Make sure yall are tagging me on instagram (@parodoxz) once yall get your new keychains so I can thank yall! We've sold a TON so far but still have plenty left so get them before there gone! See you guys in tomorrows video!
ParoDoXz one thing I know for sure about because I asked a Cummins tech idle time is never to exceed ten percent of the drive time. The rule of thumb Is do not allow your cummins to idle more than 10 minutes. Also now in colder climates it’s more imperative that you allow a high idle like 1000 to 1200 rpm to warm up engine but again don’t exceed 10 mins then when you begin to drive because it’s cold if you get a pronounced diesel rattle your pushing it too hard cold and you need to lighten up on the accelerator. Once the engine is at operating temperature this usually stops. This happens in cold climates because the air is so dense the combustion of air fuel mix becomes so violent you get piston slap against cylinder walls. People don’t understand most gas race engines are only 10:1 to 13:1 compression so you have more room to stuff more cold air into gas engine. Where as a cummins is already at a 18:1 compression which super heats the air fuel mix to ignition that’s why there is no need for glow plugs. Unlike duramax and power stroke which essentially are converted high compression gas engines with out spark plugs at 15:1 compression which will not ignite diesel with out glow plugs preheating the fuel. Sorry for novel. Did you know Cummins makes fuel additives? See Cummins filtration web site. Did you also know that Cummins Endorses and sells Power Service diesel fuel supplements in there Cummins dealers for use in there engines? So I recommend you at least use Power Service Diesel Kleen above 30 degrees Fahrenheit and Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement at or below 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Bought mine new and have used those sups since the first fill up. Of course you probably already knew this but if not it’s good solid info.
Young Man; I'm a 60 year old ironworker turned crane operator 20 years ago.I believe we are probably related!! That's the best advice I have heard ANYONE throw out there so far!! I have an 03 that has half a million on it because of the prevent maintenance i do.. Lucas.. I'd probably drink the stuff if I thought it would cure reptile dysfunction. Your right about the pump! And your starting procedure! I just picked up an 07 dually presently going through it. Take time with it i say to people do the right things!! You keep talking to em son! Maybe some will grow a brain and listen?? Who knows!!??
A bit of 2-stroke oil in the tank with each fill-up works well as a lubricant too. Also the best way to warm up a truck is to let it idle for about 30 seconds to get oil flowing and then drive it SOFTLY for a bit. Driving it and putting some load on the engine puts more heat into it faster than idling and doing it easy won't be detrimental to anything. Idling for too long can wash down the cylinder walls with fuel, especially with bigger injectors, and it's just unneccessary.
Glad to see you reached out to my comment haha I just really wanted to see the full effect of them. They look great man way better than the other ones.
I've driven over 4 million miles sitting over/behind diesel engines. Lots of different engine types and manufacturers through the 20 plus years. There are a few "always do & never do" things for those engines. Probably couldn't hurt on the little ones either. ALWAYS: let the engine run for 3-5 minutes before AND after driving. This let's the fluids circulate and warm up, it also along the engine to cool off before shut down. ALWAYS use additives in fuel. For lube, cetane, and conditioning. Will prevent gelling, smoking and bacterial growth!!! I ALWAYS use HOWES!!! NEVER shut it off immediately after arriving at a destination. NEVER buy fuel from a place with a LOW FUEL TURNOVER!!! NEVER get fuel within 15 minutes of the fuel truck leaving. When they add fuel to bulk storage, everything in that tank gets mixed up. You might get water or bacteria or sediment. These will DESTROY injectors!!! As far as idling the engine goes, until 2009 when I got a APU, the only time the truck was shut off was for maintenance. I NEVER shut one down. I just bumped up the RPMs when idling. One reason I never shut down is the PTO doesn't work unless engine is running. Hard as hell to operate hydraulic controls on a car hauler without power. In the 4 million plus miles, on 8 trucks, I never lost an injector. I lost 1 turbo due to a nicked blade when engine was assembled at factory. The only 2 MAJOR PROBLEMS in all those miles was due to manufacturer's mistakes. Back on 92 or 93 the N320 Cummins I had dropped 4 valves that took out 3 pistons. This was due to improper maintenance. I had a TOP END ( like a tune up for gas engine) run and the dealer mechanic messed something up. I made it 10 miles from the dealer when the engine injested the valves. They towed me back to dealer and after some nasty words the dealer installed a NEW engine. The other was due to a dealer for CAT , they had the fuel pressure maxed out. Took the fuel rail and pump. Did a lot of damage when the pump exploded. Sounded like a bomb going off under my seat. That's it. Diesels are great if you KNOW how to treat them. They will take a good amount of abuse. Maintain them RIGHT and your diesel will last for a long time. I know cheap drivers that refused to buy a new truck that have over 1 million miles on engines without problems. The company I leased to had trucks with well over 1 million miles. Can't say about the maintenance, not mine.
I heard you can only rarely add injector additives or any additives. Not every time you fill up. I have a 2011 international 4300 tow truck. What other tips can you give me?
John Pavlenko You can add HOWE'S at EVERY fueling. It WILL NOT harm your engine or fuel system. A good piece of advice, if you don't have one on the fuel system, put a water separator with replaceable filter on your main fuel line BEFORE the fuel hits the pump. WATER and DIESEL DO NOT MIX!!! Use the best fuel available. If you have to get fuel at a questionable spot, add GOOD fuel as soon as possible. Do not try to burn all the bad fuel before filling up. I would add 59 gallons of good fuel as fast as I burned it. You don't know how much damage BAD FUEL can cause. Use good oil. I ALWAYS ran Mobile ONE. It is THE BEST. DRAIN the water from fuel/water separator every few days. Drain, DRAIN air tanks completely at least 1 time a week in summer. In winter drain air system daily!!!! Check tires with a pressure gauge. Do this every day before you start driving. Thumping tires lets you know they are not flat, not that they have the proper tire pressure. This will get you more miles on your tires, they are not cheap. I use CENTRAMATIC Balance system on ALL axles, better tire wear. Any more questions, hit me back up. Good luck.
John Pavlenko A water separator is TOTALLY DIFFERENT from a FUEL FILTER. The separator ONLY REMOVES WATER from the fuel. The fuel filter does not catch most of the water. Water will destroy the fuel pump and the injectors. The water separator systems.are cheap compared to a pump or a.set of injectors.
Just got my first Cummins a few days ago! Decided to do some research and came across this video. Thanks for all the tips (especially the fuel additive). Awesome vid and God Bless.
I own 3 1st gen's now and your tips are golden man! We may have one of the best engine/truck on the planet but that doesn't mean we should neglect them at all. We treat our cummins good, they will treat us even better. Keep up the good work!
I agree with all these points! I’m a new Cummins owner. Got my 08 6.7 a couple months ago. Been using the grey bottle PowerService additive and I always wait for the rings to stop before I start it. I love how you take care of your truck I intend to do the same
I’m buying a 3rd gen, the interior is in rough condition but imma fix it and put in leather seats, rebuild the suspension, then slowly upgrade the engine and it should be a really good truck (2004 2500)
I have a 2012 Cummins. I use the Hot Shot EDT for treatment. It works great for me. Smoothed it out and better throttle response. Try it out if you see it. 1 bottle treats 400 gallons for around $16 in my area.
I got over 400k on my 2gen and I only add fuel additives when I change my fuel filter which is like once a year depending on how much I've driven it sometimes a year and half and I only add it cause I do baby it after it deals with my bs for a year haha
04 2500, cummins, 6sp. 240k miles, no additives...Zero repairs to date. None of my friends or family have had to replace injector pump at less than 300k. True about slight warmup, but diesels will never hit op temp while at idle. Lift pump only cycles for 5sec. Low idle for more than 5min-ish actually Causes damage to diesels.
Extended idle dilutes the engine oil with fuel when temps are under 60F. Big rigs and military trucks and specialized equipment have a special idle mode which will bring engine speed up and will reduce as engine coolant temp reaches a target temp.
I fully agree lol... I have friends who think they have to cram gears, bark tires and break loose every time they pull out.. it's ridiculous lol.. love your videos and glad to see more coming
So fucking true man . Just drive it . Have fun sometimes but don’t beat it and then bitch about it lol I hear guys bitch about “ oh I blew my trans or I have nothing but problems with mine” amd there the same guys who 20 minutes ago redlined each gear and beat the living shit out of it .
For much colder climates, up north. It is ok to let the truck idle for over 15 minutes. If you are up north in Canada, it is ok to let your truck idle in the winter. It actually will be better for your truck. Diesels are working engines. They aren't really made for around town;groceries, shopping, etc. The longer they run and harder they work, the cleaner your engine parts. I did like your video though. I definitely will be checking more out!
I leave my tow mirrors turned out. It makes driving much easier. I can see offramps for exiting cars easier, backing into spots easier, and can see blind spots for lane changes better.
Really!? Mirrors out looks stupid? Nice to know it's all about looks. Forget the fact that some of us have 20 feet of truck behind us or like to see our blind spots. Yeah, forget practicality, gotta have that fly look the kids are into.
I’ve had mine for 8 months. I hoon on it every single day. HOWEVER. I always let it warm up before I leave, even at 85° outside, and let it sit 60 seconds before I shut it off. I do my oil changes every 2500 just to be safe.
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Bought a 2016 3500 6.7 from an auction and had no idea what I was getting into. So far only the transmission “ 68rfe” died. It’s over 145000km with me and going strong. Not not deleted completely. Best thing for your diesel engines is air and good fuel.
I agreed except to the lift pump cycle thing. On a 2nd gen the lift pump only cuts on for about 5 seconds and then cuts off. You have to bump the starter in order for it to cut on for 25 seconds. The lift pump is already primed and ready to go as soon as you turn the key. And wait to start light is only for the glow plugs if you have them or in the cummins world it’s the intake grid heater. If it’s over ~50 degrees or so then you don’t even need it or have to have it. Just saying. Good video tho
Gotta take the time to thank you for taking your time to read every comment most people on youtube don't, and it is nice to find a channel that produces good content and will reply to the viewers
You want to let any vehicle run for a bit before driving gas or diesel very important to let the oil circulate through the engine before putting it under load. Also when you work an engine hard, turbo or not let it run for at lest 5 minutes to cool down, shutting the engine off right away will heat soak the engine it will actually get hotter!
All good points. Another might be to let the truck cool down before shutting it off. Always seeing people get off the highway in their diesels and shutting them off without any time to help cool it down. Glad to see you posting again and glad to hear the family is doing well👍
@Scott Simmons yep. All you need to do is let the turbo get back to idle speed, and cool it down to base engine temp, you dont want it spinning while hot with no oil to it. Everything else will be fine.
Very good points! First things to always check when buying a Cummins truck, especially 4x4....wheel hubs, ball joints, track bar, tie rod ends. Anyone who has experienced a death wobble will totally understand why I say that lol.
@@kevinhawkins6811 Like the worst thing on the planet when you wanna just drive like a normal human down the road. UA-cam some examples in shitty Jeeps and other trucks and whatnot you'll see
Eh, just plan on doing them eventually. They are wear items that are meant to be replaced. Even super clean trucks can have clapped out front end parts. That's across all manufacturers. Ford, Chevy, Dodge, they all wear. Death wobble is no joke though. I have a steering box brace on my 3rd gen. Just part of the game.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but my understanding about injector cleaner, based on a description from my mechanic neighbor was that it makes fuel burn hotter to combust away the soot on the injectors. That doesn’t lubricate anything I don’t think, and it’s probably not something you want in every tank. On my gas engine he recommended I put in the first bottle at 1/4 tank, burn that hot 1/4 tank, then fill up and add another can. He said 44k is the only one that works. Not sure if compatible with diesel.
Mike Farrell I have had GM diesel vehicles since 1978 to present and I run #2 as long as the air temp allows it, during the winter I run a blended diesel fuel of #1 & #2 or just #1 diesel fuel and only 1 time did the fuel jell during the winter
Newbee here. Im 63. Got a 99 5.9. Hving issue with wait to start light. Rebuilt entire front suspension. Ball joints etc totally worn out. New fuel filter housing etc and starter also. Not sure on pump or generation Thinkin lift pump and guages next. Got truck for $0 so gonna go totally thru it. Glad I found your channel. Will be ckin out ur guage install vids etc soon. Thanks for good info youngin. Look forward to cing more. Roll Tide From Grand Bay
Hey man, love the videos and your truck! (I have a 2001). I ended up doing a TON of research on lift pumps and VP44s when I bought mine, because mine had already had the in-tank lift pump conversion done and a new VP44 from Chrysler back at 80k, and I wanted to make sure I didn't have to do that again. The most likely reason for your VP44 dying is that your factory lift pump was actually bad, and probably had been bad for quite a while. When you replaced your lift pump with the aftermarket, you then introduced air into the fuel system. I found many, many cases of VP44s dying within a few hundred to a few thousand miles of replacing lift pumps (and this is exactly what happened to my own as well). When your factory lift pump dies, which they all do because someone's great idea was to connect it straight onto the block, the VP44 has enough suction power that it will continue to pull fuel from the tank and run fine, but all the while you are burning up the VP44 pump because it's working way harder than it is supposed to, and the internal valve for fuel return is closed because it depends upon pressure from the lift pump to push enough fuel to open that valve, which is the internal cooling mechanism for the VP44. I found a couple articles of people who tore them open and agree that the valve opens between 10-14psi. So unless your lift pump is supplying somewhere in the 10-14psi range, your internal cooling of the VP44 isn't working as well as Bosch designed it to be. If you hadn't replaced the lift pump, who knows - it might still be running after all these miles. But of course you don't want to run like that either, replacing the lift pump is totally necessary on these trucks, but unfortunately a week or a month after that is the time when many people also have to replace the VP44. As far as cycling the lift pump - the way you start the truck is fine but when you turn the key the factory ones only cycle for about 2 seconds, so waiting that long is probably overkill. The "wait to start" has nothing to do with fuel pressure, it's just temperature in the intake. When you turn off the truck, you are "vapor locked" with fuel, it doesn't flow backward and your lift pump doesn't actually have to do anything unless you introduce air into the system like when you replace a fuel filter. Then you want the lift pump to re-fill all the lines, by bumping the starter which then cycles the lift pump for a solid 20 seconds, instead of the 2-3 seconds that it does when turning on the key. I ended up going with a mechanical lift pump that runs off my harmonic balancer so I don't rely on electronics at all for sending fuel to the VP44. I left my factory in-tank pump connected as well so that when I replace a filter I can just bump the starter and re-prime, but I have talked to lots of guys with these pumps that totally disconnect the electric pumps and run just the mechanical (so obviously there isn't any lift pump fuel pressure until you are actually cranking the starter) and some of them have been running this way for hundreds of thousands of miles. So it could be argued that a "prime" of the lift pump during every start is not necessary at all :) Your other points about warm ups and cool downs and idling - I totally agree, I baby mine just like you do! For fuel additives - Mopar1973Man has some studies on using 2 cycle oil (ashless) in the tank at a 128:1 ratio (one ounce per gallon of fuel) - there are quite a few folks who swear by that instead of a traditional off-the-shelf additive.
Other than driving and doing basic maintenance Oil, Grease, Brakes etc. I know nothing of the workings of a 24 Valve 5.9......BUT, I know some way cool backwood Country Boys that are aces on all the generations.......And heres what one of them told me about the VP44....."Never run your Cummins below a quarter of a tank, EVER!!" Explained to me how the in tank pick up pump is spinning at ungodly RPM's and is cooled by being submerged in the fuel and if you're below a 1/4 you have gotten it out of the diesel and it will suck air in curves and stress the main rail pump and also the injectors......200,000 miles later, Not a single fuel related issue........And yes, I use Lucas injector cleaner with every fill up...........................
So many good points, and some things I didn't realize, like letting the lift pump cycle when cold, and letting it idle for a few minutes before taking off. What about taking off slowly, as if an egg was under the accelerator? That's what I do anyway when the truck is cold. Another thing not exactly mentioned: make sure that if you start up the truck when cold, (if you have to shut it off for any reason) let it run until it is warmed up before you shut it off. Not only does the battery have to power the starter, but also the heater grid to warm up the engine, and that takes a lot of amps from the battery that need to be replenished before shutting off again. (As well as all the engine parts need to be warmed up as well)
Letting your truck sit and idle at least 2-3 minutes before shutting it down for turbo cool down and also you can use 2cycle oil for fuel lubercant I use bout 4ish oz per tank 311k still doing good and last thing is greasing ball joints Trac bar (cummins only) tie rods universals ECT... most people I talk to don't and dirt gets into the joints and is like sand paper to your ball joints good vid keep them comming
First thing I did on my 94 12v was I replaced the charge pipe elbows as they had rub spots on them from the fender well. Then an aftermarket intake elbow. Then I put a B.H.A.F & got rid of the factory air box. All of this was in an effort to keep egts down for towing. Next step is to get a pyrometer to monitor egts better, a boost gauge, & an oil temp gauge or fuel pressure gauge.
My 01 ram 3500 has the original main fuel pump. Engine never touched except for normal wear and tear. But no tuners couple of lift pumps replaced but that's it. Still starts like the day I bought brand new. 400, 000 miles now. Lol. Use power service in the summer and winter every time I put fuel in. Had not failed on starting not one time. Starts with a quickness. No turn over time what so ever.
Yea I’m buying a 2500 with most of this stuff already done. I know nothing about Cummins. This was the perfect video for me. I will be taking extra good care of my truck
Having owned these trucks for 16 years I can add some stuff here,I factory ordered a 2002 6sp sport same color as yours and bought a 1998.5 12 valve used in 2003- additives or no additives the VP44 is gona go out , they are JUNK, most time the circuit board goes and has nothing to do with the fuel or whats in it or not in it .- When it goes find a P7100 and P Pump it . for approx. the same price if ya find a pump cheap enough , its a no brainer.-Always let you EGT temp come down to 300* before shuting down- never idle a cold engine for more than a minite or two unless its a high idle , as the unburnt fuel will washdown the cyl walls and even in bad cases leak down into your crankcase diluting your oil. The sooner ya get it movin and putting a load on engine and building heat in the cyl's the better .These engines do not build heat at a low idle in cold temps , infact they will cool themselves off if left idling from being at full temp._in a factory set up your lift pump does not cycle before starter is engaged , it is best to start as soon as light goes out and grid heaters go off , if not the time waited you are wasting the heat the grid heater just produced and there will be more unburnt fuel and rougher start.unless of course ya live in warm climate than the parameters are not met for heaters to come on and grid heaters don't even function in that case ya can just turn the key like a gas engine and no waiting for anything.not sure about the laws where yas are but if ya got caught with that much tire outside the fenders and front side windows tinted you would go to jail right on the spot .nice truck and you remind me a lot of myself when I was 25 and ordered that truck, I was right into it doin all the little mods , I still take care of it today mind you not as anal as I was back then, got 70K KM (43K miles)on her and only saw rain about 8 times in the last 16 years , looks like the day I got her .Think my lift pump is goin and I had a fuel gauge on it since day 1 , replaced 2 lift pumps in that time when I saw them starting to get weak ,. gettn the odd dead peddle now , P Pump here I come I guess , just goes to show I watched my pressures changed fuel filters more than regularly and still only gettn 40K miles out of the POS VP44. The engineer should be beat with a stickI thought we were suppose to evolve in life , going from a P7100 to a VP44 is going backwards , engineers suck !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
www.finditparts.com/products/7541246/autobest-12d?srcid=CHL01SCL010-Npla-Dmdt-Gusa-Svbr-Mmuu-K7541246-L406&gclid=CjwKCAjwp7baBRBIEiwAPtjwxLjlkXD9aElZmhDqcZgcR3sibN4Ly-eWScPQZ93FTeGaxmWEv_qXSxoCxrAQAvD_BwE This is the pump that I use it is mounted at the front corner of the bed
I was looking at a clean ram 2500 but with all this information sounds a bit intimidating I kinda wanna buy a good running truck n drive is it a must I do all these things to keep a good 2500 running
Just got my first Cummins and watching vids to get trained up lol. 1999 Ram 2500 4x4. Traveling with fam now will check it out once we get back. Excited
👍 on the let any turbo warm up for that lubrication!! Learned that from my Dad 40 years ago who use to rebuild Porsche turbos. I had F350’s for 30 years. Never had a problem with any of them including 6.0 and 6.4’s! Took care of them and pulled 10 to 20,000 lbs everyday. Just bought my first Cummins, 2019 Ram 2500. Heard nightmare stories already so I’ll be watching you and a couple other Cummins guys for tips. In a couple months I’ll be towing 16,000 lbs everyday cross country so I wanna make sure she’s ready. Just did first oil change (6200 mi) and went with my fave Rotella T6 15W40. Keep up great vids and thanks for taking the time to teach us. 👍✌️
I get my diesel from Kroger. I use a Fram oil filter and the stock dodge 10 micron fuel filter. The truck warms up faster when you get on it on a cold morning and it cools down quicker shutting it off instantly after towing.
Just bought a 07.5 3rd gen earlier this week with the 5.9L and quad cab. Only downside is the 48re. And needless to say...glad I watched this! Definitely gonna give it some cool down time every run. I do run good quality oil in it (shell Rotella). I do run that Lucas Injector cleaner once in awhile on all my vehicles diesel or not but I definitely noticed a difference on the first bottle since I owned it. 192k miles. Bone stock
Thw newer diesels have remote start that doesn’t wait to start and start your engine first then put on your seatbelt that gives the oil time to get circulated good As far as warming up before driving. It takes forever to warm up an idling diesel drive it but go easy the first few miles additives are a must! And if you think cummins are indestructible watch the Greg A channel his is broke more than fixed Well except the tow rig anyways You have to PAY to play
Anonymoose Mustang Any huge power diesel is bound to blow up eventually, I believe it was a triple turbo set up... a engine block/head can only hold so much pressure. Diesels in general are already a high pressure engine
If you run a stock list pump or Fass DRS pump they only kick on for 5 seconds. Also don't put additives in the fuel unless you need it. ULSD fuel has plenty of lubricating qualities. Never seen ULSD cause damage to an engine and I've made my living working on HD Diesel engines for 14 years
Atta boy!!! I'm a ram owner... and I think it looks totally stupid with guys driving around with their tow mirrors out when not towing. Not to mention I've seen guys smack their mirrors on other truck mirrors because of it. How cool is replacing a $1000 mirror every time that happens!?!? HAHA
You don't need additives in newer trucks. Who ever told you this is misinformed or lying to you. There's people who have over 250k on stock engines/turbo/CP3/injectors and do not use any additives, just scheduled maintenance. Maybe a link to peer-reviewed research that has definitively shown additives to be necessary would help us out.
Monster RAM some sort of lubricating additivs is even more crutial in newer commonrail trucks, 20 plus k psi you NEED lubricity in the fuel and insuring you have that by using additives cant hurt
connor wilson Pretty sure GM, Ford, and Cummins engineers took lubricity into account when they make their diesels. LB7 through the L5P are made to run on ULSD. Throwing additives in it is pointless.
Cummins recommends using a additive, and Power Services Diesel Kleen cetane boost and a superslick lubricant can't hurt. And a cetane booster is always a good thing as pump fuel is between 40-45. If you've made such a large investment in owning a diesel, a few more dollars to improve your fuel and protect your fuel system and getting more power with a few number boost in the cetane will also add power and mileage.
Another critical thing people do with a diesel they don’t give them adequate warm-up time even in warm weather I start my old 91.5 up and I even in the summertime I give it a couple minutes to idle and where I live I go down a slight grade so I’m not putting any heavy load on the engine for at least 3/4 of a mile anyway I use Amsoil fuel treatment it’s done a real good job for me what I like about it I just get on the phone and it gets mailed right to my house so anyways keep up the good work what you’re doing there dude you’re all right it’s a six and a row Jim from Kennerdell PA
I've always hated starting a vehicle and just sitting in it for more than a minute. One thing I love about my 2020 Ram 2500 is the remote start. I open the app on my phone and send the engine start signal about 10 minutes before leaving work, and get the engine idling and warming up for plenty of time before I jump in. I am not planning on doing any performance mods - turbo, injectors, etc. But I'm still planning on doing a lift pump and head studs. I just want this thing to last.
When it come to Dodge/Ram tow mirrors,..only the duallys are allowed to keep the mirrors out all the time. The single rear wheels trucks are only allowed if towing an enclosed trailer that is 102” wide.
I leave my mirrors out but I usually pull a trailer or camper...and I hate adjusting my mirrors all the time...I do not flip them down because then i have to keep adjusting my mirrors
Sparky101-- Same here. I wonder about some of these boys nowadays. It must be their soy intake. I'd bet they carry tampons in their trucks the way they act and talk.
Up here in northern Maine it is common for the temperature at night to drop to 25f to 30f degrees below zero regularly from November through February, and let my truck idle 24/7 because of the temperatures in day stays below freezing. Never had a problem, but I use amsoil products religiously, and oil and complete filters changed every 5000 miles......
Only thing I have done brand new 05 3500 4 door long bed dullay 4x4 is a lift pump from Fleece intank pump and onboard air for bags and to air up tires and trusse hitch becaus I haul a 10.6 Bigfoot truck camper and to pull my jet boat and to extend my hitch so my boat will hook up with plenty of room to turn .
Had a 01 3500 dually 5.9. Had a blast with the short time I had it. Previous owner molested it and didn’t shim the rear diff. So traded it in for a untouched stock 6.7 mega cab. Leaving it as is for a bit to collect all the parts to egr and dog delete. Love the truck though!
Diesel actually has additives already. You dont really need to add additives every time you pump. Actually went through in entire class in my tech school about this. Some of those additives are gimicks theres better ways to clean up carbon build up.
I'd personally only use it every oil change to clean out any excess carbon build up in the cylinder chamber or valves. Also very good valid points on keep up with mainance mine needs alot of it lol
I think some additives are gimmicks, not all. And even then there’s still not enough lubrication in today’s diesel fuel. Biggest thing is when they went to ultra low soulful diesel fuel.
FirstGenCummins its unnecessary tho as long as your filter is clean and your not in severe cold climate weather tht creates wax in diesel your fine unless you like spending extra money lol.
I don't like the look of mine out but they suck for viewing area when they are down. I still run with them down. I buy the Lucus by the gallon and refill the little bottles. It works out to under $2 a bottle that way.
I personally hate the look of them folded out into the tow position, but the view in the folded-in mirror on the passenger side sucks in my opinion. I wish they'd design a mirror that could slide in and out in the current tow position.
Does it even matter how the mirrors did you pay for the truck na. Or are you gonna tell someone on the road to fold there mirrors in it looks retarded probably not more likely
I’ll admit when I do drive mine in the winter I do let it idle 15 minutes or so (98 12v) it isn’t very happy after a 12hr shift in the frozen hole that is Michigan. Usually walk out about 10min before I punch out and crank it up
@@carlosvega2449 If thats your thinking why are you watching the video? It's about people customizing their cummins, none of this is necessary dip shit
I've been using Hydrotex Essentia lube that I buy and it works quite well. I try to use some every third fill up. Cleans out the injectors pretty well. I also stay up on changing the filter and water separator early before the truck tells me around 25% or so.
Good video, definitely going to subscribe. As for the mirrors I’m sure you get it but in my opinion it’s to each their own. Personally I have had two powerstrokes and having the mirrors folded in on my 4th gen is not what I’m used to. I like the small mirror on the bottom for merging and backing up. Solid video 👍🏼
As for aditives......have lots of friends with cummins........and i had one 5yrs. Additives help but also dont be afraid to change your fuel filters! Todays fuel is garbage! Cummins fuel systems will treat you good if you treat them good.....i learned that from a lifer cummins owner......he changed his fuel filter once a month useing it heavy haul on a farm with no issues. Skipped a few weeks and he is messing up injectors and or pump.
No truck is perfect, transmissions just happen to be a weak point for Dodges and half-ton Chevies. Replace it with a quality rebuilt trans with an external filter and a bigger cooler and you should be fine.
UnsulliedSpy thats why I laugh when people are glued to one brand of truck and trash the other brands when there own truck has the same or more problems
I'd love to see you make a bunch of the different videos on Cummins ownership and buying process, dos and don'ts, all the good stuff that not everyone talks about. Like the not starting and shutting diesels off is something I never really knew. (I'm looking to get a 3rd gen for my first diesel truck next summer, been saving up)
Letting the oil warm up in a diesel engine before putting it under a load is a necessity and can't be stressed enough. It gets damn cold here, I let mine warm up for 20 minutes or more. When it's 20 below or colder, I have let mine run an hour before leaving work (I work in a contaminated facility so it's a timing thing. Hour warm up or I sit around after work after completing a 13 hour shift). I have coworkers that start their diesels after the shift and in less than ten minutes, they're racing out of the parking lot. I would like to add, avoid using Powerservice 911 or Howes. They make the fuel even drier. Your diesel mechanic can direct you to something better like Stanadyne or Alliant Power. Both of those you can't really over mix and they do prevent gelling.
Dude some great points and some unneeded. I just use some 2 stroke oil in the tank for extra lube. Spending $ on other trendy additives is only enriching the sellers. Turbo cool down is fine if you’ve been working it hard but not needed for normal driving or trips to Walmart to buy more costly additives. Seems when it come to diesel owners these days they got more $$ than sense and throw thousands at their new trendy toy so they can out perform the other shiny truck owner. Some of us use our trucks for what they were designed for ....work and towing and not Pavement queens that think smoke is cool 😎 and out spending the other shiny truck owner on high dollar performance goodies. You do make a great point on the tow mirror fetish that some think is cool But make the non towing truck look ... well plain ugly. My 02 sport works for a living. My ZR6 is for Adrenalin rushes. ✌️
I use Schaeffer diesel treatment. Better than Lucas. I've done lots of things to my 2014 Ram that have increased horsepower and mileage. 1. Use Schaeffer diesel treatment, better for your engine than Lucas. 2. Installed K&N air filter. 3. (This is the big improvement) deleted the DEF system. (Before deleting it, my truck was in the shop being repaired every other month, since deletion, hasn't been in the shop at all)
I'm on 523,322 with my 97 12v. To many mods to list. I do rod on mine occasionally...lol but I'm not on the floor guy. I live and drive by my gauges. I use hotshots for additive coming from power service which I've used for years. And yes i see people cold start diesels and drive off.... I'm like where the hell is the heat at in the cylinders??? Oil sludged up... Shit is crazy. Plus i do a turbo cool down for coking on the bearings.
I do need help with my air fuel ratio though..... I've done everything i know... Egts still fucking high. Finally broke down got the attitude adjuster. I turn it down to the point where it wants to die egts still 1200+.... I'd be willing to personally talk to anyone willing to help. I've been on the forums and I'm literally just throwing money at products that don't help at all!
Thanks for the tips ! Fuel additive will be added every tank from now on. I plan to keep my 99 Dodge 2500 4x4 SLT quad cab forever -ish. Currently I have 175K miles on it. Already replaced the VP44 and lift pump. OUCH. The pain was lessened since I bought it in 2006 for $11k By the time I had the VP44 and lift pump repaired I was out a whopping $13,500. I'm asked if I want to sell it all the time. The mechanic installed an idiot light for the lift pump. I've had it 12 yrs. Its a second vehicle used to pull my horse trailer. Preventative maintenance and repairs is a WHOLE lot cheaper than monthly payments on a newer truck. And, it is less complicated to work on.
With the vp44 just keep an eye on fuel pressure that's the death to them things I highly recommend aftermarket lift pump such as airdog and fass like he has the factory ones don't produce enough psi of fuel to the vp44 you don't have to add fuel additives unless you notice like a sticky injector then it wouldn't hurt but do not put anything in that is for diesel and gasoline they put alcohol in them and that will kill your truck hotshot secret or just a couple drops of atf+4 don't put alot just a very little amount which will clean your injectors you put to much you'll blow it up. Also if you do get a aftermarket lift pump I highly recommend hotwiring it to a switch that's hooked to the battery cause when you flick the switch you get instant fuel pressure and you know it's running so you don't have to worry if the wiring to the pump is bad in the 99s wiring is terrible thing on them
Make sure yall are tagging me on instagram (@parodoxz) once yall get your new keychains so I can thank yall! We've sold a TON so far but still have plenty left so get them before there gone! See you guys in tomorrows video!
Like to talk to you about the truck if you serious about selling it give me a text or call 3378496879
ParoDoXz one thing I know for sure about because I asked a Cummins tech idle time is never to exceed ten percent of the drive time. The rule of thumb Is do not allow your cummins to idle more than 10 minutes. Also now in colder climates it’s more imperative that you allow a high idle like 1000 to 1200 rpm to warm up engine but again don’t exceed 10 mins then when you begin to drive because it’s cold if you get a pronounced diesel rattle your pushing it too hard cold and you need to lighten up on the accelerator. Once the engine is at operating temperature this usually stops. This happens in cold climates because the air is so dense the combustion of air fuel mix becomes so violent you get piston slap against cylinder walls. People don’t understand most gas race engines are only 10:1 to 13:1 compression so you have more room to stuff more cold air into gas engine. Where as a cummins is already at a 18:1 compression which super heats the air fuel mix to ignition that’s why there is no need for glow plugs. Unlike duramax and power stroke which essentially are converted high compression gas engines with out spark plugs at 15:1 compression which will not ignite diesel with out glow plugs preheating the fuel. Sorry for novel. Did you know Cummins makes fuel additives? See Cummins filtration web site. Did you also know that Cummins Endorses and sells Power Service diesel fuel supplements in there Cummins dealers for use in there engines? So I recommend you at least use Power Service Diesel Kleen above 30 degrees Fahrenheit and Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement at or below 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Bought mine new and have used those sups since the first fill up. Of course you probably already knew this but if not it’s good solid info.
Young Man; I'm a 60 year old ironworker turned crane operator 20 years ago.I believe we are probably related!! That's the best advice I have heard ANYONE throw out there so far!! I have an 03 that has half a million on it because of the prevent maintenance i do.. Lucas.. I'd probably drink the stuff if I thought it would cure reptile dysfunction. Your right about the pump! And your starting procedure! I just picked up an 07 dually presently going through it. Take time with it i say to people do the right things!! You keep talking to em son! Maybe some will grow a brain and listen?? Who knows!!??
When of the first things you do when you get a 12 valve is check if the killer dowel pin is tabed
@Alex Fracyon no
A bit of 2-stroke oil in the tank with each fill-up works well as a lubricant too. Also the best way to warm up a truck is to let it idle for about 30 seconds to get oil flowing and then drive it SOFTLY for a bit. Driving it and putting some load on the engine puts more heat into it faster than idling and doing it easy won't be detrimental to anything. Idling for too long can wash down the cylinder walls with fuel, especially with bigger injectors, and it's just unneccessary.
TC-W3 outboard 2 stroke oil supertech from Wally World👌🏼
I couldn't agree more. Been doing half a qt per tank for years now.
Perfect stuff...
Careful who you say that to, twostroke oil can fuck up common rail systems and heating up a engine quickly is not god
Glad I’m not the only one
Glad to see you reached out to my comment haha I just really wanted to see the full effect of them. They look great man way better than the other ones.
I've driven over 4 million miles sitting over/behind diesel engines. Lots of different engine types and manufacturers through the 20 plus years. There are a few "always do & never do" things for those engines. Probably couldn't hurt on the little ones either.
ALWAYS: let the engine run for 3-5 minutes before AND after driving. This let's the fluids circulate and warm up, it also along the engine to cool off before shut down.
ALWAYS use additives in fuel. For lube, cetane, and conditioning. Will prevent gelling, smoking and bacterial growth!!! I ALWAYS use HOWES!!!
NEVER shut it off immediately after arriving at a destination.
NEVER buy fuel from a place with a LOW FUEL TURNOVER!!!
NEVER get fuel within 15 minutes of the fuel truck leaving. When they add fuel to bulk storage, everything in that tank gets mixed up. You might get water or bacteria or sediment. These will DESTROY injectors!!!
As far as idling the engine goes, until 2009 when I got a APU, the only time the truck was shut off was for maintenance. I NEVER shut one down. I just bumped up the RPMs when idling. One reason I never shut down is the PTO doesn't work unless engine is running. Hard as hell to operate hydraulic controls on a car hauler without power.
In the 4 million plus miles, on 8 trucks, I never lost an injector. I lost 1 turbo due to a nicked blade when engine was assembled at factory. The only 2 MAJOR PROBLEMS in all those miles was due to manufacturer's mistakes. Back on 92 or 93 the N320 Cummins I had dropped 4 valves that took out 3 pistons. This was due to improper maintenance. I had a TOP END ( like a tune up for gas engine) run and the dealer mechanic messed something up. I made it 10 miles from the dealer when the engine injested the valves. They towed me back to dealer and after some nasty words the dealer installed a NEW engine. The other was due to a dealer for CAT , they had the fuel pressure maxed out. Took the fuel rail and pump. Did a lot of damage when the pump exploded. Sounded like a bomb going off under my seat.
That's it.
Diesels are great if you KNOW how to treat them. They will take a good amount of abuse. Maintain them RIGHT and your diesel will last for a long time.
I know cheap drivers that refused to buy a new truck that have over 1 million miles on engines without problems. The company I leased to had trucks with well over 1 million miles. Can't say about the maintenance, not mine.
I heard you can only rarely add injector additives or any additives. Not every time you fill up. I have a 2011 international 4300 tow truck. What other tips can you give me?
John Pavlenko
You can add HOWE'S at EVERY fueling. It WILL NOT harm your engine or fuel system. A good piece of advice, if you don't have one on the fuel system, put a water separator with replaceable filter on your main fuel line BEFORE the fuel hits the pump. WATER and DIESEL DO NOT MIX!!! Use the best fuel available. If you have to get fuel at a questionable spot, add GOOD fuel as soon as possible. Do not try to burn all the bad fuel before filling up. I would add 59 gallons of good fuel as fast as I burned it. You don't know how much damage BAD FUEL can cause.
Use good oil. I ALWAYS ran Mobile ONE. It is THE BEST. DRAIN the water from fuel/water separator every few days. Drain, DRAIN air tanks completely at least 1 time a week in summer. In winter drain air system daily!!!! Check tires with a pressure gauge. Do this every day before you start driving. Thumping tires lets you know they are not flat, not that they have the proper tire pressure. This will get you more miles on your tires, they are not cheap. I use CENTRAMATIC Balance system on ALL axles, better tire wear.
Any more questions, hit me back up.
Good luck.
@@mean45acp the fuel water seperator. Tell me more about that. I've never heard about that
I have a regular fuel filter... i replace it with every oil change. I wasn't aware of the water seperator
John Pavlenko
A water separator is TOTALLY DIFFERENT from a FUEL FILTER. The separator ONLY REMOVES WATER from the fuel. The fuel filter does not catch most of the water. Water will destroy the fuel pump and the injectors. The water separator systems.are cheap compared to a pump or a.set of injectors.
Just got my first Cummins a few days ago! Decided to do some research and came across this video. Thanks for all the tips (especially the fuel additive). Awesome vid and God Bless.
I own 3 1st gen's now and your tips are golden man! We may have one of the best engine/truck on the planet but that doesn't mean we should neglect them at all. We treat our cummins good, they will treat us even better. Keep up the good work!
1st gen's what? Which possession of a gen were you trying to refer to?
I agree with all these points! I’m a new Cummins owner. Got my 08 6.7 a couple months ago. Been using the grey bottle PowerService additive and I always wait for the rings to stop before I start it. I love how you take care of your truck I intend to do the same
I’m buying a 3rd gen, the interior is in rough condition but imma fix it and put in leather seats, rebuild the suspension, then slowly upgrade the engine and it should be a really good truck (2004 2500)
Probably the most well cared for second gen I’ve ever seen. I hate when I see people buy these, and do everything ass backwards.
Or as some say bass akwards
I have a 2012 Cummins. I use the Hot Shot EDT for treatment. It works great for me. Smoothed it out and better throttle response. Try it out if you see it. 1 bottle treats 400 gallons for around $16 in my area.
I call BS on fuel additives. Bought my 2017 ram dually brand new, never have I ever used a fuel additive. Over 200,000 miles and still pulling strong!
Same here!
Yea the fuel additives is really not needed you just gotta know where to get your fuel and the only time you really need them is in the winter
That’s a lot of miles for a 2017!
I got over 400k on my 2gen and I only add fuel additives when I change my fuel filter which is like once a year depending on how much I've driven it sometimes a year and half and I only add it cause I do baby it after it deals with my bs for a year haha
Newer diesel are not like the older ones like 12v and 24v so these tips are from old school motors
04 2500, cummins, 6sp. 240k miles, no additives...Zero repairs to date.
None of my friends or family have had to replace injector pump at less than 300k.
True about slight warmup, but diesels will never hit op temp while at idle.
Lift pump only cycles for 5sec.
Low idle for more than 5min-ish actually Causes damage to diesels.
No repairs? You're not talking about basic maintenance like fluid changes and spark plugs and stuff like that right?
Colten Gordon I had to replace all 8 spark plugs on my cummins at around 150K.
Idling doesn’t cause damage, trucks idle for weeks at a time and have over a million miles
Extended idle dilutes the engine oil with fuel when temps are under 60F.
Big rigs and military trucks and specialized equipment have a special idle mode which will bring engine speed up and will reduce as engine coolant temp reaches a target temp.
Colten Gordon ever done spark plugs on a Cummins? It’s so hard to find them!🤔
I fully agree lol... I have friends who think they have to cram gears, bark tires and break loose every time they pull out.. it's ridiculous lol.. love your videos and glad to see more coming
I tried googling, but im unsure what you mean by "cramming gears"
So fucking true man . Just drive it . Have fun sometimes but don’t beat it and then bitch about it lol I hear guys bitch about “ oh I blew my trans or I have nothing but problems with mine” amd there the same guys who 20 minutes ago redlined each gear and beat the living shit out of it .
@@jason86768 not shifting properly
''''''' THE PEOPLE THAT DO THAT STUFF WILL ''NOT'' OWN THERE TRUCK ''''LONG TERM'''''''''''' SAD ''''.
For much colder climates, up north. It is ok to let the truck idle for over 15 minutes. If you are up north in Canada, it is ok to let your truck idle in the winter. It actually will be better for your truck. Diesels are working engines. They aren't really made for around town;groceries, shopping, etc. The longer they run and harder they work, the cleaner your engine parts. I did like your video though. I definitely will be checking more out!
I leave my tow mirrors turned out. It makes driving much easier. I can see offramps for exiting cars easier, backing into spots easier, and can see blind spots for lane changes better.
Please stop
@@amonGustavo07 😂😂😂
Really!? Mirrors out looks stupid? Nice to know it's all about looks. Forget the fact that some of us have 20 feet of truck behind us or like to see our blind spots. Yeah, forget practicality, gotta have that fly look the kids are into.
@@amonGustavo07 With love, if its not your truck then shut the fuck up lol
And it's nice in parking lots people don't park as close
I’ve had mine for 8 months. I hoon on it every single day. HOWEVER. I always let it warm up before I leave, even at 85° outside, and let it sit 60 seconds before I shut it off. I do my oil changes every 2500 just to be safe.
Sure it's been said before but the #1 thing that wears your engine out is starting it. Try to avoid this at all costs to make your engine last longer!
lol
Despite millions and millions
Of dollars of governmental
Research. DEATH continues
To be the nation's #1 killer.
In fact it claims all whom
It victimizes
Bought a 2016 3500 6.7 from an auction and had no idea what I was getting into.
So far only the transmission “ 68rfe” died. It’s over 145000km with me and going strong.
Not not deleted completely. Best thing for your diesel engines is air and good fuel.
I agreed except to the lift pump cycle thing. On a 2nd gen the lift pump only cuts on for about 5 seconds and then cuts off. You have to bump the starter in order for it to cut on for 25 seconds. The lift pump is already primed and ready to go as soon as you turn the key. And wait to start light is only for the glow plugs if you have them or in the cummins world it’s the intake grid heater. If it’s over ~50 degrees or so then you don’t even need it or have to have it. Just saying. Good video tho
blackmagic240sx thank you for saying this.
Gotta take the time to thank you for taking your time to read every comment most people on youtube don't, and it is nice to find a channel that produces good content and will reply to the viewers
You want to let any vehicle run for a bit before driving gas or diesel very important to let the oil circulate through the engine before putting it under load. Also when you work an engine hard, turbo or not let it run for at lest 5 minutes to cool down, shutting the engine off right away will heat soak the engine it will actually get hotter!
Five minutes is long. You don't even need to wait that long with tractors
All good points. Another might be to let the truck cool down before shutting it off. Always seeing people get off the highway in their diesels and shutting them off without any time to help cool it down. Glad to see you posting again and glad to hear the family is doing well👍
Tyler Lunn Very True! Thanks man!
Tyler Lunn my buddies leave there's running always.
@Scott Simmons yep. All you need to do is let the turbo get back to idle speed, and cool it down to base engine temp, you dont want it spinning while hot with no oil to it. Everything else will be fine.
Yes if your egt is high
Very good points! First things to always check when buying a Cummins truck, especially 4x4....wheel hubs, ball joints, track bar, tie rod ends. Anyone who has experienced a death wobble will totally understand why I say that lol.
What's a death wobble
@@kevinhawkins6811 Like the worst thing on the planet when you wanna just drive like a normal human down the road. UA-cam some examples in shitty Jeeps and other trucks and whatnot you'll see
Eh, just plan on doing them eventually. They are wear items that are meant to be replaced.
Even super clean trucks can have clapped out front end parts. That's across all manufacturers. Ford, Chevy, Dodge, they all wear.
Death wobble is no joke though. I have a steering box brace on my 3rd gen. Just part of the game.
@@kevinhawkins6811 something compared to an 8 magnitude earthquake
Thanks for the tips I’m really wanting a Cummins and didn’t really know much about all your points you made really helps out
03-05 common rail manual transmission is unbeatable
Marvel Mystery oil works great as a fuel additive.
Correct me if I’m wrong, but my understanding about injector cleaner, based on a description from my mechanic neighbor was that it makes fuel burn hotter to combust away the soot on the injectors. That doesn’t lubricate anything I don’t think, and it’s probably not something you want in every tank. On my gas engine he recommended I put in the first bottle at 1/4 tank, burn that hot 1/4 tank, then fill up and add another can. He said 44k is the only one that works. Not sure if compatible with diesel.
I've had a diesel for 5 years and have never run anything but straight #2 diesel. 0 problems. 225k miles on stock injectors and cp3
Mike Farrell I have had GM diesel vehicles since 1978 to present and I run #2 as long as the air temp allows it, during the winter I run a blended diesel fuel of #1 & #2 or just #1 diesel fuel and only 1 time did the fuel jell during the winter
Wouldn't work 4 long in south Dakota
Newbee here. Im 63. Got a 99 5.9. Hving issue with wait to start light. Rebuilt entire front suspension. Ball joints etc totally worn out. New fuel filter housing etc and starter also.
Not sure on pump or generation
Thinkin lift pump and guages next. Got truck for $0 so gonna go totally thru it. Glad I found your channel. Will be ckin out ur guage install vids etc soon.
Thanks for good info youngin.
Look forward to cing more.
Roll Tide
From Grand Bay
Hey man, love the videos and your truck! (I have a 2001). I ended up doing a TON of research on lift pumps and VP44s when I bought mine, because mine had already had the in-tank lift pump conversion done and a new VP44 from Chrysler back at 80k, and I wanted to make sure I didn't have to do that again. The most likely reason for your VP44 dying is that your factory lift pump was actually bad, and probably had been bad for quite a while. When you replaced your lift pump with the aftermarket, you then introduced air into the fuel system. I found many, many cases of VP44s dying within a few hundred to a few thousand miles of replacing lift pumps (and this is exactly what happened to my own as well). When your factory lift pump dies, which they all do because someone's great idea was to connect it straight onto the block, the VP44 has enough suction power that it will continue to pull fuel from the tank and run fine, but all the while you are burning up the VP44 pump because it's working way harder than it is supposed to, and the internal valve for fuel return is closed because it depends upon pressure from the lift pump to push enough fuel to open that valve, which is the internal cooling mechanism for the VP44. I found a couple articles of people who tore them open and agree that the valve opens between 10-14psi. So unless your lift pump is supplying somewhere in the 10-14psi range, your internal cooling of the VP44 isn't working as well as Bosch designed it to be. If you hadn't replaced the lift pump, who knows - it might still be running after all these miles. But of course you don't want to run like that either, replacing the lift pump is totally necessary on these trucks, but unfortunately a week or a month after that is the time when many people also have to replace the VP44. As far as cycling the lift pump - the way you start the truck is fine but when you turn the key the factory ones only cycle for about 2 seconds, so waiting that long is probably overkill. The "wait to start" has nothing to do with fuel pressure, it's just temperature in the intake. When you turn off the truck, you are "vapor locked" with fuel, it doesn't flow backward and your lift pump doesn't actually have to do anything unless you introduce air into the system like when you replace a fuel filter. Then you want the lift pump to re-fill all the lines, by bumping the starter which then cycles the lift pump for a solid 20 seconds, instead of the 2-3 seconds that it does when turning on the key. I ended up going with a mechanical lift pump that runs off my harmonic balancer so I don't rely on electronics at all for sending fuel to the VP44. I left my factory in-tank pump connected as well so that when I replace a filter I can just bump the starter and re-prime, but I have talked to lots of guys with these pumps that totally disconnect the electric pumps and run just the mechanical (so obviously there isn't any lift pump fuel pressure until you are actually cranking the starter) and some of them have been running this way for hundreds of thousands of miles. So it could be argued that a "prime" of the lift pump during every start is not necessary at all :) Your other points about warm ups and cool downs and idling - I totally agree, I baby mine just like you do! For fuel additives - Mopar1973Man has some studies on using 2 cycle oil (ashless) in the tank at a 128:1 ratio (one ounce per gallon of fuel) - there are quite a few folks who swear by that instead of a traditional off-the-shelf additive.
Other than driving and doing basic maintenance Oil, Grease, Brakes etc. I know nothing of the workings of a 24 Valve 5.9......BUT, I know some way cool backwood Country Boys that are aces on all the generations.......And heres what one of them told me about the VP44....."Never run your Cummins below a quarter of a tank, EVER!!" Explained to me how the in tank pick up pump is spinning at ungodly RPM's and is cooled by being submerged in the fuel and if you're below a 1/4 you have gotten it out of the diesel and it will suck air in curves and stress the main rail pump and also the injectors......200,000 miles later, Not a single fuel related issue........And yes, I use Lucas injector cleaner with every fill up...........................
So many good points, and some things I didn't realize, like letting the lift pump cycle when cold, and letting it idle for a few minutes before taking off. What about taking off slowly, as if an egg was under the accelerator? That's what I do anyway when the truck is cold. Another thing not exactly mentioned: make sure that if you start up the truck when cold, (if you have to shut it off for any reason) let it run until it is warmed up before you shut it off. Not only does the battery have to power the starter, but also the heater grid to warm up the engine, and that takes a lot of amps from the battery that need to be replenished before shutting off again. (As well as all the engine parts need to be warmed up as well)
If you have a 24 valve use two stroke oil. I oz per gallon. Works great.
What brand? And you talking like motorcycle 2 stroke oil?
Letting your truck sit and idle at least 2-3 minutes before shutting it down for turbo cool down and also you can use 2cycle oil for fuel lubercant I use bout 4ish oz per tank 311k still doing good and last thing is greasing ball joints Trac bar (cummins only) tie rods universals ECT... most people I talk to don't and dirt gets into the joints and is like sand paper to your ball joints good vid keep them comming
1st mistake: “No full sends”
Don't be silly, I'm still gonna send it.
always full send
100% full send, 50% of the time.
What does that even mean ?
First thing I did on my 94 12v was I replaced the charge pipe elbows as they had rub spots on them from the fender well. Then an aftermarket intake elbow. Then I put a B.H.A.F & got rid of the factory air box. All of this was in an effort to keep egts down for towing. Next step is to get a pyrometer to monitor egts better, a boost gauge, & an oil temp gauge or fuel pressure gauge.
Wow! I just drive my dirty max. Keep it stock and she will stay loyal
I said the same thing. Finally did a delete, and it runs 20 degrees cooler. Crazy...
I just bought a 2016 Cummins 2500 slt I’m new to the diesel world but not new to big trucks. Had a 8.1L vortec.
Appreciate the intel. I just bought my first turbo diesel and this is definitely crucial info.
My 01 ram 3500 has the original main fuel pump. Engine never touched except for normal wear and tear. But no tuners couple of lift pumps replaced but that's it. Still starts like the day I bought brand new. 400, 000 miles now. Lol. Use power service in the summer and winter every time I put fuel in. Had not failed on starting not one time. Starts with a quickness. No turn over time what so ever.
Damn let it idle for 3 minutes....here in wisconsin we gotta wait about 15 minutes in the winter lol
Yea I’m buying a 2500 with most of this stuff already done. I know nothing about Cummins. This was the perfect video for me. I will be taking extra good care of my truck
Congrats on the new truck!
Having owned these trucks for 16 years I can add some stuff here,I factory ordered a 2002 6sp sport same color as yours and bought a 1998.5 12 valve used in 2003- additives or no additives the VP44 is gona go out , they are JUNK, most time the circuit board goes and has nothing to do with the fuel or whats in it or not in it .- When it goes find a P7100 and P Pump it . for approx. the same price if ya find a pump cheap enough , its a no brainer.-Always let you EGT temp come down to 300* before shuting down- never idle a cold engine for more than a minite or two unless its a high idle , as the unburnt fuel will washdown the cyl walls and even in bad cases leak down into your crankcase diluting your oil. The sooner ya get it movin and putting a load on engine and building heat in the cyl's the better .These engines do not build heat at a low idle in cold temps , infact they will cool themselves off if left idling from being at full temp._in a factory set up your lift pump does not cycle before starter is engaged , it is best to start as soon as light goes out and grid heaters go off , if not the time waited you are wasting the heat the grid heater just produced and there will be more unburnt fuel and rougher start.unless of course ya live in warm climate than the parameters are not met for heaters to come on and grid heaters don't even function in that case ya can just turn the key like a gas engine and no waiting for anything.not sure about the laws where yas are but if ya got caught with that much tire outside the fenders and front side windows tinted you would go to jail right on the spot .nice truck and you remind me a lot of myself when I was 25 and ordered that truck, I was right into it doin all the little mods , I still take care of it today mind you not as anal as I was back then, got 70K KM (43K miles)on her and only saw rain about 8 times in the last 16 years , looks like the day I got her .Think my lift pump is goin and I had a fuel gauge on it since day 1 , replaced 2 lift pumps in that time when I saw them starting to get weak ,. gettn the odd dead peddle now , P Pump here I come I guess , just goes to show I watched my pressures changed fuel filters more than regularly and still only gettn 40K miles out of the POS VP44. The engineer should be beat with a stickI thought we were suppose to evolve in life , going from a P7100 to a VP44 is going backwards , engineers suck !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
With having owned 6 5.9s a small 12 volt fuel pump at the tank will save the vp44s life 312k miles and still going strong
Login could you link some more information ?
Login could you expand and leave a link on what pump you used?
www.finditparts.com/products/7541246/autobest-12d?srcid=CHL01SCL010-Npla-Dmdt-Gusa-Svbr-Mmuu-K7541246-L406&gclid=CjwKCAjwp7baBRBIEiwAPtjwxLjlkXD9aElZmhDqcZgcR3sibN4Ly-eWScPQZ93FTeGaxmWEv_qXSxoCxrAQAvD_BwE This is the pump that I use it is mounted at the front corner of the bed
12D by AUTOBEST Not sure if the link will work because of youtube this is the model
I always use Hotshot Secret in my 2018 3500. I ordered my additives by the gallon and pre plan when I need more.
Thanks for the info.im a 72 year old an soon to be a1st time diesel owner.it hopefully will be a beautiful 98 dodge ram dually.
Rodney Howell Congrats o the first Diesel! You’ll love it!
Awesome! Best of luck to you !
@@ParoDoXz Great response
He deserves it
sounds like you ready to hit the road with that pull behind enjoy it!
46 year old and just bought my first diesel. 2019 ram dually. I hope you got yours too
Here it’s normal to go well below 0 for days with out windchill and I leave my diesel idle all the time, never had an issue with idling issues
Gotta love it when you wash your cylinder walls
I was looking at a clean ram 2500 but with all this information sounds a bit intimidating I kinda wanna buy a good running truck n drive is it a must I do all these things to keep a good 2500 running
Just got my first Cummins and watching vids to get trained up lol. 1999 Ram 2500 4x4. Traveling with fam now will check it out once we get back. Excited
Bro tuck the wire for those two mirror blinkers in the factory door wiring harness, your wires is gonna get pinched or frayed
👍 on the let any turbo warm up for that lubrication!! Learned that from my Dad 40 years ago who use to rebuild Porsche turbos. I had F350’s for 30 years. Never had a problem with any of them including 6.0 and 6.4’s! Took care of them and pulled 10 to 20,000 lbs everyday. Just bought my first Cummins, 2019 Ram 2500. Heard nightmare stories already so I’ll be watching you and a couple other Cummins guys for tips. In a couple months I’ll be towing 16,000 lbs everyday cross country so I wanna make sure she’s ready. Just did first oil change (6200 mi) and went with my fave Rotella T6 15W40. Keep up great vids and thanks for taking the time to teach us. 👍✌️
Just got the 2019 dodge 6.7 cummings. Can't get a freaking manual. I'm hearing stuff like installing a ccv delete kit with catchcan.
catching. Filters are easy to change.
I get my diesel from Kroger. I use a Fram oil filter and the stock dodge 10 micron fuel filter. The truck warms up faster when you get on it on a cold morning and it cools down quicker shutting it off instantly after towing.
😂😂😂 expert advice here.
Just bought a 07.5 3rd gen earlier this week with the 5.9L and quad cab. Only downside is the 48re. And needless to say...glad I watched this! Definitely gonna give it some cool down time every run. I do run good quality oil in it (shell Rotella). I do run that Lucas Injector cleaner once in awhile on all my vehicles diesel or not but I definitely noticed a difference on the first bottle since I owned it. 192k miles. Bone stock
Thw newer diesels have remote start that doesn’t wait to start and start your engine first then put on your seatbelt that gives the oil time to get circulated good As far as warming up before driving. It takes forever to warm up an idling diesel drive it but go easy the first few miles additives are a must! And if you think cummins are indestructible watch the Greg A channel his is broke more than fixed Well except the tow rig anyways You have to PAY to play
Powerstroke Strong 903 love greg a
Not sure what type of remote start you're referring to but my 11 cummins has a factory remote start that waits to start.
Greg A also had a 1500 hp Cummins that blew up.
Anonymoose Mustang Any huge power diesel is bound to blow up eventually, I believe it was a triple turbo set up... a engine block/head can only hold so much pressure. Diesels in general are already a high pressure engine
also holding clutch pedal down before during and after starting is hard on crank thrust bearing especially with hd clutches no oil causes dry wear
I'm glad I found you ParoDoXz! I'm about to purchase my first ever Diesel and I don't want to mess it up.
Then dont listen to this guy!
If you run a stock list pump or Fass DRS pump they only kick on for 5 seconds. Also don't put additives in the fuel unless you need it. ULSD fuel has plenty of lubricating qualities. Never seen ULSD cause damage to an engine and I've made my living working on HD Diesel engines for 14 years
I gotta say your truck looks good with towing mirrors
Bret Longmire it depends his truck looks good with tows out cause of the tire stance of his truck
I used 2 cycle outboard motor oil for years. worked great.
"Diesel Power Service" fuel additive in every tank = 1.1 million miles and counting
Samual Whittemore autozone?
What truck do you have?
I'm firm believer in power service also. 400,000 shooting for that million mile mark also.
Yep I'll bump my starter let that pump kick on.
Atta boy!!! I'm a ram owner... and I think it looks totally stupid with guys driving around with their tow mirrors out when not towing.
Not to mention I've seen guys smack their mirrors on other truck mirrors because of it.
How cool is replacing a $1000 mirror every time that happens!?!? HAHA
You don't need additives in newer trucks. Who ever told you this is misinformed or lying to you. There's people who have over 250k on stock engines/turbo/CP3/injectors and do not use any additives, just scheduled maintenance.
Maybe a link to peer-reviewed research that has definitively shown additives to be necessary would help us out.
Monster RAM some sort of lubricating additivs is even more crutial in newer commonrail trucks, 20 plus k psi you NEED lubricity in the fuel and insuring you have that by using additives cant hurt
connor wilson Pretty sure GM, Ford, and Cummins engineers took lubricity into account when they make their diesels. LB7 through the L5P are made to run on ULSD. Throwing additives in it is pointless.
Mark Schaefer ulsd was available during the lb7?
Cummins recommends using a additive, and Power Services Diesel Kleen cetane boost and a superslick lubricant can't hurt.
And a cetane booster is always a good thing as pump fuel is between 40-45. If you've made such a large investment in owning a diesel, a few more dollars to improve your fuel and protect your fuel system and getting more power with a few number boost in the cetane will also add power and mileage.
tim smothers www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/64-maintenance-fluids/177728-lubricity-additive-study-results.html#/topics/177728
Another critical thing people do with a diesel they don’t give them adequate warm-up time even in warm weather I start my old 91.5 up and I even in the summertime I give it a couple minutes to idle and where I live I go down a slight grade so I’m not putting any heavy load on the engine for at least 3/4 of a mile anyway I use Amsoil fuel treatment it’s done a real good job for me what I like about it I just get on the phone and it gets mailed right to my house so anyways keep up the good work what you’re doing there dude you’re all right it’s a six and a row Jim from Kennerdell PA
dextron II is a great injector lubricant !!
No no no! You couldn't be more wrong.
I've always hated starting a vehicle and just sitting in it for more than a minute. One thing I love about my 2020 Ram 2500 is the remote start. I open the app on my phone and send the engine start signal about 10 minutes before leaving work, and get the engine idling and warming up for plenty of time before I jump in. I am not planning on doing any performance mods - turbo, injectors, etc. But I'm still planning on doing a lift pump and head studs. I just want this thing to last.
I just went to colman saturday to pick up my first cummins its a 2005 4x4
When it come to Dodge/Ram tow mirrors,..only the duallys are allowed to keep the mirrors out all the time. The single rear wheels trucks are only allowed if towing an enclosed trailer that is 102” wide.
I leave my mirrors out but I usually pull a trailer or camper...and I hate adjusting my mirrors all the time...I do not flip them down because then i have to keep adjusting my mirrors
Gay as fuck !
Sparky101-- Same here. I wonder about some of these boys nowadays. It must be their soy intake. I'd bet they carry tampons in their trucks the way they act and talk.
I have a 2001dodge diesel 4x4 automatic, I have upgraded many things to make it a great retirement towing unit for us .
hey caleb i love the 2nd gen and the first gen
Up here in northern Maine it is common for the temperature at night to drop to 25f to 30f degrees below zero regularly from November through February, and let my truck idle 24/7 because of the temperatures in day stays below freezing. Never had a problem, but I use amsoil products religiously, and oil and complete filters changed every 5000 miles......
At those temps, the ecm idles the truck up automatically. At warmer outside temps, it won't.
hey man! im currently looking at a 2007 24v 5.9 cummins with a 6speed. it would be my first manual and my first diesel would you recommend it
Yes
great truck .
my advice pull the ugly jetson style tail lights
put on some from 03 to 06
Only thing I have done brand new 05 3500 4 door long bed dullay 4x4 is a lift pump from Fleece intank pump and onboard air for bags and to air up tires and trusse hitch becaus I haul a 10.6 Bigfoot truck camper and to pull my jet boat and to extend my hitch so my boat will hook up with plenty of room to turn .
I saw ur truck on Instagram and then was looking everywhere for it and now I found your UA-cam lol I love the truck man
Famous75 Gaming Thanks man!
Had a 01 3500 dually 5.9. Had a blast with the short time I had it. Previous owner molested it and didn’t shim the rear diff. So traded it in for a untouched stock 6.7 mega cab. Leaving it as is for a bit to collect all the parts to egr and dog delete. Love the truck though!
Dpf
Diesel actually has additives already. You dont really need to add additives every time you pump. Actually went through in entire class in my tech school about this. Some of those additives are gimicks theres better ways to clean up carbon build up.
I'd personally only use it every oil change to clean out any excess carbon build up in the cylinder chamber or valves. Also very good valid points on keep up with mainance mine needs alot of it lol
I think some additives are gimmicks, not all. And even then there’s still not enough lubrication in today’s diesel fuel. Biggest thing is when they went to ultra low soulful diesel fuel.
Sulfur *
FirstGenCummins agree 👍need to be careful tho what you put in your diesel new common rail fuel systems are delicate
FirstGenCummins its unnecessary tho as long as your filter is clean and your not in severe cold climate weather tht creates wax in diesel your fine unless you like spending extra money lol.
So how often do you recommend doing the fuel treatment? Once or twice a month? Assuming most fill up about 4-5 times a month
The can-am is back!! The reason I subbed to your channel.
Canam video coming out tomorrow! Just got done editing it!
I don't like the look of mine out but they suck for viewing area when they are down. I still run with them down. I buy the Lucus by the gallon and refill the little bottles. It works out to under $2 a bottle that way.
You said it all drives me crazy as well. Keep up the great work
Very glad to see someone that knows what they're talking about. Nice truck!!!
Wait to start light is just for the grid heater, nothing else. It’s the grid heater heating the air before it goes into the engine. Do some research
I bet your hell in the bedroom bet you just cram that thing in 😂
I used Lucas on my 01. I honestly think its easier to see with the mirrors down. Even with a trailer
On a dually tow mirrors go out. 2500 tow mirrors should be in unless towing
RoadRider 202 for everyone's sake what about a 3500 single wheel?😂
I personally hate the look of them folded out into the tow position, but the view in the folded-in mirror on the passenger side sucks in my opinion. I wish they'd design a mirror that could slide in and out in the current tow position.
Dusty Desserre yup... stupid aint he?
RoadRider 202 Couldn't have said it better myself!. I see it everyday here in Texas 2500's with mirrors flipped out especially on 3rd Gens lol.
Does it even matter how the mirrors did you pay for the truck na. Or are you gonna tell someone on the road to fold there mirrors in it looks retarded probably not more likely
I’ll admit when I do drive mine in the winter I do let it idle 15 minutes or so (98 12v) it isn’t very happy after a 12hr shift in the frozen hole that is Michigan. Usually walk out about 10min before I punch out and crank it up
The main thing I dislike that guys do to their dodge trucks is they buy wheels that puts the tire way outside the body! Come on!
Dillweeds!
Its called offset lol. And its badass, makes the truck look wider than it is
unnecessary waste of money
@@carlosvega2449 If thats your thinking why are you watching the video? It's about people customizing their cummins, none of this is necessary dip shit
The Goat what is your problem ? Insults are not necessary... very easy to play tough behind a screen you Dumbfuck
I've been using Hydrotex Essentia lube that I buy and it works quite well. I try to use some every third fill up. Cleans out the injectors pretty well. I also stay up on changing the filter and water separator early before the truck tells me around 25% or so.
Good video, definitely going to subscribe. As for the mirrors I’m sure you get it but in my opinion it’s to each their own. Personally I have had two powerstrokes and having the mirrors folded in on my 4th gen is not what I’m used to. I like the small mirror on the bottom for merging and backing up. Solid video 👍🏼
As for aditives......have lots of friends with cummins........and i had one 5yrs. Additives help but also dont be afraid to change your fuel filters! Todays fuel is garbage! Cummins fuel systems will treat you good if you treat them good.....i learned that from a lifer cummins owner......he changed his fuel filter once a month useing it heavy haul on a farm with no issues. Skipped a few weeks and he is messing up injectors and or pump.
Thought my dodge gasser was indestructible, one transmission later lesson learned
No truck is perfect, transmissions just happen to be a weak point for Dodges and half-ton Chevies. Replace it with a quality rebuilt trans with an external filter and a bigger cooler and you should be fine.
UnsulliedSpy thats why I laugh when people are glued to one brand of truck and trash the other brands when there own truck has the same or more problems
You need to turn key to on not start and wait till little red light on the right and that lets your ecu to get connected before you star the motor .
I'd love to see you make a bunch of the different videos on Cummins ownership and buying process, dos and don'ts, all the good stuff that not everyone talks about. Like the not starting and shutting diesels off is something I never really knew. (I'm looking to get a 3rd gen for my first diesel truck next summer, been saving up)
Letting the oil warm up in a diesel engine before putting it under a load is a necessity and can't be stressed enough. It gets damn cold here, I let mine warm up for 20 minutes or more. When it's 20 below or colder, I have let mine run an hour before leaving work (I work in a contaminated facility so it's a timing thing. Hour warm up or I sit around after work after completing a 13 hour shift). I have coworkers that start their diesels after the shift and in less than ten minutes, they're racing out of the parking lot.
I would like to add, avoid using Powerservice 911 or Howes. They make the fuel even drier. Your diesel mechanic can direct you to something better like Stanadyne or Alliant Power. Both of those you can't really over mix and they do prevent gelling.
Dude some great points and some unneeded. I just use some 2 stroke oil in the tank for extra lube. Spending $ on other trendy additives is only enriching the sellers. Turbo cool down is fine if you’ve been working it hard but not needed for normal driving or trips to Walmart to buy more costly additives. Seems when it come to diesel owners these days they got more $$ than sense and throw thousands at their new trendy toy so they can out perform the other shiny truck owner.
Some of us use our trucks for what they were designed for ....work and towing and not Pavement queens that think smoke is cool 😎 and out spending the other shiny truck owner on high dollar performance goodies. You do make a great point on the tow mirror fetish that some think is cool But make the non towing truck look ... well plain ugly. My 02 sport works for a living. My ZR6 is for Adrenalin rushes. ✌️
If your buying used always drain and change all fluids and filters. That way you have a maintenance starting point and always keep a log.
I’m kid and my grandpa has a 7.3 and a dump truck and a 6.7 every time is start then I always let them warm up like you do your truck
I use Schaeffer diesel treatment. Better than Lucas. I've done lots of things to my 2014 Ram that have increased horsepower and mileage. 1. Use Schaeffer diesel treatment, better for your engine than Lucas. 2. Installed K&N air filter. 3. (This is the big improvement) deleted the DEF system. (Before deleting it, my truck was in the shop being repaired every other month, since deletion, hasn't been in the shop at all)
I'm on 523,322 with my 97 12v. To many mods to list. I do rod on mine occasionally...lol but I'm not on the floor guy. I live and drive by my gauges. I use hotshots for additive coming from power service which I've used for years. And yes i see people cold start diesels and drive off.... I'm like where the hell is the heat at in the cylinders??? Oil sludged up... Shit is crazy. Plus i do a turbo cool down for coking on the bearings.
I do need help with my air fuel ratio though..... I've done everything i know... Egts still fucking high. Finally broke down got the attitude adjuster. I turn it down to the point where it wants to die egts still 1200+.... I'd be willing to personally talk to anyone willing to help. I've been on the forums and I'm literally just throwing money at products that don't help at all!
Just add transmission fluid to your fuel
How much fuel additive do you put in per fill up? And when do you put it in before or after filling it up
great vid! it'd be awesome to see top 3 mods under $100 for a 24V and a 12V
Thanks for the tips ! Fuel additive will be added every tank from now on. I plan to keep my 99 Dodge 2500 4x4 SLT quad cab forever -ish. Currently I have 175K miles on it. Already replaced the VP44 and lift pump. OUCH. The pain was lessened since I bought it in 2006 for $11k By the time I had the VP44 and lift pump repaired I was out a whopping $13,500. I'm asked if I want to sell it all the time. The mechanic installed an idiot light for the lift pump. I've had it 12 yrs. Its a second vehicle used to pull my horse trailer. Preventative maintenance and repairs is a WHOLE lot cheaper than monthly payments on a newer truck. And, it is less complicated to work on.
With the vp44 just keep an eye on fuel pressure that's the death to them things I highly recommend aftermarket lift pump such as airdog and fass like he has the factory ones don't produce enough psi of fuel to the vp44 you don't have to add fuel additives unless you notice like a sticky injector then it wouldn't hurt but do not put anything in that is for diesel and gasoline they put alcohol in them and that will kill your truck hotshot secret or just a couple drops of atf+4 don't put alot just a very little amount which will clean your injectors you put to much you'll blow it up. Also if you do get a aftermarket lift pump I highly recommend hotwiring it to a switch that's hooked to the battery cause when you flick the switch you get instant fuel pressure and you know it's running so you don't have to worry if the wiring to the pump is bad in the 99s wiring is terrible thing on them