That’s interesting that you follow the tooth length. I hand sharpen 3 or 4 times, then I go to the grinder specifically to true up the chain again. I find the a Short tooth set to that one, then grind everything to match. Its time consuming on the long teeth you have to go slow, but it’s nice in the end.
I've been grinding chains longer than I e been filing (in Missouri it's not if but when you hit a rock) and I've found mounting the grinder to a 2x4 is a great way to set up so can mount into a bench vise and then you don't have to commit to the bench space permanently.
I hand file some times on my bigger saw and grind more often on the little stuff. I find that whether you’re running a grinder, or hand filing with a normal round file, you are trying to achieve the same look of the tooth. It is possible to achieve a very similar looking tooth with a grinder. On my Oregon 510-A, the 70° on the back angle does not get under the tooth well enough and one ends up with the “ski jump”. Once I learned what a proper hand file was supposed to look like, I replicated the look of the tooth by playing with the angles. Also the key to running a grinder is keeping the chains out of the dirt. When you’re just cutting wood and not rocks etc, it is extremely fast to throw the chain on the grinder and touch it up. It is also extremely fast to hit the rakers with the grinder as well. If you run chains in the dirt and the teeth are all different lengths, it makes the grinder a hassle. All in all, a guy can get a really nice cutting chain out of a grinder if he knows how to run it. Much like files too, it helps greatly to run the grinder wheels in a bigger size. Run the 3/8 wheel for the .325 stuff snd the .404 wheel on the 3/8 stuff. Great vid Edit: another perk of the grinder is it keeps all the angles bang on. It also kind of motivates me to clean and maintenance the bar and clutch area instead of keeping the saw barred up.
Hi, my understanding, 3.2 mm wheel for 1/4", 0.325", 3/8" LP. 4.7 mm for 3/8" regular & 0.404". 6.0 mm for 7/16", 1/2" & harvester chain, also often used for adjusting the depth gauges. Am I correct in thinking that most modern chain, the height of the cutters is lower than 70's & 80's ?
Rewatched this video, as I went back to the grinder for round 2. I used to wake up in the morning with coffee, after cutting the previous day, and hand file whatever needed touching up. It was my zen happy place (like 25 years worth ... heh heh). Now, I'm getting a little older and my eyes strain a little, and my fingers and wrists are getting a little stiffer, carpel tunnel, and arthritis, and I have to take breaks hand filing. So, I got the grinder back out Saturday morning, and figured out how to get a nice fast grind. I did a bunch of chains, and did some test cuts, and they work good, and spit out nice big chips. And, my hands don't hurt running the grinder. So, I guess I'm switching sides, back to the grinder. I agree with others, dress the wheel often, at least once when flipping sides, clean the tooth a little if it is oily, and work slow. And, sometimes a 2nd time around, taking very little material and really watching the grind makes some great cutting teeth.
I learned by trial and error that you can take off a lot of material real fast! Turning the teeth blue is also quick and painless. I usually sharpen three chains in the evening and then take them with me to the woods. When one gets dull I just swap them out. Hand filing might get sharper teeth but its not that critical for me. I'm just out to enjoy being in the woods.
I run 35/55 on semi chisel chains, rakers typically about 030. 30/55 on full chisel. What people dont tell you is to get a solid edge with a grinder you have to put just as much effort into the grind. Contrary to what many say I get good life out of my chains. I'm also meticulous and patient. If you are doing it right it should not really be faster than a hand file job. I'm also really starting to like the resinoid wheels. Pay attention to how you are putting pressure on the handle. If you are more "down" you'll move the wheels away from the tooth a few thou. If you are in plane its closer. Use that to your advantage. I also worked my oregon over to take out slop in the stop. Dress your wheels OFTEN and keep the shape round. Once you get some practice you can play with the radius a little. The cutting geometry of the tooth is the important part. Every thing you do should revolve around achieving that.
Greeting , I have the same / newer version of this Oregon chain grinder and I disagree with your manner you use it. A grinder like that is intended to rectify a chain who are un balanced with some or many tooth who are used in different degree with time . A chain with more shorter tooth in left side than right side will have tendencies to curve cut. Adjusting de grind amount depending on metal left on some tooth isn’t supposed tu be use like that . A chain grinder is intended to rectify all tooth to be the same , angle , depth and height from all left to all right . After that , all rackers, / depth guide . Like that you have, after all , a perfect chain just used at % capacity.
that was a great look into hand and machine filing. my grandfather taught me years ago, that if you are good with the files by eye and feel, it is faster than the machine. The biggest reason is chain removal/reinstall. we would blow out our saws at the end of the day at the shop and hand file in the woods. I still do it.
I was gifted one similar to your grinder. Spring that holds head up is broken. Need to get a new one & get it installed. Her brother used to grab my freshly filled saw and returned it every time looking like his goal was to destroy the chain. He usually succeeded. Bought a $30.00 HF that returns them back to service quickly with minimal work. There’s enough slop in the pivot that if you need a little more, push it a little laterally. If the tooth is a wee bit long, pull a wee bit. With the price of good files being what it is, and a klutzy bro-in law, perfoict! Now I hide the good ones and leave the gruntless small saws in plain sight! Plus he moved to Florida for the winter! Win Win!!
I decided I wanted a timberline sharpener last year because it makes every tooth the same length. As you pull it through there are two holes for the rotary file so there is no turning anything. Every two tanks of gas and a few minutes with that to dress a chain and it cuts as good and in my opinion better than factory. Of course after the first sharpening I might take a file and give each raker a pass or two but it takes less than 5 min to sharpen a chain. I personally love it because I know what to expect every time and I know it will cut great every time. Might not be the fastest cutting chain but the repeatability is there
I use one of these all the time, got mine through Logosol. I bring several chains with me on cutting jobs as well as several saws. I sharpened saws on stumps and on the back of a pickup much more than I have ground chains. It is tough to get right and it does take longer but for milling I need the accurate angles which I couldn't get right by hand. I started using it for cross cutting just to try it I am getting the hang of it but there are times when the chain just isn't right and it comes off right away. I prefer to take a swipe of each tooth and after I make one rotation I take a bit more off to keep everything coming down at the same rate. I really like it for doing the rakers, just set the depth and away you go.
I always use my cheap (29 dollar) harbor freight grinder sharpen several chains at a time, over years have never hand filed, just 6 dollars to replace the grind disc.
I hand file all my saws. It takes practice but once you get it you can just feel when that tooth is sharp. Grinding could be beneficial for sure if you really wack a tooth or two, to bring it back in line. To each their own, is my moto. As long as it's sharp. Chains are cheap versus replacing your saw due to a dull chain. Nice to see it in practical application, never saw someone grind a chain before. Thanks for that Tinman, always appreciate your content. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
Me too. As an intermediate gunsmith I’ve got a lot of filing experience on very small and sensitive places, I,e, 1911 pistols. My concern with powered grinders is the possibility that too much metal will be removed
I have one of those knock-off grinders too. I had issues with one side of the chain being sharper than the other. I was cutting C's! And then I found Buckin' and you Mr. Tin Man! You two have shown me the correct and fun way to file a chain! Kudos to you my friend and Happy cutting!!!
I concur with everything you said ... and could see from the grind it wasn't going to be cutting too hot. I haven't messed with the grinder much, but my limited results are similar to yours. Hand files are way faster. But I have friends who swear by the grinder - so I'm not giving up yet, especially on a super screwed up chain that would take a long time to bring back by hand filing. I wonder if one of those cbn wheels, or a good wheel dressing would help? I also guarantee that a simington or similar square grinder will make you a faster smoother chain than hand files. But, they are expensive and sometimes hard to come by. So far, hand filing round wins for me.
Cutting in crocs..gotta love it. I got out the other day and to cut a load and had my slip ons on. Once they were finally full of saw dust it wasn’t bad.
I have a 510 Oregon. When grinding, I notice that the left tooth is closer to the grinding wheel than the right tooth. It's never been a problem with cutting performance that I can tell. But , should the vise be moved closer to the grinding wheel a few thousandths when switching to the right side ? Common sense tells me that I'm getting an irregular grind between lefts and rights without compensating for the distance from the wheel.
I bought one of the Oregon grinders and I love it. Really took my time setting it up and I can get a nice sharp chain with it. How ever I still find myself hand filing more than grinding, but I do like to run the chains through the grinder to true up the top plate every once in a while.
Since your on chains today, what are the pros an cons of the different gauges of chain? I run 3/8 .063 an most of the time I find .053 I think?? When I out an about!
i am a hand file guy personally but i will admit those chain grinders man do they make short work and give a sweet grind. Those teeth cut like a hot knife through butter man impressed.
So... Is this the only way to fix up a damaged chain for example by hitting nails or too much gullet Or is there any other way with a square or round file Thanks 🙏 I'm new with this chainsaws stuff
I have a fleet of 7 saws, each one with a purpose. Have hand filed for 30 years. Five years ago I discovered the Timberline Sharpening system. Have introduced to so many other cutters that each one will never sharpen with a file or grinder again. This system uses a tungsten carbide cutter, just like you would see in a high tech machine shop. Every tooth is sharpened identically the same. Bonus, you get twice the life out your chain.
I got me the Oregon 410 and I can't seem to get the chain holder to sit in that grinding position...is mine possibly broken and how easily is the chain holder suppose to move??? thanks
While I have the harbor freight grinder, i need to find a stone dresser!, I also had the TSC grinder, it was more trouble then it was worth, tripping out on overload after running for 1 minute, waiting 25 minutes, then dress the next tooth! The HF has been good so far!
An old file, chunk of steel, or you can buy a cheapie dresser at HF for a couple of bucks. You are just reshaping and getting to fresh particles. Also you can glaze the wheels, then they cut slow and hot. Just takes a few seconds and minimum wheel loss.
Most of those grinders have some slack in the pivots, so it is possible to edge the stone over a millimetre or so sideways, to get the right amount of grind on the tooth. I have also tried to set it up for Square Ground chain, but the machine will not angle far enough.
I have an Oregon knock off and vastly prefer it to a file. If I don't hit a nail or a rock I can get an easy 10 to 15 sharpening. I only sharpen when the cutting slows and the % of my chips get smaller. I see a definite correlation between finer chips & increased cutting effort on my part. In western Oregon, I get a lot of practice.
I have a few grinders but still like to hand file. the stilh or husky file combination units that sharpen and take the rakers down in one step are awesome, that's all I use now and they are only 50$
I put a speaker stand mount on my grinder so I can put on a speaker stand and put it at eye level so I don't ever have to bend over. I have been experimenting with the grinder but I still prefer the hand file for the most part
I hardly ever hand file anymore. I run a grinder. wish I had a square grinder, but I have one like the Oregon. I have some extra chain if I hit something bad so I don't care about field filing. So this way I have all my teeth ground the same and don't waste time adjusting for different tooth size. At this point in life I worry more about saving myself some time. If I have to replace a chain sooner than if I was hand filing, so be it, but, I have saved myself the time of hand filing. Also, if I am in a hurry or I'm tired, I don't end up with a bad file job. Grinding is accurate every tooth as long as you setup right. And if you only run the same size chain on all your saws, you only have one setup, it never changes. I have 2, but, no big deal to change.
A trick I was shown many years ago was to place the chain into a freezer bag and put it into the freezer for 10-15 minutes, then start your grinding. Alternatively you can lightly spray the chain with water to avoid overheating the chain to maintain it's temper. I prefer to handfile.
Tim, love your videos and have learned a lot, but let me give you some tips, coming from a guy that’s been running a grinder for 20 years and learned from a guy that used one for 35. First off, let’s talk about your angles. I don’t know where you got 70 degrees at, but I’ve never seen that. 55 is the golden standard for all standard saw chains. For 3/8 and .325 the top plate angle is 25 degrees for full chisel chain and 35 degrees for semi chisel. For 3/8LP the top plate is 30 degrees no matter what type of chain. Forget looking up the angles for every chain type and go with those numbers and you will get good sharp chains. Tip number 2. You are using a 1/8” wheel. Only use that on 3/8lp or if you are hitting the rakers when coming down. For 3/8 and .325 you will almost always use a 3/16 grinding wheel. Tip 3. You don’t need to adjust the grinder to each tooth. Find the shortest one, or the most damaged and adjust the grinder to it, and grind all the teeth on that side. ALSO. always grind the teeth on the right side of the chain (base turned to the left) first so you don’t make the left side shorter. Much easier to adjust the grinder to the left side then the right side. You can grind much faster then you are. Correct, you don’t want to get the teeth hot, but if you keep the grinder wheel dressed you won’t. Keep the wheel dressed, apply pressure in 3 short burst, let off and then 3 short burst, continue till you bottom out. And lastly. You are using your base tilt backwards. Always tilt the tooth into the cutter. I hope this helps. Properly set up that grinder should sharpen chain way essays, especially if you are doing the rakers with it as well.
I only grind a Chain if its going to take more than ten swipes per tooth. that double raker chain i would throw in the dumpster. . its heavy and does not cut good. .If you happen to harden a cutter by getting it to hot you can aneal it with a propane torch , , hold it on the side of the cutter for 5-6 seconds and you should be able to file it again , , thank you jon
I suggest getting a dremel or the stihl handheld grinder. You do the same as hand filing with just grinding stones. I love it. I prefer the dremel cause it’s a plug in where the stihl is car battery deal. I still use the stihl stones tho in the dremel
Damn. I need to go out, & see if my Harbor Fright grinder has the tilt angle. I did my C83 a few days ago, & it kinda sucked after I ground it. New chain. I went out, & dropped 2 ash. As I was clearing, I hit a friggen 50 year old steel T-post bent down in the weeds. God I was pissed. Seriously man, can't have anything nice around here.
@@woodchuker570 I have one of the harbor freight grinders. It is too flexible (mainly because it is mostly plastic). Save the money until you can afford a better one that doesn't flex.
First you have to get good, then you get fast. I can grind a 20inch chain both sides and adjust the rakers in ten minutes, however I have been grinding for ten years now.
with handfile, i have the problem that after filin a couple teeth, the file get dull quick. and will not cut anymore. it is a stihl file.... is my chain to hard....they are some old stihl 404 1.6 chain from the 70's....
I have one of those sharpeners industrial grade I don't like using it, I would rather use my rotary sharpener , since arthritis won't let me use a file anymore !
Well after that video I think I’ll not buy one of those. I can hand file a new chain till it’s totally gone and still like the way it cuts! It may be useful on a newer chain if you slammed it into rocks. But all I do is cut logs on skids delivered to me so I don’t hit rocks or other things too bad.🤫
I tend to try and keep all the teeth the same length so it avoids any hassles .. I take a set of 3 or 4 chains with me .. And just change them out as they dull.. Then touch them all up on the grinder when i get home . All ready for next time .. I can't be bothered with hand file any longer ..
You can't ruin the temper on the chain. Chains aren't hardened. If they were hardened, you wouldnt be able to use a normal file to sharpen them. I like grinding because eventually you can get every tooth the same.
After watching your video you need much more practice. I have been using one for over 15 years and never adjust for every tooth. They have all been through the same stuff and all need the same care
I have been debating with myself about buying a chain grinder. Do I need one? No. But we all know how that goes. I know they make diamond coated wheels for these chain grinders and I know that if I do buy a grinder I will be purchasing the diamond coated wheels as well. Then you don't have to be bothered by your grinding wheel getting rounded over on the edge that comes into contact with the chain teeth near as fast as you do with the wheels that come with the grinders.
The Lumberjack Jackyl Composition: Jesse James Dupree Ha haaa I was born in the backwoods Of a two-bit nowhere town Fathered up some rock 'n' roll (baby) So your mothers could boogie down I ain't whistling Dixie No I'm a rebel with a groove All around the world the go 'round and 'round When they dig on my new stainless steel sound oh, yeah I'm said i'm a lumberjack oh baby And I'm gonna cut you down to size I'm a lumberjack now baby And you're the one you're the one that gets my prize When you hear my motor running You know I suerly I surely be coppin' a rise Oh! So I'm gonna crank it up down the alley and jack it Woo I'm a lumberjack now baby I'm a lumberjack now baby I'm a lumberjack now baby Ohh I'm a lumberjack now baby But I ain't jacked my lumber baby Since my chainsaw you Ha haaa Whether you like it or whether you don't woo That's the way we like it
Now before you do this don't forget too...., Then!!! Call your mom......the square root of infinity,......is,........😂 Click your heels together and then.....Grab your files and learn how to sharpen.
I have to disagree, I think you can take less off with the grinder than you can do with a file to get it sharp🤷♂️. Also Tin the finish of your tooths looked a little rough... did you dress the wheel?🤔
@@mattfleming86 I resharpen every tank of gas 1-2 strokes with a file. I never cut with a dull chain. 9 full cords in 1 day is a lot of wood to cut but I have done it and if the big chips are not flying your not cutting wood. There is expense to cutting wood and a new chain every day or two can be expected when cutting mass quantities of wood. If I used a grinder I only get 6-8 sharpenings.
@@jasonbusch3624 I dropped somewhere between 40 and 45 poplar today, from about 11 to 18 inches at hinge level. My grinds hold up great, and i certainly get more than 6-8 sharpenings per tooth even on 3/8lp or 325. Technique is everything. To get a sharp tooth with a file or a grinder, the exact same amount of material needs to be removed. It's all in the operator. There are people out there who will hog a whole chain out with a file in a couple goes and there are folks like me who have great luck with a grinder. That said, I have a decent amount of experience grinding. I managed an ACE Hardware and sharpened a "few" in that tenure. Whatever your sharpening tool of choice, learn it and you will get great edges and good chain life.
Это вечные споры о заточке цепей напильником или станком. Каждому своё, кому что нравится, главное не оскорблять других людей. Я заметил, что у вас камень стачивает угол соединительного звена. Камень стоит не по центру. У меня также. Купил станок Rezer. Выставил углы и глубину на новой цепи. Затачиваю и тоже срезает угол звена. Я сделал полностью новое основание с пазом, чтобы сдвигать цепь, как у Stihl и некоторых моделей Oregon. Также сделал регулируемую стойку, как у Oregon. Теперь нагибаться не надо и можно точить где угодно, мне нравится на балконе.
Your answer is yes as long as you stay away from the 310/120 grinder . tip get a good grinder ! That means look first at the 510/ 120 grinder and loose the pink stone get cbn wheel if you got various chains you will need the 1\8 and the 3/16 wheel keep the large pink stone to do raises with .
That’s interesting that you follow the tooth length.
I hand sharpen 3 or 4 times, then I go to the grinder specifically to true up the chain again. I find the a Short tooth set to that one, then grind everything to match. Its time consuming on the long teeth you have to go slow, but it’s nice in the end.
I've been grinding chains longer than I e been filing (in Missouri it's not if but when you hit a rock) and I've found mounting the grinder to a 2x4 is a great way to set up so can mount into a bench vise and then you don't have to commit to the bench space permanently.
Mine is on the wall no bench necessary.
Thanks for showing us how this is done.
I’m completely mobile so you just saved me a lot of bs I wish I thought of that THANKS
I hand file some times on my bigger saw and grind more often on the little stuff. I find that whether you’re running a grinder, or hand filing with a normal round file, you are trying to achieve the same look of the tooth. It is possible to achieve a very similar looking tooth with a grinder. On my Oregon 510-A, the 70° on the back angle does not get under the tooth well enough and one ends up with the “ski jump”. Once I learned what a proper hand file was supposed to look like, I replicated the look of the tooth by playing with the angles. Also the key to running a grinder is keeping the chains out of the dirt. When you’re just cutting wood and not rocks etc, it is extremely fast to throw the chain on the grinder and touch it up. It is also extremely fast to hit the rakers with the grinder as well. If you run chains in the dirt and the teeth are all different lengths, it makes the grinder a hassle. All in all, a guy can get a really nice cutting chain out of a grinder if he knows how to run it. Much like files too, it helps greatly to run the grinder wheels in a bigger size. Run the 3/8 wheel for the .325 stuff snd the .404 wheel on the 3/8 stuff. Great vid
Edit: another perk of the grinder is it keeps all the angles bang on. It also kind of motivates me to clean and maintenance the bar and clutch area instead of keeping the saw barred up.
Hi, my understanding, 3.2 mm wheel for 1/4", 0.325", 3/8" LP.
4.7 mm for 3/8" regular & 0.404".
6.0 mm for 7/16", 1/2" & harvester chain, also often used for adjusting the depth gauges.
Am I correct in thinking that most modern chain, the height of the cutters is lower than 70's & 80's ?
Don't forget grinder wheel loses it's profile over time.
Get some cheapo diamond files and dress the wheel until it matches.
Rewatched this video, as I went back to the grinder for round 2. I used to wake up in the morning with coffee, after cutting the previous day, and hand file whatever needed touching up. It was my zen happy place (like 25 years worth ... heh heh). Now, I'm getting a little older and my eyes strain a little, and my fingers and wrists are getting a little stiffer, carpel tunnel, and arthritis, and I have to take breaks hand filing. So, I got the grinder back out Saturday morning, and figured out how to get a nice fast grind. I did a bunch of chains, and did some test cuts, and they work good, and spit out nice big chips. And, my hands don't hurt running the grinder. So, I guess I'm switching sides, back to the grinder. I agree with others, dress the wheel often, at least once when flipping sides, clean the tooth a little if it is oily, and work slow. And, sometimes a 2nd time around, taking very little material and really watching the grind makes some great cutting teeth.
I usually find the shortest tooth on that side and geind them all the same length. That way you don’t have to keep resetting.
Makes sense
I learned by trial and error that you can take off a lot of material real fast! Turning the teeth blue is also quick and painless. I usually sharpen three chains in the evening and then take them with me to the woods. When one gets dull I just swap them out. Hand filing might get sharper teeth but its not that critical for me. I'm just out to enjoy being in the woods.
I run 35/55 on semi chisel chains, rakers typically about 030.
30/55 on full chisel.
What people dont tell you is to get a solid edge with a grinder you have to put just as much effort into the grind. Contrary to what many say I get good life out of my chains. I'm also meticulous and patient. If you are doing it right it should not really be faster than a hand file job.
I'm also really starting to like the resinoid wheels.
Pay attention to how you are putting pressure on the handle. If you are more "down" you'll move the wheels away from the tooth a few thou. If you are in plane its closer. Use that to your advantage. I also worked my oregon over to take out slop in the stop.
Dress your wheels OFTEN and keep the shape round. Once you get some practice you can play with the radius a little.
The cutting geometry of the tooth is the important part. Every thing you do should revolve around achieving that.
Well said, I am 100% in agreement.
Greeting , I have the same / newer version of this Oregon chain grinder and I disagree
with your manner you use it.
A grinder like that is intended to rectify a chain who are un balanced with some or many tooth who are used in different degree with time .
A chain with more shorter tooth in left side than right side will have tendencies to curve cut.
Adjusting de grind amount depending on metal left on some tooth isn’t supposed tu be use like that .
A chain grinder is intended to rectify all tooth to be the same , angle , depth and height from all left to all right . After that , all rackers, / depth guide .
Like that you have, after all , a perfect chain just used at % capacity.
Well done Tinman. Great vid
that was a great look into hand and machine filing. my grandfather taught me years ago, that if you are good with the files by eye and feel, it is faster than the machine. The biggest reason is chain removal/reinstall. we would blow out our saws at the end of the day at the shop and hand file in the woods. I still do it.
I was gifted one similar to your grinder. Spring that holds head up is broken. Need to get a new one & get it installed. Her brother used to grab my freshly filled saw and returned it every time looking like his goal was to destroy the chain. He usually succeeded. Bought a $30.00 HF that returns them back to service quickly with minimal work. There’s enough slop in the pivot that if you need a little more, push it a little laterally. If the tooth is a wee bit long, pull a wee bit. With the price of good files being what it is, and a klutzy bro-in law, perfoict! Now I hide the good ones and leave the gruntless small saws in plain sight! Plus he moved to Florida for the winter! Win Win!!
I decided I wanted a timberline sharpener last year because it makes every tooth the same length. As you pull it through there are two holes for the rotary file so there is no turning anything. Every two tanks of gas and a few minutes with that to dress a chain and it cuts as good and in my opinion better than factory. Of course after the first sharpening I might take a file and give each raker a pass or two but it takes less than 5 min to sharpen a chain. I personally love it because I know what to expect every time and I know it will cut great every time. Might not be the fastest cutting chain but the repeatability is there
I use one of these all the time, got mine through Logosol. I bring several chains with me on cutting jobs as well as several saws. I sharpened saws on stumps and on the back of a pickup much more than I have ground chains. It is tough to get right and it does take longer but for milling I need the accurate angles which I couldn't get right by hand. I started using it for cross cutting just to try it I am getting the hang of it but there are times when the chain just isn't right and it comes off right away. I prefer to take a swipe of each tooth and after I make one rotation I take a bit more off to keep everything coming down at the same rate. I really like it for doing the rakers, just set the depth and away you go.
Nice instructions with the grinder and great video shots ♥️👍
I always use my cheap (29 dollar) harbor freight grinder sharpen several chains at a time, over years have never hand filed, just 6 dollars to replace the grind disc.
I hand file all my saws. It takes practice but once you get it you can just feel when that tooth is sharp. Grinding could be beneficial for sure if you really wack a tooth or two, to bring it back in line. To each their own, is my moto. As long as it's sharp. Chains are cheap versus replacing your saw due to a dull chain. Nice to see it in practical application, never saw someone grind a chain before. Thanks for that Tinman, always appreciate your content. TC Mahalo Tinman 🤙🤙🤙
Me too. As an intermediate gunsmith I’ve got a lot of filing experience on very small and sensitive places, I,e, 1911 pistols. My concern with powered grinders is the possibility that too much metal will be removed
I have one of those knock-off grinders too. I had issues with one side of the chain being sharper than the other. I was cutting C's! And then I found Buckin' and you Mr. Tin Man! You two have shown me the correct and fun way to file a chain! Kudos to you my friend and Happy cutting!!!
I concur with everything you said ... and could see from the grind it wasn't going to be cutting too hot. I haven't messed with the grinder much, but my limited results are similar to yours. Hand files are way faster. But I have friends who swear by the grinder - so I'm not giving up yet, especially on a super screwed up chain that would take a long time to bring back by hand filing. I wonder if one of those cbn wheels, or a good wheel dressing would help? I also guarantee that a simington or similar square grinder will make you a faster smoother chain than hand files. But, they are expensive and sometimes hard to come by. So far, hand filing round wins for me.
Dressing the stone is essential. Wouldn't expect big results from a small grinder, they simply don't have the same geometry
Cutting in crocs..gotta love it. I got out the other day and to cut a load and had my slip ons on. Once they were finally full of saw dust it wasn’t bad.
I have a 510 Oregon.
When grinding, I notice that the left tooth is closer to the grinding wheel than the right tooth. It's never been a problem with cutting performance that I can tell. But , should the vise be moved closer to the grinding wheel a few thousandths when switching to the right side ?
Common sense tells me that I'm getting an irregular grind between lefts and rights without compensating for the distance from the wheel.
I bought one of the Oregon grinders and I love it. Really took my time setting it up and I can get a nice sharp chain with it. How ever I still find myself hand filing more than grinding, but I do like to run the chains through the grinder to true up the top plate every once in a while.
I use a on Oregon grinder because it gives me a consistent sharp chain every time. Don't forget about those rakers!
Good info. I have a 410 and love it. Thanks again
I TRIED THOSE GRINDERS ,ID RATHER HAND FILE MY CHAINS ,,GREAT JOB TINMAN
Since your on chains today, what are the pros an cons of the different gauges of chain? I run 3/8 .063 an most of the time I find .053 I think?? When I out an about!
i am a hand file guy personally but i will admit those chain grinders man do they make short work and give a sweet grind.
Those teeth cut like a hot knife through butter man impressed.
I just have a cheap princess auto one, what do I do to "Clean up the stone"?
So... Is this the only way to fix up a damaged chain for example by hitting nails or too much gullet
Or is there any other way with a square or round file
Thanks 🙏
I'm new with this chainsaws stuff
Cool video Tinman, hope all is good at your house . Cheers man keep ON KEEPING ON.
I have a fleet of 7 saws, each one with a purpose. Have hand filed for 30 years. Five years ago I discovered the Timberline Sharpening system. Have introduced to so many other cutters that each one will never sharpen with a file or grinder again. This system uses a tungsten carbide cutter, just like you would see in a high tech machine shop. Every tooth is sharpened identically the same. Bonus, you get twice the life out your chain.
I got me the Oregon 410 and I can't seem to get the chain holder to sit in that grinding position...is mine possibly broken and how easily is the chain holder suppose to move??? thanks
While I have the harbor freight grinder, i need to find a stone dresser!, I also had the TSC grinder, it was more trouble then it was worth, tripping out on overload after running for 1 minute, waiting 25 minutes, then dress the next tooth! The HF has been good so far!
An old file, chunk of steel, or you can buy a cheapie dresser at HF for a couple of bucks. You are just reshaping and getting to fresh particles. Also you can glaze the wheels, then they cut slow and hot. Just takes a few seconds and minimum wheel loss.
I’ve got an oregon grinder and I like it
Great video, love the close up of the wheel
Morning oldtimer
Most of those grinders have some slack in the pivots, so it is possible to edge the stone over a millimetre or so sideways, to get the right amount of grind on the tooth. I have also tried to set it up for Square Ground chain, but the machine will not angle far enough.
I have an Oregon knock off and vastly prefer it to a file. If I don't hit a nail or a rock I can get an easy 10 to 15 sharpening. I only sharpen when the cutting slows and the % of my chips get smaller. I see a definite correlation between finer chips & increased cutting effort on my part. In western Oregon, I get a lot of practice.
Question buddy regarding the 44?? What carb and model does it have?? Have a buddy the has one missing carb and air filter and elbow
I have a few grinders but still like to hand file. the stilh or husky file combination units that sharpen and take the rakers down in one step are awesome, that's all I use now and they are only 50$
I put a speaker stand mount on my grinder so I can put on a speaker stand and put it at eye level so I don't ever have to bend over. I have been experimenting with the grinder but I still prefer the hand file for the most part
I hardly ever hand file anymore. I run a grinder. wish I had a square grinder, but I have one like the Oregon. I have some extra chain if I hit something bad so I don't care about field filing. So this way I have all my teeth ground the same and don't waste time adjusting for different tooth size. At this point in life I worry more about saving myself some time. If I have to replace a chain sooner than if I was hand filing, so be it, but, I have saved myself the time of hand filing. Also, if I am in a hurry or I'm tired, I don't end up with a bad file job. Grinding is accurate every tooth as long as you setup right. And if you only run the same size chain on all your saws, you only have one setup, it never changes. I have 2, but, no big deal to change.
Hey Tinman,,,just 2 quick questions. Does a grinder address the gullet and how do you dress the stone? Thanks for another great vid!
Yes when set up right it will grind the gullet. You can get stone dressing tool to dress the stone.
I feel like if urkel was still on Tv today he would wear his hat the same way you do tin man!!
A trick I was shown many years ago was to place the chain into a freezer bag and put it into the freezer for 10-15 minutes, then start your grinding. Alternatively you can lightly spray the chain with water to avoid overheating the chain to maintain it's temper. I prefer to handfile.
I don't know who told you that but that's hilarious. There is a better way .
Very informative! Thanks for sharing👍🏻 think I'll stick to hand filing for now.
Tim, love your videos and have learned a lot, but let me give you some tips, coming from a guy that’s been running a grinder for 20 years and learned from a guy that used one for 35.
First off, let’s talk about your angles. I don’t know where you got 70 degrees at, but I’ve never seen that. 55 is the golden standard for all standard saw chains. For 3/8 and .325 the top plate angle is 25 degrees for full chisel chain and 35 degrees for semi chisel. For 3/8LP the top plate is 30 degrees no matter what type of chain. Forget looking up the angles for every chain type and go with those numbers and you will get good sharp chains.
Tip number 2. You are using a 1/8” wheel. Only use that on 3/8lp or if you are hitting the rakers when coming down. For 3/8 and .325 you will almost always use a 3/16 grinding wheel.
Tip 3. You don’t need to adjust the grinder to each tooth. Find the shortest one, or the most damaged and adjust the grinder to it, and grind all the teeth on that side. ALSO. always grind the teeth on the right side of the chain (base turned to the left) first so you don’t make the left side shorter. Much easier to adjust the grinder to the left side then the right side.
You can grind much faster then you are. Correct, you don’t want to get the teeth hot, but if you keep the grinder wheel dressed you won’t. Keep the wheel dressed, apply pressure in 3 short burst, let off and then 3 short burst, continue till you bottom out.
And lastly. You are using your base tilt backwards. Always tilt the tooth into the cutter.
I hope this helps. Properly set up that grinder should sharpen chain way essays, especially if you are doing the rakers with it as well.
I only grind a Chain if its going to take more than ten swipes per tooth. that double raker chain i would throw in the dumpster. . its heavy and does not cut good. .If you happen to harden a cutter by getting it to hot you can aneal it with a propane torch , , hold it on the side of the cutter for 5-6 seconds and you should be able to file it again , , thank you jon
I suggest getting a dremel or the stihl handheld grinder. You do the same as hand filing with just grinding stones. I love it. I prefer the dremel cause it’s a plug in where the stihl is car battery deal. I still use the stihl stones tho in the dremel
A dremel .lo!
Damn. I need to go out, & see if my Harbor Fright grinder has the tilt angle. I did my C83 a few days ago, & it kinda sucked after I ground it. New chain. I went out, & dropped 2 ash. As I was clearing, I hit a friggen 50 year old steel T-post bent down in the weeds. God I was pissed. Seriously man, can't have anything nice around here.
No it doesn't. guess that's part of the reason its only 35 bucks. how do you like that thing ?
@@woodchuker570 i have the same grinder, but i am looking for a stone dresser for it! Keeping it dressed is key!
@@woodchuker570 I have one of the harbor freight grinders. It is too flexible (mainly because it is mostly plastic). Save the money until you can afford a better one that doesn't flex.
First you have to get good, then you get fast. I can grind a 20inch chain both sides and adjust the rakers in ten minutes, however I have been grinding for ten years now.
He's been watching too many bukin billy Ray vids. Right friends lol
Good video very helpful
Nice to see the 44 out cutting!!!
with handfile, i have the problem that after filin a couple teeth, the file get dull quick. and will not cut anymore. it is a stihl file....
is my chain to hard....they are some old stihl 404 1.6 chain from the 70's....
Another awesome video Tinman. I hand file and I am not looking to grind any time in the near future.
I'm handfiler to!!
I have one of those sharpeners industrial grade I don't like using it, I would rather use my rotary sharpener , since arthritis won't let me use a file anymore !
Thanks for the vidoe. Peace✌and ❤ from deadwood 🪵 Oregon 🌲
I mounted mine on the wall at face height so I can see what I’m doing. It’s a super cheap Amazon one and works just like that.
I like to have the wheel OFF and then bring the tooth to the wheel and then tighten. Works good that way
Well after that video I think I’ll not buy one of those. I can hand file a new chain till it’s totally gone and still like the way it cuts! It may be useful on a newer chain if you slammed it into rocks. But all I do is cut logs on skids delivered to me so I don’t hit rocks or other things too bad.🤫
I tend to try and keep all the teeth the same length so it avoids any hassles .. I take a set of 3 or 4 chains with me .. And just change them out as they dull.. Then touch them all up on the grinder when i get home . All ready for next time .. I can't be bothered with hand file any longer ..
You can't ruin the temper on the chain. Chains aren't hardened. If they were hardened, you wouldnt be able to use a normal file to sharpen them. I like grinding because eventually you can get every tooth the same.
Bear down on acoup!e of teeth and see what it does. You jyst haven't ad one long enough to know what your doing
Cut to the chase......badda bump tiiiiiiissshhhh!!!!
India me price kay h?
here we see the canadian in it's natural habitat; bucking up firewood with a chainsaw while wearing crocs.
Thanks friend 😊
After watching your video you need much more practice. I have been using one for over 15 years and never adjust for every tooth. They have all been through the same stuff and all need the same care
grinder its good if the chain have hitting nail.
I have been debating with myself about buying a chain grinder. Do I need one? No. But we all know how that goes. I know they make diamond coated wheels for these chain grinders and I know that if I do buy a grinder I will be purchasing the diamond coated wheels as well. Then you don't have to be bothered by your grinding wheel getting rounded over on the edge that comes into contact with the chain teeth near as fast as you do with the wheels that come with the grinders.
Diamond wheels are for carbide teeth I think your talking about a cbn wheel . after a year my guess is all your equipment only draws dust now .
@@rc391995 I hand file. Why would I let my equipment get any near just drawing dust.
Nice thanks
The Lumberjack
Jackyl
Composition: Jesse James Dupree
Ha haaa
I was born in the backwoods
Of a two-bit nowhere town
Fathered up some rock 'n' roll (baby)
So your mothers could boogie down
I ain't whistling Dixie
No I'm a rebel with a groove
All around the world the go 'round and 'round
When they dig on my new stainless steel sound oh, yeah
I'm said i'm a lumberjack oh baby
And I'm gonna cut you down to size
I'm a lumberjack now baby
And you're the one you're the one that gets my prize
When you hear my motor running
You know I suerly I surely be coppin' a rise
Oh! So I'm gonna crank it up down the alley and jack it
Woo
I'm a lumberjack now baby
I'm a lumberjack now baby
I'm a lumberjack now baby
Ohh I'm a lumberjack now baby
But I ain't jacked my lumber baby
Since my chainsaw you
Ha haaa
Whether you like it or whether you don't woo
That's the way we like it
That 44 would be good to do a muffler mod to
I don’t see the bur on the top plate forming.
Thanks a lot.
I definitely want to get a grinder never owned 1 or used 1.
ya lo he probado todo y al final he acabado afilando cadenas con una lima y a mano
Thanks mate
Thanks!
holy smokes!!! thankyou for your support!!
Been wanting a grinder
That little 44 is just a terrible saw. I'll do ya a solid and get rid of it for ya 🤪
Love your stuff, but for the love of holiness, Tinman, put a C-clamp on that board. Or a screw. I'm gettin' motion sick trying to watch.🤢
👍🏼
No eye protection 😢
You can also use kook grind g-440 to stop heating and glazing
Tinman! Crocks? i thought they were illegal north of the border.
Now before you do this don't forget too...., Then!!! Call your mom......the square root of infinity,......is,........😂 Click your heels together and then.....Grab your files and learn how to sharpen.
Easier to file...
Hey Tinman try to send you a email and didn’t work
Grinding is a great way to waste your chain. A couple of sharpenings and they are junk.
I have to disagree, I think you can take less off with the grinder than you can do with a file to get it sharp🤷♂️. Also Tin the finish of your tooths looked a little rough... did you dress the wheel?🤔
@@Dolmar-Rick I can sharpen a chain with a file 10-12 times, sometimes even more.
I remove the same amount with a grinder as I would a file. Just enough to get it sharp.. If you are taking off more than needed thats operator error.
@@mattfleming86 I resharpen every tank of gas 1-2 strokes with a file. I never cut with a dull chain. 9 full cords in 1 day is a lot of wood to cut but I have done it and if the big chips are not flying your not cutting wood. There is expense to cutting wood and a new chain every day or two can be expected when cutting mass quantities of wood. If I used a grinder I only get 6-8 sharpenings.
@@jasonbusch3624 I dropped somewhere between 40 and 45 poplar today, from about 11 to 18 inches at hinge level. My grinds hold up great, and i certainly get more than 6-8 sharpenings per tooth even on 3/8lp or 325.
Technique is everything. To get a sharp tooth with a file or a grinder, the exact same amount of material needs to be removed. It's all in the operator. There are people out there who will hog a whole chain out with a file in a couple goes and there are folks like me who have great luck with a grinder. That said, I have a decent amount of experience grinding. I managed an ACE Hardware and sharpened a "few" in that tenure. Whatever your sharpening tool of choice, learn it and you will get great edges and good chain life.
Это вечные споры о заточке цепей напильником или станком. Каждому своё, кому что нравится, главное не оскорблять других людей. Я заметил, что у вас камень стачивает угол соединительного звена. Камень стоит не по центру. У меня также. Купил станок Rezer. Выставил углы и глубину на новой цепи. Затачиваю и тоже срезает угол звена. Я сделал полностью новое основание с пазом, чтобы сдвигать цепь, как у Stihl и некоторых моделей Oregon. Также сделал регулируемую стойку, как у Oregon. Теперь нагибаться не надо и можно точить где угодно, мне нравится на балконе.
Play Tin Man can you do chisel bit chain with a 5212 20 Oregon grinder can you accomplish that or does it have to be around only😊😊
Your answer is yes as long as you stay away from the 310/120 grinder . tip get a good grinder ! That means look first at the 510/ 120 grinder and loose the pink stone get cbn wheel if you got various chains you will need the 1\8 and the 3/16 wheel keep the large pink stone to do raises with .
Rakers