DIY Honda CR-V Front Brake Repair 2017 -2021
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- Today I replaced the front brakes on my 2017 Honda CRV. Full instructional video replacing the pads and rotors including torque specs. Dealer wanted $600+tax and it only cost me $200 Canadian. Save your money!
Thanks for the video bud. I changed my front rotors and pads today on my 2018 crv thanks to you. Took me about 2-2 1/2. Hours. Never done it before but it came out nice. First side took me about an hour and a half. Other side took about 30mins once I knew what I was doing. Thanks again :)
That sounds exactly like the first time I did the brakes on my 1990 Oldsmobile!
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
I was always told to remove master cyl cap before I force fluid backwards. Don’t know if that is still so today
Very well done video sir! I coming back to your videos anytime I work on my CRV. I ended up drilling the screw holding the rotor on my friend’s CRV, but then a Honda mechanic taught me a simple trick: just use a chisel (sorry friend 😂). It went out immediately.
As of July 2023, I paid a hefty $381.84 CAD + tax ($439.02 in QC) for original Honda parts ($138.67/rotor x 2, $103.02/brake pads set, and $0.74/screw x2, plus applicable taxes). That was fun! Thanks again Rob!
The premium parts are equivalent to Honda OEM parts. The Honda front discs are ceramic coated to prevent rust before assembly and use. You don’t need that either but some manufacturers offer it. I get my parts from Rock Auto in the States. Even with cost of shipping it’s 1/2 the price of buying here.
@@robsgaragewoodworkin There are too many types of rotors listed on RockAuto, which one do you buy? Daily Driver, Fully Coated, High Performance?
@@cd5453 I think daily driver is their premium range. Then they have performance after that. Ceramic coated is to prevent rust just like oil coated where you have to clean the oil off with brake cleaner. Those are usually more expensive but not necessarily better. I try to find fully ceramic pads on sale if I can. Sometimes you get lucky.
Been there, done that. RockAuto is great. I also go by Napa and just casually ask for 20% off on Akebono brake pads and they have obliged which was a pleasant surprise.
When I use a C clamp, I put the old brake pad on the piston
You’re an excellent mechanic and I admired the way you do it. Good health and god’s speed!
Thanks!
Cheers!
Rob
just saved me a lot of money at the dealer thank you my guy👍
Very clear and professional! 👍 Now about that lawn……
Excellent video! Explained every point clearly. Subscribed.
When pressing the piston back in, I like to open the bleeder port and allow the old fluid to pass through a vinyl tube into a plastic container. I don't like pushing the old fluid back up into the master cylinder. Also like to go ahead and put new fluid in and flush the system while you are working on the brakes and easier to bleed with the wheels off.
Great job!!!! You explained this perfectly. Thank you very much 👍🏻.
Great video, Rob!!! Very well done and you explain things very well and clearly!! Keep putting out great videos sir. 🙏🏽 Happy New Year to you. 🙏🏽
Thanks for your comment! Happy New Year!
Cheers!
Rob
Very good vid well covered
Great video. Thanks for the torque specs.
Another Rob here
Just did pads, clean, and lube my 2017 CRV
I see you have the OEM tires
When time for new rubber
I suggest set of Michelin Cross Climate, Defender, Defender M&S, or MXV4 if can still find them
Cheers
thanks for the informative videos, great help on my 2017crv brake job
Why is the squealer on top? The squealer/wear indicator should be on trailing end (bottom in your case) so that it does not get jammed into the brake system should the wear indicator come loose. Also trailing edge wear indicators elongates instead of being compressed on the leading edge when it is dragging on the rotor, which will cause the squeal to be louder and more noticeable.
Nice video really helpful. Hi Rob, i did changing my front brakes everything looks fine but my left front brake I heard squeaking once in while when I press the brake at speed of 65 kmp.. Thanks and appreciate your help.
OK! So make sure you have all the right parts in all the right places (brake pads are on the right way and right position - it's easy to install the squealer on the wrong side). Make sure your pads have the shims on them. (they are to prevent squealing) If everything is tight and checks out then I have a couple of suggestions.
1) Make sure you lube all the sliding parts as shown in the video.
2) You can get a product called "disc brake quiet" which is like an RTV adhesive for brakes to reduce squealing. Put a bit on the back of the pad where it comes in contact with the brake piston. Put a little bit where the back of the other pad contacts the caliper. Some people swear by this and others don't. So I can't guarantee it.
Sometimes there is just a bad pad that can cause issues or it may go away on it's own.
Good Luck!
Rob
Rob, thanks for the excellent video. Now I know I can do the job with no curve balls!
Awesome! Good Luck on your repair!
Great video you should open the hood and watch the level of the brake fluid when retracting the caliper piston other than that A1 job
I used to do that but the level never ever approached the capacity of the reservoir on any vehicle, so now I don't bother
@@robsgaragewoodworkin thank you for responding back I was successful doing the job watching your video saved 500 bucks for my girlfriend I put the clips on the pads but I did have to take out some fluid I used rolled up some toilet paper and absorbed it out to the right level God bless you thank you for getting back
@@brianszanyi5538 Careful with brake fluid it eats paint.
@@mauricedalzot5445 yes brake fluid is very corrosive it's a strange liquid but that was a great video I did the brakes save my girlfriend $520 she was grateful he did a great video but you do have to check that fluid cuz when you push the Piston back it'll overflow I use toilet paper to absorb the excess I roll it up it takes it right out absorbs it
Great video! Will definitely come in use. Cheers to that beer.
You're welcome! Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Paying $700+tax in Ontario today to do this for the front 2 wheels - lol just found this video now.
Cool this is a really good video well explained thanks for that.
Thanks for your comment! Glad you liked it!
Cheers!
Rob
Thank you for the detail video, explained things really well.
Good detail. Thanks for the effort.
Very good video! Well explained. Thank you!
Great video, well done.
Thanks! Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Those are not phillips head screws holding the rotor on, those are Japanese industery standard screws. They are very similar. I bought some J.I.S screwdrivers for my CRV..
As they say - you learn something new every day...
That's why you find so many butchered screws on old Japanese motorcycles.
@@mauricedalzot5445 correct
Just use the C-clamp with and old brake pad in place
yep that works!
If you still have that vehicle a video about coolant change would be great.
Yes I should do that!
very useful video. many thanks.
Amazing video thank you 🙏 I’m enjoy this video
Merci pour ces précieuses informations.
You did a really good job!
Thank you pal. Just saved me alot of $$$ 👍
Very good
I don’t do the rotors on the first brake service
Just pads, usually
For best performance you should change both. I understand the savings but for ABS performance in wet and icy weather, it's best practice to do a full service. Cheaper than an accident IMO.
Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
GOOD VIDEO THANKS
Excellent video. I wonder if you could suggest good-quality brakes and rotors for my front brakes!
I just buy the premium parts from the parts store. Check around for pricing. You can save a bit of money there too. Check out RockAuto.
Thanks for that! great video.
Awesome! Thanks for your comment!
Great video step by step you covered it all - totally appreciate a nice easy understandable video - can you tell me are the rear brakes on a Honda 2018 cr-v replaced the same way as the front brakes ?
ua-cam.com/video/dtq83DJtsD4/v-deo.html
Merry Christmas Rob
Merry Christmas!
Thanks Rob!
You're welcome! Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Excellent!
Thanks for your comment!
Good Luck on your repair!
I have a question? If you remove the bolts and damage them, is it necessary to put them back?
hello there. Could the Brake pad squealer goes in the inboard bottom? I was changing my pads and I found it like that. Thank you
My front brakes were changed and the garage put on "the standard brake pad and rotor" instead of Honda parts. As I drove out I noticed a scraping noise that increased with speed and then becomes more of a whirring noise almost like a locomotive. Brought it back and they said " we don't see anything wrong." Started exactly when they replaced the front brake pads and rotors. Had everything else checked out(alignment, tires, etc) and it's 100% related to the new brakes. So what's causing the new noise? Any guesses? What should be my next step? Thank you.
Lol! My bet is they bent the water deflector cover. The one that is super close to the inside of the rotor. Pop off the wheel and check it. Lots of Mechanics are inept. That’s why I DIY. Just bend it out where it makes contact just enough to clear the disc. 1/8th inch or 5mm
Great video excellent 👏👏👍🏻
Thank you 👍
Helpful video to everyone. I want to know what size of bolt you used to pull out the rotor just in case? Thank u so much God bless u. Hope next video on how to change spark plug on crv 17. Thanks
I meant to check the size and add it to the video but totally forgot. Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
@@robsgaragewoodworkinupdate the size please and thank you.
Hi rob, what kind of rotor brand did u use. Thanks
Very helpful video, working on my Dad's 2018 this weekend. So you don't need to grease the back of the pads?
No. They used to use a silicone adhesive to prevent the pads from chattering but they use nothing for this design.
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Thanks Rob!
Great Video. Any calibration required after changing the front pads?
No. Thankfully they are straightforward. Good Luck on your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Is it safe to change only the breack pad?
Do I have to replace the router also if it's good?
Brakes are the most important safety system in your car. Get premium parts and don’t do 1/2 a job. Rock Auto has great value parts.
Excellent video. I followed your instructions on my 17 CRV and all worked very well.
Are you planning on making a video on changing the rear brakes? Namely on how to retract the rear caliber with electric parking brake. Thanks.
I need to re-video the epb portion of my video (editing it now) as it didn't show fully. If you need instructions right away just follow the civic rear brake video. Just slightly different - uses allen key caliper mounts and a torx socket on the civic and hex bolts and torx bit on CRV. Exact same instructions. My new CRV video will be up Saturday night.
ua-cam.com/video/kyQFCIbVdYA/v-deo.html
Hello Rob. Great video. I have looked through the comments and the video description, I can't seem to find the size of the bolts needed to assist in removing the rotor if necessary. What size are the bolts? Thank you in advance.
I don’t know the exact size. Just try some different ones and see what fits. You probably won’t need them anyway. They “usually” come off with not too much hassle. Good luck on your repair!
M8-1.25x35mm
But Rob what about bedding the brakes? I've warped a rotor before by not doing it.
Also, I haven't gotten into My CR V yet, but anti-seize on the caliper brackets? A lot of manufactures put Loctite.
You can bleed the brakes if you feel the need but since we didn't open the brake lines or bleeder valve, no air gets in. Anti seize is perfectly safe and anyone who works on cars a lot uses it liberally. I haven't seen locktite on brakes except for the EPB bolts on the back of the CRV EPB motor. However the civic uses a similar system but no locktite on the civic. Weird... Also if you can't get the bolts out of the steering knuckle (where the caliper mount bolts bolt onto) you will be in for a very expensive repair. Good Luck with your repair!
Cheers!
Rob
Responding to you you are correct I would put a medium grade loctite on those bolts never a lubricant
Great video! How did the 1.5T engines perform? I'm in two minds whether to buy the older model 2.0 ivtech or the new 1.5t?
I’ve only driven the 1.5 Turbo which is supposed to be faster than the old SI. Not fast off the line but the turbo builds quickly so your high rpm is where it shines. Bonus points for a nice, economical, good mileage family car. I usually get 5.9L per 100k. Less in city driving.
@@robsgaragewoodworkin q
Nice vid. Do you have any for the rear brakes of the same vehicle ?
ua-cam.com/video/dtq83DJtsD4/v-deo.html
Bro people looking to DIY brakes know how jack a vehicle and remove a tire. Other than that good information
I know what you mean, but there are a lot of inexperienced people on UA-cam and many people don't know how to do things properly like using the jack points on a car or using jack stands for safety. That's why I include it. Experienced people can just skip ahead. Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
Hey rob. Looking for a copy of the service manual somewhere or at least the pages with information for replacing front and rear pads and rotors. Any idea where I can find that and print it out?
Apparently you used to be able to buy the whole manual from Honda. Apparently now you can only “rent” info online for each specific repair. This is what I have been told. They also stopped making Chiltons repair manuals for new cars. There are Honda forums on the internet that can be quite helpful. That’s where I got my printout for the EPB.
@@robsgaragewoodworkin I appreciate it. I’ll do some digging in the forums
Just a suggestion: Irecommend applying brake lube to the hub contact points of the brake pads (the hubs that you retracted in the early part of the video).
I might have missed that on this video but I think I covered it in the civic video. Thanks for your comment!
Cheers!
Rob
The dealer (non Honda) who sold me a 2018 CRV did the brake pad and rotor job for me and now I have a high pitched squeal, even after 300 miles, when braking. Any ideas?
Have you done brakes before? It’s not that hard. You will have to remove everything to check it out anyway, I’d just get new premium parts and redo it. You could be farting around with it to try to find the issue and it could be pads or the rotor or it could just need lubricated. (Sometimes something stupid like pads in wrong orientation). On the older Honda’s they would put silicone on the back of the pads contact point against the piston circle and the contact point of the pad on caliper to prevent noise. You really don’t know until you take it apart. Could be a hard part in the pad or stone wedged into the pad. I did my civic rear brakes because of a stone. It’s really aggravating but parts aren’t very expensive. Good luck!
Cheers
Rob
I tried to take out the 19mm bolts, but they were super tight and couldn't even get them loose with my impact. What are the torque spec for them?
The wheel nuts are 80 foot pounds. Some impact drivers and some air compressors aren’t strong enough. Use a breaking bar. I think I show it in the video.
@@robsgaragewoodworkin Just got it out with my breaker bar, thanks!
Do you need to bleed the brakes on them 2019 crv
No because you didn’t open the bleeder valve or take off the brake hose. No air entered the system so no air needs to be bled out.
Any idea what brand pads Honda uses?
Theirs are branded Honda of course but their supplier…. Hmmm…. I don’t know off hand but if I find out I’ll let you know.
What are the torque specs for the lug nuts?
80 foot pounds
Look new
So why would you waste money changing the rotors? on a 2017 car that 3 years old ?
I always change the rotors and pads at the same time.
So you see how the dealerships try to screw you over with what they're trying to do and I hate to be the Grinch on Christmas
Yep! Not Grinchy at all. It's the truth.
Squaler should be on the bottom 🤔