. Mercedes replaced the oil cooler seal (MA642 188 05 80), oil cooler sing (MA642 180 01 65), and bunch of other gaskets. And looks like the Mercedes parts have defects and would not last long, I'm worried that the oil leak will happen again on the car I'm viewing in a few years. Thanks!
Perfect. One thing to add, change your thermostat and any other perishable seals like egr seal at same time. Don't forget the injector seals.... Replace those old copper seals too.
Can you please list all the other gaskets that you replaced? One is manifold. What are the other ones? I will be doing this repair next week. Thank you!
Just wow. I wish I could make a UA-cam car DIY video half as good as this 🤣. This is by all accounts a pain the backside job to do on these engines - however your instructional video is so good that makes it look doable (if I weren't so lazy these days). Subscribed, great channel - keep it up!
I changed mine about a year ago. From what I read, they said that the orange ones were used up until 2009 and the 2010 and newer models had the purple ones. That was not the case. My 2010 had the orange ones and oil everywhere! Thanks to a Malone tune, everything works well and the seals have been replaced.
Hello great video, I had a question: How did you cleaned the oil off. Ive replaced the oil coolers seals but i haven’t found a solution to clean all that oil out.
great video. i had a question for you. i just finished doing this big job. and did all gaskets. i cannot get rid of a p0211 code. i get that code with my autologic scan tool. the code sais it is in relation to injector 1 bank 1 side. or it technically sais injector 11 . i get the following codes as well B3800, U2c18, and c1200. these all seem like error codes. car starts fine. and idles perfect. only time check engine light turns on is when it is actually 1 mile or more on acceleration. then goes into limp mode. i did not have these codes before. but wanted to run this by you. my scanner has no adaptation settings or any type of resets. wires are not broken, i switched out injector also. and also fuel filter. i checked and cleaned the fuel regulator as well.
fantastic video. I have to change my oil cooler and was wondering if I tackle it myself or fork out thousands for someone else. I was able to follow your steps so I feel a bit more confident about doing it Thanks
As u can see there is tones of work to do. For mechanics, they don't wanna take any risks of a bad cooler and also they need to make money from parts. TBH,I believe the main reason is they don't wanna take risk doing all of these shit again and if it's mechanic's own car they would change the cooler as well. Time is money.
From the video it's not that hard,I'm doing it right now,I know how it feels like. There is also a huge risk to damage other parts. Pretty frustrating.
Is there not a good aftermarket solution for this? Something the permanently mounts to the oem location and allows you to route hoses to an aftermarket cooler?
Hi @mercman, I believe I have this problem on my E350d. Are you based around South East London? Or do you know any garages that will fix this in the area? How much do you estimate the cost would be ?
Bonjour Est-il risqué de rouler avec cette fuite si on verifie le niveau de temps à autre? Cest à dire est ce que sur autoroute ca peut se vider completement et risquer une casse moteur par exemple? Merci beaucoup
What is the tightening torque for the manifold and turbo, and can a person who is more of an amateur mechanic who repairs minor things on the car deal with the radiator gaskets?
Hey, I have one question. The EGR pipe that you take out at 2:55, is there a small round gasket where it clamps down onto the y-pipe or was it just a tappered for and clamp? I have an exhaust leak after the repair and this is the only area I’m not 100% sure about. Thanks
I have just developed the same problem with oil cooler 280 cd1 w211 642 motor. Could you advise expected time to repair as per video and how bad is the removal of the bolts in the high temperature areas , turvbo exhast etc
Awesome video thanks. Where can I find a good torque spec for putting it all back together and all the torque specs for that? Do any of the shop manuals do a good job explaining the repair? You video does a great job explaining how to get to the seals but Im guessing you just didn’t have time to do the full video.
Loved your vid, stumbled across this page while researching for the first one I've finished and completed today. Glow 1x glow plug connector broke on me "dammit" . Wish i had seen this earlier :) Never mind. Well done.
Hi Mercman, I just pulled the oil cooler out and wonder if you could tell me your cleanup tips for the oil cooler valley and the black and goey intake and exhaust ports.? Thanks again for that great video and the Lisle e12 and e10 sockets and bits grabbed the bolts the best. Thanks Tom
Hi Tom, i clean the valley with brake cleaner first (covering the oil and coolant holes with tissue or piece of cloth) then i blow with an airline, most the oil and dirt will be gone by then i suck out the oil and dirt in the chambers using an oil vacuum sucker and finally i clean the corners of the valley with a small thin screwdriver and the oil and coolant holes 🕳 sometimes have a buildup of dirt and i use very thin emery paper to clean that up, hope this helps 👍
The inlet and exhaust ports i dont clean up because i cant risk the carbon deposits falling into the valves, i just wipe the surface clean so the new gaskets seal efficiently, i do clean the inlet manifolds if they are very dirt though..
Hey would you need to ensure there’s no cross contamination? I’ve got a guy doing this for me today says he needs to replace the oil filter and coolant?
If you drain the coolant from the engine side ( there is a plastic block in front of the engine where the belt is left side if you drain it from that pipe) then most of the coolant from the inlet manifolds and the turbo cooler should be empty so there shouldn’t be any contamination if your careful with the work, id also loosen the oil filter so most of the oil will end up in the sump, and if your careful there shouldn’t be any contamination
Hi Mercman, what is the proper procedure for the middle diesel line between the the 2 fuel rails. I tried undoing the bolts on the rail loosening the 6 lines , leaving them on etc. , to no avail. i need the mercman procedure to get it correct. Thx again from California.
Hi Tom, i remove the 2 bolts from the left rail then i use a lever bar and lever the rail up whilst doing that the middle pipe can come out, it does require abit of force with the lever so dont be scared to force it a little..
@@mercmantips Hi Just one to see how you are doing in England? I haven't finished up yet major problems with copper pipes in the house under concrete 18 year old house. Take care , Tom
At the 1:47 mark when you take off the air intake to the turbo, there is oil going into the turbo. Is that normal is that a problem? Thanks for any help.
I have 2014 gl is it same engine? And can you please share how’d you clean all that oil before installation and what seals should be replaced? Thank you so much for your time.
Thanks for showing what it looks like from below, before you dig in. Helps to diagnose. Are there other ways to know for sure it's the oil cooler leaking before you dive in?
Just do the obvious. Remove the rubber grommet on the bell housing of the gearbox to see inside there if it's a crank seal. Check the silicone seals on the inlet to the turbo and from the PCV valve to the inlet. They leak oil onto the swirl flap motor and short it out, blowing fuses and throwing codes. This oil will eventually drip between the engine in the same place as the oil cooler but wont be enough to overflow into the weep hole on the side of the block. General rule of thumb with these - it's the oil cooler seal.
Hi MercMan, I thought Mercedes knew about this problem way before 2012 and have had been using the purple seals ever since. Do you think the 2014, w166 series OM642 would have already been modified?
Hi, when you order the seals from mercedes they only supply the purple ones, you cant get the orange ones no more, i have done a 2014 c class W204 OM642 and they had the orange seals, so i think your W166 will have orange too..
@@mercmantips Thank you for the super quick response i didnt know what they were so i can order them thanks again for taking the time to make the video and responding to us.
Thanks mate for the video Just a quick question Any suggestions regarding liqui moly CeraTec oil additives to this kind engines. Mine is a 2013 Vito 122 CDI V6 Thanks in advance
Thanks for the video, it was very good Question: is there anything someone can do to prevent (or reduce the chance) needing to replace those seals? Perhaps a different oil? I've got a 2007 R class with the OM642 engine. it has 215,000km, it gets an oil change service every 5,000km, using 5w-40. It hasn't had a problem (knock on wood). Thank you :)
Hi Ali, from my knowledge and experience these seals perish due to heat and where they are located, so i don’t think there is anything you can do to prevent it, the new seals however are modified to last much longer so the only cure is to change the seals..
@@mercmantips That's a shame. I've read about a ton of common issues with the OM642, including the oil drip from the turbo inlet, but I've solved that by installing a catch can. Makes me wonder how effective R&D was for this engine 😂. I guess I'll have to keep hoping nothing happens anytime soon. thank you (subbed)
MercMan Tips damn! 😂 i love the w164 shape believe it is half good engine once all small errors fixed? Do you find remapping these much better performance wise? Motorway etc take off
Hi there where are you located? I have a Chrysler 300c crd 2006 with the V6 Mercedes engine and have the oil leak problem but can’t find anyone to do the job for me, I would like to come and see you about doing the job, regards Ergun
i want to add something. we have two suvs, both are with om642 variants. another leaking part is the torn intercooler pipe oring close to turbo. i realized this after repairing the oil cooler orings with purple ones. it kept dripping slowly. then oring was the problem.
That does not look like a diy project, at least not one I would ever tackle. I think those orange seals are rubber and the purple ones are neoprene. That should be a lifetime fix. That diesel sounds so sweet. I would love to have one again instead of my 01 e320.
Just wondering when doing this job, what is a complete list of gaskets, seals, o rings, etc needed. Don't want to go back in for something simple. Thanks
I would like to know how much a workshop/mechanic in the UK or Europe would charge for that operation? How many hours just to take the engine apart? FYI I have s 2013 cls 350CDI.... And she's leaking
A small independent garage, if its an saloon car it will cost around £550, if its on an ML or. GL it will cost around £600 as the wiper mechanism and panels will need to be removed as an extra on an SUV
MercMan Tips thanks a lot for quick reply. Mercedes is asking 2300€ here in the south of France. So I’m gonna be looking for a real professional. Thanks again
MercMan Tips it’s a CLS but doesn’t make a difference. Thanks a lot for the heads up. Wish I could come to you but it’s a bit far. Will keep you posted. Keep going with your videos. It’s awesome.
Looking at doing this myself, but not sure about what seals to buy. there are really cheap ones from China, and then there are the genuine Mercedes ones. The look and feel identical, but 1/5 price difference. Should I get OEM or cheapies?
Did you know that the core problem is that the orange silicone rubber gaskets are incompatible with the diesel oil? I first noticed this when replacing the turbo inlet seal after only a year and I could rip it with my fingers. Mercedes replaced it twice at 100 000 and 200 000 km. I also had oils leaks on the vacuum pump that has the same rubber gaskets
So, if I were to be looking at buying an R350 with this engine and there was no oil leaking on the pavement underneath I would be okay? I am a pretty experienced DIY mechanic but at 70+ years of age I am getting pretty choosy about what I get myself into.
This is what I've found: "The pre-2010 OM642 engines were notorious for leaking oil from the oil cooler seals. The original seals (orange colour) weren’t able to withstand the heat and developed leaks. Updated seals (purple colour) were introduced in 2010. There was a recall for this issue, so hopefully, most vehicles would have had the seals replaced by now. Before buying one, check if the seals have indeed been replaced and inspect the car for oil leaks."
Nice video, I've got a question, don't you need to change the bolts within gaskets on both sides? I'm not quiet sure whether they have aluminum bolts and they need to be changed. Thanks
@@mercmantips cool! Thanks a lot, asking because I need to change oil cooler gaskets as well and will be performing the same in upcoming weeks, so wasn't entirely sure if need to change bolts. I have an r class with om642.950
Oh good luck Pavel, on the R class you need to remove the wiper mechanism and the panels too, the main gaskets and seals id change are, oil cooler seals x2, inlet manifold gaskets x2, turbo oil cooler block gaskets x2, inlet manifold motor clips x4, turbo inlet seal (big orange), turbo outlet seal (green).. 👍
@MercMan Tips thanks for this video. My car decided to start mixing oil and water, could this be the culprit? My car has never overheated before, and it seems this may solve my issue to replace the seals on this. But I don't know? Hope you can tell me if this could possible and hopefully be my only issue.
Hello Mercman, I managed to reset the service light of my Daewoo Matiz. However, i have now started to get an unusual noise from the wheel bearing on my second car. What can you advise. It is a Fiat Multipla. Many thanks!
Really good video. Hi I’ve got a Viano 170k miles got a massive oil leak. Have you done one on a Vito/Viano?? Thinking of having a go myself with help with my friend who is a Machanic. Anything I need to know before I start??
Probably one of the best car repair videos I’ve seen, love the format of “show and do” simple but effective
Great video, am almost complete on doing a 2011 vito van, there is a few different things, but what a big job. 👌
FOR THE LOVE OF GOD! please everyone reading this comment remember to replace the O ring that sits on the EGR cooler under the manifold. I did this job with my ol' man and after a long time putting it all back together the engine coolant was pissing out the bottom so we had to start all over again from the beginning 😭😭😭 learn from our mistake and purchase that seal!!!
I think its better to own and maintain 220 cdi 150 ps, very simple , reliable and more economic engine ! V6 is a pain in the ass and big waste of time and money, just some my opinion !
@@joesaric1 ive owned my chrysler 300c v6 CRD for few years now and i still love it. Ive replaced all the common faults including the broken gear shift plastic hook and these bastard seals, i would do it all again to keep it running. The engine has 180k on it and sounds sweet as a nut. I abuse it on race days and have nitrous running through the things a tank
There is a kit out there, can't remember from whom, that has all the seals for everything. I THINK it might be IDparts, but I bought it when I did mine and it was well worth the piece of mind to replace them all...
I would puke. This might be one of the worst jobs i have performed.
@@trentcarlson4857 i was extremely disheartened. Was off road for weeks and weeks waiting on a coupler joint for the mani's. I was balling about in a KA... finally got all back together and that happened... square fucking one. Gluing them poxy swirl motor clips back together... nightmare.
Great video. Thumps up from my side. Thank you for sharing.
But please also add important information's for all watchers.
1. be careful at the moment where you are removing the turbo-holder.
At time 3:33. There is a hole which goes directly to the motor-center. It is the oil channel of the turbo. If there some dirty stuff falls in, then you are risking a motor damage. Be sensible and clean it carefully immediately. And close with paper towels the hole before you proceed.
2. after you are done, please make an oil change before starting the motor. Water and dirty stuff is mixing through the oil holes under the oil-cooler. I got a lot information's where after this oil-cleaner change the motor got damaged through this dirt-water stuff.
If you are done with the change of the oil-cooler and oil+oilfilter, then you should release a plug of motor electric and give some start tries to turn the motor/pump and so on. After several turns, plug the removed cable back. Start the motor and of course delete the occurred error message in obd.
These are just my hints for the community in yt ;)
Wish to all much success...
Essential video, original style, very well done. It doesn't go into the details of how to dismantle the individual parts, but gives a quick overall idea of the work to be done, what will need to be dismantled step by step.
if i could add one comment other than nice clear vid , one tip id add is when reinstalling intakes loosely install the bolts into the egr to exhaust flange shown at 2;48 in this video before you tighten down the bolts for the right hand intake manifold to save many stressful attempts to line up the bolt holes after the fact.
This is exactly what I needed!!! Thank you so much. The editing was perfect to, straight to the point! Cheers mate
Hi merc man ive changed more than 30 sets of oil cooler seals mainly on w164's. I leave the thermostat housing on taking the long bolt out and leave the swirl pot motor attached to one half of the manifold. Disconnecting at one point towards the turbo, makes it slightly easier. Best time 5.5 hours drive in then road test all parts ready to go including brake cleaning oil down. Some do take longer, bolts on turbo and egr need to be changed other wise they have a greater chance of snapping for the next guy. Like your clip simple piece by piece break up. 😉
Thanks for the info sash, i will try your way next time 👍
where are you located any chance you can do my 2009 ml320
how much?
@@elpimpi7135 Australia victoria
Hi buddy
Do you normally just replace the seals and reuse the old oil cooler or you install a new cooler every time? Just about to order the parts as I am planning to do this job in the next 2 weeks. Thanks in advance.
Are you mechanic bro or ?
This is the best approach so far. Thank you for posting this video.
Thanks for the comment, please subscribe if you have not already 🙏
Hopefully they are already fitted in my 2018 GLE! Love these engine vids my first trade was 50 diesel/petrol engine repairs and rebuilds on generators. Amazing how you can get access to all fasteners with all the peripheral gubbings fitted.
Wow! Thanks for making this video. I see why the mechanic is charging 10 hrs of labour for a GLE 350 blutec.
Amazing skills!
See i told everyone those engines weren't that scary...Thanks great informative tutorial im waiting on a gasket kit now...
Mate I respect your patience but honestly I will never ever buy a new Mercedes only I keep OM606 I gave up with Mercedes new engine faulty technology with all my respect.
Thank you so much for your Video Mate u are a legend 🫡
Cheers
Matt
Definately best video about oil cooler Seals.
Thanks For the support and comment James, please subscribe if you have not already
James Parus agreed
JUST an observation, lot os oil on the turbo intake, need new breather valve and watch out for blow by.
GREAT VIDEO
Great help. In the middle of this job for the first time and this just what I needed !!
Wow 👍that’s a big job for a couple of seals, and by your collection you’ve certainly done a few! Thx for doing the video.
Great video still can't believe all this work to change a couple of oil cooler seals. Mercedes engineers.
😂
Imagine if they had just used the right seal material from the start.
Nice, bit how do you make sure no debris falls into the 4 holes from the engine block where the cooler was sitting? I heard that damaged crankshafts and rod bearing often occur after changing the cooler due to debris and dirt fallen into the engine.
Thx
Nice Video Mate. Wish I'd seen it before pulling the box and sump and then realising it cam from higher up, had her stripped in 2 hrs thanks to you. Bit longer back together. Thanks for taking the time to make the Vid.
Excellent job mate I was confused from two day I changed the main seal because of this leakage but now tomorrow I ll do this job regards
i have do the same
I had that same breakdown 4 years ago with 170,000 km and my mechanic changed my oil radiator because he said that they went bad and were oval.
Wow, I've just bought an S Class with this engine, 47,000 miles. I hope I don't need this doing 😩...what a job, kudos 👏 to you though for being able to do it, ...let's put it this way, if it needs doing in the future I might bring it to you ...
Great video! I'm wondering how long does the fix last and have you seen any OM642 leaking again after replacing the seals? I'm viewing an 2012 ML350 this weekend and it has had the same issue and Mercedes fixed it with Mercedes parts in 2018. Mercedes replaced the oil cooler seal (MA642 188 05 80), oil cooler sing (MA642 180 01 65), and bunch of other gaskets. And looks like the Mercedes parts have defects and would not last long, I'm worried that the oil leak will happen again on the car I'm viewing in a few years. Thanks!
Had mine replaced in 2013 on an OM642 CDI. Still dry in 9/2021.
Replaced mine in 2020 and it started ti leak again one week ago 😔
@@Mr.DIY.S.S.C could be seals that got fit unproperly during replacement
Perfect. One thing to add, change your thermostat and any other perishable seals like egr seal at same time. Don't forget the injector seals.... Replace those old copper seals too.
Can you please list all the other gaskets that you replaced?
One is manifold. What are the other ones?
I will be doing this repair next week. Thank you!
I need my seals replacing, how much does this guy charge to do the job, ill travel happily to get it done
did you ever find out ?
@@fctuning i just had mine done last week - paid £1200 at my local garage
Just wow. I wish I could make a UA-cam car DIY video half as good as this 🤣. This is by all accounts a pain the backside job to do on these engines - however your instructional video is so good that makes it look doable (if I weren't so lazy these days). Subscribed, great channel - keep it up!
I changed mine about a year ago. From what I read, they said that the orange ones were used up until 2009 and the 2010 and newer models had the purple ones. That was not the case. My 2010 had the orange ones and oil everywhere! Thanks to a Malone tune, everything works well and the seals have been replaced.
I have done 2014 models with the orange seals so defo not true!
Hello great video, I had a question: How did you cleaned the oil off. Ive replaced the oil coolers seals but i haven’t found a solution to clean all that oil out.
With the rigth tools and passion everything can be done ❤
great video. i had a question for you. i just finished doing this big job. and did all gaskets. i cannot get rid of a p0211 code. i get that code with my autologic scan tool. the code sais it is in relation to injector 1 bank 1 side. or it technically sais injector 11 . i get the following codes as well B3800, U2c18, and c1200. these all seem like error codes. car starts fine. and idles perfect. only time check engine light turns on is when it is actually 1 mile or more on acceleration. then goes into limp mode. i did not have these codes before. but wanted to run this by you. my scanner has no adaptation settings or any type of resets. wires are not broken, i switched out injector also. and also fuel filter. i checked and cleaned the fuel regulator as well.
fantastic video. I have to change my oil cooler and was wondering if I tackle it myself or fork out thousands for someone else. I was able to follow your steps so I feel a bit more confident about doing it Thanks
Excellent video! Thank you!
Question: Is there any reason to also replace the cooler itself when changing the seals?
As u can see there is tones of work to do. For mechanics, they don't wanna take any risks of a bad cooler and also they need to make money from parts. TBH,I believe the main reason is they don't wanna take risk doing all of these shit again and if it's mechanic's own car they would change the cooler as well. Time is money.
From the video it's not that hard,I'm doing it right now,I know how it feels like. There is also a huge risk to damage other parts. Pretty frustrating.
What do you mean $1500 in labor??!?! Its a 9 minute youtube video!!! Great work!
can you make a video how you rebuild it step by step :) very nice work i love your Videos Thumbs up for you
Is there not a good aftermarket solution for this? Something the permanently mounts to the oem location and allows you to route hoses to an aftermarket cooler?
Great video! Anyone looking to buy a used 3.0 diesel should watch this then ask the owner if the service has been done.
Actually, you can look at the leak with a flash light at a certain angle inside the "V" valley without unbolting a single fastener.
Real Craftsmanship. ✌️
Hi @mercman, I believe I have this problem on my E350d. Are you based around South East London? Or do you know any garages that will fix this in the area? How much do you estimate the cost would be ?
Bonjour
Est-il risqué de rouler avec cette fuite si on verifie le niveau de temps à autre?
Cest à dire est ce que sur autoroute ca peut se vider completement et risquer une casse moteur par exemple?
Merci beaucoup
I dont understand french, you can write in Turkish?
Nice old sealing collection! Kind of trophys (-:
Thanks for the comment, please subscribe 🙏
yep, loved it too!
Reminded me of old western movies with Indian showing scalps
✌️
What is the tightening torque for the manifold and turbo, and can a person who is more of an amateur mechanic who repairs minor things on the car deal with the radiator gaskets?
Hi MercMan I'm halfway, well trying to get the turbo off. Any tips to get the bottom bolt from the exhaust elbow to the turbo. Not alot of room!!
Im not sure what bolt your on about send me a pic on my instagram
Can you share the torque specs for this job? Much appreciated.
I’ve been looking for the same info.
I usually tighten until they strip, then back off a quarter turn.
Hey, I have one question. The EGR pipe that you take out at 2:55, is there a small round gasket where it clamps down onto the y-pipe or was it just a tappered for and clamp? I have an exhaust leak after the repair and this is the only area I’m not 100% sure about. Thanks
Yes there is a gasket on both sides of that pipe
I have just developed the same problem with oil cooler 280 cd1 w211 642 motor. Could you advise expected time to repair as per video and how bad is the removal of the bolts in the high temperature areas , turvbo exhast etc
I wish i had superpowers like you. :))) touching parts to remove them and 1 single touch to reassemble everything.
Lol
Awesome video thanks. Where can I find a good torque spec for putting it all back together and all the torque specs for that? Do any of the shop manuals do a good job explaining the repair? You video does a great job explaining how to get to the seals but Im guessing you just didn’t have time to do the full video.
Loved your vid, stumbled across this page while researching for the first one I've finished and completed today. Glow 1x glow plug connector broke on me "dammit" . Wish i had seen this earlier :) Never mind. Well done.
Hi Mercman, I just pulled the oil cooler out and wonder if you could tell me your cleanup tips for the oil cooler valley and the black and goey intake and exhaust ports.? Thanks again for that great video and the Lisle e12 and e10 sockets and bits grabbed the bolts the best. Thanks Tom
Hi Tom, i clean the valley with brake cleaner first (covering the oil and coolant holes with tissue or piece of cloth) then i blow with an airline, most the oil and dirt will be gone by then i suck out the oil and dirt in the chambers using an oil vacuum sucker and finally i clean the corners of the valley with a small thin screwdriver and the oil and coolant holes 🕳 sometimes have a buildup of dirt and i use very thin emery paper to clean that up, hope this helps 👍
The inlet and exhaust ports i dont clean up because i cant risk the carbon deposits falling into the valves, i just wipe the surface clean so the new gaskets seal efficiently, i do clean the inlet manifolds if they are very dirt though..
thanks for the info, you saved alot of time for me .
You are welcome 👍
Hey would you need to ensure there’s no cross contamination? I’ve got a guy doing this for me today says he needs to replace the oil filter and coolant?
If you drain the coolant from the engine side ( there is a plastic block in front of the engine where the belt is left side if you drain it from that pipe) then most of the coolant from the inlet manifolds and the turbo cooler should be empty so there shouldn’t be any contamination if your careful with the work, id also loosen the oil filter so most of the oil will end up in the sump, and if your careful there shouldn’t be any contamination
Lots of parts need to be removed to access these seals! When I buy such car, is it possible to see that seals are leaking?
Hi merc
Some times I see crank shaft failure after cooler seals change ??why this happen
Hi Mercman, what is the proper procedure for the middle diesel line between the the 2 fuel rails. I tried undoing the bolts on the rail loosening the 6 lines , leaving them on etc. , to no avail. i need the mercman procedure to get it correct. Thx again from California.
Hi Tom, i remove the 2 bolts from the left rail then i use a lever bar and lever the rail up whilst doing that the middle pipe can come out, it does require abit of force with the lever so dont be scared to force it a little..
@@mercmantips fantastic tip again thx , tom
5 minutes and its done, Thx again
Your welcome 👍
@@mercmantips Hi Just one to see how you are doing in England? I haven't finished up yet major problems with copper pipes in the house under concrete 18 year old house. Take care , Tom
At the 1:47 mark when you take off the air intake to the turbo, there is oil going into the turbo. Is that normal is that a problem? Thanks for any help.
Great video. Now, please, would you also do one for the OM629 4.0 V8 diesel engine too?
Was that also the PCV valve that you had to take out? I’m considering replacing it as they are prone to leak and affect gas mileage.
How much torque needed for the two t45 torx bolts mounting turbocharger to the pedestal? Thanks for the video.
I have 2014 gl is it same engine? And can you please share how’d you clean all that oil before installation and what seals should be replaced? Thank you so much for your time.
Nice gaskets what if you put a minimal amount of silicone with the new gaskets will that last longer?
Thanks for showing what it looks like from below, before you dig in. Helps to diagnose. Are there other ways to know for sure it's the oil cooler leaking before you dive in?
Just do the obvious.
Remove the rubber grommet on the bell housing of the gearbox to see inside there if it's a crank seal.
Check the silicone seals on the inlet to the turbo and from the PCV valve to the inlet. They leak oil onto the swirl flap motor and short it out, blowing fuses and throwing codes. This oil will eventually drip between the engine in the same place as the oil cooler but wont be enough to overflow into the weep hole on the side of the block.
General rule of thumb with these - it's the oil cooler seal.
Great job mate,very helpful for the e350 owners.Let me gues,the seals probably not expensive,but to much work to get them changed!
Omg what a cluster.
Is this reason enough to only get the OM651???
Hi MercMan, I thought Mercedes knew about this problem way before 2012 and have had been using the purple seals ever since. Do you think the 2014, w166 series OM642 would have already been modified?
Hi, when you order the seals from mercedes they only supply the purple ones, you cant get the orange ones no more, i have done a 2014 c class W204 OM642 and they had the orange seals, so i think your W166 will have orange too..
MercMan Tips naughty isnt it! Shame ! Found out they make them in alabama! Have you done any w166 yet? Might aswell keep my w164
MercMan Tips do you have any contact or name of garage you work in ease
Salut ! Cumva baga ulei în vasul de expansiune? La mine nu baga , doar ca îmi mănâncă ulei ,dacă schimb garniturile alea mai consuma ulei ?
What are those 2 seals next to the inlet manifold gaskets? Not the oil cooler ones the the other two. 8:43
They are the gaskets for the turbo cooler block, so there is a block under the turbo and theres 2 gaskets on that
@@mercmantips Thank you for the super quick response i didnt know what they were so i can order them thanks again for taking the time to make the video and responding to us.
MercMan, where is your shop or you have a website for your shop? I need to bring my ML350 Bluetec to you for this.
Great video thanks. What's the cost of this job and plus the inlet port shutoff motor? Thanks
Thanks mate for the video
Just a quick question
Any suggestions regarding liqui moly CeraTec oil additives to this kind engines.
Mine is a 2013 Vito 122 CDI V6
Thanks in advance
Thanks for the video, it was very good
Question: is there anything someone can do to prevent (or reduce the chance) needing to replace those seals? Perhaps a different oil?
I've got a 2007 R class with the OM642 engine. it has 215,000km, it gets an oil change service every 5,000km, using 5w-40. It hasn't had a problem (knock on wood).
Thank you :)
Hi Ali, from my knowledge and experience these seals perish due to heat and where they are located, so i don’t think there is anything you can do to prevent it, the new seals however are modified to last much longer so the only cure is to change the seals..
@@mercmantips
That's a shame. I've read about a ton of common issues with the OM642, including the oil drip from the turbo inlet, but I've solved that by installing a catch can. Makes me wonder how effective R&D was for this engine 😂. I guess I'll have to keep hoping nothing happens anytime soon.
thank you (subbed)
MercMan Tips damn! 😂 i love the w164 shape believe it is half good engine once all small errors fixed? Do you find remapping these much better performance wise? Motorway etc take off
Noticed the manifold gaskets but what were the small ones?
Hi there where are you located? I have a Chrysler 300c crd 2006 with the V6 Mercedes engine and have the oil leak problem but can’t find anyone to do the job for me, I would like to come and see you about doing the job, regards Ergun
How much it cost to repair ?
I got the same problem right now and looking slfor some good garage to do it.
Thx
i want to add something. we have two suvs, both are with om642 variants. another leaking part is the torn intercooler pipe oring close to turbo. i realized this after repairing the oil cooler orings with purple ones. it kept dripping slowly. then oring was the problem.
Its the green seal, that usual fails due to incorrect fitting of that aluminium pipe
That does not look like a diy project, at least not one I would ever tackle.
I think those orange seals are rubber and the purple ones are neoprene. That should be a lifetime fix.
That diesel sounds so sweet. I would love to have one again instead of my 01 e320.
How much will this cost on average to repairs plz reply my cars has the same problem just bought it 6 months ago 😭😭
Can you tell me when you did this job did you need to change replace parts part# A6420906537 and A6420900637 ? Thanks for the video!
Just wondering when doing this job, what is a complete list of gaskets, seals, o rings, etc needed. Don't want to go back in for something simple. Thanks
You find complete sets on places like europarts or autodoc.
Hi mate, would you be willing to take a job on to repair one of these .. looks like you know exactly what your doing.
What year of 350 cdi did they fix this i have a 2012 cls with same problem, im selling it ina few days and want to buy a 2015 or 2016 cls 350 cdi
Good afternoon. Is it possible that if these seals malfunction in the heat exchange, oil will appear in the coolant?
I would like to know how much a workshop/mechanic in the UK or Europe would charge for that operation? How many hours just to take the engine apart?
FYI I have s 2013 cls 350CDI.... And she's leaking
A small independent garage, if its an saloon car it will cost around £550, if its on an ML or. GL it will cost around £600 as the wiper mechanism and panels will need to be removed as an extra on an SUV
MercMan Tips thanks a lot for quick reply. Mercedes is asking 2300€ here in the south of France. So I’m gonna be looking for a real professional. Thanks again
Wow that is crazy, for an S350 2013 i will charge £550, look for an independent mercedes specialist someone who has done this job before...
MercMan Tips it’s a CLS but doesn’t make a difference. Thanks a lot for the heads up. Wish I could come to you but it’s a bit far. Will keep you posted. Keep going with your videos. It’s awesome.
Thanks a lot for the support 🙏 wish you all the best...
Looking at doing this myself, but not sure about what seals to buy. there are really cheap ones from China, and then there are the genuine Mercedes ones. The look and feel identical, but 1/5 price difference. Should I get OEM or cheapies?
OEM without a doubt you dont want to do this job twice
The new seals how long do they usually go before another replacement? Have you seen them fail to?
Hi MercMan Tips ! Great job , need this things changed on my car Where You located? Wonder how much time it take for this job ?
Great video, what is the cost to do this job?
Did you know that the core problem is that the orange silicone rubber gaskets are incompatible with the diesel oil? I first noticed this when replacing the turbo inlet seal after only a year and I could rip it with my fingers. Mercedes replaced it twice at 100 000 and 200 000 km. I also had oils leaks on the vacuum pump that has the same rubber gaskets
This is a brilliant step by step video. Very good work and thank you for sharing.
Hi .
I have the some problem. How many hours you spent to fix it.
Thanks.
Do the intake valves need to be cleaned periodically? Thanks
So, if I were to be looking at buying an R350 with this engine and there was no oil leaking on the pavement underneath I would be okay? I am a pretty experienced DIY mechanic but at 70+ years of age I am getting pretty choosy about what I get myself into.
This is what I've found: "The pre-2010 OM642 engines were notorious for leaking oil from the oil cooler seals. The original seals (orange colour) weren’t able to withstand the heat and developed leaks. Updated seals (purple colour) were introduced in 2010. There was a recall for this issue, so hopefully, most vehicles would have had the seals replaced by now. Before buying one, check if the seals have indeed been replaced and inspect the car for oil leaks."
Hello. Do you know why after doing this job, the engine would lock up ?
as a general idea how much do you charge for a change? I have a jeep grand cherokee 3.0 CRD with om642 and I think I have same issue
Hello,is the 2012 265hp w212 ones has the same problem? if so,how can i understand that same issue is ongoing by the easiest way from outside?
W212 2011 have same problem?
Nice video, I've got a question, don't you need to change the bolts within gaskets on both sides? I'm not quiet sure whether they have aluminum bolts and they need to be changed. Thanks
Hi do you mean the inlet manifold bolts?
@@mercmantips yes
I have never changed them, and never had any problems.
@@mercmantips cool! Thanks a lot, asking because I need to change oil cooler gaskets as well and will be performing the same in upcoming weeks, so wasn't entirely sure if need to change bolts. I have an r class with om642.950
Oh good luck Pavel, on the R class you need to remove the wiper mechanism and the panels too, the main gaskets and seals id change are, oil cooler seals x2, inlet manifold gaskets x2, turbo oil cooler block gaskets x2, inlet manifold motor clips x4, turbo inlet seal (big orange), turbo outlet seal (green).. 👍
@MercMan Tips thanks for this video. My car decided to start mixing oil and water, could this be the culprit? My car has never overheated before, and it seems this may solve my issue to replace the seals on this. But I don't know? Hope you can tell me if this could possible and hopefully be my only issue.
Hello Mercman, I managed to reset the service light of my Daewoo Matiz. However, i have now started to get an unusual noise from the wheel bearing on my second car. What can you advise. It is a Fiat Multipla. Many thanks!
I suggest you buy a Merc!
Really good video.
Hi I’ve got a Viano 170k miles got a massive oil leak. Have you done one on a Vito/Viano?? Thinking of having a go myself with help with my friend who is a Machanic. Anything I need to know before I start??
Is that a 265bhp ? thought the 265’s had purples from the factory