TOP Problem Areas To Look At On 98-02 Dodge Cummins | Secret Tips For Buying Used Diesel Trucks
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- Опубліковано 8 лип 2024
- 💪 WATCH THIS before buying A Used 2nd Gen DODGE CUMMINS DIESEL!!! Wade goes over what he looks for when buying a used Dodge Cummins for the 1998-2002 truck years. Hope you guys enjoy and Likes are appreciated! Buying a used diesel truck is tough but with these tips, you will get a reliable used truck for a good price! BUYER BEWARE, mileage is not the only important factor you should consider when buying a used truck.
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Chapters
0:00 98-02 Dodge Cummins
1:10 Exterior
3:23 Interior
6:32 Drivetrain
8:55 Front End
10:49 Engine
#cummins #dodgecummins #thoroughbreddiesel #dieselpower #diesellife #dieselporn #truckporn - Авто та транспорт
If the truck hasn’t been driven hard how will the 53 block hold up? Will it always crack?
I have a 98.5 with 53 block and 540k on the clock still original block and engine. Tow alot and use to plow with truck. Kind of hit and miss with them. Hope this is helpful.
If u run them hot towing, they will crack
@@kwmiked I've ran mine until the ECM derated. Hot enough that a year later the headgasket started seeping coolant. Run a 200 degree thermostat. No cracks. The failure is never going to be a single issue that causes it... well other than a manufacturing defect. Thinner wall, and a slight casting shift and it will fail. Thinner wall with correct casting placement will probably not ever have an issue.
It's hit or miss and there isn't an exact science to why it might crack. Shain said it perfect "The failure is never going to be a single issue that causes it". The info about the 53 block is less about a scare tactic and more about just helping people identify to potential risks involved in the vehicle they are considering purchasing.
Not all 53 blocks are equal. Some have adequate block thickness in failure prone area. It's a gamble. I run compounds at 600hp and tow heavy with mine. It has 350k on it, no issue yet.
My man said it's a hole in his Dash big enough for cat to fall in 🤣😆😂
midnight stalk 🤣🤣🤣
Gotta love the cummins oil leaks also!!!
The 53 blocks were from Brazil. Made by a company named TUPY. Mexico blocks are the good ones. Mexico in other manufactures blocks are known to be very hardy and stout blocks.
Guess I better buy a lottery ticket, because my 99 dodge 2500 don't even have a crack in the dash
same
You should. My ‘01 2500 has a terrible dash
same but mine is a 98
Keep an eye on the instrument cluster which is under the dash thats whats so expensive
just bought a 2002 2500 with 62k miles absolute immaculate condition. so stoked !
Maintenance is your best freind period regardless of the vehicle. Having owned 2 2nd gen vp trucks without the "usual issues" notated in his video I attribute that all too preventive maintenance. Great trucks, last forever, great video thank you.
I accidentally dropped a trac bar on my head when I was replacing it and woke up an hour later in my driveway 😂 havnt had many issues with the couple I’ve had. Just normal wear stuff, batteries, I have a mean green starter that I love. Injectors are easy to install, and a fass 100gph is a must have
Ouch! Glad you're OK!
My 98.5 was a 53 block, no issues. Nightmare with the 47RE.
Current truck is a 2000. Air Dog Raptor, triple disc trans, BHAF, no rust, I keep Fluid Film on it. 4 inch exhaust. Just made the truck breathe better, mostly use it for hauling hay and towing vintage campers. My favorite design of the Dodge trucks is the 2nd gen, made everyone up their game!
They put a million mile engine in a hundred thousand mile truck
Unfortunately, just like any other manufacturer. 150k alot of stuff tends to wear out no matter the quality of vehicle.
Very few chevy's will last as long as a 2nd gen Ram with a 360 v8. Nor are they built as durable as a Ram, like it or not it is just plain fact, period!
1997 - 2500 4x4 Cummins 355,000 miles truck and engine holding up nicely........
I got 150 k severe service plowing salting and towing on my 2000, it was still tight and solid when I sold it not a rattle or squeak in it. Truck was 600 plus rwhp for 10 yrs,twinned for 9 of those .Rust starting on door bottoms but Jeez 14 yrs of that..new owner is still running it I think there a 250k truck with a 600k(12v) engine or 500k(24v) .
@@xxsuperbirdxx 2nd gen dodges are literal junk besides there engines and axles the rest just falls apart around them
I watched this after buying one
I as well
Me too
Me too
Me to hahaha
Ouch
One of the first things I did when I bought one of these was to change the fuel filter/water separator which requires you to bleed the fuel system between the filter and the injection pump. I couldn't do this because the crappy stock lift pump was moving almost no fuel. I think I caught it in time but that's the number one killer of the VP44 injection pump. Leave it to dodge to pick arguably the best diesel engine to put in their pickups and then fuel the thing with a cheap, inadequate Bosch lift pump.
Now I have an aftermarket lift pump that supplies fuel at about 16-18psi depending on throttle which I monitor with a fuel gauge and, knock on wood, no problems, the truck runs strong.
The only minor annoyance is it once in a blue moon throws a code for the apps/tps which requires a minor adjustment.
the problems with these early cummins trucks seem minor when compared to the modern diesel trucks with all the emission restrictive equipment
What this guy said ^
Morons
@@GFY..-.. who? People who like not having to be a computer scientist to work on vehicles are morons? Or add weight, expense and complexity to vehicle that burn cleaner than a gas engine. Those people are morons huh?
Heck the new diesel trucks are quiet as v8s....I rather have the old Cummins trucks ....I wanna hear that Mack truck sound with turbo sound....hell these new hds you might as well buy their big gas v8s
Agreed 02 5speed 215k
Northeast rust killing it but runs like a savage
Yep I have a 53 block. It runs grate never had any problems with the 53. Its definitely a hit and miss. Good luck to the other 53 block owners.
1998.5 Cummins 24V thx, I’m at 340,000 k miles and still going
1998.5....Its GREAT
2001 2500 NV5600 250k yep most all the above I consider minor that I’ve performed, The major problems I’ve avoided is a $900.00+ payment! Service! Service! Service!
Never get tired of watching your videos..GREAT JOB
Awesome! Thank you!
These guys are the best got two vp 44 thru them. Great customer service. They will talk to you over phone if having problems
My 2001 now has 534000 kilometers. Front end rebuilt, brakes of course and 1 clutch. Still runs pretty much as new. Paint still looks fine.
Yes totally agree Wade restore it to factory new. I too have factory red sport 2nd gen just like it just with an automatic
Excellent video!! Thanks you guys.
Thanks for watching!
After owning and working on a 98.5 i can say the weak points are the 47re and the front end. However at 300,000 mi the original engine cracked a liner. With that the later engines don't have a crank sensor so keep that in mind when doing swaps.b
My 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2 v8 auto 4wd has nearly perfect paint, no clear coat coming off. The dash has no cracks in it. Has functional hvac, functional gauges, steering is nice and tight, just a little bit sloppy as anything else with hydraulic power steering. Overall, truck has been great. 167,000 miles and it still starts up and runs like the day it was brand new. Transmission did have to be overhauled but was rebuilt with bigger and beefier components. Still shifts like a dream.
Great thanks for the update
Great job thanks for your time in showing us the common problems with theses trucks 👍🏼👍🏼
No problem. Stay tuned for the next platform in this series.
The rust at the bottom of the front fenders and the center area at the bottom of the doors is a direct result of salt and rock chips. I love my custom mud flaps and running boards.
I'm in California no rust at all on my second gen....you might see dents on them but no rust...
Wade is terrific. I spoke to him and he advised me what to look for and the products I would know.
Thanks!
Thanks for the info! Very valuable to a noob like me!!
Had my ‘01 HO 6-speed 2500 CTDfor 5 years & 85k. You nailed it. Injection & lift pumps, almost everything under the front end (except ball joints so far), power steering box, hoses & pump, vacuum pump seal, dash, heater & AC cores, blend door, exhaust rusted off, fuel gauge sender, fuel pickup, rear door, map light switches, tappet cover leak, starter solenoid contacts, probably lots I’ve forgotten. Several oil leaks that need attention. No seat rips, APPS problems yet. CCD canbus errors out of the overhead console once in a while. But I love this truck and wouldn’t hesitate to jump in it and tow a trailer cross country today.
Sounds like you are very familiar with that truck.
Love the video. Thank you.
You're welcome. Glad you loved it.
If you keep stock sizes tires you will not have any problems with your front end and I know got to go big or go home. But if you go with big tires it changes your gear ratio and this puts a strain on your drive train and you will have all the problems you read about on hear so just remember big tires and big money to keep it going .
Great video!
Very informative, thank you!!!
You're welcome. Happy to help.
Great vid!. I'd love to see Wade's version of a dash replacement. LMC has a pretty good one but it's still lacking some details. I'd like to see a heater core and evaporator coil change while doing it.
Unless we start selling dashes we probably wont venture down that road.
Thanks to Thoroughbred Diesel and Firepunk my 99 24 valve was a beast!
Woo hoo!
Sounds to me like maybe you're down on dodges
Where was your post when I bought my truck 350000 miles ago
So helpful, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I’ve got a ‘00 2500 Cummins. No tranny problems. Just a speed sensor. Replaced alternator, water pump, radiator, starter, and had to have the computer rebuilt. All that didn’t happen at the same time thankfully. I bought it with 25k in 2000. It just turned 274k. It’s my daily driver. Dash is completely gone and the bezel. A whole herd of cats could get lost in there. I learned about the vacuum pump leak from y’all and got the seal kit from y’all. Still have to put it on. Thanks for the vids. Huge help. Learn something new every time.
Glad we've been able to help you out. If you ever need anything just give us yell.
Vacuum pump re-seal isn't to bad a job. Just don't forget to put that drive coupler in before pressing everything back together. I knew better and still managed to make that mistake.
that last comment you made before ending the video is so key....drive till it breaks or perfectionist. I am the perfectionist. my 12 valve i purchased a few months ago was my first diesel truck....and first truck. I learned two things, cummins is great, and dodge sucks. and also, if you dont maintain the truck and keep up with the service my bill starts adding up quickly....but luckily for you that is money in your pocket since i have purchased some items from yall
Just bought a 24v Cummins watched this video on before buying it super helpful video now got my dream truck with out getting a 200$ inspection yes I didn’t get a full mechanic to look at it but video helped a lot
Glad we could help! Enjoy your new truck!
My 99 CTD QCab was purchased new and in the family since. Now has 62,xxx on it. Has always lived inside, paint, dash and upholstery all look nearly perfect, like new - I frequently receive compliments on it. 53 block, no issues so far. Troubles have been with the 47RE shift solenoid (failed twice, would hang up in 2nd gear), god awful OEM lift pump - solved with Fuel Boss mechanical lift pump - 16 psi at idle or WOT, and crappy track bar design. Rather than replace the track bar with the original, converted to a 3rd gen track bar with urethane bushings, and added a pitman arm brace - made a tremendous improvement. Regular fluid replacements have kept all the systems working well and there are no leaks. Last run on the interstate towing a small trailer got 20mpg. A 3 gauge A pillar pod with Isspro gauges that match the OEM ones in the dash was added, with Pyro, Lift pressure (a MUST) and Trans temp. Overall, no complaints - hope to keep driving this truck until they won't sell me diesel any longer.
Have been following Transmission Tuner to see if he gets the electronics for the 68rfe swap dialed in - would love to convert to 6sp auto. ATS also working on an Allison swap for it as well. The Ally has the same big jump from 4th to 5th as the 47RE does from 3rd to OD, so conflicted on pursuing the latter, but wow an Ally in one of this trucks would be the boss!
Trash that automatic and swap to manual.
Ive for a 53 block on my 198.5 at almost 200k miles with no cracks in the block.. also keep in mind a lot of these cracks come when you live in colder environments and not letting the engine heat up properly before operating. For example us here in Arizona hardly every have seen this issue with 53 blocks it just dont get cold enough.
I would probably have to constantly keep a block heater on if I had a 53 because in Georgia the wearther is like If someone spun the wheel of weather except in summer then it’s always hot
4 years ago, my car broke down in eastern Oregon so I bought a 98.5 to tow it home. God must have smiled on me that day because the second guy I called on Craigslist showed up with this loud, red (i hate red) quad cab 4x4. I really didn't know much about these trucks but I had wanted one, I now needed it and went for it. The truck had just under 200k miles. It turned out that the two previous owners had kept a service log on it from new. Everything done to it was listed. It has a BD triple disk TC, BD trans, BD jake brake and exhaust. BD turbo hoses and a fuel pressure warning light mounted in the dash. It now has 275k miles. I have rebuilt the trans, replacing various parts like the planetary, sun gears and torque converter. I also fixed the alternator wiring harness to eliminate the T/C lock-unlock problem. There is an underhood sticker where a dealer had remapped the computer trying to cure the t/c issue. Also recently upgraded the track bar to the 2003 type with a bushing and jonny joint. I had replaced the OE with another OE which lasted maybe a year. Replaced a rear pinion seal, a couple of u joints, tires, brakes, oil. Just ordered a replacement drivers seat base and cover. The biggest headache has been electrical. Dodge really speced the wire gauge at the minimum. You have to stay on top of the various grounds, keep em clean and the truck will thank you. The truck still has the original uncracked dash. It has been under a cover since day 1. The door panels and interior plastic bits are squeeking. Love the zero emissions engine. best mileage was 23, averages 17mpg all day long, saw 14 carrying the FWC and towing the CJ. The paint is still good but just starting to lose the clear coat on the tailgate. Zero rust. What a great truck.
Thanks for sharing!
You sir is great at talking and probably story telling as well. Great video.
Thank you kindly!
TY for your time and concise video on the pros and cons. Lookin at old 02 now as a spare when i need to haul things. really want it but dont want to cry after as what i found looks right up my alley. CHEAP! lol... does not look like they dogged it and seems well kept. oh well. will check it out and more precisely with your tips. ty ty
I just bought my first 2nd gen a week ago. After watching this im happy with my purchase and what i paid for it. Great info and channel. Thanks!
Thanks!
I just bought my firdt one to a couple weeks back and I got such a deal so happy with it
I’m very blessed I have an 02 4x4 2500 sport with a 5.9 I live on the gulf coast between Houston and Galveston my truck has 0 rust holes only surface rust on the top edge of the bed the paint is terrible but on the inside I have one tear in the driver’s seat but it’s leather interior the dash is perfect not one crack all the doors work and so does everything else my mechanic said he can’t believe how good of shape it’s in and it’s all original and has right at 300,000 miles I take great care of it and don’t plan on ever getting rid of it
I have a 2000 SLT I factory ordered that was delivered in 1999, long bed, quad cab, 5 speed, 4wd that I used for business hauling a 10,000 lb trailer here in the road salt capital of New England for 20 years. On the good side, no rips in the leather seats, no dashboard cracks or holes, about 180,000 mile at present. Did have rust on door bottoms and rear fender wheels I fixed, that happened even with hot water power washing after highway trips in the winter. First VP44 failure was covered under warranty, warranty replacement was a Mexican rebuild that failed before long, 3rd one seems to have addressed the problems I understand had to do in part with changes in solder composition. Also installed a FASS lift pump along the way I've had to replace the check ball on. Have replaced ball joints twice, track bar twice as well, also had the 5th gear nut problem. Worse problem was a clutch failure due to a misaligned bell housing that happened at the factory that I found when I pulled the transmission out to fix the clutch. One of the bell housing dowel pins was misaligned that the manual warns you of. Since I've had it since new, I knew it was a factory issue. So that caused the mainshaft to eat the pilot bearing that meant the clutch wasn't running true that in turn fractured the center of the clutch plate that resulted in the clutch not releasing properly. Amazing it took close to 170,000 mile to show up and great fun as it was on a trip with our camper to Nova Scotia. Drove 900 miles home without a clutch that would fully release. Fuel gauge sender in tank had to be replaced once in the past and more recently the solenoids for the heater grid have stuck a few times that set off all the bells and whistles on the dash. Still have to deal with that. Other than that I love the truck, you can see it if you google "Dodge Ram Gothic Cabover" for a pic from an event we were at this past fall of 2019. Oh yeah, had a Van Aaken chip box that failed, great fun to diagnose, now have an Edge EZ and Banks exhaust, otherwise pretty stock. Also have the 53 block and no problems and should add when I went after the clutch I decided a transmission rebuild was in order as the rear spline connection to the driveshaft had some slop to it, so did that and all the u-joints and rear axle seal. Hopefully good for some road time with the camper now I'm retired.
818k miles on my 99 dually, beat down logging roads most it's life. Not a single crack in my dash. No issues on the cluster everything works. No rust but I do have a crack in the dually fender. Never rebuilt anything yet, but has a fass fuel 150 and some other basic upgrades and a new south bend dual disc in the nv4500.
Can’t wait for the 3rd gen video !
Thats probably the next one.
Just bought my first Cummins earlier this month. It’s a ‘98 24 valve with 98k original miles. Very informative video. Subscribed
How's it running so far?
I'm looking at at 98 24 valve as well, its manual with 160k miles. Great condition asking $15k, I'm worried it won't be as reliable as they say though.
Good job. I had about 10 of these you covered it great. I keep a spare tracking bar in stock at all times . .. driving and tracking problems , not like a nice driving Chevy. Master tech 55 years experience with Chrysler. Great job guys, Reed
Thanks!
everything you said I have replaced/repaired/reinforced including TPS, steering box (red head) , unit bearings (I went to locking hubs) rebuilt the vacuum pump, starter, alternator. The vacuum pump will add to blowby if it leaks. I had to laugh when I saw your video because it reminded me of all the hours I spent under the hood of my 02, but 20 on the highway and lots of power and I wouldn't trade it.
I had a 2002 Ram 2500, standard cab auto trans. I owned it for 7 years from 2005-2012. It had the problem that the trans would randomly start shifting gears; I could be on the highway and it would suddenly shift to 2nd and just float gear to gear. I fought that problem for 7 years and finally sold the truck. I think if it had been a 6 speed manual truck with extended cab, I would still own it; other than the trans issue I loved it. I Would get 18 mpg in mixed driving. Didn't have a cracked dash. I put a Fass on it to avoid the weak stock lift pump.
At least you test them to the fullest to point out there weaknesses, Thanks for the advice. I own a 02 Cummins with a terrible automatic, oh I so wish I had a manual!
You're welcome. Happy to help.
Put a Allison 6 speed auto in it then
Do a swap. My 4th gen cummins has the g56 and its badass.
Love this truck 4x4 hell ya get er done
...address the Starter Bolts coming loose...Love your stuff...very helpful snd informative...keep up the good work...
I have a 2001 Dodge Ram with the 24 valve 5.9L Cummins with a trailer towing package. I love the truck and have had pretty good luck with it so far considering only 100,850 original miles. But I have to agree with you about the plastics. The dash, the overhead compartment where garage door opener goes, plastic around the seat adjustments, anything and everything plastic. Dodge did a really crappy job with the plastic stuff. Thank goodness for the aftermarket places that sell replacements and covers.
want to sell it?
Really love these type of trucks
Glad I got a 97
Great video ! Few things, headlights are garbage as seen in on your truck. As for oil leaks oil pan is also one to look for. Also try the 4x4 to see if it works and to see if u joints are toast. After test driving the truck, check for blow by !
Can you do a video like this one but with the 1994-1998 (12 valve) dodge trucks?
If taken care of and isn’t beat on, these are sturdy and reliable trucks. Coming up on 20 years old, things break and crack off, they will need replacing, thankfully there’s plenty of space to work on
I have a 2000 24 valve 2500. The only thing I would add is the crankshaft position sensor seems to be a problem as well. Ive done mine 3 times in about 4 years.
The last thing I might add is to look to see if the compressor housing on the turbo is nice and silver like on your truck, or if it's slightly yellow. The compressor housing is cast aluminum and when it sees lots of high heat, it will start to turn yellow. I'm not sure if this is some coating on the aluminum, or some other reason. Regardless, a yellowed compressor housing is a strong indicator the previous owner ran the truck hard and put it through some high exhaust temps.
Got to love them "car like characteristics" lol
I had an 01 model for 12 years. Lift pump went out and killed the injection pump. Easy fix. Replaced ball joints once, heater core and AC evaporator, and the dash when I fixed the heater core and evaporator. Dash and instrument cluster bezel was around $600 from LMC Truck. Not a hard project but somewhat aggravating.
A little tip if you have a noise coming from your belt and I found the best thing to use and it’s good for your belt is Armor All exterior and it will amaze you how good it works and you have to spray both sides of belt and may have to do this 2 times but it’s the best . Hope this helps some one.
I had to chuckle at the cowl weatherstripping laying across the valve cover--that's definitely something I've seen a lot! Easy fix though, just clean up the metal where it slips on, squirt some silicone caulk into the channel in the weather strip, and slip it back on. It should stay in place after that.
Good to know that i have an almost perfect condition 02 3500 6-speed! None of those issues i have...on 1 minor crack on the dash about 1" long.
Love my 99 with 499-436 miles 2nd owner all stock only thing I hate but I live with it is the wait to start light issue delays for 5-10 sec after key is in light comes on runs lift pump cranks up good other then that the usual slop in the steering I love it childhood memory of my god father owning a 01 back in the day
From Canada. My 99 has rust of course same driver seat tear. But chipped and piped and doing good. Actually USA truck originally 283 Miles. when bought it didn't have fifth gear. Put in upgrade main shaft
I bought a quad cab with the Cummins in '02 and it's still my daily driver with around 170k on it. Love the truck. With age stuff goes, it's a fact of life.
I've done both rear leaf spring shackles, clock spring, driver rear caliper has locked up twice now, the hydro-boost power steering pump has gone twice in the life of the truck, driver rear axle seal, driver front bearing, front brake lines had to be replaced, front to rear brake line was replaced after it got a leak.
I haven't had one 'big' repair yet but again stuff breaks with time and wear.
I've fixed all that stuff myself except for the hydro-boost pump and front to rear brake line but it takes patience and the truck off the road 2-3 days. All those repairs were the first time for me and it takes time.
I think you missed the throttle position sensor in your video, a very do-able repair for a patient DIY person.
Someone asks if I want to sell my truck every 3-6 months and I just smile at them.
Change your power steering fluid every 30k...I know a handful of people with 200k+ on their original pump.
I just bought a 2002 2500 4x4 back in August. Even though it has every steering upgrade available it still skates all over. Of course having to track down the issues myself after not knowing what all has gone on with the truck, replacing seals here and there, p/s pump, lines, reseal kit for the vacuum pump, ive been leaking p/s fluid from way up at the master cylinder. Just something to look for if you're like me and chasing down p/s leaks. Also I'm getting a psc big bore to replace the redhead thats in it. Im positive now thats the issue. If 1k will fix it wandering all over, thats worth it.
155K on the ‘99 that was my father’s. Was pulling a 19’ trailer about a year ago and the #4 hi press fuel line cracked and spewed fuel en-route. Replaced all with a new set of lines.
That would be a real treat to drive on all the rutted asphalt roads in my area.
I purchased a 99 2500 4 door, 4x4, auto trans new in 99. I sold it at 251k miles in 2008 but wish I had kept the 99 after purchasing a 3500 dually, loved the dually just regretted not keeping the 99 also. Probably 75k of the 251k miles I put on the 99 was towing miles. Either a GN horse trailer, GN 24' flatbed with 8k lb tractor, work trailer or bass boat. My truck body and interior had none of the problems in this video. My problems were lift pump which took the injection pump with it, ate brake pads until I put on Mopar pads and front wheel bearings around 175k miles. Never had any motor or trans issues and it was running perfect when I sold it.
Very good information. I've got a 2003 2500 4X2 Standard Transmission. My issues have been differential rebuild and blowby in the engine. The cooling issue I caused because I put Gylcol instead of HOAT after replacing a water pump. Will there be anything else I should look out for ?
I bought a '99 2500 turbo diesel 13 years ago and shortly after buying it I discovered a large water leak on the passenger side of the engine. the side of the engine was covered with black epoxy to cover up the huge crack in the #53 block. after a lot of research I gave up on repairing it and bought an engine from a wrecking yard for $3400 installed and it has run perfectly every since, until February of 2020 and I had to buy a rebuilt vp-44 so now it is back on the road again
It is a quad cab long bed with a camper shell and is a great cruiser on the freeway.
got one . got in 2003, so far had to replace injection pump v-44, second 5 speed tran. new vas's lift pump 3 years ago. had to replace drag linkage one front end. new fuel gauge. new front hub. mine is 4 wheel drive. new raidiator , water pump. and when tran out replace rear main seal. got truck had 98000 on it.
If you do Light to Moderate Performance upgrades on this Gen. Truck and you develop a Popping & Cracking under hard throttle especially on the 98.5's then check the fuel lines on top of the fuel module at the top of the fuel tank, Mine were the metal connector lines and they were Rusted with small pin holes allowing Air to be Sucked into the fuel System thus causing the Popping & Cracking under hard acceleration
There is an OEM replacement made of some form of plastic that can be used in place of the OE metal unit.
Also if the truck has drum brakes on the rear check to make sure the rear axle seals are not leaking by looking at the inside lip of the drum looking for an oil wetness, An oil leak here will cause that break to grab and slide the tire.
I had a 98.5 with a perfect dash, no cracks, the driver seat was just starting to tear a little when I sold it. the only reason i sold it was I inherited an 02 Laramie quad cab long box from my dad. I miss that truck. I just love these 94-02 Cummins dodges though. in my personal opinion, you cant get better. I know others may disagree, they are all entitled to their opinion no matter how wrong they are.
Look for cracks on the frame where steering box bolts to and check steering box bolts also
I put a Fleece intank lift pump and I put a gauge on dash and it is a twin gear motor pump at idle it’s 21psi and hard pulling it goes from 18-20 psi and I put it on as soon as it came out and I don’t like all the stuff hanging from side of truck and a great thing with the Fleece pump is it uses the factory wiring for on pump and the send a harness for the second pump with relay and fuse so if one pump goes out the other pump is still working and the pumps are in your tank and you get cooling from the fuel .
i have a 96 2500 not one crack in dash seats look new center conso is good shape no oil leaks no motor problems it has 309.805 still going i do have the steering
Bought a 2500 manual 5 speed with rebuilt trans runs great drives great should I look into messing with the lift pump or leave it be what to look for when failing
Just picked up a one owner 102k original mile dodge. Dash is cracked, clearcoat is fucked. Gotta love it 😆
I love my 1999 3500 she’s a baddy. My suspension has been my only issue
I have a 1999 dodge ram, 2500 Cummins diesel. I wanted to get it to where it should be so I had a skyjacker 4 inch lift put in with skyjacker shocks. New front end, track bar ball joints, extended swaybar links. Took the transmission out and put a 1 ton in took the Adelphi lift pump out and put a FASS lift pump water separator filter titanium signature set up. Had the rear differential completely redone cleaned new fluid put a heavy duty alternator in to Duralast batteries cleaned up all the grounds new battery, cables . Rebuilt the manifold exhaust passenger side. New tires new starter new flywheel wheel alignment. Clean out the power steering system replace with new fluids, new heavy duty, universal drivetrain. New VP 44 Bosch, latest generation. Truck has 181,000 miles used every day as a work truck I get twice as good gas mileage than when I bought it used in 2009. My recommendation is to anyone buying a second GEN is to remove the stock lift pump and replace it with a newer technology either a FASS or air dog, I prefer the FASS. Since that’s what I have in the truck the beauty of it is, you can get to it easily and I use.HOWES year round . No issues runs like a top. If you keep your battery terminals, clean your grounds clean keep a log on and mileage of maintenance and repairs part installs your truck should last forever. I use my truck and I go into the landfill all the time strictly for work good luck guys.
The stock VP 44 had issues. Because of the heat that the diesel produces and then it cools down after its driven caused the solder to crack. So I replaced that with the newer VP 44 that remedied the problems of the previous generation, the solder they use in the new VP 44 has aluminum that dissipate heat
Thanks for the great info!
If I can't see the 55 stamp in the location mentioned on the video. Does that automatically mean I have a 53 block?
Two wheel drive trucks tend to wear out the ball joints, and typical of all Dodge trucks.... the steering gear boxes are a weak point and get loose. As he demonstrated by moving the steering wheel back and forth. His is actually pretty good. I've seen some that had a quarter of a turn of steering wheel slop in them.
Thank you.
You're welcome!
I’ve got a ‘00 vp24v 1 ton. Paint is perfect, no rust, no dash cracks, 103k miles nv4500
Wade is such a beast! Love the videos. As usual. Meow 👍
Meow indeed.
He's the voice of Mr Mackey from South Park, lol. MMMMM Kay.
Great truck as long as you install FASS LIFT PUMP And get rid of the stock tranny And upgrade the injection pump by eliminating the stock you will have the best truck ever built CUMMINS!
I got a 99 with 90k on it. Take great care of it. Seems like more guys are converting vp to p pump on their 24v. Although expensive, seems to be the way to go. Thoughts Wade?
I bought my 01 Cummins about a year ago and guy told me it never been off road was just drove on the weekends. But on further investigation I found a receipt about the trans being rebuilt and said water in unit and I found more signs that it had been sunk in some water but so far had no problems with it
"Big enough for a cat to fall in!" HAHAHA, yep! 🐈😹 That was pretty funny! 😁
😁
Great in formation
PAINT ISSUES, it’s not only the dodges. The EPA, continues to change the paint regulations. Transition is bad.
That being said, it’s not the paint as much as barometric pressure, not sunlight. That is why the top surfaces go first. The oxidation is cause by the constant pressure of air / oxygen on the top surfaces.
Brother what is the correct operation temperature on an 2001 5.9 dodge turbo diesel. Thanks for your videos.
There's also another block that needs mentioning. The engine block is a less common Mexican cast engine block made by Teksid (these blocks are highly desirable due to their more robust casting design). How to tell if you have this block? There are no numbers.