Rob, I did this job today and i am very thankful for this video. Everything worked out well. Just small error, i broke the tiny clip lever on the electric brake switch. But that is life! Thank you again for just amazing videos!!
Excellent video! The caliper compress stumped me till I saw your handling of electric parking brake. Some of the comments are amazing, a lot of spoon fed babies out there.
I’m not normally one to comment on UA-cam videos, but I just wanted to thank you, Rob, for this video and the one that teaches the front brakes as well. You saved me a couple hundred dollars and taught me a thing or two in the process as well.
Absolutely great video. A neighbor asked me to change his rear brakes + rotors on a 2018 Honda CRV. Your video was the key to a successful installation. Thanks.
I had watched a video or 2 before attempting the brake change and didnt recall seeing the ebrake component. Your video saved me in the middle of changing the back brakes! Jobs done and saved a lot of money doing it myself! Thanks again!
Rob, followed your way to replace the rear pads for my 2017 Honda CR-V. It works great. Thank you so much for showing us the whole process. There is a minor slip of the tongue (I guess) you made at 10:38 in the video. The T45 bit (and the electronic thing) should be turned counterclockwise rather than clockwise. I've tried to turn it clockwise initially, but the piston can not be retracted no matter how hard I've struggled with my piston reactor tool. Turned the T45 counter-clockwise again, after that, the piston got reacted smoothly.
Thank you. I was about to follow another video that said to jump the motor to spin it clockwise electrically. This method makes so much more sense. Great info about the calibration as well.
Yeah, how can you know what polarity it is and how much voltage/current to apply? I saw those video's too. Thanks for your comment! Good Luck on your repair! Cheers! Rob
This video is awesome. I just did a tire rotation and oil change on my wife's CRV and I was looking at the rear parking brake and wondering how it retracted for service. Appreciate the video im not worried about doing them in the future!
Thanks for this great video. It made the job so easy and fun. I couldn't have done this job without it. I was fortunate that the dealer mentioned I should watch a video on the rear brakes before attempting the job. One note: There is no video clip regarding the reassembly of the emergency brake motor. Not a big deal but I was a little unsure if rotating the shaft as I reassembled the motor was an issue- didn't seem to be. Thanks again!
Yes, somehow that part of the video got deleted. I did computer maintenance after and formatted my hard drive and I couldn't even modify the video. I usually refer people to my civic video for reference. Thanks for your comment! Cheers! Rob
Thank you very much! I have this job coming up on my wife's '17 CR-V, you made it look easy. I appreciate your time posting this for UA-cam land to reference!
Great video, Rob. For someone like me who has never changed brakes before, these were good instructions and information. Btw, thumbs up on the garage set up!
Thank you. By far the most comprehensive instructions. Followed it and the job went super easy. The biggest challenge was ironically trying to disconnect the power harness for the motor. It’s a bit tricky indeed but once you find the right spot no issues. Keep up with a great vids.
@@robsgaragewoodworkin 9:15 Was there a reason for using an extension like that instead of attaching the Torx bit directly? For a better view with camera angle?
@@wingerrrrrrrrr The hex bit was too large and hit the side of the assembly so I used a hex screwdriver bit in the 1/4 inch socket with the extension to clear the plastic side. Yeah it looks crazy. I think I did describe the reasoning but maybe it got edited out.
Thank you very much for sharing, great video. I changed my rear brakes and rotors on my Honda crv 2017 with your outstanding tutorial. It was so hard to remove the two button bolts on the caliper. I had to use an extension bar and spray it with WD40.
Great video, I listen to UA-cam while I do things, like walk the dog & such, I have a 2021 CRV, I had no idea about the parking brake, I’ll have to remember that!!
Very informative brake info.I will use this to clean up my brakes when I changeover my summer tires. Just a couple of items that I would draw to your attention; 1)It is my understanding that lubricating any fastener and then using a torque wrench will affect the values; over tightening the bolt. 2) when you tightened the wheel nut with the impact gun,I think the nuts where overtightened past the required torque and when you used the torque wrench, as the bolts where already tightened, you experienced the click. I think using the impact to only snug the rim and them finish the tightening using the torque wrench. I don’t lube my studs because they will be removed in 5-6 months when I change to the other tires.
I appreciate this video. I’ve been looking for this before I had to deal with my new CR-V brakes. I even tried asking my dealership maintenance department. They where no help at all. Thank you.
You're welcome! They don't want you to know how because they want to charge $650 for rear brakes here in Canada. Actual parts cost is between $200-$250. Good Luck with your repair!
Pretty good insight thank you for sharing your video I learned something new very helpful specially I’m replacing my daughter rear brake 2018 Honda CR-V I enjoy watching your video thanks
Thanks again, this the reason I am not trying to replace my rear brake, I dont want to open the brake motor. This is very helpul. I can now replace my rear brake without running back to the dealer!
Good video, Sir. I really appreciated everything you did.. Calibrating rear brakes, what in the world. Dealer hook up😢😢😢. Thank you very much. Sir... Wade Out...
Great information, thank you for helping me do my 1st brake job. I had to do a LOT of praying inserting the new pads as the spring clips kept flying off. Finally got it done though.
Hi, from Thunder Bay,Ontario, I came here for brakes, thanks for the great video, but I subscribed because I see woodworking on your name,,,I’m hooked,lol
This is an excellent video, having watched every one I could find on changing the rear pads and rotors on a 2017 CRV. I've never dealt with an EPB before. I would take exception to your point about anti-seize not changing torque values, though. Here's a link to a page on the ROCOL site (they make industrial lubes) explaining how to calculate a lower torque value for a fastener with anti-seize applied to it (seems to be about 30% lower, but I'd follow their formula). Otherwise this was great - thank you for taking the time to make such a thorough tutorial!
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Sure, I'm not arguing that anti-seize is a bad idea, just saying that reputable sources (in this case a maker of anti-seize) indicate that torque values should be adjusted down to account for the lubrication. I imagine (but don't really know) that car companies expect mechanics to over-torque just about everything with power tools, so I'd be surprised if they didn't engineer in a lot of latitude to those values. Still, over-torquing by 30% (ish) is quite a bit, and worth adjusting for. In any case, thanks for your reply, and again, for a great video.
Very thorough instructions. Thanks for that. I'm about to change the front pads on my 2017 CRV and I was wondering about the rear ones. They probably don't need changing yet but I have the car in my shop for summer tire change over so I may as well since the genuine Honda parts are in my hands.
No problem with reusing the stainless steel brake hardware as long as you clean it up. Given your in Canada, I was surprised you didn’t remove the hardware and clean the contact points on the calliper bracket. In regions where road salt is used it’s a good idea to do this and apply some brake grease or similar to prevent rust jacking under the stainless steel brake hardware, which could lead to your pads not moving freely.
I somehow missed/deleted some footage during editing. Going to try to find it and add it in. I cleaned all the contact points and either cleaned the sliders or added new ones if they came with them. The sliders are lubed and the pins as well. Thanks for your comment! Cheers! Rob
Thanks for STILL answering questions 4yrs after making this video! I recently watched a video, on the same job, produced by TRQ There were significant differences. One, they rotated the piston clockwise instead of pushing it straight in, and at the end, they only pumped the brakes and turned the EPB on and off without the car running. I know you used the Honda Tech manual and I would have thought, being a reputable organization, that they would have done the same thing. Thoughts?
@@1963Treeman You can wind the piston in with pressure but there are a lot of failures either with codes or damage to the EPB. I think it’s because of the lack of practical experience most of the viewers have. I try to be super thorough because many times this is the viewers first foray into auto mechanics. I have a video done manually and one done with the code reader. Remember, on UA-cam we get paid by views not by the success of others who have watched our videos. So people may be motivated more by views than by outcomes. Good luck with your repair! 🍻. Rob
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Sorry but I wasn't clear. They removed the EPB from the caliper and rotated the gear by hand just like you did. Then they pushed the caliper piston in by rotating it clockwise, with the special tool, instead of pushing it straight in. I don't think the caliper piston necessitates being spiraled into it's bore.
I found it on a Honda forum. They have all sorts of information. I didn't save it, just printed it and used it but I followed the steps exactly, including the torque specs. Good Luck with your repair! Cheers! Rob
Hey guy nice video, worked perfect !!! Thank you. But,,,,,,,next time please show how you bolt the motor back on 😁 yes, it's obvious enough but some days I'm pretty slow.
You just have to line up the sprockets. After you turn fully clockwise with the star socket, you may have to turn it back a little bit so the motor lines up with it. I had this problem the last time I did the rear brakes on my 2018 Cr-V (this last Saturday). If the two parts of the motor do not align, just twist maybe the star part about an 8th or so back until it lines up.
Electronic parking brake ridiculous. I’ve never used a parking brake in my life 50+ yrs of driving except with a manual transmission Porsche. What a waste of hardware. And now they are electronic…. Great video captured all the fine points!
Yeah same here (except the Porsche part). Electronic is actually a better set up for the disc brakes. I'm going to buy a scan tool to make it easier in the future. Thanks for your comment! Cheers! Rob
Muy bien tutorial paso a paso, muy buena guia, esperaba que me enseñara como ingresar la camioneta en el modo de servicio de frenos, pero quede muy satisfecho, sigue haciendo videos porfavor.
@@calebsaheb3159 just get the premium pads and rotors as they are the same quality as OEM parts. You may be able to select brands on certain websites but most part stores you get whatever brand they have available at the time.
You probably have to remove the disc brake cover for enough access. You may have to rotate the hub for clearance for each stud to be removed. I haven’t done it on this car but there is usually one spot that gives you enough clearance to remove the studs.
Thanks for your video! What is the mechanical reasoning behind retracting the Electronic Parking Brake with a T45 socket at the 10:31 mark? If it wasn't engaged before or during service, why then does it need to be fully retracted?
The car cycles the parking brake periodically and it may or may not be fully retracted so you may or may not get your new thicker rotor and thicker break pads on. If you force them in you could break the EPD. That's why you back them up. Or set them into maintenance mode if you have an expensive new code reader.
The automatic parking brake needs to be removed (and adjusted) before compressing the caliper? As an amateur I have never had to do this before on other calipers? Does the caliper compression tool need turned in or just pressed? These items were not specified and I’d like to know so that I can order the correct tools. Thanks! :))
I replaced my brakes using a scan tool to put them into maintenance mode. The hardest part was removing the set screw. Thank you for the detailed steps. My 2019 CR-V used a 12 mm socket and a 17 mm socket for the bracket.
@@robsgaragewoodworkin I bought the LAUNCH OBD2 Scanner CRP129X Car Code Reader Scan Tool for ABS SRS. I think someone gave me an amazon gift card and so it didn’t cost me too much. I have an Audi and a Volvo as well as my daughters CRV. It comes with free software updates which was the most important feature. I was going to get an app for my phone but you have to pay an annual subscription for each vehicle. I hope that helps.
This is a great video BUT when, exactly, did you put the electronic parking brake motor back on the caliper? That's not shown here. And did you put new locktite on the bolts that hold that parking brake motor in place when you reassembled?
I lost some footage of that part but you put it back in the way it came out. I put it back in after I wound it back. II didn’t use any more loctite on the bolts but if you want you can. Good luck with your repair! Cheers! Rob
Great Video, Thanks for this. My 2017 CR-V is 44k kms on it, since I bought it used, I am thinking of changing only the brake pads as I don't know the brake usage of previous owner. Is it fine to only change the Brake Pads at this time or its needed to change pads and rotors always?
The brakes are the MOST IMPORTANT system on your car. Change the rotors too. You should usually get 75-100 k on Honda brakes. Do a careful inspection and check the wear of both pads on all 4 corners. Also don't forget to lube the caliber slide pins and pad slide hardware. Good Luck with your repair! Cheers! Rob
Hi, bro did u replace your rear brake pads. How is it by following this video. Coz im planning my pads too but im little bit scared lights on dash after. Thanks
People show turning the piston in because that is the way they are retracting the EPB at the same time. However people are having all sorts of issues with that method so that's why I have shown the Honda manual procedure. So after you remove the EPB motor you turn the EPB shaft as per the instructions then you can freely push the caliper piston back in with a c clamp or caliper tool. Good Luck with your repair! Cheers! Rob
i pushed it in with a c clamp after I unbolted the motor and spin it in with a t45. to get the motor off, you need a T27 torx, quarter inch socket with an extension. brake job went well. hardest part was getting the motor bolted back up
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Once you have turned in the EPB and pushed back in the Cylinder, do you then re-attach the EPB motor with the shaft winded back in? Your video did not show how you re-attached the EPB motor. Thanks
@@waynenixon729 Yeah I somehow managed to omit that during the editing process. You can use the civic video here for reference. ua-cam.com/video/kyQFCIbVdYA/v-deo.html
Thanks for the great video Rob. However I have a couple of questions: 1: When you pressed the caliper with the tool, did you rotate the caliper as you were pressing, or just a straight press without rotation. 2: Since I’m Canadian as well, I’m curious to know where you got the rotors from? Thanks a lot.
You don't need to rotate the piston when you have already retracted it from the other side (weird I know but followed the Honda instructions) I got mine from a local independent guy - VSA in Barrie On. I also use Carquest and sometimes order parts from Rock Auto in the states. Got front and rear pads and rotors for $400 + tax (BTW you don't need the ceramic coated rotors) I have done this same procedure in both my civic and crv and verified the procedure with a Honda Tech just to make sure it was legit. Thanks for your comment and good luck with your repair! Cheers! Rob
Rob's Garage Woodworking Thanks for the info man. I’m in Barrie as well, what luck lol. Just got pads from Parts Source on Dunlop, but didn’t carry the rotors. Will definitely check VSA for sure. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
It was good but what I was wondering was how to replace the brake motor, WHICH YOU DIDNT SHOW, because I wanted to know if you had to add any kind of lube, silicone or just put it back on as is...
27:13 One point about using the click type torque wrenches, it needs to be torqued in one smooth motion so that the nut or bolt is moving right before it clicks. If you tighten it near but below the final torque, those multiple clicks are not actually doing anything because static friction is holding it stationary, and the torque may still be below the target. Always make sure the bolt is loose enough to move as you do the torque operation, and is moving right up until the first click. If you want to recheck the torque, you need to loosen it up first and repeat, rather than just clicking it again, which will only have any effect of it's significantly under torqued.
You should always replace your rotors or at least have them turned down. Your brake performance is much better especially when you factor in finicky ABS on icy roads.
Rob,
I did this job today and i am very thankful for this video. Everything worked out well.
Just small error, i broke the tiny clip lever on the electric brake switch. But that is life!
Thank you again for just amazing videos!!
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Excellent video! The caliper compress stumped me till I saw your handling of electric parking brake. Some of the comments are amazing, a lot of spoon fed babies out there.
I’m not normally one to comment on UA-cam videos, but I just wanted to thank you, Rob, for this video and the one that teaches the front brakes as well. You saved me a couple hundred dollars and taught me a thing or two in the process as well.
Thanks! Always nice to get feedback. I’m glad it helped!
Cheers!
Rob
I watched a few CRV rear brake videos and this is by far the best.
Thanks for your comment! I appreciate it!
Cheers!
Rob
Absolutely great video. A neighbor asked me to change his rear brakes + rotors on a 2018 Honda CRV. Your video was the key to a successful installation. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
I had watched a video or 2 before attempting the brake change and didnt recall seeing the ebrake component. Your video saved me in the middle of changing the back brakes! Jobs done and saved a lot of money doing it myself! Thanks again!
@@davidmack9303 You’re Welcome! Glad it went well!
Thank you Rob. I appreciate your vocal clarity and video edits. Great job.
You're Welcome!
Rob, followed your way to replace the rear pads for my 2017 Honda CR-V. It works great. Thank you so much for showing us the whole process. There is a minor slip of the tongue (I guess) you made at 10:38 in the video. The T45 bit (and the electronic thing) should be turned counterclockwise rather than clockwise. I've tried to turn it clockwise initially, but the piston can not be retracted no matter how hard I've struggled with my piston reactor tool. Turned the T45 counter-clockwise again, after that, the piston got reacted smoothly.
He's on the passenger side, service info says turn clockwise.
Thank you. I was about to follow another video that said to jump the motor to spin it clockwise electrically. This method makes so much more sense. Great info about the calibration as well.
Yeah, how can you know what polarity it is and how much voltage/current to apply? I saw those video's too.
Thanks for your comment!
Good Luck on your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Agreed. Like your method way more. Don't want to risk frying the electric motor or cause a problem with the ECU.
Thank you, you saved me a lot of money and your video is helpful and easy to follow. Was my 1st time changing a brake with e-parking brake.
This video is awesome. I just did a tire rotation and oil change on my wife's CRV and I was looking at the rear parking brake and wondering how it retracted for service.
Appreciate the video im not worried about doing them in the future!
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Thanks for this great video. It made the job so easy and fun. I couldn't have done this job without it. I was fortunate that the dealer mentioned I should watch a video on the rear brakes before attempting the job. One note: There is no video clip regarding the reassembly of the emergency brake motor. Not a big deal but I was a little unsure if rotating the shaft as I reassembled the motor was an issue- didn't seem to be. Thanks again!
Yes, somehow that part of the video got deleted. I did computer maintenance after and formatted my hard drive and I couldn't even modify the video. I usually refer people to my civic video for reference. Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Thank you very much! I have this job coming up on my wife's '17 CR-V, you made it look easy. I appreciate your time posting this for UA-cam land to reference!
Good Luck with your repair! Remember to calibrate the EPS following the instructions at the end of the video.
Awesome video! Been doing brakes for years and learned new tricks servicing Honda CR-V brakes.
THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!
Great video, Rob. For someone like me who has never changed brakes before, these were good instructions and information. Btw, thumbs up on the garage set up!
Thanks! Good luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Thank you. By far the most comprehensive instructions. Followed it and the job went super easy. The biggest challenge was ironically trying to disconnect the power harness for the motor. It’s a bit tricky indeed but once you find the right spot no issues. Keep up with a great vids.
Awesome! Time for a beer!
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
I didn't disconnect the wire harness since I wasn't trying to operate the motor, so that doesn't need to be done.
@@robsgaragewoodworkin
9:15 Was there a reason for using an extension like that instead of attaching the Torx bit directly? For a better view with camera angle?
@@wingerrrrrrrrr The hex bit was too large and hit the side of the assembly so I used a hex screwdriver bit in the 1/4 inch socket with the extension to clear the plastic side. Yeah it looks crazy. I think I did describe the reasoning but maybe it got edited out.
@@wingerrrrrrrrr yeah you don’t have to but I removed it to make it easier to work on and show in the video.
Thank you ! Perfect explanation of job . I really appreciate. My job turned out fantastic.
@@shutupdog11 Great work! Thanks for your comment! 🍻
Thank you very much for sharing, great video. I changed my rear brakes and rotors on my Honda crv 2017 with your outstanding tutorial. It was so hard to remove the two button bolts on the caliper. I had to use an extension bar and spray it with WD40.
Breaker bar for the win!
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Great video, I listen to UA-cam while I do things, like walk the dog & such, I have a 2021 CRV, I had no idea about the parking brake, I’ll have to remember that!!
Great Video, Thank you, you made my break replacement job a breeze and saved me a big Mechanic bill.
Hello fellow Canadian hello from Calgary Alberta the wife and I are buying a Honda CRV touring this month, good video thanks .
Hello Calgary! Awesome! You're gonna love it!
thank you for posting just bought a 2017 hrv very helpful to know this new break
It will be a very similar set up. Good Luck with your repair!
Thank you so much for this video. While I have a ‘18 Ody I too have the eBrake. Your step by step on that part is exactly what I needed. Keep it up!
Should be very similar. Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Very informative brake info.I will use this to clean up my brakes when I changeover my summer tires. Just a couple of items that I would draw to your attention; 1)It is my understanding that lubricating any fastener and then using a torque wrench will affect the values; over tightening the bolt. 2) when you tightened the wheel nut with the impact gun,I think the nuts where overtightened past the required torque and when you used the torque wrench, as the bolts where already tightened, you experienced the click. I think using the impact to only snug the rim and them finish the tightening using the torque wrench. I don’t lube my studs because they will be removed in 5-6 months when I change to the other tires.
You’re literally the most helpful person ever!
LOL! You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Good video, well explained, I have a 2020 Crv, which most likely I'll be doing the brakes soon.
Rob: Appreciate this video as I need to replace rear pads on a 2018 CRV in the near future and never had to deal with an EPB.
Thanks!
I appreciate this video. I’ve been looking for this before I had to deal with my new CR-V brakes. I even tried asking my dealership maintenance department. They where no help at all. Thank you.
You're welcome! They don't want you to know how because they want to charge $650 for rear brakes here in Canada. Actual parts cost is between $200-$250. Good Luck with your repair!
Pretty good insight thank you for sharing your video I learned something new very helpful specially I’m replacing my daughter rear brake 2018 Honda CR-V I enjoy watching your video thanks
Awesome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
AMAZING FULLY. DETAILED VIDEO AND IT WORKS NO ABS LIGHT ON MY DASH. THANK U SO MUCH.
Thanks again, this the reason I am not trying to replace my rear brake, I dont want to open the brake motor. This is very helpul. I can now replace my rear brake without running back to the dealer!
One of then best videos out there I always come back and watch it to make sure that I’m doing the job right 👍👍👍
Awesome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Rob you are the man !!! One of the best informative Intel on the Honda hrv !!
Good video, Sir. I really appreciated everything you did.. Calibrating rear brakes, what in the world. Dealer hook up😢😢😢. Thank you very much. Sir... Wade Out...
Accurate, thorough, complete, and clean. Awesome. Wanna show a valve adjustment?
Great information, thank you for helping me do my 1st brake job. I had to do a LOT of praying inserting the new pads as the spring clips kept flying off. Finally got it done though.
Yeah I had the euro rotor pads with the crappy push on spring clips. Never buying those again!
Great info Rob! Thanks for sharing 🤙🏼
You're welcome!
Outstanding video. Was about to press in the piston but thought better of it and watched this video before doing that.
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment! Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Hi, from Thunder Bay,Ontario, I came here for brakes, thanks for the great video, but I subscribed because I see woodworking on your name,,,I’m hooked,lol
Hello Thunder Bay! Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
This is an excellent video, having watched every one I could find on changing the rear pads and rotors on a 2017 CRV. I've never dealt with an EPB before. I would take exception to your point about anti-seize not changing torque values, though. Here's a link to a page on the ROCOL site (they make industrial lubes) explaining how to calculate a lower torque value for a fastener with anti-seize applied to it (seems to be about 30% lower, but I'd follow their formula). Otherwise this was great - thank you for taking the time to make such a thorough tutorial!
@@Belloc I live in Canada. It’s anti seize or a torch
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Sure, I'm not arguing that anti-seize is a bad idea, just saying that reputable sources (in this case a maker of anti-seize) indicate that torque values should be adjusted down to account for the lubrication. I imagine (but don't really know) that car companies expect mechanics to over-torque just about everything with power tools, so I'd be surprised if they didn't engineer in a lot of latitude to those values. Still, over-torquing by 30% (ish) is quite a bit, and worth adjusting for. In any case, thanks for your reply, and again, for a great video.
@@Belloc No worries, glad everything went well! Thanks for your comment.
Great video. Electronic parking brake info was vital. Thanks
I followed your e break video and it work perfect! Thank you!
Awesome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Thanks a lot Rob , you did save a lot of money, I learned a lot from your videos, god bless you 😊
Nice job there Rob! I wouldn't have done anything different except hand tighten the lug nuts (no air gun) before using the torque wrench. ;-) -Glen
Thank you for this knowledge sharing am an automobile technician duo I love this. Thanks ones again
Very thorough instructions. Thanks for that. I'm about to change the front pads on my 2017 CRV and I was wondering about the rear ones. They probably don't need changing yet but I have the car in my shop for summer tire change over so I may as well since the genuine Honda parts are in my hands.
Easy savings and fun to do! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Done now. The rear pads still have way too much life left to fool with at 30,000 miles.
Really detailed video, thank you so much!
No problem with reusing the stainless steel brake hardware as long as you clean it up.
Given your in Canada, I was surprised you didn’t remove the hardware and clean the contact points on the calliper bracket. In regions where road salt is used it’s a good idea to do this and apply some brake grease or similar to prevent rust jacking under the stainless steel brake hardware, which could lead to your pads not moving freely.
I somehow missed/deleted some footage during editing. Going to try to find it and add it in. I cleaned all the contact points and either cleaned the sliders or added new ones if they came with them. The sliders are lubed and the pins as well. Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Watching from France. I like your video with very good explanation Sir.Thanks . Merci beaucoup.
You are welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Thanks for STILL answering questions 4yrs after making this video! I recently watched a video, on the same job, produced by TRQ There were significant differences. One, they rotated the piston clockwise instead of pushing it straight in, and at the end, they only pumped the brakes and turned the EPB on and off without the car running. I know you used the Honda Tech manual and I would have thought, being a reputable organization, that they would have done the same thing. Thoughts?
@@1963Treeman You can wind the piston in with pressure but there are a lot of failures either with codes or damage to the EPB. I think it’s because of the lack of practical experience most of the viewers have. I try to be super thorough because many times this is the viewers first foray into auto mechanics. I have a video done manually and one done with the code reader. Remember, on UA-cam we get paid by views not by the success of others who have watched our videos. So people may be motivated more by views than by outcomes.
Good luck with your repair!
🍻. Rob
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Sorry but I wasn't clear. They removed the EPB from the caliper and rotated the gear by hand just like you did. Then they pushed the caliper piston in by rotating it clockwise, with the special tool, instead of pushing it straight in. I don't think the caliper piston necessitates being spiraled into it's bore.
@ Really? Lol! They wouldn’t need to rotate the piston if they removed the epb.
Can you share the Honda Tech Instructions you used? Nice work explaining the process.
I found it on a Honda forum. They have all sorts of information. I didn't save it, just printed it and used it but I followed the steps exactly, including the torque specs.
Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Excellent video! Thank you. Worked perfectly on my 2018 CR-V.
Hey guy nice video, worked perfect !!! Thank you. But,,,,,,,next time please show how you bolt the motor back on 😁 yes, it's obvious enough but some days I'm pretty slow.
You just have to line up the sprockets. After you turn fully clockwise with the star socket, you may have to turn it back a little bit so the motor lines up with it. I had this problem the last time I did the rear brakes on my 2018 Cr-V (this last Saturday). If the two parts of the motor do not align, just twist maybe the star part about an 8th or so back until it lines up.
Good evening very informative video is it the same for the Honda hrv with the electronic parking brake
I haven't done one but it's likely to be very similar.
Thanks for your educational video
Electronic parking brake ridiculous. I’ve never used a parking brake in my life 50+ yrs of driving except with a manual transmission Porsche. What a waste of hardware. And now they are electronic…. Great video captured all the fine points!
Yeah same here (except the Porsche part). Electronic is actually a better set up for the disc brakes. I'm going to buy a scan tool to make it easier in the future. Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Gracias me ayudo bastante para mi CR-V 2017 Touring
Very nice!! Well explained Thank you! You got my thumbs up
@@J-RodRodriguez Awesome! Good luck with your repair!
Muy bien tutorial paso a paso, muy buena guia, esperaba que me enseñara como ingresar la camioneta en el modo de servicio de frenos, pero quede muy satisfecho, sigue haciendo videos porfavor.
Saved me alot of time and money! Great video!
whats the name of rotor and brake pad?, most of the videos, they dont talk much about the brand of rotor and pads. anyways great video thank you
@@calebsaheb3159 just get the premium pads and rotors as they are the same quality as OEM parts. You may be able to select brands on certain websites but most part stores you get whatever brand they have available at the time.
Great video. Just wondering what the clearance is for replacing the studs and if it's enough space with what you've removed at 19:11 in your video.
You probably have to remove the disc brake cover for enough access. You may have to rotate the hub for clearance for each stud to be removed. I haven’t done it on this car but there is usually one spot that gives you enough clearance to remove the studs.
Very informative!! Thank you for putting this together!!
Very Good Tutorial 👍
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Thanks for your video! What is the mechanical reasoning behind retracting the Electronic Parking Brake with a T45 socket at the 10:31 mark? If it wasn't engaged before or during service, why then does it need to be fully retracted?
The car cycles the parking brake periodically and it may or may not be fully retracted so you may or may not get your new thicker rotor and thicker break pads on. If you force them in you could break the EPD. That's why you back them up. Or set them into maintenance mode if you have an expensive new code reader.
Thank you for the indept explanations, I appreciate you technical help.
and my job was a lot easier than I originally thought it would be. From a retire mechanic in the Chi. just helping out family.
Thanks for the video. It is very helpful.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Muy buen trabajo y bien explicado amigo. Graciassss!!!
Excellent video for this purpose. Thank you
You are welcome!
The automatic parking brake needs to be removed (and adjusted) before compressing the caliper? As an amateur I have never had to do this before on other calipers? Does the caliper compression tool need turned in or just pressed? These items were not specified and I’d like to know so that I can order the correct tools. Thanks! :))
Rob you the best man
Thanks!
I replaced my brakes using a scan tool to put them into maintenance mode. The hardest part was removing the set screw.
Thank you for the detailed steps. My 2019 CR-V used a 12 mm socket and a 17 mm socket for the bracket.
What brand of scan tool did you get?
@@robsgaragewoodworkin I bought the LAUNCH OBD2 Scanner CRP129X Car Code Reader Scan Tool for ABS SRS.
I think someone gave me an amazon gift card and so it didn’t cost me too much. I have an Audi and a Volvo as well as my daughters CRV.
It comes with free software updates which was the most important feature.
I was going to get an app for my phone but you have to pay an annual subscription for each vehicle.
I hope that helps.
Thank you and it was well explained.
@@asgarallihaniff7417 You’re welcome! Thanks for your comment! 🍻
Thanks for sharing this video Rob.
You're welcome!
Really, tank you so much.
You're welcome!
This is a great video BUT when, exactly, did you put the electronic parking brake motor back on the caliper? That's not shown here. And did you put new locktite on the bolts that hold that parking brake motor in place when you reassembled?
I lost some footage of that part but you put it back in the way it came out. I put it back in after I wound it back. II didn’t use any more loctite on the bolts but if you want you can.
Good luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
When using the clamp to push in the caliper piston, does the piston have to rotate or is that not necessary?
No. This method you wind back the motor with the motor removed (manual Honda instructions) and you just push the piston back normally.
Great Video, Thanks for this. My 2017 CR-V is 44k kms on it, since I bought it used, I am thinking of changing only the brake pads as I don't know the brake usage of previous owner. Is it fine to only change the Brake Pads at this time or its needed to change pads and rotors always?
The brakes are the MOST IMPORTANT system on your car. Change the rotors too. You should usually get 75-100 k on Honda brakes. Do a careful inspection and check the wear of both pads on all 4 corners. Also don't forget to lube the caliber slide pins and pad slide hardware. Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Thank You
Hi, bro did u replace your rear brake pads. How is it by following this video. Coz im planning my pads too but im little bit scared lights on dash after. Thanks
Nice video. Well done! Thank you.
Would this work on a HRV?
Im assuming it looks exactly the same.
@@Weebos815 it would be similar but I’m not sure if it’s exactly the same
Thank you your video helped me so much sir
Ur Guidance was very understanding thank u
Thanks a lot ! From Mexico CDMX, Gracias!
You’re welcome! Thanks for the comment!
Cheers!
Rob
works perfectly! thanks! Great usefull video
Any need to use the "F" attachment on the piston compression tool to rotate the piston while compressing it?
No. When you remove the motor you wind it back at the motor side not the piston side.
Can you put both back brakes on and then calibrate them or do each on separate
You do them together
Excellent video Rob! Thank you very much. Can I ask where did you get your Honda instructions from?
There are Honda Forums - I found it on one of those. Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Great video Rob. What size are the bolts to remove the rotors if hammering it won't work to remove it.
I meant to check that to add to the video and forgot. Sorry
@@robsgaragewoodworkin M8 x 1.25
Hi, you didn’t show reassembly of the electric motor, do you have to turn it back counter clockwise before you install or just reinstall it?
You just reinstall the electric motor as is, the calibration that is done towards the end is needed
Awesome video!!! You just got another subscriber.
Thanks for subbing
Great video You are the man Sir 👍👍
Very informative video. Thx for sharing. Keep up the good work.
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Just did the front pads, I’m not touching the rear breaks right now, might just do it at the dealer. I hate electronics lol
Most helpful. Many thanks.
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
So I can use a c clamp and just push the piston in after I turn the motor in correct? I thought you had to turn the piston clockwise not push it in
People show turning the piston in because that is the way they are retracting the EPB at the same time. However people are having all sorts of issues with that method so that's why I have shown the Honda manual procedure. So after you remove the EPB motor you turn the EPB shaft as per the instructions then you can freely push the caliper piston back in with a c clamp or caliper tool.
Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
i pushed it in with a c clamp after I unbolted the motor and spin it in with a t45. to get the motor off, you need a T27 torx, quarter inch socket with an extension. brake job went well. hardest part was getting the motor bolted back up
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Once you have turned in the EPB and pushed back in the Cylinder, do you then re-attach the EPB motor with the shaft winded back in? Your video did not show how you re-attached the EPB motor. Thanks
@@waynenixon729 Yeah I somehow managed to omit that during the editing process. You can use the civic video here for reference. ua-cam.com/video/kyQFCIbVdYA/v-deo.html
@@waynenixon729 A light coating of SylGlyde on the o ring helps with installation of the motor assy
Thanks for the great video Rob. However I have a couple of questions:
1: When you pressed the caliper with the tool, did you rotate the caliper as you were pressing, or just a straight press without rotation.
2: Since I’m Canadian as well, I’m curious to know where you got the rotors from?
Thanks a lot.
You don't need to rotate the piston when you have already retracted it from the other side (weird I know but followed the Honda instructions)
I got mine from a local independent guy - VSA in Barrie On. I also use Carquest and sometimes order parts from Rock Auto in the states. Got front and rear pads and rotors for $400 + tax (BTW you don't need the ceramic coated rotors)
I have done this same procedure in both my civic and crv and verified the procedure with a Honda Tech just to make sure it was legit.
Thanks for your comment and good luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Rob's Garage Woodworking
Thanks for the info man. I’m in Barrie as well, what luck lol.
Just got pads from Parts Source on Dunlop, but didn’t carry the rotors. Will definitely check VSA for sure.
Keep up the good work.
Cheers.
Just push it in also u can press it by ur fingers
It was good but what I was wondering was how to replace the brake motor, WHICH YOU DIDNT SHOW, because I wanted to know if you had to add any kind of lube, silicone or just put it back on as is...
Important step that was missed?!
On the brake, do you counter screw back what was screwed in before pushing back the piston?
@@douglassandiego1852 you don't need to as when you pull the e-brake it will torque back into place.
Great instructional video!!!!
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
27:13 One point about using the click type torque wrenches, it needs to be torqued in one smooth motion so that the nut or bolt is moving right before it clicks. If you tighten it near but below the final torque, those multiple clicks are not actually doing anything because static friction is holding it stationary, and the torque may still be below the target.
Always make sure the bolt is loose enough to move as you do the torque operation, and is moving right up until the first click.
If you want to recheck the torque, you need to loosen it up first and repeat, rather than just clicking it again, which will only have any effect of it's significantly under torqued.
Worked perfectly
Awesome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Great sequel!
Great video. Thank you for the info. What made you decide to replace your rotors?
You should always replace your rotors or at least have them turned down. Your brake performance is much better especially when you factor in finicky ABS on icy roads.