Yamaha F150 Water Pump Impeller F115 F200 F225
Вставка
- Опубліковано 3 тра 2021
- Produced and brought to you by Outboard Specialty Tools, outboardst.com/
Tyler Holland offer a step by step tutorial on water pump replacement, an essential maintenance procedure on all outboards. This video, the parts kit and procedures apply specifically to Yamaha F115 F150 F200 (3.3L and 2.8L), F225. We cover how to remove the gear case, replace the water pump impeller, housing and gasket set as well as replacing a broken speedometer pick-up and inspecting other aspects of the Yamaha outboard cooling system. There are many general methods in this video which apply to all outboards, and we also cover the aspects of the F150 "61A" water pump repair kit which make this motor, and others using the same kit, unique This water pump kit and housing, and another nearly identical kit, is used on a huge number of Yamaha models and horsepower from F115 F150 F200 (inline and V6), F225. The techniques used in this video are the same for any Yamaha outboard using this kit. We also show you how to remove the drive shaft collar without the need for any "special tools" as well as how to replace a broken speedometer pick-up. We also cover the basics of re-installing the gear case and some things to avoid. - Авто та транспорт
Ive used your videos to save thousands on Maintenence and repairs. Thanks for helping keep the working man in boating!
I’ve seen many similar videos, yours is the only one that showed the parts on the pump housing being transferred over to the new one. Very helpful.
Love the no nonsense approach. 3200 hours on my twin 150s thanks to you!
Thanks, and that is awesome. Those F150's are still babies!
Great video! Camera work and explanations are all excellent. Thank you for the great work.
Thanks, long time overdue, but we wanted to publish a water pump video since it is one of the easiest and most essential of DIY jobs. And this particular motor has a couple oddities that one doesn't see everyday.
Great job and great explanation.
Great video. Very Detailed! Now I need to take my lower unit down and put it back together correctly!! Thanks for talking about all the parts involved.
This video saved me today thank you
Gratulálok! Nagyon szép, és részletes munka!!! Sokat segít a videód!!! További sok sikert!! :)
Excellent video. Will be replacing the impeller on my Yamaha F150 very soon.
Awesome, if you have any questions while you are turning wrenches, email me.
Good video, good jobs! Thank you!
Awesome video. Thanks so much for sharing and the details!
All good, thanks!
Saved me a ton of money. Watched a bunch of good videos on this and this one was the most helpful. Thanks Man
Glad to hear. Thanks!
you tell it like it is .Thank you
Looks like you do. thanks for the video
Awesome presentation!
Thanks!
Great video! Thanks. Joe T
Thanks Joe
Tyler, thanks for the great video. All is going smooth so far with my water pump service on my 150txr. Water pump has been removed & I’m preparing the new kit for installation. The issue that I’m having is that the gear case seems to be in gear. Before removing the gear case I did quickly move the move the shifter to the neutral position but I neglected to confirm neutral at the gear case by checking the propellor for movement. Can the shifter spline on the gear case be turned to engage(find) neutral on the gear case or should I reinstall the case while in gear? I would assume that I would need to move the shifter lever to the forward position before reinstalling the gear case if I was to leave it in forward gear? Thanks!
Working on the water pump repair kit for a 2009 F150txr. I want to advise against using a chisel even an old one. In my case it was cutting into the dowel, I even put some wd40 and tapped it with a hammer to get it loose. I almost gave up but then I decided to use a flat screw driver and that worked much better. Hopes this helps someone else.
This is the best Yamaha waterpump vid. Very informative. Only issue is the volume isn't quite enough at times for some extremely cheaply made cell phone speakers. This is a winner.
Sir can make video how to open a throttle valve carburator of yamaha 50hp 2012 model??thanks
Thanks so much for the in-depth information. I really do appreciate it!
I've heard that the Yamaha 150's are known for having some issues with a hard bump/grind when going into drive. I'll start by adjusting the shift cable and see if that helps with the hard bump/grind I get every time I put it in drive.
As for getting the lower unit to slide in place, even though I had to shift it into drive to get it to go, as long as it goes back in neutral, drive and reverse properly, I shouldn't have any problems. Right?
I tested it after installation and it goes in neutral, drive and reverse fine. Water's not peeing out of the tell tale really strong and took about a minute for it to start peeing a little spitting and sputtering and finally it started a steady stream. I was using ears and my garden hose. Hose was about 40 yards from the spicket so that might have something to do with it.
I pulled the hose off the fuel and water cooler and that is clear. I ran a 100lb test line from there to the other side where it enters into the outer cover exhaust and that is clean. I even pulled off the outer cover exhaust hose and ran about 1.5 feet of the 100lb test line through that. It's a little better stream now, but not what I think it should be. Shouldn't it be a high pressure flow?
Thanks again for all your knowledge!
Yes it should have high flow as long as the weep hose isn't kinked anywhere. Low weep pressure could be a possibility that the water pump impeller fins weren't rotated into the correct orientation to match the direction as the original waterpump. It will still pump some but not very strong.
Hey Tyler, I'm a new subscriber but have seen a couple of your videos. They are great! Very informative! This one, replacing the impeller, saved me a ton of money and was fairly simple, just had to wait on the collar and bushing since they didn't come with the kit. I have a question, when I went to put the lower unit back in, I left it in neutral, but could not get it to seat, so I put the shift into forward and it slide right in. After I did that, I put it back in neutral and it all works fine. Is that normal? One more question, when I put the boat in forward, if makes a terrible grinding sound as it goes in gear. This is not something that just started, it's done this since I've had it. Bought it back in Jan 2020 and it has always done this. Is this normal? It's a 2009 150 Yamaha four stroke. Thanks again for your videos!
Hi, it is not unusual for the shift rods to be a bit stubborn when re-installing the gear case. Debris or degraded grease buildup can cause interference with the splines on the rods, and also Yamaha usually has an o-ring seated in the midsection shift rod, hard to see, that can trap debris, grease etc and cause interference or even air lock preventing the shift rods from seating properly. That said, if the gear case shift rod and shift linkage on the motor are both in neutral, and with shift cable and linkage properly adjusted, the gear case and midsection shift rods should always be aligned, and shouldn't fight too much on re-install. If the controls are in neutral and the gear case in in forward or reverse, the rods should be out of alignment and there should be no way for the shift rods to couple. However it is not unusual for the gear case shift rod to accidentally shift into gear during gear case removal or while being serviced on the bench. In all cases, I would definitely inspect the shift cable and shift linkage for proper adjustment. All Yamaha 4 strokes with mechanical controls have alignment markers on the shift linkage and the tray the linkage rides in to visually verify proper alignment. Look for the clip securing the shift cable to the linkage. The alignment marks should be directly beneath. If they are out of alignment, disconnect the shift cable and adjust the cable length accordingly until the marks align. Also inspect the plastic threaded cable connector fitting for excessive wear/cracking and replace if it shows any sign of deformation/breakage. It should rotate easily in both directions once the jam nut on the cable is loosened.
The chatter you are hearing on forward shift is likely caused by excessive wear/rounding on the teeth of the clutch dog and forward gear. The teeth on the clutch dog and gear set are machined nice and sharp with a bit of undercut, in order to click into and stay in gear during shift and in gear operation. When the leading edges of the gear set are worn or rounded, the teeth will chatter as the clutch dog moves from neutral position to in gear until the clutch dog is shifted completely into its in gear position and there is enough contact between the clutch dog and forward (or reverse) gear to stay clicked in gear. The wear can get so bad that the motor will slip out of gear, especially on smaller HP.
This is a common and nasty issue that is irreversible usually until the gear set is replaced. Gear chatter is normally caused by one or both of the following: The previous owner was in the habit of shifting too slowly, trying to be gentle, into and out of gear. Avoid this tendency because it will slowly erode the leading edges of the gear set as they slowly move into gear. Shift into and out of gear quickly ( not so quickly that you accidentally slam the throttle cable into wide open throttle). Avoid slowly shifting into gear. The other cause can be that the shift cable has been out of adjustment for a long
time, causing the clutch dog to always be slightly out of position. This is less common than the first situation wherein the owner is prone to being too gentle and slow during shift. The gear set is designed to shift quickly.
Great video. I recently did mine but when i went to test my shifting while the engine was running it had a good amount of grinding before going into gear, forward and reverse. This grind wasnt there before replacing pump. would this be a miss aligned shifter?
Hi Andrew, I am sorry for late reply to your question. This gear chatter would appear to be an alignment issue. I would check to verify that the shift cable is properly adjusted and the linkage alignment marks are aligned at neutral. It is also possible that the clutch dog and reverse/forward gears have some rounding on the leading edges of the teeth that mesh together when shifting into gear, but this normally a wear and tear problem doesn't come on suddenly. Are you still having this problem?
Thank you, great tutorial. I see you prefer grease over Loctite 572 on the fastener threads. Many techs recommend the same. Any reason not to use the Loctite product other than it's messy and gums up a little?
I am ok with anything that keeps the threads from seizing whether it is old school grease or any of the forms of Anti Seize on the market, makes no difference to me.
Hey man, thanks for the tutorial!! I was able to change the pump, but I couldn’t get the lower unit to seat to put it back on. It went in okay then it stops with maybe an inch and half gap and would not go in any further. Any idea what could have prevent the lower unit to seat?
If its an F150, roughly inch and a half and its likely the drive shaft splines are out of alignment with the crank shaft splines, which will hold you off. Usually it's just a matter of spinning the drive shaft by hand just a fraction. Look at the width of one of the drive shaft splines and that's about how much rotation you'll need to get them aligned. Sometimes it takes a few times up and down. Sometimes it seats first try. I usually keep a clean shop rag on hand when hanging the gear case and if it fights I drop it down just far enough to get a hand on it and give it a turn then back up. The rag helps a ton if the shaft is greasy. Always spin clockwise. There are some gear cases like on the older F115's that have two sets of splines on the end of the drive shaft, one for the crank and the other set for the oil pump. In this event it may take more manual spinning to get the oil pump splines and crank splines aligned with the drive shaft.
Regadrs from Mexico, only missed how to to re-install the anode flap.
GREAT VID I HAVE A F 150XB WITH LOW HOURS AND A BLINKING ENGINE SYMBOL RUNS FINE . CAN I CLEAR IT THKS
There are a few factors to consider. If the gauges are older style Digital Multifunction, a blinking engine symbol would normally be a fault code. The XB is a newer model, so with these, a blinking engine symbol could be a water in fuel warning, but it would normally be accompanied by a intermittent audible alarm at key on. If the engine symbol is solid, not blinking, it is either a fault code or a maintenance reminder
Thank you for this video. I tried reinstalling the unit and i cant get the gears to work. Either it is swampy in reverse or forward and so etimes it works fine. Any tips?
Robert sorry for the delay getting back to you. Definitely a good idea to check shift alignment at the linkage in the engine lower cowing where the shift cable and midsection linkage are connected by cotter pin. Disconnect the cable and align the marks found on the shift tray and the linkage guide (small plastic puck that has the cable mount on it). They have alignment marks that should match up to each other at neutral.
Once the linkage is set to neutral, spin the prop by hand and verify no gear chatter. Once gear case and linkage are in sync, adjust the cable as needed so that it easily glides onto the shift guide be pinned back on.
Question- putting the lever on neutral, I for got to do that before lowering lower half, did it before installing.
Is it ok, or is it a problem? Thanks
It shouldnt be a problem. If the shift rods are out of alignment, they won't couple at all. So if the controls and midsection shift rod are in gear and the lower is in neutral, it should be impossible to install the lower because the splines would not line up and they would bind before you could ever get the lower casing seated to start turning bolts. On some Yamaha's the mid section shift rod has a good bit of space to move side to side, so it is possible to install some lowers and bolt them into place without the shift rods even being linked together. In this instance, it would be possible to install a lower set to neutral on a mid section that was left in gear. The easiest way to verify correct installation is, after bolting the lower on, shift into forward then reverse and go spin the prop by hand, it should lock into place if in gear, then once back in neutral the prop should spin freely.
Excellent video, used it 3 years ago to help rebuild water pump on my F115 and all went well. Just did the same today but after assembling all and reattaching LU, I have no forward or reverse. Seemed like all was aligned but perhaps not with the shift splines? Will be removing LU tomorrow and try again. Any suggestions? Also, is it necessary to drain the gear oil if just lowering unit a little and trying to realign? Thanks.
Hi Bill, its almost a guarantee that you missed the shift splines on the mid-section shift rod/linkage when you hung the gear case. Usually just have to unbolt and drop the case a couple inches, align the rods and go back up. Sometimes there can be alot of slop in the midsection shift rod, which allows for a complete miss between the two rods. You should not need to touch the gear oil at all.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 That's what I was guessing Hopefully no damage to any splines. I may just drop it out completely to inspect although I'll have to deal with the speedo tube. I am really impressed that you took the time to answer my questions so quickly. I'm sure you're a busy guy. Thanks again, Happy New Year and stay safe out there!
Hi Tyler, thank you so much!! I'm doing twin f150s right now and this is a huge help..it will be done correctly now....can you confirm orientation of damp seal? I want to make sure its right...not sure there were correct in first place...thanks again!!
Hi Eric, Easiest way to confirm orientation for the F150 is that the damper seal bracket and the seat for the bracket in the casing are contoured to each other. The aft part of the bracket for this model has a 90 degree vertical lip as well as all of the angles on the aft section being 90 degrees. The forward side of the bracket has radiused outside corners to match the radiused inside corners in the casing. The damper seal itself, for this model, also has radiused outside corners and will only line up one way to fight right. You may have to wire brush or dremel out the casing if there is heavy corrosion build up in order to see the radii that I'm referring to, but they're there.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thanks Tyler.....much appreciated
Hi Tyler, As removed old water pump housing and inspected upper seal on lower unit all looked ok but the spring washer/clip was broken. You spoke about this being common. Can I replace this part or new seal kit the best move? If so....do you a video regarding that repair? Thanks you again!!!
Usually its pretty easy to remove the old seals from the bearing carrier housing, resurface the walls to remove any scale/build up and install new seals and O-ring. You can definitely replace the entire assembly but usually not necessary. Replacing the entire assembly can be a bit more complicated since the new housing may be slightly out of spec for the existing shims in the drive shaft housing, and need to be re-shimmed during install. Also, you'd likely end up needing to replace the drive shaft roller bearing in the housing as well, and usually this level of expense and time is overkill. I have re-sealed countless bearing carrier assemblies and put them back into service and never had any follow up issues with the repair and some of these housings were really jacked up (at least visually). Pitting in the outer walls on the carrier housing is usually the factor that I look at the most when deciding whether to re-seal or replace. If it's pitted out bad enough, it won't pass a pressure test and will fail given enough time.
Anyone know the part number for the speedometer pick up? I have a 2008 Yamaha 150
63P-45378-00-00 Speedo Pick-up, 93210-07003-00 o-ring
Awesome video man! I have a question I broke my speedometer fitting yesterday when installing the new water pump I lowered the engine into the water of a barrel and when I started the motor I am seeing oil around the drum of water and oil on the foot from the waterline down. Could that broken fitting have caused me to leak oil because it wasn’t doing it before I change the water pump. I don’t use my speedometer rather than put a new one on only to plug it can I just plug it off? Rather than ordering a new plastic fitting ?
The speedometer pick up and connected tubing is isolated/not connected into any aspect of the gear oil or crank case oiling system. If it has been damaged, and there has been an oil leak nearby, its entirely possible that the cracked speedo fitting has allowed some oil to seep in and collect. Speedometer fitting is purely optional as far as whether or not you want to replace it. You may want to cap off the rubber speedometer pick-up tube which was connected to the pick up barb. As for the oil, it is most likely either coming from the crank case or the gear case. Given your description, the most common scenario is that the lower unit is leaking gear oil from the drive shaft seals, shift cover or prop shaft seals. When the drive shaft and shift cover seals start to leak, gear oil will end up everywhere on the top side of the gear case and create a slick when the lower is submerged. Easiest way to tell if the lower is leaking oil is to empty out the gear oil and pressure test. Pressurize the lower to about 8 or 9 PSI and spray soapy water on the seals on the drive shaft, prop shaft and shift cover. If the gear case holds 8 PSI for a few minutes, it's generally not leaking. If it is leaking, the soap bubbles will tell you where. Any seals that are damaged or leaking need to be replaced asap. If the motor has been leaking oil from the crank case it's generally easy to take a look up into the drive shaft housing with a flashlight (with the lower unit off). A leaking crank shaft or oil pump seal will usually leave a residue all the way down the drive shaft housing in the midsection and the drive shaft itself will be oily. Oil will also collect on the forward areas of the cavitation plate. Some models allow you to see the bottom of the oil pump if you inspect near the top of the midsection bottom of the lower cowling. A leaking oil pump will leave plenty of evidence. If the motor is a 2 stroke, it's not unusual for oil to seep out of the fuel system and spread itself around all over the place, and many people notice this seepage near the prop/skeg. This is normal for 2 strokes especially if it has been sitting for a while.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 What an excellent reply! Thank you so much for your time!! It’s a Yamaha F40 2009. We just took apart the VST replaced the fuel pump and sock but we used an aftermarket fuel pump and a aftermarket low pressure fuel pump with totally cleaned out the VST system which was really corroded up bad we also change the filter screens and clean the injectors using a SONIC cleaner which freed them up but was getting inconsistent results we have an outside tank we can pressurize putting fuel directly to the fuel rail and bypassing the fuel system completely purchased new injectors they are also Aftermarket when hooked up directly to the fuel rail The motor revs perfectly hooked to the fuel system it’ll rev one time perfectly and then die out we set our vst float According to the book specifications. i’m a little frustrated and I still don’t know the cause of the oil being in the water it wasn’t there two days ago and the only thing I did was change the impeller and brake off the speedometer nipple. So if I did nothing with the nipple at all other than leave it broke nothing would happen? I’m going to drop the foot again and see if I damaged the crankshaft seal and check the crankshaft for oil. We pressurized the fuel rail to 45 psi with the outside fuel source and it ran fine. A little frustrated because I’ve changed all of the filters all of the pumps cleaned everything out even a new gas line and tank.😔
One thing was different from when I Changed the water pump was when we ran fuel directly to the rail we had pulled the motor ears off and hooked water directly to the powerhead.. it ran for approximately five minutes with no water on the impeller so I pulled down the unit to check it the impeller looked fine but the housing showed a little melting above the cup it appeared that the cup spun inside the housing when I put the new water pump on and housing that’s when I saw oil in the water …I may have burned my shaft seal. I literally change the water pump the day before and there was no oil in the water. I feel like a dumb ass…. your video and the way you go through everything is way better than any other video I have seen I subscribe to your channel and look forward to new videos thank you again for taking the time to respond I will check the pressure using the soap looking for bubbles
Do you have a part number for the speedometer pick-up?
Pickup is 63P-45378-00, O-ring is 93210-07540
Did you put the gear in forward before taking off the lower unit or neutral? I see at the end you had commented on shifting into into forward/neutral/reverse. I would say you had it in neutral when dropping the lower unit. I remember the days with my 1974 85HP Johnson...you had the linkage up inside the engine compartment behind the carbs and would have to unlink that before dropping and linking back up after insertion of lower unit. This seems like an easy peasy job compared to that!! Johnne in Clallam Bay WA
Anything is easier than the older Johnson Evinrudes, that shift rod was a nightmare! With this one, and most Yamaha's I leave it in neutral.
Tyler, I can't thank you enough for making these videos and sharing your expertise and skill. I just bought $100 worth of Yamaha multiple pin test harnesses from Outboard Specialty Tools that I am looking forward to using. I've got an unrelated question; on a previous video you mentioned briefly in passing "decarbonizing" an outboard. I "think" there is a procedure involving using different concentrations of "Yamaha Ring Free" in the fuel and running this mixture through the engine to clean out accumulated carbon deposits on the valves. Where do I find the actual instructions; for example fuel/product ratios, engine preparation, power and duration settings involved in doing this "de-carb procedure"? I have access to Yamaha manuals. Any information you can provide would be greatly appreciated!
_Respectfully
I normally don't use ring-free for this type of work. I normally use Yamaha Internal Engine Cleaner (Y.I.E.C.). This chemical is not licensed for sale to the general public, but there are Yamaha shops that will sell it through their retail desk. Y.I.E.C. comes with a host of environmental and hazmat labels and warnings because it is extremely toxic to every living thing that it touches. De-carbing with this mix is federally prohibited in open water or in settings where the run-off will drain into storm drainage/storm sewers. All of this said, it is the best chemical I have ever worked with for deleting extreme heavy carbon deposits.
It has to be used methodically. Y.I.E.C. is mixed into a shop fuel tank that will be a dedicated de-carb tank. CONFIRM THESE INSTRUCTIONS WITH YAMAHA LITERATURE! Y.I.E.C. can cause catastrophic damage if not used as instructed. I can't remember the exact ratio off the top of my head, but pretty sure it's 1:3 YIEC to fuel. The shop tank is spliced directly into the engine fuel supply at the primary fuel filter intake. Better and faster to drain the VST first, speeds up pulling the mix into the fuel system. Run the motor in a test tank or whatever will allow the motor to run for about 1 hour or so without overheating. Once the mix is into the fuel injection, motor needs to run at around 1500 RPM for 45 to an hour. The ECU does not care for this mix and may run erratically as it tries to adjust injection and timing to deal with non-standard fuel. After running for required time, replace spark plugs and do complete oil and oil filter change.
After this type of de-carb, compression should come back up and leak-down numbers should also improve, assuming that heavy carbon was deposited on valves and rings etc. and causing issues
Also, once the decarb run is more less complete after about 45 min, reconnect the boat fuel supply to the primary and keep the motor running until you have run all of the YIEC chemical out of the fuel system. You do not want Y.I.E.C. sitting around marinating in a motor. You will know when the chemical is out because the smell of the exhaust will change back to normal. Also, don't breathe the exhaust, especially during decarb
what type of grease are you using inside the housing?
Usually either Quicksilver 2-4-C or Evinrude Triple Guard
do you install in neutral?
Hi Doug, yes normally I install in neutral. They can be installed in gear as long as the midsection shift rod and gear case shift rod are in the same position, both in forward or reverse for example, but I find it easier in neutral. There are some other horse power and manufacturers that I will install in gear because the splines are a nightmare to align, so I spin the prop shaft in gear to align during install. The drawback of this method is that one has to verify the direction the prop shaft is spun will produce clockwise spin on the drive shaft or it can cause the impeller blades to flip backwards, which can be problematic
Handy Dandy Crack Torch lol
99